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Class JoLYl 2.43 

Book_jBL&..7.-- 

Copyright N° _ 

COFVRtGHT DEPOSIT 



S/ </.s -f- 

HOYLE'S GAMES. 

AMERICA'S 
Complete Hand-Book of Games, 

CONTAINING 

ALL THE CARD GAMES PLAYED IN THE UNITED 
STATES WITH THEIR RULES, REGULATIONS, 
TECHNICALITIES, ETC., ADAPTED TO THE 
AMERICAN MODE OF PLAYING, 

FROM THE TEXT OF 

HOYLE, AND THE BEST MODERN 
AUTHORITIES. 

ALSO COMPRISING 

BACKGAMMON, CHESS, CHECKERS, BILLIARDS, 

POOL, BAGATELLE, BOWLS, ETC., 

WITH NUMEROUS DIAGRAMS AND ENGRAVINGS. 

COMPLETE EDITION. 

Revised, Corrected, and Enlarged. 

PHILADELPHIA ^/^^ p Y R,Q HT ^ 
;rawford 4 Compaq, ~ i f\ ittQO 



Crawford <t Compan*, Y> - .rmn 

4 7 N. Ninth St. tfftV 1.0 \oy\J 






Copyrighted 
By CRAWFORD & COMPANY. 

1890. 



CONTENTS. 



PAGE 

All Fours 322 

Auction Pitch . . 663 

Backgammon 385 

Bagatelle Games — La Bagatelle 643 

Sans Egal 644 

Mississippi 644 

Trou Madame 644 

Eussian Bagatelle 645 

Billiards 543 

Carambole Games 576 

Cramp Games 577 

Bricole Game » 578 

Bar-Hole Game 578 

Go-Back or Pull-Down Game 580 

The Doublet Game 580 

Commanding Game 581 

The Limited Game t . . 581 

Cushion Game 582 

French and Eussian Games 582 

American or Four-Ball Game 584 

Spanish Game 584 

Blind Hookey 332 

Boston 294 

Bowls, American 647 

Nine Ball . 649 

Match Game 650 

Philadelphia Game , . 650 

(Hi) 



IV CONTENTS. 

PAGE 

Bowls Continued — Without Center Pin , , 650 

Cocked Hat 650 

Four-Pin Game 651 

To Leave Center Pin Standing 651 

Boston Game 651 

Game for Smallest Number . 651 

Counting Old and New 652 

Brag 309 

Cassino 309 

California Jack 665 

Checkers or Draughts 410 

Examples from Sturges 420 

Examples of Critical Positions by Martin ....... 507 

Polish Checkers . . " 510 

Chess 519 

Commerce 327 

Connexions 312 

Cribbage » . 267 

Six-Card Cribbage 284 

Three-Handed Cribbage 287 

Four-Handed Cribbage 288 

Dominoes . . - 682 

Block Game 682 

Draw Game 683 

Muggins 683 

Bergen Game . . 684 

Domino Bounce , • 685 

Domino Euchre 686 

Domino Poker 687 

Bingo 688 

Matador 6S^ 

Tiddle-a-wink 690] 



CONTENTS. V 

PAGE 

Dice 692 

Draw-Poker With Dice 693 

Multiplication 694 

Bound the Spot 694 

Going to Boston , 694 

Help Your Neighbor 695 

Sweat or Chucker Luck ., 695 

Vingt-un with Dice 696 

Division Loo • 383 

Draw-Poker or Bluff 669 

Jack-Pots 679 

Old Fashioned Game . . 670 

E. O 350 

Ecarte 245 

Euchre 351 

Euchre with Joker 377 

Two-Handed Euchre 377 

Three-Handed Euchre 379 

Set-Back Euchre 381 

Forty-Five 653 

Faro 334 

Loto , 313 

Lansquenet 320 

Loo ' 324 

Lottery 326 

Matrimony 333 

Pedro Sancho 657 

Pencchle 660 

Two-Handed Penuchle 660 

Four-Handed Penuchle 661 

Three-Handed Penuchle 662 

Piquet 195 



VI CONTENTS. 

PAGE 

Pope Joan . . , 315 

Put 321 

Quadrille ■ 325 

Quinze 311 

Reversis 298 

Bounce 655 

Eouge Et Noir . 341 

Roulette . . 346 

Shuffle-Board 696 

Stxty-Six 382 

Speculation 324 

Yingt-un .316 

Whist 

From Text of Mathews 7 

From Text of Hoyle 31 

From Text of Deschapelles 78 

Dumby or Three-Handed Whist 178 

Double Dumby , 179 

Short Whist 180 



CONTENTS TO WHIST. 



Index to Whist, - • . - riii 

Bob Short's Rules (by way of finger-post) - xi 

Prefatory Chapter, - - 2 

Part I. From the text of Mathews, - 7 

Rules and Maxims for Beginners, - • • 

On Leads, - - - ...... St 

Part II. From the text of Hoylb, • ... 81 

Fraudulent modes of playing, - - • 88 

Rules and Maxims, - 88 

Examples of particular Games, ------ 48 

Mode of playing Sequences, - • - 58 

How to play for an Odd Trick, - - 67 

Laws and Regulations. Of Dealing, Revoking, &c, - 68 

Explanation of Technical Terms, - 71 

Calculation of Odds, - 78 

Part III. From the text of Deschapelleb, 78 
Laws and Regulations. The Deal, the Stakes, the Honours, 

the Revoke, &c, -------- 79-81 

The Piinciples of the Laws, Directions, &c, - 92-146 

Part IV. Whist by the Editor, 146 

Laws of Whist, Cutting-in, the Deal, the Game, the Revoke, 

the Score, &c, - • 162-160 

Terms used at Whist, - - 161 

Whist — its System and Science, - - 168 

Principles of the Game according to Deschapclles, 168 

The Deal and its Arrangements, - 138-178 

Dumby, or Three-handed Whist, • « 178 

Double Dumby, - 178 

Short Whist t its System and Science, - - 18f-188 

vii 






INDEX TO WHIST. 



Ace, when turned up, how to play, 
52 ; how to lead, 167, 196. 

Bumper, explanation of, 161. 
Bystanders, rules for regulating the 
duties of, 91, 143, 160, 161. 

Calculations, rules for making, 7, 
30 ; of odds, 73 ; for laying wagers, 
75 ; for the whole rubber, 76 ; of 
chances on the deal, 77, 167. 

Call, the rules for regulating, 117; 
the term explained, 117, 161. 

Cases, peculiar, or curious, 61, 62, 63, 
67, 68. 

Command of adversary's suit, to 
keep, 65. 

Counting, mode of, 159. 

Cutting for deal, laws of, 80, 81, 152; 
remarks on, 98, 99, 100. 

Cutting in, explanation of, 152, 161. 

Cutting out, explained, 161. 

Deal, the principles and laws for re- 
gulating, 68, 80, 97—103, 120, 153, 
154; calculations on the chances 
of, 77, 167 ; the preliminary ar- 
rangements for, 80, 81, 93 ; cutting 
for, 80, 81, 98, 99, 100, 152 ; how 
lost, 82 ; right of demanding a new 
one, 118 ; irregularities in, 154; ex- 
planatory remarks on, 161. 

Disputes settled by the bystanders, 
SI, 143, 160, 161. 

Drawing, rules for, 94. 

Dumby, or three-handed whist, rules 
for playing at, 178. 

, double dumby, rules for 

playing at, 179. 

Elder hand, directions for the, 44 ; 

how he is to play for the odd trick, 

67 ; explanation of, 161. 
Examples of games, 20 — 28, 48, 61 — 

65, 193—198. 
Exposed cards, penalties for, 81, 85, 

86, 121, 124, 139, 141, 153, 166. 
viii 



Finessing, advice respecting, 10, 16, 

19, 49, 51 ; explained, 16, 71, 161 ; 

in Short Whist, 184. et seq. 
First hand, rules for playing the, 169. 
Forcing, 10; case to demonstrate the 

danger of, 49 ; the term explained. 

71, 161, 193. 
Fourth hand, rules for playing the, 

174. 
Fraudulent modes of playing, 38. 

Hand, throwing down the, law of, 
141. See First, Second, Third, 
and Fourth Hand. 

Honours, on playing, 48, 49; how 
counted, 84 ; rules respecting, 70, 
84, 85, 112, 116, 142, 157, 158; ori- 
gin and objects of, 114 — 129: ru'es 
for the holding of two, 116, 117; 
explanatory remarks on, 157. 

Indications and inferences from the 

lead, 176. 
Intimations to partners, law of, 89, 

135, 176. 
Irregularities in the hands, 70, 82, 

104—108. 

Kino, when turned up, how to play, 

52. 
King card, explained, 161. 

Laws and regulations of Whist, bv 
Hoyle, 68—7 1 ; by Deschapelles, 79 
— 91 ; general summary of, 89, 90 ; 
for bystanders, 91, 143, 160, 161 ; 
on the principles of, 92 ; by the 
Editor, 152, et seq., 160; of Short 
Whist, 180, et seq. 

Lead, or leads, Mathews' rules and 
maxims for playing the, 8, et seq.; 
directions for the, 29, 39, 44 ; 
Hoyle's general rules, 39 ; penalty 
for playing out of turn, 155; the 
principles of, by Deschapelles, 164, 
et seq., 191 ; the Editor's rules for 



INDEX TO WHIST. 



167, et seq., 194; indications and 

inferences From, 176. 
Leading through trump card, 52, 190. 
Lookers on, see Bystanders. 
Loose card, meaning of, 71, 162. 
Lot, drawing by, 143. 
Lurch, the term explained, 158. 

Memory, artificial, at Whist, mode 

of, 72 ; disapproved, 72. 
Mis-dealing, incurs forfeiture of deal, 

164, 161. 

Odd trick, on playing for the, 1 5, 40, 
66, 67; critical case for winning 
the, 53. 

Odds in the deal, 167 ; a synopsis of, 
in the points scored, 177. 

Partners, hints or intimations be- 
tween, how far limited, 89, 119, 
135, et seq., 159. 

Penalties, for a revoke, 69, 83, 87, 88, 
125, 129, et seq., 157; for playing 
out of turn, 69, 86, 124, 140, 143, 
154, 155; for mis-dealing, 69, 82, 
86, 90, 154, 161 ; for exposing cards, 
81, 85, 86, 121, 141, 155; for look- 
ing at the turn-up card before it is 
turned, 81; for plaj-ing more than 
one card to a trick, 86, 155; for not 
placing tricks in distinct order, 89; 
losing the deal, 1 02 ; for having sur- 
plus cards, 107 ; for throwing up 
cards, 160. 

Piping at Whisk, 35. 

Playing, fraudulent modes of, 33. 

— — out of turn, penalties for, 

69, 86, 124, 143, 154, 155. 
to points, 23. 



Preliminary arrangements, 8, 68; in 
extenso, 79, 93, 152. 

Points, explanations of, 71, 83, 84, 
158, 162; rules respecting, 112, 113, 
115 ; number of, 157 : rules for scor- 
ing, 159 ; synopsis of the odds 
scored, 177. 

Quart, explanation of, 71, 162. 
Quart-major explained, 162. 
Queen, when turned up, how to play, 

62. 
Quint, explanation of v 71, 164. 

Renounce, the term explained, 162. 
Reverse, meaning of the term, 72. 



Revoke, the, sometimes advantA 
geous, 18, 134, 135 ; how it may be 
discovered, 72 ; various ways of 
and penalties for, 69, 83, 87, 88, 129 
et seq., 157, 182 ; theory of, 127 
128; explanation of, 156, 162. 

Rubber, meaning of the term, 83, 109 
158, 162. 

Ruff and honours, games of, 2. 

Ruffing, playing a trump to any other 
suit, 10, 162. 

Rules, from Mathews, 8 — 30 ; from 
Hoyle, 39, et seq. ; from Descha- 
pelles, 139, et seq. ; from the Ed- 
itor, 152, et seq. ; from Major A., 
191. See Laws. 

Saw, case to demonstrate the advan- 
tage of a, 49 ; meaning of, 72, 1 62. 

Score, explanation of the, 72, h3, 162, 
109, 112, 113; rules for the, 167; 
with counters, 159. 

Second hand, rules and directions for 
playing the, 44, 49, 61, 171, 172. 

Sequences, rules and directions for 
playing, 15, 53 — 65, 57, et seq., 176; 
explanation of, 162. 

Shorts, or Short Whist, its first intro 
duction, 147 : explained, 150 ; its 
system and science, by the Editor, 
180; the slam, 181 ; laws of, 181, et 
seq., 191; finessing, 184; peculi» 
arities of, 193; on the playing of 
trumps, 194 — 196; management of 
suits, 197. 

Shuffling the pack, rules for, 81, 158* 
remarks on, 98, 99, 100. 

Single cards, leading from, 27. 

Slam, case for a, 63; the term ex 
plained, 72, 111, 158, 164; in Short 
Whist, 191. 

Stakes, rules for the, 63 ; on the 
amount of, 96 ; remarks on, 1 09. 

Suit, cautions not to part with the 
command of, 65 ; necessity of fol- 
lowing, 143. 

, long, directions for playing, 56, 

57, 170. 

, strong, how to play, 20, 170. 

Suits of the adversary, now to judge 
of, 16. 

Ten or nine turned up on the right 

hand, how to play to, 64. 
Tenace, case to demonstrate the, 17, 

22, 60 ; explanation of, 72, 162. 

ix 



IWDEX TO WHIST. 



Terce, er tierce, explanation of, 72. 

Terms of Whist explained, 71, 161, 
162. 

Third hand, directions for playing 
the, 173. 

Thirteenth card 15. 

Three-handed Whist, or Dumby, 
rales for, 178. 

Throwing down the hand, laws of, 
141, 160. 

Throwing up cards, penalty for, 160. 

Tierce-major, 14, 20; explanation of, 
72. 

Trick, how to lose one and gain three, 
47. 

Tricks, how counted, 111, 164 ; on 
playing for, 40; on taking up, 138, 
139, 160; have precedence of hon- 
ours in counting, 1 57. 

"Brump, long, the term explained, 55 
71, 162; how to play, 171. 

Trump card to be kept back, 21 ; pos- 
session of the last one of great ad- 
vantage, 26 ; regulations respecting 
the, 99, 100. 

Trumps, Mathews' rales and direc- 
tions for playing, 10, et seq. ; 
lioyle's rales for, 89, 41, 42, 57; 



the one turned up to be remember 
ed, 56 ; how to be played up to, 54 j 
origin and objects ofj 114; played 
in error, 156; risk of leading with, 
166; how to play when strong in, 
170, 194, et seq. 
Turn-up card, regulations respecting 
the, 99, 100. 

Umpires in contested cases, 1 44. 
Under-play, explanation of, 21, 162. 

Wagers, calculations for laying, 75. 

Whisk, piping at, explained^ 35. 

Whist, origin and history of, 2, 8, 
148; the various editions on, 4; on 
the study and principles of, 5, 163; 
from Mathews, 7—30 ; his rules and 
maxims, 8; from Hoyle, 31 — 77; 
vulgarly called " Whisk'" 31; Sey 
mour's dissertation on, 31—36 ; laws 
and regulations of, by Hoyle, 68; 
from Deschapelles, 78 — 145 ; his 
laws and regulations, 79 ; disserta- 
tion on, by the Editor, 146—198; 
laws of, 152; rules at Dumby, 178; 
Short Whist, its system and sci- 
ence, 180, et seq. 



BOB SHORT'S RULES, 

(By way of finger-post to the elaborate Treatise which follows : with occasional 
references to the same rules, as given by Mathews, noyle, Deschapelles, and 
the Editor.) 



1. Lead from your strong suit, and be cautious how you change suits, 
and keep a commanding card to bring it in again. 

M. p. 29; H. p. 39; Ed. p. 167, et seq. 

2. Lead through the strong suit and up to the weak, but not in trumps, 
unless very strong in them. 

M. p. 29 ; H. p. 29; Ed. p. 167, et seq. 

3. Lead the highest of a sequence, but if you have a quart or cinque to 
a king, lead the lowest. 

M. p. 29; H. p. 29; Ed. p. 167, et seq. 

4. Lead through an honour, particularly if the game is much against you. 

M. p. 29; H. p. 40, 52 ; Ed. p. 170, 171, 190. 

5. Lead your best trump, if the adversaries are eight, and you have no 
honour; but not if you have four trumps, unless you have a sequence. 

M. p. 29; H. p. 41, 44, 57 ; Ed. p. 168. 

6. Lead a trump, if you have four or five, or a 6trong hand ; but not if 

M. p. 29; H. p. 41; Ed. p. 160. 

7. Having ace, king, and two or three small cards, lead ace and king, if 
weak in trumps ; but a small one if strong in them. 

M. p. 29 ; H. p. 40, 41 ; Ed. p. 168. 

8. If you have the last trump, with some winning cards, and one losing 
card only, lead the losing card. 

M. p. 26, 29; H. p. 41; Ed. p. 159. 

9. Return your partner's lead, not the adversary's; and if you had only 
three originally, play the best ; but you need not return it immediately 
when you win with the king, queen, or knave, and have only small ones ; 
or when you hold a good sequence, have a strong suit, or have five trumps. 

M. p. 27; H. p. 39; Ed. p. 74. 

10. Do not lead from ace queen or ace knave. 

M.p. 14; H.p.41; Ed. p. 172. 

11. Do not lead an ace unless you have a king. 

M. p. 15; H. p. 41 ; Ed. p. 168, 199 

12. Do not lead a thirteenth card unless trumps are out. 

M. p. 15; Ed. p. 171. 

18. Do not trump a thirteenth card, unless you are a last player, or want 
the lead. 

II. p. 10, II; H. p. 61; Ed. p. 172. 

xi 



BOB SHORT*S RULES 

14. Keep a small card to return your partner's lead 

M. p. 16. 

15. Be cautious in trumping a card when strong in trumps, particularly 
b you have a strong suit. 

M. p. 11, 17; H. p. 40. 

16. Having only a few small trumps, make them when you can. * 

M. p. 14; H.p. 39. 

17. If your partner refuses to trump a suit of which he knows you have 
not the best, lead your best trump. 

M. p. 13; Ed. p. 170. 

18. When you hold all the remaining trumps, play one, and then try to 
put the lead in your partner's hand. 

M. p. 17; H.p. 41; Ed. p. 176. 

19. Remember how many of each suit are out, and what is the best card 
left in each hand. 

H. p. 72. 

20. Never force your partner if you are weak in trumps, unless you have 
a renounce, or can ensure the odd trick. 

M. p. 10 ; H. p. 49. 

21. When playing for the odd trick, be cautious of trumping out, espe- 
cially if your partner is likely to trump a suit; and make all the tricks 
you can early, and avoid finessing. 

M.p.15; H.p. 39. 

22. If you take a trick and have a sequence, win it with the lowest 

M. p. 20. 

SECOND HAND 

23. Having ace, king, and small ones, play a small one, if strong in 
trumps, but the king if weak ; and having ace, king, queen, or knave only, 
with a small one, play the small one. 

H. p. 44, 61; Ed. p. 171. 

THIRD HAND. 

24. Having ace and queen, play the queen, and if it wins, return the ace 
and in all other cases play the best, if your partner leads a small one. 

Ed. p. 174. 

25. Neglect not to make the odd trick, when in your power. 

H. p. 40, 66, 67. 

26. Attend to the score, and play the game accordingly. 

D. p. 112, 113; Ed. p. 167. 

27. Retain the card turned up as long as possible. 

D. p. 100. 

18. When in doubt, win the trick. 

H. p. 40. 
Tii 



PART THE j^IRST. 

WHIST: FROM TEE TEXT OF MATHEWS. 

INTRODUCTION. 

Whist is a game of Calculation, Observation, and Position 
or Tenace. 

Calculation teaches you to plan your game, and lead origi- 
nally to advantage ; before a card is played, you suppose the 
dealer to have an honour and three other trumps ; the others 
each an honour and two others. The least reflection will 
show, that as it is two to one, that your partner has not a 
nam')d card, to lead on the supposition he has it, is to play 
against calculation. Whereas, the odds being in favour of 
his having one of two named cards, you are justified in play- 
ing accordingly. Calculation is also of use on other occasions, 
which the maxims will elucidate ; but after a few leads have 
taken place, it is nearly superseded by observation. Where 
the sets are really good players, before half the cards are 
played out, they are as well acquainted with the material 
ones remaining in each other's hands as if they had seen 
them. Where two regular players are matched against two 
irregular ones, it is nearly the same advantage as if they 
were permitted to see each other's cards, while the latter were 
denied the same privilege. 

It is an axiom, that the nearer your play approaches to 
what is called the dumb man the better. 

These may be called the foundation of the game, and are 
so merely mechanical, that any one possessed of a tolerable 
memory may attain them. 

After which comes the more difficult science of position, or 
the art of using the two former to advantage ; without which, 
it is self-evident, they are of no use. Attentive study and 
practice will, in some degree, ensure success ; but genius must 
be added before the whole finesse of the game can be acquired 
— however, 

Est quiddam prodire tenus, si non datur ultra. 

7 



WHIST ACCORDING TO MATHEWS. [PART 1 

DIRECTIONS AND MAXIMS FOR BEGINNERS. 



Study all written maxims with the cards placed before 
you, in the situations mentioned. Abstract directions puzzle 
much oftener than they assist the beginner. 

Keep in your mind that general maxims pre-suppose the 
game and hand, at their commencement ; and that material 
changes in them frequently require that a different mode of 
play should be adopted. 

Do not attempt to practice till you have acquired a com- 
petent knowledge of the theory ; and avoid as much as pos- 
sible, at first, sitting down with bad players. It is more 
difficult to eradicate erroneous, than to acquire just ideas. 

Never lead a card without a reason, though a wrong one ; 
it is better than accustoming yourself to play at random. 

Do not at first puzzle yourself with many calculations. 
Those you will find hereafter mentioned are sufficient even 
for a proficient. 

Do not accustom yourself to judge by consequences. Bad 
play sometimes succeeds when good would not. "When you 
see an acknowledged judge of the game play in a manner 
you do not comprehend, get him to explain his reasons, and 
while fresh on your memory, place the same cards before 
you ; when once you can comprehend the case, you will be 
able to adapt it to similar situations. 

Before you play a card, sort your hand carefully, look at 
the trump card, and consider the score of the game, the 
strength of your own hand, and form your plan on the pro- 
bable situation of the cards; subject, however, to be changed 
should any thing fall to indicate a different one ; after which, 
never look at your hand, till you are to play ; without attend- 
ing to the board, no maxims or practice can ever make a 
tolerable Whist player. 

Observe silently and attentively, the different systems of 
those with whom you commonly play ; few but have their 
avourite one, the knowledge of which will give you a con- 
stant advantage ; one leads by preference from an ace, another 
never but through necessity. [This will often direct you in 
putting on the king second.] The players of the old school 
8 



PART I.] RULES AND MAXIMS TOR BEGINNERS. 

never lead from a single card without six trumps; many do 
so from weakness ; some have a trick of throwing down high 
cards to the adversary's lead, and then, by way of deception, 
affect to consider, although they have no alternative. Obser- 
vation will enable you to counteract this, and turn it to youi 
own profit. 

The best leads are from sequences of three cards or more 
If you have none, lead from your most numerous suit; if 
strong in trumps, lead rather from one headed by a king than 
a queen ; but with three or four small trumps, I should prefer 
leading from a single card to a long weak suit. 

Q^" This is contrary to the usual practice, especially of the players of 
the Old School. 

The more plainly you demonstrate your hand to your 
partner the better. Be particularly cautious not to deceive 
him in his or your own leads, or when he is likely to have 
the lead — a concealed game may now and then succeed in the 
suits of your adversaries; but this should not be attempted 
before you have made a considerable proficiency ; and then 
but seldom, as its frequency would destroy the effect. 

At the commencement of a game, if you have a good hand 
or if your adversaries are considerably advanced in the score, 
play a bold game ; if otherwise, a more cautious one. 

Be as careful of what you throw away as what you lead ; 
it is often of bad consequence to put down a tray with a 
deuce in your hand. Suppose your partner leads the four, 
your right-hand adversary the five, and you put down the 
tray, it ought to be to a certainty, that you ruff it next time ; 
but if he find the deuce in your hand, and you frequently 
deceive him by throwing down superior cards, it will destroy 
his confidence, and prevent his playing his game on similar 
occasions. I would wish to inculcate these minor qualifica- 
tions of whist playing to the beginners, because they are 
attainable by every body ; and when once the great advantage 
of this kind of correctness is seen, the worst player would 
practice it as constantly as the best — attention being all that 
is necessary. 

Do not lead trumps merely because an honour is turned 
up on your left, or be deterred from it, if on your right-hand. 
Either is proper, if the circumstances of your hand require 
trumps to be led; but neither, otherwise. 

9 



WHIST ACCORDING TO MATHEWS. [PART 1 

Finesses are generally right in trumps, or (if strong in 
them) in other suits ; otherwise they are not to be risked but 
with caution. 

Never ruff an uncertain card, if strong, or omit doing so 
if weak in trumps ; this is one of the few universal maxims, 
and cannot be too closely adhered to, even did you know the 
best of the suit was in your partner's hand ; it has the double 
advantage of making a useless trump and letting your partner 
into the state of your hand, who will play accordingly. 

Keep the command of your adversary's suit as long as you 
can with safety ; but never that of your partner. 

Do not ruff a thirteenth card second lead, if strong ; but 
always if weak in trumps. 

Always force the strong, seldom the weak, never the two ; 
otherwise you play your adversaries' game, and give the one 
an opportunity to make his small trumps, while the other 
throws away his losing cards. It is a very general as well 
as fatal error ; but the extent of it is seldom comprehended 
by unskilful players, who, seeing the good effect of judicious 
forces, practice them injudiciously, to their almost constant 
disadvantage. The following effect of a force is too obvious 
not to be instantly comprehended. I have only to tell the 
student, that the same principle operates through the fifty- 
two cards, however various their combinations ; and that a 
steady consideration of it is one of the first necessary steps 
towards an insight into the game. 

A has a seizieme major in trumps, a quart major in the 
second, and a tierce major in a third suit. B his adversary, 
has six small trumps, and the entire command of the fourth 
suit ; in this case it is obvious that one force on A, gains the 
odd trick for B, who, without it, loses a slam. Though so 
great an effect may seldom be produced, still there is scarcely 
a rubber where the truth of the maxim is not experimentally 
proved. 

When, with a very strong suit, you lead trumps in hope 
your partner may command them, show your suit first. If 
you have a strength in trumps in your hand, play them 
originally. 

With the ace and three other trumps, it is seldom right to 
win the first and second lead in that suit, if made by your 
adversaries, unless your partner ruffs some other. 
10 



PAET I.J RLLE8 AND MAXIMS FOE BEGINNER8. 

With a strong hand in trumps, particularly if you have a 
long suit, avoid ruffing your right-hand adversary, as much as 
possible. As this is a maxim less understood, less practised, 
and more indispensably necessary, than almost any other, I 
will endeavour to explain it to beginners, as clearly as I am 
capable of doing :— Cards being nearly equal, the point to 
which all the manoeuvres of good Whist players tend, is to 
establish a long suit, and to preserve the last trump, to bring 
it into play, and to frustrate the same play of their adversaries. 
With an honour (or even a ten) with three other trumps, by 
well managing them, you have a right to expect success. In 
this case do not over-trump your right-hand adversary early 
in the hand ; but throw away a losing card, by which, there 
remaining but twelve trumps, your own hand is strengthened, 
and your partner has the tenace, in whatever suit is led ; 
whereas, had you over-ruffed you would have given up the 
whole game, to secure one trick. But there are reasons for 
breaking this rule : — 1st, if your left-hand adversary has 
shown a decided great hand in trumps, (in which case make 
your tricks while you can ;) or 2nd, if your partner decidedly 
means to force you ; — to understand if this be the case, you 
are to observe if your partner plays the winning or losing 
card of the suit you have refused. If the former, it is by no 
means clear he means to force you, and you play your own 
game. If the latter, you. are to suppose him strong in 
trumps, and depend on this to protect your long suit ; a due 
reflection on this will convince you of the value of that 
maxim, which enjoins you never to play a strong game with 
a weak hand, or vice versa. A few deviations from this 
effectually destroy that confidence necessary between part- 
ners, and introduces a confusion and consequences, that can- 
not be too carefully avoided or too strenuously deprecated. 

If the circumstances of your hand require two certain leads 
in trumps, play off your ace, let your other trumps be what 
they may. 

It is a general maxim not to force your partner, unless 
strong in trumps yourself. There are, however, many excep- 
tions to this rule : as - 

1st. If your partner has led from a single card. 

2nd. If it saves or wins a particular point. 

3rd. If great strength in trumps is declared against you. 



WHIST ACCORDING TO MATHEWS. [l'ABT 1 

4th If you have a probability of a saw. 

6th. If your partner has been forced and did not trump out. 

Sth. It is often right in playing for an odd trick. 

It is difficult to judge when to lead trumps. The following 
situations will assist the beginner to reason, and in general 
direct him properly : 

1st. With six trumps, on supposition your partner has a strong suit. 
2nd. If strong in other suits, though weak in trumps yourself. 
3rd. If your adversaries are playing from weak suits. 
4th. If your adversaries are at the point of eight, and you have no 
nonour, or probability of making a trump by a ruff. 

It is easy soon to discover the different strengths of good 
players, but more difficult with bad ones. When your 
adversary refuses to trump, and throws away a small card, 
you conclude his hand consists of a strong suit in trumps, 
with one strong and another weaker suit. If he throws an 
honour, you know he has two suits only, one of which is 
trumps. In the latter case win tricks when you can. Avoid 
leading trumps, or to his suit; force him, and give your 
partner an opportunity to trump, if possible. This maxim 
cannot be too maturely considered, as this is a fault which 
is constantly committed by bad players, and is amongst those 
most fatal in their consequences. The moment an adversary 
refuses to ruff, though a winning card, they, in violation of 
common sense, trump out, and not unfrequently give away 
five or six tricks, which a judicious force would have pre- 
vented. 

If you are strong in trumps, and have the ace, king, and 
two more of your right-hand adversary's lead, there are two 
ways to play ; either to pass it the first time, or else to put 
on the ace, and play the suit on to force your partner. If 
weak in trumps, put on the ace, but do not continue the 
suit. 

If you win your partner's lead with the queen, unless in 
trumps, do not return it ; it is evident the ace or king lies 
behind him, and you give the tenace to the adversary. 

To lead from only three cards, unless in sequence, is bad 
play, and only proper when you have reason to think it is 
your partner's suit; in which case play off the highest, though 
the king or queen. 

N. B This is contrary to the general practice, but undoubtedly right 



PAET I.] RULES AND MAXIMS FOR BEGINNERS. 

The first object should be to save the game, if it appears in 
probable danger ; the next to win it, if you have a reasonable 
hope of success, by any mode of play, though hazardous. If 
neither of these is the question, you should play to the points 
or score of the game. In other words, you should not give 
up the certainty of the odd trick, or scoring five or eight, for 
the equal chance of two, six or nine ; whereas you should 
risk an equal finesse that will prevent your adversaries from 
these scores by its success. 

It is generally right to return your partner's lead in trumps 
unless he leads an equivocal card, such as a nine or ten. 
These are called equivocal, because they are led with pro- 
priety, both from strong and weak suits. With a quart or a 
king — or nine, ten, knave, and king of a suit, you lead nine, 
as you do when it is the best of two or three of a suit. 

With only four trumps, do not lead one, unless your 
strong suit is established, except that with a tierce-major 
and another trump, and a sequence to the king of three more, 
it is good play to lead trumps twice, and then the knave of 
your suit, and continue till the ace is out. 

If you remain with the best trump, and one of your adver- 
saries has three or more, do not play out, as it may stop the 
3uit of your other adversary. If they both have trumps 
and your partner none, it is right to take out two for one. 

If strong in trumps, with the commanding card of the 
adversaries' suit, and small ones, force your partner, if he 
has none of that suit, with the small ones, and keep the 
commanding card till the last. 

If your partner leads the ace and queen of a suit, of which 
you have the king and two others, win his queen that you 
may not stop his suit. 

If your right-hand adversary wins, and returns his part- 
ner's lead, should you have the best and a small one, play 
the latter. If your partner has the third best he will pro- 
bably make it. If your adversary is a bad player, I would 
not advise this, as they never finesse when they ought to do it. 
IX^" If weak in trumps, you should not venture this in other suits. 

If your right-hand adversary calls, and your partner leads 
through him, with ace or king, the nine and a small one, you 
should finesse the nine. 

If your partner calls before his turn, he means you snould 

3 13 



WHIST ACCORDING TO MATHEWS [PART 1 

play a trump. Take every opportunity to show your partnei 
Jiat you can command the trumps. In this case he will keep 
his own strong suit entire ; whereas, if the strength of trumps 
is with the adversaries, his play would be to keep guard on 
thoir suits, and throw away from his own. 

With ace, knave, and another trump, it is right to finesse 
the knave to your partner's lead ; and if strong in them you 
should do the same in any suit. If he leads the ten of any 
suit, you pass it invariably with the ace and knave ; unless 
one trick saves or wins any particular point. 

It is better to lead from ace nine, than ace ten, as you are 
more likely to have a tenace in the latter suit, if led by your 
adversary. 

If your partner, to your winning card, throws away the 
best card of any suit, it shows he wishes you to know he 
commands it ; if the second best, it is to tell you he has no 
more of that suit. 

If very strong in trumps, it is always right to inform your 
partner of it as soon as possible. If fourth player you are 
to win a small trump, and if you have a sequence of three 
or more, win it with the highest, and play the lowest after 
wards. 

If strong in trumps, do not ruff the second best of any 
suit your partner leads, but throw away a losing card, unless 
you have an established saw. 

If ten cards are played out, and there remains one entire 
suit, and your partner lead, if you have a king, ten, and 
another, and six tricks, you have a certainty to make the odd 
one, if you play right, let the cards lie how they will ; should 
your right-hand adversary put on an honour, you must win 
it, if not, put on the ten ; with five tricks, put on the king. 

Many good players, in playing tierce majors, begin with 
the king and queen. This is often productive of mischief; 
as when played at other times from king and queen only, the 
ace is kept up, and while each thinks his partner has it and 
has played accordingly, it unexpectedly appears from the 
adversary, and disappoints their whole plan. 

If the fourth player wins his adversary's lead, it is better 
to return it than open a new suit unless strc ng enough in it 
to support his partner. 

With ace, knave, and another, do not win the king led by 
14 



PART I.] RULES AND MAXIMS FOR BEGINNERS. 

jour left-hand adversary. You either force him to exchange 
his lead, or give you tenace in his own suit. 

With ace, queen, &c, of a suit, of which your right-hand 
adversary leads the knave, put on the ace invariably. No 
good player with king, knave, and ten, will begin with the 
knave ; of course it is finessing against yourself, to put on 
.lie queen, and as the king is certainly behind you, you give 
away at least the lead, without any possible advantage. 

With only three of a suit, put an honour on an honour; 
with four or more you should not do it — except the ace 
should not be put on the knave. 

With king and one more, good players sometimes put it on 
a second, sometimes not; if turned up it should invariably 
be put on, and generally in trumps. But queen or knave 
should never be played, unless a superior honour is turned 
up on the right. 

In playing for an odd trick, you play a closer game than 
at other scores. You lead from single cards and force your 
partner, when at another time you would not be justified. 
It is seldom in this case proper to lead trumps ; and few 
finesses are justifiable. It is a nice part of the game, and 
experience, with attention, will alone teach it with effect. 

If the trumps remain divided between you and your part- 
ner, and you have no winning card yourself, it is good play 
to lead a small trump, to put in his hand to play off any that 
he may have, to give you an opportunity to throw away your 
losing cards. 

A remains with two or more trumps, and two losing cards ; 
his partner with a better trump, and two winning cards. It 
is evident, if he plays off a losing card, he will take merely 
his own trumps, but if he plays an inferior trump, and puts 
it iuto his partner's lead, he will play off his winning cards, 
and give A an opportunity to throw away his losing ones. 
N. B. This continually occurs, and it is necessary to be comprehended. 

When your partner leads, win with the lowest of a sequence, 
to demonstrate your strength in his suit ; but it is often right 
to win your adversary's lead with the highest, to keep him 
in ignorance. 

When your partner plays a thirteenth card, and most of 
the trumps are unplayed, he generally means you should put 
a high trump to strengthen his own hand. 

15 



Whist according to mathews. [part t 

When you have a moderate hand yourself, sacrifice it to 
jour partner; he, if he be a good player, will act in the same 
manner. 

With three, return the highest; with four, the lowest of 
your partner's lead. This answers two purposes, by giving 
your partner an opportunity to finesse, and showing him you 
have but three at most in his suit. 

With the ace, queen, and others of your right-hand adver- 
sary's lead, put on a small one, except he leads a knave, in 
which case put on the ace. 

When at eight, with two honours, look at your adversary's 
score, and consider if there is a probability they should save 
their lurch, or win the game, notwithstanding your partner 
holds a third honour ; if not you should not call, as it gives 
a decided advantage against you in playing for tricks. 

Finessing in general is only meant against one card. 
There are, however, situations when much deeper are re- 
quired : but theory alone, can never enable the beginner to 
discover these. — Supposing it necessary you should make 
two out of the last three cards in a suit not yet played, your 
partner leads the nine, you have ace, ten, and a small one — 
Query, what are you to do ? — Answer, pass it, though the 
finesse is against three ; for if your partner has an honour in 
the suit, you make two tricks. If not, it is impossible by 
any mode of play whatever. 

With king, queen, &c, of your right-hand adversary's 
lead, put on one of them ; with queen, knave, and another, 
the knave ; with two or more small ones, the lowest. 

The more critically you recollect the cards the better; at 
least you should remember the trumps and the commanding 
card of each suit. It is possible to assist the memory by the 
mode of placing the cards, remaining in your hands — viz., 
place the trumps in the back part of your hand, your part- 
ner's lead the next, your adversary's next, and your own on 
the outside. It is also right to put thirteenth cards in some 
known situation. 

It is highly necessary to be correct in leads. — When a 
good player plays an eight and then a seven, I know he leads 
from a weak suit ; the contrary, when he plays the seven 
first ; the same even with a tray or a deuce. This is what 
bad players always err in, as they never can see the difference. 
16 



PART I.] RULES AND MAXIMS FOR BEGINNERS. 

If left with the last trumps, and some winning cards, with 
one losing one, play this first, as your adversary on the left 
may finesse, and the second best in your partner's hand make 
the trick which could not be kept till the last. 

Should your partner refuse to trump a certain winning 
card, try to get the lead as soon as you can, and play out 
trumps immediately. 

Good players never lead a nine or ten, but for one of these 
reasons * 

1st. From a sequence up to the king. 
2d. From nine, ten, knave, and king. 
8d. When the best of a weak suit not exceeding three in number. 

If you have either knave or king in your own hand, you 
are certain it is for the latter reason, and that the whole 
strength of the suit is with your adversary, and play your 
game accordingly. 

If your partner leads the nine or ten, and you have an 
honour, with only one more, put it on ; if with two or more, 
do not ; with the ace and small ones, win it invariably ; for 
it is better that he should finesse in his own suit, than you. 

Unless you have a strong suit yourself, or reason to suppose 
your partner has one, do not trump out unless you have six 
trumps. 

There are situations where even good players differ ; if a 
queen is laid on your right hand, and you have ace or king 
and two small ones, you should certainly win it ; but having 
king or ace, ten, and a small one, I invariably pass it, and 
for the following reasons — by passing it, if your partner has 
the ace or king, you clearly lie tenace, and the leader cannot 
possibly make a trick in the suit, which he must have done, 
had you even the first trick, as he would lay tenace over your 
partner; if your partner has the knave you lose a trick; but 
the odds are greatly against this. 

It is seldom right to lead from a suit in which you have a 
tenace. With ace, queen, &c, of one suit — king, knave, &c, 
of a second — and the third a weak one — the best play is to 
lead from the latter. 

When it is evident the winning cards are betwixt you and 
your adversaries, play an obscure game ; but as clear a one 
as possible, if your partner has a good hand. 

It is equally advantageous to lead up to as through an ace ) 

3* 17 



WHIST ACCORDING TO MATHEWS. [PART L 

not so much so to a king ; and disadvantageous to the queen 
turned up. 

Avoid at first playing with those who instruct, or rather 
find fault, while the hand is playing. They are generally 
unqualified by ignorance, and judge from consequences ) but 
if not, advice while playing does more harm than good, by 
confusing a beginner. 

It is seldom right to refuse to ruff when your partner, if a 
good player, visibly intends you should do it. If a bad one, 
your own hand should direct you. 

If you have ace, king, and two more trumps, and your 
partner leads them originally, insure three rounds in trumps ; 
but if he leads (in consequence of your showing your strength) 
a nine, or any equivocal card, in that case, pass it the first 
time ; by which you have the lead after three rounds of 
trumps, a most material advantage. 

There is often judgment required in taking the penalties of 
a revoke. Before the score is advanced, if the party revoking 
has won nine tricks, the least consideration will show, that 
the adversaries should take three of them, for if they add 
three to their own score, they still leave the odd trick to the 
former ; but if the revoking party be at eight, it is better for 
the adversary to score three points, as the odd trick leaves 
the former at nine, which is in every respect a worse point 
than eight. On other occasions, it is only to calculate how 
the different scores will remain after each mode of taking 
the penalty ; and it will be obvious which will be the most 
advantageous — never losing sight of the points of the game, 
t. e., scoring eight or five yourself, or prevent your adversary 
from doing so. 

With ace, queen, and ten, of your right-hand adversary's 
lead, put out the ten. 

When your left-hand adversary refuses to trump a winning 
card, for fear of being over-trumped by your partner, and 
throws away a losing card, if you have the commanding card 
of the suits he discards, play it before you continue the former. 

When all the trumps are out, if you have the commanding 
card of your adversary's suit, you may play your own as if 
you had the thirteenth trump in your own hand. 

If A, your right-hand adversary, leads a card, and his 
partner B, putting on the knave or queen, yours wins with tht 
18 



I>ART I.] RULES AND MAXIMS FOR BEGINNERS. 

king — should A lead a small card of that suit again, if you 
have the ten put it on. It is probable, by doing this, you 
keep the commanding card in your partner's hand, and pre- 
vent the second best from making. 

If weak in trumps, keep guard on your adversary's suits. 
If strong, throw away from them, and discard as much as 
possible from your partner's strong suits, in either case. 

Should your left-hand adversary lead the king, to have the 
finesse of the knave, and it comes to your lead, if you have 
queen and one more, it is evident the finesse will succeed. In 
this case, play the small one through him, which frequently 
will prevent him from making the finesse, though he has 
originally played for it. 

If your partner shows a weak game, force him, whether or 
ot you are otherwise entitled to do it. 
When you are at the score of four or nine, and your adver- 
saries, though eight, do not call, if you have no honour, it is 
evident your partner has two at least. It is equally so if you 
have one, that he has at least another. If both parties are 
at eight, and neither calls, each must have one. 

A little reflection will enable the beginner to make a proper 
advantage of these data. 

When your partner leads a card, of which you have the 
best and third, and your right-hand adversary puts on the 
fourth, the second only remaining — it is a commonly-received, 
but erroneous opinion, that the chance of succeeding in the 
finesse is equal; but here calculation will show, that as the 
last player has one card more than his partner, it is that pro- 
portion in favour of his having it. With three cards, it will 
be three to two against making the finesse. 

Moderate players have generally a decided aversion to part 
with the best trump, though single; thinking that as they 
cannot lose it, and it can make but one trick, it is immaterial 
when it does so — this is a dangerous fault. When your 
adversary plays out his strong suit-, ruff it immediately, 
before you give his partner an opportunity to throw off his 
losing cards. Do not, however, go into the contrary extreme, 
or trump with the best trump, with small ones in your hand, 
for fear of being over-trumped. This is a nice part of the 
game, and can only be understood by practice and attentive 
reasoning. 



WHIST ACCORDING TO MATHEWS. [PART L 

It frequently happens that your partner has an opportunity 
to show his strong suit, by renouncing to a lead. If you have 
a single card in this, play it before you force him, let your 
strength in trumps be what it may ; as it is the way to estab- 
lish the saw, which is almost always advantageous, should the 
second player put on the ace to prevent it ; still it is of great 
utility by establishing your partner's suit. 

A has ace, knave, ten, and a small card of the suit led by 
his right-hand adversary. Query — Which is he to play ? 
Answer — In trumps the ten ; in other suits, the small ones. 
For this reason — In trumps, a good player, with king, queen, 
&c, leads the lowest; in other suits the king: and in the 
latter case, of course an honour must be behind you ; and be 
it in either hand you can do no good by putting on the ten ; 
by keeping the three together you render it impossible for 
your adversary to make one trick in the suit. 

It often happens that with only three cards remaining in his 
hand, the leader has the worst trump, and ace, queen, or some 
tenace of another suit. In this case he should lead the trump, 
to put it into his adversary's hand to play. By these means, 
he preserves the tenace. This, though self-evident on proper 
consideration, is what none but good players ever think of. 

Though it is certainly more regular to win your adversary's 
as well as partner's lead with the lowest of a sequence, still I 
recommend occasional deviations from that maxim ; as it is 
of the greatest advantage to give your partner every infor- 
mation in his, or your own, so it is often to deceive your 
adversaries in their suits. It will now and then deceive your 
partner also; but if done with judgment, it is, I think, 
oftener attended with good than bad effect. 

There are also other situations, where it is highly neces- 
sary to deceive the adversary. A, last player, has a tierce- 
major and a small trump; a tierce-major with two others of a 
second suit ; king, and a small one of a third ; with queen or 
knave, and a small one of the fourth ; of which his adversary 
leads the ace. It is so very material for A to get the lead, 
before he is forced, that he should without hesitation throw 
down the queen, as the most likely method to induce his 
adversary to change his lead. But this mode of play should 
be reserved for material occasions, and n ^t by its frequency 
give cause for its being suspected. 
20 



PART I.] RULES AND MAXIMS FOR BEGINNERS. 

Beginners find it difficult to distinguish between original 
and forced leads. When a player changes his original suit, 
he commonly leads his strongest card of another, to give hia 
partner the advantage of a finesse. In this case you are to 
play this, as if it was your own or adversary's lead — keep the 
commanding card, tenace, &c, and do not return it, as if it 
was an original lead. 

There is nothing more necessary to be explained to the 
beginner, than what is usually denominated under-play, as it 
is a constant engine in the hands of the experienced, to use 
successfully against the inexperienced player. In other 
words, it is to return the lowest of your left-hand adversary's 
lead, though you have the highest in your hand, with a view 
of your partner's making the third best, if he has it, and 
still retaining the commanding card in your hand. 

To explain this farther, suppose A, fourth player, has ace 
and king of his left-hand adversary's lead ; to under-play, he 
wins the trick with the ace, and returns the small one, which 
will generally succeed, if the leader has not the second and 
third in his own hand. You will see by this, if you lead 
from a king, &c, and your right-hand adversary, after win- 
ning with a ten or knave, return it, you have no chance tc 
make your king, but by putting it on. 

The following is another situation to under-play : A re- 
mains with the first, third, and fourth cards of a suit, of 
which he has reason to suppose his left-hand adversary has 
the second guarded ; by playing the fourth, it is often passed, 
and A makes every trick in the suit. 

N. B. This sort of play is always right in trumps ; but if weak in them, 
it is generally the best play to make your certain tricks as fast as you can ; 
for if you have not your share of them, somebody must have more than 
their own, and of consequence be weak in some other suit, which probably 
is your strong one. 

Keep the trump card as long as you can, if your partner 
leads trumps; the contrary, if your adversary leads them. 
In the former instance, supposing the eight turned up, and 
you have the nine, throw away the latter ; in the last (though 
you have the seven or six) play the card you turned up. 

When your partner is to lead, and you call before he plays, 
it is to direct him, if he has no honour, to play off the best 
trump he has. 

21 



J 



WHIST ACCORDING TO MATHEWS. [PART t 

Though according to the strict laws of Whist, all words 
and gestures are prohibited ; yet, like all other laws not en- 
forced by penalties, they are continually violated. There are, 
indeed, few players who do not discover, in some degree, the 
strength of their game, or their approbation or disapprobation 
of their partner's play, &c. As this is on one side often a 
material advantage to the party transgressing, so it is quita 
allowable for the adversaries to make use of it. Attentive 
and silent observation will frequently give an early insight 
into the game, and enable you to play your hand to more 
advantage than by adhering to more regular maxims. 

Though tenace, or the advantage of position, cannot be 
reduced to a certainty, as at piquet ; and that it is often ne- 
cessary to relinquish it for more certain advantages ; still nc 
man can be a whist player who does not fully understand it. 
The principle is simple, but the combinations are various. It 
is easily conceived, that if A has ace, queen, and a small card 
of a suit, of which B has king, knave, and another; if A 
leads the small card, he remains tenace, and wins two tricks ; 
whereas, if he plays the ace, he gives it up and makes but 
one. . But if B is to lead, he has no tenace, and lead which 
card he will, he must make one trick, and can make no more. 
This easy instance, well considered, will enable the player, 
with some practice, to adapt it to more apparently intricate 
situations. 

The following cases, which happen frequently, will further 
explain this : A is left with four cards and the lead, viz. the 
second and fourth trump, and the ace and a small card of a 
suit not played. Nine trumps being out, B, his left-hand 
adversary, has the first and third trump, king and a small 
one of the suit of which A leads the ace. Query, what card 
should B play ? Answer, the king ; by which he brings it to 
an equal chance whether he wins three tricks or two, but if 
he keeps the king he cannot possibly win three. 

By placing the cards you will perceive, that if B's partner 
has a better card than A's, it prevents A from making either 
of his trumps, which, had B retained the king, he must have 
done. 

A has three cards of a suit not played, (the last remaining,) 
viz. king, queen, and ten; B, ace, knave, and another; A 
leads the king ; if B wins it he gives up the tenace, and geti 
22 



VAJLT. I ] RULES AND MAXIMS FOR BEGINNERS. 

but one trick ; whereas if he does l ot, he makes his ace and 
knave by preserving it. 

A has ace, knave, and ten, of a suit which his partner leads. 
Query, which should he put on ? Answer, the ten, particu- 
larly if it is a forced lead ; by this ho probably wins two 
tricks. If he puts on the ace, and his partner has no honour 
in the suit, he gives up the tenace, and can only win one. 

Tenace is easily kept against your right-hand, but impos* 
sible, without great superiority of skill, against your left- 
hand adversary. 

To explain what is meant by playing to points, place the 
following hand before you : A has the two lowest trumps, and 
two forcing cards, with the lead. The two best demonstrably 
in the adversary's hands ; though uncertain if in the same or 
divided. Nine cards being played, and no trump remaining 
— Query, what is A to play? Answer, — this can only be 
decided by the situation of the score, and whether or no it 
justifies the hazarding two tricks for one. The least consi- 
deration will convince the player, that before the score is 
much advanced, it would be highly improper for A te play a 
trump, because he manifestly ventured two tricks for one ; 
of course he should secure two tricks by playing a forcing 
card. But suppose A to be at the score of seven, and that 
he has won six tricks, he should then as clearly venture to 
play the trump, because if the trumps are divided, he wins 
the game, or otherwise remains at seven, which is preferable 
to the certainty of scoring nine. But if the adversary is at 
nine, this should not be done, as by hazarding the odd trick, 
you hazard the game. 

N. B. This mode of reasoning will in general direct you where and when 
finesses are proper or improper. For there is scarcely one, though ever so 
right in general, but what the different situations of the score and hand 
amy render dangerous and indefensible. 

The following critical stroke decided one of the most ma- 
terial rubbers that ever was played, and is recommended to 
the attentive perusal even of proficients. 

The parties were each at nine. A had won six tricks, and 
remained with knave, and a small trump, and two diamonds 
with the lead. B, his left-hand adversary, with the queen 
and ten of trumps, and two clubs. C, his partner, with two 
small trumps, and two diamonds. D, last player, with ace 

23 



WHIST ACCORPTNG TO MATHEWS. [PART I. 

and a small trump, a club, and a heart. A led a diamond, 
which being passed by B, was to be won by D. Query — 
How is he to play, to make it possible to win the odd trick ? 
Answer — D saw it was not possible, unless his partner had 
either the two best trumps, or the first and third, with a suc- 
cessful finesse. He therefore trumped with the ace, led the 
small one, and won the game. 

N. B. In another score of the game, this would not be justifiable, as the 
chance of losing a trick is greater than that of gaining one by it. 

The attentive perusal (in the mode prescribed) of these 
maxims, will, I think, with a little practice, enable a be- 
ginner to play with very good cards to advantage. The 
difficulty of the game does not consist in this; for aces and 
kings will make tricks, and no skill can make a ten win a 
knave. But there are hands which frequently occur when 
skilful players win, where bunglers lose points ; and (unless 
when the cards run very high) it is on the playing of such, 
success depends, viz. ace or king, and three other trumps, a 
tierce-major, with others of a second suit with a probable 
trick in a third — the player's plan should be to remain either 
with the last trump, or with the last but one, with the lead : 
and to accomplish this last, he must not win the second lead 
with the commanding trump, but reserve it for the third. 
Nothing then but five trumps in one hand can probably 
prevent his establishing his long suit, for he forces out the 
best trump, and the thirteenth brings in his suit again, which 
(without the lead after the third round of trumps) would be 
impossible. 

As this maxim is of the utmost consequence, the following 
cases, which happen frequently, are added, to make it more 
clearly understod : — 

A has ace and three trumps, a strong suit, headed by a 
tierce-major, and a probable trick in a third, and lead 
Query — How should this hand be played ? Answer — A 
should lead a trump ; but if his partner wins and returns it, 
A should not put on his ace, but suffer it to be won by his 
adversary. When either A or his partner gets the lead, he 
of course plays a trump, which being won by A, he remains 
with the lead, and one, but not the best trump, though they 
should not be equally divided. This (his strong suit having 
forced out the best) establishes it again, notwithstanding the 
24 



PART I.] RULES AND MAXIMS FOR BEGINNERS. 

adversary may command the other suits, which are by these 

means prevented from making. 

N. B. Had the ace been put on the second lead, the force wonld have 
been on A, and his strong 3uit entirely useless. 

A, with a similar hand, has ace, king, and two small trumps, 
[f the adversaries lead trumps, he should not win the first 
trick, even if last player. By this, after the second lead, he 
still retains the best for the third, according to the maxim, 
and establishes his suit (though the best trump keeps up 
against him) unless there are five in one hand originally. 

With ace, queen, and two small trumps, do not win the 
kuave led on your left-hand, but let it be played again, ac- 
cording to the same maxim. 

As the following, or nearly similar situations frequently 
occur, I recommend them to the attentive perusal of those 
students who, feeling within themselves that they comprehend 
what I have called the alphabet, wish to procure a gradual 
insight into the game, the whole combinations of which, I 
cannot too often repeat, proceed from very plain and simple 
principles ; but it requires much reflection to comprehend the 
same maxim, when applied to inferior cards, that appears 
self-evident in the superiors. There is scarcely a player, 
who if he has the ace, king and knave of the suit of which 
his right-hand adversary turns up the queen, but will lead 
the king, and wait for the return to the finesse his knave. 
But with ace, queen, and ten, (the knave being turned up on 
his right-hand) the same player will not see that his lead, if 
he plays a trump, is the queen, and that one and the same 
principle actuates the players on both occasions, and so 
through the suit. 

It constantly happens that the adversary on the right-hand 
having won his partner's lead with the ace or king, returns 
the knave. In this case do not put on the queen, as the pro- 
bability is against its being finessed. But on all these occa- 
sions, play without hesitation, which constantly directs a 
skilful adversary where to finesse to advantage. 

It frequently happens when you have led from six trumps, 
that after your second lead you remain with three or four 
trumps, the best in your adversary's hand, in these situations 
play a small trump, which has these two advantages. — 1st. 
To prevent the stopping of your partner's suit — and 2d, to 

4 25 



WHIST ACCORDING TO MATHEW8. [PART I 

give you the tenace, in whatever suit is led by the adversary. 
This, mutatis mutandis, will show that it is bad play to put 
out the best trump, leaving others in the hand of one of your 
adversaries. It may do good to keep it up, by stopping a 
suit, and can answer no good purpose whatever to play it out. 

A remains with the best trump (say the ten) and a small 
one, with some losing cards, B, his partner, having clearly 
the second best, (say the nine) with some winning cards; 
the adversaries having one small trump and winning cards 
of the other two suits. A is forced. Query — How is he to 
play ? Answer — A is to nrff with his best, and lead out his 
small trump, by which he puts it into his partner's hand to 
make his winning cards, and renders those of his adversaries 
of no use whatever. This mode of play would sometimes be 
right, even when it was not certain whether the second best 
trump were in his partner's or his adversary's hand ; but the 
fine player alone can be expected to distinguish on so nice an 
occasion. 

There are points where good players disagree. Some play 
what is called a forward — others a more timid game. Some 
commonly put on a king, second; others but rarely. In 
these cases a man may play either way, without committing 
error ; but where all good players are of the same opinion, it 
should be received as an axiom — no good player puts on a 
queen, knave,. or ten, second: of course, it should on all oc- 
casions be carefully avoided. 

The possession of the last trump is of most material 
advantage in the hands of a good player. A has the thir- 
teenth trump, with the ace and four small ones of a suit not 
played, of which the adversary leads the king and queen ; 
by passing them both, A probably makes three tricks in the 
suit; but had he won the king, he could not possibly make 
more than one. 

When it is at your option to be eight or nine, it is mate- 
rial always to choose the former score. 

Observe carefully what is originally discarded by each 
player, and whether at the time, the lead is with the partner 
or adversary. If with the former, it is invariably meant to di- 
rect the partner — if with the latter, it is frequently intended to 
deceive the adversary, and induce him to lead to his strong suit. 

You are not only to take every method to preserve th« 
26 



PART I.] RULES AND MAXIMS FOR BEGINNERS. 

tenace or advantage of the position to yourself, when it is 
evident that the winning cards lie between you and your 
adversary, but also to give it as much as possible to your 
partner, when you perceive the strength in any suit is in the 
hands of him and your left-hand adversary ; always keeping 
in your mind, that when the latter or you lead, the tenace is 
against, if your partner lead, it is for the adversary. It fre- 
quently happens, that by winning your partner's trick, when 
last player, you accomplish this. A has king, knave (or any 
other second and fourth card), with a small one of a suit, that 
B, his left-hand adversary, has the first and third, and another 
with the lead. If A leads his card, and B, your partner, 
wins it ; you, last player, should, if possible, win the trick, 
though it is your partner's. By which means you prevent 
A from making a trick, which he must have done, had the 
lead remained with B. 

As I have ventured to recommend occasional deviations 
from what is considered as one of the most classical maxims ; 
i. e. leading from single cards, without that strength in 
trumps, hitherto judged indispensably necessary to justify it ; 
I give the reasons that influence my opinion, in favour of 
this practice, with those generally alleged against it, leaving 
the reader to determine between them. Two objections are 
made, which, it cannot be denied, may and do happen. The 
first, that if your partner has the king of the suit guarded, 
and the ace behind it, he loses it ; which would not be the 
case, if the lead came from the adversary. The second, and 
most material, is, that your partner, if he wins the trick, may 
lead out trumps, on the supposition it is your strong suit, or 
the adversaries from suspecting your intention. On the con- 
trary, the constant and certain advantages are the preservation 
of the tenace in the other two suits, which I suppose you to 
have, and the probable one of making your small trumps, 
which you could not otherwise do. A has four small trumps, 
ace, queen, &c. of the second suit; king, knave, &c. of a 
third : and a single card of the fourth. In these sort of 
hands, I am of opinion, that the chance of winning, by leading 
the single card, is much greater than of losing tricks ) and I 
appeal to those who are in the habit of attending whist tables, 
whether they do not frequently see the players who proceed 
more exactly according to the maxims of Hoyle, &c. aftei 

27 



WHIST ACCORDING TO MATHEWS. [PART I 

losing the game, trying to demonstrate that this ought not to 
have happened, and that they have been vanquished, by the 
bad, not good play of their adversaries. I do not recommend 
in general leading from single cards, unless very strong in 
trumps ; bat with such hands as I have mentioned, I am 
convinced it may be occasionally done with very great, 
though not certain advantage. It may not be unnecessary 
to inform the reader, that most of Hoyle's maxims were 
collected during what may be called the infancy of AVhist ; 
and that he himself, so far from being able to teach the game, 
was not fit to sit down even with the third-rate players of 
the present day. 

I shall conclude these maxims by a short recapitulation 
of the most material ones, by way of fixing them in the 
minds of the readers. 

Let them be assured that without comprehending the 
leads, modes of playing sequences, and an attentive observa- 
tion of the board, it is as impossible to make any progress 
in the science of Whist, as to learn to spell before they know 
their alphabet. 

That accustoming themselves to reason by analogy, will 
alone teach them to vary their play according to circum- 
stances ; and show them, that the best play in some, is the 
worst in different situations of the game. It is common to 
see even good players hazard the game, merely to gain the 
applause of ignorant by-standers, by making as much of their 
cards as they are capable of ; but this pitiful ambition cannot 
be too much guarded against. Avoid also the contrary ex- 
treme, the faults of the old, and many of the imitators of 
the new school. These never part with a tenace, or certain, 
trick, though for the probability of making several, and are 
like fencers who parry well the attack. No player of this 
kind can ever excel, though he may reach mediocrity. 

I must also repeat my advice to proficients, to vary their 
play according to the set they are engaged with ; and re- 
collect that it would be of no advantage to speak French like 
Voltaire, if you lived with people who are ignorant of the 
language. 

On Leads. 

The safest leads are, from sequences of three or more cards 

28 



PART I.] RULES AND MAXIMS FOR BEGINNERS. 

lead the highest, and put on the lowest to your partner's 
lead ; but the highest on your adversary's. With a tierce to 
the king and several others, begin with the knave. 

With ace, king, knave, and three small trumps, play out 
the ace and king — with only two the king, and wait for the 
finesse of the knave. In other suits, without great strength 
in trumps, or with the hopes of a particular point, do not 
wait fdr the finesse. 

Ace, king, and five others, lead the ace in all suits. With 
four or less, the lowest, if trumps. In other suits, always 
the ace, unless all the trumps remaining are with you *,nd 
your partner ; in this case a small one. 

Ace, queen, knave, &c, in all suits the ace. Ace, qu< en, 
ten, with others in trumps, a small one ; but if with tL/ee, 
unless very strong in trumps, lead the ace in other suits. 

Ace, knave, with small ones, lead the lowest in trumps ; 
in other suits, if with more than two, lead the ace, unless 
very strong in trumps. 

Ace, with four small ones, in trumps, lead the lowest. If 
with four or more in other suits, and not very strong in 
trumps, the ace. 

N- B. It is the general custom with ace and one other, to lead the aoi — 
this is right if you have reason to think it your partner's suit, otherv ise 
te'^d the small one. 

King, queen, ten, &c, in all suits, lead the king; but if it 
passes, do not pursue the lead, as certain the ace is in your 
partner's hand as it is often kept up, but change your lead, 
and wait for the return from your partner when you have the 
finesse of the ten, if necessary. 

King, queen, and five others, in all suits, the king. With 
four or less in trumps, lead the lowest. In other suits, always 
the king, unless you have the two only remaining trumps ; 
if so, you may play a small one. 

King, knave, ten, &c, in all suits, lead the ten. King, 
knave, and two or more small ones, the lowest. 

N. B. You should not lead from king, knave, and a small one, unles3 it 
is clearly your partner's suit, in which case, play off your king and knave. 

Queen, knave, nine, and others, lead the queen. Queen, 
knave, with one other, the queen. Queen, knave, with two 
more, the lowest. Queen, ten, and two others, the lowest 

4* 29 



WHIST ACCORDING TO MATHEWS. [PART 1 

Queen, and three small ones, the lowest. Queen, or knave, 
with only two, the queen, or knave. 

N. B. The trump card sometimes occasions a deviation from these rules. 
A has the ace or king, with a sequence from the ten downwards, of the 
suit of which his left-hand adversary turns up knave or queen. A should 
»ead the ten. If the knave or queen be put on, you have a finesse with the 
nine ; if not, your partner, with an honour, will pass it, and is either way 
advantageous. 

The following calculations are sufficient for a beginner ; 

deeper ones frequently puzzle even the proficient : — 

That either player has not one named card, not in your 

hand, is 2 to 1 

5 to 4 in favour of his having 1 of 2 

5 to 2 1 in 3 

4 to 1 1 in 4 

N. B. The odds are so considerable^ that no player nas two or more 
named cards, that scarce any situation justifies playing on this supposition, 
except the impossibility of saving or winning the game otherwise • of course 
further calculations are more for curiosity than utility. 

The odds of the game are calculated according to the 
points, and with the deal : 

1 love 10 to 9 

2 love 10 to 8 

and so on, except that 2 is considered as something worse 
than 8. It is 3 to 1 in favour of the first game. 

N. B. Notwithstanding that calculations are in general accurate, it is 
difficult to conceive that 10 in 20 is 3 to 1, while 5 in 10 is but 2 to 1, and 
even 6 in 10 is but 5 to 2. 1 am convinced whoever bets the 3 to 1, will 
lose on the long run ; and on the contrary, he who bets the 2 to 1, and 6 to 2, 
will gain in the same proportion. 

The odd trick has always been supposed in favour of the 
leader; but this is an error, as the dealer has the advantage 
in this, as in every other score. 



*£* It will be perceived that the Laws of the game are not 
given in the preceding pages; they will be found in Part II., 
according to Hoyle ; in Part III., according to Deschapelles j 
tnd in Part IV., according to the Editor. 
30 



PART THE SECOND. 

WHIST: FROM THE TEXT OF HOYLE. 

Though not the first writer on the game of Whist, Hoyle 
was undoubtedly the first of any authority. Long before he 
wrote, there existed certain rules for ordering its economy, as 
well as for playing it upon system. Like most other samples 
of " the good old times," Whist, as practised in the days of 
our forefathers, was no such shining light of the prisca fides. 
We take it up at an epoch in which the game must have 
attained a certain amount of respectability, namely, in the 
year 1734, when Richard Seymour, Esquire, published the 
fifth edition of his " Compleat Gamester, for the use of the 
Youug Princesses." If his record be true, which there is 
good reason to believe was the case, society in the reign of 
George the Second was by no means in a state of chivalry 
as to morals. He shall tell his own tale, and in his own 
fashion. 

Whist, vulgarly called " Whisk." 

" This is a very ancient game among us ; and is said to be 
the foundation of all the English games upon the cards. 

" Very few persons play correctly at it ; though there are 
many pretenders, who are the easiest to be made, and gene- 
rally are made, the greatest bubbles. 

" Considerable sums of money are played away at this 
game; which has put sharpers upon inventions to deceive 
and cheat unwary players, as will be showed in the sequel. 

" Formerly it was usual to deal four cards together ; but 
it is demonstrable there is no safety in that method ; but 
now the cards are dealt round one and one at a time, as the 
securest and best way. 

" In playing your cards, you must have recourse altogether 
to your own judgment; and though you have but mean cards 

31 



WHIST ACCORDING TO HOYLE. [rARf II. 

in your hand, yet you may (by observing the course of the 
cards) play them so suitable to those in your partner's hand, 
that he may either trump them or play the best of that suit 
on the board. 

" You ought to have a strict eye on what cards are played 
out, that you may know by that means either what to play, 
if you lead, or how to trump securely and advantageously, 
Renouncing, or not following suit when you have it in your 
hand, is very foul play; and he that doth it ought to forfeit 
one, or the game upon a game, and he that loseth dealing 
loseth one, or a trick, as you make it. 

" At ruff and honours, by some called slam, you have in the 
pack all the deuces, and the reason is, because four persons 
playing have dealt twelve a-piece, there are four left for the 
stock, the uppermost whereof is turned up, and that is trumps 
He who hath ace of trumps ruffs, that is, he takes in those 
four cards, and lays out four ; the four honours are the ace, 
king, queen, and knave ; he who hath three honours in hia 
hand, his partner not having the fourth, sets up eight by 
cards, that is, two tricks; if he hath all four, then sixteen, 
that is, four tricks. It is all one if the two partners make 
them three or four between them, as if one had them. If 
the honours are equally divided among tbe gamesters of each 
side, then they say honours are split. If either side are at 
eight groats, he hath the benefit of calling, Can ye ? If he 
hath two honours in his hand, and if the other answers one, 
the game is up, which is ten in all ; but if he hath more than 
two he shows them, which is the same thing; but if he for- 
gets to call, after playing a trick, he loseth the advantage of 
calling for that deal. 

" All cards are of value as they are superior one to another, 
as a ten wins a nine, if not trumps ; so a queen a knave in 
like manner; but the least trump will win the highest card 
of any other card : where note, the ace is the highest. 

" Some play at two-handed, or three-handed Whist. If 
three-handed, always two strive to suppress and keep down 
the rising man. They deal to each twelve a-piece, and the 
trump is the bottom card. The manner of crafty playing, 
the number of the game ten, honours and dignity of other 
cards are all alike ; and he that wins most tricks is most for- 
ward to win the set. 
32 



PART II. J FRAUDULENT MODES OP PLAYING. 

" He that can by craft overlook his adversary's game, hath 
a great advantage j for by that means he may partly know 
what to play securely ; or if he can have some petty glimpse 
of his partner's hand. There is a way by making some sign 
by the fingers, to discover to their partners what honours they 
have, or by the wink of one eye, it signifies one honour, 
shutting both eyes two ; placing three fingers or four on the 
table, three or four honours. For which reasons all nice 
gamesters play behind curtains. 

" Dealing the cards out by one and one round to each per- 
son, is the best method of putting it out of the dealer's 
power to impose on you. But we shall demonstrate that, 
deal the cards which way you will, a confederacy of two 
sharpers will beat any two persons in the world, though ever 
so good players, that are not of the gang, or in the secret ; 
and three poll one is as safe and secure as if the money was 
in their pockets. All which will appear presently. The first 
necessary instructions to be observed at Whisk, as principals 
of the secret, which may be likewise transferred to most other 
games at cards, are 

Breef Cards. 
Corner-bend. 
Middle-bend (or Kingston-bridge). 

" Of breef cards there are two sorts : one is a card longer 
than the rest ; the other is a card broader than the rest. 

" The long sort are such as three, four, five, six, seven, 
eight, and nine ; the broad sort are such as aces, kings, queens, 
and knaves. The use and advantage of each are as follows. 

- Example. 

" When you cut the cards to your adversary, cut them long 
or end-ways, and he will have a three, four, five, six, seven, 
eight, or nine at bottom. When your adversary cuts the 
cards to you, put them broadside to him, and he will naturally 
cut (without ever suspecting what you do) ace, king, queen, 
or knave, &c, which is sufficient advantage to secure any 
game. It is a fine manner, especially in the old bet that the 
dealer does not score two that deal, since shuffling is of no 
signification here. And in case you cannot get cards of the 
proper sizes ready made to mix with others, you may shave 
them with a razor or penknife from the threes to the nines 

, 33 



WHIST ACCORDING TO HOYLE. [PART II. 

each side, and from the aces to the knave each end ; then put 
them up in the same case or cover, and if they are done as 
they ought to be, they will pass upon anybody. As Whisk is 
a tavern game, the sharpers generally take care to put about 
the bottle before the game begins, so quick that a bubble 
cannot be said to see clearly even when he first begins to play. 

" The next is the corner-bend, which is four cards turned 
down finely at one corner, a signal to cut by. 

"The other is vulgarly called Kingston-bridge, or the mid- 
dle-bend : it is done by bending your own or adversary's 
tricks two different ways, which will cause an opening or arch 
in the middle, which is of the same use and service as the 
other two ways, and only practised in its turn to amuse you. 

" After a deal or two is formally played, A and B will 
begin to operate in the following manner : 

" When A or B are to deal, they observe (the preceding 
deal) to take up the tricks thus : 

1. A bad card. 2. A good card. 

3. A bad card. 4. A good card. 

[Meaning the best and worst that fall in that lift.] 

" When C or D deals, they must be taken up thus : 
1. A good card. 2. A bad card. 

3. A good card. 4. A bad card. 

" By this rule it is very plain that the best cards fall to A 
and B every deal. How is it possible, therefore, that C and 
D should ever win a game without permission ? But it would 
be deemed ill policy, and contrary to the true interest of A 
and B, to act thus every deal : I will therefore suppose it is 
practised just when they please, according as bets happen in 
company; though the rule with gamesters, in low life, is at 
the first setting out to stupefy you with wine and the loss of 
your money, that you may never come to a perfect under- 
standing of what you are doing. It may be truly said, that 
many an honest gentleman has been kept a month in such a 
condition by the management and contrivance of a set of 
sharpers. 

" Now you may imagine it not in the power of A and B to 
cause the tricks to be taken up after the manner aforesaid ; 
but there is nothing so easy or so frequently practised, espe- 
cially at three poll one ; for in playing the cards, the con- 
federates will not only take care of their own tricks, but also 
34 



PART II.] FRAUDULENT MODES OP PLAYING. 

of yours ; for the cards may be so played and shoved togetht* 
in such a manner, as will even cause you to take them right 
yourself; and if a trick should lie untowardly upon the 
table, A or B will pay you the compliment of taking it up 
for you, and say, Sir, that's yours. 

" This operation will the more readily be apprehended by 
seeing it practised half a score times ; when once you are 
aware of it, it will otherwise (I may safely say) pass upon any 
person that has not been let into the secret. This being 
allowed, the next point and difficulty is to shuffle and cut. 

M I say, that either A or B are such curious workmen, and 
can make a sham shuffle with a pack of cards so artfully, that 
you would believe they were splitting them, when at the 
same time they will not displace a single card from its order. 

" Now to cut the cards, a bend is prepared for you to cut 
to ; the middle is best, and it is udds but you unwarily cut to 
it ; if not, Slip is the word ; but if you have no opportunity 
to do that neither, then deal away at all hazards, it is but an 
equal bet that they come in your favour ; if right, proceed ; 
if otherwise, miss a card in its course, and it brings the cards 
according to your first design ; it is but giving two at last 
where you missed ; and if that cannot be conveniently done, 
you only lose the deal, and there is an end of it. 

" But when A or B are to cut, they make it all safe ; for 
then they make the corner-bend, which any one that ltpow» 
may cut to, a hundred times together. 

Piping at Whisk. 

" By piping I mean, when one of the company that does no/ 
play (which frequently happens) sits down in a convenient 
place to smoke a pipe, and so look on, pretending to amuse 
himself that way. Now the disposing of his fingers on the 
pipe, whilst smoking, discovers the principal cards that are in 
the person's hand he overlooks ; which was always esteemed 
a sufficient advantage to win a game by another way, viz., 
Indeed, signifies diamonds ; Truly, hearts ; Upon my word, 
clubs ; I assure you, spades : but as soon as these methods 
become known new ones are invented ; and it is most certain 
that two persons may discover to each other what sort of 
cards they have in hand, and which ought to be first played, 
many different ways, without speaking a word. Talking 

85 



WHIST ACCORDING TO HOYLE. [PART U. 

is not allowed at Whist : the very word implies, Hold jour 
tongue." 

Mr. Seymour's whole book indeed indicates a very truculent 
social condition at the date of its indicting. "The games," he 
says, M are always precarious, and betting money that i 
thought to be like licking honey off thorns. ... I have been 
told of one of these sharpers who caused a box to be made, 
not as they are usually, screwed within, but smooth, and 
procured it to be so well painted and shadowed within, that 
it looked like a screwed box; now this box was but half 
board, wide at the top and narrow at the bottom, that the 
dice might stick, and the box being smooth, would come out 
without tumbling. With this box he went and played at 
Inn and Inn,* by virtue whereof, and his art of taking up and 
throwing his dice into the box, he got the first night £1000, 
and the next night £200 a year, with a coach and six horses, 
and enjoys the estate to this day with great improvements, 
and never would handle a dice since, well knowing how many 
worthy families it hath ruined." -cover we read, as no 

doubt "the young princesses" read also, how that at the 
" Game of Xazarene," the knave of clubs is called Knave- 
Knocker, and he that hath it challengeth two a piece. If 
women play among men, it is customary for Knave-Knocker 
to kiss Queen Xazarene, a practice that would extend of 
course to a royal lady of any kith or country. 

In 1743, was published, as we have already said, the 
treatise ascribed to Hoyie, the great father of the game. It 
saw the light when obviously it was much needed. Public 

be seems just then to have taken up Whist as a necessary 
accomplishment, for persons of condition. There is the fol- 
lowing passage in " A Lady's Letter," in the " Rambler," 
of May 8, 1750 : " Papa made me drudge at whist till I was 
tired of it ; and Mr. Hoyle, when he had not given me above 
forty lessons, said I was one of his best scholars." The 
anonymous "Treatise" may however be spared quotation 
beyond the advertisement, a curious document, helping us to 
a view of the period, in relation to such matters as came 
within compass of its observation. 

" As some people in particular may be anxious to know, 

• This was one of those gambling contrivances, known in those dayt 
as ** Games without the . Hazard belonged to this class. 

36 



PART n.] FRAUDULENT MODES OF PLAYING. 

and the public in general may be glad to be informed, by 
what means the following Treatise came to be ushered into 
the world in this manner, we think they cannot be better 
satisfied on this head, than by making public the following 
letter from a gentleman at Bath to a friend of his, and hope 
they will not take it amiss if the gentleman's name is con- 
cealed, since we are not at liberty to publish it. 

'< < Dear Sir, 

" ' In an age where the ignorant and the unwary, as well as 
the plain downright honest man of sense, are so exposed to the 
tricks of sharpers of all denominations, from the counter up 
to the most sacred and respectable offices and institutions, I 
thought it would be doing no inconsiderable service to many 
of my countrymen, If I contributed a little to put them upon 
their guard and preserve their purses, while they are indulg- 
ing themselves in what is elegantly called killing time. It 
were indeed to be wished that less time was killed in the 
manner which has put me upon this undertaking, but as the 
itch of gaming is likely to prevail as long as we preserve any- 
thing of what is now-a-days called polite taste; and as it 
seems to be an almost necessary evil, which keeps people of a 
certain disposition from employing their time worse, so I 
hope I shall deserve the thanks of a great many, for having 
been instrumental in rescuing them from the snares which 
they are but too frequently caught in, by being over-matched 
in these sorts of amusements. 

" ' 1 myself, as you very well know, am one of those unfor- 
tunate beings, that being possessed of a pretty handsome 
fortune, and having a great deal of idle time upon their 
hands, constantly spend a little portion of it in gaming. 
The game of Whist is that which I take most delight in, and 
till of late, fancied myself all along a pretty good master of it. 
But to my vexation, it is not long since I lost a considerable 
sum of money one night at it, and yet I could not perceive 
that the cards run extraordinary cross against me ; so that I 
could not but conclude I was beat by superior skill. Thia 
put me upon inquiring into the cause, for I was very far from 
imputing my misfortune to unfair play ; and at last I found 
that there was a treatise on the game of Whist lately dis- 
persed among a few hands at a guinea price. How to come 

6 87 



WHIST ACCORDING TO HOYLE [PART II. 

at one of these books I know not; but at length I wrote to 
an acquaintance of mine in London to purchase it for me by 
all means, which he accordingly did, with no small difficulty. 
As soon as I had perused it, I found I had heretofore been 
but a bungler at this game, and being thoroughly sensible of 
the advantage which those that are possessed of this book 
have over the innocent player, I thought I could not oblige 
my friends better than by printing a few of them to make 
presents of. Accordingly I applied to a stationer, who 
offered to make me a present of half a hundred of them, 
provided I would allow him to print a few more for his own 
use. This I readily complied with, especially in conside- 
ration of the imposition and hardship the public lay under ; 
first, by not being able to get the said book under a guinea, 
and then by its being reserved only in a few hands, that 
might make a bad use of it ; for though a man of superior 
skill in these amusements, that takes an advantage of an 
ignorant player, cannot according to the common accepta- 
tion of the word, be deemed a sharper, yet, when he pursues 
that advantage, after he has found out the weakness of his 
antagonist, it must be confessed that if he is not a sharper, 
he is at least very near akin to one. 

u l Thus much I have thought fit to acquaint you with, in 
regard to my conduct in this affair, which I hope will receive 
the commendations of every honest well-meaning man and 
fair gamester, and your's in particular, which is the greatest 
ambition of your sincere friend, and humble servant/ " 

We now come to deal with Hoyle in propria persona, the 
professor who took up an art which society had adopted, with 
all the enthusiasm that fancies it has discovered a specific 
against eunui. He rose a benefactor of his race. Poetry 
never sung of patience so tried as it has been, and ever will 
be, at the Whist table 

" Sir, I protest, were Job himself at play, 
He'd rave to see you throw your cards away : 
Not that I care a button, not a pin, 
For what I lose — but we have cards to win. 

We start with Hoyle at the commencement of the present 
88 



PART. II.] HOYLE'S RULES AND MAXIMS. 

century, when the game had assumed most of its principles. 
A century before, it differed essentially in several respects 
from the fundamental rules now established, and fifty years 
ago, recognized. For instance in Swift's time, it went 
generally by the double title of "Whist" and "Swabbers/' 
These " swabbers" were certain cards, the possession of which 
entitled the holders to a part of the stakes ; in the same way 
that now a claim is made for the aces at quadrille. In like 
manner, there was no bar to counting honours, they reckoned 
at nine, as well as at any other score. It is not clear when 
the existing custom of their not counting after eight first 
obtained. M. Deschapelles calls it " a fashionable embel- 
lishment." His observations, always most pertinent, will be 
read with much interest, on this and many other modern 
innovations. Our text of Hoyle has been carefully collated 
with the different editions, some of which are faulty. We 
omit for the present the mise en scene, which will be minutely 
detailed in Part the Third. 

HOYLE'S GENERAL RULES FOR BEGINNERS. 

When you lead, begin with the best suit in your hand ; if 
you have a sequence of king, queen, and knave, or queen, 
knave, and ten, they are sure leads, and gain the tenace to 
yourself and your partner in other suits. Begin with the 
highest of a sequence, unless you have five in number ; in 
that case play the lowest (except in trumps, when you must 
always play the highest) in order to get the ace or king out 
of your partner's or adversary's hand, to make room for your 
strong suit. 

If you have five of the smallest trumps, and not one good 
card in the other suits, trump out, which will make your 
partner the last player, and by that means give him the 
tenace. 

If two small trumps only, with ace and king of two other 
suits, and a deficiency of the fourth suit, make as many tricks 
as you can immediately ; and if your partner refuses either 
of your suits, do not force him, because that may weaken his 
game too much. 

You need seldom return your partner's lead immediately, 
if you have good suits of your own to play, unless it be to 

39 



WHIST ACCORDING TO IIOYLE. [PART II. 

endeavour to save or win a game ; what is meant by good 
suits is, sequences of king, queen, and knave, or queen, 
knave, and ten. 

If you have each five tricks, and you are assured of getting 
two tricks in your own hand, win them, in expectation of 
scoring two that deal ; because if you lose the odd trick, it 
makes two difference, and you play two to one against your- 
self. 

An exception to the foregoing rule is, when you see a pro- 
bability either of saving your lurch or winning the game ; in 
either of which cases risk the odd trick. 

When you have a probability of winning the game, always 
risk a trick or two, because the share of the stake, which 
your adversary has by a new deal, will amount to more than 
the point or two which you risk. 

If your adversary is six or seven love, and you are to lead, 
in that case risk a trick or two, in hopes of putting the game 
upon an equality ; therefore, admitting you have the queen 
or knave, and one other trump, and no good cards in other 
suits, play out your queen or knave of trumps ; by which 
means you will strengthen your partner's game, if he is 
strong in trumps ; if weak, you do him no injury. 

If you are four of the game, play for an odd trick, be- 
cause it saves one-half of the stake ; and in order to win the 
odd trick, though you are pretty strong in trumps, be cau- 
tious how you trump out. What is meant by strength in 
trumps, is, 1 honour and 3 trumps. 

If you are nine of the game, and though very strong in 
trumps, yet if you observe your partner to have a chance of 
trumping any of your adversary's suits; then do not trump 
out, but give him an opportunity of trumping those suits. 
If your game is scored one, two, or three, you must play the 
reverse ; and also five, six, or seven ; because in these two 
last recited cases, you play for more than one point. 

If you are last player, and find that the third hand cannot 
put on a good card to his partner's lead, admitting you have 
no good game of your own to play, return the lead upon the 
adversary; which gives your partner the tenace in that suit, 
and often obliges the adversary to change suits, and conse- 
quently gives the tenace in that new suit also. 

If you have ace, king, and four small trumps, begin with a 
40 



PART II.] HOYLE'S RULES AND MAXIMS. 

email one ; because it is an equal wager that your partner haa 
a better trump than the last player; if so, you have three 
rounds of trumps ; if not, you cannot fetch out all the trumps. 

If ace, king, knave, and three small trumps, begin with the 
king, and then play the ace, (except one of the adversaries 
refuses trumps,) because the odds are in your favour that the 
queen falls. 

If king, queen, and four small trumps, begin with a small 
one, because the odds are on your side that your partner has 
an honour. 

If king, queen, ten, and three small trumps, begin with the 
king, because you have a fair chance that the knave falls in 
the second round, or you may finesse your ten upon the re- 
turn of trumps from your partner. 

If queen, knave, and four small trumps, begin with a small 
one, because the odds are in your favour that your partner 
has an honour. 

If queen, knave, nine, and three small trumps, begin with 
the queen, because you have a fair chance that the ten falls 
in the second round ; or you may wait to finesse the nine. 

If knave, ten, and four small trumps, begin with a small one. 

If knave, ten, eight, and three small trumps, begin with 
the knave, in order to prevent the nine from making a trick ; 
and the odds are in your favour that the other three honours 
fall in two rounds. 

If six trumps of a lower denomination, begin with the 
lowest, unless you should have ten, nine, and eight, and an 
honour turns up against you j in that case, if you are to play 
through the honour, begin with the ten, which obliges the 
adversary to play his honour to his disadvantage, or leave it 
in your partner's option, whether he will pass it or not. 

If ace, king, and three small trumps, begin with a small one. 

If ace, king, and knave, and two small trumps, begin with 
the king, which, next to a moral certainty, informs your 
partner that you have ace and knave remaining ; and by put- 
ting the lead into your partner's hand, he plays you a trump 
upon which you are to finesse the knave, and no ill conse- 
quence can attend such play, except the queen lies behind 
you single. 

If king, queen, and three small trumps, begin with a small 
one. 

5* 41 



WHIST ACCORDING TO HOYLE. [PART II. 

If the queen, knave, and three small trumps, begin with a 
6mall one. 

If queen, knave, nine, and two small trumps, begin with 
the queen. 

If knave, ten, and three small trumps, begin with a small 
one. 

If knave, ten, eight, and two small trumps, begin with the 
knave, because in two rounds of trumps it is odds but that 
the nine falls ; or upon the return of trumps from your part- 
ner, you may finesse the eight. 

If five trumps of a lower denomination, it is the best play 
to begin with the lowest, unless you have a sequence of ten, 
nine, and eight; in that case begin with the highest of the 
sequence. 

If ace, king, and two small trumps, begin with a small one 

If ace, king, knave, and one small trump, begin with the 
king. 

If king, queen, and two small trumps, begin with a small 
one. 

If king, queen, ten, and one small trump, begin with the 
king, and wait for the return of trumps from your partner, 
when finesse your ten, in order to win the knave. 

If queen, knave, nine, and one small trump, begin with the 
queen, in order to prevent the ten from making a trick. 

If knave, ten, and two small trumps, begin with a small one. 

If knave, ten, eight, and one small trump, begin with the 
knave, in order to prevent the nine from making a trick. 

If ten, nine, eight, and one small trump, begin with the 
ten, which leaves it in your partner's discretion whether he 
will pass it or not. 

If ten, and three small trumps, begin with a small one. 

SOME PARTICULAR RULES. 

If you have ace, king, and four small trumps, with good 
suit, play three rounds of trumps, otherwise you may have 
your strong suit trumped. 

If king, queen, and four small trumps, with a good suit, 
trump out with the king, because when you have the lead 
again, you will have three rounds of trumps. 

If king, queen, ten, and two small trumps, begin with the 
king. 
42 



PART II.] EXAMPLES OP PARTICULAR GAMES. 

If king, queen, ten, and three small trumps, with a good 
suit, trump out with the king, in expectation of the knave's 
falling at the second round ; and do not wait to finesse the 
ten, for fear your strong suit should be trumped. 

If queen, knave, and three small trumps, with a good suit, 
trump out with a small one. 

If queen, knave, nine, and two small trumps, with a good 
suit, trump out with the queen, in expectation of the ten 
falling at the second round; and do not wait to finesse the 
nine, but trump out a second time, for the reason assigned 
above. 

If knave, ten, and three small trumps, with a good suit, 
trump out with a small one. 

If knave, ten, eight, and two small trumps, with a good 
suit, trump out with the knave, in expectation of the nine 
falling at the second round. 

If ten, nine, eight, and one small trump, with a good suit, 
trump out with the ten. 

PARTICULAR GAMES. 

Suppose you are elder hand, and that your game consist of 
king, queen, and knave of one suit; ace, king, queen, and 
two small cards of another suit ; king and queen of the third 
rait, and three small trumps. You are to begin with the ace 
)f your best suit (or a trump) which informs your partner 
that you have the command of that suit ; but you are not to 
proceed with the king of the same suit, but play a trump 
next ; and if you find your partner has no strength to support 
you in trumps, and that your adversary plays to your weak 
suit, viz. the king and queen only, in that case, play the king 
of the best suit : and if you observe a probability of either 
your adversaries being likely to trump that suit, proceed then 
and play the king of the suit of which you have king, queen, 
and knave. If it should so happen that your adversaries do 
not play to your weakest suit, in that case, though apparently 
your partner can give you no assistance in trumps, pursue 
your scheme of trumping out as often as the lead comes into 
rour hand ; by which means, supposing your partner to have 
out two trumps, and that your adversaries have four each, by 
three rounds of trumps, there remain only two trumps against 
you. 

43 



WHIST ACCORDING TO HOYLE. [PABT H 



ELDER HAND. 

Suppose you have ace, king, queen, and one small trump, 
with a sequence from the king of five in another suit, with 
four other cards of no value. Begin with the queen of 
trumps, and pursue the lead with the ace, which demonstrates 
to your partner that you have the king : and as it would be 
bad play to pursue trumps the third round, till you have first 
gained the command of your great suit, by stopping thus, it 
likewise informs your partner that you have the king, and 
one trump only remaining ; because if you had ace, king, 
queen, and two trumps more, and trumps went round twice, 
you could receive no damage by playing the king the third 
round. When you lead sequence, begin with the low 
because if your partner has the ace he plays it, which makes 
room for your suit. And since you have let your partner 
into the state of your game, as soon as he has the lead, if he 
has a trump or two remaining, he will play trumps to you, 
with a moral certainty that your king clears your adversaries' 
hands of all then trumps. 

SECOND PLATER. 

Suppose you have ace, king, and two small trumps, with a 
quint-major of another suit ; in the third suit you have three 
small cards, and in the fourth suit one. Your adversary on 
your right hand begins with playing the ace of your weak 
suit, and then proceeds to play the king : in that case do not 
trump it, but throw away a losing card ; and if he proceeds to 
play the queen, throw away another losing card ; and do the 
like the fourth time, in hopes your partner may trump it. who 
will in that case play a trump, or will play to your strong 
suit. If trumps are played, go on with them two rounds, 
and then proceed to play your strong suit ; by which means, 
if there happens to be four trumps in one of your adversaries' 
hands, and two in the other, which is nearly the case, your 
partner being entitled to have three trumps out of the nine ; 
your strong suit forces their best trumps, and yon have a 
probability of making the odd trick in your own hand only ; 
whereas if you had trumped one of your adversaries' best 
cards, you had so weakened your hand as probably not to 
make more than five tricks, without your partner's help. 
44 






PAST II.J EXAMPLES OP PARTICULAR GAMES. 

Suppose you have ace, queen, and three small trumps ; ace, 
queen, ten, and nine of another suit ; with two small cards of 
each of the other suits : your partner leads to your ace, queen, 
ten, and nine ; and as this game requires rather to deceive 
your adversaries, than to inform your partner, put up the 
nine, which naturally leads the adversary to play trumps if he 
wins that card. As soon as trumps are played to you, return 
thorn to your adversary, keeping the command in your own 
hand. If your adversary, who led trumps to you, puts out 
a trump which your partner cannot win, if he has no good 
suit of his own to play, he will return your partner's lead 
imagining that suit lies between his partner and your's : if 
this finesse of yours should succeed, you will be a great gainer 
by it, but scarcely possible to be a loser. 

Suppose you have ace, king, and three small trumps, with 
a quart from a king, and two small cards of another suit, and 
one small card to each of the other suits ; your adversary 
leads a suit of which your partner has a quart-major; your 
partner puts up the knave, and then proceeds to play the ace ; 
you refuse to that suit by playing your loose card ; when your 
partner plays the king, your right hand adversary trumps it. 
Suppose with the knave or ten, do not overtrump him, which 
may probably lose you two or three tricks by weakening your 
hand : but if he leads to the suit of which you have none, 
trump it, and then play the lowest of your sequence, in order 
to get the ace either out of your partner's or adversary's 
hand; which accomplished, as soon as you get the lead, play 
two rounds of trumps, and then proceed to play your strong 
suit. Instead of your adversary playing to your weak suit, 
if he should play trumps, do you go on with the two rounds, 
and then proceed to get the command of your strong suit. 

GAMES TO BE PLAYED, WITII CERTAIN OBSERVATIONS, 
WHEREBY YOU ARE ASSURED THAT YOUR PARTNER HAS 
NO MORE OF THE SUIT PLAYED EITHER BY YOURSELF 
OR HIM. 

Suppose you lead from queen, ten, nine, and two small 
cards of any suit, the second hand puts on the knave, your 
partner plays the eight : in this case, you having queen, ten, 
and nine, it is a demonstration, that he can have no more of 
that suit. Therefore you may then play your game accord- 

45 



WHIST ACCORDING TO HOYLE. [PART 

ingly, either by forcing him to trump that suit, if you are 
strong in trumps, or by playing some other suit. 

Suppose you have king, queen, and ten of a suit, and you 
lead your king, your partner plays the knave, this demon- 
strates he has no more of that suit. 

Suppose you have king, queen, and many more of a suit, 
and you begin with the king, in some cases it is good play in 
a partner, when he has the ace, and one small card in that 
suit only, to win his partner's king with his ace ; for suppose 
he is very strong in trumps, by taking his partner's king with 
the ace, he trumps out, and after he has cleared the board of 
trumps returns his partner's lead; and having parted with 
the ace of that suit, has made room for his partner to make 
that whole suit, which possibly could not have been done if 
he had kept the command in his hand. 

And supposing his partner has no other good card besides 
that suit, he loses nothing by the ace taking of his king ; but 
if it should so happen that he has a good card to bring in that 
suit, he gains all the tricks which he makes in that suit, by 
this method of play. And as your partner has taken your 
king with the ace, and trumps out upon it, you have reason 
to judge he has one of that suit, to return you; therefore do 
not throw away any of that suit, even to keep a king or queen 
guarded. 

PARTICULAR GAMES, BOTH TO ENDEAVOUR TO DECEIVE AND 
DISTRESS TOUR ADVERSARIES, AND TO DEMONSTRATE 
YOUR GAME TO YOUR PAUTNER. 

Suppose I play the ace of a suit of which I have king, and 
tnree small ones ; the last player does not choose to trump it, 
having none of the suit ; if I am not strong enough in trumps, 
I must not play out the king, but keep the command of that 
suit in my hand by playing a small one, in order to weaken 
his game. 

If a suit is led, of which I have none, and a moral cer- 
tainty that my partner has not the best of that suit, in order 
to deceive the adversary, I throw away my strong suit ; but 
to clear up doubts to my partner when he has the lead, I 
throw away my weak suit. This method of play will gene- 
rally succeed, unless against very good players; and even 
with them, you will oftener gain than lose by this method. 
46 



PART n.] EXAMPLES OP PARTICULAR GAMES. 

PARTICULAR GAMES TO BE PLAYED, BY WHICH YOU RUN 
THE RISK OP LOSING ONE TRICK ONLY TO GAIN THREE. 

Suppose clubs to be trumps, a heart is played by your 
adversary; your partner having none of that suit, throws 
away a spade ; you are then to judge his hand is composed 
of trumps and diamonds; and suppose you win that trick, 
and being too weak in trumps, you dare not force him ; and 
suppose you shall have king, knave and one small diamond ; 
and further, suppose your partner to have queen, and five 
diamonds ; in that case, by throwing out your king in your 
first lead, and your knave in your second, your partner and 
you may win five tricks in that suit ; whereas if you had led 
a small diamond, and your partner's queen having been won 
with the ace, the king and knave remaining in your hand 
obstructs the suit : and though he may have che long trump, 
yet by playing a small diamond, and his long trump having 
been forced out of his hand, you lose by this method of 
play three tricks in that deal. 

Suppose, in the like case of the former, you should have 
queen, ten, and one small card in your partner's strong suit ; 
which is to be discovered by the former example ; and sup- 
pose your partner to have knave and five small cards in his 
strong suit ; you having the lead are to play your queen, and 
when you play again, you are to play your ten ; and suppose 
him to have the long trump, by this method he makes four 
tricks in that suit; but should you play a small one in that 
suit, his knave being gone, and the queen remaining in your 
hand in the second round of playing that suit, and the long 
trump being forced out of his hand, the queen remaining in 
your hand obstructs the suit, by which method of play you 
lose three tricks in that deal. 

In the former examples you have been supposed to have 
had the lead, and by that means have had an opportunity of 
throwing out the best cards in your hand of your partner's 
strong suit, in order to make room for the whole suit : we 
will now suppose your partner is to lead, and in the course of 
play, it appears to you that your partner has one great suit ; 
suppose ace, king, and four small ones, and that you have 
queen, ten, nine, and a very small one of that suit ; when 
your partner plays the ace, you are to play the nine ; when 
he plays the king, you are to play the ten ; by which means 

47 



WHIST ACCORDING TO HOYLE. [PART It 

you see, in the third round, you make your queen, and having 
a small one remaining, you do not obstruct your partner's 
great suit ; whereas if you had kept your queen and ten, and 
the knave had fallen from the adversaries, you had lost two 
tricks in that deal. 

Suppose in the course of play, as in the former case, you 
find your partner to have one great suit, and that you have 
king, ten, and a small one of the same ; your partner leads 
the ace ; in that case play your ten, and in the second your 
king : this method is to prevent a possibility of obstructing 
your partner's great suit. 

Suppose your partner has ace, king, and four small cards in 
his great suit, and that you have queen, ten, and a small 
card, in that suit ; when he plays his ace, do you play your 
ten, and when he plays his king, you play your queen ; by 
which method of play you only risk one trick to get four. 

Now suppose you have five cards of your partner's strong 
suit ; viz. queen, ten, nine, eight, and a small one ; and that 
your partner has ace, king, and four small ones j when your 
partner plays the ace, do you play your eight ; when he plays 
the king, do you play your nine ; and in the third round, 
nobody having any of that suit, except your partner and you, 
proceed then to play the queen, and then the ten ; and hav- 
ing a small one remaining, and your partner two, you thereby 
gain a trick.* 

PARTICULAR GAMES TO BE PLAYED WHEN EITHER OF YOUR 
ADVERSARIES TURNS UP AX HONOUR. 

Suppose the knave is turned up on your right-hand, and 
that you have king, queen, and ten ; in order to win the 
knave, begin to play with your king ; by which method of 
play, your partner may suppose you to have a queen and ten 
remaining, especially if you have a second lead, and that you 
do not proceed to your queen. 

The knave being turned up as before, and that you have 
ace, queen, and ten, by playing your queen, it answers the 
like purpose of the former rule. 

If the queen is turned up on your right-hand, and that you 
have ace, king, and knave, by playing your king it answers 
the like purpose of the former rule. 

* These directions imply that the trumps are out 

43 



PART II.] EXAMPLES OP PARTICULAR GAMES. 

Suppose an honour is turned up on your left-hand, and you 
hold no honour, in that case you are to play trumps through 
that honour ; but in ease you should hold an honour, (except 
the ace) you must be cautious how you play trumps, because 
in case your partner holds no honour, your adversary will 
play your own game upon you. 



A CASE TO DEMONSTRATE THE DANGER OF FORCING YOUR 

PARTNER. 

Suppose A and B partners, and that A has a quint-ma^or 
in trumps, with a quint-major, and three small car4s of 
another suit, and that A has the lead ; and let us suppose the 
adversaries C and D to have only five trumps in either hand; 
in this case, A having the lead, wins every trick. ^ 

Suppose, on the contrary, C has five small trumps with a 
quint-major and three small cards of another suit, and that C 
has the lead, who forces A to trump first, by which means A 
wins only five tricks. ". 

A CASE TO DEMONSTRATE THE ADVANTAGE BY A SAW. 

Suppose A and B partners, and that A has a quart-major 
in clubs, they being trumps, another quart-major in hearts, 
another quart-major in diamonds, and the ace of shades. 
And let us suppose the adversaries C and D to have the fol- 
lowing cards : viz. G has four trumps, eight hearts, and one 
spade ; D has five trumps and eight diamonds ; C being to 
lead, plays an heart, I) trumps it ; D plays a diamond, C 
trumps it, and thus pursuing the saw, each partner trumps a 
quart-major of A's, and C being to play at the ninth trick, 
plays a spade, which D trumps ; thus and J) have won 
the nine first tricks, and leave A with his quart-major in 
trumps only. c> 

Whenever you can establish a saw ; it is your interest to 
embrace it. 

VARIETY OF CASES, INTERMIXED WITH CALCULATIONS, 
DEMONSTRATING WHEN IT IS PROPER, AT SECOND HAND, 
TO PUT UP THE KING, QUEEN, KNAVE, OR TEN, WITH 
ONE SMALL CARD OF ANY SUIT, &C. 

Suppose you have four small trumps, in the three other suiU 

6 49 






WHIST ACCORDING TO HOYLE. PART II.] 

yon have one trick secure in each of them : and suppose yom 
partner has no trump, in that case the remaining nine trumps 
must be divided between your adversaries; suppose five in 
one hand, and four in the other ; as often as you have the 
lead, play trumps : and suppose you should have four leads, 
in that case, your adversaries make only five tricks out of nine 
trumps; whereas if you had suffered them to make their 
trumps single, they might possibly have made nine. 

This example shows the necessity of taking out two trumps 
for one upon most occasions. 

There is an exception to the foregoing rule ; if you find in 
the course of play, that your adversaries are very strong in 
any particular suit, and that your partner can give you no 
assistance in that suit, in such a case you are to examine 
your own, and also your adversaries' scores; because by 
keeping one trump in your hand to trump such suit, it may 
be either a means to save or win a game. 

Suppose you have ace, queen, and two small cards of any 
suit, your right-hand adversary leads that suit ; in that case, 
do not put on your queen, because it is an equal wager that 
your partner has a better card in that suit than the third 
hand ; if so, you have the command of that suit. 

An exception to the foregoing rule is, in case you want the 
lead, then you are to play your queen. 

Never choose to lead from king, knave, and one small card 
in any suit, because it is two to one that your partner has not 
the ace, and also thirty-two to twenty-five, or about five to 
four, that he has ace or queen ; and therefore, as you have 
only about five to four in your favour, and as you must have 
four cards in some other suit, suppose the ten to be the 
highest, lead that suit, because it is an equal wager that your 
partner has a better card in that suit than the last player ; 
and if the ace of the first mentioned suit lies behind you, 
which is an equal wager it should so happen, in case your 
partner has it not ; in this case, on your adversaries lead- 
ing this suit, you probably make two tricks in it by this 
method of play. 

Suppose in the course of play it appears to you that your 

partner and you have four or five trumps remaining, when 

your adversaries have none, and that you have no winning 

card in your hand, but that you have reason to judge that 

50 



PART II.] EXAMPLES OF PARTICULAR GAMES. 

your partner has a thirteenth card or some other winning 
card in his hand ; in that case play a small trump, to give 
him the lead, in order to throw away any losing card in your 
hand, upon such thirteenth or other good card. 

SOME DIRECTIONS FOR PUTTING UP AT SECOND HAND, KING, 
QUEEN, KNAVE, OR TEN OF ANY SUIT, &C. 

Suppose you have the king, and one small card of any suit, 
and that your right-hand adversary plays that suit; if he is a 
good player, do not put up the king, unless you want the 
lead, because a good player seldom leads from a suit of 
which he has the ace, but keeps it in his hand to bring in his 
strong suit after the trumps are played out. 

Suppose you have a queen, and one small card, of any suit, 
and that your right-hand adversary leads that suit ; do not 
nut on your queen, because, suppose the adversary has led 
from the ace and knave, in that case, upon the return of that 
suit, your adversary finesses the knave, which is generally 
£Ood play, especially if his partner has played the king, you 
thereby make your queen ; but by putting on the queen, it 
shows your adversary that you have no strength in that suit, 
and consequently puts him upon finessing upon your partner 
throughout that whole suit. 

In the former examples you have heen informed when it is 
thought proper to put up the king or queen at second hand ; 
likewise observe, in case you should have the knave or ten of 
any suit, with a small card of the same, it is generally bad 
play to put up either of them at second hand, because it is 
five to two that the third hand has either ace, king, or queen, 
of the suit led ; it therefore follows, that as the odds against 
you are five to two, and though you should succeed sometimes 
by this method of play, yet in the main you must be a loser ; 
because it demonstrates to your adversaries, that you are 
weak in that suit, and consequently they finesse upon your 
partner throughout that whole suit. 

Suppose you have ace, king, and three small cards of any 
suit that your right-hand adversary leads ; upon which you 
play your ace, and your partner the knave. In case you are 
strong in trumps, return a small one in that suit, in order to 
let your partner trump : and this consequence attends such 
play, viz. you keep the command of that suit in your own 

51 



WHIST ACCORDING TO HOYLE. [PART U 

hand, and at the same time it gives your partner an intima- 
tion that you are strong in trumps; and, therefore, he may 
play his game accordingly, either in attempting to establish a 
saw, or by crumping out to you, if he has either strength in 
truinps, or the command of the other suits. 

Suppose A and B's game is scored six, the adversaries 
and D is scored 7, and that nine rounds are played out, of 
which A and B have won seven tricks, and suppose no 
honours are reckoned in that deal ; in this case A and B have 
won the odd trick, which puts their game upon an equality ; 
and suppose A to have the lead, and that A has two of the 
smallest trumps remaining with two winning cards of other 
suits : and suppose C and D have the two best trumps between 
them, with two other winning cards in their hands. It is 
eleven to three that C has not the two trumps ; and likewise 
eleven to three that D has them not ; the odds being so much 
in A's favour to win the whole stake, it is his interest to 
play a trump ; for suppose the stake to be £70 depending, 
A and B win the whole, if he succeeds by this method ; but, 
on the contrary, should he play the close game, by forcing C 
or D to trump first, he having won the odd trick already, and 
being sure of winning two more in his own hand. By this 
method his game will be scored nine to seven, which is about 
three to two, and, therefore, A's share of the £70 will amount 
only to £42, and A only secures £7 profit ; but in the other 
case, upon supposition that A and B have eleven to three of 
the stake depending, as aforesaid, A, by playing his trump, 
is entitled to £35 out of the £70 depending. 

The foregoing case being duly attended to, may be applied 
to the like purpose in other parts of the game. 

DIRECTIONS HOW TO PLAY WHEN AN ACE, KING, OR QUEEN, 
ARE TURNED UP ON YOUR RIGHT-HAND. 

Suppose the ace is turned up on your right-hand, and that 
you have the ten and nine of trumps only, with ace, king, and 
queen, of another suit, and eight cards of no value. Query, 
How must this game be played ? Begin with the ace of the 
suit of which you have the ace, king, and queen, which is an 
information to your partner that you have the command of 
that suit ; then play your ten of trumps, because it is five to 
two that your partner has king, queen, or knave of trumps ; 
52 



PART nj MODE OP PLAYING PARTICULAR CARDS. 

and though it is about seven to two that your partner has not 
two honours, yet, should he chanee to have them, and they 
prove to be the king and knave, in that case, as your partner 
will pass your ten of trumps, and as it is thirteen to twelve 
against the last player for holding the queen of trumps, upon 
supposition your partner has it not, in that case, when your 
partner has the lead, he plays to your strong suit, and upon 
your having the lead, play the nine of trumps, which puts it 
iD your partner's power to be almost certain of winning the 
queen if he lies behind it. 

The foregoing case shows, that turning up of an ace against 
you may be made less beneficial to your adversaries. 

If the king or queen are turned up on your right-hand, the 
like method of play may be made use of; but you are always 
to distinguish the difference of your partner's skill, because 
& good player will make a proper use of such play, but a bad 
one seldom. 

Suppose the adversary on your right-hand leads the king 
of trumps, and that you should have the ace and four small 
trumps, with a good suit ; in this case it is your interest to 
pass the king; and though he should have king, queen, and 
knave of trumps, with one more if he is a moderate player, 
he will play the small one, imagining that his partner has the 
ace : when he plays the small one, you are to pass it, because 
it is an equal wager that your partner has a better trump 
than the last pla} r er. If so, and that he happens to be a 
tolerable player, he will judge you have a good reason for 
this method, and consequently, if he has a third trump re- 
maining, he will play it ; if not, he will play his best suit. 

A Critical Case to win an Odd Trick. — Suppose A and B 
partners against C and D, and the game to be nine all, and 
suppose all the trumps are played out, A being the last 
player, has the ace and four other small cards of a suit in his 
hand, and one thirteenth card remaining ; B has only two 
small cards of A's suit ; C has queen and two other small 
cards of that suit ; D has king, knave, and one small card of 
the same suit. A and B have won three tricks, C and D 
have won four tricks ; it therefore follows, that A is to win 
four tricks out of the six cards in his hand, in order to win 
the game. C leads this suit, and D puts up the king ; A 
gives him that trick, D returns that suit; A passes it, and G 

6* 53 



WHIST ACCORDING TO BOYLE. [PART II. 

puts up his queen : thus C and D have won six tricks, a ad C 
imagining the ace of that suit to be in his partner's nand, 
returns it ; by which means A wins the four last tricka, and 
consequently the game. 

Suppose you should have the king and five small trumps, 
and that your right-hand adversary plays the queen ; in that 
case do not put on the king, because it is an equal wagor that 
your partner has the ace ; and suppose your adversary should 
have queen, knave, ten, and one small trump, it is aiso an 
equal wager that the ace lies single, either in your adversary's 
hand or partner's ; in either of which cases it is bad play to 
put on your king ; but if the queen of trumps is led, and that 
you should happen to have the king, with only two or three 
trumps, it is the best play to put on the king, because it is 
good play to lead from the queen and one small trump only : 
and in that case should your partner have the knavo of 
trumps, and your left-hand adversary hold the ace, you ueg- 
lecting to put on the king lose a trick. 

THE TEN OR NINE BEING TURNED UP ON YOUR RI iHT- 

HAND. 

Suppose the ten is turned up on your right-hand, and that 
you should have king, knave, nine, and two small trumps, 
with eight other cards of no value, and that it is proper for 
you to lead trumps; in that case, begin with the knave, in 
order to prevent the ten from making a trick ; and though it 
is but about five to four that your partner holds an honour, 
yet if that should fail, by finessing the nine on the return of 
trumps from your partner, you have the ten in your power. 

The nine being turned up on your right-hand, and that you 
should have ten, eight, and two small trumps, by leading the 
knave it answers the like purpose of the former case. 

You are to make a wide difference between a lead of choice, 
and a forced lead of your partner's ; because, in the first case, 
he is supposed to lead from his best suit, and finding you 
deficient in that, and not being strong enough in trumps, and 
not daring to force you, he then plays his next best suit ; by 
which alteration, it is next to a demonstration that he i? 
weak in trumps ; but should he persevere, by playing off his 
first lead, if he is a good player, you are to judge him strong 
in trumps, and play your game accordingly. 
54 



PART II.] MODE CF PLAYING PARTICULAR CARDS. 

There is nothing more pernicious than to change suits 
often, because in every new suit you run the risk of giving 
your adversary the tenace ; and, therefore, though you lead 
from a suit of which you have the queen, ten, and three small 
ones, and your partner puts on the nine only, in that case, if 
you should happen to be weak in trumps, and that you have 
no tolerable suit to lead from, it is your best play to pursue 
the lead of that suit by playing your queen, which leaves it 
in your partner's option whether he will trump it or not, in 
case he has no more of that suit ; but in your second lead, in 
case you should happen to have the queen or knave of any 
other suit, with one card only of the same suit, it would be 
better play to lead from your queen or knave of either of 
these suits, it being five to two that your partner has one 
honour at least in either of those suits. 

When you have ace, king, and one small card of any suit, 
with four trumps; if your right-hand adversary leads that 
suit, pass it, because it is an equal wager that your partner 
has a better card in that suit than the third hand ; if so, you 
gain a trick by it ; if otherwise, as you have four trumps, you 
may not lose, because when trumps are played, you probably 
will have the long trump. 

CAUTIONS NOT TO PART WITH THE COMMAND OF YOUR 
adversary's GREAT SUIT, &C. 

In case you are weak in trumps, and it does not appear 
Four partner is very strong in them, be very cautious how 
you part with the command of your adversary's great suit; 
for suppose your adversary plays a suit of which you have the 
king, queen, and one small card only, the adversary leads the 
ace, and upon playing the same suit again you put on your 
queen, which makes it almost certain to your partner that you 
have the king ; and suppose your partner refuses to that suit, 
do not play the king, because if the leader of that suit, or his 
partner, have the long trump, you risk the losing of three 
tricks to get one. 

Suppose your partner has ten cards remaining, and it 
appears to you that they consist of trumps and one suit only ; 
and suppose you should have king, ten, and one small card 
of his strong suit, with queen and two small trumps ; in this 
case, you are to judge he has five cards of each suit, and 

55 



WHIST ACCORDING TO HOYLE. [PAET n. 

therefore you ought to play out the king of his strong suit ; 
and if you win that trick, your next play is to throw out the 
queen of trumps; if that likewise comes home, proceed to 
play trumps : this method of play may be made use of at any 
score of the game, except at four and nine. 

The Trump turned up to be remembered. — It is so necessary 
that the trump turned up should be remembered, both by 
the dealer and his partner, that the dealer should always so 
place that card, as to be certain of having recourse to it ; for 
suppose it to be only a five, and that the dealer has two more, 
viz. the six and nine, if his partner trumps out with ace and 
king, he ought to play his six and nine; because suppose 
your partner to have ace, king, and four small trumps ; in 
this case, by your partner knowing you have the five remain- 
ing, you may win many tricks. 

Your right-hand adversary leads a suit of which you have 
the ten and two small ones ; the third hand puts up the 
knave, your partner wins it with the king ; when your ad- 
versary leads that suit again, and plays a small one, do you 
put on your ten, because it may save your partner's ace, upon 
supposition that your right-hand adversary led from the 
queen. 

Suppose you have the best trump, and that the adversary 
A has one trump only remaining, and that it appears to you 
that your adversary B has a great suit; in this case, though 
you permit A to make his trump, yet by keeping the trump 
in your hand, you prevent the adversary B from making his 
great suit; whereas, if you had taken out A's trump, it had 
made only one trick diflcrence ; but by this method you pro- 
bably save three or four tricks. 

The following Case hajopens frequently : — That you have 
two trumps remaining when your adversaries have only one, 
and it appears to you that your partner has one great suit ; in 
this case always play a trump, though you have the worst, 
because by removing the trump out of your adversary's hand, 
there can be no obstruction to your partner's suit. 

Suppose you should have three trumps when no one else 
has any, and that you should only have four cards of any cer- 
tain suit remaining ; in this case play a trump, which shows 
your partner that you have all the trumps, and also gives you 
a fair chance for one of your adversaries to throw away one 
56 



PART II.] MODE OF PLAYING PARTICULAR CARDS. 

card of the aforesaid suit ; by which means, supposing that 
suit to have been once led, and one thrown away, makes five, 
and four remaining in your hand makes nine, there being 
only four remaining between three hands, and your partner 
having an equal chance to hold a better card in that suit than 
the last player, it therefore follows that you have an equal 
chance i;o make three tricks in that suit, which probably could 
not otherwise have been done. 

Suppose you have five trumps, and six small cards of any 
suit, and are to lead; then lead from the suit of which you 
have six, because, as you are deficient in two suits, your 
adversary will probably trump out, which is paying your own 
game; whereas, had you begun with playing trumps, they 
would force you, and consequently destroy your game. 

THE MANNER OF PLAYING SEQUENCES FURTHER 
EXPLAINED. 

In trumps play the highest of your sequences, unless you 
should have ace, king, and queen; in that case play the 
lowest, in order to let your partner into the state of your 
game. 

In suits which are not trumps, if you have sequence of 
king, queen, and knave, and two small ones ; whether you are 
strong in trumps or not, it is the best play to begin with the 
knave, because by getting the ace out of any hand, you make 
room for the whole suit. 

And in case you are strong in trumps, supposing you should 
have sequence of queen, knave, ten, and two small cards of 
any suit; play the highest of the sequence, because, if either 
of the adversaries should trump that suit in the second round, 
you, by being strong in trumps, fetch out their trumps, and 
consequently make the remainder of that suit. 

The like method may be taken in a sequence by knave, 
ten, nine, and two small cards of any suit. 

If you have a sequence of a king, queen, knave, and one 
small card of any suit, whether you are strong in trumps or 
otherwise, play your king, and do the like by any inferior 
sequences, if you have only four in number. 

But if you are weak in trumps, always begin with the 
lowest of the sequence in case you have five in number; for 
suppose your partner to have the ace of that suit, he then 

57 



WHIST ACCORDING TO HOYLE. [PART II. 

makes it; and if you have the ace and four small cards of 
any suit, and are weak in trumps, and led from that suit, play 
the ace ; and if you are very strong in trumps, you may play 
your game as backward as you please ; but if you are weak 
in trumps, you must play the reverse. 

Let us explain what is meant by being strong or weak in 
trumps. 

If you have ac king, and three small trumps. 

King, queen, and three small trumpc. 

Queen, knare, and three small trumps. 

Queen, ten, and three small trumps. 

Knave, ten, and three small trumps. 

Queen, and four small trumps. 

Knave and four small trumps. 

In any of the aforesaid cases, you may be understood to be 
very strong in trumps, and therefore play by th foregoing 
rules, being morally assured of having the command. 

If you have two or three small trumps only, you are weak 
in them. 

What strength in trumps entitles you to force your partner 
at any point of the game ? 

Ace, and three small trumps. 

King, and three small trumps. 

Queen, and three small trumps. 

Knave, and three small trumps. 

If, by accident, either you or the adversaries have forced 
your partner (though you are weak in trumps) if he has had 
the lead, and does not choose to trump out, force him as often 
as the lead comes into your hand, unless you have good suits 
of your own to play. 

If you should happen to have only two or three small 
trumps, and that your right-hand adversary leads a suit of 
which you have none, trump it, which is an information to 
your partner that you are weak in trumps. 

Suppose you have ace, knave, and one small trump, and 
that your partner trumps to you, suppose from the king and 
three small trumps, and suppose your right-hand adversary 
has three trumps, and that your left-hand adversary has the 
like number ; in this case, by finessing your knave, and play- 
ing your ace, if the queen is on your right-hand, you win a 
trick ; but if queen is on your left-hand, and you should plaj 
58 



TART II.] MODE OF PLAYING PARTICULAR CARDS. 

the ace, and then return the knave, admitting your left-hand 
adversary put on the queen, which he ought to do, it is above 
two to one that one of the adversaries has the ten and con- 
sequently you gain no tricks* 

If your partner has led from the ace of trumps, and you 
have king, knave, and one small trump, by putting on your 
knave, and returning the king, it answers exactly the like 
purpose of the former rule. 

In other suits practise the like method. 

If you are strong in trumps, and have king, queen, and two 
or three small cards in any other suit, lead a small one, it 
being five to four that your partner has an honour in that 
suit, but if you are weak in trumps, you ought to begin with 
the king. 

If your right-hand adversary leads a suit of which you have 
king, queen, and two or three small cards of the same suit, 
you being strong in trumps, may pass it, because it is an 
equal wager that your partner has a better card in that suit 
than the third hand ; if not, by your strength in trumps, you 
need not fear making that suit 

If your right-hand adversary leads a suit of which you have 
king, queen, and one small card, whether in trumps or not, 
put on the queen : also, if you have queen, knave, and one 
small card, put on the knave : and if you have knave, ten, 
and one small card, put on the ten : by putting up the second 
best, as aforesaid, your partner has an expectation of your 
having a better card or cards in the same suit : and by the 
calculations annexed to this treatise, he may judge what are 
the odds for or against him. 

When you have ace, king, and two small cards in any suit, 
being strong in trumps ; if your right-hand adversary leads 
that suit, you may pass it, because it is an equal wager that 
your partner has a better card in that suit than the third 
hand ; if so you gain a trick by it, if otherwise you need not 
fear to make your ace and king by your strength in trumps. 

If you have the ace, nine, eight, and one small trump, and 
your partner leads the ten ) in that case pass it, because, 
unless the three honours lie behind you, you are sure of 
making two tricks ; do the like, if you should have the king, 
nine, eight, and one small trump ; or the queen, nine, eight, 
and one small trump. 

59 



WHIST ACCORDING TO HOYLE. [PART H 

In order to deceive your adversaries, if your right-hand 
adversary leads from a suit of which you have ace, king, and 
queen, or ace, king and knave, put on the ace ; because that 
encourages the adversaries to play that suit again : and 
though you deceive your partner by this method of play, you 
also deceive your adversaries, which is of greater consequence 
in this case j because if you had put on the lowest of the 
tierce-major, or the knave, your right-hand adversary had 
made a discovery that the strength of that suit was against 
him, and consequently would have changed suits. 

Suppose you have ace, ten, and one small card, in any suit ; 
also the ace, nine, and one small card of another suit to lead ; 
from the suit of which you have the ace, nine, and one small 
card ; it being an equal wager that your partner has a better 
card in that suit than the last player ; if not, let us then sup- 
pose that your right-hand adversary leads from the king or 
queen of the suit of which you have the ace, ten, and one 
small card ; in that case it is an equal wager that your part- 
ner has a better card in that suit than the third hand ; if that 
happens to be the case, upon the return of the suit, you lie 
tenace, and consequently stand a fair chance for three tricks. 

A Case to demonstrate the Tenace. — Let us suppose A and B 
to play at two-handed whist,* and A to have the ace, queen, 
ten, eight, six, and four of clubs, which, in case B always leads, 
are six sure tricks. Let us suppose he has the same hand in 
spades, which, in case B always leads, are six more sure 
tricks. We suppose B has the remainder of these two suits 

Suppose B to have the same hand in hearts and diamonds 
as A has in spades and clubs, and that A has the remainder 
of the hearts and diamonds, which, in case A always leads, 
are twelve sure tricks to B. 

The foregoing case shows that both hands are exactly 
equal ; and therefore let one of them name his trumps, and 
lead, he wins thirteen tricks only. 

But if one names the trumps, and the other leads, he that 
names the trumps ought to win fourteen tricks. 

He who would play whist to perfection, must not be con- 
tent only with being a master of the calculations contained 
in this treatise, and also an exact judge of all the general and 

* In this example, Hoyle evidently means that the 52 cards should b« 
divided between two players, which would give 26 tricks. 

60 



PART II.] MODE OF PLAYING PARTICULAR CARDS. 

particular cases in the same ; but be a very punctual observei 
of such cards as are thrown away, both by his partner and 
adversaries, and at what time. 

ADDITIONAL CASES. 

When it appears to you that the adversaries have three or 
four trumps remaining, and that neither you nor your partner 
have any, never attempt to force one hand to trump, and to 
let the other throw away a losing card, but rather endeavour 
to find out a suit in your own partner's hand in case you have 
no suit in your own; by which means you prevent them from 
making their trumps separate. 

Suppose A and B are partners against C and D, and sup- 
pose nine cards are played out ; and also that eight trumps 
are played out ; and further suppose A to have one trump 
only, and his partner B to have the ace and queen of trumps, 
and the adversaries C and D to have the king and knave of 
trumps between them. A leads his small trump, C plays the 
knave of trumps. Query, Whether B is to play his ace or 
queen of trumps upon the knave ? because I) having four 
cards in his hand remaining, and C only three, consequently 
it is four to three in B's favour, that the king is inD's hand : 
if we reduce the number of four cards in hand to three, the 
odds then is three to two : and if we reduce the number of 
three cards in a hand to two the odds then is two to one in 
favour of B's winning another trick, by putting on his ace of 
trumps. By the like rule you may play all the other suits. 

Suppose you have the thirteenth trump, and also the thir- 
teenth card of any suit, and one losing card ; play the losing 
card, because if you play the thirteenth card first, the adver- 
saries knowing you to have one trump remaining, will not 
pass your losing card, and therefore you play two to one 
against yourself. 

Suppose that you have the ace, king, and three small cards, 
in any suit which has never been played; and that it appears to 
you that your partner has the last trump remaining, lead a 
small card in that suit, because, it is an equal wager that your 
partner has a better card in it than the last player ; if so, and 
that there are only three cards in that suit in any one hand, 
it follows that you win five tricks ; wherear, if you play the 
ace and king in that suit, it is two to one that your partner 

7 61 



WHIST ACCORDING TO HOYLE. [PAST IL 

does not hold the queen, and consequently you win only two 
tricks in that suit. This method may be taken in case all the 
trumps are played ou r , provided you have good cards in other 
suits to bring in this, and you may observe that you reduce 
the odds of two to one against you to an equal chance by this 
method of play, and probably gain three tricks by it. 

If you choose to have trumps played by the adversaries, ana 
that your partner has led a suit to you of which you have the 
ace, knave, ten, nine, and eight, or the king, knave, ten, nine, 
and eight, you are to play the eight ; tvhich probably leads 
the adversary, if he wins that card, to play trumps. 

Suppose you have a quart-major in any suit, with one or 
two more of the same, and that it is necessary to let your 
partner know that you have the command ; in that case throw 
away the ace upon any suit of which you have none in your 
hand, to clear up his doubts, because the odds are that neither 
of the adversaries have more than three in that suit : the like 
method may be taken if you have a quart to a king , the ace 
being played out, you may throw away the king ; also, if you 
should have a quart to a queen, the ace and king being played 
out, you may throw away your queen \ all of which lets youi 
partner into the state of your game ; and you may play by 
the like rule in all inferior sequences, having the best of them 
in your hand. 

There is scarcely anything more common amongst moderate 
players, in case the king is turned up on the left hand, and 
they have the queen and one small trump only, to play out 
their queen, in hopes their partner may win the king if it is 
put on ; not considering that it is about two to oue that theii 
partner has not the ace, and admitting he has the ace, thej 
do not CDnsider that they play two honours against one, and 
consequently weaken their game. The necessity only of play- 
ing trumps should oblige them to play thus. 

A case which frequently happens. — A and B are partners 
against C and D, and all the trumps are played out except one, 
which C or D has ; A has three or four winning cards in his 
hand of a suit already played, with an ace and one small card 
of another suit : it is A's best play to throw away one of his 
winning cards ; because, if his right-hand adversary plays tc 
his ace-suit, he has it in his power to pass it, and consequently 
his partner B has an equal chance to have a better card in 
62 



PA&.T II.] MODE OP PLAYING PARTICULAR CARDS. 

that suit than the third hand ; if so, and B has any forcing 
card, or one of his partner's suit to play to, in order to force 
out the last trump, A's ace remaining in his hand, brings in 
his winning cards ; whereas, if A had thrown away the small 
card to his ace-suit, and that his right-hand adversary had led 
that suit, he had been obliged to put on his ace, und conse- 
auently had lost some tricks by that method of play. 

Suppose ten cards have been played out, and it appears 
very probable that your left-hand adversary has three trumps 
remaining, viz., the best and two small ones; and you have 
two trumps only, and your partner no trump ; and suppose 
your right-hand adversary plays a thirteenth or some other 
winning card, in that case pass it, by which means you gain 
a trick, because the left-hand adversary must trump. 

In order to let your partner into the state of your game, 
suppose you to have a quart-major in trumps (or any other 
four best trumps) if you are obliged to trump a card, win it 
with the ace of trumps, and then play the knave, or win it 
with the highest of any four best trumps, and then play the 
lowest, which clears up your game to your partner : and may 
be the means of winning many tricks : practise the like rule 
so, in all other suits. 

If your partner calls at the point of eight before his time, 
you are to trump to him, whether you are strong in trumps 
or suits, or not ; because, as he calls before he is obliged to 
do so, it is a declaration of his being strong in trumps. 

Suppose your right-hand adversary turns up the queen of 
clubs ; and, when he has the lead, plays the knave of clubs ; 
and suppose you have the ace, ten, and one club more, or the 
king, ten, and one small card ; when he leads his knave, you 
are not to win it, because it is an equal wager, you not having 
the king, that your partner has it : also it is an equal wager, 
when he leads his knave, you not having the ace, that your 
partner has it, and consequently you may gain a trick by 
passing it ; which cannot be done, if you either put on your 
king or ace of clubs. 

A Case for a Slam. — Let us suppose A and B partners 
against C and D ; and C to deal ; and let us suppose A to 
have the king, knave, nine, and seven of clubs, they being 
trumps ; a quart-major in diamonds, a tierce-major in heart? 
and the ace and king of spades. 

63 



WHIST ACCORDING TO HOYLE [PART EL 

B to have nine diamonds, two spades, and two hearts. 

Also D to have the ace, queen, ten, and eight of trumps, 
with nine spades. 

And let have five trumps and eight hearts. 

A is to lead a trump, which D is to win, and D is to play a 
spade, which his partner C is to trump; C is to lead a trump, 
which his partner D is to win ; when D is to lead a spade, 
which C is to trump ; and C is to play a trump which D is tc 
win ; and D having the best trump is to play it ; which done, 
D having seven spades in his hand, wins them, and conse- 
quently slams A and B. 

If your partner leads the king of a suit and that you have 
none of that suit, pass it, by throwing away a losing card, 
(unless your right-hand adversary has put on the ace) be- 
cause, by so doing, you make room for his suit. 

Suppose your partner leads the queen of a suit, and your 
right-hand adversary wins it with the ace, and returns that 
suit : in case you have none of it, do not trump, but throw 
away a losing card, which makes room for your partner's 
suit. An exception to this is, if you play for an odd trick, 
and are very weak in trumps. 

Suppose you have the ace, king, and one small card of a 
suit, and that your left-hand adversary leads that suit, and 
suppose you should have four small trumps, and no suit of 
consequence to lead from ; and your right-hand adversary 
should put on the nine, or any lower card ; in this case win 
it with the ace, and return the lead upon the adversary by 
playing the small card of that suit ; who will have reason tc 
judge that the king lies behind him, and consequently will 
not put up his queen if he has it ; and therefore you have a 
fair probability of winning a trick by this method of play. 
at the same time letting your partner into the state of youi 
game. 

If your partner forces you to trump a card early in the 
deal, you are to suppose him strong in trumps, except at the 
points of four or nine ; and, therefore, if you are strong in 
trumps, play them. 

Suppose you call at the point of eight, and your partner 

has no honour; and suppose you should have the king, queen, 

and ten; the king, knave, and ten; or the queen, knave, and 

ten of trumps : when trumps are played, always put on the 

64 



FART II. j MODE OF PLAYING PARTICULAR CARDS. 

ten, which demonstrates to your partner that you have two 
honours remaining, and so he plays his game accordingly. 

Suppose your right-hand adversary calls at the point of 
eight, and his partner has no honour; and you should have 
the king, nine, and one small trump, or the queen, nine, and 
two small trumps ; when trumps are played by your partner, 
put on the nine, because it is about two to one that the ten 
is not behind you. 

If you lead a suit of which you have the ace, king, and 
two or three more, when you play the ace, if your partner 
plays the ten or knave, and suppose you should have one 
single card in your hand in any other suit, and two or three 
small trumps only ; in this case lead the single card, in order 
to establish a saw ; and this consequence attends such play, 
viz. upon leading that suit it gives your partner an equal 
chance of having a better card in it than the last player; 
whereas, had he led that to you, which is probable had been 
his strong suit, the adversaries would discover your attempt 
to establish a saw, and would trump out. 

Suppose you have the ace and deuce of trumps, and strong 
in the three other suits ; if you are to lead, play the ace, and 
next your deuce of trumps, in order to put the lead into your 
partner's hand, to take out two trumps for one ; and suppose 
the last player wins that trick, and that he leads a suit of 
which you have the ace, king, and two or three more, pass 
it, because it is an equal wager that your partner has a better 
card in that suit than the third hand ; if so, he will then have 
an opportunity of taking out two trumps to one ; when the 
lead comes into your hand, endeavour to force out one of the 
two trumps remaining, upon supposition eleven trumps are 
played out, and the odds are in your favour that your partner 
has one of the two trumps remaining. 

Suppose ten cards are played out, and that you have the 
king, ten, and one small card of any suit, which has never 
been led ; and suppose you have won six tricks, and your 
partner leads from that suit, and that there is neither a trump 
or thirteenth card in any hand ; in this case, unless your 
right-hand adversary puts on so high a card as obliges you 
to play the king, do not put it on, because upon the return 
of that suit you make your king, and consequently the odd 
trick, which makes two difference ; if there happens to be 

7* 65 



WHIST ACCORDING TO HOYLE. [PART LI 

only nine cards played out, in the like circumstance, play by 
the like rule. This method is always to be taken, unless 
gaining two tricks gives you a chance either to save youi 
lurch or to win or save the game. 

Suppose A and B partners against C and D, and B has the 
two last trumps, also the queen, knave, and nine of another 
suit ; and suppose A has neither the ace, king, or ten of that 
suit, but A is to lead. B should play the nine, because it is 
only five to four against him that his left-hand adversary 
holds the ten ; and if he plays either the queen or knave, it 
is about three to one the ace or king is in his left-hand adver- 
sary's hands, and consequently he reduces the odds of three 
to one against him, to five to four only. 

Vary the foregoing case, and put the king, knave, and nine 
of a suit into B's hand, upon supposition that A has neither 
ace, queen, or ten ; when A leads that suit, it is exactly equal 
whether B plays his king, knave, or nine. 

Suppose you have ace, king, and three or four small cards 
of a suit not played, and that it appears to you that your 
partner has the last trump ; in this case, if you are to lead, 
play a small card in that suit, it being an equal wager that 
your partner has a better card in that than the last player j 
if so, the probability is in your favour that you make five or 
six tricks in that suit ; but if you should play out ace and 
king of that suit, it is two to one that your partner has not 
the queen, and consequently it is two to one that you make 
only two tricks, by which method, you risk the losing of three 
or four tricks in that deal to gain one only. 

If your partner leads a suit of which he has the ace, queen, 
knave, and many more, and leads his ace, and then plays his 
queen ; in case you have the king and two small cards in that 
suit, win his queen with the king ; and suppose you are strong 
in trumps, by clearing the board of trumps, and having a 
small card of your partner's great suit, you do not obstruct 
his suit, and consequently win many tricks. 

HOW TO PLAY FOR AN ODD TRICK. 

Suppose you are elder hand, and that you have the ace, 

king, and three small trumps, with four small cards of another 

suit, three small cards of the third suit, and one small card 

of the fourth suit ; lead the single card, which, if it is won 

66 



PART II.] HOW TO PLAY FOR AN ODD TRICK. 

by the last player, puts him upon playing trumps, or to play 
to your weak suit ; in which case your partner and you gain 
the tenace. 

THE LIKE CASE FOR AN ODD TRICK, AND THAT 1 YOUR 
PARTNER IS TO LEAD. 

Suppose he plays the ace of the suit, of which you have 
only one, and proceeds to play the king of the same suit, and 
that your right-hand adversary trumps it with the queen, 
knave, or ten ; do not overtrump him, but throw away a small 
card of your weakest suit ; because it makes your partner the 
last player, and gives him the tenace in your weak suits. 

THE LIKE CASE, UPON SUPPOSITION YOU WANT FOUR OR FIVE 
POINTS, AND THAT YOU ARE ELDER HAND. 

Play a small trump, and if your partner has a better trump 
than the last player, and returns the lead, put on the king of 
trumps, and then proceed to play the suit of which you have 
four in number. 

These examples being duly attended to, on all parts of the 
game, must be of great consequence to the player ; because 
when he has no good suit to play, his partner being the last 
player gains the tenace in his weak suits. 

A and B are partners against C and D, twelve trumps are 
played out, and seven cards only remain in each hand, of 
which A has the last trump, and also the ace, king, and four 
small cards of a suit. 

A ought to play a small card of that suit, because it is an 
equal wager that his partner has a better card in it than the 
last player ; and in this case, if four cards of that suit should 
happen to be in either of his adversaries' hands, he will be 
able to make five tricks in that suit : when if he played oflf 
his ace and king, he had made only two tricks. If neither 
of the adversaries have more than three cards in that suit, A 
has an equal chance to win six tricks in it. 

Suppose A and B are partners against C and D, and that 
eight trumps are played out, and that A has four of those 
trumps remaining, C having the best trump, and to lead. C 
ought not to play his trump to take out one of A's trumps, 
because he would leave three trumps in A's hand ; but in 
case A's partner has any great suit to make, C, keeping the 

67 



WHIST ACCORDING TO HOYLE. [PART II 

trump in his own hand, can prevent him from making thai 
suit by trumping it. 

A Case of Curiosity. — Suppose three hands of cards, con- 
taining three cards in each hand : let A name the trumps, 
and let B choose which hand he pleases, A having his choice 
of either of the other two hands, wins (wo tricks. 

Clubs are to be trumps. 
First hand, ace, king, and six of hearts. 
Second hand, queen, and ten of hearts, and ten of trumps. 
Third hand, nine of hearts, and two and three of trumps. 
The first hand wins of the second. 
The second wins of the third. 
And the third wins of the first. 



THE LAWS OF WHIST. 

,OF DEALING. 

If a card is turned up in dealing, it is in the option of the 
adverse party to call a new deal ; but if either of them have 
been the cause of turning up such card, in that case the dealer 
has his option. 

If a card is faced in the deal, there must be a new deal, 
unless it is the last card. 

Every person ought to see that he has thirteen cards dealt ; 
therefore, if any one should happen to have only twelve, and 
does not find it out till several tricks are played, and that the 
rest of the players have their right number, the deal stands 
good ) and also the person who plays with 12 cards is to be 
punished for each revoke, in case he has made any; but if 
any of the rest of the players should happen to have fourteen 
cards, in that case the deal is lost. 

The dealer ought to leave in view upon the table his trump 
card, till it is his turn to play ; and after he has mixed it with 
his cards, nobody is entitled to demand what card is turned 
up, but may ask what is trumps. This consequence attends 
such a law that the dealer cannot name a wrong card, which 
otherwise he might have done. 

None of the players ought to take up or look at their cards, 
while any person is dealing ; and if the dealer should happec 
68 



past n.] hoyle's laws and regulations. 

to miss deal, iu that case he sball deal again, unless it arisei 
from his partner's fault ; and if a card is turned up in deal- 
ing, no new deal shall be called, unless the partner ha« been 
the cause of it. 

If the dealer, instead of turning up the trump, puts the 
trump card upon the rest of his cards, with the face down- 
wards, he is to lose his deal. 

OP PLAYING OUT OP TURN. 

If any person plays out of his turn, the card so played may 
be called at any time in that deal, provided it does not cause 
a revoke j or either of the adversaries may require of the 
person who ought to have led, to play the suit the said ad- 
versary may choose. 

A and B are -partners against C and D , A plays the ten 
of a suit, the adversary C plays the knave of the same suit, 
B plays a small card of the same suit, but before D plays, his 
partner C leads another card, the penalty shall be in the 
option of A or B to oblige D to win the trick if he can. 

A and B are partners against C and D ; A leads a club, his 
partner B plays before the adversary C ; in this case D has a 
right to play before his partner C, because B played out of 
his turn. 

If the ace, or any other card of a suit is led, and it should 
so happen that the last player plays out of his turn, whether 
his partner has any of the suit led or not, provided you do 
not make him revoke, he is neither entitled to trump it, nor 
to win the trick. 

OP REVOKING. 

If a revoke happens to be made, the adversaries may add 
three to their scores, or take three tricks from the revoking 
party, or to take down three from their score ; and the revok- 
ing party, provided they are up, notwithstanding the penalty, 
must remain at nine : the revoke takes place of any other 
score of the game. 

If any person revokes, and before the cards are turned dis 
covers it, the adverse party may call the highest or lowest card 
of the suit led, or have their option to call the card theo 
played, at any time when it does not cause a revoke. 

No revoke to be claimed till the trick is turned and 

69 



WHIST ACCORDING TO HOYLE. [PART It 

quitted, or the party who revoked, or his partner have played 
again. 

If any person claims a revoke, the adverse party are not to 
mix their cards, upon forfeiture of the revoke. 

No revoke can be claimed after the cards are cut for a new 
deal. 

OF CALLING HONOURS. 

If any person calls at any point of the game, except eight, 
either of the adverse parties may call a new deal ; and they 
are at liberty to consult each other whether they will have a 
new deal. 

After the trump card is turned up, no person must remind 
his partner to call, on penalty of losing a point. 

If the trump card is turned up, no honours in the preced- 
ing deal can be set up, unless they were before claimed. 

If any person calls at the point of eight, and his partDer 
answers, and both the opposite parties have thrown down their 
cards, and it appears that the other side had not two by 
honours; in this case they may consult with one another 
about it, and are at liberty to stand the deal or not. 

And if any person answers when he has not an honour, the 
adverse party may consult one another about it, and are at 
liberty to stand the deal or not 

If any person calls at eight, after he has played, it shall 
be in the option of the adversaries to call a new deal. 

OP SEPARATING AND SHOWING THE CARDS. 

If any person separates a card from the rest, the adverse 
party may call it, provided he names it, and proves the sepa- 
ration ; but in case he calls a wrong card, he or his partner 
are liable for once to have the highest or lowest card called 
in any suit led during the deal. 

If any person throws his cards upon the table with their 
faces upwards, upon supposition that he has lost the game, 
the adversaries have it in their power to call any of the cards 
when they think proper, provided they do not make the party 
revoke, and he is not to take up his cards again. 

If any person is sure of winning every trick, he may show 
his cards upon the table ; but he is then liable to have all his 
cards called. 
70 



PART n.] EXPLANATION OP TECHNICAL TERMS. 



OP OMITTING TO PLAY TO A TRICK. 

A and B are partners against C and D ; A leads a club, 
plays the ace of clubs, B plays a club, and D, partner to C, 
takes up the trick without playing any card ; A, and the rest 
of the players, play on, till it appears D has one card more 
than the rest : penalty to be in the option of the adversaries 
to call a new deal. 

RESPECTING WHO PLAYED ANY PARTICULAR CARD. 

Each person in playing ought to lay his card before him ; 
after he has done so, if either of the adverse parties mix 
their cards with his, his partner is entitled to demand each 
person to lay his card before him ; but not to enquire who 
played any particular card. 

AN EXPLANATION OP THE TERMS, OR TECHNICAL WORDS, IN 

THIS TREATISE. 

Finessing, means endeavouring to gain an advantage thus : 
When a card is led, and you have the best and third best of 
that suit, you put your third best card upon that lead, and 
run the risk of your adversary having the second best ; if he 
has it not, which is 2 to 1 against him, you are then sure of 
gaining a trick. 

Forcing, means obliging your partner or adversary to 
trump a suit, of which he has none. The cases mentioned 
in this Treatise will show when it is proper to force either of 
them. 

Long Trump, means having one or more trumps in your 
hand, when all the rest are out. 

Loose Card, is a card of no value, and, consequently, the 
properest to throw away. m 

Points, ten of them make a game ) as many as are gained by 
tricks or honours, so many points are set up to the score. 

Quart is a sequence of any four cards immediately follow- 
ing one another in the same suit. — Quart-major is a sequence 
of ace, king, queen, and knave. 

Quint is a sequence of any five cards immediately follow- 
ing one another in the same suit. — Quint-major is a sequence 
of ace, king, queen, knave, and ten. 

Reverse, means only playing the hand in a different man- 

71 



WHIST ACCORDING TO HOTLE. [PART IL 

ner ; that is, if you are "strong in trumps, you play one way \ 
if weak in trumps, you play the Reverse, viz. another. 

See-saw, is when each partner trumps a suit, and plays 
those suits to one another to trump. 

Score, is the number of points set up, ten of which make 
a game. 

Slam, is when either party win every trick. 

Tenace, is having the first and third best cards, and being 
last player, and, consequently, catching the adversary when 
that suit is played j as, for instance, in case you have ace and 
queen of any suit, your adversary leads, you must win those 
two tricks ; and so of any other tenace in inferior cards. 

Terce or Tierce, is a sequence of any three cards imme- 
diately following one another in the same suit. Terce-major 
is a sequence of ace, king, and queen. 

AN ARTIFICIAL MEMORY, FOR THOSE WHO PLAY AT THE 
GAME OF WHIST. 

Place, of every suit in your hand, the worst to the left 
hand, and the best (in order) to the right; and the trumps, 
m the like order, always to the left of all the other suits. 

If in the course of play you have the best card remaining 
in any suit, put the same to the left of your trumps.* 

And if you find you are possessed of the second best card 
of any suit, place it on the right of your trumps. 

And if you have the third best card of any suit, place a 
small card of that suit between the trumps and that third 
best, to the right of the trumps. 

To remember your partner's first lead, place a small card 
of that suit in the midst of your trumps, and if you have but 
one trump, on the left of it. 

When you deal, put the trump turned up to the right of 
all your trumps, and keep it as long as you can, that your 
partner may, knowing that you have that trump left, play 
accordingly. 

TO FIND WHERE OR IN WHAT SUIT YOUR ADVERSARIES 

REVOKE. 

Suppose two suits on the right-hand to represent youi 

* This conspicuous mode of arrangement is hardly suitable to the pr« 
vent day ; players have become too sharpsighted. 

72 



PART n.] CALCULATION OF ODDS. 

adversaries in the order they sit, as to yo ir right and left 
hand. 

When you suspect either of them to have made a revoke, 
clap a small card of that suit amongst the cards representing 
that adversary, by which you record not only that there 
may have been a revoke, but also who made it, and in what 
suit. 

If the suit representing the adversary that made the re- 
voke, happens to be the same he revoked in, change that suit 
for another, and put a small card of the suit revoked in the 
middle of that exchanged suit, and if you have not a card 
remaining of that suit reverse a card of any other you have, 
(except diamonds) and place it there. 

As you have a way to remember your partner's first lead, 
you may also record in what suit either of your adversaries 
made their first lead, by putting the suit so led in the place 
which in your hand represents that adversary ; and if other 
suits were already placed to represent them, then exchange 
those for the suits in which each of them makes his first lead. 

The foregoing method is to be taken when more necessary 
to record your adversary's first lead, than to endeavour to find 
out a revoke. 



CALCULATIONS WHICH DIRECT WITH MORAL CERTAINTY 
HOW TO PLAY WELL ANY HAND, BY SHOWING THE 
CHANCES OP YOUR PARTNER HAVING 1, 2, OR 3, CERTAIN 
CARDS. 

Q^" Read with attention those marked N. B. 

FOR EXAMPLE. 

What is the chance of your friend having one certain 
card ? 

. against for 

Answer. him him 

That he has it not, is, N. B 2 to 1 

What is the chance of having two certain cards ? 

Answer. 

That he has one of them only, is , 31 to 26 

That he has not both of them 17 to 2 

8 73 



WHIST ACCORDING TO HOYLE. [PART II 

against for 
him him 
But that he has one or both, is about 5 to 4, or 

N. B 25 to 82 

What are the chances of having 3 certain cards ? 

Answer. 

That he holds one of them only is 325 for him to 

378 against him, or about 6 to 7 

That he has not 2 of them only, is 156 for him to 

547 against him, or about 2 to 7 

That he has not all 3 of them, is 22 for him to 681 

against him, or about 1 to 31 

But that he has 1 or 2 of them, is 481 for him to 

222 against him, or about 13 to 6 

And that he has 1, 2, or all 3 of them, is about 

N. B 5 to 2 

AN EXPLANATION AND APPLICATION OP THE CALCULATIONS 
NECESSARY TO BE UNDERSTOOD BY THOSE WHO READ THIS 
TREATISE. 

First Calculation 

It is 2 to 1 that my partner has not one certain card. 

To apply this calculation, suppose the right-hand adver- 
sary leads a suit, of which you have the king and one small 
card only ; observe that it is 2 to 1, by putting on your king, 
that the left-hand adversary cannot win it. 

Again, suppose that you have the king and three small 
cards of any suit, likewise the queen and three small cards of 
any other suit, lead from the king, because it is 2 to 1 that 
the ace does not lie behind you ; but it is 5 to 4 that the ace 
or king of any suit lies behind you, and consequently, by 
leading from your queen suit, you play to a disadvantage. 

2nd Calculation. It is 5 to 4, at least, that your partner 
has one out of any 2 certain cards ; the like odds are in 
favour of your adversaries ; therefore, suppose you have two 
honours of any suit, and knowing it is 5 to 4 that your part- 
ner holds one of the other two honours, you do by this play 
your game to a greater degree of certainty. 

Again, suppose that you have the queen and one small 
card in any suit only, and that your right-hand adversary 
leads that suit, if you put on your queen, it is 5 to 4 that 
74 



part n.] 



CALCULATION OF ODDS. 



your left-hand adversary can win it, and therefore you play 
5 to 4 to disadvantage. 

3c? Calculation. It is 5 to 2 that your partner has one out 
of any three certain cards. 

Therefore, suppose you have the knave and one small card 
dealt, and that your right-hand adversary leads from that 
suit, if you put on the knave, it is 5 to 2 that your left-hand 
adversary has either ace, king, or queen of the suit lead, and 
therefore you play 5 to 2 against yourself; besides, by mak- 
ing a discovery to your right-hand adversary, he finesses upon 
your partner throughout the whole suit. 

And, in order to explain the necessity there is of putting 
on the lowest of sequences in all the suits led, suppose that 
your adversary Ted a suit of which you have the king, queen, 
and knave, or queen, knave, and ten ; by putting on your 
knave of the suit of which you have the king, queen, and 
knave, it gives your partner an opportunity of calculating the 
odds for and against him in that suit, and also in all inferior 
suits of which you have sequences. 

A farther use to be made of the foregoing calculation : 
suppose that you have the ace, king, and two small trumps, 
with a quint-major or five other winning cards in any other 
suit, and that you have played trumps two rounds, and each 
person followed trumps ; in this case there are eight trumps 
out, and two trumps remaining in your hand, which make 
ten, and three trumps divided between the remaining three 
players, of which three, the odds are 5 to 2 that your part- 
ner has one ; and, therefore, out of seven cards in your hand, 
you are entitled to win five tricks. 



SOME COMPUTATIONS FOR LAYING WAGERS. 

All with the Deal. 



The deal is 



love 



is 2 to 1 of the 
game, and 1 of 
the lurch 



21 

11 

5 

3 

7 



to 



20 

10 

4 

2 

4 



2— 1 



6 

7 

8. 

9 is about 



5 to 2 

7— 2 

5— 1 

9— 2 



2 to 1 is 9 to 8 

3— 1 9—7 

4—1 9—6 

75 



WHIST ACCORDING TO HOYLE. [PART II. 



5 to 

6 — 

7 — 

8 — 

9 — 



9 to 5 

9 — 4 

3 — 1 

9 — 2 

is about 4 — 1 



3 to 2 is 8 to 7 



4 to 3 is 7 to 6 

5 — 3 7 — 5 

6 — 3 7 — 4 

7 — 3 7—3 

8 — 3 7 — 2 

9 — 3 is about 3 — 1 



5 to 4 is 6 to 5 

6 — 4 6 — 4 

7—4 2 — 1 

8 — 4 3 — 1 

9 — 4 is about .... 5—2 



6 to 5 is 5 to 4 

7 — 5 5 — 3 

8 — 5 5 — 6 

9 — 5 is about 2 — 1 



7 to 6 is 4 to 3 

8 — 6 2 — 1 

9 — 6 is about 7 — 4 



8 to 7 is above 3 to 2 

9 — 7 is about 12 — 8 



8 to 9 is about 3 and a half in the hundred, in favour of 
8 with the deal ; against the deal, the odds are still, though 
small, in favour of 8. 

CALCULATIONS FOR THE WHOLE RUBBER. 

Suppose A and B are at play, and that A is 1 game, and 
8 love of the second game, with the deal. 

Query. What are the odds throughout the whole rubber ? 

1 Game love and 9 love of the second game (upon suppo- 
sition of 9 love with the deal) being nearly 6 to 1. 
First game and 9 love of the second game is nearly 13 to 1 
First game and 8 love of the second game is a little 

more than the former 13 — l&c. 

First game and 7 love of the second is nearly .. 10 — 1 

Ditto and 6 love of the second is nearly 8 — 1 

Ditto and 5 love of the second is nearly 6 — 1 

Ditto and 4 love of the second is nearly 5 — 1 

Ditto and 3 love of the second is nearly 4} — 1 

Ditto and 2 love of the second is nearly 4 — 1 

Ditto and 1 love of the second is nearly 7 — 2 

The above calculations are made with the deal. 
76 



part n.] 



CALCULATION OF ODDS. 



AGAINST THE DEAL. 



Suppose A and B are at play, and that A is one game, and 
any number of points in the second deal. 
First game and 9 love of the second is nearly ... 11 to 1 
Ditto and 8 love of the second game, is a little 



more 11 



Ditto and 7 love of the second 
Ditto and 6 love of the second 
Ditto and 5 love of the second 
Ditto and 4 love of the second 
Ditto and 3 love of the second 
Ditto and 2 love of the second 
First game and 1 love of the second is nearly... 

The use which is to be made of the foregoing calculations, 
may be made by dividing the stake, according to the tablei 
herewith set down. 



game 
game 
game 
game 
game 
game 



9 — 

7 — 
5 — 
4* — 
4 — 

7 —2 
6|—2 



77 



PART THE THIRD. 

WHIST: FROM THE TEXT OF DESCHAPELLES.* 

The most elaborate and philosophical treatise in existence 
on the game of Whist, is that written by the distinguished 
Frenchman, to whom we are indebted for this portion of our 
materiel. He tells us that one chapter is the result of twenty 
years' experience — which may serve to illustrate the amount 
of practical detail contained in the complete work. As it 
would be impossible in this place to attempt more than a 
slight epitome of the whole, we have culled such portions as 
seemed most suited to our purpose. The infinite vaii»ty of 
this noble game, renders it impossible to apply any system to 
it, which would be available on every occasion of doubt and 
difficulty. It abounds with instances wherein the patient must 
minister to himself. For this reason we the less regret that 
we cannot follow M. Deschapelles through the rich wilderness 
of hypotheses which fill and fructify his pages. The sugges- 
tions that are strewn through this selection from them, how- 
ever, will supply general instructions by which a competent 
understanding of the fundamental elements of whist, may be 
acquired — fine play of any kind is alone the result of personal 
application and peculiar fitness. As most available, then, I 
take up his analysis of its Rules. He proves to us that they 
not only form the basis of its principle, but that they are a 
code of maxims for the player. He insists that their honour 
able observance is the best policy, and that when departed 
from, whatever may be the temporary advantage, ultimate 
evil is sure to come of it. Here, whatever may be the nature 
of the theory, is at least a moral of account : and if it be 
gracious to find sermons in stones, surely none will quarrel 
with the philosophy which extracts a precious jewel from " a 
game at whist 1" 

* The student must bear in mind that Deschapelles' " Laws and Regu 
lations" are not established as authority in England. They are principally 
applicable to French "Whist, and are given here in extenso only on account 
of their interest and merit. 

78 



*ART ITr.] HIS LAWS AND REGULATIONS. 

DESCHAPELLES' LAWS AND REGULATIONS. 

SECTION I. PRELIMINARY ARRANGEMENTS. 

Article 1. — A complete whist table is composed of six 
persons. 

The first four are chosen by lot, (see Article 6,) for the first 
rubber, and the two others take their turn for the succeeding 
ones. 

Art. 2. — If the table be not complete, new players take 
their turn in the order of their arrival ; and afterwards fill 
up, in their turn, whatever vacancies may occur. — (See 
Article 13.) 

Art. 3.- — If more than six persons present themselves fc 
form a table, the four first players are chosen by lot. — (See 
Article 7.) 

Art. 4. — Every one is entitled to play two rubbers, after 
which he must quit the table, to make room for those whose 
turn it is to replace him ; the two players who are to leave 
at the expiration of the first or opening rubber, are fixed on 
by lot. 

Art. 5. — When the rubber is finished, if there are parties 
Jraiting to play, a table is compelled to admit two of them, 
jut never three. 

Art. 6. — The lot is decided by a single pack of cards, each 
party drawing one. 

Art. 7. — It may be necessary to draw lots twice, before a 
table is completely made up. 

Firstly, to decide on the six persons of whom it is to be 
composed, and on the four who are to commence. 

And, secondly, to determine the choice of partners. 

Art. 8. — The person who draws the lowest card chooses his 
place, and the pack to deal with. 

Art. 9. — When once seated at the table, there can be no 
changing seats, nor can there be any change of cards when 
once cut. 

Art. 10. — The dealer's partner takes his seat opposite him, 
the adversaries may take their places as they please, without 
reference to the cards which they may have respectively 
drawn. 

79 



WHIST ACCORDING TO DESCHAPELLES. [PART III 

Art. 11. — At the beginning of a rubber, the parties who 
are to complete it being absent, may take their seats if they 
arrive before the trump card of the first deal has been turned 

Art. 12. — If they do not arrive in time, (see Article 11,) 
they must take their turn at the bottom of the list. 

Art. 13. — Persons who are in the habit of playing, are to 
be considered as inscribed for their turn at the table from the 
time they approach it. 

Art. 14. — The four persons composing the first rubber 
determine the amount of the points, and other necessary con- 
ventions (according to the practices of the game). 

Art. 15. — After drawing for partners, or in the course of 
the rubber, a party may withdraw, on paying for himself and 
his partner all that may have been lost. 

Art. 16. — A player compelled to leave the room for a short 
time, may, with the consent of the other three players, give 
bis hand to another to play for him. 

If he be not returned at the expiration of the rubber, his 
place is to be taken by the next in order of succession, with- 
out favour. — (See Article 12.) 

Art. 17. — A person playing at one table, loses his turn at 
all the others for which he may be inscribed. 

Art. 18. — In case a party be inscribed for several tables, 
he may make his choice in the event of another party desir- 
ing admission. 

Art. 19. — When the time arrives for a table to change, the 
parties composing it cannot continue unless there are no 
applicants to replace them. 

Its condition changes immediately, at the will of any mem- 
ber of the society who may put his name down to take his 
turn. — (See Articles 2 and 13.) 

SECTION II. — THE DEAL. 

Art. 20. — The dealer may shuffie the cards or not; at his 
option. 

He must hand them to his right-hand adversary to cut. 

Art. 21. — In case of ail irregular cut, or the dealer omit- 
ting to have the cards cut, the adversaries, on proving the 
fact, may demand a new deal. This right is however lost, 
if not demanded before the first card has been played. 
80 



PART m.] HIS .LAWS AND REGULATIONS. 

Art. 22. — If the cards are not cleanly cut, the dealer may 
instantly demand another cut, or a new deal. 

Art. 23. — He has the same right (Article 22,) if the cut 
contain less than four cards. 

Art. 24. — Each player is entitled to shuffle the caids once 
before they are cut. 

Art. 25. — If the turn-up or trump card is shown, either, 

1. in cutting, or, 

2. in taking up the cards, 

the opposite party has a right to demand a new deal. 

Art. 26. — If the dealer look at the turn-up card before it 
is turned, or show it before the cards are all dealt, it is a lost 
deal, and the cards pass to the next hand. 

Art. 27. — If the dealer disarrange the cards, or drop one 
the deal is lost. 

Art. 28. — The cards are to be dealt, 

1. From left to right; 

2. Deliberately; 

3. Detached by the centre, and distributed one at a 
time. 

Art. 29. — Each player has the right, before he has shown 
a card, (see Article 3-4.) to make observations on the deal 
(See Article 133.) 

Art. 30. — If (see Article 29,) the bystanders decide that 
the dealing ought to be more regular, the deal is lost. 

Art. 31. — If the dealer, in distributing the cards, 

1. Show more than one card, either through his own 
fault, or that of his partner ; 

2. Give more than two cards wrong ; 

3. Touch the hand of one of the players to count the 
cards ; 

4. Or place the trump card on the other cards without 
having turned it up ; 

the deal is lost. 

Art. 32. — During a deal, when a card is seen, owing to the 
fault of one of the players, (see Article 31,) the opposite 
party may have the card retained, or demand a new deal. 

In case of a new deal, the deal is not lost. 

Art. 33. — The partner of the dealer is to collect the cards 
for the following deal, and place them on his right. 

81 



WHIST ACCORDING TO DESCHAPELLES. [PART III. 

If he neglect this duty before the turn-up card be seen, the 
deal is lost. 

Art. 34. — -The dealer's adversary, who, during the time 
of his dealing, shall touch the cards dealt him, or the pack 
intended for the following deal, loses for himself, and causes 
his partner to lose the rights conferred by Articles 29 and 
32. 

Art. 35. — Before the hand is commenced playing, (see 
Article 129,) should there occur any mixing of the cards ; 
if any mistake, or irregularity in the number of cards, arise 
from the fault of the dealer; the deal is lost. 

If these mistakes be occasioned by the adverse party, or by 
any other cause, there must be a new deal. 

Art. 36. — The fifty-two cards having been regularly dealt 
out ) the last, which is the trump card, must remain turned 
up before the dealer.— (See Articles 80 and 115.) 

Art. 37. — If a card is faced in the pack, even if it be the 
last, there must be a new deal. 

Art. 38. — Should a player deal out of his turn, if it pass 
unnoticed until he has turned the trump card, the deal holds 
good. 

Art. 39. — No one has a right to change the cards, (except 
as provided in Article 38,) but each player may, at his own 
expense, take a fresh pack. 

SECTION HI. — OP IRREGULARITIES IN THE HANDS AND THE 

PACKS. 

Art. 40. — After the trump card has been turned, and be- 
fore the lead, (see Article 35,) any irregularity in the hand? 
will be rectified according to the provisions of Article 133. — 
(See Articles 43, 44, and 48.) 

Art. 41. — If, after the lead, a player find that he has one 
less than his proper number of cards, and the missing card 
be found in his adversary's hand, the deal is lost. 

Art. 42. — If the missing card be found in his partner's 
hand, the adverse party has a right to claim the provisions 
of Article 127. 

N. B. — This error is corrected by drawing indiscriminately from the 
upper part of the hand, one card to complete the hand which has one 
deficient. 

82 



PABT ni.] HIS LAWS AND REGULATIONS. 

Art. 43. — If a hand be found short of its complement, and 
the missing cards be discovered on the ground or elsewhere, 
(except as specified in the Articles 41, 42, and 45) the miss- 
ing cards shall be placed on the table with the faces upwards. 
(See Articles 127 and 131.) 

Art. 44. — If the missing cards cannot be found, they shall 
be searched for by some one not engaged in the game ; and, 
when found, laid on the table, except as provided in Article 
45. (See Article 131.) 

Art. 45. — If the missing cards be found in the tricks which 
have been played, 

It causes a revoke. (See Article 47.) 

Art. 46. — A hand having too many cards, except in cases 
specified in Articles 41 and 42, constitutes a revoke. (See 
Article 47.) 

Art. 47. — The revoke (Articles 45 and 46,) is marked at 
the moment when claimed ; the other circumstances of the 
deal are annulled. (See Articles 107, 127, 131.) 

Art. 48. — If the pack of cards be faulty, the deal in which 
it is discovered, is null, -though the previous ones hold good. 
(See Articles 49.) 

Art. 49. — A pack of cards is faulty, when it contains more 
or less than fifty-two cards ; or when there is a duplicate card 
in the pack. 

This is a circumstance which should not be passed over by 
those interested in the game, without strict inquiry. 

SECTION IV. — OF THE STAKES, AND OP THE SCORE. 

Art. 50. — The rubber, which is two out of three games, is 
reckoned at four points ; the party who first win two games, 
gain the rubber. 

Art. 51. — The game consists of ten points ; when no points 
are marked by the losing partners, it is treble, and reckons 
three points ;* double, if one, two, or three points be marked ; 
and single, when more than four. 

Art. 52. — When six tricks have been made, (le devoir ,) 
each trick afterwards made, counts for one point. 

Art. 53. — If the whole thirteen tricks are won by one side, 
it is called a slam, and is equal to a full rubber (ten points.) 

There is nothing marked for the game. 
* This is called a lurch 

83 



WHIST ACCORDING TO DESCHAPELLES. [PART m. 

Art. 54. — Four honours count four points ; three honours 
count two points only. 

Art. 55. — Tricks count before honours, except as specified 
in Article 68, and in cases where one party is entitled to the 
call. 

Art. 56. — The points gained by one side can only be 
marked by one of the players. 

Art. 57. — In the event of two partners marking the game, 
and their score not agreeing ; when the second trick has been 
turned, their adversaries, on noticing the error, may insist on 
which score they choose being retained. 

Art. 58. — Points neglected to be marked before the second 
trick has been turned, are lost. 

Art. 59. — If a player, by mistake, mark more points than 
he is entitled to, he has the right of correcting the error at 
any time before the termination of the game. (See Article 
135.) 

SECTION V. THE HONOURS. 

Art. 60. — Honours are to be announced audibly; those 
marking them, without signifying that they have them, and 
who do not rectify their error before the second trick is 
turned, must take them off their score. (See Article 133.) 

Art. 61. — If a player hold four honours, it must be an- 
nounced, or rectified within the delay specified in Article 60, 
on pain of losing two points out of four which should have 
been marked. (See Article 133.) 

Art. 62. — Honours cannot count, unless they have been 
announced or marked before the trump card of the following 
deal has been turned up. 

Art. 63. — They cease to count when a party is in the well, 
that is to say, when at nine, and have only one point to win 
the game. (Except as provided in Article 68.) 

Art. 64. — At the point of eight, the party who hold more 
than two honours in their hands, win the game on showing 
them. (See Article 66.) 

Art. 65. — At the point of eight, he who has two honours in 
his hand, has the privilege of calling; if his partner reply by 
showing one honour, the game is won. (See Article 66.) 

Art. 66. — If the honours are shown, or called. 
1. At any other point of the game than at eight 
84 



PART III.] HIS LAWS AND REGULATIONS. 

2. Or after a card has been played; they are not counted, 
and must be turned up on the table, and considered in the 
light of exposed cards. 

Art. 67. — If a player call without having two honours in 
his hand, or reply without holding one, the adversaries will 
have the rights conferred by Article 127. 

In case of correction, if cards are shown, they must be 
turned up on the table as exposed cards. 

Art. 08. — If a player call without having two honours, and 
if it so happen that three or four honours are in the hands of 
his adversaries, the latter will become possessed of the rights 
conferred by Article 127. 

And in case they avail themselves of them, all the honours 
will count before the tricks. 

Art. 69. — The call must be made so as to be audible to all 
at the table ; a player endeavouring to call so as to be heard 
only by his partner, will be liable to the penalties laid down 
in Article 127. 

Art. 70. — At the point of eight, when the trump card has 
been once turned up, if a player tell his partner not to forget 
to call he is subject to the regulations of Article 127. 

Art. 71. — When a player calls, and his partner refuses to 
answer, although he has the power, they cannot gain a slam. 
Honours take their usual place. (See Article 55.) 

Art. 72. — If, when the round has commenced, (see Article 
129,) a player discover who holds the honours, and make 
known his observation, he will be liable to the provisions of 
Article 127. 

SECTION VI. — EXPOSED CARDS. 

Art. 73. — Cards seen by your partner, and not played im- 
mediately, shall be turned up, and laid on the table. 

Art. 74. — A card intentionally drawn out from the hand to 
more than half its extent, (see Article 133,) will come within 
the meaning of Article 73. 

Art. 75. — When a card is exposed, the adverse party have 
the right — 

1. Of either demanding or refusing its being played; 

2. Or of demanding that the highest or lowest card in 

the suit shall be played. (See Article 76.) 
Art. 76. — An exposed card may be called for several 

9 85 



WHIST ACCORDING TO DESCHAPELLES. fPART III. 

times, and does not become free until it shall have satisfied 
either one or the other of the provisions of Article 75. (Sec 
Article 85.) 

Art. 77. — A player having a card exposed, if it be his turn 
to play, or to lead off the trick, (see Article 85,) may demand 
the card to be called for, but should wait until the trick 
which precedes it be put in its place, and the hand removed 
from it. 

Art. 78. — A player having a card exposed, if his right- 
hand adversary play without calling for the card, is at liberty 
to play what card he chooses. (See Article 85.) 

Art. 79. — If a person play more than one card to a trick, 
his adversaries may choose which of them shall remain on the 
table, (see Article 123,) and can cause the others to be placed 
as exposed cards. 

Art. 80. — The turned-up, or trump card, should be left in 
view on the table until the first card of the second trick has 
been played. But if it be not taken up before that trick is 
finished, it must be considered as an exposed card. (See 
Article 115.) 

SECTION VII. — CARDS PLAYED OUT OF TURNS, AND OP THE 



CALL FOR THEM. 



Art. 81. — A lead made out of turn holds good, when the 
party, whose proper turn it was to play, has led, or played to, 
the following trick. (See Articles 119 and 120.) 

Art. 82. — If the player, whose turn it was to play, (Arti- 
cle 81,) claim his right in time, he will have the choice : 

1. Of approving of the card played; 

2. Of considering it as an exposed card ; 

3. Or of calling for a particular suit, either for that or 

the following trick. (See Article 119.) 
Art. 83. — A person playing his card out of turn, his part- 
ner having already played ; the adverse party may consult 
upon taking or leaving it. 

Art. 84. — If a person play his card out of his turn, and 
before his partner has played, the adverse party may demand 
of the latter his highest or lowest card in the suit played ; 
and, in default, trump or not trump. (See Articles 85 
and 88.) 

Art. 85.— If a card be played too precipitately before the 
86 



PART III.] HIS LAWS AND REGULATIONS. 

call ; (see Articles 77, 78, and 84,) the card thus played shall 
be also considered as an exposed card, and subject to the call. 
(See Article 119.) 

Art. 86.— In case of two parties leading simultaneously, 
Article 82 is applicable to the player who is in fault; (see Ar- 
ticle 119 ;) if both be wrong, the one fault cancels the other. 

Art. 87. — A party having a suit called for, which he does 
not hold in his hand, may play as he chooses ; the fault in 
this case is atoned for. (See Article 88.) 

Art. 88. — A player called upon. 

1. For his best or worst card, and consequently trump 

or not trump ; 

2. Or to play a particular suit; must obey, and in 

default, will be considered to have made a revoke. 
(See Articles 107 and 109.) 

SECTION Vni. THE REVOKE. 

Art. 89. — A revoke is made, when a player having in his 
hand a card of the suit led, does not play it. (See Article 
107.) 

Art. 90.— The revoke is complete : 

1. When the trick in which it has occurred has been put 

in its place, and the hand removed from it ; 

2. Or when the party who has revoked, having the lead, 

has played a card for the next trick. (See Article 
118.) 

Art. 91. — The demand of the partner, made in time, if 
replied to, annuls the revoke ; only as far as the fact is un- 
perceived by the adverse party. 

Art. 92. — A player perceiving in time that he has made a 
revoke, may take up his card, and must play his best or 
worst card, at the option of the adverse party ; besides which, 
the card taken up is to be considered as an exposed card. 
(See Articles 75 and 119.) 

Art. 93. — The side which has made a revoke, loses three 
points for each revoke. 

Art. 94.— The adverse party profit by the revoke, in one 
of the three following ways : 

1. By adding three points to a score; or 

2. By deducting three points from their adversaries' score, 

(or all their points, if they have less than three ;) 

87 



WHIST ACCORDING TO BESCHAPELLES. [PART HI 

3. Or in taking from them three of their tricks. (See 
Article 104.) 

N. B. — They cannot, however, divide their advantages by, for instance, 
adding one and a half points to their own score, and deducting one and a 
half from that of their adversaries. 

Art. 95. — Those who claim a revoke, are bound to prove 
that it has occurred. (See Article 117.) 

Art. 96. — The revoke is proved, by pointing out the trick 
in which it has occurred. (See Article 117.) 

Art. 97. — The revoke may be claimed the moment it is 
perceived to have been made, but cannot be established and 
marked for, until the expiration of the deal, except as pro- 
vided in Article 107. 

Art. 98. — Those who have made a revoke, on playing to 
the end of the deal, may gain enough points to save them- 
selves a double or a treble. 

Art. 99. — Those who might gain by their own score, may 
take advantage of the revokes of their adversaries, to put 
back their score, and gain double or treble. 

Art. 100. — Those who can claim several revokes, may make 
use of some to add to their own score ; and of others to di- 
minish the score of their adversaries, but without dividing 
them. (See Note^n Article 94.) 

Art. 101. — Should a revoke not have been claimed, (Ar- 
ticle 97,) and the four hands are played out, the tricks may 
be thrown together, and the revoke is cancelled. 

Art. 102. — Before a player loses his right, (Article 101,) 
by playing his last card, if he suspect a revoke has been 
made, he may put down his card, and require that the other 
players should do the same. 

Art. 103. — If any one (Article 102,) cause a confusion in 
the lost trick, and afterwards be not able to draw his own 
card, he shall be considered to have revoked. 

Art. 104. — The penalty for one or more revokes, cannot 
be inflicted until the deal is quite finished, or at least within 
one trick of it. (See Article 94.) 

Art. 105. — The side making a revoke, can neither count ft 
slam, nor win the game in the deal in which the revoke is 
made; they must remain at nine, " in the well," if they have 
made points enough to reach it or pass it. 
88 



PART m.] HIS LAWS AND REGULATIONS. 

Art. 106. — Should revokes be made by both parties, even 
though the numbers of them be not equal on both sides, there 
must be a new deal. 

Art. 107. — In the event of revokes by assimilation, (see 
Articles 45, 46, 88, and similar,) the provisions of this Sec- 
tion 8, are in all respects applicable, as far as they may con- 
cern them, unless otherwise specially provided for. 

Art. 108. — At the end of the deal, a revoke cannot be 
claimed. — (See Articles 127 and 131.) 

SECTION IX. — INTIMATIONS BETWEEN PARTNERS, AND OF 
THEIR LIMITS. 

Art. 109. — The right of asking questions rests entirely 
with your partner, and may be used for avoiding or alleviating 
error. 

Art. 110. — " What are trumps V " Draw your card." 
" Can you not follow suit V* " I think there is a revoke." 

The above remarks, or those analogous, are the only ones 
allowed to be used, and they only by the person whose turn 
it is to play. 

Art. 111. — During the continuance of the deal, nothing 
beyond what is allowed by the rules of the game should be 
said or done, which may be detrimental to the interests of the 
adverse party. — (See Article 116.) 

Art. 112. — A winning card can only be played as any other 
card. — (See Article 116.) 

Art. 113. — No player may draw his card for his partner 
unless he require it. — (See Articles 110 and 116.) 

Art. 114. — No player is allowed to look at the tricks taken 
up, except the last. — (See Article 116.) 

Art. 115. — After the second trick is turned, and the trump, 
or turn-up card has been taken up, it cannot be named or 
shown. — (See Articles 80 and 116.) 

Art. 116. — In case of any violation of the Articles 111, 
112, 113, 114, and 115, the adverse party has the right of 
demanding a new deal. 

SECTION X. GENERAL RULES. 

Art. 117. — In taking up the tricks, it is essentially neces- 
sary that they should be placed in distinct order, under pain 
of being condemned in case of dispute. 

9* 89 



WHIST ACCORDING TO DESCHAPELLES. [PART III 

Art. 118. — A player wholly detaching a card from his hand 
in order to play it, or intentionally throwing down his hand, 
is considered to have played. — (See Articles 74, 90, and 124.) 

Art. 119. — In case of cards being played precipitately or 
unintentionally ; — 

From the party in fault, those which shall not be played 
for the trick shall be considered as exposed cards, (see Article 
82) ; if otherwise, they shall remain at the disposition of the 
party to whom they belong. 

Art. 120. — If one side take up a trick belonging to the 
adverse party, the right of recovery holds good until the end 
of the deal— (See Articles 81, 130, and 135.) 

Art. 121. — A player who is able from the cards in his hand 
to make the rest of the tricks, may throw down his hand. — 
(See Article 124.) 

Art. 122. — Should a player say, "I can win the rest;" 
" I have won the game;" or make signs to that effect, his 
hand shall be thrown down. — (See Article 124.) 

Art. 123. — Should a player, from any cause whatever, show 
more than half the cards he holds in his hand, his hand shall 
be thrown down. — (See Article 124.) 

Art. 124. — A player having thrown down his hand, his 
partner must do the same ; then one of the two hands at the 
option of those who shall have made the error, shall be played 
at command ; the exposed cards shall still remain so. 

Art. 125. — If a player throw down and give up his cards, 
and his adversary throw his cards on them, the round is at an 
end. 

Art. 126. — If a deal become very much disordered, through 
the fault of either side, or from any other cause (see Article 
133,) there must be a new deal. 

Art. 127. — If the confusion alluded to in Article 126, 
proceed from one side only, the adverse party will have the 
choice : 

1. Of retaining the same hands, and rectifying the error : 

2. Or of having a new deal. 

Art. 128. — In case of a new, or a lost deal; the deal can- 
celled is considered as not having taken place, with regard to 
circumstances not specified. 

Art. 129. — A lead is begun when one party has played to 
it.— (See Article 130.) 
90 



PART in.] HIS LAWS AND REGULATIONS. 

Art. 130. — The game is finished, when one side having 
gained it without dispute, the cards are reunited in one 



miss. 



Art. 131. — With regard to a fault of any kind, the oppo- 
site party have the following rights : — 

1. To look for revokes if there have been any; 

2. Or, waving the infliction of any penalty, to demand 
that the deal be rectified, and played according to the 
rules of the game. — (See Article 127.) 

SECTION XI. — BYSTANDERS. 

Art. 132. — In all cases of dispute, the bystanders shall act 
as umpires. 

Art. 133. — In case of complaint of those interested, a ma- 
jority of the bystanders will decide upon the fact, that the 
law, if necessary, may be applied to the case. 

Art. 134. — If any difficulty arise, which cannot be settled 
by the rules, the case shall be stated, (see Articles 132 and 
133,) and the parties concerned shall oe free to choose their 
own arbitrators. 

Art. 135. — If any points be marked, which have not been 
gained, it is the duty of the bystanders to mention the cir- 
cumstance, and to have the error rectified. 

Art. 136. — During the continuance of a deal, the by- 
standers are forbidden, either to warn a player of a fault, to 
refresh his memory, or, in fact, to say or do anything which 
may favour the players. — (See Article 139.) 

Art. 137. — Questions relative to the game, (Articles 110 
and similar,) are not allowed to be asked by the bystanders. 
—rSee Article 139.) 

Art. 138. — No bystander has a right, either, 

1. To walk round the table at which the game is play- 
ing; 

2. Or even to place himself so as to be able to look over 
two hands. — (See Article 139.) 

Art. 139. — In case of any violation of these preceding 
articles, the players who feel themselves aggrieved, have the 
right, (see Articles 132 and 133,) of rendering the person in 
fault responsible, and placing whatever loss may have arisen 
to his charge. 

91 



WHIST ACCORDING TO DESCHAPELLES. [PART ITL 

THE PRINCIPLE OF THE LAWS OF WHIST. 

SECTION I. PRELIMINARY OBSERVATIONS. 

Rules are to games what laws are to society j they are those 
enactments, the infringement of which entails penal infliction. 

Rules, however, from a variety of causes, either from a 
desire of perspicuity, or from a weak or erroneous conception 
in principles, have, in all sciences, become so multiplied, and 
so mixed up with precepts which should be wholly separated 
from them, that they have served only to fatigue attention by 
their bulk, and to distort all natural principles of logic and 
equity. 

Without attempting to evade the difficulties of our position, 
we shall venture to lay down the following maxim : — Law will 
never be perfect until it shall contain nothing but what is 
sanctioned by authority. 

There are two great obstacles to the enforcement of a law 
of this kind ; one proceeding from the party required to sub- 
mit to it, and the other from the legislator himself. 

But where shall we find one who seriously applies himself to 
the rules of a game ; and who engages, of his own accord, in 
a pursuit, the more difficult on account of its apparent futility ? 

Where shall be found a majority of individuals, who are 
willing to submit their learned acuteness to the tediousness 
of repetitions ; who will patiently endure a concise brevity, 
and employ their intellectual powers in unravelling difficul- 
ties; and who will condescend to relax from their logical 
gravity, and admit reforms and innovations, in order to arrive 
by degrees, at the solution of perplexities ? 

We will venture to affirm that the second of the two par- 
tics above alluded to, does not exist. If it did, of what use 
would be the former ? He would in vain labour to produce 
a work of no utility, and which, rejected by the world, might 
moulder for years in his desk without any chance of ever 
being brought to light. 

Having offered these excuses to succeeding generations, 
and made this appeal to corrections whenever their want 
shall be felt and acknowledged, we profess to work for those 
who will avail themselves of our labour ; to save the indolent 
the necessity and tediousness of research ; in fine, to exert 
ourselves to form a compendium, which shall be independent 
92 



PART III.] HIS PRINCIPLES AND DIRECTIONS. 

of other works, and deemed a sufficient authority on the sub- 
ject. Here, as in other cases, we shall conform to relative 
circumstances, following, at the same time, the direction of 
that absolute power which we assume to ourselves in matters 
in which our skill is acknowledged. 

The nineteen Articles of which this first section is com- 
posed are only directions ; but their importance, the necessity 
of rendering them authentic, and the tendency to confusion 
which it is their office to repress, have induced us to bring 
them forward, and invest them with all the powers of law. 

When once out of this Section, it will be seen how reli- 
giously we shall adhere to principles, and should the reader 
again meet with any directions, he must excuse them, in con- 
sideration of their fewness, and the light they throw upon the 
articles of law which follow them, and with which they are 
connected. 

DIRECTIONS. 

Articles 1, 2, and 3. — Four persons are seated at the table, 
And the game is arranged ; nevertheless, the table is not com- 
plete and perfect ; there is an integral portion of it waiting 
for their turn ; there are two prepared to take their seats, 
with the same rights and privileges as those already seated ; 
and behind these there is a number of candidates anxiously 
waiting to take their part in the contest. This ensures it a 
long continuance, and prevents the least abatement of the 
excitement arising from the game. Neither fatigue, nor 
absence, nor even discouragement, throws a damp on the 
scene, or allows the slightest traces of langour to appear. 
The ranks are constantly filled up without allowing a moment's 
interval of rest, and fresh combatants, animated with a noble 
ardour, successively present themselves to seize the weapons 
and continue the contest. 

Such are the resources of the game of Whist as it has been 
established. Such is its life, its movement, and its pleasures. 
If to these be added the social interests alluded to in Chapter 
I., that ardour for the game which renders us indifferent to 
the person of the party rilling the first vacancy at the table, 
provided he plays ; and who, in the midst of hopes and 
dangers incident to all, makes us forget all misplaced pre- 
judice, we shall be compelled to admit that this game has 

93 



WHIST ACCORDING TO DESCHAPELLES. [PART III 

been invented for the delight of man, since it affords him a 
no less useful than agreeable pastime. 

Articles 4 and 5. — Thus, after the termination of the first 
rubber, chance decides the right which every person has to 
play two successive rubbers. This is only necessary at the 
beginning ; it is the fertilizing principle, it is like the power 
of water, or the force of steam, which gives life and energy 
to the machine, and sets it in motion. 

We have admitted, as a general principle, the rights of a 
party to play two consecutive rubbers, although in some 
societies it is otherwise arranged. The winners remain, and 
the two losers resign their seats. This is a means of checking 
extensive losses ; convenient enough when a desire of gain is 
the ruling passion in the game, but very misplaced when the 
game is considered in a proper light, merely as a pastime. 

Art. 6. — The drawing is of importance, whether it be the 
means of procuring the partner wished for, or of conferring 
the advantage of the deal. 

In order to avoid confusion, one pack of cards only is to be 
made use of; therefore, a card drawn from another pack is 
useless, and recourse must be had only to the pack chosen. 

The pack should be laid on the table untouched, several 
cards cut successively, and the bottom one shown. By cut- 
ting neatly from an entire pack, the least suspicion of having 
selected a card is avoided, and by immediately showing the 
card cut, a lesson is given to those who are less inclined to be 
polite. 

Art. 7. — In the drawing among six persons, the holders of 
the four lowest cards commence the first rubber, and the other 
two cut in for the one following. If a greater number of 
persons be concerned in the drawing, as the complement for 
the table is only six, the others take their turn in the succes- 
sion and order determined by the cards they have drawn. 

At the second drawing, the holders of the two lowest cards 
become partners. Here a difficulty may sometimes occur, but 
one which ought not to produce any serious discussion. 

Suppose three persons draw each an ace, and the fourth a 
deuce. A fresh drawing takes place between the holders of 
the three aces, the deuce loses the deal and becomes the 
partner of the highest of the next drawing. This is the just 
and reasonable decision of this and all similar cases. 
94 



PART III.] HIS PRINCIPLES AND DIRECTIONS 

Art. 8. — The rule is, that the person who draws the lowest 
card becomes the dealer. The ace, although highest in play- 
ing, is conventionally considered the lowest in cutting. 

We disapprove extremely of all ceremonious etiquette in 
the player who has the privilege of choosing his seat. Let 
him take his seat promptly, for the politeness he wishes to 
show to one individual, operates to the annoyance of the other 
party in the game, who are waiting for his being seated to 
take their places. 

A certain prince is said to have made the following sensible 
remark, " Promptitude is the politeness of kings." The 
drawer, therefore, of the lowest card, possessing for the time 
being the rights of royalty, his prompt decision dispels all 
anxiety, and removes every idea of subjection to his will. It 
is the custom without its abuse. 

Art. 9. — The right of choosing a seat can be acquired, and 
should be enforced only in the sense of the game : the mo- 
ment this right shall have been made use of by the dealer 
taking his place, the said right becomes extinct. The rules 
will not allow of the revival of this privilege from any change 
of mind or caprice in an individual ; they will not permit 
three persons to be disturbed or removed. 

Art. 10. — It frequently happens that drawing by lot occu- 
pies a considerable time, in consequence of cards of equal 
value being cut, either for choosing the players to commence, 
or for determining the partners, or for choosing places. This 
causes a momentary delay to which every player should sub- 
mit with a good grace, because it tends to decide a question 
of equal importance to all parties, and because it is unavoid- 
able. But for a player purposely or uselessly to prolong that 
delay, or wilfully to offer unnecessary obstacles to the pro- 
gress of the game, is not to be endured. 

Articles 11 and 12. — A game should not suffer interrup- 
tion from the absence or wilful negligence of parties cutting 
in, neither should the exclusion of the latter appear to have 
been effected precipitately. 

As soon as the rubber is over, the parties next in order of 
succession should be called ; if they do not immediately an- 
swer the summons, the parties present may immediate^ 
proceed to form another rubber ; the time which elapses 
between the rubbers in changing places or pari ners, with the 

95 



WHIST ACCORDING TO DESCHAPELLES. [PART ITI 

addition of a few minutes' grace, which continues to the mo- 
ment of turning the trump card, is surely amply sufficient to 
allow of parties cutting in, who may then be at the farthest 
extremity of the room, to reach the table and prevent the 
forfeiture of their turn. 

Art. 13. — Whist tables may be said to be regulated in 
degree by the amount of stakes ; every player approaches that 
table at which his circumstances may allow, or his taste may 
incline him to play; therefore, whoever has been in thehabjt 
of joining a certain whist party, soon becomes acquainted 
with its company, and consequently soon knows the amount 
of stakes that the company play for ; in the same way, his 
habits of play are soon known to the other frequenters of the 
table ; his presence is, therefore, equivalent to an inscription 
on the list of players. This is so much an established cus- 
tom, that when one person enters the room after another, he 
hardly ever thinks of applying to cut in until the latter has 
declined. That which has been acknowledged as an estab- 
lished rule of etiquette, we have laid down as a fixed law. 

Art. 14. — It has often occurred at the close of a rubber, 
that a player has found himself the winner of a much larger 
sum than he had expected ; or, which happens still more fre- 
quently, he has discovered that he has been playing higher 
points than would have suited him had he been aware of 
their price, and has consequently complained of his losses. 

The rules declare, that the party cutting in shall, on taking 
his seat at the table, inquire the price of the points ; and 
that the said party has no right to find fault in that particu- 
lar, provided the stakes be no higher than is customary. 

Art. 15. — It may occur, from motives more or less justifi- 
able, that one of the players refuse to sit out the rubber. 

The rules have provided for this case, by preserving for 
such a player the full enjoyment of his rights, till he be again 
able to join the table. 

Art. 16. — This Article comes within the limits of Article 
15, except with regard to extreme cases; every player should 
be lenient, and willingly make allowances for an unforeseen 
incident which may cause a momentary interruption, and 
which may happen that very evening to himself; he should 
be indulgent to others, since he may, at some fiture period, 
stand in need of indulgence for himself. 
96 



PAUT in.] PRINCIPLES. — THE PEAL. 

We shall here explain a case, the minor importance of 
which has not allowed of its being stated sooner. 

Before the. partners are drawn for, can a p 3rson give up his 
turn to another, and still retain the privilege to take his turn 
afterwards ? 

We answer, he certainly can, provided the person who 
takes his place be one of the six required to compose the 
table. 

Art. 17 & 18. — To justify the admission of Article 17, 
it is necessary to have witnessed how far every other feeling 
is sometimes sacrificed to an insignificant point of personal 
interest. 

Article 18 is a corollary which fully fixes and determines 
its signification, and definitively silences all argument. 

Art. 19. — A turning table, or one in which the partners 
are changed at stated intervals, may be considered as a close 
game, to which no one can be admitted. 

It is formed under certain peculiar circumstances ; these 
are, when only four players are present, and there is no hope 
of a fifth to relieve them ; in which case, in order to avoid 
that the same partners should play opposite each other 
throughout the evening, certain regulations for changing 
partners should be determined upon instanter. This, in case 
of need, will be a very convenient expedient and will provide 
the table with a resource within itself, which can be no longer 
expected from without. But if a fifth player arrive, the case 
alters, and the game should be as soon as possible made sub- 
ject to the standing rules. 

SECTION n. — THE DEAL. 

The deal is the distribution of the cards ; a mere mechani- 
cal operation, but sometimes one of great fatigue, and at- 
tended with much annoyance. 

It is often accompanied with mistakes; one party from 
innate awkwardness is liable to continued errors; another, 
perhaps, from some natural infirmity or stupidity, for we musk 
not expect to find the intellect and talents of the Lyceum at 
a Whist table. 

The deal gives two advantages to the dealer, the trump- 
card, and the last play. The first is calculated mathematically, 
the second depends upon circumstances. The former pos- 

10 97 



WHIST ACCORDING TO DESCHAPELLES. [PART III 

6esses a positive value, whilst the latter is enhanced or di- 
minished by various causes, and particularly by the cards 
held by the leader. 

Before proceeding to the consideration of the Articles, we 
would again repeat our earnest advice that all discussion be 
discontinued from the moment the deal commences, that the 
former deal be reconsidered, that the points marked on both 
sides be examined, and that the dealing of the cards be 
watched, in order to avoid, as well as profit by, the faults 
made by the adverse party. At a later period of the game 
there will not be so much time to repair the effects of negli- 
gence, and attention will be drawn into another channel. 

Art. 20. — Cards are shuffled because they are new, to re- 
move any symmetrical arrangement of them; or because 
each trick taken up being of the same suit, the cards should 
be mixed ; we shuffle the cards by way of distraction, and 
from pure habit. „• . 

The pack is presented to be cut, because it is the usual 
practice. 

Abstractedly, these two operations of shuffling and cutting 
may be considered as reciprocal guarantees ; although but 
little attention is paid to this fact by players who only prac- 
tise them mechanically. 

The necessity of the cut is not entirely arbitrary, it is evi- 
dently reasonable ; we cannot suppress it as a guarantee, nor 
leave it optional without rendering it in some measure inju- 
rious, by being at one time used, and at another rejected. 

It is not the same with regard to the shuffle ; that is a 
power which every one has a right to partake of, and the cut 
is used as a last resource. The adversary, who has collected 
the cards, has also shuffled them before putting them in their 
place ; if the dealer be therefore satisfied, and present them 
in that state to be cut, what can there be said on the subject ? 
To require a person, against hi3 inclination, to perform an 
action which is perfectly useless, is an act of tyranny; the 
game already recognizes a sufficient number of commands, 
without introducing those which are superfluous ; we disap- 
prove of any tendency of this kind, and, if that demand were 
replied to, we think it would imply great rudeness iu the per- 
son demanding. 

We have seen a person who, after availing himself of bis 
98 



PART III.] PRINCIPLES. — THE DEAL. 

right of shuffling the cards, required the dealer to re-shuffle 
them, and for that purpose presented him with the pack re- 
versed. The latter asked for fresh cards, and the hint was 
taken, for the other never repeated the act. 

We should be continually on our guard against any feeling 
of ill-temper which may lead us to transgress the rules of 
good breeding. If we are the first to act wrong, we shall 
bear all the blame. 

Art. 21. — A cut is called irregular when it is not made by 
the dealer's right-hand adversary. 

The cut is enforced by rule; it is the business of the law 
to regulate its mode, and to punish its omission. 

The acknowledgment of this power of the law which con- 
cerns the cut, is a matter of some consequence, for frequently 
its irregularity does not strike us until we see the turn-up 
card or our own hand. 

In case of complaints (which do not so often occur,) it will 
be necessary, even in so insignificant an affair, to quote some 
precedent to obtain a judgment. (See Article 133.) 

Art. 12. — The cut is not clean if there be any hesitation or 
awkwardness in performing it. It is not clean if one card be 
dragged after the rest ; the cut should be made neatly, and 
the cards fairly lifted up. 

Art. 23. — A cut must beat least to the depth of four cards, 
the number composing a trick. This is the custom at all games. 
Some limit must be fixed, and this is as easily adopted as any 
other : besides, it could not well be fixed lower ; if only one 
card were cut, it might be suspected that it had been seen. 

In this, as in the preceding article, the dealer should de 
clare his right before he avails himself of it; that is, if he 
would not run the risk of losing his deal, which must neces- 
sarily ensue, if any dispute should arise, and the matter be 
referred to the decision of the bystanders. 

Art. 24. — The right of shuffling the cards is a guarantee 
which belongs equally to each player. 

The proper way to do this is, to shuffle them over the table, 
and not to allow the whole of the pack to be, at one time, in 
the Land. 

Art. 25. — If we were to show the turn-up or trump card, 
at the moment of cutting, it might operate to the disadvan- 
tage of those who have made bets during the deal. Some 

99 



Whist according to desohapelles. [part ill. 

even go so far as to request a delay in the turning of the 
card, which is granted them by placing the card aside, and 
not allowing it to be seen by any one. 

If the turn-up card be accidentally seen, the deal holds good, 
and must continue; this may be scarcely worth mentioning, 
for we can hardly conceive how such a thing can happen. 

By the old regulations, when it was permitted to show the 
turn-up card in cutting, we have seen players endeavour to 
discover it, and even stoop during the deal, to catch sight of 
it. This practice was then attended with no inconvenience, 
but is no longer allowed by the rules of the game. 

Art. 26. — As the dealer has no right to show the turn-up 
carl before it is turned, he has still less right to look at it 
himself. He is then more guilty than another in yielding to 
a spirit of cavilling ; he deserves a more severe punishment, 
and we have inflicted it on him by making him lose his deal. 

Art. 27. — By accepting the cut, you have abdicated your 
claim, and have no longer any rights to exercise ; fulfil then 
the task which falls to your lot as mechanical distributor, 
with all its risks and perils ; if you are inattentive and care- 
less in the fulfilment of your duty, you will pay the penalty 
for it. 

If the cards be shuffled when the right of doing so is passed 
by, and if they be dealt in that state, the dealer is answerable 
if I hold bad cards ; for I am not satisfied that I have received 
the cards which properly belong to me; if a new deal ensue, 
the same blame will be attached to the dealer, added to the 
delay caused by his want of dexterity. Was the card which 
you have turned up the one really cut ? There is too much 
interest attached to this question, to allow a doubt to exist of 
the identity of the trump card. 

Arts. 28, 29, and 30. — These three articles we shall con- 
dense into one. 

Article 28; it is merely a precept, and affects the progress 
of the game ; Article 29, appears here to establish the rights, 
and Article 30, as the deciding judge. The matter of these 
articles is interesting, and should be regulated with exactness. 

In whatever manner the deal be made, it is necessary to 

pay attention in dealing, that each player may feel convinced 

he has taken up the card which properly belongs to him. 

From the moment the slightest doubt exists, the law comes 

100 



PAST in.] PRINCIPLES. — THE DEAL. 

into operation. The question which is addressed to the by- 
standers (Article 133), is as explicit as its answer ; it affects 
the three divisions laid down in the article, and many other 
cases which maj' arise from peculiar circumstances. It is 
essentially necessary to lay every possible obstacle in the way 
of innovations which bad taste may introduce. We are even 
justified in rendering assistance to the delinquent, if it will 
prevent a repetition of the fault. 

Art. 31. — If a card be seen, owing to the fault of the party 
dealing, application must be made to the provisions of Article 
32 ; if a second card be seen from the same cause, the deal 
is lost. If it were otherwise, it might happen that the dealer, 
taking advantage of Article 34, would withdraw as many 
cards as he thought proper, without making himself liable to 
be called upon for a new deal. 

One card dealt irregularly, may be either right or wrong. 
As long as the irregularity is confined to two cards, the error 
is easily rectified ; but when it extends to three, the possi- 
bility of correctness becomes doubtful, and the established 
rule is, that the deal is lost. 

It frequently happens, that, in consequence of some inter- 
ruption, the dealer loses the thread of his deal. The rules 
of the game will not allow him to touch the different hands 
in order to correct his mistake, and the only resource he has 
is to judge by his eye, or to continue the deal with the chance 
of finding himself right. 

Sometimes the turn-up, or trump card, is thrown down 
without being turned up or shown ; this card is of such im- 
portance, that the punishment of making the deal lost cannot 
be dispensed with in this case. 

Art. 32. — As long as the deal is in hand, the option of con 
tinuing it, or re-shuffling the cards, remains with the dealer 
in case of any irregularity arising on the part of the adverse 
party. In fact, the latter have nothing to attend to on the 
table, and it is, on the contrary, to their interest that mis- 
takes should occur, which must be to their advantage. 

Art. 33. — Deals out of turn frequently arise from the pack 
for the following deal being improperly placed. Habit, which 
becomes with us second nature, ends by being the ruler of all 
our minor actions ; we find a pack of cards on our left hand, 
and we naturally make use of them ; however, there is an 

10* 101 



WHIST ACCORDING TO DESCHAPELLES. [PART III 

injury done ; where then is the delinquent ? He is easily 
pointed out ; it is he whose duty it was to collect the cards 
and place them in their proper position, and as a just punish- 
ment for his unpardonable negligence, he loses his deal. 

This penalty makes players careful, and becomes a reward 
for attention to the game ; for those who fail ta this respect 
incur a loss of their right, conformably to the provisions of 
Article 38. 

The point in question is properly discussed at the end of 
the rubber, when the bets are being settled, and before the 
players have begun to move from the table. 

During the round, the question u who dealt V* is not per- 
mitted, although parties may be much interested in knowing 
it, in order to direct them, either with regard to their lead or 
their play. If the cards be misplaced, you are thereby led 
into error. Sometimes necessity refreshes the memory, and 
the thing is rectified. Our rules have an equal tendency to 
punish negligence, and to favour the exercise of the memory. 

Art. 34. — He who is compelled to deal, and who is pun- 
ished for the slightest irregularity by the loss of an advantage, 
should be subjected to no annoyance, and guaranteed from 
all interference. 

It is the duty of the dealer's partner to collect and shuffle 
the cards for the following deal ; with this the law has no 
concern ; but if he proceed further, and take upon himself to 
correct the deal, it is to his own disadvantage, and that of 
the party with whom he is jointly responsible. 

Art. 35. — In principle, it is admitted that the dealer may 
cancel th« deal, but that this right is not enjoyed by his 
adversaries. 

The deal lost by one party is to the advantage of the other ; 
whatever may be the cause of it, the forfeit must be paid ; it 
is the general custom, and established practice. 

Art. 36. — It is singular enough that the plan of dealing 
out an entire pack of cards one by one, should have been ever 
adopted. It is sometimes a great fatigue, and one which has 
been imposed on a class of persons who would willingly dis- 
pense with it, as we show by our observations on the deal. 
This plan, to say the truth, possesses no advantage, it even 
exposes the card U> be seen, on account of then being singly 
separated. 
102 



PART m.] PRINCIPLES. THE DEAL. 

The rule of leaving the turned-up card before you, is de- 
termined by the application of the law in Articles 80 and 
115. 

Art. 37. — " Cards seen, cards thrown down." This is a 
proverb, it is a general practice, and, in order to deprive it 
of its efficacy, or to admit of one single exception to it, there 
must be adduced at least twenty reasons to one. 

According to the old rule> should there be in the pack a 
faced card, which from the cutting has become the trump 
card, the cut held good. This rule was made to save time, 
and also for this reason, that as the trump card was intended 
to be seen, its original position was immaterial. Experience 
has taught us that when a card has been found turned in the 
pack, it is possible so to manage the deal as to make that the 
trump card. It was then in the dealer's power to give one 
card more chance than another; this was unjust. Let us, 
therefore, abolish this irregularity, and return to the prin- 
ciple, which we believe we shall have the credit of reinstating, 
since custom has already repealed this Article among players 
who pride themselves on understanding the logical principles 
of the game. 

Art. 38. — A player has a right, if he choose, to allow his 
deal to be taken from him \ but never, designedly, to take 
that of others. 

Art. 39. — As a whist-table is furnished with two packs of 
cards, it was necessary to decide whether their use should be 
regulated by caprice or by some established rule. If, for in- 
stance, it should happen that, from caprice, each party make 
use of the same pack, one will be used, whilst the other will 
remain untouched. It was more natural that the packs should 
be used alternately ; the rule intervened, and the change was 
prohibited. 

When in playing with the same cards, we have lost several 
games in succession, we at length conceive a sort of antipathy 
to them, and if we were not allowed to change them, we 
should probably quit the table. We are then allowed to take 
new cards. It is useless to endeavour to restrict this privi- 
lege, as it may be rendered necessary by the destruction of a 
single card. 

Perhaps it would be convenient to change the cards even 
oftener than is usually done. At short whist, cards which 

103 



WHIST ACCORDING TO DESCHAPELLES. [PART ID 

have been played during six rubbers are thrown aside ; this 
is an article or regulation which I recommend. 

The phase, or change, is severely prohibited by the English j 
I know not what reason they have to complain of it, nor what 
harm it has done them. Before 1814, the French phased ; 
at present it is not done ; and it is well that the custom is 
discontinued. 

SECTION III. — IRREGULARITIES IN THE HANDS AND THE 

PACKS. 

As soon as the cards are all dealt out, each player takes up 
the hand which belongs to him. In this, as in all other 
acquisitions, it seems proper that our first care should be to 
acquaint ourselves with what we have obtained possession of; 
we arrange them according to their suits, or, at least, sort 
them in the manner we are accustomed to ; the essential point 
being to impress them well on the memory. We have seen 
players who hold their cards in their hands just as they have 
taken them up from the table, and, if this mode lead them 
not into error, we consider it the best. We have seen others 
who sort their suits so carelessly as to be heedless of the notice 
of others, or whether their adversaries may be thus made 
acquainted with a part of that of which they ought to be 
ignorant. Another goes still farther ; with the greatest can- 
dour and sang froid, he places each colour by itself, either 
invariably in the same position, or in accordance with a sys- 
tem, the key to which is very easily discovered. Thus he 
classes the cards according to their sizes or value, he then 
carefully turns the court cards, so that the figures may appear 
to stand on their legs, as if he feared that by keeping them 
with their heads downwards, they might be attacked with a 
fit of apoplexy ; he next proceeds to turn all the spades, the 
hearts, and clubs, as if afraid that the points might be broken 
by being improperly placed ; not suspecting that, during all 
these preparations, his actions are noticed by others; that 
«very other player at table has, for some time, finished arrang- 
ing his hand, and that the round has commenced. At length, 
the visionary begins by saying, with the most unaccountable 
indifference, "Gentlemen, draw your cards." Thus, from 
being absorbed in a childish operation, in a sort of mono- 
mania, he enters on the business of the game, not only with* 
104 



PART in.] PRINCIPLES. — OP IRREGULARITIES. 

out the preliminary knowledge so necessary for success, but 
with the great disadvantage of having, in a manner, exposed 
his own game to his adversaries. 

When it is an adversary who acts in this manner, it is 
needless to avoid looking at him ; it is useless, from an affec- 
tation of modesty, to endeavour to keep the eyes averted from 
his hand ; in spite of ourselves we become initiated into the 
knowledge of facts. But when it is our partner who acts in 
the way above mentioned, and who thus acts in spite of the 
looks of those who are well disposed to profit by his impru- 
dence, we have more cause for despair. 

After the final arrangement of the cards, comes the plan 
of the campaign. Every one should have a plan of some sort, 
good or bad. No one should ever play a card without some mo- 
tive for it. This motive must proceed from a principle common 
to all players ; the knowledge of the strength or weakness of 
our own hand, and of suits of which it is composed. 

After these two important and general operations are 
finished, i. e. the arrangement of the cards, and the plan of 
playing them, we can scarcely imagine that a player, so far 
and so well instructed in the game, should not perceive 
whether he have in his hand more or less than his proper 
complement of thirteen cards ; and that he could enter into 
action, without having reviewed his forces, and acquainted 
himself with whom he is to contend ; this, however, has hap- 
pened, and not unfrequently. We mention the fact, in order 
that parties may guard against so serious a fault. 

Art. 40. — This article treats of irregularities which may be 
noticed during the short interval between the turning of the 
trump card and the lead ; it is necessary to offer to the atten- 
tive player a possibility of escaping the serious consequences 
of a fault to which it is probable he has not been, in the least 
degree, accessory. This interval begins for him when he takes 
up his hand, and this he may be compelled to do precipi- 
tately, by the hurry with which his partner plays his card. 

Art. 41. — When once entered into the spirit of the contest. 
a sort of passion takes possession of the combatants. The 
vicissitudes of fortune and the agitation of the struggle make 
them forget all the minor details of the game ; but which, 
however, should never be lost sight of by the player, since a 
neglect of them would end in the destruction of all his labour 

105 



WHIST ACCORDING TO DESCHAPELLES. [PART in. 

and all his projects. Of these details a register should be 
kept in his memory ; from the moment he sits down to play, 
he should bestow a part of his attention upon the peculiar 
circumstances arising out of the game he is playing, and 
which should be considered apart from the action and pro- 
gress of the game itself. 

Art. 42. — There is here a double fault, and on the same 
side ; the punishment should therefore be exemplary. The 
law, which is suspicious and severe, will regard only the in- 
tention and connivance ; nothing can destroy the spirit which 
appears to form part of its essence ; it does not take into con- 
sideration the cards of the guilty party who would have won 
the game, if one of their hands had not been found to contain 
a card which was missing in those of their adversaries. 

The application of Article 127, excludes the right of look- 
ing for revokes which may have been previously made. 

Arts. 43 and 44. — The moment a player perceives that he 
has not his proper complement of cards, he should quietly 
look around him, and search wherever there is a probability 
of their being found. If he succeed, we are aware that he 
will still be liable to the danger of having made a revoke, in 
consequence of the absence from his hand of the cards which 
he has recovered, but revokes themselves often escape obser- 
vation, particularly if nothing is said or done to direct atten- 
tion to the subject. 

But if the player do not succeed in finding the missing 
cards, if there be no means of avoiding the difficulty which 
arises on calling for the assistance of the bystanders, still it 
would be far more desirable to decide the point at once, than 
to suffer the mischief to be increased by delay, and to incur 
a severe punishment, in that penalty which is the inevitable 
effect of several revokes. 

In the case of Article 44, any one not engaged in the 
game, may take upon himself to examine the other pack, 
which stands close to the tricks, and, in case of need, to pro- 
cure the missing card from any pack whatsoever. 

Art. 45. — It may be easily ascertained whether the missing 
cards are in the tricks which have been turned, by counting 
the tricks without turning the cards, and if five cards instead 
of four be found in one of the tricks, there arises a strong 
presumption that the party who finds his hand short of one 
106 



PART III.] PRINCIPLES. — OF IRREGULARITIES. 

card, has played two cards to a trick. To rectify this fault 
in the spirit of Article 127, is rather difficult ; it would be 
necessary to turn all the tricks, which is expressly forbidden 
by the rules ; it would involve an endless discussion on which 
card should be played, and which should be taken back ; it 
would be even necessary to recommence the deal ; by which 
proceedings, the memory, as well as the tricks, would be dis- 
turbed. And after all this labour, we might not escape one 
or perhaps several revokes, as authorized by Article 131. On 
the other hand, if we do not explicitly provide for the case, 
it would then be possible for a bad hand to make that deal 
good, which would be otherwise lost. 

Art. 46. — What penalty should be inflicted on him who 
has his hands full of cards, when the hand of the three other 
players are exhausted ? Can he have forgotten to play to 
some of the tricks ? or has he taken up the tricks or the 
neighbouring pack to mix them with his own hand ? If he 
has not played to the trick, it is a bona fide revoke \ if he 
has mixed the cards, he loses his turn to deal. When any 
one has involved himself in such a dilemma, he may congra- 
tulate himself at escaping from it at the price of a revoke. 

In a case of importance, the adversaries may have recourse 
to Articles 127 and 131 : the rights acquired by the first of 
these Articles are often of greater value than the acquisition 
of three points ; when, for instance, a strong hand would have 
put you three to nine by the application of a revoke, whilst 
it leaves you nothing to nothing, by causing a new deal, 
without taking into consideration the possible acquisition of 
the deal. Article 131 interposes its assistance, and ratifies 
Article 127 in a case of great importance, or of a slam, which 
a revoke would have prevented. 

Among practised players, the faults alluded to in Articles 
45 and 46 should but very rarely occur. No rule has hith- 
erto been laid down to meet these exigencies. The loss of 
the game ought to be a sufficient punishment for them. To 
remedy this want, we have neglected no means in our power 
to supply the deficiency. 

A case of a very singular nature, relating to Article 46, 
was once referred to our arbitration. One party held the ace 
of trumps ; and the others, notwithstanding, wished to make 
a slam. 

107 



WHIST ACCORDING TO DESCHAPELLES. [PART m 

It must be understood that, in a trick containing five cards, 
in which the ace had become accidentally mixed, those who 
demanded the rectification of the error, thought they had a 
right to choose which of the five cards should be returned to 
the hand, in order to make up the complement. 

Art. 47. — These revokes are privileged, and are marked im- 
mediately. As to the time when they are made, their value, 
and the manner of benefiting by them, we refer our readers to 
the provisions of Section VIII. Whatever may be the number 
of cards which has occasioned the confusion, the penalty is not 
increased or doubled in proportion, but remains the same. 

Arts. 48 and 49. — If a pack of cards be faulty, from con- 
taining more or less than 52 cards (which is of rare occur- 
rence,) he who deals first will scarcely fail to detect it, unless 
fearing that he has committed a mistake and will lose hi3 
deal, he distributes the last cards at hazard. In all cases, as 
there will be too many or too few cards, it is probable that 
the correction will immediately take place. 

The pack may also be faulty, when it contains a duplicate 
card. This error is not so easily detected as the other, and 
may long remain undiscovered. In fact, if the duplicates are 
of trifling importance, they will, on the one hand, escape 
those who count the cards of a suit, and on the other, those 
who will not see them together. Suppose a pack contains 
two fours of spades, instead of a four and a five ; this is un- 
important, and might remain long undetected. At length 
they are played together, and immediately perceived ; yes, 
and ten to one that it has not been the best player who has 
first made the discovery. This affair has been often made a 
subject for a joke, and perhaps a bystander would be wrong 
to interfere in such a case. We have seen it carried to great 
lengths; the players certainly were very unskilful, but it was 
strange that out of four players, not one should have dis- 
covered the defect. It lasted a long time, and would have 
continued much longer, but for the shouts of laughter from 
the lookers-on. For two hours the party had been playing 
with two packs, one of which had no aces, and the other no 
kings. It was amusing to hear the discussions at every round 
on the odd trick and the honours ; at every moment they ap- 
peared on the point of discovering the deficiency, and then 
again their attention was diverted into another chauno 1 
108 



PART III.] PRINCIPLES. — THE STAKES AND SCORE. 

These precedents hold good ; the rule is ancient, and uni- 
versally applied. If we refuse to acknowledge it, we must 
go back to the Flood. The game is finished. (See Article 
130.) It is the same for every round, except when specially 
provided for otherwise. 

SECTION IV. — THE STAKES AND THE SCORE. 

Before mentioning the faults committed under this head, or 
entering on the penalties which they involve, it will be proper 
here to detail the general system of the game, and to deter- 
mine what arc the means we employ, and the object we wish 
to attain. It is necessary to explain the technical terms ,* a 
Rubber, a Game, a Trick, a Slam, and the Honours ; also, 
how these are acquired : and when acquired, how they are to 
be made use of. All this will be treated of in Sections 4 
and 5. 

With regard to all these objects, a system and an authority 
which shall be universally acknowledged is requisite for the 
general interest, so that no change of place or country may 
involve the necessity of a fresh apprenticeship to acquire a 
knowledge of the game. These points will be therefore found 
laid down in a law, and by a system which should become 
universal and obligatory. 

There are some places where the rubber pays only two 
points ; others where the game counts only two points ; others 
where the slam is reckoned as the half of a full rubber, and 
counts for the game ; others again, where the penalties are 
not fixed, and where the customs of the game appear to be 
regulated only by that spirit of contradiction and caprice 
which is so common, and so much to be regretted. 

At length, sound principles, receiving the sanction of good 
society, gradually prevail, and obtain ascendancy as soon as 
they become thoroughly explained and understood. 

This, therefore, seems to be the point at which we have 
now arrived; general opinion is directed towards a system to 
which it unanimously appeals, and which, when found, it 
proclaims aloud, and acknowledges as genuine and undoubted 
authority. 

Art. 50. — An English dictionary has defined a Rubber to 
be " a game, revenge, and the whole." To say the least of 
it, this is a truly singular definition ; it is incomprehensible 

11 109 



WHIST ACCORDING TO DESCHAPELLES. [PART III. 

to us, and we should even say that it is the definition of a 
person who has never made one at a whist table. This, 
however, does not astonish us ; it is of a piece with what 
we witness every day, and in every species of business. It is 
a great chance that a work is confided to one specially devoted 
to it. This reminds us that in the edition of 1788, of the 
dictionary of the French Academy, the definition of the word 
u beefsteak/' is laid down as a " mutton chop broiled on a 
gridiron." 

The rubber is the winning of two games out of three ; every 
nation in which the game is played understands the term iD 
this sense. When one game has been won on each side, a 
third is required to decide the rubber ; if, on the contrary, 
the two games have been won by the same side, the rubber is 
finished, and a fresh one is commenced. 

This then is what is expressed by the word Rubber. Ne- 
vertheless, it would seem to imply something more, other- 
wise we should not have introduced the word into our 
language, which is repugnant to the admission of synonymous 
terms, and which requires a rigorous reform in many of those 
words which it has admitted. A rubber means two out of 
three consecutive games. 

Art. 51. — Strictly speaking, a fish might have been fixed 
as the value of each point ; games might then have been 
gained against the point of nine, which would have counted 
only one point, and other (lurches) which would have been 
worth ten points. It would be necessary to raise considerably 
the value of the rubber, to prevent the winning party finding 
themselves, notwithstanding, losers ; the result of this would 
be, a great difference in the gain or loss of different rubbers ; 
it would be necessary to win twelve or fifteen rubbers to com- 
pensate for one which had been lost ; we should no longer 
know for what we were playing, nor to what loss we were 
exposed ; and when any one was heard to say, " I have lost 
or won four rubbers," it would not be known whether he had 
lost or won 8 points, or 120. 

The present arrangement was admirably conceived ; it 
creates no alarm in the minds of amateurs by the prospect of 
aggravated extravagance, at the same time that it leaves them 
room to hope for alternatives of sufficient variety to prevent 
monotony; it appears that it has been admitted, with a da- 
110 



PART III.] PRINCIPLES. — THE STAKES AND SCORE. 

sign of preventing heavy losses. One fault which has been 
found with it, is in our opinion a positive recommendation, 
that is, that in certain cases, the winning of one game mav 
increase the loss of points. We see nothing to object to in 
the fact, that while the interest is kept up, and the rubber is 
not finished, the chances should multiply and increase in fa- 
vour of a sudden change of fortune. 

The word lurch is a term used in backgammon ; in passing 
into other games, its signification is a little changed ; it ia 
used when the losing partners have not made one point, i. e. 
when they have lost everything that can be lost. 

Art. 52. — A trick at whist consists of four cards played 
consecutively. 

We count as tricks, those levees which are won after six 
have already been made. Each trick then counts one point ; 
thus he who has taken up nine levees, counts three tricks, or 
three points. The word levee in this case used is only as a 
periphrasis, and we may say : we are three by tricks, as we 
say two by honours, which in fact signifies, that we have 
gained that number of points by tricks, or by honours. 

The word " duty" (devoir,) applied to the complement of 
tricks necessary to be made before we can gain the odd trick, 
is a happy expression ; the application carries with it the 
precept it implies, that we have something to reproach our- 
selves with when we have not attained that point, and that 
our efforts must be redoubled to prevent our being deprived 
of it. 

Art. 53. — The Slam is considered of the same value as a 
full rubber, on condition that it shall not count in the game. 
This custom we have adopted, at the same that we are per- 
fectly aware of the varieties introduced at different places. 

As long as Whist had no written laws, every one regulated 
the game according to the dictates of his own caprice. In 
some places they count five honours, others, twelve tricks are 
reckoned a slam ; in a third, in IS Ambogue for instance, no 
traces of the original game can be recognized ; and it would 
be a thankless and dangerous task to attempt to enumerate and 
follow the various deviations to which it has been subjected. 
It is high time that this sublime game should have a fixed 
and invariable form, and we repeat our exhortations to ita 
numerous and intelligent amateurs, to rally round our laws, 

111 



WHIST ACCORDING TO DESCHAPELLES. [PART ID 

and not to suffer the slightest deviation from them to be. at- 
tempted. 

Art. 54. — Every honour counts one point ; this is a gene 
rally admitted practice. If we hold four honours, by a simple 
inference, we consequently mark four points. When we hold 
three honours, two points only are marked; here instead of 
one deduction, two are necessary ; we may be supposed to 
calculate thus : " from three honours which I hold, I must 
substract one which is held by my adversaries, and I mark 
only two." 

Art. 55. — The discord of principles between chance and 
skill is not at an end; law, occupied by other subjects, re- 
turns at intervals to lend assistance to one and the other 
alternately. Article 55 pronounces the opinion op«nly in 
favour of skill — it declares that the properties of the latter 
give it a decided superiority over its enemy. This is the least 
that can be expected when there is a question of making the 
trick, which is the result of reflection, and which, though it 
may sometimes yield to the breath of fortune, is always pre- 
pared to take every advantage, and will not fail to recover its 
superiority if the struggle be continued. 

Moreover, the same Article 55, probably with a view to 
favour the contest, and that an adversary may not be imme- 
diately driven to despair, admits two restrictions ; by the call 
it abridges the privilege of the trick, and by Article 68 it 
limits to finessing. 

Art. 56. — This is the established rule of the game; it pre- 
vent, remark, and silences bad temper. 

Art. 57. — The inconvenience attending any difference be- 
tween two scores of partners, is a strong argument against the 
practice, and in favour of one score only. We are, however, 
by no means inclined to lay this down as an arbitrary law. 

With respect to the disarrangement of the scores, a ques- 
tion arises which it is necessary to solve. 

" If during a round, the two scores should become confused, 
are the points lost V 

If one score alone has been strictly marked, and a second 
be afterwards set up and not regularly kept, any concession 
of the former to the latter, must be a matter of voluntary 
compliance ; but when two scores, made according to rule, 
and progressing together, are found to disagree, justice must 
112 



PAKT III.]. PRINCIPLES. — THE SCORE. 

be done. Should one player wish to establish that three 
points have been gained, although his partner has marked 
only two, the rule is positive on the subject, two points alone 
can be marked, and those must be scored immediately, or 
otherwise the penalty may be doubled, if it be put off until 
the termination of the game ; as the point becomes the odds, 
if the point should stand at eight to nine. 

Art. 58. — Points, from whatever source they may arise, 
should strictly be considered as lost, unless marked at the 
moment they are made. There is the following weighty rea- 
son in support of this rule ; that the players combine their 
efforts, and regulate their play according to the points which 
they see marked. In fact, different combinations are favour- 
able to different modes of play, which may very materially 
prejudice a person unacquainted with his adversary's play. 
The fault will then operate in favour of the party forgetting 
to mark his game, and to the disadvantage of his adversary, 
which is just the reverse of the principle we wish to establish. 
However, by delaying until the turning of the second trick, 
that fatal moment when points neglected to be marked, are 
lost ; and by allowing forgetfulness or distraction, a respite 
which reason does not strictly command, we have thought 
proper to conform to the old law, and the customs to which it 
has given birth. This law has determined that honours are 
lost, unless declared before the next lead ; but in the event 
of their being declared, it specifies no period at which it shall 
no longer be allowed to mark them. That period cannot pre- 
cede the lead, for that is close on the turning of the trump 
card. By extending the marking of every sort of point to 
the end of the second trick, we have chosen that which we 
consider the fairest course, and which seems to meet every 
exigency of the case. 

Art. 59. — Here the case is quite different; there is no 
longer a question of harmless omission, this is an encroach- 
ment which must be vigorously repressed. We call it an 
encroachment, for truly it does not deserve a more severe 
appellation, to judge by the thousand times that we have 
witnessed its occurrence. Nevertheless, however innocent it 
may really be, we must not allow the forgetful or ignorant to 
retain possession of what they have improperly acquired. 

11* 113 



WHIST ACCORDING TO DESCH U>ELLES. [PART lit 



SECTION V. THE HONOURS. 

In its original state, Whist was a four-handed game, in 
which, in admitting only the hierarchy of the cards in their 
order and class, two players were matched against two 
others to decide which party should gain the greater number 
of tricks. 

In this simple state the game existed for a long period, the 
favourite pastime of the cooling portico and the magnificent 
saloon ; there appeared no intention or opportunity of adding 
to it any embellishment worthy of its fame. It was not till 
it had passed its infancy, and had attained the mature age of 
manhood, that it was invested with the additional charm of 
the trump, and received successively those other attractive 
accessories, the honours, the call, &c, &c. 

The trump is an ancient invention ; and is found in most 
games played with cards. Sometimes a whole suit is invested 
with its power, sometimes its authority is restricted to one 
single card, which then appears as a type of civil power, and 
like a magistrate entrusted with the preservation of public 
order. The term " honour" is applied to the game of Whist 
only, and although of such ancient date, it would appear as 
belonging to a more advanced stage of improvement. It is 
so well chosen, and so happy an expression, that it has been 
admitted or adopted in all countries. The terms, "the 
call" and "the well" (point of nine) are simple, but full of 
meaning. If the latter in some languages is considered a 
homely expression, we must at any rate allow it the merit of 
being most expressive of a place from which there is but one 
outlet. 

Art. 60 and 61. — It may appear a hard case, that a player 
who holds the honours and marks them, should still be liable 
to be deprived of this advantage, because he has not announced 
them. He might object, that his marking them is a stronger 
proof that he holds them in his hand, than if he had merely 
announced them. — No, the law is explicit, and the rule has 
been infringed. "Your law," rejoins he, "is not common 
sense ; it is full of contradiction and absurdity : the rules 
impose silence on the players, and yet require them to an- 
nounce facts." To this we reply, that our law is perfectly 
equitable. If honours be marked which are not held, the 
114 



PART m.] PRINCIPLES. — THE HONOURS. 

custom of the game does not allow the adversaries, even if 
they perceive it, any opportunity of retaliating ; they can 
only oblige the party in fault to take them off their score ; 
thus no equilibrium is established with the case in which they 
are not seen. The law, thus forced to yield to custom, has 
employed every means in its power to prevent the commis- 
sion of injustice ; it has declared that honours shall be audiblj 
announced, and publicly marked ; it has prevented all clan- 
destine and underhand dealing ; and, to obviate the possibility 
of unjust possession, it has subjected the privilege to the 
prescribed formalities of the game 

Art. 62. — This is a general practice; and however unrea- 
sonable it may appear, the law must be obeyed. It would 
have been desirable to have but one period fixed for deciding 
the points ; for instance, " when the trump-card is once seen, 
whatever points have not been marked, are forfeited :" or, 
when the second trick is taken up, &c. 

This latter rule is an introduction of our own, and we shall 
have occasion to speak of it hereafter ; though of so short a 
duration, its functions are of considerable importance. When 
no received custom, or habitual practice, is formally acknow- 
ledged, the authority of the law is paramount : but when an 
unjust decision results from universally-received opinions, it 
then becomes our duty to labour hard to correct them, and 
thus promote the advancement of the game. For want of 
courage to declare, that parties marking honours improperly 
shall be liable to the penalty of retaliation, we have been 
drawn into several articles, which must be well studied in 
order to avoid confusion. 

Art. 63. — " The well" (the point of nine) is a fashionable 
embellishment, which belongs to the decorations of which we 
spoke at the beginning of this section. An intellectual 
embellishment, when considered in connexion with the 
assistance which it renders to good players ; since it offers 
them a port of refuge against all the storms of fortune, with 
a means of self-defence proportioned to the strength of some 
players, or of the weakness of others. A rational embellish- 
ment, in regard to the distinction between even and odd, 
this being the only point at which the honours are compelled 
to stop short in their career. An original embellishment, in 
which point of view it has become inherent to the game of 

115 



WHIST ACCORDING TO DESCHAPELLES. [PART in. 

Whist, which it accompanies through all its deviations. At 
Short Whist its power has not been curtailed ; it has there 
even increased; it there conies into action ten times in an 
hour instead of once, and there acquires a different degree 
of importance ; for by a skilful defence of the single point, 
it gives the possibility of winning the game with a moderate 
hand in the following round. 

Art. 64. — The rule of the game says, that honours are 
counted only at the end of a round or deal ; but in this case 
the party at the point of eight, holding three honours, mark 
them, and win the game without playing. This is an excep- 
tion, and is another embellishment. It would appear strange 
that the game of Whist does not so strongly insist upon the 
application of this rule, as it does upon that of the former. 
This is to be accounted for only by that extraordinary perver- 
sion of the mind which attaches itself more closely to its own 
caprices, than to its rational desires. 

The call is not known at Short Whist. Some pretend that 
the scope of the game is so confined, that there is no room 
for its introduction ; others see in this arrangement an effort 
of reason and sagacity ; of reason, as far as it is a proof of 
virtue to relinquish our inventions when no longer necessary ; 
of sagacity, inasmuch as the call, which holds the balance 
between the odds and " the well," become superfluous and 
useless at the moment when the latter is as it were filled up 
by the making of five points, which deprives it of all its 
resources of power and extent. 

Art. 65. — By an extension of the advantage granted by 
Article 64, the holder of two honours is authorized to call ; 
if his partner answer to the call, the object is obtained, and 
the game won. But if his partner cannot answer, a great 
disadvantage has arisen to the party calling, because it has 
discovered to his adversaries the state of his hand. This 
circumstance, and that of the slam, are the only reasons 
which would prevent a player from calling; he fears that his 
hand, which is already weak, may be still further weakened 
by a disclosure of two cards. Without rejecting this view of 
the case, we think this occasion very rarely occurs ; and we 
add that it should not be attempted but by a first-rate player. 
We have witnessed a game lost by three or four tricks which 
might have been gained by the call, and even if the game b« 



PART m.] PRINCIPLES. — THE HONOURS. 

not lost by this means, it involves a loss of points, because it 
favours the adversities winning a double or a treble. 

The term " call," (perhaps the day is not far distant when 
it will disappear in Long Whist) is used to signify the an- 
nouncement in an audible voice that we hold two honours. It 
is the only positive indication permitted, for all other demands 
or intimations are expressly forbidden, since they are liable 
to different interpretations, and may materially affect the 
interests of the adverse party. 

Art. 66. — The rule of the call, which at a specified time 
grants an enjoyment by anticipation, evinces at the same time 
great jealousy of all encroachments; it seems to fear that its 
invention would not be sufficiently appreciated, if permitted 
to be attached to any thing else which might be confounded 
with it. 

The fixing a time after which the call is not allowed, was 
a matter of necessity ; it might indeed be deferred, but that 
would increase the advantages of the party who ought to call, 
and the law has not permitted it; delay would also have 
caused confusion by raising an uncertainty. In fact, if too 
great a latitude were permitted, if the call were allowed after 
playing, it would follow that each party being at the point 
of eight, he who held two honours would defer calling as long 
as possible, with the view of allowing his adversary to call, 
should he by chance also hold two honours. Procrastinating 
and temporizing modes of attack are the very antipodes of 
Whist, and would produce frequent dilemmas similar to the 
one above mentioned. 

Calling at any other point of the game except at eight, is 
so flagrant a breach of all rule, that necessity becomes the 
common law of the case. 

The two cases pointed out in the Article, have not appeared 
to us of extreme importance, and we have refrained from the 
application of Article 127. 

If a player announce two cards in his hand, it amounts to 
an exposition of them, and they must therefore be turned up on 
the table , the loss of their value is to be added to the account 
of their importance, and to the intention which has caused 
the fault. 

To call after having played, is a fault of slighter importance 
and ought not to be often punished. Nevertheless, the laws 

117 



WHIST ACCORDING TO DESCHAPELLES. [PART m. 

are here transgressed, though the punishment should not b« 
too severe. The rule would have no limits, if separate articles 
were required for every case. 

Art. 67. — A player holding only one honour might call, 
and his partner might answer with one or two ; 2nd. he might 
call through mistaking the colour of the trump card ; and his 
partner, from the same error, might answer the call. We do 
not enter into all the varieties of this fault ; the errors arc 
similar to the one just mentioned, and the results the same. 
Article 127 provides for all cases, the more particularly as it 
must have been remarked, that we are not scrupulous in 
the application of penalties incurred by all faults of what- 
soever nature. 

The right of demanding a new deal, conferred by Article 
127, is only optional ; if a party will not avail themselves of 
the privilege, the deal must be taken up and played. It is 
difficult to apply to the rule for the mode of rectification. 
There are a thousand different ones if we could detail them. 
In these cases, we must refer to Article 133, and the equit 
able application of its principle. 

Art. 68. — We have frequently been an eye-witness to this 
fault, and it has always appeared to us to proceed from mis- 
taking the suit of the trump-card. Independently of the 
case before quoted, where the game was lost through negli- 
gence, it would cause a serious prejudice during the playing 
of the round, if it were not severely punished. At the point 
of eight, the adversaries would not call ; and at every other 
point they would play badly, from mistaking the situation of 
the strong cards. 

The error would not be discovered till the middle or the 
end of the deal ; then, with every motive for applying it, the 
powers of Article 127 for a new deal, would be rarely found 
satisfactory. Nevertheless, those persons who would wilfully 
lead others into error, though their intentions be not always 
crowned with success, and their intended victims escape the 
snares laid for them, should indemnify those whom they would 
have led astray, and should suffer a punishment in proportion 
to their fault. Now, it is not easy to determine upon a pe- 
nalty proportioned to this exigency. This is the excuse we 
offer those who would find fault with the innovation intro 
duced by our article : we beg then to remark,— 
118 



PART III.] PRINCIPLES. THE HONOURS. 

First, that the law is paramount in cases which are not 
entirely ruled by custom. 

Secondly, that we are not opposed to natural tendencies, 
since, in playing whist in which ten points made the game, 
those who marked six and held two or three honours, were 
entitled to the call; and, 

Lastly, that we favour the spirit of the game which is pro- 
digal of chances in the colour of the trump, and which seems 
inexhaustible in combination. 

Having made this defence of our principles, we have no 
fear of explaining our intended innovation to its fullest ex- 
tent. We are of opinion that honours should count at all 
points of the game, even when the party holding them mark 
nine ; that to win the game they should take precedence of 
tricks made by the adverse party ; and that in all other cases, 
they should be admitted as mitigating the loss of the van- 
quished. 

On the other hand, as we think our conduct perfectly jus- 
tified, we shall not make a bad use of our triumph, and by 
way of consolation to the loser, we may hint that the first of 
the above-mentioned cases is of very rare occurrence ; that 
the circumstances which make it appear so alarming, are still 
less frequent ; and there is no great reason to fear for that 
which can happen but by mere chance, and which may be 
considered as an almost impossible coincidence. 

Art. 69. — The understanding between partners forms the 
very spirit of the game, and the basis of all improvement ; 
the law protects and encourages them, provided their conduct 
be legal and impartial. The telegraph is at their disposal — 
let them work it, and draw from it every possible advantage ; 
but let the signals be open and apparent, and the key to it 
always on the table, within reach of those who wish to make 
use of it in all its bearings. This same law abhors every- 
thing approaching to clandestine dealing, and provides against 
forgetfulness ; for, on the slightest apparent symptoms of 
distraction, it fails not to awaken our attention and strengthen 
the memory ; and it reminds us that, at no great distance, 
there is an abyss into which our negligence may plunge us 
headlong. 

Art. 70. — The appearance of the turn-up card is the signal 
for action, and puts an end to all conversation. The game is 

119 



WIIIST ACCORDING TO DESCHAPELLE8. [PART DX 

again put in motion ; all distraction disappears, and the at- 
tention of the players is redoubled. 

The rules applied to the deal before the trump-card is 
turned, differ from those which affect the round when once 
begun. Cards turned during the deal authorize a new deal, 
whilst those shown afterwards are exposed on the table ; the 
same occurs where the packs are incomplete, or faulty. 
When the trump-card is turned, honours which have not 
been announced, are lost. The turning of the trump, there- 
fore, is a critical moment, which gives birth to a new era in 
the game. 

In the old law, we find no prescription with regard to points 
forgotten to be marked. If the honours have been declared 
in time, but neglected to be scored, or if tricks have not been 
marked, till what time does the law extend the power of 
marking them ? In discussions which have arisen on this 
subject, for want of being able to quote one article of law on 
the case, the delinquents have always ended by assuming the 
points in dispute ; and we have seen, even in the middle of 
a round, a neglected score recover three or four points, by 
tricks or honours, in this manner. The prej udice in this case 
to the adverse party is evident, for they, seeing nothing 
marked, have regulated their play accordingly ; and the mo- 
ment the new score makes its appearance, they find their 
whole system of play disturbed. This result, .which creates 
an advantage from a fault, and consequently is directly op- 
posed to the spirit of the game, has obliged us to establish a 
limit beyond which no points forgotten to be marked can be 
recovered. 

Art. 71. —There can be but one motive in not replying to 
the call ; that of gaining a slam : the law will not allow this 
to exist. This act, thus deprived of its effect, comes under 
the denomination of caprice ; the adversaries have so much 
the less reason to complain of it, as by waiving this privilege, 
they are in a position to make profitable tricks. 

Art. 72. — To intimate to our partner during the deal that 
" we have the honours," is the same as if we said : " in order 
to win the game, we must gain so many tricks ; therefore 
manage your game, and do not seek to gain more than suffi- 
cient to attain that point." To say to him : " we have not 
;he hoiours," " our adversaries have or have not the honours," 
120 



PART in.] PRINCIPLES. — EXPOSED CARDS. 

is the same as making any other remarks ; it is exposing oui 
hand to him, and amounts to a consultation, which the rule 
of the game strictly prohibits. 

At whist, no- remarks are permitted but those which are 
necessary and indispensable to the progress of the game. 
Thus, when there is an obstruction in the play, it is natural 
for a player to exclaim : " Whose play is it V &c, but we 
earnestly advise all players to refrain from many other re- 
marks frequently made during the play : the following for 
instance, " I play a heart," " It is my play/' "I will not 
take it," " I take it," and all such expressions, which, though 
they appear inoffensive, we highly disapprove of; we even 
think that they are susceptible of being denounced and pun- 
ished, as tending to convey hints between partners. 

SECTION VI. — EXPOSED CARDS. 

The law of the game is very strict with regard to shown 
cards ; and nevertheless, cases occur every day which do not 
appear to us to be punished with sufficient severity. A card 
is shown either intentionally or through awkwardness ; it may 
either serve to discover the weakness of a hand, or it may not 
be of any material consequence. It appears unjust to apply 
undue correction to this fault, but on the other hand, too 
great lenity will encourage speculation, which it is of the 
greatest importance to repress by every possible means. It 
would be inconvenient to make it an affair of conscience, 
because it would be so often excused on the score of error : 
besides, those cases which occur in what is called playing a 
fine game, invariably affect the interest of those who possess 
the greatest modesty and delicacy ; and it is therefore a tax 
from whiah the law cannot deliver them but by severity, and 
a rigorous and constant application. 

Art. 73. — In two-handed games, that is, where parties are 
single, if cards be shown through awkwardness or finesse, an 
adversary has no right to call for them. On what grounds 
could he acquire that right? No one is prejudiced except 
him who exposes the card, and it is the adversary who de- 
rives advantage from the fault. 

But in playing at games with partners, circumstances are 
materially altered. If you have shown your cards from spe- 
culation, it is very evident that you will expose those only, 

12 121 



WHIST ACCORDING TO DESCHAPELLES [PART HI 

the discovery of which would produce no advantage to your 
adversaries, but would convey important information to your 
partner. We do not pretend that what we here state is ex- 
actly true as regards the fact, but we maintain that the prin- 
ciple is incontestable. 

It has been established — That an exposed card may be 
called for ; but that if there be a mistake made in the card, 
1st. That card shall be considered free ; and, 2nd. The error 
Bhall give the right of a new deal, or the loss of one point. 

Thus, on a four being shown, but quickly recovered, if the 
party seeing it, and unfortunately mistaking it for a five, 
under that impression call for it as such, not only do they 
lose their rights, but they become involved in a multitude 
of dangers and penalties, that are equivalent to a loss of the 
game. 

This is really absurd. We have had no difficulty in ex- 
punging such a law from all the societies that we have fre- 
quented, and we hope that these remarks will everywhere 
expose its inconsistency. 

To return to the rule; we approve of indulgence in all 
doubtful cases; we will even make every conscientious allow- 
ance for awkwardness ; but if the error be intentional (see 
Article 74,) or if a player should have evidently availed him- 
self of his partner's fault, no favour should be shown. 

Art. 74. — Whenever a card is drawn out, a partner may 
see it, either from its transparency, or from his own peculiar 
keenness of sight. The law declares, that to constitute the 
fault, the card must have been drawn out to more than half 
its extent, because some line must be drawn, and a discussion 
upon whether two-thirds or three-fourths of it were exposed, 
would be puerile. The word intentionally must also be 
justly appreciated, to provide for cases of accident or awk- 
wardness. The rule is more particularly directed against 
undecided players, who mix up all their cards together ; de- 
tach, sometimes, three or four at a time, and are long in de- 
termining on what card they will play. 

Art. 75. — There is no universally established rule with 
regard to cards which have been shown ; every society intro- 
duces its own customs, and scarcely a day passes but we are 
consulted on difficulties or disputes arising from this question. 
We believe that qui article will fix the law on this point; 
122 



PART in.] PRINCIPLES. — EXPOSED CARDS 

id the first place, because it is lenient, and secondly, because 
' t is a reasonable adjustment of the matter, and prevents it, 
as much as possible, from becoming a source of profit. 

The option which we give to adversaries, of demanding or 
refusing the card, and of calling for the highest or lowest 
card in the suit, appears to provide completely against all 
danger of a card negligently shown ; if the danger be increased 
(as is seen by Section VII.) by cards played out of turn and 
intentionally, we shall there find a more powerful system of 
repression, and the employment of more rigorous means. 

Art. 76. — A little explanation on the mode of proceeding 
docs not appear to us entirely superfluous in this place ; lor 
instance, suppose one of your cards, the queen of hearts, has 
been seen, and has therefore fallen under the denomination 
of an exposed card : a spade is played ; your right-hand ad- 
versary, before playing his card, says to you : " If you have 
no spade, I refuse;" or, "I demand the queen of hearts;" 
if you hold no spade, you must obey, and the card will be 
played or liberated ; but if you hold a spade, and therefore 
follow suit according to the rules, your queen of hearts must 
remain an exposed card until there is a possibility of the caU 
being obeyed. 

But, again, we will suppose hearts to be played ; indepen- 
dently of the right of demanding or refusing your queen, your 
adversary also possesses that of demanding your highest or 
lowest heart ; whatever call may be made, your queen is 
thrown down or liberated. There is a case in which your 
queen may remain as an exposed card, from not having been 
demanded, but that would be your own fault, for you ought 
to have played it yourself, to avoid a consequence against 
which you could not previde. 

Articles 77 and 78. — These two cases are similar as regards 
the fault committed. The first limits the time till the trick 
has been laid in its place, and the second, till the right-hand 
adversary has played. It was desirable to restrain this right 
within a fixed period, — first, to avoid the necessity of a dis- 
cussion ; and, secondly, to prevent its neglect. A discussion 
is quite superfluous, particularly in a game where silence is 
so strictly enjoined ; to submit to it is attended with sufficient 
inconvenience, but to exact it would be too great a tax on our 
patience. It would be strange indeed to be called on to suf- 

123 



WHIST ACCORDING TO DESCHAPELLES. [PART m. 

for for the negligence of others ; for it is altogether repug- 
nant to the spirit of the law itself. It amounts to this : "I 
have an exposed card, do not forget to avail yourself of the 
advantage you may derive from it, and of the mischief that 
you may do me in consequence." 

A card is often shown through inattention. If the adver- 
sary neglect to apply the law for its punishment, the one 
fault cancels the other, and the account is balanced. 

It is well understood, by the trick being put in its placo 
(Article 77,) or by the right-hand player throwing down his 
card (Article 78,) that there is no longer any demand against 
the exposed card, and that he to whom it belongs may dispose 
of it as he pleases. 

Art. 79. — It frequently occurs that several cards are 
played together on a trick, either through haste or awkward- 
ness; as it is impossible to decide on the one that has fallen 
or been seen first, the application of this article prevents all 
discussion. 

Art. 80. — The principal of this rule has been universally 
adopted, although no law has hitherto sanctioned it, since it 
has never been specifically declared. This will no longer be 
the case, and every turn-up, or trump-card, that shall not 
have been taken up before the completion of the second trick, 
will most certainly be considered as an exposed card, and 
treated as such. 

We should here observe that a partner has a right to watch 
the turn-up card, and that he may warn the dealer to take it 
up in time. 

SECTION VII. CARDS PLATED OUT OP TURN, AND OP THE 

RIGHT OP CALLING FOR THEM. 

The fault of playing out of turn has appeared to us of 
sufficient weight, and of such frequent occurrence, as to 
demand particular notice, and require a special treatment; 
and we have considered it our duty to make it the subject of 
a separate section, and to combine it with the case of calling 
for cards so played, which has not necessarily been noticed 
elsewhere, and on which the former case exercises a consi- 
derable influence. 

Art. 81. — When the four players have each played theii 
cards, the eaid cards form a complete trick ; this is the law 
124 



PART HI.] PRINCIPLES. — PLAYING OUT OF TURN. 

En the case of a revoke, we have granted to the party in fault 
the means of retrieving their error, by extending the time for 
so doing until the trick has been put in its place, and one card 
has been played to the following trick. We have acted in 
the same spirit of extension towards a lead made out of turn. 
We have been anxious to allow the right of recovery to exist 
as long as possible ; because independently of a breach of the 
rules, a false lead frequently involves pecuniary interests. An 
irregular lead generally proceeds from a false notion enter- 
tained by one of the players, that he has won the previous 
trick; which he consequently takes up, though it properly 
belongs to his adversaries. In this case there is an illegal 
act, an usurpation of the right of another, an injury which 
must be repaired by a fine imposed on the offender. 

Art. 82. — If it were lawful to play out of turn wilfully, 
(which it is not, being merely a case to which the law submits 
from want of power to reach it), and if an account were taken 
of the results of such play, it is probable, that out of six 
times, four would be successful ; and that, in these four times, 
there would be two in which a trick would be unjustly taken 
from the adverse party. Besides the advantage of the lead, 
and the chance of winning a trick, there still remains, in all 
cases, even when detected in the act, the hint given to your 
partner, of the suit which your play requires him to lead. 

The right of demanding any suit, is the penalty of retalia- 
tion ; you have exposed your game, I will expose mine. We 
have doubled this privilege by extending it to the following 
trick, optionally ; for otherwise this right would be reduced 
to a mere trifle, and even with this extension, it is not always 
attended with advantage. When there is no profit found in 
the immediate application of this right, it may be convenient 
to wait for the change of suit, in order to accommodate the 
partner's hand. In fine, if, even after this delay, the adver- 
saries find no profit accruing to them, they may still have 
recourse to the exposed cards. To prevent mistakes, we should 
here mention, that only one of the three penalties can be 
applied, and that when the choice has been once made, it 
must be maintained. 

Art. 83. — To play out of turn when a partner has already 
played, is but a trifling fault ; it is a manner of intimating 
to your partner the state of your hand, which the law has not 

12* 125 



WHIST ACCORDING TO D1SCHAPELLES. [PART III 

actually prohibited, and for which it has provided but a slight 
punishment. A player's hand is shown in many ways ; sup- 
pose, for instance, that your partner has played a queen, you 
play before your turn because you have the king, or the ace 
and king, or perhaps none of the suit ; your partner learns by 
the fate of the trick, how you are situated. This species of 
intimation is against the spirit of the game ; and does come 
within reach of the arm of the law ; but as there is nothing 
in it repugnant to honour, and as everyone indulges in it 
without scruple, it has become a common practice. 

The penalty laid down by our article is not very severe : 
" Small crimes deserve but a small punishment/' The con- 
sultation, on whether the card shall be taken or left, is almost 
always insignificant ; nevertheless, as the fault in question 
has in general not been calculated on, and as it is a matter of 
inattention, there are cases in which it acquires some degree 
of importance. Suppose, for instance, that the partner of the 
leader has played directly after the latter, the second player 
and his partner wait until the hand passes from one side or 
the other, which may become very advantageous. We remark, 
en passant, that in all cases where called for, the call should 
never be pressed, and above all things should be left to the 
most skilful player, for we have observed that a call, badly 
made, has frequently increased an advantage instead of pun- 
ishing a fault. 

Art. 84. — A player invariably and without exception, has 
a right to play when his right-hand adversary has played ; if, 
therefore, it be the latter who has committed the fault, the 
provisions of Article 83 must be applied to the case. 

But, in this instance, there is a double fault ; a player has 
played before the two others who should have preceded him. 

For this reason, and on account of the advantage which it 
almost invariably confers on the partner, the law is very 
severe on the case. 

Art. 85. — There has been here a fault committed, and a 
penalty must follow. The law will apply it deliberately ; and 
if the adversary would interrupt it by precipitation, the only 
effect of such interruption will be, to double its power. 

Art. 86. — When the right is on one side, the article 
operates naturally. But as it will sometimes happen that 
the lead is out of order on both sides, we think that the 
126 



PART 111.] PRINCIPLES. — THE REVOKE. 

faults should then cancel each other. The principle of 
reciprocity is defined in Article 106, where it carries with 
it the necessity of the new deal, which we do not consider 
it necessary to introduce here, as the fault is not sufficiently 
weighty. 

Art. 87. — If a suit be called for, to which we cannot reply, 
the weakness of our hand is thus made known, and the fault 
is thereby punished. In point of fact, it becomes evident 
that we are short of a particular suit, or even of trumps, 
which, in almost every case, must be very prejudicial. If, 
after this punishment, the party were not liberated, if they 
remained still under the ban of the law, would it not amount 
to injustice ? 

Art. 88. — In this fault we find obstinacy or infatuation 
carried to the very highest degree. You are required to play 
your highest or lowest card in a suit, and you refuse to obey : 
you are called upon for one suit, and you play another ; this 
is a real revoke, and no one can complain of the injustice of 
its punishment. How shall we judge of it otherwise, and by 
what other penalty can the fault be resisted ? 

The forfeiture of three tricks is by no means too heavy a 
penalty to atone for this fault, and to avoid confusion ; what- 
ever may have been its origin, the injury it causes increases 
its bad effects, changes its appearance, and makes it assume 
the character of absolute rebellion. 

SECTION Vin. — THE REVOKE. 

In this game, the exertion required of the mind is divided 
under numberless heads, each simple and intelligible in itself, 
but which, when combined, present difficulties too great for 
any single individual to surmount. If it were impossible to 
consider these obstacles separately, no efforts of the mind 
would be able to overcome them, and every amateur, after 
vainly endeavouring to comprehend them, would retire dis- 
pirited from the contest, or would at least confine himself to 
playing with those of his own strength ; but the facility with 
which he masters them in detail, prevents him from perceiv- 
ing his own want of capacity. He may argue with himself 
thus : " In this particular, I have been mistaken, perhaps 
through want of attention; I jerceive my error, and will 
guard against it for the future " Thus he proceeds, and, by 

127 



WHIST ACCORDING TO DESCHAPELLES. [PART III 

degrees, conquers all the difficulties of the game. To return 
to the subject of the revoke ; it may be perceived at once, 
that it is an exception to the regular course of play, and not 
an inherent quality, and that the vigilance squired to dis- 
cover it is totally different from that attention so necessary tc 
bestow on the game itself; this is so true, that we frequently 
find it escape the observation of practised players, whilst 
others, far less advanced in the game, never let it pass 
unnoticed. 

We have no hesitation in declaring, that there is no cir- 
cumstance which tends more to confusion in whist, than a 
revoke. It is altogether repugnant to the principles of the 
game. This fault requires a severe chastisement, on account 
of the disorders which it occasions, and also because of the 
facility with which it may escape notice. 

Art. 89. — This article cannot claim the honour of being a 
precept ; it is merely a definition, but nevertheless, indispens- 
able, and for this reason, that a question should be plainly 
laid down before the consequences dependent on such ques- 
tion be admitted. 

Art. 90. — The great difficulty to be here provided against, 
is when a player who has revoked, objects to the penalty ; a 
dispute ensues on the facts of the case, or on the meaning of 
the rules ; the offending party of course opposes the infliction 
of the penalty, and refuses to own himself in the wrong, or 
to yield to the decision of his adversaries ; and if he be sub- 
sequently obliged to succumb to a majority of voices against 
him, he endeavours to come to some arrangement, or to refer 
the matter to arbitration. 

The frequent recurrence of such cases has induced us to 
draw up regulations, based on the evidence of the parties pre- 
sent, the unanimous adoption of which method probably takes 
its date from the very origin of the game of Whist. 

We are decidedly of opinion, that the trick in which a 
revoke has been made, should not only be replaced, that is 
to say, returned to the pack, but be turned up and thrown 
aside. A revoke cannot be considered as made, unless it be 
accompanied by all the circumstances mentioned in the first 
paragraph of the article; but if these circumstances have 
existed but for one second, they are sufficient to convict the 
offender; nor could any doubt be thrown on the case, by 
128 



t>ART III.] PRINCIPLES. — THE REVOKE. 

attempting to replace the hand when once removed from the 
trick. 

A person revokes, and is discovered at the moment when 
the trick is put in its place ; but this trick which belonged 
to the person revoking, is taken up by the adverse party, and 
the error immediately rectified. It may be asked, is the 
question of the revoke set at rest, or can it be returned to ? 
The revoke is not destroyed, because the trick taken up by 
another hand, is not really replaced in its proper position 
until it be claimed. 

He who plays to the card led, is not in the same position ; 
he revokes, and renders himself liable to the penalties con- 
tained in Articles 83 and 84, for this reason, that his right- 
hand adversary can thereby regulate the leading card as he 
pleases. 

The second remark regards the case in which a person is 
considered to have played ; such cases come under Article 
118. 

Art. 91. — Partners being mutually responsible for each 
other's faults, a penalty is frequently incurred by an innocent 
party, even when the latter has employed all his rights, and 
used his utmost endeavours to avoid it. 

Article 91 may be enforced either as a standing rule, or as 
a mutual agreement. We may make use of our right, by 
putting our partner on his guard, or by compelling him to 
count his cards. During those investigations, the adversaries 
take up the trick, put it in its place, and even lead off the 
next trick ; the case then becomes clear, as one revoke can- 
not be made by two persons. But if the offence be com- 
pleted by the party in fault, it will be irremediable, in spite 
of all discussion on the subject. With regard to the inquiry, 
we must further remark that, if delayed, it becomes null and 
void. 

Art. 92. — If your partner be warned in time, he may 
withdraw the card which is wrongly played ; but then he is 
not permitted to play as he chooses ; he must take up his 
card, and wait till he is called upon for his best or worst card 
)f the suit led \ if he play without waiting for the call, this 
second card, improperly played, will be considered as an ex- 
posed card The following reason strongly exemplifies this 

129 



WHIST ACCORDING TO DESCHAPELLES. [PART m 

new of the case. A player holding the knave and nine of 
spades is much interested in passing the ten which remains 
in hand. His right-hand adversary plays a small spade ; he 
plays a diamond — having discovered by the play of his left- 
hand adversary where the ten of spades lay, he plays a sure 
game ; his diamond taken up in time, will be, in truth, an 
exposed card, but of what consequence is that to him ? he 
will be sure to win the round, if they have not the right of 
forcing him to play his best or worst. We have seen this 
happen precisely as it is here quoted, though the same thing 
may occur under many different forms and with other cards. 

When our right-hand adversary has played, we have the 
right of doing the same ; that is the rule. But, in the above 
case, will it be an infringement of the rule to prevent our 
playing ? We believe not. This right has been cancelled by 
playing the diamond. 

One more observation — you inflict a double penalty on the 
same deal. Must I submit to have one card turned up, and 
another called for ? That is true, but a double fault deserves 
a double punishment, and this is the only means of restrain- 
ing it. 

Art. 93. — In this article, the expression " loses" is not 
quite precise, but it is true, and cannot be misunderstood by 
reason of the articles which precede and follow it, and which 
explain its various meanings. Strictly speaking the score 
must be considered in the light of an equation ; whatever is 
added on one side is a loss to the other. 

Art. 94. — If the revoke gave three points to the adverse 
party only in one manner, it would not confer any certain 
advantage upon those who are entitled to profit by it ; and, 
sonsequently would not operate to the disadvantage of those 
who had been guilty of the error. 

The right of adding to their own score is of no service to 
those who have gained sufficient by their own game. 

The right of causing their adversaries' score to be put 
down is of no detriment to those adversaries who have gained 
nothing ; 

And the taking of three tricks is inapplicable to those 
games in which three tricks beyond the gaining point have 
been already made. 
130 



PART in ] PRINCIPLES. — THE REVOKE. 

The op ion granted by the law, was then an indispensabb 
provision ; but even this would have been insufficient, but for 
the addition of Article 105. 

But notwithstanding all these efforts to frame a law, so 
complete and so perfect as to provide against every contin- 
gency, and we could quote instances without number where 
the revoke is attempted with impunity. Let us suppose a 
case in which one party has scored nothing, and let us sup- 
pose that the said party has discovered that their adversaries 
hold in their hands a means of winning, to which, in the 
regular course of the game, no legal opposition can be made 
with any probability of success ; it is evident, in that case, 
that they run no risk in thwarting their adversaries' game by 
revokes. The Jaw, foreseeing the probable occurrence of this 
case, has departed from its usual tenor of mildness, and, em- 
ploying its last resource, has launched forth its anathema by 
which it strictly prohibits the revoke, and calls upon all 
players conscientiously to abstain from it. 

Arts. 95 and 96. — This is a general practice. Before en- 
tering on the possession of an estate, a good title to it should 
be proved, and it is also necessary that the title deeds be 
carefully preserved, since they are the documents by which 
the right of possession is supported. 

Art. 97. — A legal revoke (esquiche) is an essential right in 
Whist, and is caused by inability to follow suit. This, however, 
may sometimes occur by mistake, as in the case of cutting the 
sards. An attentive player never fails to detect this error ; 
during the rest of the round he carefully notices the playing 
of the thirteen cards in each suit, and, on the least apparent 
irregularity, he exclaims instinctively : " There has been a 
revoke. " He i3 allowed to make this remark on mere sus- 
picion; it injures no one, because the result must be known 
to all, and it serves to prevent forgetfulness at the end of the 
deal. On instituting an investigation for the purpose of 
proving a revoke, it is required to show the trick in which it 
was made ; and as it probably may be necessary to turn up 
several of the recently made tricks, it cannot take place in 
the middle of the round ; firstly, because it is forbidden by 
the law; secondly, because the tricks might become mixed 
with the hands of the players, which would render the pro- 
visions of Section III. unjust; and lastly, because it would 

131 



WHIST ACCORDING TO DESCHAPELLES. [PART Hi. 

give the crafty player an undue advantage over his adver- 
saries ; since, in order to ascertain if a certain card had been 
played, he would only have to declare a revoke to gain a sight 
of the tricks already made. 

Arts. 98 and 99. — We have already remarked that those 
who profit by a revoke are in justice bound to prove the fact, 
which can be done only by pointing out the trick in which 
it has occurred; and we have also shown in the preceding 
remarks, that the tricks must not be inspected before the end 
of the round ; now, these two regulations comprehend some 
weighty consequences and deductions. 

In the middle of a round a revoke is proved ; sometimes 
this decides the game, in which case it would appear fasti- 
dious to continue to play out a quantity of cards, when there 
is no interest for so doing. But a powerful motive for con- 
tinuing the play does exist, for a pecuniary loss may be much 
diminished by winning an additional number of points. We 
may remark, en passant, that here the adept shows his great 
skill ; he struggles hard, and strains every nerve to dispute 
the ground inch by inch, whilst on the other side, the careless 
player, intoxicated with his success, voluntarily concedes his 
advantage, without even troubling himself to contest the 
point. If he has marked three and holds the honours, or if 
he has made two points and has proved a revoke, of what 
importance is it to him to win a double or a treble ! 

Another interested motive for continuing the round may 
be discovered, in the hope that a revoke on the other side 
may cancel the first ; or in the fear that a fresh act of inat- 
tention may make the losing party amenable to the provisions 
of Article 99. 

Art. 100. — The law provides for the possibility of several 
revokes : This was a necessary measure, for otherwise, a 
party having once offended, and paid the forfeit, might con- 
sider themselves privileged to revoke during the remainder 
of the game. It has, therefore, been found necessary to pro- 
vide a remedy for any repetition of the fault. 

Art. 101. — A moment arrives in the course of the game 
when the claim of a revoke is no longer admitted ; this may 
be easily guessed — it is when the cards are all thrown to- 
gether, or when the proof (see Article 96) is destroyed. Our 
article admits this axiom ; the more cards the stronger the 
132 



PART III.] PRINCIPLES. — THE REVOKE. 

right. It is undeniable if no claim has been made before the 
last card is played. 

Articles 102 and 103. — It frequently occurs that a revoke 
is detected by the last card in the round ; the axiom laid 
down in the preceding remarks, gave rise to Article 102 ; and 
again this latter Article required to be sanctioned and sup- 
ported by Article 103. 

Art. 104. — We once witnessed a circumstance which led to 
a discussion on a point extremely difficult to decide, and in 
which, for want of reasonable principles to guide us, and 
from the silence of the ancient law of the game on the sub- 
ject, we were reduced to the expedient adopted by the judges 
of Pantagruel, and drew lots for it. 

The following is the case alluded to : — One party had made 
a revoke, and either from bad play or from holding bad cards, 
had taken up only three tricks ; their adversaries, on dis- 
covering a revoke, insisted on claiming the penalty, as de- 
clared in the third paragraph of Article 94, i. e. by taking 
their three tricks and adding them to their own score. By 
enforcing this penalty, they made the whole of t«he thirteen 
tricks, and therefore, by the provisions of Article 53, they 
claimed a slam, and its value. 

Art. 105. — It i3 a general practice, that the party which 
makes a revoke, cannot win the game in the same round in 
which it has been made. We have therein united a prohibi- 
tion against counting the slam, which, although hitherto 
tacitly understood, appeared an indispensable addition to the 
rule. 

To deprive a party of the power of winning the game, when 
they had the means of doing so, appears a punishment of 
extreme severity. This is no longer one single forfeiture, but 
becomes a most formidable accumulation of penalties. If 
the said party be in the " well," they must remain there, 
even though they hold strong cards, the four honours, and 
most of the trumps ; nor is this all ; their adversaries mark 
their three points in spite of the mortification it causes to the 
other party. It is hoped that these considerations will ope- 
rate with sufficient weight to ensure the caution of all players 
against so grave a fault as a revoke. 

Art 106. — When revokes are made on both sides, it is not 
an easy matter to detect them. How many times has such a 

13 133 



WHIST ACCORDING TO DESCttAPELLES. [PART lit 

side revoked ? And what influence has one 1 evoke had upon 
others ? Besides, of what use is it to continue a game, which 
cannot be finished, unless the text of Article 105 be changed, 
and a new law introduced ? This, however, cannot be done, 
particularly when we take into calculation the skill of the 
players to whom such a case may happen. On reflection, we 
shall see that we have but one course to pursue, that the 
discussion must be put an end to, and the proceeding termi- 
nated. The fault of both parties is proved, and the guilt 
cancelled. We shall not inquire which side has been the 
more culpable, nor shall we seek even to ascertain whether 
the revokes are direct or by assimilation \ in the eye of the 
law they are the same, it is on the fact only that we de- 
cide. There must be a new deal, and therefore no points 
can be marked, and the party who had the deal must take it 
again. 

Art. 107. — The revoke by assimilation has never yet beeJi 
specified in the laws of the game, though it appears to have 
always been contemplated, otherwise what decision could 
have been arrived at, in the case of Articles 47, 88, and 
others similar ? When we reflect that every time a card is 
called and consequently that every card liable to be so called, 
may become the cause of a revoke, we cannot see how it is 
possible to elude an enactment so consonant to justice. 

With the exception of Article 47, where revokes are im- 
mediately marked, and terminate the round, it appears that 
all revokes by assimilation are in every respect applicable to 
Section VIII., and subject to the same rules with revokes pro- 
perly so called. 

Art. 108. — Notwithstanding all the precautions which the 
law has taken, and in spite of the numerous and heavy denun- 
ciations uttered against any transgressions of its rules, cases 
are constantly occurring in which the revoke eludes its grasp, 
and is placed altogether beyond its power. 

A wilful and well-calculated revoke may sometimes advance 
a party without any danger, especially where a game is con- 
sidered as lost, or where a revoke alone may change its doom. 
These cases are of common occurrence, and are closely allied 
to others, not perhaps so flagrant, though, in these latter, the 
profit always equals, if it does not exceed the loss, since there 
is always a chance that the revoke will not be discovered; 
134 



PART III.] PRINCIPLES. — HINTS TO PARTNERS. 

and this very chance, which is greater or less, according to 
the skill of the players, possesses a certain value. 

It is possible that a revoke may operate greatly to the 
advantage of the party revoking; let us suppose the follow- 
ing example : — 

You hold in your hand four honours, and nine best spades ; 
with these you might make a slam, because no hand could 
hold five trumps.* 

Your adversary holds four trumps, and nine best clubs ; at 
the fourth round of trumps, he revokes, and afterwards 
trumps your suit, and wins nine tricks. 

In this case, how could Article 108 be dispensed with ? 
The example above quoted, is perhaps an extreme case, but 
there are others analogous to it, of frequent occurrence. 

SECTION IX. — INTIMATIONS BETWEEN PARTNERS AND OF 

THEIR LIMITS. 

Art. 109. — Since all right of communication between part- 
ners is founded on their mutual and individual responsibility, 
it is, consequently, necessary to adopt some means of obvi- 
ating that punishment in which a player may be involved by 
the ignorance or inattention of his partner. We may con- 
sider these rights as existing, in a different degree, during 
three different periods of time. The firsi period is that 
which precedes the turning of the trump-card, during which 
lime, intimations are limited in no other way than by the 
rules of common politeness. 

During the second period, which commences from the 
time that the trump-card is seen, and extends to the termi- 
nation of the round, communication is much more restricted. 
This is the period which the law affects ; it admits of parties 
acting on the defensive, but prohibits all acts of aggression. 
It authorizes us to check an excess of vivacity ; allows us to 
caution our partner to hold his cards in a better position, 
and to abstain from asking questions which are contrary to 
the rules of the gama ; to request him to make the necessary 
claim in case of a revoke, and to examine his hand for our 
more complete satisfaction. It also allows us, either by 
voice or gesture, to prevent our partner from throwing down 
bis cards ; but, at the same time, it expressly forbids any 

* This position is exactly as M. Deschapelles has stated it.— Fd. 

135 



WHIST ACCORDING TO DESCHAPELLES. [PART III 

observation which may be detrimental to the interests of the 
adverse party. The rights of the third period come into 
operation during the interval between one round and another. 
These consist of a review of what has taken place, and what 
might have been done. An increased degree of amenity is 
here required, in order that no harsh expression be made use 
of ; each player is supposed to have done his best, and the 
want of success should be considered a sufficient punishment 
for any error that may have been committed. 

Art. 110. — An old rule of the game requires that each 
player should keep before him the card which he has played, 
and enjoins the strict observance of this practice. This cus- 
tom, however, is neither reasonable nor necessary. A card, 
when once played, ceases to belong to any particular hand j 
it forms a component part of a trick, and the player from 
whose hand it has proceeded, has no more right to keep it in 
any particular position, than he has to take it up again. 
This remark, of course, does not apply to a card which may 
have slid away, and is removed from its proper place. In 
this case, any one has a right to replace it. The privilege of 
touching this latter card, when once played, might be a means 
of collusion between partners, which is contrary to the spirit of 
the law, as giving a preponderating advantage to one side. 
With repect to the necessity of the case, it can affect him 
only whose turn it is to play ; it is his business to put the 
question, and to act accordingly. The other players must 
look upon it as an exception to the general course of the play, 
and it can serve them only as a hint ; if, however, they have 
not seen it in time, it is their own fault ; why have they 
averted their eyes from the table ? of what use is attention 
if its reward must be divided with the careless and negligent I 

We are acquainted with persons who, when it is their turn 
to play, make a point of asking every question which the law 
does not positively forbid ; not that they require information, 
but they act in this manner merely to show their authority, 
and stretch their prerogative to the utmost. 

Questions at whist are allowed to be addressed only to our 
partner ; if they prove injurious to him, or cause mistakes, ho 
has no remedy. It is only when a doubt or discussion arises, 
that the question is laid for decision before the bystanders. 

Art. 111. — Every one knows how much the significancy of 
136 



PART ni.] PRINCIPLES. — HINTS TO PARTNERS. 

an expression depends on circumstances which preceie 01 
accompany it. There are a thousand phrases which take their 
sense and bearing only from the incidents which have pre- 
ceded them, or with which they are connected. 

At whist, words derive their significancy from numerous 
accidental circumstances, which are intelligible only to the 
experienced. Words are frequently accompanied by gestures 
which have a powerful influence on nervous temperaments ; a 
player becomes agitated and exasperated because his partner 
does not return his lead, or does not follow his suit. " What, 
Sir, you have played me a diamond ! for the last quarter of 
an hour I have been giving you every possible hint to play 
spades !" He then raises himself on his chair, and holds up 
his hand, to intimate that he would take the trick over which 
his partner is hesitating. 

No excuse can be admitted for any word or gesture intel- 
ligible to the partner, which may exercise the slightest 
influence, either on the round in hand, or on those conse- 
quent to it. 

Articles 112, 113, 114, and 115. — These prohibitory arti- 
cles define the limits allowed to intimations ; they are tacitly 
understood in Article 111, but we have judged it necessary 
to lay them down as separate Articles, in order to serve as a 
reference, and to explain the exact spirit and signification of 
the law. 

We should look with an unfavourable eye on him who 
plays a winning card in such a manner as to signify to his 
partner not to trump it ; but from the moment that this act is 
repressed, he who has committed it feels no annoyance from it, 
because, as the profit bears no proportion to the detriment, the 
act can be attributed only to negligence or thoughtlessness. 

It is not now allowed to draw your card for your partner 
unless he request it. The cause of this prohibition is evident ; 
here is the boundary within which intimations are confined ; 
the abuse of the custom was feared ; the legislator was afraid 
lest this abuse would tend to make one player too attentive, 
and render the partner careless. 

As long as the trick has not been turned, the preceding one 
may be looked at, unless the first card of the next round has 
been played \ conformably to the maxim that nine cards must 
not be seen at once. When any one wishes to see the trick 

13* 137 



WHIST ACCORDING TO DESCHAPELLES. [PART in 

which has been taken up, it is usual to make the request to 
the player before whom it is placed. In the event of seeing 
another, (not the last) trick, it is customary to refrain from 
all further examination, on the principle that the right of 
inspection no longer exists. 

In order to apply the provisions of Article 115, we must 
suppose the trump-card taken up ; for if it be allowed to lie 
on the table after the second trick, as very frequently hap- 
pens, it will then fall under the denomination of an exposed 
card, by the provisions of Article 80. 

This is a judgment will be followed by immediate applica- 
tion in case of Articles 112, 113, 114, and 115, since they 
bear upon positive facts affected by a special law. 

There appears here some defect; the privilege of a new 
deal will be of no use to those who hold good cards, from 
which it might be inferred that of two faults, only one will 
be punished. This is true. But it is a great point gained 
to restrain the abuse of advantages. Another circumstance 
increases our confidence that this law will prove beneficial ; 
every appeal will cause an interruption of the game, which 
will increase the difficulty of recollecting the previous play ; 
this will make players on both sides cautious of giving occa- 
sion for those delays, and thus the general interests of the 
game will be promoted. 

SECTION X. GENERAL RULES. 

We- have devoted each Section to the special consideration 
of certain laws. 

Art. 117. — It is the duty of one player on each side to 
take up the tricks which are won, and place them near him, 
in such a manner that each of them may cover the half of 
the one preceding ; the last being placed at the top, and seen 
wholly. 

This arrangement, firstly, will facilitate the inspection 
for faults ; secondly, it will considerably shorten the calcu- 
lation of those whose play is directed by the tricks already 
made; and, thirdly, when the last trick is required to be 
shown, it will prevent the possibility of the wrong trick being 
turned. 

Order is a duty which we should exercise, were it only 
because it tends to fix our attention. The slightest confusion 
138 



PART III.] PRINCIPLES. — GENERAL RULES. 

becomes an excuse for error. Thus, if your tricks appear to 
consist of four instead of five, it may prove a fertile source 
of mistakes to your adversary. He has a right to accuse you 
of infringing Article 111, and to call for the application of 
Article 116. In Section II., under Article 33, a penalty is 
inflicted for a similar fault. 

If your tricks are crowded together in a heap, if they are 
divided with your partner, or are in any way disordered, you 
act contrary to the prescribed rules of the game, and you give 
rise to errors which an intelligent adversary will not fail to 
turn to your disadvantage. In the event of a discussion, your 
interests must suffer, as you are subjected to all the disagree- 
able effects of a quarrel ; and if your property be contested, 
how will you be able to prove your title ? 

Art. 118. — This case is included in Article 74, as regards 
a card detached from the hand, and in Article 124 with re- 
spect to the hand thrown down. Circumstances, however, 
frequently prevent the application of both these Articles. 

A player shows his card, or throws down his hand when he 
thinks that, by so doing, the round will be finished. This is 
only another way of expressing that he can make the rest of 
the tricks, or win the game, which, in most cases, proves true. 
If, however, a revoke has preceded the act, it may be con- 
tended that the revoke is not complete ; for this error is pun- 
ished with sufficient severity by adhering to the letter of the 
law, without aggravating the penalty by forcing its interpre- 
tations. 

In this Article, the completion of the revoke, or of other 
faults, is the same in principle as that laid down in Article 
90. When any one has wholly detached a card from his 
hand for the purpose of playing it, or when he has voluntarily 
exposed his hand to view, we consider, in both cases, that he 
has played. 

This fault often occurs : frequently, though he holds cards 
of the same suit in his hand, a player will trump the suit, 
and throw down his hand. In this case, there is an evident 
revoke. 

This mistake is frequently made in another manner, which 
must be here explained, in order that a just decision be 
applied to it. 

Suppose that spades are trumps ; a player holds the ace 

139 



WHIST ACCORDING TO DESCHAPELLES. [PART UI. 

and the two of hearts, and the two of spades ; the suit played 
is hearts, and it is his turn to play; instead of playing, he 
throws down his hand, and exclaims, u I trump, and play the 
ace of hearts." Under these circumstances has he revoked? 
Decidedly not. 

Art. 119. — When a card is played in consequence of 
another player's mistake (and this be rectified), it is said to 
be played precipitately. — (See Articles 82, 86, 92, and 
others.) 

Suppose a player has played a club, and the three others 
have also played to the trick ; it is discovered in time (see 
Article 82) that he has played out of turn. In this case the 
lead must return to the proper player, and the fault be dealt 
with according to the rules. 

But there are here three cards which have been improperly 
aeen. "We have before declared, and our reasons for it are 
evident, that the card belonging to the party in fault, must 
remain exposed, unless, by chance, the suit be led in the fol- 
lowing trick, in which case the card can be played. 

The two other cards must remain at the disposal of those 
who have, in reality, committed no fault, but who have been 
unwittingly led into error. 

Art. 120. — If a player take up, or allow his partner to take 
up, a trick which he erroneously thinks to belong to himself, 
he is thereby led into a second error ; he plays to the next 
trick, and consequently is liable to the application of Articles 
81 or 82. 

Have players a right, knowingly, to appropriate to their 
own use a purloined trick ? 

No, they should return it to the rightful owners, when the 
fault has been atoned for. 

Are the bystanders authorized to interfere ? 

Certainly, it is their duty to do so, when the fault has been 
expiated. 

Art. 121 and 122. — Hitherto, no law has existed which pro- 
hibited cards or hands from being voluntarily thrown down. 

It was only necessary, however, to object to this right, to 
procure its condemnation ; since, as no written law could be 
produced in its favour, the assailants had recourse to those 
articles of law by which shown cards are placed at the dis 
posal of the adversaries. 
140 



PART III.] PRINCIPLES. — GENERAL RULES. 

In accordance with our regulations for throwing down 
the hand, whoever (see Article 121) shall have done so 
correctly will thereby incur no risk ; but on the contrary, 
will exert his own privilege, and economize the time of the 
players. 

Art. 123. — If when you hold thirteen cards in your hand, 
you allow six of them to be seen, those six become exposed 
cards; if seven be seen, your hand must be thrown down 
Whether this be done through awkwardness, or purposely, 
the law must take its course. In case of the fault occurring 
from some external or reciprocal cause, Article 126 may be 
referred to; if it be the fault of the adverse party, a remedy 
will be found in Article 127. 

When very bad cards are held, it may be advantageous 
that the partner should see them, in order to demonstrate the 
impossibility of co-operating with his friend's plans, and to 
caution him against speculation. Thus, thrown back upon 
his own resources, he will foresee the necessity of employing 
them so as to soften the severity of his disaster. 

We must here observe, that if the hand not subject to the 
call, should contain any cards previously exposed, such cards 
are disposed of by the usual regulations. — (Article 73.) 

Art. 124. — We have already shown, that a hand thrown 
down involves a necessity of the same act on the side of the 
partner, and that were it otherwise, the fault might be pro- 
ductive of advantage to its authors. 

In order to obviate the slightest mistake in the application 
of the law, we repeat ; Firstly, that in all cases where the 
hand is thrown down, the partner must do the same ; Sec- 
ondly, that one of the two hands, at the option of the delin- 
quent, is played at command ) and Thirdly, that the other 
hand cannot be called for, with the exception of whatever 
cards may have been previously exposed. 

Art. 125. — If a player throw up his hand, and an adversary 
do the same, the cards become so mixed that it is impossible 
to continue the game, and there must be a new deal ; but if 
his partner should prevent it in time, by removing the hand 
thrown up before the cards become mixed, the fault must 
then be compensated for by applying to Article 124. 

Art. 126. — Our rules contain many Articles which are 
vaguely and indefinitely expressed. Article 126 is liable to 



WHIST ACCORDING TO DESCHAPELLES. [rART IIL 

this exception. What is to be understood by the expression 
" very much V How are we to provide for the case when 
the fault is on both sides ? And in what acceptation are we 
to take " from any other cause ?" 

The strongest and most serious objections are as nothing 
when weighed in the scale against necessity. The removal 
of the Article will create a deficiency in the rules ; if the ex- 
pression be struck out, it will be the cause of endless discus- 
sions ; if we were to specify every sort of mutual fault, we 
should fill volumes. 

Art. 127. — This is merely a corollary to the preceding 
Article. In the last, we pronounced a penalty upon extra- 
neous or reciprocal faults, by declaring the necessity of a new 
deal ; here we apply the same penalty to special faults, and 
fix the punishment upon the guilty party. 

Art. 128. — If a player should have forgotten to declare 
honours till after the trump-card is turned, the honours can- 
not be marked. Suppose, however, that, in consequence of 
some fault, the deal be lost, or a fresh deal be necessary : — 

In this case he might assume that, as the round was an- 
nulled, he had a right to resume all his privileges of the 
preceding round. 

In the case of a new deal, no objection could be raised to 
his pretensions, for a round which is annulled, can be pro- 
ductive of no effects. 

But, in the case of a lost deal, it might be maintained that 
the round was not altogether without effect, since it produced 
a gain to one party, and a loss to the other. 

Under these circumstances, the legislator considered himself 
authorized to decide the two cases differently, though, at the 
same time, he found it convenient to combine them in one arti- 
cle, and under the same law. The only effect produced by this 
arrangement, is a slight increase in the value of the honours. 

This rule, which regards honours, may be applied by ana- 
logy to other cases. 

Art. 129. — On the principle of mutual responsibility, when 
a player has played or put down his card, the round is, to all 
intents, led off, as far as it may affect his own or his partner's 
rights. 

A round is finished in the same way as the game, (see Ar- 
ticle 130). 
142 



PART III.] THE OFFICE OF THE BYSTANDERS. 

To play to a trick, is to put down your card on those which 
have been played before your turn. 

Art. 130. — If one party assert that they have won the 
game, and if their adversaries, without any dispute, assent 
to the assertion, the game is finished. The circumstance ot 
the cards being again put together is no additional proof of 
the fact. 

Art. 131. — It is contrary to the rules, not to follow suit 
when you are able to do so. Thus, to put a heart upon a 
spade, when you have a spade in your hand, is an infringe- 
ment of the law. 

To deal, or to play out of turn, are also illegal acts ; but 
they are not such serious offences against the law, because 
they produce no evil consequences, and do not act to the pre- 
judice of either party. Indeed, though they interrupt, they do 
not perplex the game. If they escape the notice of the players, 
or if they be remarked, and suffer the consequent penalty, it 
is too late to rectify them, and the game must proceed. 

SECTION XI. — THE BYSTANDERS.* 

Art. 132. — If a dispute arise between two players, one 
positively affirming that an error has been committed, and the 
other as positively denying the fact; it is evident, that, in 
such a case, all continued discussion would be useless. 

Under these circumstances, the dispute must be settled by 
arbitration or by lot. The umpires are the bystanders, or 
witnesses. They are the best judges of the fact, as they have 
seen it, and, consequently, there is no appeal from their deci- 
sion. Every man of sense will think himself too fortunate to 
have such a tribunal to refer to; even if unjustly condemned, 
he will submit without murmuring ; for where shall we look 
for him who has never discovered, after an argument, that he 
has been all the while in error, though he was positive, at the 
time, of being in the right ? 

The drawing by lot is a concession on both sides. Each 
party gives up the half of his rights ; a proceeding which it is 
necessary to adopt in the absence of witnesses. By this con- 
cession, the interests of neither side are injured, consequently 
there can be no oppression exercised. 

• This section has been greatly reduced ; tne author has indulged in de- 
tails far too diffuse for a work or general reference. — Ed. 

143 



WHIST ACCORDING TO DESCHAPELLES. [PART HI. 

Art. 133. — Whenever a player thinks that he perceives, in 
the course of the game, an act unauthorized by the law, he has 
a right to remark upon it, and consequently to refer to the 
bystanders for their opinion. 

The bystanders are not allowed to express their opinion, 
except at the express request of the players. The only excep- 
tion to this remark is the case of Article 135. 

Art. 134. — We have already declared that, with regard tu 
the fact, the decision of the bystanders is paramount. They 
have the power of maintaining, specifying, and determining 
the fact ; but players are privileged to refuse to submit to their 
opinion, though this is an extreme case, which we would ad- 
vise all persons to avoid, because the power vested in the 
bystanders is of great advantage to players, even though they 
be not always very competent, or very impartial judges. 

The following rules will serve as a supplement to, or cor- 
rection of, the law as it now stands. 

Firstly, — If an unforeseen case should occur in any whist 
club, it shall be submitted to the decision of players of ac- 
knowledged skill, and be made the subject of deliberate con- 
sideration. 

Secondly, — It shall be reduced to writing, and posted for 
public inspection. 

Thirdly, — It shall be communicated to all neighbouring 
clubs. 

Fourthly, — It shall be submitted to foreign clubs in those 
countries where the game of Whist is well played. 

Fifthly, and Lastly. — The decision shall be delivered to 
the club where the dispute originated, and be held binding. 

Art. 135. — Customs which are purely the result of habit, 
should not be allowed to offer any obstacle to discussion : their 
foundations have been long since sapped by the gradual im- 
provement of the game, and the day is at length arrived when 
they must give way to rational institutions. Article 135 
creates a revolution in the former usages of the game, and 
restores to the bystanders the rights of which a long and inve- 
terate habit had deprived them ; it re-establishes equity in 
decisions, it animates the progress of the game, and raises 
those, who were before considered a hindrance, into powerful 
protectors of the player's interests. 

Art. 139.- —No engagement can be more binding than a 
144 



PART III.] THE OFFICE OF THE BYSTANDERS. 

mutual contract : when a benefit is conferred, every one should 
acknowledge the obligation, and take the first opportunity of 
making a return. Thus the privileges with which we have 
invested the bystanders authorize us to impose upon them 
certain restrictions. These are laid down in Article 139. 

Here we breathe from our labours. We have, at length, 
arrived at a point we have longed wished to reach. We con- 
fess that this accumulation of articles has been very trying 
to our patience ; indeed, we scarcely think we should have 
undertaken the work, had we been aware of the necessity of 
so many explanations. To show, however, how far we are 
influenced by a conscientious feeling, we shall not shrink from 
the task, but shall conclude with some general remarks, 
which are necessary to the completion of the work, and which 
our readers have a natural right to expect. 

The study of games resembles that of languages ; they both 
employ the more prominent faculties of the mind, memory, 
reflection, &c. In infancy, this occupation tends to the de- 
velopment of the mental powers, and the progress of reason ; 
but in after-life, it interrupts the growth of ideas; thus it 
becomes a pleasing and useful study for young people, but 
disagreeable and unintellectual for those of a more advanced 
age. 

The saying of a celebrated diplomatist is well known : " Vow 
ne savezpas le whiste f jeune homme? quelle triste vieillesse voui 
vous preparez I" 



14 H» 



WHIST BY J W CARLITON [PAltT IV 



PART THE FOURTH. 
WHIST BY J. W. CARLETON. 
ACCORDING TO THE BEST MODERN AUTHORITIES. 



It has been said by one of our most popular poets that 
" Troy owes to Homer what Whist owes to Hoyle." 

The magician of the Iliad, whose individual existence and 
identity are questions upon which the learned- are at issue, 
from vague and vagrant traditions moulded the most entire 
and perfect epic that poetry has produced. So did Hoyle, 
from elements as indefinite and dispersed, model the most 
complete and peerless game that is played with cards : the 
most elaborate and finished of all the essays of science, skill, 
and memory, whereof they are the instruments. This talent 
for distinguishing and turning to account the beautiful and 
rare stands in the same relation to the embellishments of life 
as knowledge and energy to its more important offices. The 
sage discover and the diligent apply the mines of wisdom 
and wealth, which are the moral and material inheritance of 
civilization; the imaginative and the speculative weave their 
fancies and their schemes from the rich legacies of the ideal 
and the subtle contrivances of art. 

The origin of playing cards is as unsettled, as it is obscure. 
There are several volumes on the subject extant, but they leave 
this vexed question where they found it. One antiquarian 
ascribes it to Arabia, another to Persia, a third to China. 
Were I writing a history, I should make bold to borrow from 
them, but I am not. The purpose of this treatise is to trace 
the game of whist from its seedtime to the ripe harvest of its 
present maturity. Any attempt to find out by whom the 
germ was first planted or whence it was derived, would be as 
difficult, if not as impossible, as to search out the source of its 
machinery. Whether descended from " Ruff and Honours/' 
146 



PART IV.] PREDATOR*. 

from " Slam," or from " Whist and Swabbers," is an inquiry 
that may conveniently be bequeathed to posterity. We made 
our acquaintance with the game when, after an ordeal of 
several seasons at Bath, it had obtained entree to the clubs and 
salons of London. Here we have watched its progress and 
recorded its changes and improvements. We have in the pre- 
vious pages exhibited the results of its introduction among the 
elite of the French capital. It now remains to specify its 
changes at home during the last half century, and more espe- 
cially to record the revolution which overthrew the ancient 
" Long" dynasty, under the title of " Short Whist."* 

A popular writer upon this game, in alluding to the 
necessity for a generally understood and acknowledged code 
applicable to it, observed, some ten or a dozen years ago, 
" The whist of Brookes's, White's, and Graham's Clubs, is no 
more like country play, than Phillidor's game of chess is like 
that of Mrs. Grundy." Such a remark, indeed, could not have 
referred to players of any pretension, who would necessarily 
be on terms with the changes that time, even an hour, brought 
about. Nevertheless a record or register of the rules and 
regulations adopted in the circles distinguished for whist 
playing, more especially the leading card clubs and societies, 
would at all times and under all circumstances have been a 
manual of great convenience in disputed cases, as well as 
furnishing the best means of preventing much misunder- 
standing. But while the system was yet crude in theory, 
and scantily developed by practice, a work of the kind was 
not to be expected. 

Whist was in general favour as a game of skill and 
great interest a century ago, but it seems very doubtful 
whether the game spoken of by Farquhar, Pope, Thomson, 
and others of their contemporaries, is the same as that 
at present known. "We may, on many accounts, regret," 
says an amateur, who published, a few years since, a 
pretty little illustrated brochure on the subject, u that Whist 
was not generally known nor played throughout England at 
an earlier period, in the days of Elizabeth, or rather in 

* The game was cut in half one night to give a chance to Lord Peter- 
borough of recovering a heavy loss. Hoare, the great Picquet player, 
lately deceased at Bath, at a very advanced age, was one of the party. 
This must have been nearly sixty years ago. 

147 



PART IV.] WHIST BY CARLETON. 

those of Shakspeare, for it is fair to compute epochs from 
the highest in intellect as well as the highest in rank. Had 
it been so ordained, and our immortal bard had loved 
his innocent rubber, what inimitable allusions to it might 
have been scattered through his works. Conceive his criti- 
cism on the Prince's lead or Poms' s finesse, delivered the 
more earnestly that he might cheat unobserved. How figu- 
rative had ancient Pistol been on kings, queens, knaves, and 
deuces ! How accomplished a trickster, in another sense, had 
Autolycus shown himself ! How Sir Toby Belch would have 
expressed his detestation of a mean and meagre hand, next 
in his sober abhorrence to ' an unfilled can/ or to a sot in his 
drunken reprehension I" 

Hoyle, then, furnished the text of the game now known as 
Whist, an embodiment derived, and to a certain extent com- 
pleted, during the latter part of the seventeenth century, 
from certain games previously distinct and specific. In 1680 
Cotton thus spoke of the rules observed in playing Huff and 
Honours, by some called Slam or Whist. " If either side are 
at eight groats, he hath the benefit of calling Can ye ? If he 
hath two honours in his hand, and the other answers l Onrt/ 
the game is up, which is nine all ; but if he hath more than 
two, he shows them, and then it is one and the same thing; 
but if he forgets to call, after playing a trick, he loseth the 
advantage of Can ye for that deal." In another place he 
says, •' He that hath three honours in his own hand, his 
partner not having the fourth, sets up eight by cards, that is 
two tricks ; if he hath all four, then sixteen, that is four by 
tricks : it is all one if the two partners make their three or 
four between them, as if one had them." To Hoyle we are 
indebted for the existing single abstract game, formed out 
of the above-named compound; to the various editions of 
that great master we owe our knowledge of its elemental pro- 
gress and amended systems. " Honour to Edmund Hoyle," 
exclaims one of his least aspiring, though not one of his least 
discerning followers, " honour to Edmund Hoyle ! If he was 
not exactly the first who reduced this sport into a science, 
he was the first who rescued its rules from the vagueness 
of oral tradition, and gave them a systematic arrangement, a 
printed existence." The pith of their lore and philosophy 
was given in the Second Part of this Treatise, and that tran- 

148 



PART IV.] PREFATORY. 

script may be regarded as the text book of whist down to the 
introduction of the Short Game. 

It is true he had many disciples, but these are rather com* 
mentators than historians of any new facts or principles. 
We reckon among his successors Mathews, Admiral Burney, 
Arnaud the savant of modern Athens, and a host of small 
deer, servum pecus. We find in them the most meagre and 
unsatisfactory allusion to that re-organization of the game 
which was indeed slowly, but still surely going on, and which, 
about five-and-twenty years ago, resulted in the introduction 
of that new system which is destined at no very distant day 
to supersede altogether the custom, if not the memory, of its 
predecessor. 

" It is a great desideratum," observes Deschapelles, " that 
the game should be curtailed in a definite, constant, and uni- 
form manner ; but at the same time that its principles should 
remain unchanged, and that, in this state, it should appear 
invested with the same charm, and offering the same attrac- 
tion as before. After various attempts that plan was adopted, 
which, from its simplicity, should have first offered itself. 
The game was cut in two, and thus became short whist. The 
increased importance of the honours, which had at first given 
cause for alarm (since, from being four-tenths they became 
four-fifths,) was not in reality so meant to be feared, as they 
held the same relation to the tricks, which rose in an equal 
proportion ; and the penalty inflicted on the revoke, which 
was doubled, and thus better adapted to the short game, did 
not appear exorbitant in practice. The punishment of the 
revoke, in fact, should be always proportioned to the mis- 
chief it might cause should it pass unperceived ; and if the 
legislator had inflicted the loss of the game as a penalty for 
the fault, no one could have murmured at his decision. 

" These two circumstances, respecting the honours and the 
revoke, the only obstacles to the adoption of short whist, had 
already been sanctioned by experience. In the game of 
Favourite, four honours had marked eight points, and the 
revoke six points, without exciting any opposition. The 
path being thus cleared, short whist had but to present itself 
to be received with universal acclamation. 

" By the assistance of a simple regulation, the essential 
clause, regarding double and treble games, is maintained ; 

14* 149 



WHIST BY CARLE10N. [PART IV. 

and by abolishing the * call/ a means has been fonnd of com* 
pensating the skilful player for the advantages of which he 
was deprived. With these few exceptions, short whist was 
fcund to possess all the essential qualities of its parent, and 
to resemble it in every respect ; and indeed it is an excellent 
substitute for long whist, whenever excitement and vivacity 
are required, or when business may make it necessary to 
economize time, 

" Except these illustrations, and some shades of difference 
in the manner of playing, long and short whist are identi- 
cally the same, and all the remarks made in this treatise are 
equally applicable to both games. In order to explain the 
spirit which distinguishes them, we shall adopt Plutarch's 
system, and draw a parallel between them. An opportunity 
for adopting this plan is offered in the solution of two very 
interesting questions, which are subjects of continual discus- 
sion. This solution is of some importance : it is a conscien- 
tious discussion, and the result of long reflection ; and to 
insure its general adoption, we shall here present it to our 
readers. 

" Is short whist as difficult as long whist ?* 

" In playing the long game, when both sides mark five, 
they are precisely in the same position with those parties who 
are beginning the short game. 

" The latter, therefore, is but a fraction of the former. 

" Now the part is less than the whole. 

" Therefore the question is solved. 

u At short whist the points are marked from one to five. 

" At long whist they are extended as far as ten. 

" The calculation, confined to the number of points to be 
won in a single round,f increases in a geometrical progres- 
sion. In this respect long whist is exactly similar to the 
new game, as it is possible in the same round [hand] to make 
eleven points, by seven tricks and four honours. Hence 
it follows that, in this point of view, and with this progres- 
sion in the calculation, the difference and increased difficulty 
of the latter game must be immense. 

* This is a repetition, the question having being already put and an 
Bwered : but it is necessary to the context. 

t The translator continually applies the word " round" to playing out 
four cards or the whole fifty-two indifferently. 

150 



PART IV.] PREFATORY. 

" We engage our readers not to draw a rash conclusion 
from these two corollaries, but first to listen to the modifica- 
tions on the other side, which will set the question in a new 
light, and correct their first impressions. 

" The state of the game from five to five cannot be identi- 
fied with short whist, because the latter still has the chances 
of winning a double or a treble. 

" Whence it follows that all the combinations of the game 
which concern the number of five, are not affected by its 
extension, and remain unchanged in both games. The in- 
trinsic merit of the game is equally unaltered. The merit, 
combined with skill, becomes irresistible in the hands of the 
proficient. 

" The calculation itself, which is generally considered to 
increase in proportion with the number of points marked by 
the game, only does so by exception : it will be frequently 
disturbed by peculiar combinations of the cards, and even 
sometimes completely confused for want of co-operation on 
the side of the timid and unenterprizing partner. 

" Having thus neutralized the chief objections, we shall 
return to the question, and here we shall find that the reduc- 
tion of the game from ten to five points is one great cause of 
its excellence, since the very fact of its being circumscribed 
gives occasion for a greater exertion of intellect : this is more 
especially true with regard to those things of which we can- 
not be certain, but in which probability of possession is in- 
creased in proportion to the intelligence employed in acquir- 
ing them. We find that the distribution of the cards easily 
admits the possibility of making five points in one round 
[hand,] a possibility which is increased, both by the eager- 
ness of those who, having scored nothing, desperately run all 
hazards, and by the backwardness of others who, having 
made three or four points, are afraid of venturing too far, 
and act on the defensive. 

" These two-fold principles of action open a field for energy, 
decision, and ardour, in which the excited feelings of the 
player are, as it it were, counterbalanced by his caution and 
skill, by which means talents are developed which are wholly 
unknown in long whist " " Long whist is more diffi- 
cult than short whist in the ratio of twenty to nineteen." 

This latter axiom justifies our placing the long game, with 

151 



LONG WHIST BY CARLETON. [PART IV 

such modern changes and improvements as have grown up 
since Hoyle's time, in the reader's possession before he is 
introduced to the practice and polity of its successor. No 
startling variations, indeed, are to be looked for : no devia- 
tions from the principles as already detailed : no departure 
from the fundamental rules, but such a treatment of them as 
best tends to get rid of intricacy and perplexity. Where the 
law was found defective of course such provision has been 
made for the imperfection as experience and practical skill 
suggested. But while the principles of the game remain 
almost precisely as detailed by Hoyle, it has become more 
scientific and more elaborate than it was. Refinements, it is 
true, are not to be acquired by studying maxims or systems, 
but an improved method is capable of being imparted, and 
" tact " may be taught by example as instruction is conveyed 
by precept. 



LONG WHIST.— LAWS. 
ACCORDING TO THE BEST MODERN AUTHORITIES. 

" It is true that what is settled by custom, though it be not good, yet at 
least it is fit." — Bacon. 

CUTTING IN. 

This of course only applies to cutting; where the cards 
are drawn, one need only be removed. 

A party of four having assembled, two packs of cards are 
placed upon the table. From one of these each person re- 
moves a cut, of not less than four cards :* the two highest 
and the two lowest become partners ; the holder of the lowest 
is entitled to the deal. If in cutting there be two lowest 
cards of a like value, the holders cut again for the deal, to 
which the lowest has the claim. 

The ace is the lowest card in cutting. 

The dealer and his partner have the choice of seats and 
cards, which they retain during the rubber. When their op- 
ponents have sat down, they cannot alter their position. 

* This is a club rule : the usual mode is for the players to draw one card 
each from the same pack. 
152 



PART IV.] LAWS OP LONG WHIST. — THE DEAL. 

Should there be two or more " ties " in the cut, they go for 
nothing : all three cut again, while the fourth retains its 
relation, whether of high or low, to the four cards first cut. 

The right hand adversary cuts to the dealer. In doing so 
he must not cut less than four cards from the top, nor less 
than three from the bottom. Should a card be exposed in 
the operation, there must be a fresh cut, and the dealer has 
the option to shuffle the pack before it is cut again. 

The pack being cut, it cannot be changed for that deal. 

At the conclusion of the rubber the players cut again from 
the same cards, and the two highest retire, should there be 
two others waiting to come in. Cutting in or out must be by 
pairs. After the round the two that have been in longest 
must go out. e 

THE DEAL. 

The pack may be shuffled by any of the players; the 
dealer being entitled to shuffle them last, the cards having 
been placed during the previous deal on the left hand of the 
next dealer by his left-hand adversary. The cards must be 
shuffled above the table. In shuffling on the table there 
is a chance of the position of the cards being seen : this lat- 
ter practice is only admissible with a pack that is being 
opened for the first time. 

The deal is performed by the distribution of one card at a 
time, commencing with the player on the dealer's left hand. 
Should the bottom card be exposed either in cutting or deal- 
ing, the opposite party may claim a new deal. The trump- 
card may be retained by the dealer, with the face turned 
down while bets are being made ; but if placed with the face 
downwards on the table, the deal is lost. 

If in the process of dealing the trump-card be in any way 
exposed, the opponents have the choice of demanding a fresh 
deal. 

Should the dealer look at the bottom card, before it ia 
turned up, it is a lost deal. 

The dealer is not at liberty to touch the cards on the table 
to ascertain how he has disposed of them, but he may count 
those undealt to see how many remain in his hand. 

Should either of the opponents turn up the cards while the 

153 



LONG WHIST BY CARLETON. [PART IV. 

deal is in progress, if a card be accidentally exposed, a mis- 
deal cannot be claimed, nor a fresh deal called. 

When the pack is found to be perfect, should any of the 
players hold more than thirteen cards, the deal is lost. 

Should a pack be imperfect, there must be a fresh deal. 

If a card be found, though it be the last, still there must 
be a new deal. 

The deal is lost should a card be misdealt. 

Should two cards be dealt at one time to one player, and 
the dealer give a card to the next before correcting himself, 
he loses his deal ; and should he omit a hand and deal to the 
two following, or should he give the top card where the lower 
one should have gone, he pays a like penalty. 

Should a dealer deal out of turn, so soon as he turns the 
trump his deal holds good, and the one who was passed loses 
the deal. 

If the dealer does not see that the cards are cut, the adverse 
party can call a new deal. 

It is the duty of the dealer's partner to collect the cards as 
soon as the score has been arranged, and place them on his 
own right hand. 

If a pack of cards be found faulty, the deal only in which 
the discovery is made shall be void, but the deal is not lost. 

The trump-card should be left on the table till it is the 
dealer's turn to play, and then be placed in his hand. If it 
be left till his partner or he himself shall play a second time, 
it comes within the category of an exposed card, and may be 
called accordingly.* If taken up before it is his turn to play, 
he may be required to show it ; and should he by accident or 
otherwise show a wrong card, it can also be called. 

THE GAME. 

Count your cards as you take them up, for should the first 
trick be turned, and you then discover that you have not the 
right number (thirteen,) and the other players happen to have 
their complement, the deal is good ; and should you have re- 
voked, you pay the penalty. But if the pack be found imper- 
feet, and without the missing card, no revoke can be claimed, 
neither is the deal a lost one. But if the missing card be in 
the hand of one of the players, the deal is lost. 

* This penalty is seldom enforced. 

154 



PART IV.] LAWS. — THE GAME. 

If a card be led out of turn, it can be called during any 
portion of the game, provided it does not cause a revoke ; or 
any other suit may be required from the same player, or his 
partner, should it be his turn to play. But should the player 
not have a card of the suit named, hj cannot be called upon 
to play a card of another. Should your adversaries call dif- 
ferent suits, you may play which you please. 

A lead made out of turn cannot be objected to after the 
person whose turn it was to play has led or played to the next 
trick. 

Should you play out of your turn, your partner having also 
played, the adversaries have the option of consulting whether 
the cards shall remain or not. 

Should you play out of turn, before your partner has 
played, the opposite party may call on him to play the highest 
or lowest card of the suit played ; and should he have none 
of that suit, then a trump or any other suit. 

A player having won a trick, should he lead again before 
his partner has played, the card so shown becomes an exposed 
one, and his partner may be compelled, if he can, to win the 
trick over again. 

If two cards have been played together, or if the player 
shall have played twice to the same trick, the opposite party 
can select which of the two shall remain, and the other may 
at any time be called, provided it does not cause a revoke ; if 
the trick is turned with the two cards in it, that gives a right 
to the adversary to call a fresh deal, or most likely leads to a 
revoke. 

When your partner does not play to the suit you have led, 
you are entitled to inquire whether he holds any of that suit 
or not. 

Should two players answer the lead simultaneously, the 
player whose turn it was may either allow his adversary's 
card to remain, or he may treat it as an exposed card, or call 
for a particular suit either for the next trick or the following 
one. 

" Who dealt I" is a question that is not permitted ; but you 
may inquire whether the cards are placed right for the next 
deal. 

All cards played out of turn, whether one, two, or more, 
become " exposed," and must be left on the table at thf 

155 



LONG WHIST BY CARLETON. [PART IV 

demand of the adverse party, who may " call" them all in 
turns. 

Before playing, the request " Draw your card" may be put 
to your partner ; but you cannot inquire who it was that 
played any particular card. 

You are not entitled to see a trick after it has been turned. 

Should the third player play before the second, the fourth 
is entitled to play before the second ; should the fourth play 
before the second and third, the second may be compelled to 
win the trick, if he can, or not, at the option of the leader or 
his partner. 

Should a card be trumped in error, and thereby you have 
been induced to play as you would not otherwise have done, 
the mistake being corrected, you have a right to take up your 
card, without the penalty of being called, and may claim from 
the person so playing erroneously the highest or lowest of the 
suit previously led ; or at any future period of the game you 
may call for the exposed card. 

Being called on to play your best or your worst card, con- 
sequently a trump or not a trump, or to play any suit you 
may hold, should you fail to do so, you have made a revoke, 
and become liable to the penalty. 

You cannot transfer your cards to another to play for you 
under any circumstances, save with the consent of the other 
three players. 

You may call for new cards during any portion of the rubber, 
before dealing, upon paying for them ; this latter condition, 
of course, is only applicable to play at a public establishment. 

THE REVOKE. 

If a suit is led and any one of the players having a card 
of the same suit shall play one of another suit to it, and the 
trick ha3 been turned and quitted, that constitutes a revoke ; 
but the error being discovered before the trick is quitted, or 
before the party having so played a wrong suit, or his partner, 
shall play again, the penalty only amounts to the card being 
treated as " exposed," and being liable to be called. 

Having discovered before the trick is turned that you have 
revoked, you may take up your card, and you must then play 
your best or your worst card of the suit, at the demand of youi 
adversaries, and the card you have exposed may be called. 
156 



PART IV.] LAWS. — THE REVOKE. — THE SCORE. 

Should a revoke be claimed, in searching the tricks turned 
for it, the opposite party pay the penalty as for a revoke, if 
they mix their tricks before you have examined them. 

The revoke being complete, the parties by whom it has 
been committed forfeit three points for each revoke, should 
there be more than one ; the adversaries having the option of 
deducting them from their antagonists' score, or adding three 
to their own score, or taking three of their adversaries' tricks 
and adding them to their own. 

The party that claims a revoke must prove that it has been 
made before the cards are cut for the next deal. 

The party against whom a revoke has been proved cannot 
under any circumstances win the game in that hand. 

It is the custom at many whist clubs, that when a rubber 
has been lost by a revoke, the party making it pays his part- 
ner's points.* 

The party revoking, should their score exceed the points 
which constitute the game, remain at nine. 

When there are revokes on both sides there must be & new 
deal.j* 

THE SCORE. 

The game of Long Whist consists of ten points. 

For each trick after six one point is scored. 

The honours are ace, king, queen, and knave of trumps. 

In reckoning, tricks have precedence of honours. 

If the four honours are in one hand, or held by partners, 
they count four ; should there be three honours in one hand 
or between partners, they reckon two points ; the one held by 
their adversaries being deducted from their three. If part- 
ners hold two between them, either in one hand or one each, 
honours are said to be divided. 

Honours do not reckon when the score is nine. 

Honours do not count unless they have been claimed and 
scored before the trump-card of the succeeding game has 
been turned. 

When the score is eight on your side, should you hold 
more than two honours, you win the game by showing them. 

At the point of eight, having two honours in your own 

* At the Blenheim Club, this law has been established for many years, 
t See Dwchapelles, Rale 106, at page 134. 

15 157 



LONG WHIST BY CARLETON. [PART TV- 

hand, you have the privilege of calling on your partner to 
produce another. Should he do so, you win the game. 

If through error you call without holding two honours, and 
your adversaries hold two or more, they may either demand a 
new deal, or play out that in which the error has been made, 
with the privilege of counting honours before tricks. 

Should a player at the point of eight remind his partner of 
his right to call, after the trump-card is turned, the opposite 
side may, at their option, demand a new deal. 

When a player calls, and his partner neglects to answer, 
though he has the power, they cannot make a " slam f the 
honours in that case take their usual place. 

Should both partners score, and their scores differ, their 
adversaries can compel them to abide by that which they may 
choose. 

Should honours be marked without the right of being so, 
the other side may deduct them from the adversaries' score, 
and add them to their own at any period of the game.* 

Honours shown after the lead has taken place, or at any 
point except eight, do not count, and may be dealt with as 
exposed cards. 

The rubber consists of two games out of three. They who 
first win two games, gain the rubber, which may be from one 
to five points at long, and from one to eight points at short 
whist. 

The term " point" relates to the numbers scored for tricks 
and honours, as well as for the games of a rubber : five points 
of the game reckon as one point in the rubber. 

A game consists of ten points. Should you score these 
before your adversaries have marked five, you win a double : 
if they have scored more than four points, then it is a single. 

When the other side have not scored at all, and you have 
won the game, it is a " lurch," for which you count three. 
(But only if this is agreed on before the game begins. ) 

Should you win the whole thirteen tricks in one band, it is 
called a " Slam." The effect of the slam is dependent upon 
custom or arrangement ; there is no fixed rule, or generally 
adopted practice, that the game which it decides shall or shall 

• Adding the score to your own in this manner is by no means universal 
but is properly recommended by Deschapelles. It is in keeping with tfct 
law in cribbage. 

158 



PART IV.] LAWS. — THE SCORE. COLLUSIVE HINTS. 

not be an integral part of the rubber, or be treated as a per- 
fect rubber in itself. According to Deschapelles, " it is con- 
sidered of the same value as a full rubber." That clever 
writer has some admirable observations on this anomaly which 
we have given in the extracts from his " Principles of the 
Rules of Whist." 

No points can be marked after the second trick of the fol- 
lowing deal has been turned. 

If you have scored more than you are entitled to, you have 
the right to correct the error at any time before the termina- 
tion of the game. 

If, after winning a game you neglect to score the points of 
which it consisted, and another game has been played, you 
cannot score at all, as already observed, unless your adver- 
saries admit that you have won, and in that case you can 
only score one point. At the closing point of the game also, 
as before stated, the court cards in trumps go for nothing. 
A smart commentary was once made upon this loss of privi- 
lege. It was observed to Talleyrand, during a rubber at 
whist, that a certain elderly lady of quality had married her 
footman. " Ah," said the courtier, " at nine we don't count 
honours." 

The score with coins or counters is thus made on the prin- 
ciple that the unit placed above counts for three and below 
for five. 



1 




2 3 4 5 6 

00 000 0000 

00 000 


7 

00 



8 9 or 9 
000 





INTIMATIONS BETWEEN PARTNERS. 

You are entitled to question your partner upon the points » 
" What are trumps ?" " Draw your card." " Can you not 
follow suit V* " Is there not a revoke ?" But these can only 
be put when it is your turn to play. 

You are not entitled to draw your own card, unless required 
by your partner. 

159 



LONG WHIST BT CARLETON. fPART IV. 

MISCELLANEOUS RULES. 

You liave no right to look at the trick that has been taken 
up, unless you are the last player.* 

When the first trick of the deal is turned, and the trump 
turned up has been taken into the dealer's hand, it cannot be 
nil own or named. 

The tricks should be placed in an orderly manner as they 
are taken up, otherwise in cases of dispute the arrangement 
is liable to challenge. 

A card drawn distinctly out of the hand may be dealt with 
as a card actually placed upon the table. 

No penalty attaches to taking up a trick which belongs to 
the adverse party, but they can claim it at any part of the deal. 

If the player intimate that he can win all the remaining 
tricks, he may be required to throw up his cards ; his partner 
must then do the same, and one of the two hands shall be 
" called/' that is, treated as exposed cards, and called 
seriatim. 

If a player throw up his cards, and the next player follow 
his example, the hand is at an end. Such is the law, as it at 
present exists ; but there is a laxity in the practice, a breach 
of system that should not be permitted in a game whose prin- 
ciple is order. All the written authorities that I have con- 
sulted are silent upon the point except Deschapelles, who 
leaves it, after his comment, worse than he found it. " Our 
expressions," he says, " are sometimes designedly indefinite, 
because, upon reflection, having found it necessary to be 
vague, we make a duty of necessity. " Most assuredly this 
paragraph is a perfect example of his philosophy. 

The lead is complete as soon as it has been played to. 

The game is terminated when no dispute has been raised as 
to its progress and result, and the cards are again mingled 
together. 

LOOKERS ON. 

The office, if any, of bystanders at a whist table, is accord- 
ing to the adopted practice, altogether dependent on the 
reference made to them. Upon this head, however, the 
authorities are point blank opposed to each, other. Mr. 
Watson, in his " Short Whist," distinctly states that the rules 

* This is a French rule, based on a correct principle •*" play, but not 
generally enforced in this country. 

160 



Part iv.] lookers on. 

regarding bystanders relate " to all whist." His dictum, on 
this point is, " Should a trick be scored wrongly, or parties 
during play take up a trick they are not entitled to, or 
honours omitted to be scored, or scored when they had them 
not, or a revoke made and not noticed, &c, the bystander 
must remain silent, whatever may be his interest therein/' 
On the other side, Deschapelles declares, "If any points be 
marked which have not been gained, it is the duty of the 
bystanders to mention the circumstance, and to have the error 
rectified. " Mr. Watson represents the English school ; Des- 
chapelles the French. We incline to the former, as silence 
is essentially the attribute of Whist. 

TERMS USED IN THE GAME OF WHIST. 

Bumper — Winning two games in succession before your ad- 
versaries have scored. 
Gutting In — Selecting partners and deciding who shall deal, 

at the commencement of a rubber. 
Cutting Out — Deciding by the lowest cards cut which of two 

persons shall remain in, when one or two are required to 

go out. 
Call, the — When at eight and having two honours in his 

hand, one partner inquires of the other, " Can you one V* 

" Have you an honour?" 
Deal, the — The distribution of the cards from left to right, 

one by one. 
Deal, fresh — When, in consequence of an accident, you are 

entitled to deal again. 
Deal, lost — Deal, miss — The forfeiture of the deal is the result 

of an error coming under the title of mis-deal, as specified 

in the laws. 
Double — Having scored ten before your adversary scores five, 

in the long game ; or five before he scores three, in the 

short game. 
Eldest Hand — The player on the dealer's left hand. 
Finesse — Literally passing by your best card, and playing one 

of less value. 
Forcing — Playing a card that compels your adversary or youi 

partner to part with a trump. 
Band — The thirteen cards dealt to each player. 
Honours — Ace, king, queen, and knave of trumps. 

15* 161 



LONG WHIST BY CARLETON [PART IV 

Ting Cccrd — The highest card unplayed of a suit. 

Lead, the — The commencement of the play by the person on 

the dealer's left, or the card played by the winner of a trick 

immediately after having won it. 
Long Trumps — The last of the suit of trumps. 
Longs — The game of long whist. 

Love — When you have scored and your adversaries have not. 
Love Game — A game won in which one side does not score 

at all. 
Loose Cards — Those of any suit, except trumps, which from 

the strength of the other hands are useless. 
Points — The score made by tricks or honours. 
Quart- -Sequence of any four cards. 
Quart Major — Sequence of ace, king, queen, and knave. 
Quint — Sequence of five, the quint major being the sequence 

of the five highest cards of a suit. 
Renounce — Not holding a card of the suit led. 
Revoke — Pla\ ing a different card from the suit led, though it 

is in the player's power to follow suit. 
Rubber — Two games won consecutively, or two out of three 

games, constitute winning the rubber. 
Ruffing — Playing a trump to any other suit. 
Sequences — Cards that follow in regular order of value. 
See- Saw — Partners trumping each a suit and playing to each 

other for that purpose. 
Score — The points marked by coins or counters, as described 

under the head of the score. 
Shorts — Short whist. 
Slam, a — One side winning all the tricks. 
Single — (at long whist) — Scoring the game after your adver- 
sary has scored five or more ; at short whist, after he has 

scored four. 
Tenace — When the last to play holds the best and third best 

of a suit. 
Treble — (at short whist) — is scoring five before your adversary 

scores one. 
Tricks — Four cards, that is, the three played to a card led, 

constitute a trick. 
Trump, the — The card turned up by the dealer. 
Trumps — Cards of the same suit as that turned up by the 

dealer. 
162. 






PART IV. J WHIST — ITS SYSTEM AND SCIENCE, 

Under-play — The leader playing a small card, though he 
holds the best of the suit. 

" If Hercules and Lyclias play at dice, 
Which is the better man 7 The greater throw 
May turn by fortune from the weaker hand: 
So is Alcides beaten by his page*" — Shakspeare. 

Though not altogether exempt from the operations of for- 
tune or chance, this "sublime game" is more an essay of 
skill and science than any played with cards. For this rea- 
son, if the utilitarian will insist upon classing it among the 
frivolous pursuits of life, he cannot deny that it has many 
properties which, in a degree, make amends for its want of 
high end and purpose. The lists then being arranged, and 
entered according to the preliminaries already set forth, let 
us imagine the first blow about to be struck : Le premier pas 
qui coute. This is the lead. " The first card that is played 
in a deal is generally a mistake." So, according to our 
French professor of whist, said a player of the game, so 
famous for his skill, that before the last trick was played, he 
could name every card of which it would consist.* Whatevei 
force attaches to this opinion, I cannot do better than follow 
M. Deschapelles in his analysis of this important step. 

Deschapelles loquitur : — " The difference which exists be 
tween the beginning and the end of a deal at whist is incalcu- 
lable. It sets out in ignorance and obscurity, guided by instinct 
and chance, supported by invention and talent. It finishes in 
experience, guided by positive evidence, and supported by the 
light of mathematical deduction. A deal at whist may, there 
fore, be considered as a graduated scale of intelligence, begin- 
ning with the inventive faculty, and ending with mathematical 
demonstration j and we may easily imagine that the intellec- 
tual powers are not unemployed during its continuation. Every 
single faculty of the mind, one by one, is successively engaged 
in the operation ; every class of mental agency, and every 
shade of intelligence is in some degree called into action ; and 
the continual change in the faculty employed prevents too 
laborious an exertion of intellect, keeps up excitement to the 
end, and produces the highest degree of pleasure. 

r< To explain this more clearly, and following the degree of 

* Many English players not only do this, but can also tell from wh&l 
hands the cards will come. 

163 



lONG WHIST BY CARLETON. [PART IV 

division adopted by geographers and natural philosophers, we 
shall divide a deal of whist into two parts. Let us suppose a 
parabola described by the fall of a cannon-ball, whose culmi- 
nating point shall be the seventh or odd trick. On this side 
of the above point invention is the ruling agent of the game ; 
beyond it calculation. Attention and memory are seated at 
its base, and sagacity, placed at its summit, portions out the 
task, invokes, by turns, all the instruments which contribute 
to its completion, urges on or circumscribes their endeavours, 
and prescribes to them, at the appointed time, the repose ne- 
cessary to maintain their vigour. 

" The beginner at whist is not entirely destitute of some 
notion of the game. Firstly, he has before his eyes his thir- 
teen cards, the trump card, and the position of the game ; 
and again, he is acquainted with the strength of the players, 
and has some idea of a system of play. But these advantages 
are trifling, when compared with what remains to be learnt, 
and with tiiv.se probabilities which arise from the fall of every 
card as the round advances. To the indolent these advan- 
tages will ever remain a hidden talent ; nor is it likely that 
chance will improve them ; to the hesitating and doubtful, as 
they do not appear in a sufficiently tangible form, they will 
be lost in imagination and caprice ; but when placed in the 
hands of the investigating and sagacious, they will increase 
with study and practice ; they will grow with the growth of 
genius, and at length invest it with a regular and palpable 
system, which, gradually disengaging itself from the obscure 
and probable, will at length be enabled to draw inferences 
amounting to almost a positive certainty. 

" The leading of the round should be preceded by reflection. 
Some time may be found for the latter, an excuse for which 
may be made in arranging the cards, and reviewing the 
strength of our hand. This, of course, will not confuse the 
memory, that great organ by which our game is regulated, 
because it is not yet called into action. This interval will be 
well employed, as it will give an opportunity of laying down 
the frame-work of that web whence all the threads of action 
proceed, and from which an effect is to be produced. The 
time thus spent in reflection will be well repaid, and the 
sequel will yield most beneficial results; for every second 
thus employed, will afterwards produce a ten-fold interest. 
164 



PART IV.] DESCHAPELLES' PRINCIPLES OF THE GAME. 

The cards will flow in such rapid succession from your hand, 
that your adversaries will be wholly unable to draw any in- 
ductions from them injurious to your game ; and your part- 
ner, excited by your calm and collected manner, and atten- 
tively seconding your efforts, will feel sometimes inspired by 
a spark of that feeling of concord which destroys all separate 
existence, and makes us consider ourselves as parts of a 
whole ; that feeling which is so instantaneous in its action, 
and so surprising in its effects ; so subtile in its essence, and 
yet productive of such miracles ! 

u A round at whist sometimes appears like a shapeless mass, 
in which common light seems to possess little or no influence. 
Under these circumstances, we must view it in a summary 
manner, and consider its general tendencies, by which means 
we shall acquire a guide to enlighten us in that obscurity in 
which nothing can be distinctly perceived. 

" If you play the king when you hold the ace, or lead with a 
tierce to the king, by king and queen, or even by the true in- 
vite, you thus make a parade of your means without rendering 
them available ; you give information to the enemy, who by 
this means can proceed to action with a greater degree of cer- 
tainty ; and who thus boldly plays out his suits according to his 
knowledge of your strength ; besides this, your position ren- 
ders it impossible for you to gain the same information of the 
weakness or strength of your adversaries ; for, when you have 
the lead, you will often be puzzled to decide upon what card to 
play, and thus you will commence the contest, deprived of all 
your resources, and hampered in your expedients. Then per- 
haps you will regret that you did not entice your antagonists 
into some act by which the state of their hands would have 
been exposed, or their weakness revealed to your knowledge. 

" Suppose you lead with a queen, knave, or ten with a se- 
quence ; then the trick will be taken by the ace on your left, 
although the same hand should hold the king, or the tierce 
major : or else the lead will fall to your right-hand adversary, 
without your acquiring, in either case, the slightest idea of 
"*here the cards lie. In the case above stated, your partner, at 
any rate, is informed, but here it will be frequently the enemy ; 
and when the lead returns to your hand, at the risk of being 
entrapped by your antagonists and incurring a double loss of 
time, you will be perplexed about changing the suit. 

165 



LONG WHIST BY CARLETON. [PART IV 

" If you lead by a false invite, or by a queen or knave ; in 
the former case, you may deprive your partner of his best 
means of defence, and in the latter, you may fall into the 
adversaries' strongest suit, and involve yourself in utter ruin. 

" Suppose you lead by a true invite ; here again, your chance 
of success may be weak, especially if it be true, that, in order 
to discover the state of your partner's hand, you must play 
from a weak suit ; besides, such a mode of play, even when 
successful, is not accompanied with important results, and if 
you are not supported, your means are crippled for the re- 
mainder of the round. 

11 Suppose you lead a trump ; if you are strong in trumps, 
they are weakened by the lead, and thus, giving your antago- 
nists timely notice of your strength, they will unite their 
efforts, and strain every nerve to save the game ; if, on the 
other hand, you are weak in trumps, you have thus initiated 
your adversaries, and taught them their own power; you 
have been the first to provoke the contest, and draw upon 
yourself the inevitable and disastrous consequences of your 
indiscretion, and every succeeding moment of the round, by 
contributing to expose your weakness, will confirm your im- 
pending fate, and at length complete your destruction. 

" The lead of a deal at whist is directed by invention in a 
descending scale of progression, from the first trick down to 
the seventh. 

" The second part of the deal begins between the sixth and 
the eighth trick. All plans of finessing and stratagems dis- 
appear now that the action of the game itself comes into play. 
The scheming of the players is now revealed, the position of 
the cards more palpable, and the fate of the game, to a cer- 
tain degree, evident. This moment comes sooner or later to 
different players, in proportion to the attention they bestow 
on the game ; it depends, in a great measure, on the will of 
the player, on the interest which he takes in playing, and, 
consequently, on his desire or indifference for gain." 

Before he shows his card, the dealer will bear in mind that 
the object he has in view is two-fold — to win the game, and 
to prevent his adversary from doing so. Let him give no 
clue to the adverse party by the fashion in which he sorts his 
suits. Eschew a uniform mode of arrangement, at all events 
166 



PART TV.] THE DEAL AND ITS ARRANGEMENT. 

Do not always place your trumps to the right or left, and 
your strongest suit next to them. Establish a habit of play- 
ing your cards as you take them up ; it will not cost you 
much effort, and you will find it, like virtue, its own reward. 
With bad cards lead them so as least to damage your part- 
ner's hand. Opinions differ as to the policy of leading from 
a single card, when there is a weakness in trumps. Still, 
when you are weak, there is the more probability that your 
partner may be strong. The following table of the odds as 
to the probable arrangement of the pack, after it is dealt, will 
serve to demonstrate the balance of chances. 

It is just 2 to 1 against your partner holding any one card. 

It is rather more than even that he holds one card out of 
any two. 

It is nearly 3 to 1 that he does not hold two of any three. 

It is 5 to 2 in favour of his having one out of three. 

It is 6 to 4 against his having two cards out of four. 

It is 4 to 1 in favour of his holding one card of any four. 

It is nearly 8 to 1 against his holding any two cards. 

These odds refer to the occasion in which you are the 
dealer. If your partner deal, it is 26 to 12 against his hold- 
ing any particular card, and a fraction of odds less against 
either of your adversaries. Many other points in the odds 
will suggest themselves, such as that it is 13 to 1 against the 
dealer having four by honours in his own hand, and so forth 
Still there are refinements of calculation that cannot b( 
brought to bear upon a general system of whist practice. 
Returning to suggestions for the leader, if he hold good cards, 
let him begin with his best suit ; best as regards the value of 
the cards and their number. But if you have a sequence, 
begin with that. " From sequences are safe leads, and gene- 
rally good," says Admiral Burney. " The safest leads are 
from sequences," reiterates Major A. Failing these, but 
being strong in trumps, as well as cards of other suits, out 
with the trumps, that your strong suits may be secured from 
all possible peril. 

THE LEAD. 

Should you have the ace and four small cards, not in 
trumps, lead your ace, and then play a small one. If your 
lead be from a sequence, play the highest, unless the sequence 

167 



LONG WHIST BY CARLETON. [PART IV 

be to a king. In that case begin with a small one, which 
will compel your partner to part with his ace ; or the left- 
hand adversary may pass it, should he hold it, and then yon 
have the lead again. It is impossible, however, to give pre- 
cise rules for playing sequences of every kind. 

With ace, king, and three others in trumps, and you have 
another five suit, or strong suit, play the king of trumps, and 
then show your partner your long suit, which if he wins, he 
will immediately return a trump, thereby enabling you to 
finesse or not, as you may deem advisable by the fall of the 
cards. 

If you are compelled to lead either from a queen or a 
knave, lead the strongest card ; it will serve to throw more 
strength into your partner's hand. 

With only ace, king, queen, lead the king ; then play the 
queen, and you tell your partner where the ace is. 

With king and queen unguarded, should you make your 
king, play the queen forthwith, lest it fall to your partner's ace 

With king, queen, and three others of a suit not trumps, 
lead the king. 

With ace, king, and some small ones of a suit not trumps, 
when your partner drops the knave to either of your high 
cards, lead him a small card of the same suit. By this means 
he makes his queen, should he hold it, or a small trump. 

But if you are weak in trumps yourself, it is best to go on 
with your winning card j but with strong suits not in trumps, 
show your partner your game, and then play trumps whatever 
your number. By this means you have a better chance of 
making tricks. 

If with only one trump and a good hand, play one of your 
winning cards, and then the trump. When it is discovered 
you have no more, your partner should get them out as fast 
as he is able, and give you the chance of your long suit. 

If compelled to lead from weak cards, such as queen, knave, 
or a ten, play the highest, as the only means you have of 
strengthening your partner's hand. 

Avoid, when in your power, leading from ace, queen, or 
any tenace. It is, however, better to lead from ace, queen, 
or ace, knave, and others of a suit, than to open a weak suit. 

Do not keep back the highest card of your partner's best 
•uit, lest he imagine that it is in an adversary's hand, and it 
168 



PART IV.] RULES FOR THE LEAD OF FIRST HAND. 

should hinder him from carrying out his prospect for playing 
his hand. 

It is by no means essential that a lead should be imme- 
diately returned. Let the player work out his own plans, 
always bearing in mind his partner's lead, and returning it 
when the best opportunity presents itself. 

Mark your adversaries' strength, and, if possible, retain a 
r;ard that shall command it. But do not keep a card that 
you have any reason to suppose might fall to your partner's 
trump. 

If your left-hand adversary pass a winning card, without 
trumping it, note the suit he throws away, and on the first 
opportunity play a winning card of the same suit, should you 
hold one. 

When you have reason to think your right-hand adversary 
weak in any suit, but holding small cards of it, lead it the 
moment you can. 

Should you win a trick as last player, you may more safely 
play the same suit than lead one in which you know both 
yourself and your partner to be weak ; as it is bad policy to 
open a new suit, when the hand is advanced, unless you have 
good cards in that suit. 

Do not lead from ace, queen, or from ace, knavs, unless 
the suit be a long one, as the probable consequence will be 
that you do not score more than one point ) whereas by wait- 
ing till led up to, you have a fair prospect of making a couple 
of tricks. 

It is, however, better to lead from ace, queen, or ace, 
knave, than to open a weak suit. 

With ace and four small trumps, lead the lowest; in all 
other suits, lead the ace, unless when you have a command in 
trumps. 

Never lead a king when it is the only card of a suit you 
hold. Even should the ace be against you, there is still a 
chance of its passing, should it be led to you, when last 
player. 

Some risk the last card of a suit when the trumps are 
nearly exhausted. 

It is a miserable experiment to lead out a small card, being 
the only one of the suit, with a view to making your small 
trumps. When you hold but one of a suit, some one else 

16 169 



LONG WHIST BY CARLETON. [PART IV 

must have several. Should this be an adversary, he will at 
once detect your object, and set to work to draw out the 
trumps. Moreover, it may ruin your partner's hand, for as 
soon as the trumps are all exhausted, he will probably return 
your lead. But though it be condemned as a habit, it may 
sometimes be judicious in a player who adopts it rarely, and 
is therefore not suspected. 

Nevertheless, with five or six small trumps, you make cer- 
tain to lead from a single card. 

Should you hold five trumps, get out two rounds of them ; 
this will leave you three ; and should your partner hold two, 
your adversaries at the most will have but two left between 
them. This ensures the command to your hand, with the 
means of carrying out your partner's game. 

But should you possess a strong hand in trumps, and a 
long suit of other small cards also, lead from the latter, and 
thus endeavour to make something of what remains to you 
of it. Being short in two suits, you must presently be forced, 
which will materially affect the chance of your bringing in 
your long suit. Being forced, then pursue your suit, and 
this may cause the opposite side, should they get the lead, to 
lead trumps. This still favours your chance of making your 
suit much more than if you had begun with trumps. 

Unless some positive mischief or risk attach to it, return 
your partner's lead in trumps. 

Should a king or queen be turned up. on your left hand, 
lead through it : if your partner, desire to get the trumps out, 
he must, under the circumstances, attempt it at a disadvan- 
tage. 

Having a long suit, which you wish to bring in, lead from 
that first, and then lead a trump ; your partner will compre- 
hend your purpose. 

With the four suits equally distributed, do not hesitate to 
begin with the trumps. 

With ace, king, queen of trumps, and a small one, having 
another strong suit, though the cards be inferior, do not force 
more than one round of trumps before you commence with 
your long suit. 

Should your partner not trump a winning card, played by 
an adversary, and he have none of the suit, then play a trump 
the moment the lead falls to you. 
170 



PART IV.] RULES TOR PLATING THE SECOND HAND. 

If left with but one trump, and that the ace, and your 
adversaries are strong in the suit, play your ace. 

Seeing your partner is best in trumps, do not force him, 
without some important point be at issue. But if he has 
been forced, without returning trumps, then do not spare 
him. 

With four trumps, lead one : should your partner lead up 
to a suit in which you are out, with a view to establish a ruff, 
give him credit for a good hand of trumps also. 

If an adversary leads trumps, and from your own hand you 
know that he must be weak in them, do not return his lead, 
his object being to get out the trumps, to get in a suit in 
which he is strong. 

If three trumps only remain out, and of these you hold two, 
play one of them, so that, should the lead fall to you or your 
partner, his suit shall run no risk of being stopped. 

Having the " long trumps," play one, to ascertain what suit 
your partner throws away to it. 

Suppose yourself and partner without a trump between 
you, and each of the opposite party furnished with them, do 
not play a thirteenth card, or any that may enable them to 
make their trumps separately. 

Having ace, king, knave, of trumps, only, play the king, 
and then stop. This will tell your partner how the honours 
lie, and you may finesse your knave, as the queen may be on 
your right hand. 

At the point of eight, should you hold two honours, unless 
from the advanced state of your adversaries' score, or weak- 
ness of your other suits, you have fears for the game, it is 
the better policy not to call. 

With but a single trump in your hand, unless it be king, 
or there be other urgent reasons to the contrary, lead it ; 
when your partner returns it, he takes two for his one. 

Never lose sight of the fact, that the lead is the great move 
in the game of whist : have ever in mind the saying, not more 
trite than true, " the first blow is half the battle." 

SECOND HAND. 

When your suits are strong, play small cards as a prin- 
ciple. 

If you hold ace, king, and some small ones, make the first 

171 



LONG WHIST BY CARLETON. [PARS IT. 

and second trick, as the odds are in favour of the third round 
being trumped. 

Should you, as second player, have ace, king, and knave, 
of a suit only, win with the ace, and wait. If your right-hand 
adversary repeat the same lead with a higher card than his 
first, then finesse with your knave, as he led, you may be sure, 
from his queen. And even if he did not, you remain with 
the command of his suit. 

If you hold a sequence in a suit led, play the lowest card 
in it. 

Having ace, king, and queen, win with the ace ; this will 
induce your left-hand adversary to return his partner's 
lead. 

If you hold the ace, ten, and a lower card, should the 
queen be led, play the lowest, as should your partner win it, 
it may enable you to make up the other tricks of that suit. 
But should the card led win, do not, on the next round, 
finesse with your ten, as most probably the king is with your 
right-hand adversary. 

Having ace, knave, and another, when the king is led, it 
is sometimes as well to pass it, as the adversary supposing the 
ace to be in his partner's hand, may repeat the lead, and 
thereby enable you to make both. But this mode of play is 
dangerous out of trumps, and like many other niceties, re- 
quires caution and experience. 

"With king and queen, play the queen: with queen and 
knave, play the smaller ; and so with the other cards. 

Holding the ace and another, in most cases play the lowest. 

If you have ace, queen, and ten, and the lead, put on the 
queen ; by playing the ten, it is five to four that you lose it ; 
but if in trumps, put on the ten, which if the third player 
wins, may induce him to return the suit to your tenace. 

If a knave is led, and you hold the queen, put it on ; if 
lost, you draw two honours to your one. 

Should you trump a thirteenth card, it must be with your 
highest trump. 

With the ten and two smaller cards, put on a small one, if 
it be the first round. But if it be the second, and your right- 
hand adversary leads a low card, play your ten ; it may save 
or strengthen your partner's hand. 

If strong in trumps, avoid trumping uncertain cards j but 
172 



PART IV.J RULES FOR PLATING THE THIRD HAND. 

if your hand be weak in trumps, trump the adverse lead 
whenever you can do so, unless you know that your partner 
has the best of the suit. Never throw away the chance of a 
trick; for your trumps would, as a matter of course, be sacri- 
ficed, when trumps were led ; and even should your partner 
hold winning cards of the suit you ruff, they will most pro- 
bably come into play before the hand is finished. 

It is generally good to trump the second round of a suit 
led by your adversary, especially if you are weak in trumps. 

If your hand be strong in trumps, and you can win the 
right-hand lead of trumps once only, it is good to pass it, as 
you give your partner the chance of gaining that trick, and 
in any case you will hold the command of the adversaries' 
lead. 

With king and one other, or " king singly guarded," as it 
is called, it is usual to play the king, the chances being that 
your adversary leads from the ace. 

With only queen and one other, not trumps, play the lessei 
card, because the chances are that your right-hand adversary 
did not lead from two honours in the suit ; and then if youi 
left-hand adversary has the king ; and your partner the ace of 
the suit, the latter wins the trick, and you make your queen; 
therefore winning two tricks in your adversary's suit. The 
old jingle of " King ever, Queen never," is a sound maxim, 
although many of the old players (Aubrey, Tippoo, Smith, 
Lind, Franco, Pacey, and others) disapprove of all play by 
the second hand beyond covering the card led. 

Should the highest remaining card of a suit be led to you, 
and you cannot follow suit, trump it, notwithstanding you 
know your left-hand adversary will over-trump you. But in 
case you fear the same lead may again occur, should your 
right-hand adversary again have the power of leading, win it 
if possible, and go on with trumps. 

If you cannot win, play your worst card : if you cannot 
follow suit, or trump, throw away the least likely card to be 
made available by any circumstances of the game. 

THE THIRD HAND. 

With ace, queen, finesse with the queen, and if it wins, 
play the ace. In all other cases, when your partner leads a 

16* 173 



LONG WHIST BY CARLETON. [PART IT. 

small card, put on your best, and having won, return the suit 
unless you are strong in it. 

Should the second best card of a suit be led by your part- 
ner (we are now speaking of the opening rounds of a deal.) 
if it be the first or second round, and you cannot follow suit, 
do not ruff it. but play a card of your weakest suit, unless 
your hand be very strong, and you have no cards to throw 
away. In the event of your trumping, the best would be re- 
served, and your partner would be prevented getting a com- 
mand in the suit through the deal. 

The third hand has the best and most frequent opportuni- 
ties for finessing. As that, the most scientific principle of 
the game, is elsewhere, fully treated, it is only alluded to in 
these maxims when absolutely necessary for the matter at 
issue. Thus with ace, queen, and others, the third player 
usually finesses with his queen, and returns the ace. 

Should your partner lead an ace, and then play a queen, 
the probabilities are the knave and some others are in his 
hand. If you have the king put it on his queen, and this 
will leave his suit open, then if you have a good command in 
trumps play them. 

Should your partner play a thirteenth card to you, if the 
left-hand adversary has shown a weakness in trumps, put on 
a good one and win the trick. If this be not so. reserve your 
trump, should the suit be at all exhausted, and let the fourth 
hand be forced. Occasionally, a thirteenth card is led, to 
enable a partner to make his strong trumps separately : occa- 
eionally you should sacrifice your own trump to his lead, that 
his best remaining trump may be good. 

When a right-hand adversary calls, should your partner 
lead through him, and you have ace, king, nine, and oth 
finesse the latter : if a left-hand adversary neglect to call when 
at eight, or does not answer the call of his partner, then 
finesse the ten, if you have it. 



THE FOURTH HAND. 

Should the trick be against you, win it if you can. 
In the event of the third player having answered his part- 
ner's lead with a good card unsuccessfullv, should the winnei 

174 



PART IV.] SEQUENCES, <£C. 

of the trick have no good suit of his own to lead from, let 
him return the lead of his adversary. His own partner may 
be strong in it, and he knows his adversary's partner has 
parted with the best he had. 

It is a most important policy to lead through a hand strong 
in a suit, in which the last player is known to be weak. 
Such an opportunity is well worth purchasing at the cost of 
winning your partner's trick, more especially towards the lat- 
ter part of the deal. 

Having but two cards of a suit, win your partner's trick 
with one, and return the other. 

Should you hold a sequence, win with the lowest, and re- 
turn the highest. 

Do not be forced to play trumps unless it suits your hand ; 
it is better to throw away a loose card. 

SEQUENCES. 

Whether you lead, or play second, or third hand, should 
you hold the two highest cards of the suit, sequences, play 
one of them, if a higher card has not been played already. 

With king and queen of a suit in your hand, it would be 
poor policy to let the knave win ; in like manner all sequences 
may be beneficially dealt with. 

With king, queen, and three small trumps, lead the king. 
Should it win, and your object be to force trumps, go on with 
a small one, taking the chance of your opponents having 
reserved the ace. 

In all cases where you lead from a sequence, commence 
with the best, save only with a long sequence to the king, 
when, by beginning with a low card, you give your partner 
the opportunity of making his ace, or rather of getting it out 
of your way. If you wish your partner not to finesse, you 
should lead the lowest of a sequence. 

With tierce to the queen, you lead the queen ; the second 
player puts on his king ; your partner, having the ace, plays 
it of course, which he would not have done, had the king not 
have been played. Thus you place the king in jeopardy, 
from which he cannot escape. Had you led the ten, the 
second player would have reserved his king, and your partner 
all the same, have put his ace on. 

175 



INDICATIONS AND INFEKENCE8. [PART IV. 

When your sequence is led up to through, play the lowest 
of it, that your partner may be taught your strength in the 
suit. 



INDICATIONS AND INFERENCES. 

Should the ace fall from the second hand in the first round 
of i suit, it is fair to conclude that he is either very strong 
i. t, or has only the one card. 

Should there be a renounce in which a court card is thrown 
away, it indicates that the holder of it has a high sequence in 
the suit, or perhaps no other, or wishes a trump played. 

When you have cleared away all your trumps, avoid play- 
ing a suit from which your partner threw away, when he 
could no longer follow your trump lead. He is weak in that 
suit. If he has thrown away more than one suit, play that 
which he threw away last. 

When a suit is ruffed, and he who wins plays the ace 
of trumps and then stops, be sure that is the last of his 
trumps. 

Should you hold the next best of a sequence that has been 
led, you may suspect the lead was from a single card, and 
with a view to a ruff. 

When there is no call at the point of eight, and you do not 
hold an honour yourself, the odds are your partner has two. 
You may model your game by that presumption. 

With ace, king, win with the king; if leader, begin with 
the king ; and if it be trumped, or you think right to change 
the suit, your partner may shrewdly guess where the 
ace is. 

The call at eight is a hint to your partner to play trumps, 
whatever else come of it. 

When the last player wins with a high card, and then leads 
a lower one with the same suit, with which he might equally 
have taken the trick, it is assumed that he has all the inter- 
mediate cards. 

A SYNOPSIS OF THE ODDS. 

These calculations, of course, are based upon the supposi- 
tion that the players are of equal skill. They are, by no 
176 



PART rv.] 



ODDS. 



means, put forth as absolutely accurate in their estimate ; but 
merely as offering a fair average of the chances wnich may 
serve to guide those who speculate on a ruober at whist, 
and rather to add to its interest, than with a view to gain or 
gambling. 







ODDS IN THE POINTS SCORED. 








With the Deal. 






1 point to "love" . . 11 to 10 


9 to 2 . . . 


7 to 


2 


2 


... 5— 4 


4 — 3 . . . 


•» 


6 


3. 




. . 3— 2 


5 — 3 . . 


• 7 — 


5 


4. 




. . 7—4 


6 — 3 .. i 


. 7 — 


3 


5. 




. . 7—3 


7—3 . . 


. 7 — 


4 


6. 




... 5— 2 


8 — 3 . . 


.. 7 — 


2 


7. 




. . 7—2 


9 — 3 . . 


.. 3 — 


1 


8. 




..5—1 


5 — 4 .. . 


. 6 — 


5 


9 . 




. . 9— 2 


6 — 4 .. . 


. 6 — 


4 


2 to 1 . 


. . 9—8 


7—4 . . . 


. 2 — 


1 


3 — 1 . . 


. .. 9— 7 


6 — 4 . . , 


. 3 — 


1 


4 — 1 . . . 


... 9— 6 


9—4 . . . 


. 5 — 


2 


5 — 1 . . 


. . 9— 5 


6 — 5 . . 


. 5 — 


4 


6 — 1 .. . 


... 9— 4 


7 — 5 .. 


. 5 — 


3 


7 — 1 .. , 


... 9— 3 


8 — 5 .. 


.. 5 — 


2 


8 — 1 . . 


. .. 9— 2 


9 — 5 .. 


. . 2 — 


1 


9 — 1 . . 


. . . . 4— 1 


7 — 6 .. 


. . 4 — 


3 


3 — 2 . 


. .. 8— 7 


8 — 6 .. 


. . 2 — 


1 


4 — 2 . 


, .. 4— 3 


9 — 6 . . 


.. 7 — 


4 


5 — 2 .. 


.. .. 8— 5 


8 — 7 .. 


. . 3 — 


2 


6 — 2 . . 


.. .. 2— 1 


9 — 7 .. 


..12 — 


8 


7 — 2 .. 


.. . . 8—3 


9 — 8 .. 


. .100 — 


103 J 


8- 


-2 . . 


. . .- 4— 1 


1 







Having the deal is one point in twenty in your favour at 
long whist, and 6 to 5 in the short game. Having won the 
first game at long or short is 3 to 1 in your favour. At long 
whist whatever points you are over your adversaries, if the 
eighth, make the calculation as from ten downwards. Thus, 
when you are at seven, and they have scored two, the odds 
are 8 to 3 on your side : if you are five to their three, they 
are 7 to 5 on you. At nine love, however, the odds are only 
9 to 2, for then you are " in the well," as the phrase goes, you 

177 



DtJMBY. [PART IV 

have forfeited the right to score honours. At short whist, 
with the first game one, and four points be'fore your adversa- 
ries have scored, it is 5 to 1 you win the rubber. 



DUMBY, OR THREE-HANDED WHIST. 

This game is played exactly in the same manner as four- 
handed Whist, with the exception that one of the hands, that 
called Dumby, lies exposed and spread on the table through- 
out the game, and is played by the partner to whom it is 
allotted, in conjunction with his own. 

Three persons draw from the pack in the usual manner, 
and he who draws the lowest card takes Dumby as his part- 
ner, and the deal, with the choice of cards and seat. 

When the rubber is over, it becomes the turn of the party 
who had cut the next lowest card to take Dumby, with all its 
privileges, choosing another seat or keeping his own. 

When the second rubber is finished, the third player takes 
the Dumby, and this is called having a round at Dumby. 

In distributing the cards, the hand of Dumby is dealt as 
usual, and then the partner arranges them as he pleases, with 
the faces upwards. Dumby has his deal in turn. 

The advantage which the partner of Dumby is supposed to 
derive from playing a hand which he can see, and therefore 
adapt to his own, is generally supposed to be about one point 
in ten in the long game, and five to four in the short, in the 
rubber; and sometimes a point is given by Dumby' s partner 
on each rubber. 

Deschapelles says, " Among players of moderate preten- 
sions, the defender has a trifle the best of it ; among good 
players, it is equal ; and among first-rate players, the assail- 
ants have the best by a trifle." 

The same authority says, that " In playing this game, deci- 
sive strokes are in favour of the defence (i. e. Dumby) in the 
first rounds, after which the advantage gradually leans to 
the assailants." He therefore recommends that the defender 
should act with energy in the commencement, having little or 
nothing to hope when the play assumes its regular course. 
On the other side, it behoves the assailants to watch with 
178 



PART IV.] DOUBLE DUMBY 

patience till they see clearly the best course open for theii 
adoption. 

It will be self-evident to a whist player, that the adversary 
who sits on the left of Dumby should always lead or play up 
to what he sees to be the weak suits, and that he who sits on 
the right should lead or play through the strong ones. 

The laws and regulations are, with two or three exceptions, 
and these not quite agreed, the same as those of the parent 
game. The principle of three-handed whist, as regards the 
acts and liabilities of Dumby, is a spirit of mutual responsi- 
bility, and this should influence the game in all its bearings. 
Dumby may fairly be exempted from fines which arise from 
errors committed in sight of, and therefore it may be said 
with the acquiescence of, both parties. A new deal, in most 
cases, is as much as the adversaries should have a right to 
claim against Dumby. 

If Dumby' s partner lead out of turn, the adversaries may 
either insist upon the card led, or call a suit from either 
hand. By special exception, Dumby cannot make a revoke ; 
the oversight may be remedied by a new deal. 

As regards the other players, more particularly as respects 
acts not dependent on Dumby, there seems no reason why 
they should be allowed any exemptions. 



DOUBLE DUMBY. 

Is when two persons only play, each having his partner's 
cards laid faced upon the table. 

Each player and the two Dumbies take the deal in turn, 
and are liable to all the laws previously stated. 

Although cards will " beat their makers," the game of 
Double Dumby is more in favour of the best player than any 
other at whist. It undoubtedly is very instructive to the 
novice, and has been recommended by high authorities as the 
best mode of studying the game. 

Dumby is rarely played, excepting in default of a fourth to 
make up the battle, and then the dead hand is usually taken 
by the three players turn about. The French name for this 
game is La Mort. 

179 



SHORT WHIST BY CARLETON. [PART TV. 



SHORT WHIST: ITS SYSTEM AND SCIENCE 

About thirty years or more ago,* this refinement upon the 
popular game of whist became current, and among the more 
exclusive circles soon took the lead of its predecessor. — 
" We anticipate the time," observes Deschapelles, " in which 
this modification will get so much the upper hand of the ori- 
ginal game as entirely to supersede it, and cause its articles 
of law to be referred to only as ancient and forgotten archives. 
To this usurpation we have no objections to offer, both games 
possess powerful attractions ; and the pleasure of re-adopting 
the slam and honours would be much diminished by the loss 
of that excitement which short whist promotes. . . . When 
we consider the sociable feeling it engenders, the pleasure and 
vivacity it promotes, and the advantages it offers to the less 
skilful player, we cannot help acknowledging that short whist 
is a decided improvement, because, however it may lose in 
theory, it is infinitely superior to the other game in practice. 
Some persons, perhaps, imagine that there is a vast difference 
between the rules of the two games. This is not true ; they 
are positively the same. To divide the game into two parts 
does not divest it of any of its essential qualities ; it is still 
treble, double, or single, and is quite as amusing as before. 
The * call' is not admitted, but what does that signify ? It 
was at best but a trifling gratification, and its absence will 
soon be forgotten. The call was, indeed, a matter of insig- 
nificance, and certainly did not deserve the consideration 
bestowed upon it in the articles. And, besides, it was a pri- 
vilege of such small importance that we cannot, in any point 
of view, regret its abrogation. . . . But what shall we say of 
the slam ? This is, indeed, a real loss. The slam is wanting 
to the completion of the game, without it whist is imperfect, 
and in this particular is inferior to many other games, even 
ecarte has its vole. . . . But as the mischief is done, all we 
have to do is to console ourselves for our loss, and bear it 
with equanimity. The slam did not count for the game : 

* See anecdote of its introduction, page 147. 

180 



PART IV.] OPINIONS OF DESCHAPELLES. — THE SLAM. 

players have been known to avoid winning the game, and 
thus betray their partners, because their bets made it more 
advantageous. Rubbers have been sometimes prolonged to a 
tedious length by means of repeated ' slams/ thus fatiguing 
both the betters and players. Players have been known to 
diminish their stakes by three-fourths, from the remembrance 
that the slam involved them in a greater loss than they were 
inclined to incur ; or, fearing their own want of skill, have 
declined playing, from an opinion that the slam gave an un- 
fair advantage to the experienced player." 

" One thing is beyond a doubt, that the delay caused by the 
slam is a constant disadvantage to the game. Without it the 
superior force of the enemy is frequently discovered after two 
or three cards are out, and the game, consequently, thrown 
up. Sometimes eight or ten hands are thrown up, by which 
proceeding much time is gained. This frequently occurs, espe- 
cially at short whist, when the game is so soon decided that 
it may be given up at any point. The admission of the slam 
was directly opposed to these advantages, and the delays and 
tediousness which it caused, are by no means compensated by 
any equivalent. Short whist, however, though somewhat 
shorn of its proportions, is still a very interesting game. We 
might write whole chapters on the ' little slam/ or the ' five 
honours/ of those tricks and honours which may be paid for, 
and on that load of silly inventions which have obtained a 
reputation merely because they are foreign importations, but 
which, in reality, are as devoid of merit as they are innu- 
merable. "* 

The laws of this game are, as already said, in principle 
identical with those of long whist. It differs from it in the 
score, inasmuch as the game is five up in lieu of ten, one 
point saves a triple game ; three points a double. The rub- 
ber reckons two points, making eight points altogether. 
Honours do not count at four, neither can they be " called" 
at any period of the game. Its rules of practice, according 
to the most generally adopted system among modern players 
of authority, vary, in some respects, from the laws of Hoyle 
and his followers. These differences I proceed to specify, with 
this suggestion, afforded in all earnestness, that their recog- 

• The great French authority seems here at issue with himself as regard* 
the value of the slam: we give it as he writes. — Ed. 

17 181 



SHORT WHIST BY CARL ETON. [PART IV. 

nition as a standard of reference is almost the only desidera 
turn now wanted to make entire and perfect that noble na- 
tional game of whist. 

Cards that have been but just opened and are quite new 
may be shuffled upon the table ; new cards are found to run 
so much in suits, that the necessity for this plan of separating 
them is generally admitted 

When a card becomes exposed, or is seen in cutting, the 
pack is re-shuffled and cut again. 

Should one player have but twelve cards, and the others 
their right number, the deal is good, and the holder of the 
twelve, in the event of the pack being perfect, is subject to 
the penalty of a revoke, if he have made one. If either of 
the three others holds fourteen cards, the deal is lost. 

If the dealer should drop the trump card with the face 
downwards, before it has been seen, he loses deal. 

Before a trick is taken up, or put together for that purpose, 
every player may demand to know who played each card of 
which it is composed, but not after they are turned. 

The adversaries may call a new deal at their pleasure, when 
one of their opponents has not played to the trick, and retains 
one card more than the rest in his hand. 

After the four cards have been played no error of playing 
out of turn can be rectified. 

A card may be called should the holder name or hint that 
it is in his hand. 

If a player assert that he can win the game, or win so many 
tricks, or give his partner to understand that be holds either 
good or bad cards, he may be compelled to lay his hand upon 
the table to be " called." 

In the event of a revoke the opposite party has the option 
of taking three tricks from their adversaries, adding three 
points to their own score, or deducting three points from that 
of their opponents. And in whatever way the penalty be 
enforced, the side making the revoke must remain at four, 
though, in spite of the forfeit, they had points enough left to 
make the game. The revoke may thus be turned to the best* 
account Suppose that you have not scored, and that the 
revoking parties are at four, add three to your own score, and 
you are three to their four, (the point at which honours do 
Dot count,) while you save two points certainly. 
182 



PART IV.] LAWS OF SHORT WHIST. 

A player making any intimation of approval or disapproval 
to his partner during the progress of the game, or who shall 
put a question not authorized by the recognized laws of whist, 
shall forfeit a point to be deducted from his own score, or 
added to that of his adversaries, at the option of the latter.* 

At several of the metropolitan clubs, when honours are 
scored by those who do not hold them, they are mulcted for 
doing so of as many points as they marked in error.* 

You cannot insist upon seeing the last trick, upon the prin- 
ciple recognized at long whist.* 

I pass by the vexed question as to the influence of skill 
upon the two games. The principle upon which it should be 
worked, I take it, is that which is known upon the turf as 
" strong running. " Five tricks and an honour save the 
game ; there are but five points to be got, instead of ten, 
carpe diem. 

With a bad hand never risk losing a fifth trick, but play a 
winning card, if you hold one. 

You have four tricks, your adversaries five, the lead is 
yours ; you hold king, three of a suit, and a small card of a 
suit in which you know the other side is strong. Lead the 
latter, your best chance to make your king is that your adver- 
saries lead to it. 

Rather than lead from a bad suit play a card that is worth- 
less, the other side may then lead from the weak suit, and 
your partner, being last to play, may make a trick in some 
way or other. 

Bear in mind the proverb of le premier pas qui coute. If 
your own hand is so bad that you cannot count on making a 
trick, you must calculate the probabilities that may affect that 
of your partner. Do not exhaust his resources by leading 
from a suit of low cards. If you have a king, with one or 
two others, play the highest. Should you have a high card, 
and a few poor trumps, do not play it out for the sake of a 
ruff. It will, most probably, lead a good card of your part- 
ner's into trouble. Moreover he will probably attribute your 
game to strength in the suit you lead, and return it, in lieu 
of leading trumps. 

Still the likelihood is, no doubt, that your partner may be 

* These three are French rules, and though very good, are not recog- 
nized in this country, excepting by a few disciples of Deschapelles. 

183 



SHORT WHJST BY CARLETON. [PART IV 

strong in the suit in which you are weak, and he may have a 
good finesse ; also bear in mind the scale of odds, given in the 
observations on the long game, as to the probabilities of his 
holding any particular card. 

And, above all, never lose sight of the fact that you are 
not engaged in a game of mere chance. Remember that there 
is a power of intrinsic command, equivalent, if not superior 
to, mere strength. I mean the tenace, that arrangement which 
places the first and third best cards of any suit in the hand 
of the player, whose turn to play follows that of his adversary, 
who holds the intermediate one, and that the finesse is the art 
of attaining that position. I cannot do better than quote Mr. 
Deschapelles' treatise on this the most important of all the 
scientific agents at whist. 

PASSING THE TRICK, OR FINESSING. 

" If, when a suit is played, each party were to hasten to force 
it with their best card, the most skilful player would be he 
who is best furnished with that suit; the strongest card 
would, in all cases, determine the fortune of the players ; all 
science and skill would entirely disappear from the game, and 
the empire of brute force, operating in all cases with the same 
power, would be firmly established. Ennui would soon give 
rise to new reforms, the useless trouble of dealing the cards 
would be discontinued, and thus, that beautiful problem, 
whist, would be degraded into the common and ignoble game 
of Rouge ou Nbir. 

" All this is, however, prevented by the finesse. 

u The principle of this practice, which forms an essential 
part in all the various combinations we are here investigating, 
and which is based upon acute discernment and a well-cal- 
culated doctrine of chance, is diametrically opposed to mere 
chance. It deprives the latter, one by one, of all those solid, 
and apparently, enormous advantages, it possesses, and even- 
tually completes the triumph of mind over matter. 

" It appears here indispensably necessary to define the vari- 
ous and different acceptations in which the word finesse may 
be taken ; qualifying each of them by an epithet which will 
facilitate our progress, and render our meaning more intelli- 
gible to the reader. 

" We shall commence by designating the principal circum- 
184 



PART IV.] THE FINESSE ACCORDING TO DESCHAPELLE8. 

stances of the finesse, annexing definitions and examples 
illustrative of their nature, and characteristic of their peculi- 
arities. 

1. The finesse proper. 

2. The returned finesse. 

3. The finesse by trial. 

4. The forced finesse. 

5. The finesse by speculation. 
7. The finesse on the partner. 

a The Finesse Proper. — When, upon the invite of your part- 
ner, you refuse to force with your strongest card, or one of 
equal strength, you are in the case of the finesse proper. 

" Holding the ace, queen, and ten, and taking with the 
queen, is a simple finesse ; that is, a finesse to the king. 

" If your left-hand adversary hold the king, the finesse will 
have been unsuccessful, but you cannot be called to account 
for bad playing, for the chances were three to one in your 
favour ; that is, that the king was held by your right-hand 
adversary, or, more probably, by your partner. Even in this 
latter case, the finesse is not without some consequence, 
because it affords you the opportunity, after you have made 
your ace, of returning your partner's lead, by a low card of 
that suit in which, by his invite, he may be presumed to hold 
6trong cards. 

" If, instead of taking the trick with the queen, you only 
forced with the ten, or even let pass a nine or eight played 
by the partner, the finesse would be double, treble, or quad- 
ruple, without losing its denomination. 

" When your partner leads in a certain suit, it maybe pre- 
sumed that he does so with some intention ; he is desirous of 
assisting you to make as many tricks as possible in that suit. 
However vague it may be, it is your business to interpret his 
meaning. Has he played in this manner to rid himself of 
the suit, or to favour another suit and get the last play ? Or 
is his motive to favour your play, as he has no opportunity 
of making tricks himself? If his intention be to get rid of 
the suit, return his lead, and do not forget to play out your 
highest cards ; if he wish to get the last play, return the suit, 
and preserve your low cards to continue the play ; if he wish 
to favour your play, the suit is then confided to your care, 

17* 185 



SHORT WHIST BY CARLETON. [PART If 

make the best use of it and exert all your skill to make it last 
as long as possible. The difference between these answers, 
and the evil resulting from mistaking either of his motives,, 
are evident. Nothing therefore should be neglected which 
may give you a chance of discovering his intention. To at- 
tain this end requires, however, considerable reflection, with- 
out which no one can expect to succeed. 

" Firstly, We must consider the skill and mode of playing 
of our partner, together with the interest and attention he 
bestows on the game ; we must next endeavour to remember 
the cards already played, and the particular circumstances of 
the round. We must always be prepared to take advantage 
of every information we may acquire ; and, in all instances, 
to make allowances for those circumstances which may modify 
or change our position. 

" The motives for a peculiar system of play rest entirely 
with the player; it is here that proficients display their great 
skill. Much might be said on this question, so much indeed, 
that we think it more advisable to refrain from entering on 
the subject, as we have already demonstrated the danger of 
over-charging the memory with the peculiarities of each case, 
and as the position of the player is continually changing in 
form and circumstances. 

" It will be observed, once for all, that the cases which we 
quote as examples are purely hypothetical ; and that our pre- 
cepts are equally applicable to every stage of the game. 

" When strong cards are played, the finesse is a general 
practice, which no one omits to employ. There are, however, 
many cases in which it should not be used. We should keep 
our attention continually on the stretch to guide us, after well 
weighing its advantages, in the pursuit of that plan which 
others practice as a matter of course. One moment of inat- 
tention or distraction is sufficient to draw us into some 
absurd fault, which will sacrifice our reputation for ever. 
We have seen very skilful players pass a trick which would 
tiave won them the game ; and we have known others commit 
the same error upon the last trick but one, although they still 
held a trump. 

" The finesse is also a dangerous experiment with a bad 
hand, because as only weak cards are then held, every new 
lead must become a fresh source of injury to your game ; it 
X86 



PART IV ] THE FINESSE ACCORDING TO DESCHAPELLES. 

is also very unsafe to try it upon a trick which may save the 
game. 

" The Returned Finesse. — This finesse takes place on the 
lead of the left-hand adversary ; but it is not definitive, since 
your partner has not yet played, and he may be in a condi- 
tion to take the trick. With a good hand, this finesse may 
continue some time ; and we may thus procure an opportu- 
nity for making an advantageous counter-invite ; the same 
occurs when it is to our interest to give our partner the lead, 
but we should assist him when he holds weak cards, and sup- 
port him in a suit of which he may probably hold none ; 
holding ace and queen, put down the queen ; the danger is 
then in the false invite. 

" A false invite is easily discovered, by comparing the card 
played with those already out ; it is also known by an ac- 
quaintance with the player's game, by his necessity of invit- 
ing with a low card for want of a stronger, or by that descrip- 
tion of play which is interested in deceiving all parties. The 
point of time in which this occurs, and its coincident circum- 
stances, are our chief assistance in the solution of the problem. 
For this, we refer our readers to our remarks on the subject 
of the true invite. Whether it be that the elements of analy- 
sis are not sufficiently numerous, or that they are improperly 
applied, or whether our attention is distracted by some new 
stratagem of the enemy, it must be confessed that the mean- 
ing intended to be conveyed by invites is frequently mistaken. 
To this we can only remark with the physician in Moliere, 
' Sometimes, however, all this will not prevent the patient's 
dying ; but, at any rate, you will be consoled by reflecting 
that you have done something for him/ 

" Frequently, when your partner is short of a suit, your 
right-hand adversary, presuming upon the weakness of his 
hand, will not fail to play a low card, and his partner, under- 
standing his intention, will take it with his strongest, contrary 
to the usual practice ; this manoeuvre will be repeated a 
second time, and if you allow the trick to be taken, in hopes of 
preserving your resources, you will lose a point ; sometimes, 
also it may be to your interest to take the lead, in order to 
play some strong card, or to get the lead again into your 
partner's hand. In all these cases, it is advisable not to 
finesse, since, in general, all the strongest cards should be 

187 



SHORT WHIST BY CARLETON. [PA<T IV 

played out, by which there may be any hope of making a 
trick. 

" The same may be remarked of every description of finesse, 
when there is question of a trick of importance, which may 
cause the winning, or prevent the losing of the game. 

" Of the Finesse by Trial. — If, holding king, knave, and 
ten, you put down the latter, on the invite either of your 
right-hand adversary or partner, and if it be taken by the ace 
on your left, ycu are justified in concluding that the queen 
is not there ; whence it follows, that on the return of the suit, 
you may securely put down your knave, as the finesse has 
been fairly tried. 

" This deduction may be considered certain upon the invite 
of the partner, for the last player would never have taken with 
the ace, and made the king the best card, if he* could have 
taken the trick with the queen, unless by a mistake, which you 
cannot, of course, be expected to take into account. If the 
invite had originated from your right-hand antagonist, your 
security would not be so good, because it might happen that 
your left-hand player would not choose to risk a trick in a 
very long suit, or because it might be to his interest to take 
the trick at all events ; from which it follows, that this finesse 
can never be tried beyond a certain point, and we should 
place no dependence upon it, except when admitted by the 
game, or when the trick is of minor importance. 

" With regard to the important trick above mentioned, we 
must here remark, that when it may win the game, it should 
never be allowed to pass. 

" We have seen some persons play with this trick, as a cat 
plays with a mouse ; even letting it escape them, blindly con- 
fident that another opportunity would present itself, and that 
they could take the trick whenever they pleased. Their folly, 
however, frequently suffered a just punishment ; for the op- 
portunity never occurred again, and they lost not only the 
game, but perhaps, the rubber, and did not dare to reply to 
the irritated looks of a partner, who was prevented only by 
politeness, from bestowing a severe rebuke. Besides so dis- 
agreeable a dilemma, there is another circumstance of some 
weight, which is, that when the game is on the point of being 
lost, the moment of suspense should not be prolonged. 

w With respect to the trick which prevents the loss of the 
188 



PART IV.] THE FINESSE ACCORDING TO DESCHAPELLES. 

game, we are not of opinion that it should always be taken 
on the first opportunity. 

" But let us be understood : this trick is not of such import 
ance, either when you hold in your own hand, or when you know 
that your partner possesses the means of winning it, nor when, 
instead of a certainty, you have three or four probable chances 
of saving the game ; these latter chances are more especially 
to be weighed in the scale against the hopes you may enter- 
tain of making the trick by playing with less timidity. In this 
case we should be well acquainted with the number of trumps 
not yet played, the thirteenth card of each of the four suits, 
the best cards remaining in the four hands, and where they 
lie, &c, &c. It is the knowledge of these facts which makes 
this trick of comparative insignificance to the proficient. 

" We have already given it as our opinion, that the only 
case in which this trick should not be exposed to risk, is be- 
tween the points of three and four. 

" It is not necessary to lay down any further directions on 
the use of the finesse by trial. We have here mentioned it 
merely in order to explain its meaning, and place it under its 
proper class."* 

I now return to the practical details of a game supposed to 
be in progress, and that you are leader, with a sequence of 
four from the knave downwards, and the two clubs, five small 
trumps, one small diamond, and two small spades. I borrow 

the proposition from Major A . According to the scale 

of odds already referred to, it is 5 to 2 that your partner has an 
honour. Play your nine of clubs, and you have the best chance 
of clearing your suit. Should your partner hold no honour 
(that is, no court card, according to the absolute phraseology,) 
your nine will draw one, and there will then be the ace and 
king against you. This will make your partner last in play in 
your two next suits, and should he ruff the clubs, and you get 
rid of your small diamonds, there is a " saw" established be- 
tween you. Should your adversaries return a club, from any 
indisposition to touch a new suit, your command of trumps 
will enable you to bring in your suit. The same result would 
come of your leading the lowest from king, knave, ten. 

Holding a sequence, you lead off the highest, should your 
partner hold a higher card of the suit he finesses it. Should 
• Deschapelles. 

189 



SHORT WHIST BY CARLETON. [PART IV 

the lead come from your partner, you put on the lowest of 
your sequence, and return him the highest. If you lead from 
king, queen, knave, play the lowest, and your partner will 
take it with the ace, if he has it. 

Lead the best, having king, queen, ten, and if it succeed 
change your suit. Your ten may then serve you, when the 
deal comes to wind up. 

Should you hold four trumps, not honours, lead the lowest 
of them ; with king, queen, and three other trumps, lead the 
highest; with king and three others, lead the small one, un- 
less you have all the trumps that are left ; in that case, lead 
the lowest. 

Should you be compelled to lead from king, knave, and a 
small card, begin with the lowest. 

Should you hold queen, or queen and knave and three 
small cards, lead the worst. 

Still these rules must give place to circumstances ; to the 
trump turned, for instance. Should you have ace, or king, 
ten, nine, or some others of a suit, lead your ten through an 
honour; if your partner holds the queen or knave, he may 
finesse; should it answer his game, for instance. In the 
event of his playing either of those cards, when the suit 
comes to you again, you have your nine to do the same with. 

With ace, king, knave, and two small trumps, play the 
king, and wait for the finesse ; with these honours and three 
small ones, begin with the two highest cards. Do not wait 
for the finesse in any other suit, without the command in 
trumps. 

If you hold ace, king, and three others, lead the highest ; 
if the suit be trumps and you hold four, lead the worst. Do 
the same under the same circumstances with every suit, when 
you have the trumps that are left in. 

With ace, queen, knave, and one or two more, always lead 
the best ; with ace, queen, ten and two small ones, lead the 
lowest, in trumps ; but the best in every other suit. It is not 
a rule without an exception that you should wait till your 
tenace is played to. Rather than begin a weak suit, lead 
from ace, queen, and another or two others of the suit. 

Lead the lowest from ace, knave, and three small trumps ; 
in other suits, begin with the best, unless the probability is 
that you can bring in the suit by your strength in trumps. 
190 



PART IV.] MAJOE A.' 8 RULES. 

With ace and four small ones, lead the ace ; tne revere* 
with trumps, 

With ace and but one other, lead the small one, if you 
doubt your partner being strong in the suit. 

With a weak hand in trumps, get as many tricks as you 
can early in the game. 

These sketches of leads are not given so much as guides 
for playing the game, as to induce the reader to study and 
apply the system in which they originate. The leader has 
certain advantages ; but in most cases the command is with 
his right-hand adversary — the dealer. The leader will, how- 
ever, remember that he has no need of all the cards he holds 
to obtain the purpose he has in view. He has but five points 
to get, and there are eleven points out of which they may be 
made. This furnishes him with a freedom of action that 
greatly enhances the interest of the game. Let him always 
bear in mind what he has to do — first to save, and then to 
win the game ; and let him set about it in such wise as shall 
soonest and surest bring that result to pass. 

With a good suit, and a strong hand of trumps, let him not 
ruff upon compulsion. His trumps will presently enable him 
to establish his suit. 

Having won a trick, with the game open, lead a small card, 
and this gives your partner a chance of making his next best, 
should he hold it, for you may calculate on your best making 
it in the third round : the ace of trumps should be thus dealt 
with in almost every instance. 

"Strength in trumps," says Major A , "can alone 

justify deep finessing in other suits.* But, as at short whist, 
scarcely a hand is played in which the game may not be 
either saved or won, there is, contrary to the received opinion, 
more scope for finessing judiciously than with the old game." 
Nothing can be more true, than that it is not a game for faint 
hearts ; the motto of short whist should be Audaces Fortuna 
juvat. 

RULES FOR LEARNERS. 

Rules are mere axioms, not laws. Those who adopt the 
study of whist, should set out with the understanding that 

* Another, and even greater authority than Major A , seems to be 

at issue with him on this point, and says : — " If weak in trumps finesse 
deep in your partner's weak suit, and protect his hand." 

191 



SHORT WHIST Bt CARXETON. [PART lV. 

they may read to become good but not fine players They 
may be taught to play correctly; but not with the genius 
that exults in the possession of a bad hand. Still it is essen- 
tial that they should learn the rudiments, whatever brilliancy 
of talent they may bring to the service of their game. People 
don't dance the polka without being instructed in the first 
steps, and does not the head stand in need of a tutor as well 
is the heels ? 

I suppose you with the thirteen cards already in your grasp. 
(t is your lead ; do not send out a single card on an errand, 
without an object. It is better to despatch it on mischief 
than for no purpose at all. Mark well the cards you hold, 
the progress of the game, the probabilities on your own part 
And on that of your partner, and observe cautiously the direc- 
tion the deal assumes. Play with reference inclining more to 
your partner than yourself: he cannot see the premises of 
your policy; let him have every indication you can give, by 
your playing as open a game as may be consistent with safety. 
Should the score be critical, and against you, go point blank 
for every trick that offers by possibility to be within your 
reach ; desperate cases require desperate remedies. In ordi- 
nary cases adopt a more cautious course. To show you the 
necessity for having a reason for every move at whist, I quote 

the following proposition from the work of Major A , 

already referred to. " Your partner leads a four; your right- 
hand adversary plays a five ; if you put down a tray, it ought 
to be certain that you have no more of the suit; but if the 
deuce make its appearance afterwards, it will destroy all con- 
fidence in your play, and you will be justly set down for a 
spoon. " A stronger case than this is the following. The 
most important working machinery in whist is the tenace. 
You know full well its importance when you see the ace and 
queen in your hand, but does it strike you that at certain por- 
tions of a game, the four and two may do you as much good 
service ? Five and seven are as effective against four and six 
as ace, queen, against king, knave. During the time cards 
are being played the utmost application of thought and the 
keenest address of judgment will find more to -do than they 
are in general prepared for. 

I do not think it necessary to recapitulate here the maxima 
of practical detail already given in the general system and 
192 



PART IV.] PECULIARITIES: FOREIGN. 

science of whist. The peculiarities of the short game, how- 
ever, call for special appliances, and these are offered, not 
indeed in the character of specifics, but rather as cordials to 
give the patient nerve and vigour ; as stimulants to excite his 
emulation, and rouse his energy. Let circumstances guide 
you more absolutely than the recognized order of routine, 
applicable to the cards you hold. Thus should an honour 
turn up on your left, or lie on your right, do not permit those 
accidents to operate for or against a lead of trumps, if there 
be a good suit to be brought in by the latter course. Trumps 
should be your rifle company ; use them literally in your 
manoeuvres ; have copious reference to them in finessing, to 
enable you to maintain a long suit. Should you be weak in 
trumps, ruff a double card at all times ; with a command in 
them be very chary of that policy. Let your great principle 
always be to keep the control of your adversaries' suit, and 
leave that of your partner free. If you see the probable good 
effect of forcing, decide which of your adversaries you will 
assail, but do not attempt them both at once. Let it be the 
stronger if possible ; when you force both hands opposed to 
you, one throws away his useless cards ; while the chance is, 
the other makes trumps that, under other circumstances, 

would have been sacrificed. Major A puts the policy 

of forcing very forcibly. " A has six minor trumps and a 
septieme major iu another suit, with the lead. B, his adver- 
sary, has a sfxieme major in trumps, a quart major, and a 
tierce major, of the other suits. If A, relying upon his six 
trumps, lead a trump (as many say, with six trumps, always 
lead one), he loses every trick ; if, on the contrary, he forces 
B once, he inevitably gains the odd trick. The same prin- 
ciple operates throughout every combination of the fifty-two 
cards; a conviction of it is one of the first necessary steps 
towards an insight into the game, and although so great an 
effect may be seldom produced, and our example may be 
regarded as a very extreme case, there is scarcely a rubber 
wherein the soundness of the principle of forcing is not 
experimentally proved." .... 

With the command of trumps, and a long suit to bring in, 
begin with trumps; if weak in them, show your suit, that, 
your partner may do it for you, if he can. With four trumps, 
headed by the ace, should your adversaries lead them, do not 

18 193 



SHORT WHIST BY CARLETON. [PART IV. 

win the first or second trick, unless you have seen reason to 
suspect the adversary's weakness in the suit. Never ruff your 
right-hand adversary's leads, should you be strong in trumps, 
and have a suit you desire to maintain. I take my example 

for this axiom from Major A % " The cards being 

nearly equal, the object of the good whist player is to esta- 
blish a long suit ; to keep the long trump to bring it in, and to 
frustrate the same plan of his adversaries. With an honour, 
or even the ten, and three other trumps, you may by good 
management succeed. Do not over-trump your right-hand 
adversary early, but throw away a losing card ; one trump thus 
gone strengthens your hand, and your partner, as last player, 
has that advantage in whatever suit is led. For instance, had 
you over-trumped, you would have given up the whole chance 
of the game to secure one trick. But this, like all rules, is 
not without exception ; namely, if your left-hand adversary 
has shown a great superiority in trumps, then make whatever 
tricks you can. If your partner, a good player, means ob- 
viously to force you, of which you may judge by his playing 
a winning or losing card of the suit to be trumped ; if the 
former, he may not intend to force you ; if the latter, you 
may give him credit for strength in trumps to protect your 
long suit. In short, it is bad to play for a great game with a 
weak hand, or a weak game with a strong hand, when the 
state of the scores require the reverse." According to the 
old rule, you should never force your partner without having 
a command in trumps yourself; this maxim may, however, 
be occasionally departed from with advantage ; as, for exam- 
ple, should your partner indicate by his lead that he wishes 
to be forced, as from a single card, when an overwhelming 
strength of trumps is on the opposite side, when a " saw" 
threatens to be established, when your partner refuses to lead 
trumps after being forced, or when you are playing only for 
the trick. 

With respect to the policy of leading trumps, a few general 
hints may be given. By all means lead them when you have 
four or five, with a long suit besides, and the impression that 
your partner may have another. If the adversaries evince 
weakness in thiir general cards, but with good trumps ; if 
they have scored three, and you hold no honour, and suits 
that make the establishment of a ruff in your behalf impro- 
194 



PART IV.] TRUMPS. 

bable, judge your adversaries' cards by the policy you would 
adopt yourself, if holding such cards as you may presume 
constitute their hands. Thus they decline a ruff, or throw 
away a good card ; they hold long suits in trumps, as they 
have but two suits, trumps being one of them. In the 
former case, force them if you can, but do not lead them a 
trump. If the adversary on your right lead the suit of which 
you hold ace, king, and four cards, win with your king, and 
do not return the suit should you have commanding trumps. 
In leading from a sequence of three trumps, when you cannot 
help yourself, play the best ; but avoid such a lead when you 
can. When your partner leads off trumps so as to assure 
you his suit in them is strong, fail not to return the lead, as 
soon as the opportunity offers. But should you have any 
doubt as to his motive, consult your own hand for an aid in 
solving it. Let the possession of the long, or odd trump, 
have much weight with the method of your lead in that suit. 
With a strong suit to establish, and a tierce major in trumps, 
lead them twice before you begin your long suit. If you 
hold only four small ones, keep them back till your suit is 
established. Should your partner's trumps be exhausted, 
and your adversary's the reverse, play a trump if you have 
it, as you will be repaid cent, per cent. If possible, reserve 
the last trump for a great coup ; it may stop your opponent's 
long suit, and give you the lead, which he may not again 
recover. Thus, with a command in trumps and the best card 
of your adversary's suit, lead small trumps to force him, 
keeping your best of his suit in petto. Your right-hand 
adversary having returned his partner's lead of trumps, if 
you have the best and a small one remaining, play the latter, 
looking to the probability of a finesse on your left, and your 
partner's position as last player. Should your partner lead 
from a tenace of ace and queen of trumps, and you hold 
king and some small cards, win his queen and keep up his 
lead by returning it. Let your partner understand that you 
are strong in trumps, when such is the case ; this will make 
him preserve his best suit in all its force, instead of watch- 
ing for his adversaries long suit. If your partner lead the 
ten of trumps, and you hold ace, knave, and another, pass it, 
unless the state of the score should make the finesse dan- 

195 



SHORT WHIST BY CARLETON. [PART IV. 

gerous. However, if you have a direct object in getting out 
two leads of trumps, play your ace. Ace, nine is a safer lead 
than ace, ten. When a best card of a suit is thrown away 
to a partner's winning card, it is clear the command is in 
your hand ; the second best so disposed of shows that 
it is the only one you have got. When your partner 
leads the second best of a suit, if you have a command 
in trumps pass it, unless you can, by winning, make a 
saw. 

When you and your partner have all the trumps between 
you, play a small one, if you wish to throw the lead into hia 
hand. When you turn up the king, the sooner you make him 
the better. It is sometimes politic to win your adversaries' 
leads whenever you can with the highest of a sequence, if 
you can do so without deceiving your partner ; they wonder 
what has become of the lower honours. Holding ace, ten, 
and a small one, your partner leading the nine of the suit, 
pass it ; for if he holds an honour, you make two tricks, 
counting your ace for a certain trick. With king, queen, or 
queen and knave, and another, play one of the high cards in 
all cases when you are second hand. With an average re- 
mainder of trumps and good cards, having one certain loser, 
throw it away at your first opportunity, it may enable your 
partner to make his second best of the suit. It is peremptory 
notice to you to play trumps, whatever may be the state of 
your hand in reference to that suit, when your partner does 
not trump a winning card. Should the queen come from 
your right, in a lead, with ace or king, ten or another, pass it, 
this gives you a tenace, as if your partner have either ace or 
king, you make three tricks in the suit. Players, however, 
of the old school think it best to cover the queen. It is bad 
policy to lead up to queen or knave ; the contrary with respect 
to the ace or king ; the same holds with reference to leading 
through those several cards. If your partner leads trumps 
and you have four high trumps, endeavour to make sure of 
three rounds in that suit ; should his lead, however, be a nine, 
pass it, you will then have the lead after the third round. 
When the lead comes from your right-hand adversary, put on 
your queen, should you hold ace, queen, and ten. Should 
your left-hand adversary pass a winning card, throwing away a 
196 



PABT IV.] MANAGEMENT Of SUITS. 

losing one, lead him the suit he has discarded, should you 
have the opportunity. The commanding card will serve you 
as well as trumps when they are exhausted. When you have 
strength in trumps, throw away from your adversaries long 
suits; if weak, preserve such cards as will check them. Upon 
all occasions when you discover your partner's hand to be 
weak, force it. So, when a strong suit has been established 
by the opposite side and you have the opportunity to stop it, 
do so with the best trump should you hold it, and it happens 
to be the only one you have. It is better to play to your 
partner's strong suit, if he has one, than immediately to lead 
a suit you know he will ruff. It is better also, when you 
have a small trump, with ace, queen, or any other tenace, to 
play the losing one, in order that your tenace may be led up 
to. Mark well whether your partner's lead be of his free 
will or on compulsion. If the latter, treat it as though it 
were an adversary's or your own : avoid returning it. 

It is a point of high science to keep back a high card, and 
play a low one in return to a left-hand adversary's lead. 

" Suppose," says Major A , " the fourth player to have 

ace, king, and a small one of his left-hand adversary's lead. 
If he wins with the ace and returns a small one, his partner 
will make the third best, unless the second and third are both 
against him. It is indeed from this, if you lead from the 
king and your right-hand adversary, after winning with the 
ten or knave, return your lead, that the best chance to make 
your king, is to put it on." With king, knave, and others 
against ace, queen, and one other, the only remaining card of 
the suit, lead the king; for if the queen is unguarded, you 
bring out the ace, and every other trick is your own. Id 
like manner, your left-hand adversary having the second best 
of a suit guarded, if you remain with ace, queen, and four 
others, by playing the lowest, it is most probably passed, and 
you win all the rest. 

I have already shown the effect of the tenace and the im- 
portance of keeping up its combinations in cards of every 
value. I take the liberty of appropriating a sample or two 
of its operation from the authority that I have made frequent 
reference to. " A, the leader, has four cards left, viz., the 
second and fourth trump, and the ace and five of clubs. B 
the left-hand adversary, has the first and third trump, and the 

18* 197 






SHORT WHIST BY CARLETON. [PART IV. 

king and six of clubs. The ac e of clubs, being led by A, the 
king should be put down to it by B. A will then probably 
lead trumps ; if so B inevitably makes three tricks : by keep- 
ing the king of clubs he cannot possibly make more than two. 
A has king, queen, ten of a suit, B ace, knave, and another. 
A, leading the king, B wins it with the ace, he makes but 
one trick ; by passing the king and thus preserving the tenace, 
he makes two. Tenace is more easily kept against the right- 
hand than against the left-hand adversary : the latter, in fact, 
requires good skill." It is unnecessary to multiply these in- 
stances, or nothing would be more easy. The principle per- 
vades the cards, and memory and observation will furnish the 
material to any amount. The influence that experience and 
art exercise upon this game may be calculated by such data. 

One more case of system and science and I leave this cause 
in the reader's hands, with little doubt as to the result. The 
score is four. A, with six tricks turned, remains with ten 
and seven of trumps, and two hearts, he leads one of the lat- 
ter. B, the left-hand adversary, has knave and eight of 
trumps, and two clubs. C, A's partner, has two small trumps, 
and two hearts. D, the last player, has the king, and a small 
trump, a club, and a diamond. D, seeing it is necessary to 
win every trick, and that there is no hope of doing so unless 
his partner has either the two best trumps, or a successful 
finesse in them, trumps A's lead of hearts with his king, re- 
turns the small one, and thus wins a most critical game (pre- 
suming that B finesses the eight of trumps.) 

And thus we have arrived at the refinements of the game, 
attainments to be taught neither by example nor precept, and 
but by practical experience alone. Upon some of its leading 
points even the best players are still divided in opinion ; they 
disagree as to the principle of leading single cards, for in- 
stance. These and many such moot points and mysteries are 
pir force left to the student's research and the practical 
player's solution. But Whist has higher properties than may 
be learnt by rote. It has subtle contrivances and cunning 
secrets that whose would unfold and appropriate must " min- 
ister to himself." It is well worth the essay — Le jeu vaut 
les chandettes. 

Flobeat Sctentia! 
198 



PIQUET. 

Hoyle, in his account of this game, as well a3 of several 
others in his very popular treatise, begins as if he were ad- 
dressing those who had already made considerable progress 
in the matters under discussion. As we have no right to as- 
sume any such anterior knowledge, but rather the contrary, 
seeing that our purpose is equally to teach the unpractised as 
to minster to more mature study, we shall commence with 
the first elements of the game. 

The game of Piquet, then, is played by two persons, with 
thirty-two cards, namely ace, king, queen, knave, ten, nine, 
eight, and seven of each suit, and these cards rank accord- 
ing to the succession in which they are here placed, the 
ace being higher than the king, the king than the queen, 
the queen than the knave, and so on. In reckoning what is 
called the point, the ace counts eleven, the king, queen, knave, 
ten each, and the other cards according to the number of 
their respective pips, ten, nine, eight, or seven. Having 
agreed on the amount of the stakes, the next step is to cut 
for the deal. He that cuts the lowest piquet card deals ; hav- 
ing first shuffled the pack he presents it to his adversary, who 
if he pleases may shuffle also. Should he do so, the dealer 
may shuffle them again ; and having done so, he places them 
before the other who cuts them. If in this operation a card 
shall drop, the dealer has the right to shuffle over again. It 
is always advisable for the elder hand to shuffle, especially 
when the dealer's pack is running in his (the dealer's) favour, 
for though there must of course be a great deal of luck in a 
run of good cards, yet this luck is frequently owing to the 
neglect of effectual shuffling, because in the course of play 
the cards naturally drop into such a position as to cause this 
run. For the same reason, if the run continues against him, 
he should change bis method of shuffling, alternating them 
by one at a time, or three. It is an established rule that, 
the cards in being shuffled, may not be laid on the table. 

It is a rule with all good players to have two packs, each 
deals with his own pack throughout the game or partie, unless 
either of them chooses to call for new cards at his own ex« 

199 



PIQUET. 

pense ; at the end of the partie the choice of cards is usually 
cut for, the highest being entitled to the choice. 

The number of points in each game is now one hundred, 
it used to be one hundred and one ; fifty saves the lurch. 

The cards are to be dealt two by two, and in no other num- 
bers. In this manner each player is to have twelve cards 
dealt him and there will then remain eight cards, which aro 
called " the stock," and are to be placed on the board, di- 
rectly between the two players. 

The penalties for misdealing will be found in the rules ap- 
pended to this treatise. 

When the cards- are dealt, each player should sort his own 
hand, placing together those of each suit. The first thing to 
be observed by each, is, whether he has a carte-blanche, that 
is, whether he has no picture cards in his hand ; these are, 
the king, queen, and knave. Should the eldest hand have a 
carte blanche, he is to tell the dealer to discount for a carte- 
blanche, and when that is done he shows it by counting his 
cards one by one on the table, with the faces uppermost. If 
the younger hand has a carte-blanche, he is to wait till the 
elder has made his discard, and then, before he takes in, show 
his cards as above. The great advantage of a carte-blanche 
is, that the player who has it counts ten, which takes prece- 
dence of every other score, and not only counts towards the 
pique or repique but prevents the adversary from having 
either one or the other ; and if the player who holds it is at 
the point of ninety or upwards, he wins the game. 

When the players have sorted their cards, the elder hand 
makes his discard, that is to say, he throws out more than 
five of such cards as he considers of least value, and exchanges 
them for a corresponding number of cards taken from the 
stock in their natural order. The general rules as to discard- 
ing by the elder hand are two : first, he must exchange one 
card at least, and secondly he must leave three cards in the 
stock for dealer. If he takes in a smaller number than five, 
he has a right to look at such of the five as he leaves. 

The dealer is not bound to discard at all, but if he does he 
must take in, first those that are left by the elder hand, and 
then his own three which are at the bottom of the stock ; and 
though these be his rightful number, he is at liberty to take 
in not only tl.ose three, but also all that his adversary has 
200 



METHOD OF PLAY 

left. Should he leave any cards, he has a right to look at 
them, but if he does so, the elder hand, after he has led a 
card, or declared the suit that he intends to lead, may look at 
them also, but if the dealer does not look at them neither may 
the elder hand do so. Here it may be observed, that it is 
often for the advantage of the dealer not to look at the cards 
he leaves ; as, for instance, if he has in his hand a king un- 
guarded, if the adversary has all the rest of the suit, there 
is no help for it ; but it may happen that there are one or two 
cards of that very suit left in the stock, if so, it is better 
they should be unseen, at the elder hand will be thereby led 
to conclude that the king is guarded. Should the dealer leave 
any cards and mix them up with his own discard, the elder 
hand has a right to see the whole, after having first named 
the suit he intends to lead. 

In either of the above cases, should the elder hand lead a 
different suit from that which he named, the dealer may re- 
quire him to lead any suit he pleases. 

A novice at the game will naturally think that he ought to 
throw out those cards which are of least numerical value ; but 
the case is constantly otherwise. He must, therefore, well 
consider the object he has in view and how to attain it. 
Now, for this purpose, he must be well acquainted with the 
value of the various combinations of cards, and of their re- 
lative importance in counting the score. 

The various denominations of the score (so to speak) are as 
follows ; and they are reckoned in the following order. After 
the carte-blanche already spoken of, there is 1, the Point; 
2, the Sequence ; 3, the Quartorze ; 4, the Cards ; 5, the 
Capot. 

1. The Point. — This counts first. Whoever has the great- 
est number of cards in a suit has the point; but if both 
players have an equal number of cards in the same or differ- 
ent suits, then whichever has the greatest number of pips, 
reckoning the ace as eleven, and the court cards as ten each, 
wins the point. It will be readily seen that, in this view of 
the matter, the five lowest cards must be superior to the four 
highest, the former amounting to forty-four, the latter to 
forty-one. Whoever has the point counts one for each card, 
unless the number ends in four, in which case the party hold- 
ing it counts one less than the number of cards. 

201 



PIQUET. 

2. The Sequence. — A sequence is the having several cards 
in the same suit following consecutively, as ace, king, queen, 
or knave, ten, nine, eight : of these, there are six different 
kinds ; 1, a Tierce, three in sequence ; 2, a Quart, four in 
sequence ; 3, a Quint, (commonly called " a Kent,") five in 
sequence; 4, a Seizieme, six in sequence; 5, a Septieme, 
seven in sequence ; 7, a Huiteme, eight in sequence, that is, 
a whole suit. Of these, the most numerous is the most valu- 
able, and where the numbers of cards are equal, that which 
is the highest is most valuable ; for instance, a tierce to an 
ace, which is called a " tierce major," is more valuable than 
any other tierce, though it is inferior to a quart to a ten, be- 
cause the latter contains four cards. A sequence counts next 
to the point ; the tierce being worth three, a quart four, a 
quint fifteen, a seizieme sixteen, and so on. Now, supposing 
the elder hand to have five cards (which are good) for his 
point, he counts five, and if these five form a sequence, he 
counts twenty, that is, five for the point and fifteen for the 
quint; but if he have a quart major (that is, a quart to an 
ace,) and a nine, and the dealer has a quint to a knave, the 
former counts five and the latter fifteen ; and note that the 
player, who holds the highest sequence, is entitled to count 
all lower sequences that he may happen to hold in the same 
or other suits. 

3. The Quatorze. — A player holds a quatorze when he has 
four cards of equal value in the four different suits ; that is to 
say, four aces, kings, queens, knaves, or tens, no lower cards 
count. Whichever player holds the highest quatorze counts 
fourteen, those which are highest taking precedence, and pre- 
venting any inferior quatorze from being of value. In like 
manner, if neither party holds a quatorze, then three of equal 
value, as three aces, &c, count three, and next in order to 
the sequence. But the lowest quatorze, that of tens, is supe- 
rior to the highest three, that of aces. And it is to be observed, 
that whoever has the highest quatorze is entitled to count 
any other inferior ones, even though his adversary should 
have an intermediate one. Thus the quatorze of aces annuls 
all the others ; and the player who has them counts a quatorze 
of tens, though his adversary should have quatorze of kings, 
queens, or knaves. If there is no quatorze, he may count three 
aces, kings, queens, knaves, or tens ; and it is to be observed, 
202 



METHOD OF PLAY. 

that three aces arc superior to three kings, and so of the rest \ 
and that by virtue of a good quatorz, you not only count 
inferior ones, but also three tens, or any other threes except 
those of nine, eight, or seven ; although your adversary should 
have three of a superior value. The least practice will 
make all this, which may seem a little difficult at first, quite 
familiar. 

Before proceeding to describe the two remaining modes of 
scoring, namely, the cards and the capot, it will be as well, 
as we are at present considering the method or object of dis- 
carding, to point out to the beginner what he has to aim at, 
and what to avoid. He is to know, then, that if the elder 
hand counts in his hand and plays thirty before the dealer 
counts one, he at once leaps from thirty to sixty, which is 
called a pique ; and if, without playing a card, he counts 
thirty in his hand, he jumps from thirty to ninety, which is 
called a repique. This will be best explained by example ; 
and, first, for the pique. Supposing the elder hand to have a 
quint to an ace, in other words a quint-major, which is good 
as a point, it is consequently good, also, as a sequence, and 
counts twenty ; suppose him, also, to have three aces, which 
must be good, because he has a quint-major, that is, one of 
each of the cards that can constitute a quatorze, that makes 
him twenty-three ; well then, in playing the cards his quint- 
major and the two additional aces must also count one each, 
as will presently be seen, making up a total of thirty, upon 
which the player, instead of saying in his play twenty-nine, 
thirty, says twenty-nine sixty. This is a pique. Again, as 
to a repique. Supposing the elder hand to have the same 
point, good, as above, and four aces besides instead of three, 
he counts in his hand, without playing a card, first, five for 
his point, fifteen for his quint-major, and fourteen for his four 
aces, that is to say, thirty-four in hand, which is ninety-fouv, 
in fact, the game in one hand. Again, supposing the dealer 
to have the same hand in the two several cases above men- 
tioned : in the former case he counts only twenty-three, that 
is, his point, quint and three aces, and then the elder hand 
plays a card and counts one, which prevents the dealer gain- 
ing a repique ; whence it will be observed that the dealer 
cannot win a pique, but may win a repique, because a pique 
is won by playing up to the number thirtv before the adver« 

203 



PIQUET 

sary has counted one, but the eldest hand when he plays his 
first card must count one : and iD the latter case the dealer 
would win a repique, because by means of his point, quint 
and four aces, he counts thirty before the elder hand counts 
one ; for all scores made in the hand without playing out 
count before cards played on the table. For instance, if the 
elder hand is ninety-nine towards the game, and the younger 
hand ninety-four, still though the elder hand must play one 
to begin with, yet the younger hand, if he has a good point 
of six cards, wins the game. 

4. The Cards. — We now recur to the fourth of our five 
methods of scoring, called " The cards." Two cards, one from 
each player, make a trick ; if each player has six tricks the 
cards are divided, but if either wins seven or more tricks he 
has " the cards," that is, he counts ten beyond the number he 
has already scored. It is scarcely necessary to observe that, 
as in other games, the higher card wins a lower, and makes a 
trick. 

5. The Capot. — Whichever player wins all the tricks wins 
what is called a capot, and, instead of ten, adds forty to his 
score. 

With reference to the playing of the cards, it must be 
noticed that the first player counts one for each card he plays, 
provided it be of the value of a ten at least, and that the 
second player, if he wins a trick also counts one, subject to 
the same limitation. Whoever wins the last trick of the 
twelve counts one extra, or, as it is called, " one for the last 
card;" a game very often depends on the winning of this 
trick, whence the young player will soon discover how impor- 
tant it is to win this last trick. 

It is impossible to give any general rules for discarding, 
which shall be applicable in all cases, inasmuch as the num- 
ber of points which you are to aim at securing is continually 
varying according to the varying position of the game. The 
ordinary and correct calculation is that the elder hand will 
make twenty-seven points and the younger thirteen. Keep- 
ing this in view, we will suppose that the game is at its com- 
mencement; then each player should endeavour to procure 
his proper number. To begin with the elder hand ; if his 
cards do not show a very strong probability of his gaining a 
pique or repique, he should discard so as, in the first place, 
204 



METHOD OF PLAY. 

to gain the point, and, secondly, the cards. He has seven- 
teen cards against fifteen, and may reasonably calculate on 
attaining both these ends ; but of the two the latter is the 
most important. To gain the point, the most obvious plan is 
to keep the suit of which he has the most, but in doing so he 
will often lose the cards ; he must, therefore, very frequently 
discard from his most numerous suit, in order to retain that 
which is strongest for play. And, in doing so, he should 
never forget that he has more chance of taking in to his 
weaker suit than to his stronger one. To give an instance, 
supposing him to have a tierce-major in one suit, and a quint 
to a knave in another. If he is to discard five cards he must 
clearly break up one suit or the other ; if he keeps the quint 
to the knave he will probably lose the cards, for he cannot 
reasonably calculate on taking in the ace and another honour 
in that suit, and unless he has two other aces he will almost 
to a certainty lose the cards. With still more force does this 
reasoning apply if he has a small quint in one suit and forty- 
one in another, because another tenth card in the latter suit 
will give him a quint-major. To multiply instances would 
be useless. We therefore pass on to the general method of 
playing the younger hand. 

We have already said that the dealer ought to make thir- 
teen points. But inasmuch as the elder hand has a great 
advantage over him, because, in addition to having more 
cards, he has also the chance of a pique, as well as a repique ; 
he therefore ought first of all and especially to consider what 
his opponent can possibly make, and to defend himself accord- 
ingly. Supposing him then to have, as above stated, a tierce- 
major in one suit and a quint to a knave in another, in any 
case, except that of having three aces, he should keep his 
small quint ; for, if it is good at starting, it prevents the pique, 
and, if not good, the only chances he has of preventing the 
pique are, that he shall take in the queen of that suit, which 
will give him a seizieme, or take in so as to break both his 
adversary's strong suits, which is a piece of luck he can 
scarcely calculate upon. These are strong, but by no means 
uncommon, cases, given by way of illustration. If any general 
rule can be given at the commencement of a game, it is this, 
that the elder hand (being safe) should play an offensive game, 
the younger hand a defensive game. 

19 205 



PIQUET. 

But when the game is further advanced, the principles on 
which the discard is to be made vary exceedingly, and are 
frequently quite the reverse of those above given. In the 
former case, as we have seen, the player commonly gives up 
the chance of a great game in order to make good his average 
score, unless, indeed, he can play for a great game without 
much risk ; but in the latter case, he abandons the certain 
winning of his average score with the very slender hope of 
making a pique or repique. For instance, supposing the 
deaier to be within ten of game, and the elder hand to have 
scored only twenty, it is clear that the latter must play for a 
repique. Let him have, then, a tierce-major in clubs, a quint 
to a knave in diamonds, king, knave of spades, and knave, nine 
of clubs, he should discard his tierce-major, his king of spades, 
and the nine of clubs, because, if he takes in the fourth knave 
and any card to his quint suit, he will probably win the re- 
pique. Whereas, with the same cards at the beginning of 
the game, he should discard his four lowest diamonds and the 
nine of clubs, which would give him a safe game. But it is 
unnecessary to multiply instances in this place. The General 
and Particular Rules that follow, accompanied with constant 
play and careful observation, will best teach the learner the 
most advantageous method of discarding. 

When both parties have discarded and taken in, the elder 
hand declares his point, and asks if it is good j if his adversary 
has not so many, he answers, " It is good ;" and if the same 
number, he says " Equal ;" in which case neither counts any- 
thing for the point ; but if the younger hand has more, he 
answers " Not good." Whichever gains the point is bound 
to show it on the table, and if he fails to do so he cannot 
count it ) in like manner, if the points are equal both must 
show them, and if either fails to do so, before he has played 
a card on the table, his adversary may count the point which 
he has shown. 

The point being decided, the elder hand next declares his 
best sequence, and if that is admitted to be good, he then 
reckons all minor sequences, showing them or declaring what 
suit they are in ; failing to do this, he is not entitled to count 
them. 

In like manner, the elder hand proceeds to call his quatorze, 
or three aces, &c. ; these he is not bound to show, though hia 
206 



GENERAL RULES. 

adversary may require him to do so, as it sometimes happens 
that the player has discarded one of a quatorze, and if he 
calls it improperly he reckons nothing that hand, or if he 
only calls three, his adversary is entitled to know which of 
the four has been discarded. 

When the elder hand has thus counted his game, he plays 
a card on the table, and thereupon, the dealer, before he plays 
in answer to that card, is bound to count his own game, that 
is to say, point, sequence, and quatorze, or whichever of them 
he may happen to have got. If the younger hand takes the 
trick he leads in his turn, and so the game proceeds till all 
the cards are played out. 

Having thus introduced the beginner to the general method 
of playing this game, we now direct his attention to Edmund 
Hoyle's 

GENERAL RULES FOR PLAYING PIQUET. 

I. You should play by the stages of your game ; that is 
when you are backward in the game, or behind your adver- 
sary, play a pushing game, otherwise you ought to make 
twenty-seven points elder-hand, and thirteen points younger- 
hand ; and you should in every hand compare your game with 
your adversary's, and discard accordingly. 

II. Discard in expectation of winning the cards, which is 
30 essential a part of the game, that it generally makes twenty- 
two or twenty-three points difference ; therefore do not discard 
for a low quatorze, such as four queens, four knaves, or four 
tens, because in any of these cases, the odds are three to one, 
elder-hand, and seventeen to three younger-hand, that you do 
not succeed ; for let us suppose you should go for a quatorze 
of queens, knaves, or tens, and throw out an ace or a king ; 
by so doing you run the risk of losing above twenty points, 
in expectation of winning fourteen. 

III. At the beginning of a party, play to make your game, 
which is twenty-seven points elder-hand, and thirteen points 
younger-hand ; therefore, suppose you are elder-hand, and 
that you have a tierce-major, and the seven of any suit : it ia 
five to two but that you take in one card out of any four certain 
cards; therefore, suppose you should have three queens, three 
knaves, or three tens, in this case discard one of them prefer- 
ably to the seven of your long suit, because it is three to one 

207 



PIQUET. 

that you do not take in any one certain card, elder-hand, to 
make you a quatorze, and consequently you would discard the 
seven of such a suit to a great disadvantage. 

IV. If your adversary is considerably before you in the 
game, the consideration of winning the cards must be put quite 
out of the question ; therefore suppose you should have a quart 
to a queen, or a quart to a knave ; in either of these cases it 
is only about five to four, being elder-hand, but that you take 
in a card to make you a quint, and about three to one but 
that you take in a queen, a knave, or a ten ) a nd should you 
have three of either dealt you, make a push for the game, 
particularly if it is so far advcnced as to give you but little 
chance for it in another deal ; and in this, and other cases, you 
may have recourse to the calculations ascertaining the odds. 

V. Gaining the point, generally, makes ten points differ- 
ence ; therefore, when you discard, endeavour to gain it but 
do not risk losing the cards by so doing. 

VI. Saving your lurch, or lurching your adversary, is so 
material, that you ought always to risk some points to accom- 
plish either of them. 

VII. If you have six tricks, with any winning card in your 
hand, never fail playing that card ; because, at least, you play 
eleven points to one against yourself by not playing it, unless 
in the course of the play you discover what cards your adver- 
sary has laid out, or unless by gaining the additional point 
you save the lurch or win the game. 

VIII. If you are greatly advanced in the game, as suppose 
you are eighty to fifty, in that case it is your interest to let 
your adversary gain two points for your one as often as you 
can, especially if in the next deal you are to be elder-hand ; 
but if, on the contrary you are to be younger-hand, and are 
eighty-six to fifty or sixty, never regard the losing two or 
three points for the gaining of one, because that point brings 
you within your show. 

IX. The younger-hand is to play upon the defensive ; 
therefore, in order to make his thirteen points, he is to carry 
tierces, quarts, and especially strive for the point : but sup- 
pose him to have two tierces to a king, queen, or knave, as it 
is twenty-nine to twenty-eight that he succeeds, he having in 
that case four certain cards to take in to make him a quart 
to either of them, and perhaps, thereby save a pique, &c., he 

208 



GENERAL RULES 

ought preferably to go for that which he has the most chanco 
to succeed in : but if he has three queens, knaves, or tens, and 
should attempt to carry any of them preferably to the others, 
the odds that he does not succeed being seventeen to three 
against him, he consequently discards to a great disadvantage. 

X. The elder or younger-hand, should sometimes sink one 
of his points, a tierce, or three kings, queens, knaves, or tens, 
in hopes of winning the cards ; but that is to be done with 
judgment, and without hesitating. 

XI. It is often good play for a younger-hand not to call 
three queens, knaves, &c, and to sink one card of his point, 
which his adversary may suppose to be a guard to a king or 
queen. 

XII. The younger-hand having the cards equally dealt 
him, is not to take in any cards, if thereby he runs the risk 
of losing them, unless he is very backward in the game, and 
has then a scheme for a great game. 

XIII. If the younger-hand has a probability of saving or 
winning the cards by a deep discard. As for example : sup- 
pose he should have the king, queen, and nine of a suit ; or 
the king, knave, and nine of a suit ; in this case he may dis- 
card either of those suits, with a moral certainty of not being 
attacked in them ; and the odds that he does not take in the 
ace of either of those suits being against him, it is not worth 
his while to discard otherwise in expectation of succeeding. 

XIV. The younger-hand having three aces dealt him, it is 
generally his best play to throw out the fourth suit. 

XV. The younger-hand is generally to carry guards to his 
queen-suits, in order to make points, and to save the cards. 

XVI. When the younger-hand observes that the elder-hand, 
by calling his point, has five cards which will make five tricks 
in play, and may have the ace and queen of another suit, he 
should throw away the guard to the king of the latter suit, 
especially if he has put out one from it, which will give him 
an even chance of saving the cards. 

XVII. If the elder-hand has a quart to a king dealt him, 
with three kings and three queens (including the king to his 
quart) and is obliged to discard, either one of his quart to the 
k Qg, or to discard a king or queen. 

Q. Which is best for him to discard ? 
A. The chance of taking in the ace or nine to his quart to 

19* 209 



PIQUET. 

a king, being one out of two certain cards, is exactly equai 
to the taking either a king or a queen, having three of each 
dealt him ; therefore he is to discard in such a manner as will 
give him the fairest probability of winning the cards. 

The foregoing case may be a general direction to discard in 
all cases of the like nature, either for the elder or younger-hand. 

XVIII. Suppose the elder-hand has taken in his five cards, 
and that he has the ace, king, and knave of a suit, having 
discarded two of that suit : and has also the ace, king, knave, 
and two small cards of another suit, but no winning cards in 
the other suits. 

Q. Which of these suits is he to play from, in order to 
have the fairest chance of winning, or saving the cards ? 

A. He is always to play from the suit of which he has 
the fewest in number; because, if he finds his adversary 
guarded there, the probability is in his favor that he is un- 
guarded in the other suit ; and should he play from the suit 
of which he has the most in number, and find his adversary's 
queen guarded, in that case he has no chance to save or win 
the cards. 

XIX. If the elder-hand is sure to make the cards equal, 
by playing them in any particular manner, and is advanced 
before his adversary in the game, he should not risk losing 
them ; but if his adversary is greatly before him, in that 
case it is his interest to risk losing the cards, in expectation 
of winning them. 

Particular Rules and Cases. 

I. Suppose you are elder-hand, and that you have dealt 
you a quart-major, with the seven and eight of clubs, the 
king and ten of diamonds, the king and nine of hearts, with 
the ten and nine of spades. 

Q. Whether are you to leave a card, by carrying the quart- 
major and two more of the same suit for the point, with two 
other kings ; or to throw out one card from your point ? 

A. If you throw out one card from your point, there is a 
possibility that you reckon only five points, and that your ad- 
versary may win the cards, by which event he gets eleven 
points, besides his three aces, &c, which gives you a bad 
chance for the game : but by leaving a card, and admitting 
210 



PARTICULAR RULES AND CASES. 

that one card of consequence lies in the five cards which you 
are entitled to take in, it follows, that you have four chances 
to one against leaving that card, and, consequently it is your 
interest to leave a card ; the odds are also greatly in your 
favor, that you take in some one of the following cards in 
your four cards, viz., there are two to your point, three aces, 
and one king. 

II. If you should happen to have the ace, king, and four 
small cards of any suit, with two other kings, and no great 
suits against you, the like method may be practised. 

III. Suppose you should have the king, queen, and four 
of the smallest clubs, the king and queen of diamonds, the 
ace and knave of hearts, and the king and nine of spades. 

Q. How are you to discard, with a probability of making 
the most points ? 

A. You are to throw out the queen and four small clubs, 
and to carry three entire suits, with the king of clubs ; for 
this reason, because the chance of your taking in the fourth 
king, is exactly the same as the chance of taking in the ace 
of clubs : in either of which cases it is three to one against 
you : but if you fail of taking in the fourth king, by dis- 
carding thus, you have a fair chance to win the cards, which 
will probably make twenty-two points difference. But should 
you discard with an expectation of taking in the ace of clubs, 
and should happen to fail, being obliged to throw out some 
of your great cards, you would have a very distant chance of 
either saving or winning the cards. 

IV. Suppose you should have the king and queen of clubs, 
a tierce-major in diamonds, queen and knave of hearts, and a 
quint to the knave in spades. 

Q. How are you to discard with a probability of making 
the most points ? 

A. You are to throw out the quint to a knave in spades, 
in order to make the most points ; because, let us admit that 
your quint is good for everything, after you have taken in, 
you in that case only score nineteen points, if you carry it, 
and you probably give up the cards, and also the chance of a 
quatorze of queens, beside a great number of points in play ; 
and consequently by carrying the quint, you would discard to 
a great disadvantage. 

V. Suppose you have the king, queen, seven, eight, and 

211 



PIQUET. 

nine of clubs; the -queen and knave of diamonds; the queen, 
ten, and nine of hearts, with the ace and nine of spades, 

Q. How are you to discard ? 

A. You are to discard the king, seven, eight, and nine of 
clubs; and the nine of spades ; by which means you do not 
only go for three suits, but you have the same chance for 
taking in the fourth queen, as you have to take in the ace of 
clubs : besides, the probability of winning the cards is greatly 
in your favor, by this method of discarding. 

VI. Suppose you have the queen, ten, nine, eight, and 
seven of clubs ; the knave and ten of diamonds ; the king, 
queen, and knave of hearts, with the ace and nine of spades, 

Q. How are you to discard ? 

A. You are to discard the five clubs ; because it is three to 
one that you do not take in the knave of clubs, and the carrying 
three entire suits gives you a fairer chance to score more points. 

VII. Suppose you have the ace, queen, and knave of clubs ; 
the king, queen, and knave of diamonds ; the queen and knave 
of hearts, with the ten, nine, eight, and seven of spades, 

Q. How are you to discard ? 

A. You are to discard the ace of clubs and the four 
spades, because it is only five to four but that you take in a 
queen or a knave ; it is also about three to two that you take 
in an ace : you have also three cards to your tierce to a king 
to take in, viz. the ace and ten, or the ten and nine, to make 
you a quint ; all which circumstances considered, you have a 
fair probability of making a great game; whereas, if you should 
leave a card, by throwing out the four spades only, you run the 
risk of leaving one of the following cards, viz. the king of clubs, 
the ace of diamonds, the ace, queen, or knave of spades ; in any 
of which cases you would probably lose more points than by 
throwing out of the ace of clubs ; and if you should carry two 
suits, viz. three clubs, three diamonds, and the queen of hearts, 
you run the risk of putting out fourteen points ; and it is only 
five to four against your taking in a queen or a knave, and 
therefore you would discard to a great disadvantage. 

VIII. Suppose you have the king, queen, and ten of a suit, 
and that your adversary has the ace, knave, and one small 
card of that suit ; and that you have only those three cards 
left, and you are to make three points of them, 

Q. What card are you to play ? 
212 



I 



PARTICULAR RULES AND CASES. 

A. You are to play the ten. 

IX. Suppose you have the ace, queen, ten, and nine of 
clubs ; also the king, queen, ten, and nine of diamonds, 

Q. Which of these suits are you to carry, in order to have 
the fairest probability of scoring the greatest number of 
points ? 

A. You are to carry the king, queen, ten, and nine of dia- 
monds, because the chance of taking in the ace of diamonds 
is exactly equal to that of taking in the king of clubs ; and 
also the chance of taking in the knave of diamonds is equal 
to that of taking the knave of clubs ; by which manner of 
discarding, you have a probability of scoring fifteen points, for 
your quint in diamonds, instead of four points for the quart in 
clubs, and the chance of winning the cards is better, because 
by taking in the ace of diamonds you have seven tricks cer- 
tain, which cannot happen by taking in the king of clubs. 

X. Suppose you have four aces and two kings dealt you, 
younger-hand, in order to capot the elder-hand, you are to 
make a deep discard, such as the queen, ten, and eight of a 
suit; by which means, if you happen not to take in any card 
to such suit, you may probably capot the adversary. 

XI. Suppose, being elder-hand, that you have the ace, 
queen, seven, eight, and nine of clubs; also the ace, knave, 
seven, eight, and nine of diamonds, 

Q. Which suit are you to carry, in order to make the most 
points ? 

A. You are to carry the ace, knave, seven, eight, and nine 
of diamonds, because the taking in the king of diamonds is 
equal to the taking in of the king of clubs, and consequently 
as good for winning the cards ; but you have the chance of 
taking in the ten of diamonds to make you fifteen points, which 
event cannot happen by taking in any one certain card in clubs. 

XII. Suppose, elder-hand, that you have the ace, queen, 
seven, eight, and ten of clubs ; aiso the ace, knave, seven, 
eight, and ten of diamonds, 

Q. Which suit is best to carry ? 

A. You are to carry the ace, knave, seven, eight, and ten 
of diamonds, because the chance of taking in the king of dia- 
monds is equal to the chance of taking in the king of clubs, 
and consequently as good for winning the cards ; but you 
have an additional chance of taking in the nine of diamonds 

213 



KQUET 

to make jour fifteen points, which event cannot happen bj 
taking in one certain card in clubs. 

XIII. Suppose you have the ace, queen, ten, and two mere 
of a suit; also the ace, queen, and ten of another suit only. 
And lat us suppose, that your adversary has shown six cards 
for his point; suppose the ace, queen, and four small ones, 
and suppose you are guarded in that suit ; as soon as you 
have the lead, you are to play from the suit of which you have 
the fewest in number, because if he is guarded in that suit, he 
is probably unguarded in the other suit ; but should you be- 
gin with the suit of which you have the most in number, if he 
happens to be guarded there, you have then no chance to win 
the cards ; which may prove otherwise, if you begin with the 
suit of which you have the fewest in number. If he is 
guarded in both suits, you have no chance to win the cards. 

SOME COMPUTATIONS, DIRECTING, WITH MORAL CERTAINTY, 
HOW TO DISCARD ANY HAND WELL. 

I. The chance of an elder-hand's taking in one certain card 
is three to one against him. 

II. That of his taking two certain cards is 18 to 1 against 
him. 

III. I would know what are the odds that an elder-hand 
takes in four aces? 

Against him. For him. 

A. That he takes in 4 aces is - 968 to 1 

At least 3 of them is about 33 to 1 

2 of them 3 to 1 

1 of them - 5 to 2 

IV. If an elder-hand has one ace dealt him, what are the 
odds that he takes in the other three ? 

Against him. For him. 

A. That he takes in the 3 aces - 113 to 1 
At least 2 of them about - 6 to 1 

1 of them 2 to 3 

V. If an elder-hand has two aces dealt him, what are the 
odds that he takes in the othor two ? 

Against him. For him 

A. That he takes in the other 2 aces is 18 to 1 
At least one of them is near 5 to 4 

against him, or - - 21 to 17 

214 



HOW TO DISCARD. 



VI. In case the elder-hand has two aces and two kings 
dealt him, what are the odds that he takes in either the two 
aces or two kings remaining ? 

Against him. For him. 
A. It is about 17 to 2 

VII. Elder-hand having neither ace nor king dealt him, 
what is his chance to take in both an ace and a king in 2, 3, 
4, or 5, cards ? 

Against him. For him. 
A. In 2 cards is about - - - 11 to 1 

In 3 cards 4tol 

In 4 cards 9 to 5 

In 5 cards 33 to 31 

VIII. What are the odds that a younger-hand takes in two 
certain cards ? 

Against him. For him. 

A. 62 to 1 

What are the odds that a younger-hand takes in three cer- 
tain cards ? 

Against him. For him. 

A. 1139 to 1 

IX. The younger-hand having no ace dealt him, what chance 
has he for his taking one ? 

Against him. For him. 

A. It is 28 to 29 

X. If the younger-hand has one ace dealt him what are the 
odds of his taking in one or two of the three remaining aces ? 

Against him. For him. 
A. That he takes in two of them is about 21 to 1 
At least one of them - 3 to 2 

XI. What are the odds that the younger-hand takes in one 
certain card ? 

Against him. For him. 
A. That he does not take it in is - 17 to 3 
What are the odds of a carte-blanche ? 



A. - 



Against him. 

1791 to 



For him. 
1 



AN EXPLANATION AND APPLICATION OF THE FOREGOING 
CALCULATIONS. 

I. As by the first calculation it is three to one, that, being 
elder hand, you do not take in one certain card ? you have, 

215 



PIQUET. 

therefore, a better chance of advancing your game, by carry- 
ing two suits for points and the cards, than by aiming at qua- 
torze of queens, knaves, or tens. 

II. Second calculation ; to take in two certain cards, elder- 
hand, is eighteen to one against you. 

Therefore suppose you have a quart-major, and two other 
aces dealt you, the odds that you do not take in the ten to 
your quart-major, and the other ace, is eighteen to one against 
you ; but that you take in one of them, is only twenty-one to 
seventeen against you. And suppose you have three aces and 
three kings dealt you, the odds are eighteen to one against 
your taking in the other ace and the other king ; yet it is not 
much above five to four, but that you take in one of them. 
This example shows, how you are to discard in cases of the 
like nature. 

III. The odds, in taking in four certain cards, as four aces, 
&c, being nine hundred and sixty -eight to one by the third 
calculation, is so great a chance of not succeeding, that it is 
scarce worth further notice. 

But that you take in three out of four certain cards, elder- 
hand, is only thirty-three to one against you. 

Example. — Suppose you have two aces and two kings dealt 
you, the odds of taking in three of them out of four certain 
cards, such as two kings and one ace, or two aces and a king, 
are only thirty-three to one against you. 

But suppose you should want to take in any two out of four 
certain cards, such as the queen of clubs, the ten of diamonds, 
the ace of spades, and knave of hearts, being elder-hand, it 
appears by the calculation to be three to one against you ; and 
the odds are the same as to any two out of four certain cards 

But if, being elder-hand, you only want one card out of 
four, the odds are five to two in your favor that you take it in. 
Therefore, if you have four tens, or any inferior quatorze dealt 
you, and no ace, it is great odds in your favor, that, being 
elder-hand, you take in one ace, and ought to play your game 
accordingly. But you must always consider the disadvantage 
either of losing the cards, or running the risk of a capot, 
which you do by keeping four tens when they are not good. 

IV. By the fourth calculation ) if you have one ace dealt 
you, it is one hundred and thirteen to one, that you do not 
take in the three others ; forty -nine to eight, or about six to 

216 



I 



COMPUTATIONS HOW TO DISCARD APPLIED. 

one, that you do not take in two out of the three ; but that 
you take in one out of the three, is about three to two in your 
favor, or one hundred and thirty-seven to ninety-one. 

As for Example. — If you have a quart to a king, and two 
other kings dealt you ; as it is three to two that you take in 
cither ace or nine to your quart to the king, or the fourth 
king, and you have the chance of reckoning fourteen or fif- 
teen points by this method of discarding, you ought to play 
accordingly. And this method shows you how to play any 
hand of the like sort. 

But if you should discard, with an expectation of taking in 
two out of three certain cards, the odds against such an event 
being above six to one, your game must indeed be very despe- 
rate, if you attempt to discard with that view. The chance of 
taking in three certain cards, being one hundred and thirteen 
to one, is a very distant chance ; yet even such does happen 
sometimes, but ought never to be ventured upon, but when a 
man has no other resource in the game. 

V. The fifth calculation is, that if you have two aces dealt 
you, it is eighteen to one that you do not take in the two other 
aces, but only seventeen to twenty-one that you take in one 
of them. Let us illustrate the use of this by an example ; 
suppose you have a quart-major dealt you, and a quart to a 
king, and that you are greatly behind your adversary in the 
game : to take in the ten to your quart-major is three to one 
against you ; but to take in the ace or nine to your quart to 
the king, is only about five to four against you. 

Also, by the same rule, suppose you have three kings and 
three queens dealt you, the odds of your taking in both a king 
and a queen, are eighteen to one against you ; but that of 
your taking one of them, is only five to four against you. 

All other cases of the like nature may be discarded by this 
method of calculation. 

VI. As by the sixth calculation, it is seventeen to two that 
you do not take in two certain cards out of four, such as two 
kings, two queens, &c, you must not, therefore, confound this 
with the third calculation, where the odds are not above three 
to one that you take in two cards out of the four. 

VII. Having neither an ace nor a king dealt you, what are 
the odds of your taking in both an ace and a king in two, in 
three, in four, or in five cards ? 

20 217 



PIQUET 

A. To take in an ace and a king. 

Against yon. For yom 
In 2 cards is about - - - 11 to 1 

In 3 cards 4tol 

In 4 cards ----- 9 to 5 

In 5 cards - - - - - 33 to 31 
You may observe, by the foregoing calculation, what are 
the odds of taking in two, three, four, or five cards, out of 
any eight certain cards, and consequently discard to the 
greatest advantage. 

The foregoing calculation is either for the elder or younger- 
hand. 

Example. — Let us suppose the younger-hand to have two 
quatorze against him, he may observe, that it is not above 
four to one but that he takes in one of each of them. The 
like rule may serve for any other eight certain cards. 

VIII. As by the eighth calculation it is sixty-two to one, 
that the younger-hand does not take in two certain cards, he 
ought not therefore to run so great a hazard except when his 
game is desperate, and does not promise him another deal. 

IX. By the ninth calculation, as it is twenty-nine to twenty- 
eight that the younger-hand takes in one ace, having none 
dealt him : the calculation is the same for any card out of 
four certain cards. 

As for Example. — Suppose you have two quarts dealt you 
from the king or queen of any suit, there are the same odds 
of twenty-nine to twenty-eight, but that you take in a card 
to make one of them a quint, and therefore you are to discard 
accordingly. 

As also, that you take in either ace, king, queen, knave of 
any one suit, when a pique or a repique is against you. 

X. The tenth calculation is, that if the younger hand has 
one ace dealt him it is twenty-one to one that he does not take 
in two aces, and about three to two that he does not take in 
one of them ; which calculation holds good in the taking in 
any three other certain cards. Therefore, for example, let us 
suppose, that as it is but three to two against the younger- 
hand's taking one card out of three to save a pique, or a 
repique, it would generally be reckoned good play, either to 
throw one from his point, or discard a king, &c, for the event 
of such a chance. 

218 



CASES OF CURIOSITY AND INSTRUCTION. 

XI. By the eleventh calculation it is seventeen to three, 
younger-hand, against your taking in any one certain card ; 
therefore, the odds of not succeeding in this case are so 
greatly against you, that it ought not to be attempted, espe- 
cially if the winning or saving the cards is risked by so doing, 
except in desperate cases. 

CASES OF CURIOSITY AND INSTRUCTION. 

I. Suppose you are younger-hand, and that you have the 
queen, knave, seven, eight, and nine of clubs ; also the seven, 
eight of diamonds, the seven of hearts, and the ten, nine, eight, 
and seven of spades ; and that the elder-hand has left a card, 

Q. How are you to discard, to put it in the power of the 
cards to repique the elder-hand. 

A. You are to carry the five clubs and the four spades, and 
to leave a card ; and by taking in the ace, king, and ten of 
clubs, you repique your adversary. 

II. Suppose you have eight clubs, the ace and king of dia- 
monds, the ace of hearts, and the ace of spades, 

Q. Whether do you repique the younger-hand, or not ? 

A. The younger-hand may have a carte-blanche, by having 
three quarts to a ten, which reckons first ; and therefore he is 
not repiqued. 

III. What is the highest number to be made of a pique ? 
A. Eighty-two points. 

What are the cards which compose that number ? 

A. A quart-major in two suits, ace, king, and ten of the 
third, with the ace of the fourth. 

This is only upon the supposition that the quart-major is 
good for every thing. 

IV. What is the highest number to be made of a repique 
and capot? 

A. A hundred and seventy points. 
What are the cards which compose that number? 
A. The four tierce-majors, which are supposed to be good 
for every thing. 

V. Suopose you are elder-hand, and that you want eight 
points of the game, and that the younger-hand wants twenty- 
three points ? and suppose you have dealt you the ace, king, 
and queen of clubs ; the ace, king, and ten of diamonds ) the 

219 



PIQUET. 

ace, knave, and nine of hearts; the knave, nine, and seven 
of spades, 

Q. How are you to discard, to prevent any possibility of 
the younger-hand's making twenty-three points, without his 
reckoning a carte-blanche ? 

A. You are to discard the king and queen of clubs, and 
the knave, nine, and seven of spades ; by which method of 
discarding you are certain to make eight points, before the 
younger-hand can make twenty-three points. 

VI. Suppose you have the ace, queen, and knave of clubs 
with the king and ten of diamonds ; and suppose your adver- 
sary has the ace, queen, and knave of diamonds, and the king 
and ten of clubs, your adversary being to lead, is to make 
five points, or to lose the game, 

Q. How shall you play to prevent him from making five 
points ? 

A. When he plays his ace of clubs, you are to play your 
king of clubs ; by which means he can make only four points. 

VII. A and B play a partie at Piquet. 
They are one game each of the partie. 

A has it in his power to win the second game ; but then he 
is younger-hand at the beginning of the next game. 

A has it also in his power to reckon only ninety-nine points 
of the second game, and B is to be seventy : 

Q. Whether is it A's interest to win the second game, or 
not? 

A. It is A's interest to win the second game, in the pro- 
portion of fourteen to thirteen in his favor. 

BOME COMPUTATIONS FOR LAYING MONEY AT THE GAME 

OF PIQUET. 

I. It is five to four that the eldest-hand wins the game. 

II. It is about two to one that the eldest-hand does not 
lurch the younger-hand. 

III. It is near four to one that the younger-hand does not 
lurch the elder-hand. 

SUPPOSE A AND B MAKE A PARTIE AT PIQUET. 

I. A has the hand ; what are the odds that A wins the 
partie ? 

A. It is about twenty-three to twenty. 
220 



LAWS OP PIQUET. 

II. If A has one game, and B one game, he who is eldest- 
hand has above five to four to win the partie. 

III. If A has two games love, and A has the hand, the 
odds are about five to one that he wins the partie. 

IV. If B has the hand when A has two games love, the 
odds in favor of A are about three and a half to one. 

V. If A has the hand, and two games to one, the odds are 
about eleven to four. 

VI. If B has the hand, when A is two games to one, the 
odds in favour of A are about nine to five. 

VII. If A is one game love, and elder-hand, the odds in 
favor of A is about seventeen to seven. 

VIII. If A is one game love, and younger-hand the odds 
in favor of A is about two to one. 

LAWS OP THE GAME AT PIQUET. 

I. The elder-hand is obliged to lay out at least one card. 

II. If the elder-hand takes in one of the three cards which 
belong to the younger-hand, he loses the game. 

III. If the elder-hand, in taking his five cards, should hap- 
pen to turn up a card belonging to the younger-hand, he is to 
reckon nothing that deal. 

IV. If the elder or younger-hand play with thirteen cards, 
he counts nothing. 

V. Should either of the players have thirteen cards dealt, 
it is at the option of the elder-hand to stand the deal, or not; 
and if he chooses to stand, then the person having thirteen is 
to discard one more than he takes in ; but should either party 
have above thirteen cards, then a new deal must take place. 

VI. If the elder or younger-hand reckons what he has not, 
he counts nothing. 

VII. If the elder-hand touches the stock after he has dis- 
carded, he cannot alter his discard. 

VIII. If a card is faced, and it happens to be discovered 
either in the dealing, or in the stock, there must be a new 
deal, unless it be the bottom card. 

IX. If the dealer turns up a card in dealing, belonging to 
the elder-hand, it is in the option of the elder-hand to have a 
new deal. 

X. If the younger-hand, takes in five cards, he loses the 
game, unless the elder-hand has left two cards. 

20* 221 



PIQUET. 

XI. If the elder-hand calls forty-one for his point, which 
happens to be a quart-major, and it is allowed to be good, and 
only reckons four for it, and plays away, in this case he is not 
entitled to count more. 

XII. If the elder-hand shows a point, or quart, or tierce, 
and asks if they are good, and afterwards forgets to reckon 
any of them, it bars the younger-hand from reckoning any of 
equal value. 

XIII. Carte-blanche counts first, and consequently saves 
piques and repiques : It also piques and repiques the adver- 
sary in the same manner, as if those points were reckoned in 
any other way. 

XIV. Carte-blanche need not be shown till the adversary 
has first discarded ; only if you are eldest-hand, you must bid 
the younger-hand discard for carte-blanche ; which, after he 
has done, you show your blanche by counting your cards 
down one after another. 

XV. You are to cut two cards at the least. 

XVI. If the elder-hand calls a point, and does not show it, 
it is not to be reckoned ; and the younger-hand may show, 
and reckon his point. 

XVII. If you play with eleven cards, or fewer, no penalty 
attends it. 

XVIII. If the elder-hand leaves a card, and after he has 
taken in, happens to put to his discard the four cards taken 
in, they must remain with his discard, and he only plays with 
eight cards, viz., those added to his discard. 

XIX. If the younger-hand leaves a card or cards and mixes 
it with his discard before he has shown it to the elder-hand, 
who is first to tell him what he will play, the elder-hand is 
entitled to see his whole discard. 

XX. If the younger-hand leaves a card or cards, and does 
not see them, nor mixes them to his discard, the eldest-hand 
has no right to see them ; but then they must remain separate 
whilst the cards are playing, and the younger-hand cannot 
look at them at all. 

XXI. If the younger-hand leaves a card or cards, and looks 
at them, the elder-hand is entitled to see them, first declaring 
what suit he will lead. 

XXII. If the dealer deals a card too many, or too few, it 
is in the option of the elder-hand to have a new deal; but if he 

222 



PIQUET. 

stands the deal, he must leave three cards for the younger- 
hand. 

XXIII. You are, in the first place, to call your point; and 
if you have two points, and design to reckon the highest, you 
are to call that first, and are to abide by your first call. 

XXIV. You are to call your tierces, quarts, quints, &c, 
next ; and to call the highest of thein, in case you design to 
reckon them. 

XXV. You are to call a quatorze, preferable to three aces, 
&c, if you design to reckon them. 

XXVI. If you call a tierce, having a quart in your hand, 
you must abide by your first call. 

XXVII. Whoever deals twice together and discovers it 
previous to seeing his cards, may insist upon his adversary 
dealing, although the latter may have looked at his cards. 

XXVIII. Should the pack be found erroneous in any deal, 
that deal is void ; but the preceding deals are valid. 

XXIX. The player who at the commencement does not 
reckon or show carte-blanche, his point, or any sequence, &c, 
is not to count them afterwards. 

XXX. No player can discard twice, and after he has 
touched the stock, he is not allowed to take any of his dis- 
card back again. 

XXXI. When the elder-hand does not take all his cards, 
he must specify what number he takes or leaves. 

XXXII. Whosoever calls his game wrong and does not 
correct himself before he plays, is not to reckon anything that 
game ; but the adversary is to reckon all he has good in his 
own game. 

XXXIII. Any card that has touched the board is deemed 
to be played unless in case of a revoke. 

XXXIV. If any player names a suit, and then plays a dif- 
ferent one, the antagonist may call a suit. 

XXXV. The player who looks at any card belonging to 
the stock, is liable to have a suit called. 

TERMS USED AT PIQUET. 

Capot is when either of the players makes every trick, for 
which he scores forty. 

Cards signify the majority of tricks, which reckon for ten 
points. 

223 



fclQUEf. 

Carte Blanche means a hand without a court card in the 
twelve dealt, which counts for ten. and takes place of every- 
thing else. 

HuitUme, eight successive cards of the same suit, counts 
eighteen points. 

Pique, is when the elder hand has reckoned thirty in hand, 
and plays before the adversary has gained one ; in which case, 
instead of thirty it is called sixty, adding thereto as many 
points as are obtained above thirty. 

Pointy the greatest number on the cards of the same suit in 
hand after having taken in, reckoned by their pips, scores for 
as many points as cards. 

Quart, four cards in sequence of the same suit counts four 
points : there are five kinds of quarts, the first, called quart- 
major, consists of ace, king, queen, and knave; the second 
quart from a king, of king, queen, knave, and ten ; the third, 
quart from a queen, of queen, knave, ten, nine ; the fourth, 
quart from a knave, of knave, ten, nine, eight; the fifth, a 
basse-quart of quart-minor, of ten, nine, eight, and seven. 

Quatorze, the four aces, kings, queens, knaves, or tens, 
scores fourteen points. 

Quint means five cards of the same suit in sequence, and 
reckons fifteen points : there are four sorts of quints; a quint- 
major of ace, king, queen, knave, and ten, down to knave, 
ten, nine, eight and seven, styled a quint-minor. 

Rep [que signifies when one of the players counts thirty or 
more in hand, before the adversary obtains one, then it is 
called ninety, reckoning as many points above ninety as were 
gained above thirty. 

Sixieme, or six cards of the same suit in sequence, reckons 
for sixteen points : there are three sorts of sixiemes, viz., 
sixieme-major from the ace, sixieme from the king, and 
sixieme-minor from the queen. 

Septieme, or seven of the same suit in sequence, counts foi 
seventeen points ; there are two septiemes, one from the ace, 
the other from the king. 

Threes of aces, &c, down to tens, reckon three points 

Talon, or Stock, means the eight remaining cards after 
twelve are dealt to each player. 

Tierce, or sequence of three, reckons for three : there are 
six kinds of tierces, tierce-major, of ace, king, queen; down 
to nine, eight, seven, styled tierce-minor. 
224 



QUADRILLE. 



TllE game of Quadrille is played by four persons. The 
number of cards required are forty ; the four tens, nines, and 
eights, being discarded from the pack. The deal is made by 
distributing the cards to each player, three at a time, for two 
rounds, and four at a time, for one round ; commencing with 
the right hand player, who is the elder hand. 

The trump is made by the player, with or without calling, 
by naming spades, clubs, diamonds, or hearts, and the suit so 
named becomes trumps. 

The two following tables will show the rank and order of 
the cards, when trumps, or when not so. 

The Rank or Order of the Cards when not Trumps. 



Clubs and Spades. 



Hearts and Diamonds. 



King, 

Queen, 

Knave, 

Seven, 

Six, 



Five, 
Four, 
Three, 
Deuce, 
In all 9. 



King, 

Queen, 

Knave, 

Ace, 

Deuce, 



Three, 

Four, 

Five, 

Six, 

Seven,- 



-InalllO. 



The Rank and Order of the Cards when Trumps. 



Clubs and Spades. 
Spadille, the ace of spades. 
Manille, the deuce of spades 

of clubs, 
Basto, the ace of clubs, 



King, Six, 

Queen, Five, 

Knave, Four, 

Seven, Three, In all 11. 



Hearts and Diamonds. 
Spadille, the ace of spades, 
Manille, the seven of hearts, 

or of diamonds, 
Basto, the ace of clubs, 
Punto (or Ponto,) the ace of 

hearts or of diamonds, 
King, Three, 
Queen, Four, 
Knave, Five, 

Deuce, Six, In all 12. 

225 



QUADRILLE. 

From these tables it will be observed that spadille and 
basto are always trumps, and that the red suits have one 
trump more than the black; the former twelve, the latter 
only eleven. 

There is a trump between spadille and basto, which is 
called manille, and is in black the deuce, and in red the seven : 
they are the second cards when trumps, and the last in their 
respective suits when not trumps. Example : the deuce of 
spades being second trump, when they are trumps, and the 
lowest card when clubs, hearts, or diamonds are trumps ; and 
so of the rest. 

Ponto, is the ace of hearts or diamonds, which are above 
the king, and the fourth trump, when either of those suits 
are trumps ; but are below the knave, and called ace of dia- 
monds or. hearts, when they are not trumps. The two of 
hearts or diamonds is always superior to the three ; the three 
to the four ; the four to the five ; and the five to the six : the 
six is only superior to the seven when it is not trumps, for 
when the seven is manille, it is the second trump. 

There are three matadores, viz., spadille, manille, and 
basto ; whose privilege is, that when the player has no other 
trumps but them, and trumps are led, he is not obliged to 
play them, but may play what card he thinks proper, provi- 
ded, however, that the trump led is of an inferior value ; but 
if spadille should be led, he that has manille or basto only, is 
compelled to play it, which is the case, with basto in respect 
to manille, the superior matadore always forcing the inferior. 

Although properly speaking, there are but three matadores, 
yet all those trumps which succeed the three first without in- 
terruption, are also called matadores ; but the three first only 
enjoy the privilege aboved stated. 

TERMS USED IN THE GAME OF QUADRILLE. 

To ask leave, is to ask leave to play with a partner, by 
calling a king. 

Basto, is the ace of clubs, and always the third best trump. 

Bast, is a penalty incurred by not winning when you stand 
your game, or by renouncing : in which cases you pay as 
many counters as are down. 
226 



TERMS USED AT QUADRILLE. 

Cheville, is being between the eldest hand and the dealer. 

Codille, is when those who defend the pool make more 
tricks thau those who defend the game, which is called win- 
ning the codille. 

Consolation, is a claim in the game, always played by 
those who lose, whether by codille or remise. 

Devolve, is when he who stands the game makes no trick. 

Double, is to play for double stakes, with regard to the 
game, the consolation, the sans prendre, the matadores, and 
the devolve. 

Force ; the ombre is said to be forced, when a strong 
trump is played for the adversary to over-trump. He is like- 
wise said to be forced, when he asks leave, and one of the 
other players obliges him to play sans prendre, or pass, by 
offering to play sans prendre. 

Forced sfadille, is when all have passed, he who has 
spadille is obliged to play it. 

Forced sans prendre, is, when having asked leave, one 
of the players offers to play alone, in which case you are 
obliged to play alone, or pass. 

Friend, is the player who has the king called. 

Impasse. To make the impasse, is when, being in che- 
ville, the knave of a suit is played, of which the player has 
the king. 

Manille, is, in black, the deuce of spades or clubs ; in 
red, the seven of hearts or diamonds; and is always the 
second best trump. 

Mark, means the fish put down by the dealer. 

Mille, is a mark of ivory, which is sometimes used, and 
stands for ten fish. 

Matadores, or mats, are spadille, manille, and basto, 
which are always the three best trumps. False matadores, 
are any sequence of trumps, following the matadores regu- 
larly. 

Ombre, is the name given to him who stands the game, by 
calling or playing sans appeller, or sans prendre. 

Party, is the duration of the game, according to the 
number of tours agreed to be played. 

227 



QUADRILLE 

Pass, is the term used when you have not a hand either to 
play alone, or with calling a king. 

Ponto OR Punto, is the ace of diamonds, when diamonds 
are trumps j or hearts, when they are trumps ; and is then the 
fourth trump. 

Pool. The pool consists of the fishes, which are staked 
for the deals, or the counters put down by the players, or 
the basts which go to the game. To defend the pool is to be 
against him who stands the game. 

Prise, is the number of fish or counters given to each 
player at the commencement of the game. 

Regle, is the order to be observed at the game. 

Remise, is when those who stand the game do not make 
more tricks than they who defend the pool, and then they 
lose by remise. 

Renounce, is not to play in the suit led when you have 
it : likewise when not having any of the suit led, you wio 
with a card that is the only one you have of that suit in which 
you play. 

Reprise and Report, are synonymous with Party. 

Roi rendu, is the king surrendered when called, and 
given to the ombre, for which he pays a fish. In which case 
the person to whom the king is given up, must win the game 
alone 

Spadille, is the ace of spades ; which is always the best 
trump. 

Sans appeller, is playing without calling a king. 

Sans prendre, is erroneously used for sans appeller, 
meaning the same. 

Tenace, is to wait with two trumps that must make, when 
he who has two others is obliged to lead ; such as the two 
black aces against manille or punto. 

Tours, are the counters, which they who win put down, 
to mark the number of coups played. 

Vole, is to get all the tricks, either with a friend or alone, 
sans prendre, or declared at the first of the deal. 



228 



Manner of playing quadrille. 



MANNER OF PLAYING THE GAME AND DEALING THE CARDS, 
OF THE STAKES, OF SPEAKING, OF THE BAST, &0., &C. 

1. Every person is to play as he thinks proper, and most 
advantageously to his own game. 

2. No one is to encourage his friend to play ; but each 
person should know what to do when he is to play. 

3. The stakes consist of seven equal billets or contracts, 
as they are sometimes called, comprising the ten counters and 
fishes, which are distributed to each player. A mille is equal 
to ten fish, and every fish to ten counters : the value of the 
fish is according to the players' agreement, as also the number 
of tours ; which are usually fixed at ten, and marked by turn- 
ing the corners of a card. 

4. After each player has received his ten cards, he that is 
on the left hand of the dealer, upon examining his hand, must 
declare whether he plays ; and if he has not a good hand, he 
passes, and so the second, the third, and fourth. All four 
may pass : but he who has spadille, after having shown or 
named it, is compelled to play by calling a king. 

5. If the deal is played in this manner, or one of the 
players has asked leave, and no one choosing to play without 
calling, tne eldest hand must begin ; previously naming his 
suit, and the king he calls ; he who wins the trick must play 
another card, and the rest of course, till the game is finished. 
The tricks are then reckoned, and if the ombre, meaning him 
who stands the game, has, together with him who has king 
called, six tricks, they have won, and are accordingly paid 
the game, the consolation, and the matadores, if they have 
them, and divide what is upon the game, and the basts, if 
there be any. 

6. Should they make only six tricks, it is a remise, and 
they are basted, what goes upon the game ; paying to the 
other players the consolation and the matadores. When the 
tricks are equally divided between them they are also basted ; 
and if they make only four tricks between them, it is a remise. 
Should they make less, they lose codille, and in that case pay 
their adversaries what they should have received if they had 
won ; namely, the game, consolation and matadores, if they 
have them, and are basted what is upon the game ; and if 

21 229 



QUADRILLE. 

they win codille, divide the stakes. The bast, and everything 
that is paid, arise equally from the two losers; one -half by 
him who calls, and the other by him who is called; eqally 
the same in case of codille as a remise, unless the ombre does 
not make three tricks, in which case, he who is called is not 
only exempt from paying half the bast, but also the game, 
consolation, and matadores, if there are any, which, in that 
case, the ombre pays alone, and likewise in case of a codille 
as a remise. This rule is enforced to prevent unreasonable 
games being played. 

7. A single case may occur, in which if the ombre makes 
only one trick, he is not basted alone; which is, when not 
having a good hand, he passes, and all the other players have 
passed likewise, and he having spadille is compelled to play. 
In this case, it would be unjust to oblige him to make three 
or four tricks ; wherefore he who is called pays a moiety of 
the losing ; and, for the same reason, he who has spadille, 
with a bad hand, should pass, in order that if he is afterwards 
obliged to play by calling a king (which is called forced spa- 
dille,) he may not be basted singly. 

8. The player who has once passed, cannot be allowed to 
play : and he who has asked leave cannot refuse to play ; un- 
less another should propose playing without calling. 

9. When a person has four kings, he may call a queen to 
one of his kings, but not that which is trumps. He who has 
one or more kings may call himself, that is one of those kings ; 
but in this case he must make six tricks alone, and therefore 
wins or loses singly. The king of the suit in which he plays 
cannot be called. 

10. "When he who is not eldest of hand has the king called, 
and plays spadille, manille, or basto, or even the king called, 
in order to show that he is the friend, having other kings that 
he is apprehensive the ombre may trump, he is not to be 
alloyed to go for the vole ; and he is basted, if it should ap- 
pear it is done with that design. 

11. No hand is allowed to be shown, though codille may 
already be won, in order that it may be seen whether the 
ombre is basted singly. Should the ombre or his friend 
show his cards, before he has made six tricks, judging 
that he might have made them, and there should appear 
a possibility of preventing his making them, the other 

230 



MANNER OF PLAYING QUADRILLE. 

players may compel him to play his cards in what order they 
choose. 

12. Whoever plays without calling must himself make six 
tricks to win ; all the other players being united against him, 
and therefore exert their combined efforts to distress him. 
Whoever plays without calling, is permitted to play in pre- 
ference to any other, who would play with calling ; neverthe- 
less, if he who has asked leave will play without calling, he 
has the preference of him who would force him. These are 
the two methods of play without calling, which are called 
forced. 

13. He who plays without calling, not dividing the winnings 
with any other player, consequently when he loses pays all 
himself. Should he lose by remise, he is basted, and pays 
each other player the consolation, the sans appeller (com- 
monly, though erroneously, called the sans prendre,) and 
the matadores, should there be any. Should he lose co- 
dille, he is also basted, and pays each player what he 
would have received from them if he had been the win- 
ner. Those who win codille divide the gains : and if there 
be any remaining counters, they belong to the player of 
the three who may have the spadille, or the highest trump 
in the succeeding deal. The same rule operates with respect 
to him who calls one of his own kings ; he wins or loses 
alone, as in the other case, except the sans appeller, which 
he pays if a loser, or receives as a winner, although he plays 
singly. 

14. Should he play sans appeller, though he may have a 
sure game, he is compelled to name his suit ; which neglect- 
ing, showing his cards, and saying, " I play sans appeller," 
in this case, either of the rest of the players can oblige him 
to play in which suit he chooses, though he should not have 
a trump in that suit. 

15. No player is compelled to trump, when he is not 
possessed of any of the suit led, nor obliged to play a higher 
card in that suit if he has it; it being optional to him, al- 
though he is the last player, and the trick belongs to the 
ombre ; but he is compelled to play in the suit led if he can, 
otherwise he renounces. Should he separate a card from his 
game and show it, he is compelled to play it ; if, by not doing 
it, the game should be prejudicied, or give any intelligence 

231 



QUADRILLB. 

to his friend, but particularly if it should be a matadore. He 
who plays sans appeller, or by calling himself, is not subject 
to this rule. 

16. One player may turn the tricks made by the others, 
and reckon what has been played ; but only when it is his 
turn to play. Should he, instead of turning a player's tricks, 
turn and see his game, or show it to the other players, he is 
basted, together with him whose cards he turned ; each paying 
a moiety of the loss. 

17. He who renounces is basted as often as detected ; but 
no renounce takes place till the trick is turned. Should the 
renounce be discovered before the deal is finished, and has 
proved detrimental to the game, the cards must be taken up 
again, and the game replayed from that trick where the 
renounce began. But should all the cards be played, the 
bast is still made, and the cards must not be replayed, unless 
there should be several renounces in the same deal. In this 
case they are to be played again, unless the cards should 
have been previously mixed together. When several basts 
appear in the same deal, they all go together, unless a differ- 
ent agreement is made ; and in cases of bast, the greatest is 
first reckoned. 

SHORT RULES FOR LEARNERS. 

1. When you are the ombre, and your friend leads from a 
mat, play your best trump, and then lead the next best the 
first opportunity. 

2. If you possess all the trumps, continue leading them, 
except you hold certain other winning cards. 

3. If all the mats are not revealed, by the time you have 
six tricks, do not run a risk in playing for the vole. 

4. When you are the friend called, and hold only a mat, 
lead it ; but if it is guarded by a small trump, lead that. 
But when the ombre is last player, lead the best trump you 
possess. 

5. Punto in red, or king of trumps in black, are good cards 
to lead when you are best, and should either of them succeed, 
then play a small trump. 

6. If the ombre leads to discover his friend, and you have 
king, queen, and knave, put on the knave. 

7. Preserve the suit called, whether friend or foe. 
232 



GAMES IN RED. 

8. When playing against a lone hand, never lead a king, un- 
less you have the queen ; nor change the suit ; and prevent, 
if possible, the ombre fram being last player. 

9. You are to call to your strongest suits, except you have 
a queen guarded ; and if elder hand, you have a better chance 
than when middle hand. 

10. A good player may succeed better with a weaker hand, 
when either elder or younger, than if middle hand. 

PARTICULAR GAMES. 

Having made the learner acquainted with the rules neces- 
sary to a knowledge of the game of quadrille, we shall now 
present him with a copious collection of such cases as give a 
fair chance of winning the game by calling a king ; with 
directions at the end of each case, what trump it is necessary 
to lead. 



Games in Red, which may be played, calling a King. 

I. Spadille, manille, two small hearts or diamonds, the 
queen of clubs and one small one, and four small cards of the 
other suits. Lead a small trump. 

II. Spadille, manille, two small hearts or diamonds, with 
the knave and two small clubs, and three small cards of the 
other suits. Lead a small trump. 

III. Spadille, manille, two small hearts or diamonds, three 
small clubs, and three small cards of the other suits. Lead 
a small trump. 

IV. Spadille, punto, king, queen, and one small heart or 
diamond, three small clubs, the queen, and one spade. Lead 
punto. 

V. Spadille, punto, king, knave, and one small heart or 
diamond, the knave and two small clubs, and two small 
spades. Lead punto. 

VI. Spadille, king, queen, knave, and one small heart or 
diamond, with the queen, knave, and one small club, and two 
small spades. Lead the king of trumps. 

VII. Spadille, three, four, five, and six of hearts or dia- 
monds, king of clubs and one more, queen and two small 

21* 233 



QUADRILLE. 

spades \ whether elder or any other hand, when you have the 
lead play a small trump, in the second lead play spadille. 

VIII. Manille, basto, punto, and two small hearts or di& 
nionds, three small clubs, and the knave and one spade. Lead 
manille. 

IX. N. B. Manille, basto, king, and two small hearts or 
diamonds, queen, and one small club, and three small spades. 
Lead manille. 

X. N. B. Manille, basto, queen, and two small hearts or 
diamonds, queen, and two small clubs, knave, and one spade. 
Lead manille. 

XI. Manille, basto, with the three smallest hearts or dia- 
monds, queen, and one small club, knave, and two small 
spades. Play a small trump. 

XII. N. B. Manille, punto, king, and two small hearts or 
diamonds, queen, knave, and one small club, king and one 
small spade. Lead manille. 

XIII. Manille, punto, queen, and two small hearts or dia- 
monds, queen and one small club, king and two small spades. 
Play a small trump. 

XIV. Manille, punto, and three small hearts or diamonds, 
knave and one small club, king, queen, and one small spade. 
Play a small trump. 

XV. Manille, and the four smallest hearts or diamonds, 
queen, and one small club, king, queen, and one small spade. 
Play a small trump. 

XVI. N. B. Basto, punto, king, and two small hearts or 
diamonds, king and queen of clubs, queen, and two small 
spades. Lead basto. 

XVII. N. B. Basto, punto, queen, and two small hearts or 
diamonds, queen, knave, and one small club, king and queen 
of spades. Lead basto. 

XVIII. N. B. Basto, punto, and three of the smallest 
hearts or diamonds, king and queen of clubs, queen, knave, 
and one small spade. Play a small trump. 

XIX. Basto, and the four smallest hearts or diamonds, 
king and queen of clubs, queen, knave, and one small spade. 
Play a small trump. 

XX. N. B. Punto, king, queen, and two small hearts or 
diamonds, king and queen of clubs, queen, knave, and one 
small spade. Lead punto. 

234 



GAMES IN BLACK. 

XXI. Punto, king, and three small hearts or diamonds, 
king and queen of clubs, queen, knave, and one small spade. 
Play a small trump. 

You are to observe that those cases which are marked thus, 
(N. B.) are very good games to play, and that you have the 
odds of your side, to win those which are not marked. 

Games in Blacky which may be played, calling a King. 

I. Spadille, manille, and two small clubs or spades, the 
knave, and two small hearts, and three small diamonds. Lead 
a small trump. 

II. N. B. Spadille, manille, and two small clubs or spades, 
queen, and two small hearts, and three small diamonds. Lead 
a small trump. 

III. Spadille, manille, and two small clubs or spades, three 
small hearts, three small diamonds. Lead a small trump. 

IV. N. B. Spadille, king, queen, and two small clubs or 
spades, with the queen and one small heart, three small dia- 
monds. Lead the king of trumps. 

V. Spadille, king, knave, and two small clubs, queen, and 
two diamonds, two small hearts. Play a small trump. 

VI. Spadille, queen, and three small clubs or spades, 
queen, and two small hearts, two small diamonds. Play a 
small trump. 

VII. Spadille, and the four smallest clubs or spades, king, 
and one small heart, queen and two small diamonds. Play a 
small trump. 

VIII. Manille, basto, king, and two small clubs or spades, 
three small hearts, and two small diamonds. Lead manille. 

IX. Manille, basto, queen, and two small clubs or spades, 
three small hearts, queen, and cne small diamond. Lead 
manille. 

X. Manille, basto, knave, and two small clubs or spades, 
knave and one heart, three small diamonds. Lead manille 

XL Manille, basto, and three small clubs or spades, queen 
and two small hearts, knave and one small diamond. Lead 
manille. 

XII. N. B. Manille, king, queen, and two small clubs or 

235 



QUADRILLE 

spades, king, and one small heart, queen, knave, and one 
small diamond. Lead manille. 

XIII. N. B. Manille, king, knave, and two small clubs or 
spades, king and one small heart, queen and two small dia- 
monds. Lead manille. 

XIV. Manille, king, and three small clubs or spades, queen, 
and two small hearts, king and one small diamond. Play a 
small trump. 

XV. Manille, and the four smallest clubs or spades, king, 
queen, and one small heart, two small diamonds. Play a small 
trump. 

XVI. N. B. Basto, king, queen, and two small clubs or 
spades, queen, and two small hearts, king and one small dia- 
mond. Lead basto. 

XVII. N. B. Basto, king, knave, and two small clubs or 
spades, knave and one heart, king and two small diamonds. 
Lead basto. 

XVIII. N. B. Basto, king, and three small clubs or spades, 
king and queen of hearts, queen and two small diamonds. 
Play a small trump. 

XIX. Basto, and four of the smallest clubs or spades, king 
and queen of hearts, queen, knave, and one small diamond. 
Play a small trump. 

XX. N. B. King, queen, knave, and two small clubs or 
spades, king and queen of hearts, knave and two small dia- 
monds. Lead the king of trumps. 

XXI. King, queen, seven, six, and five of clubs or spades, 
king and queen of hearts, queen, knave, and one small dia- 
mond. Lead the king of trumps. 

You are to observe, that those cases which are marked thus, 
(N. B.) are very good games to play, and you have the odds 
of your side to win those which are not marked. 

N. B. You are to call to your strongest suits, except you 
have a queen guarded. And if you are elder hand, you have 
a fairer chance to win the game than if middle hand, because 
you have ar opportunity of leading a trump, which frequently 
makes your Adversaries play against each other. 

236 



ODDS Or WINNING AT QUADRILLE. 



CASES CALCULATED, SHOWING THE PLAYERS THE ODDS Of 
WINNING THE FOLLOWING GAMES AT QUADRILLE, SANS 
PRENDRE ; AND ALSO SUCH GAMES AS OUGHT NOT TO BE 
PLAYED SANS PRENDRE. 

Games in Blacky Elder Hand. 

I. Three matadores in clubs, king and six of diamonds, 
king and six of hearts, king, five and six of spades. Play 
trumps to all the elder-hand games. The above game wins 
27 to 4. 

II. Three matadores and the three of clubs, king and six 
of diamonds, king and six of hearts, and two small spades. 
The above game wins 215 to 162, or about 4 to 3. 

III. Three matadores, three and four of clubs, king and 
six of diamonds, three small hearts. Wins 291 to 86, or 
above 10 to 3. 

IV. Three matadores, with the three, four, and five of 
clubs, two small diamonds, and two small hearts. Wins near 
10 to 1. 

V. Spadille, manille, king, knave, three and four of clubs, 
two small diamonds, two small hearts. Wins 4895 to 3022, 
or about 8 to 5. 

VI. Spadille, manille, king, three, four and five of clubs, 
two small diamonds, two small hearts. Wins about 8 to 5. 

VII. Spadille, manille, king, three and four of clubs, king 
and six of diamonds, and three small hearts. Loses 1514 to 
1125, or about 4 to 3. 

VIII. Spadille, manille, three, four, five, and six of clubs, 
two small diamonds, and two small hearts. Loses 1514 to 
1125, or about 4 to 3. 

IX. Spadille, manille, three, four, and five of clubs, king, 
and one small diamond, and three small hearts. Loses 2234 
to 405, or about 11 to 2. 

X. Three false matadores and three of clubs, king and six 
of diamonds, king and six of hearts, king and six of spades. 
Wins 215 to 162, or about 4 to 3. 

XI. Three false matadores, three and four of clubs, king 
and six of diamonds, king, six and five of hearts. Wins 291 
to 86, or above 10 to 3. 

XII. Three false matadores, three, four and five of clubs, 

237 



QUADRILLE. 

king, and six of diamonds, two small hearts. Wins 1025 to 
108, or near 10 to 1. 

XIII. Manille, basto, queen, three, four and five of clubs, 
king and one small diamond, two small hearts. Wins 4895 
to 3022, or above 8 to 5. 

XIV. Manille, basto, knave, three, four and five of clubs, 
king, and one small diamond, two small hearts. Loses 4162 
to 3755, or almost 10 to 9. 

XV. Spadille, three, four, five, and six of clubs, king and 
one small diamond, king of spades, king and one small heart. 
Lead a small trump, and the chance for winning is 1749 to 
890; or near 2 to 1. 

XVI. Spadille, three, four, five, six and seven of clubs, 
king, and one diamond, king of spades and king of hearts. 
Wins about 275 to 2. 

XVII. Manille, king, queen, two small spades or clubs, 
king, and a small heart, queen, knave, and one small dia- 
mond. 

XVIII. Manille, king, knave, two small spades, or clubs, 
king and a small heart, queen and two small diamonds. 

XIX. Basto, king, queen, two small spades or clubs, queen 
and two small hearts, king and a small diamond. 

XX. Basto, king, knave, two small clubs or spades, king 
and queen of diamonds, queen and two small hearts. 

Games in red, Elder Hand. 

I. Three matadores in hearts, king and one diamond, king 
and one spade, king and two clubs. Wins 24 to 11, or about 
2 to 1. 

II. Three matadores and three of hearts, king and one 
small diamond, king and queen of clubs, and two small 
spades. Wins 7010 to 1661, above 4 to 1; besides the 
chance that his kings and queen pass, though he should not 
fetch out all the trumps. 

III. Three matadores and three and four of hearts, king 
and one small club, three diamonds. Wins almost 4 to 3. 

IV. Three matadores, three, four and five of hearts, two 
umall diamonds, two small clubs. Wins 291 to 80, or above 
10 to 3. 

V. Spadille manille, punto, queen, three and four of hearts, 
238 



ODDS OF WINNING AT QUADRILLE. 

two small diamonds, and two small clubs. Loses 1706 to 
1339, or above 5 to 4. 

VI. Spadille, manille, punto, three, four and five of hearts, 
two small diamonds, two small clubs. Loses 1514 to 1125, 
or above 4 to 3. 

VII. Spadille, manille, king, three, four and five of hearts, 
two small diamonds, two small clubs. Loses 278 to 99, or 
about 14 to 5. 

VIII. Spadille, manille, three, four, five and six of hearts, 
two small diamonds, two small clubs. Loses above 3 to 1. 

IX. Spadille, manille, three, four, five and six of hearts, 
king and one club, two small diamonds. Wins 1845 to 794, 
or above 9 to 4. 

X. Spadille, manille, two, three, four, five, six of hearts, 
two small diamonds, one small club. Wins above 9 to 1, 
nearer 10 to 1. 

XL Four matadores in hearts, king and two small clubs, 
king and two small spades. Wins about 16 to 1. That he 
fetches out the trump is 7206 to 1465, near 5 to 1 ; besides 
the chance for his king's passing, though the trump should 
not fall. 

XII. Three false matadores and three of hearts, king and 
one small club, king and one diamond, king and one small 
spade. Loses 5791 to 2880, or above 2 to 1. 

XIII. Three false matadores, three and four of hearts, king 
and one club, king and two spades. Wins 215 to 162, or 
about 4 to 3. 

XIV. Three false matadores, three, four and five of hearts, 
king and one small club, two small spades. Wins 291 to 86, 
or above 10 to 3. 

XV. Three false matadores, with the knave, the three, 
four and five of hearts, one small diamond, two small spades. 
Wins 1025 to 106, near 10 to 1 ; provided the lead come? 
into your haod a second time, without trumping with a mata- 
dore. 

XVI. Three false matadores, with the queen, the three, 
four and five of hearts, one small diamond, two small clubs. 
(As the former) wins near 10 to 1. 

XVII. Manille, basto, king, three, four and five of hearts, 
king and one diamond, two small clubs. Loses 1514 to 1125, 
or about 4 to 3. 

239 



QUADRILLE. 

XVIII. Manille, basto, queen, three, four and five of hearts, 
king and one club, two small spades. Loses 278 to 99, or 
near 3 to 1. 

XIX. Manille, basto, three, four, five and six of hearts, 
king and one diamond, two small clubs. Loses 2639 to 405, 
or about 6 to 1. 

XX Spadille, two, three, four, five and six of hearts, king 
and one diamond, king of spades, and the king of clubs. That 
spadille fetches out three trumps, is above 4 to 1, and conse- 
quently above 4 to 1 for winning. 

XXI. Spadille, three, four, five and six of hearts, king and 
one diamond, king and one spade, and the king of clubs. 

That three sure tricks in trumps lie against the player is 
1384 to 1255, and consequently the odds is against his win- 
ning the game. 

If he plays the game, he must begin with leading a small 
trump ; for if he plays spadille, he has no chance at all. 

At his second lead he ought to play spadille, having the 
fairest probability of winning the game by that method of 
play. 

In all the games of false matadores, we have supposed the 
player is not over-ruffed or trumped before the lead comes 
agafh into his hand. 

N. B. If you should have a sans prendre game, and it 
should be 5 to 4 for winning it, you are to consider that the 
calling a king makes it a sure game won, besides the chance 
of winning a vole ; and therefore, upon a strict calculation, it 
is found to be more advisable to call a king in such a case. 

N. B. A good player may play a weaker game, either elder 
or younger hand, than middle hand. 

LAWS AT QUADRILLE. 

I. Whoever names any suit for trumps, he must abide by 
it, though it should happen to be his worst suit. 

II. If a card happens to be faced in dealing, you must 
deal again, except it is the last card. 

III. If you play with eleven cards you are basted. 

IV. If you play sans prendre, or have matadores, you arc 
to demand them before the next dealer has finished his deal, 
otherwise you lose the benefit of them. 

240 



LAWS AT QUADRILLE. 

V. If any body names his trump without asking leave, he 
is obliged to play sans prendre, unless he is the younger hand, 
and all the rest have passed. 

VI. If any body plays out of his turn, that card played 
may be called at any time in that deal, provided he does not 
revoke ; or the adversaries may demand the partner of him, 
who played out of his turn, or his own partner, to play any 
suit he thinks fit. 

VII. After the game is won, if the person who won the 
sixth trick plays the seventh card, he is obliged to play for 
the vole. 

VIII. If you have four kings dealt you, you are at liberty 
either to call a queen to one of your kings, or to call one of 
your kings ; but you are not to call the queen of trumps. 

IX. If any body separates a card from the rest, he ought 
to play it, if the adverse party has seen it, unless he plays 
sans prendre. 

X. If the king called, or his partner plays out of his turn, 
no vole is to be played for. 

XI. No person is to be basted for a renounce, unless the 
trick is turned and quitted j and if any person renounces, and 
it is discovered, if the player should happen to be basted by 
such renounce, all the parties are to take up their cards, and 
play them over again. 

XII. Forced spadille is not obliged to make three tricks, 
nor is allowed to play for the vole. 

XIII. Whoever undertakes playing the vole, has the pre- 
ference of playing before him who offers to play sans prendre. 

XIV. If all parties agree to it, before you begin to play, 
let the person have the preference of playing who plays for 
the most tricks ; which will prevent small games from being 
played. 

XV. The ombre is entitled to know his king called, before 
he declares for the vole. 

XVI. When six tricks are won, he who won the sixth trick 
ought to say, I play the vole ; or I do not play the vole ; or. 
I ask — and nothing else. 

XVII. He who wins the vole is to take double the stake 
played for out of the pool. 

XVIII. He who asks leave (if elder hand) may play sans 
prendre, in preference to any of the other layers. 

22 241 



QUADRILLE. 

XIX. If you have one king only, y^u may call yourself, 
but must win six tricks. 

XX. If you play the king surrendered, he must win six 
tricks who demands the king of any person. 

XXI. He who has passed once, (unless he has spadille) has 
no right to call afterwards ; also, he who has asked is obliged 
to play, unless somebody else plays sans prendre. 

XXII. If the ombre, or his friend, show their cards before 
they hare won six tricks, the adversaries may call their cards 
as they please, specifying each card. 

XXIII. Whoever has only asked leave, cannot play sans 
prendre, unless he is forced. 

XXIV. You are at liberty to look at all the tricks turned, 
when you are to lead, but not otherwise. 

XXV. Whoever undertakes playing for the vole, and does 
not succeed, has a right to the stakes sans prendre, and mata- 
dores if he has then, having won his game. 

XXVI. If any person discovers his game, he is not enti- 
tled to play for the vole. 

XXVII. If there happen to be two cards of the same sort, 
and found out before the deal is ended, the deal is void, but 
not otherwise. 

XXVIII. No body is to declare how many trumps are 
played out. 

XXIX. He who calls, and does not make three tricks, is 
to be basted alone, unless he plays forced spadille. 

ADDITIONS TO THE GAME AT QUADRILLE. 

In order to vary this game, some introduce the Mediateur, 
either with or without the Favourite suit ; the first term sig- 
nifies a king, which any person may demand in order to play 
sans prendre, giving in return some other card and a fish \ but 
if the king is of the favourite suit, then two fish are to be 
paid. The favourite suit is determined either by drawing a 
card, or otherwise fixing upon a suit at the commencement of 
the party; and during the whole game, each player, asking 
leave in that, has a preference before others who have a good 
hand in a different suit, unless a mediateur is demanded, then 
it takes the lead ; and if in the favourite suit, first ; those 
who play alone, without the mediateur, precede even that, 
and, when in the favourite, take place of all. 
242 



REWARDS AT PREFERENCE. 

Solitaire quadrille is where it is agreed not to call, but 
always play sans prendre, with or without the mediateur ; and 
if in any deal no one can play alone, then the cards are to be 
dealt again, and such additions made to the stake as may 
have been settled. 

Solitaire quadrille by three, or tredille, is excepting the 
king, throwing out all of one red suit, and the six of the 
other ; each person playing on their own account, as at three- 
handed whist. 



In Lancashire, where this game is very much in vogue, it is 
eustomary to play with a purchased king, and preferable suit 
(always hearts) in a manner similar to what is styled the 
Mediateur and Favourite suit, as may be fully perceived by 
the following table of 

REWARDS AT PREFERENCE. 

1. An Ask-leave in a common suit : the same as at plain 
quadrille ; viz. one a piece. 

2. An Ask-leave in hearts : double from the pool, that is, 
two a piece besides the aces ; if matadores, two a piece from 
the adversaries ; double mats four a piece. 

3. A purchased kiug in a common suit : one from each 
antagonist ; mats two ; double mats three. 

4. A Purchase in hearts : two from each ; mats four; dou- 
ble mats six. 

N. B. Pay two for the purchased-king, when the suit is in 
hearts. 

5. A Solo, common suit : two from each ; mats three ; dou- 
ble mats four. 

6. A Solo in hearts : four from each ; mats six ; double 
mats eight. 

7. A Vole, common suit, with a friend : the game and five 
a piece out of the pool ; and from the adversaries two a piece ; 
if mats three ; double mats four. 

8. A Vole in hearts : the game and ten each out of the 
pool ; four a piece from the adversaries ; with mats six ; dou- 
ble mats eight. 

9. A Purchase-vole, common suit : the game aud ten out 

243 



QUADRILLE 

of the pool ; three from each adversary • mats four ; double 
mats five. 

10. A Purchase- vole in hearts : the game and twenty out 
of the pool : six a piece from the opponents ; mats eight ; 
double mats ten. 

11. A Solo-vole, common suit : the game and twenty out 
of the pool, six from each antagonist : mats seven ; double 
mats eight. 

12. A Solo-vole in hearts : the game and forty out of the 
pool; twelve from each adversary; mats fourteen; double 
mats sixteen. 

13. A Baste in hearts : pay two a piece to the board, and 
put four more out of the pool ; if the next game be in hearts, 
take double out of the pool, but if in common suit, only what 
lies upon the table, excepting the aces ; always pay double to 
a baste if it happens to be an eight board, and when basted 
with a friend-called, pay eight a piece, making the next a six- 
teen board ; should another baste succeed, pay thirty-two, and 
the next sixty-four. 

N. B. In common suits never take any more than what lies 
on the table, excepting the aces, nor pay more for a baste, 
unless in hearts, and then in that suit always pay and receive 
doable. 

A Baste off the board is always paid out of the pool ; if in 
playing alone you are basted off upon an eight or sixteen 
board, the adversaries are to receive four or eight a piece, 
and so on in proportion to the baste upon the table ; but if 
in hearts double. 

A Lost-vole in hearts : pay four to each adversary. 

A Lost-vole with mats : four, that is, two to the two the 
adversaries should otherwise pay you. 

A Lost-vole with double mats : the four to be returned you 
were to have received. » 

Quadrille is in fact ombre, played by four persons. The 
latter being now obsolete, it is not our design to Apeak of it 
practically. 



244 



ECARTE. 

The following treatise, for which we are indebted to the 
kindness of the Author, was written ten years ago ; in the 
first instance merely for the use of a circle of friends among 
whom he was at the time residing, and by whom the game 
was frequently played. A long residence on the Continent, 
where it was in very general esteem, and a personal aptitude 
for games of calculation, peculiarly fitted him for the self- 
imposed task. The spirit and style of his essay are evidences 
that it is the production of one on the best of terms with his 
subject, and by no means without confidence in himself. 
" For convenience of reference," as he tells us, w it is divided 
into parts. The first Part lays down clear and concise Rules 
for the Game, as played and acknowledged by the i Academie 
de Paris/ 

" The Second Part relates to the probabilities of chances, 
with tables for calculating the relative value of any card. 
The reader by studying these tables, which are extremely 
simple, may acquire, in a short period, a scientific method of 
play. 

" The Third Part gives some examples of difficult games, 
and the method of playing them : by an attention to which 
the reader may get an insight into the ' niceties of Ecarte. 
There are a few passages marked, which refer to rules neces- 
sary to be observed when playing with Foreigners ; but 
which scarcely apply to the game as played in our clubs and 
drawing-rooms. Further notice will be taken of this pecu- 
liarity. 

" The Author confidently offers this little treatise to the 
public as a safe guide — long experience of the game having 
made him acquainted with all its mysteries. Said a worldly 
Parisian to his son, whom he discovered lamenting over an 
empty purse, l My son, until you have four eyes in your head, 
risk not your gold at Ecarte/ — The Author has but one bet- 
ter counsel to offer — 

'PLAY NOT AT ALL !' " 

22* 245 



ECARTE. 



PART I. — ON THE RULES. 



Of all Gumes of Commerce, the most fashionable at this 
moment is Ecarte ; yet, strange to say, we have never yet been 
furnished with a complete Treatise on its Rules — still less has 
any writer indicated the method of playing, or explained its 
niceties and different combinations.* Hence was the atuhor 
determined to compile a Treatise, in which should be laved 
down, not only the rules recognized and adopted by the clubs, 
but also be pointed out, how to detect and punish the different 
errors which might be committed in the course of the rubber. 

It became necessary to give an example of the ordinary 
games, and the manner of playing them ; hence he has added 
to this Treatise directions how the cards ought to be played 
in different games, whether witlua view to win points, or to 
avoid losing them, — taking for his basis, every probable com- 
bination which the doctrine of chances presents in a game 
3omposed of thirty -two cards. 

OX THE GAME OF ECARTE. 

1. Ecarte is played by two persons, with a pack or game of 
thirty-two cards, — the deuce, three, four, five, and six of each 
suit being discarded. 

2. Five points scored are game, — unless there be any mu- 
tual agreement to the contrary. 

3. The score is always marked on the side of the stakes. 

4. The money, whether stakes or bets is always put on the 
table. 

5. Whoever wins three tricks, scores one point : whoever 
wins all the tricks, scores two. This is called in French, 
making the "vole." 

6. Only two points can be scored in a single deal, unless 
one of the parties hold or turn up the king. 

7. It may be either played in games or rubbers. A rub- 
ber consists in winning two games out of three. 

* No person really understanding cards will aver that there is "no play 
in Ecarte." This Lb a silly sophistry, arising from the false data that it ia 
easier to manage five cards than thirteen ; and a person acting on this prin 
ciple will soon find his mistake to his co-t. 

246 



ECARTE. 

8. The winner cannot refuse giving "a revenge ;" the loser 
is not obliged to accept it. 

9. It is usual to have two packs of cards, used alterna- 
tively : to prevent mixing them, the backs of one are gen- 
erally dotted or coloured : the latter method is preferable. 

10. The king is the highest card : the ace ranks next after 
the knave. 

ON CUTTING, AND CUTTING FOR DEAL. 

1. First see who is eldest hand : at this game the eldest 
hand deals : there is a slight advantage in dealing, because 
the king turned up, scores a point, as we shall see presently. 

2. Many players imagine it is as advantageous to be 
younger, as elder hand ; in other words, as advantageous to 
play first, as to be played up to;* they are in error, — for it is 
only 7 to 1 against the king being turned up and it is more 
than 7 to 1 against the first player making the point, from 
the sole reason that he is first player, i. e., with cards which 
win because he is first, and which would lose were he last. 

3. Another advantage in dealing is, that if the first to play 
(younger hand) proposes, the dealer presumes that his adver- 
sary has a weak hand, and can profit by this knowledge by 
refusing to give cards, whilst the younger hand, playing with- 
out throwing out, (ecarte, signifies " thrown out/') can have 
no clue to the strength of the dealer's cards. 

4. The eldest hand has choice of cards : this choice once 
made must last throughout the game, unless fresh cards be 
called for, which is allowable. 

5. The deal is decided by cutting into the pack and show- 
ing the last card of the cut ; highest deals. 

6. If in cutting for deal, several cards are shown, the low- 
est of those turned up is accounted the cut. 

7. Whoever neglects to show his cut, is supposed to have 
the cut low est of all. 

8. The cut holds good, even if the pack be incomplete. 

* As in Ecart4 the eldest deals, and consequently plays last, (contrary to 
the usual mode,) to avoid the confusion which the terms " elder hand" and 
"younger hand" would make, the two players are throughout this work 
called the one " dealer," the other " player," — the latter designating him 
Kho leads the first card. 

247 



ECARTE. 



9. When a pack of cards is discovered to be incorrect, all 
preceding deals — even that in which the discovery is made, 
provided the deal be already played out — hold good. 

10. A cut must consist of more than one card. 



ON DEALING. 

1. The cards are dealt by two and three, or by three and two. 
Five are given to each player, and the eleventh is turned up. 

2. The turned up card indicates the suit of the trumps. 

3. A trump is superior to every other card of a different suit. 

4. When once the cards are dealt by two and three, or by 
three and two, this order cannot be changed during the game, 
unless by giving notice to the adversary previously to his cut- 
ting. 

5. If this order of dealing should be changed, the adversary 
a right to call a fresh deal, provided he has not seen his 

hand. Once, however, the hand seen, the deal holds good. 

6. The residue of the pack (Fr. talon) is placed on the right 
of the dealer, and the ecart (or cards rejected) on the left, 
both to avoid confusion, and to show, if forgotten, which 
party was dealer. 

7. The dealer ought always to shuffle the cards, and the 
adversary always cutj but the latter is entitled to shuffle also 
before cutting, and the dealer to re-shuffle afresh, or to pre- 
sent the pack for the cut without re-shuffle, or to call for fresh 
cards. 

8. It is allowable to shuffle the cards each time they are 
presented for cutting, but not to do so twice following in the 
same deal. 

9. The party receiving cards plays first. 

10. The king counts as one point in favor of the person 
either turning it up or holding it. 

[Note. The following rule is important, and ought to be read with atten 
tion, as an ignorance of it gives rise to frequent discussions.] 

14. It is not sufficient that the holder of the king mark it ; 
he ought to distinctly announce " that he has the king." If 
the holder is also " the player," he ought to make this an- 
nouncement before he leads his first card, except when he 
plays king first, and in that case it is allowable to announce 
it after it is on the table, but before it is covered by the ad 
848 



ON DEALING. 

versary's card. This rule is only applicable to tLe younger 
hand (or first to play,) the second to play (or eldest hand) 
should invariably announce the king just before covering his 
adversary's first card, otherwise he cannot score it ; for his 
own interest he ought not to announce it until just after the 
opponent's first card is played. 

12. When a player deals out of his turn, and the error is 
perceived before the trump is turned up, there is a fresh deal 
by the proper dealer ; if the trump is turned up, the deal is 
put aside, and is a good deal for the next time ; if the error 
is only perceived after the hand is played, the deal holds 
good, since the fault lies between the two players, the one in 
having dealt, the other in having allowed the deal. 

13. A player who plays before his turn is only obliged to 
take baok his card; if however it is covered, the coup (or 
trick) is good, this fault also being committed through the 
negligence of both players. 

14. When the player is not satisfied with his hand, he pro- 
poses to take other cards, saying " I throw out/' or " I pro- 
pose " (usually however the French terms are adopted in this 
game, "J'ecarte" or "Je propose ,*") the dealer accepts or re- 
fuses, according to whether satisfied or not with what he 
holds ; if he accept, he gives as many cards as Lh adversary 
requires, and then serves himself with as many as he may want. 

15. Whoever plays without changing cards, or whoever 
refuses to change cards, looses two points if he make not 
three tricks; and making them, scores but one. 

16. When a proposition is once made or refused, there can 
be no retracting ; also, when once a certain number of cards 
are asked for, that number can neither be diminished nor in- 
creased. 

17. If after the second time of giving cards, the player 
still wishes to propose, he has the power of so doing ; like- 
wise after the third, and so on until the pack is exhausted ; 
but the dealer in refusing, no longer loses two points if he 
does not make three tricks. 

18. When after having changed (or ecarte'd) several times, 
the player proposes again, without paying attention as to 
whether sufficient cards remain or not, and that the dealer 
inconsiderately accepts, the former takes as many cards as he 
needs ; so much the worse for the latter if there remain not 

249 



ECARTE. 

sufficient for him, or even none at all — as he dealt, it was hia 
duty to pay proper attention ; in this case he keeps his own 
hand and if he has already ecarte'd, takes at hazard, from the 
cards thrown out, the necessary number to complete his hand. 

OF FAULTS IN GENERAL. 

1. Each player previously to receiving fresh cards, puts his 
ecart (or those he rejects) on one side, and once this ecart 
made can no longer touch it. Should either happen to look 
at the rejected cards, even his own, not only is it forbidden 
to retake them, were they even trumps, but he is obliged to 
play with his cards on the table, being supposed to have cog- 
nizance of his adversary's ecart 

[Note. The following rules (2 and 3) apply to Foreigners, who are often 
vociferous in their play, calling out the suit of the card before they throw 
it on the table. To our quiet and gentlemanly English habits, this rule 
can never be but a dead letter. But as many who read this little treatise 
may perhaps either play with Foreigners abroad or at home, I insert the 
rule, in order that they may not fall into the very commonly laid trap of a 
false card being called.] 

2. It is obligatory to play the colour announced : thus any 
one calling "club," and playing spade or any other suit, is 
obliged, if the adversary desire, to retake his card and to play 
the suit announced ; if he has none the adversary can call a 
suit. 

3. If, however, the adversary deem the card played more 
favorable to him than the suit announced, he has the right to 
hinder its being taken back. 

4. Whichever from mistake, or otherwise, announces " the 
king," and has it not, loses one point independently of the 
result of that coup or deal : that is to say, instead of mark- 
ing the king thus falsely announced, the adversary marks it 
unless the mistake is declared previously to a card being 
played. It easy to see the necessity of this forfeit, since a 
ruse of this nature might cause the other party to lose the 
point or miss the vole, from not daring to lead trumps, think- 
ing the king to be in his adversary's hand. 

[Note. Although the following is the rule, it is seldom attended to, m 
players generally omit to take up their tricks.] 

250 



DN REVOKING OR UNDER-FORCING. 

5. It is not allowable to look at the adversary's tricks, undei 
pain of playing with cards on table. 

6. Whichever through error, or purposely, throws his cardf 
on the table, loses one point, if he have already made a 
trick, and two points if he has not. 

7. The cards are considered as thrown on the table, if being 
embarrassed to keep a suit, a player lowers them so as to show 
them to his adversary j since it is possible by this movement, 
to make him believe that the coup is abandoned, and induce 
him to show his cards also. 

8. A player who quits the game, loses it. 

9. If a faced card is found in the pack, and it is perceived 
in dealing, the deal is null, except when the faced card hap- 
pens to be the eleventh, because in that case there is no 
interference with its destiny, which was " to have been turned 
up." 

10. If it be only detected after the ecart, and the faced 
card falls to the party receiving cards, he may either keep it, 
or begin the deal afresh, and take the deal, the fault lying 
with the dealer, it being possible to have been committed 
purposely, with a fraudulent intention, by an unscrupulous 
player. 

11. If the faced card fall (after the ecart) to the dealer, 
the deal holds good ; equally good is it should the faced card 
remain unperceived till both players have finished taking in 
cards. 

ON REVOKING OR UNDER-FORCING. 

1. It is forbidden to either revoke or under-force (sous- 
force?*). This term means the answering a card with one of 
the same suit, but inferior value to those remaining in hand ; 
for instance — putting the nine of clubs on the ten, having the 
ace in hand. 

2. When a player revokes or underforces, he is obliged to 
retake his card, and the hand is played over again ; but a 
player committing this fault does not score if he make the 
point, and only scores one if he make the vole. 

[Note. Some persons imagine that there is nothing gained by sub-forcing, 
and that they are only obliged to withdraw their card, and take with a 
stronger, without punishment; they are wrong, — for there aro games which 
are lost because of this necessity of taking, and games which might be won 
if this practice were allowed.] 

251 



ECARTE. 



ON BETS. 



1. It is allowed to bet on either player, and the betters 
have the right of advising j but their advice, and what they 
say, is counted for nothing by the adversary, so long as the 
player has not spoken : — thus, if a better calls " the king," 
and the player has not announced it before playing his card, 
he no longer has the right to score it, save in the case already 
cited in the chapter on " Dealing." 

2. The players have the privilege of taking all bets on the 
opposite side, in preference to the gallery, which can only take 
the amount of what the player has declined to cover. 

[Note. The gallery is a technical term, used for all except the two 
plaj'ers.J 

3. It is forbidden to look over the hand of the party betted 
against. 

4. The betters have no right to speak about the hand of 
their " partners" (or player whom they back), and when they 
advise, they ought to point at the card to be played or kept, 
but they ought neither to name the card nor its suit. 

5. Bets can be made on the rubber, the game, and the 
point ; also when either or both players are at the two, three, 
or four first points ; on the king and the queen of trumps ; or 
on the suit of the trump. 

6. The gallery has a right to give notice of all errors which 
would be frauds, could it be supposed they were done inten- 
tionally : — for example, if a player scored a point too many, 
or took tricks not belonging to him 

7. We have said further back, that a player who quits the 
game loses it j but in this case, one of the betters is obliged 
by his own interest, and that of the others, to take the vacant 
seat and finish the game. 

8 At the end of each game the winning player first takes 
whatever is due to him, and then divides the remainder 
amongst the betters, giving to each his due, without however 
being responsible for errors which may result from the inex- 
actitude of the accounts; the deficit (if any) must bo borne 
by the betters amongst them. 
252 



ON MIS-DEALING THE ENTIRE HAND. 



ON MIS-DEALING. 

1. When the dealer turns up two or more cards instead of 
one, the player has the right to pick out that which ought to 
be the trump ; or to put aside the cards thus exposed and 
take the next remaining on the pack for trump ; or to recom- 
mence the hand, taking the deal ; but he has only this last 
choice provided he has not seen his hand. 

2. When the dealer shows or turns up one or more cards 
of his adversary's hand, he must finish dealing, and the 
adversary has then the choice of recommencing the hand, 
taking the deal, or counting the deal good. 

3. If the cards exposed belong to the dealer, neither party 
has the choice of recommencing the deal, the fault being pre- 
judicial to the dealer who has chosen his cards, and advanta- 
geous to the player who has seen them. 

4. If, however, this happen after the ecart (or change,) the 
party who has exposed the cards can only require another or 
others, but cannot recommence the deal. 

5. If the dealer after changing, turn up a card as if he 
were turning up the trump at the beginning of the hand, he 
can neither refuse a fresh change to his adversary, nor to give 
him the card thus turned up. 

ON MIS-DEALING THE ENTIRE HAND. 

[Note. The entire hand (called in French D'Embl^e), is the first hand 
deait by each dealer; when five cards are given to each party and on« 
turned up, making the full number of eleven.] 

1. If the dealer gives one or more cards too many, the 
player has the right either to look at his hand and throw out 
the supernumerary cards, first showing them ro the dealer, or 
to recommence the hand, taking to himself tho deal. 

2. If he has given too few, the player has the right to take 
the number wanting from the talon or residue of the pack, 
without however changing the trump; or to recommence, 
taking the deal. 

3. If, on the contrary, the dealer has dealt himself too 
many cards, the adversary has a right either to pick out at 
hazard the supernumerary cards, or to recommence the hand, 
taking the deal. 

23 253 



ECARTE. 

4. If the dealer deals himself too few cards, the adversary 
has a right either to make him take the number wanting from 
the talon ; or recommence the hand, taking the deal. 

5. If one of the two players, having too many, or too few. 
cards, should ecart without giving notice to his adversary, and 
if the latter should perceive it, either from counting the cards 
thrown out, or in any other way, the player who thus makes 
a false ecarte, loses two points, and the right of marking the 
king, even if he had turned it up. 

ON MIS-DEALING AFTER CHANGING CARDS. 

1. If the dealer gives more or less cards than asked for, tie 
loses the point and the right of marking the king if he has 
it in his hand, but not if he has turned it up, the turn up 
being anterior to the mis-deal. 

2. If the dealer deals himself more cards than he has 
thrown out, he loses the point and the right of* marking the 
king if he has it in his hand. 

3. If he deals himself fewer, he completes his hand from 
the first cards of the talon, since they are his by right. 

4. If he only perceives it when he has played, the player 
counts as tricks those cards which cannot be covered. 

5. If, however, the fault is not the dealer's, as in the case 
where the player has asked for more or less cards than he has 
thrown out, then the player loses one point and the right of 
marking the king. But if he has too few cards he may mark 
it, for the simple reason, that holding the king with too few 
cards, he would of course have equally held it, if he had asked 
fer his proper number. 

6. Whichever (after having changed cards) holds more 
than five, loses a point, and the right to score the king. 

7. Any case not mentioned in this treatise, ought always 
to be decided against the player who commits the fault. 

There only now remains to treat of the principles of the 
game, the manner of playing it, its niceties or finesses, its 
combinations, and the advantages to be derived from a know- 
ledge of these points. 
254 



ON THE PRINCIPLES 



PART II.— -ON THE PRINCIPLES. 

All Games of Hazard are subject to an analysis founded 
on mathematical principles. 

Many calculators have exercised their talents in analyzing 
different games, but not one has entered into any details on 
the game of Ecarte, either because it is but lately in fashion, 
or because it has not attracted their attention. 

The following are the fundamental principles of this 
game : — 

1. As five cards are dealt to each, and one turned up, it is 
evident that a player after having looked at his hand, has a 
knowledge of six cards, and that there remain twenty-six 
unknown to him, viz., — twenty-one in the talon, and five in 
his adversary's hand, making altogether thirty-two, of which 
number the pack is composed. 

2. It is then on the six known, and the twenty-six unknown 
cards, that he must reason, and base his calculations. 

For example : — if in the six known cards there are two of 
the same colour turned up, (or trumps,) there remain six 
trumps in the twenty-six unknown. 

Hence — if in the twenty-six unknown, there are six trumps, 
or rather less than a quarter, it is probable that in the adver- 
sary's five cards there is, at most, but one trump, since one 
is also a trifle less than the quarter of five. 

This principle is the basis of all ; from it arise all others ; 
and in order to place it in a more obvious light, and more 
copious in consequences, we have given in the following table, 
the number of the principal combinations of twenty-six cards, 
calculated mathematically. 

Twenty six cards can form 65,780 combinations of five 
cards, — or in other words, 65,780 different hands of five cards 
each. 



255 



ECART8. 







I 

IF IX THE SIX KXOWS CARDS 




there 

is not 

one 

club. 


there 
is one 
club. 


there 
are 
two 

clubs. 


there 

are 

three 

clubs. 


there 

are 

four 

clubs. 


there 

are 

five 
clubs. 


there 
are six 
clubs. 


The science of com- 
binations teaches 
that the number of 
hands of five cards, 
which will be with- 
out a club, in the 
twenty - six un- 
known cards, is . . .^ 


> 


8568 

24480 

22848 

8568 

1260 

5G 


11628 

27132 

20349 

5985 

665 

21 


15504 

29070 

17100 

3800 

300 

6 


20349 

29925 

13300 

210€ 

105 

1 


r = r 
26334 
p 73 e 

29260 

9240 

924 

22 


- a = 
33649 

3 P P 

26565 

5313 

253 


= = e 
42504 
- s = 

21252 
2024 

..... 


With three clubs 
With four clubs 


Total • 


• 


65780 


65780 


65780 


65780 j 65780 | 65780 j 65780 

ill! 



To point out the method of using this table, — suppose the 
player has but one club in the hand first dealt him, and that 
the trump card is also a club, making two known clubs, and 
that it is desired to ascertain what are the chances of proba- 
bility which can also give two or more to the adversary. 

It will be seen in the third column, that of the 65,780 hands 
which the twenty-six unknown cards can form, there are — 

Without one club 15.504 

With one club 29,070 



Total of hands which have not two clubs 



Hands with two clubs 17,100 

" three clubs 3,800 

" four clubs 300 

" five clubs 6 



44,574 



Total of hands which have two or more clubs 21,206 



Total of hands which twenty-six cards can form 65,780 

From these combinations we may draw the conclusion that 
a player can risk with probability of success, a first hand, 
(called in French " unjeu cfemblee." being the first five cardi 
256 * 



PRINCIPLES OP ECARTE. 



dealt previously to changing, and which, for brevity's sake, 
we shall denominate a first hand,) which ought to win the 
point if it does not encounter two trumps in that of his ad- 
versary, (such as will be seen in the paragraph which treats 
of the " Jeux de Regies" see p. 247) since the odds are 
44,574 against 21,206, or reduced to simple terms, a little 
more than 2 to 1 that two clubs will not be found in the ad- 
versary's first hand. 

The kings being superior cards, and that turned up of 
double importance, (as the king gives one point, moreover as 
a trump taking all other trumps,) it is an interesting enquiry, 
how many, according to the doctrine of chances, there are 
likely to be in the adversary's hand after the cards have been 
distributed to each of the players, and the trump ascertained. 

To resolve this question we have compiled the following 
table. 



The number of hands } 
without a king in the > 
26 unknown cards is . . ) 


IF IX THE SIX KNOWN CARDS 


there is 

not one 

king. 


there is 
one 
king. 


there 
are 
two 

kings. 


there 

are 

three 

kings. 


■ 

there 

are 

four 

kings. 


26334 

29260 

9240 

924 

22 


33649 

26565 

5313 

253 


42504 

21252 
2024 


53130 
12650 


65780 




Total 


65780 


65780 


65780 


76780 


65780 





Hence — if there were one king in the six known cards, it 
would be seen in the second column that in 65,780 different 
hands which the adversary can have, there will be 33,649, 
that is to say, more than half, which are without kings, and 
consequently, it is probably that he has no king in his hand 

This rule about kings, applies also to queens, knaves, Arc. 

This same table serves to ascertain the probability of find- 
ing the king of trumps in the adversary's hand ; it is suffi- 
cient to glance down the fourth column where it is seen that 
when one king only fixes the attention, there are 12,650 games 
that contain it, and that there are 53,130 which do not. 

25* 257 






ECARTE. 

Consequently the odds are 53,130 against 12,650, or in 
simple terms, 21 against 5, that the adversary has not the 
king of trumps, first hand. 

It will perhaps be noticed that the three first columns of 
the last table, are the same as the three last of the preceding 
table ; this arises from the circumstance that when there are 
four, five, or six clubs known, and that there consequently 
remain four, three, or two, in the twenty-six unknown cards, 
the case as to the probability of finding four clubs is exactly 
similar to that of finding four kings. 

We will not swell this little work with more tables. 
Volumes migb*. be written, and it would be easy to lose one- 
self in endless calculations ; we must leave to players the 
task of appreciating those principles by practice, without a 
further demand on their memory and attention. 

PART III. — ON THE METHOD OP PLAYING. 
GENERAL RULES. 

When a player holds (comprising the king of trumps) three 
cards which ensure the point, he ought always to propose, if 
the two remaining cards are not sufficiently strong to give 
reasonable expectation of the vole. It is even good play to 
propose, were it only for one card, in order to hazard receiv- 
ing a refusal, or to make the vole if the proposal is accepted, 
and there should be five cards in the rentree (or take in). 

When a player has hopes of making the vole, and the adver- 
sary cannot answer a lead of trumps, it is better to play a king 
if single, than to continue trump ; because the system of the 
game being to play double cards (i. e. two or more of a suit,) 
if the adversary is dubious which to retain, he will by prefer- 
ence keep the suit in which he was attacked. If the player is 
engaged with an adversary who is acquainted with this rw.se, 
it may be still advantageous to act in a similar manner, but in 
an inverse sense ; that is to say, equally play the king, although 
guarded, before continuing trump, because imagining that it 
is done to induce him to keep the suit of the king already 
played, he will part with it more readily than any other suit. 

When a player expects to make the vole, and has not trumps 
sufficiently strong to begin by playing them, he must be care- 
ful to keep changing his suit in order not to be roughed, and 
258 



METHOD OP PLAYING. 

to be able to make a trump, whatever it may be, at the fourth 
card after having secured the point. 

When a player has made two tricks, and remains with the 
queen of trumps and two small ones, knowing the king to be 
in the adversary's hand, he ought to lead with one of the small 
trumps, and wait with the queen guarded. Nothing could 
prevent his making the odd trick even against king third. 

When there is a fear lest the adversary should make the 
vole, and the player has but one trump and four weak cards, 
without any hope of making the point, he must play his 
strongest single card, in order to get a chance of employing 
his trump in case the suit of his single card should be lead up 
to him. 

When the game is three against four, and the player who 

is at four makes his adversary play, or plays himself without 

changing, the one who is at three, if he have the king, would 

do well not to announce it, in order to draw his antagonist into 

the error of leading trump to pass his good cards, and be taken 

by the king which he did not expect, thus losing the point 

which he would perhaps have won, had he known that the 

king was in the adversary's hand : in this case it is the less 

consequence for the player who is at three to announce his 

king and mark it, inasmuch as he gains two points, that is, — 

the game, if he make three tricks; his adversary having 

played, or forced him to play, without changing. 

[Note. To pass a card, means to lead it and make a trick with it, with- 
out its being taken by a higher of the same suit or roughed. By some 
writers this latter word is spelt " ruffed," — but we think erroneously.] 

HANDS TO BE PLAYED WITHOUT CHANGING ; AND METHOD 
OP PLAYING THEM. 

These are termed "Jeux de Regies." No hand ought to be 
played without changing, excepting when the odds are 2 to 1 
that the player make three tricks, for the risk is 2 to 1 against 
him if he do not make them, excepting the cases where the 
adversary is at four, because as he then wants but one point 
to win, the risk is no longer 2 to 1, and by playing without 
a change the chance of giving him the king is avoided. 

On this principle all "Jeux de Regies" are played without 
changing (although there be a few which can scarcely reckon 
in their favor 2 to 1.) 

The following are "Jeux de Regies:" — all those hands which 

259 



ECABTE. 

cannot fail making three tricks, except from finding two 
trumps (first hand) in the adversary's hand. 

Example 1st. — A has one trump, no matter how small; a 
tierce major, and a small card of either remaining suit; the 
odds are more than 2 to 1 that he wins the point ; — the pro- 
bability is demonstrated in the first table. 

Method of playing. — Begin with the king of the tierce, and 
continue the suit, if not roughed, until you are roughed ; if 
it happens at the second card, your trump will bring you back 
to your suit, and enable you to make the third trick 

Example 2nd. — Two trumps, — a queen second, and a small 
card. This hand ought always to be risked by the player, 
although the odds are scarcely 2 to 1. 

Method of playing. — If the trumps are small, begin by play- 
ing the single card, being certain if it is taken, the adversary 
will not return the suit, and that he will prefer playing a 
king if he has one; should it be of that suit of which you 
hold queen second, you make her, later, with the two trumps, 
supposing he has not superior ones. 

But if one of the two trumps is strong, for instance, the 
queen or the knave, you must then begin with the queen 
guarded ; because you hope if she is roughed, to regain the 
lead with one of your trumps, and then make a trick with 
your knave or queen of trumps, in order to pass the second 
card of the queen which has been roughed. 

Example 3rd. — Two trumps; a knave and ace of another 
suit ; and another knave. 

Method of playing. — Begin with the knave guarded ; if it 
passes, and the trumps are sequences, and pretty high, risk 
one ; if that makes, play the other, and then your ace, &c. 

[Note. Generally speaking, a player ought to commence with a card 
which is guarded, except when he fears the vole, or when he can only hope 
for the point by being played up to.] 

Example 4th. — Two kings, and queen second. 

Method of playing. — As necessarily one king is guarded, 
begin with this ; if it makes a trick, continue the suit ; should 
it be roughed, the chance remains of regaining the lead 
through the other king, or through the queen, and returning 
afterwards to the suit of the king first played. 

Example bth. — One trump; a king single; and a queen third. 
[Note. This is a weak hand if the player has not the lead.J 

260 



METHOD OF PLAYING. 

Method of playing. — If you have the lead, commence with 
the queen; if she passes, continue the colour; if she is 
roughed, immediately you regain the lead, again play the suit 
of the queen that has been roughed. 

Example Qth. — One trump, and king fourth. 

Method of playing. — If your trump happen to be the queen, 
play her; for the oddr are 21 to 5, that is, rather more than 
4 to 1, that the king is not in the adversary's hand; more 
than 2 to 1, that he has not two trumps; and 55,594 to 
10,186, or more than 5 to 1, that he has not two cards of the 
suit of which you hold king fourth ; but it is especially neces- 
sary when you are at three, and your adversary four, that you 
should not hesitate playing the hand in this manner. For be 
it observed, that in every other position, probabilities which 
would appear only to offer favorable chances isolatedly, pre- 
sent also the contrary when united : for, firstly, you may en- 
counter the king of trumps ; and then probably lose two 
points : you would likewise lose if you encountered two cards 
of the suit of which you hold the king ; and if the adversary 
is enabled to take, you might equally lose against an adversary 
who has no trump ; whilst by beginning with the king fourth, 
you can win against an adversary who has two trumps, if after 
having roughed, he should lead trump in order to pass a king. 

Example 1th. — Two trumps, and three cards of a suit. 

[Note. This 13 a very strong hand, and ought always to be risked by the 
player.] 

Method of playing. — Having the lead, you commence with 
the highest card of your suit ; if it is roughed, your adver- 
sary must have three trumps in order to get the point. 

Example %th. — Four court cards ; provided they be not the 
four knaves, nor the card second, the knave of trumps. 

Method of playing. — Very often the way to play this is, to 
begin with trump, even if it is single ; the order in which 
hands like this ought to be played, can scarcely be pointed 
out ; it depends on the nature of the court cards, more par- 
ticularly of that which is guarded. 

Example §th. — All hands which require only two cards to 
be thrown out. 

In this class are found those "Jeux de Regies'' of which we 
have spoken, where the odds are not 2 to 1 that they will 

261 



ECARTE. 

win the point; and yet they are played, because in two cards 
a player has much less chance of taking in advantageously, 
than has his adversary in the five which he perhaps requires, 
and amongst which he may find the king ; hence there are 
very few hands and very few cases wherein a player ought to 
change for two cards only. 

If you play with two trumps and a king unguarded, begin 
with a low card and never with a king, in order to avoid get- 
ting it roughed ; but on the contrary to be enabled to regain 
the lead with one trump, play the other to protect the king, 
and then pass it. 

Holding three trumps, especially when sequences, it is al- 
most always the game to lead trump, no matter how inferior 
they may be. 

There are so very few hands which can be reckoned more 
advantageous to be led up to, than to lead, that we will not 
mention them ; with such sort of hands, never refuse to change 
once and never accede to it a second time. 

ON HANDS WHICH WIN OR LOSE THE POINT, ACCORDING TO 
THE MANNER IN WHICH PLAYED. 

Example. — Suppose a club the trump. The dealer has ace 
of trumps, king and nine of diamonds ; knave and nine of 
spades. 

The player has queen of trumps, queen of spades, ace of 
hearts, eight and seven of diamonds. 

The right game of the player is, to lead his eight of dia- 
monds, as it is guarded by the seven ; if the dealer take with 
the nine, he ought to lose the point, and if he take with the 
king, he ought to win it ; because taking with the king, he 
intimates that he has no other diamond, and as he is certain 
that the adversary led the strongest of his suit he runs no 
risk in employing this ruse; then he plays his knave of 
spades which is also his guarded card ; the player takes with 
the queen, and then leads queen of trumps, in order to pass 
his seven of diamonds, which he imagines to be a sure card, 
the eight having brought out the king, and he loses the point ; 
whereas if the dealer, who took with the king, had taken with 
nine, the player, after having played the queen of trumps, 
would have preferred endeavouring to pass his ace of hearts, 
which had but three cards superior to it, rather than his seveD 
262 



HINTS FOR PLAYING. 

of diamonds, which had five, and he would thus have gained 
the point. 

As it is necessary to make three tricks in order to win the 
point, it often happens that after having trumped once, it is 
advisable to lead trumps, in order to pass a king, or some 
high card; — again, there are cases where this would be bad 
play, as is demonstrated by the following example : — 

Suppose a spade the trump card : — the player has the 
knave and ten of trumps ; the king of clubs ; and the king 
and ten of diamonds. The dealer has queen and nine of 
trumps ; knave and ten of hearts ; and seven of diamonds. 

Should the player not find the king of trumps in his adver- 
sary's hand, he has a game which warrants his hoping to 
make the vole : he ought then to commence by playing his 
king single, in preference to his king second ; having more 
chance of escaping the rough with it, than with that which is 
guarded ; and of being able afterwards to win a trick with a 
lead from the knave of trumps, having only to fear the queen, 
(if the dealer has not announced the king,) and endeavour to 
get the vole ; the right play therefore is, to commence with 
the king of clubs ; if the dealer trump it, adieu to all hopes 
of the vole : — there only remains to secure the point ; the 
adversary then leads the knave of hearts, which the player takes 
with his ten of trumps : and now comes the nicety ; he loses 
the point if he lead knave of trumps in order to pass his king 
of diamonds, — whereas he gains it, if he plays his king first. 
For if he lead his knave of trumps, the dealer takes it with 
the queen, and makes his second heart, whereas had he played 
his king of diamonds, it would have been answered with the 
seven : — he plays diamonds again — the ten, — the adversary 
is obliged to trump with queen, and then play his ten of 
hearts, which the player takes by roughing it with the knave 
of trumps, thus making the third trick. 

We have given one reason why it was preferable to play 
the king of clubs, rather than that which was guarded; we 
may add add another which confirms the rule, that king single 
ought to be played first ; which is, that if the adversary with 
two diamonds to the queen, and two clubs to the queen in 
hand, has any hesitation which suit to keep, he will prefer 
keeping the queen of clubs, which is his suit first attacked, 
to keeping the queen of diamonds second 

263 



ECARTE. 

Final Example. — Be particular in holding your cards well 
np, so that none can see them but yourself, for fear of any in- 
discreet exclamations on the part of the betters, — as the follow- 
ing coup u not so easy that it can be learnt by every player. 

The object is to win the point with a hand which would in- 
fallibly lose if it were played naturally, that is to say, with- 
out finesse. 

Suppose a heart the trump. The player has the king, ace, 
and ten of trumps : the king of diamonds ; and the king of 
spades. The dealer has the queen, knave, and seven of 
trumps ; the eight and seven of clubs. 

The player would feel almost sure of making the vole, if to 
his king of trumps, with which he ought to open the game, 
he sees fall the queen ; and yet this would cause him to lose 
the point, if the dealer is sufficiently adroit to throw her 
away, instead of the seven, on the king ; because the player 
would then continue leading trumps, by playing his ace, and 
the dealer take it whith his knave, and then play his eight 
of clubs, which the player would rough with his ten of 
trumps, and play one of his kings, — the dealer would rough 
this with his seven of trumps, and then pass his second club ; 
the player having no more trumps to rough with, loses the 
point; whereas had the dealer thrown the seven, instead of 
the queen of trumps on the king, the player, fearful of meet- 
ing the queen and knave of trumps accompanied by ciubs, 
would not have continued leading trumps, but played one of 
his kings, and would necessarily have won the point. 

CONCLUSION. 

It would exceed the limits of this little work to give more 
examples of hands which are susceptible of finesse; it being 
essential only to cite a few of the most remarkable, in order 
to lay down the principles ; to establish fixed and complete 
rules ; to indicate the method of playing the cards to advan- 
tage ; and to give the power, by means of a recognized code, 
of avoiding, smoothing down, or settling all the discussiona 
which continually arise in society, where this game is un- 
doubtedly very fashionable ; disputes having hitherto been 
generally decided according to the usages of localities; which 
a traveller would find to vary very much. 
264 



HINTS FOR PLAYING. 

This is the object we have aimed at; whether successfully, 
the Reader must decide. 

RULES FOR CALCULATING BETS ON ANY EVENT. 

Add together the odds for and against j divide the given 
sum : or, (as a general example,) say — £1 into as many parts 
as there are odds, and give to each party as many shares as 
he has chances. 

Example. — Odds 5 to 1 against A. — 7 to 3 against B. — 
11 to 4 against C. 

What are the odds between the field and the favourites ? — 
5-f-l = 6. Divide £1 by 6 ; tLen A's value will be one-sixth, 
or 3s. 4c?. — B's value three-tenths, or 6s. — and C's value 
four-fifteenths, or 5s. 4r/., — being altogether, 14s. 8c?. for the 
favourites, leaving 5s. 4c?. for the field ; or, reduced to frac- 
tions, 11 to 4 against the field. 

The odds, A against B, will be 3s. 4c?. to 6s. = 18 to 10, 
or 9 to 3 against A. The same rule can be applied in com- 
paring the value of any of the other odds. The odds may be 
readily computed by the following rule : — reduce the odds, in 
each case, to a vulgar fraction ; then multiply all the denomi- 
nators for a common denominator, and each numerator by all 
the denominators, except its own, for a new numerator. 

In the last case, A's value = one-sixth, B's = three- 
tenths, and C's = four-fifteenths, giving a new denominator 
of 900 : and A's numerator = 150, B's = 279, and C's = 
250 ; leaving the remainder, or 230, for the field ; or, reduced 
to 30ths, A = 5, B = 9, C = 8, and field = 8.— Total 30. 

The value which ought to be paid to cancel a bet, where 
either party has betted too high, is found as follows : — de- 
duct the value which ought to be staked, from the amount 
actually staked ; then divide the surplus stakes by the total 
odds between the parties, and the party in whose favour the 
bet stands, will be entitled to receive such a proportion of the 
surplus as is equal to his odds on the event. 

Example. — I bet 9 to 6 against C, the odds being as above. 
In this case my opponent ought to stake four-fifteenths, or 5s. 
4c?., instead of six-fifteenths, or 8s., and, consequently, he 
stakes 2s. Sd. beyond the correct amount ; and the odds in my 
favour being eleven-fifteenths, I am entitled to that proportion 
of the 2s. 8c?., or surplus amount staked, to cancel the bet. 

24 265 



ECARTE. 



VOCABULARY OP THE PRINCIPAL TEAMS USED IN PLAYING 

ECARTE. 

[Note. Those marked with an * are words which are commonly used 
even amongst English at this game ; the rest are useful to be acquainted 
with when playing with foreigners.] 

Abattre — To lower the cards and show them. 

*Atout — Trump. 

Avoir la main — The action of dealing. 

Battre — To shuffle the cards before dealing. 

Carte doublee ) m -, « ,, ., 

n n ,. ylwo cards 01 the same suit. 
ij arte Uardee j 

*Couper — To cut. 

Defausser — To refuse a suit. 

*Donner — To deal. 

*Ecart — The cards which are thrown aside. 

Etre a la devine — To be embarrassed which suit to keep. 

Faire — The same as " donner" to deal. 

Faire un main — To make a trick. 

* Forcer — To play a superior card on an inferior. 

La Belle — The highest card of any suit. 

*La Vole — To make all the tricks. 

*Le Point — One score of the five which compose the game 

Lcvte — One trick made whilst playing. 

^Proposer — The asking fresh hands, or part of fresh hands 

Refaire — To recommence distributing the cards. 

*Renouncer — Not to answer the suit led. 

*Retourner — When the cards are dealt to turn up the first of 
the Talon. 

Sous-forcer — To play a card inferior to what remains of some 
suit in hand. 

Talon — What remains of the pack after there has been dis- 
tributed to each player what he requires 
266 



CRIBBAGE. 



Cribbage is a game played by two persons, with a com- 
plete pack of 52 cards. We shall commence by treating of 
the five-card game, which, besides being the parent stem, 
affords the greatest scope for the exercise of skill, and is the 
most generally played. Sixty-one points constitute the game. 
These points are scored on a Cribbage Board, of which the 
following is a representation. It has, as will be seen, sixty- 
one holes, and in these, the points aforesaid, are marked; 
the whole table being subdivided into com- 
partments of five holes each. 

The board is placed either across or 
lengthways, between the players. It is a 
matter of indifference how the end of the 
board from which you commence is placed ; 
but you must count from that end which 
contains the sixty-first, or game hole; 
beginning at the outside edge, (A or B) 
and passing along it to the top, then down 
the inside row to game. To mark the 
game, each player has two pegs ; if the first 
score be two, stick a peg and leave it in the 
second hole, and when next it becomes your 
turn to mark, place the other peg in the 
number that gives the points you have to 
mark, counting from your first peg. When 
you have to mark a third score, take out 
the back peg, and reckon from the fore- 
most, which must never be disturbed 
during the progress of the game, the scores 
being invariably marked by the hindmost 
peg of the two. Thus, the foremost peg 
always keeping its hole, the players can 
detect the amount that is marked, and 
check each other's score. To avoid con- 
fusion it is usual for the pegs of each party 
to be of different colours ; although the one player never in 
any way, touches his adversary's half of the board. Before 

267 



j. : 

i ' : 
i 


• : i 



Game 
hole. 



CRIBBAGE. 

stating out of what results the points so scored arise, it is fit 
to give the relative value of the cards. 

All the Kings, Queens, Knaves, and Tens, count as ten 
each ; the rest of the cards according to their ordinary value, 
as sixes for six, eights for eight, and so forth ; Aces reckon 
one only. This means merely their value as cards. The points 
which count for the game are made by Fifteens, Sequences, 
Flushes, Pairs, &c. The board being duly prepared, the 
players cut for the deal, the lowest cribbage card winning the 
cut. If you play games, you must cut at the termination of 
each ; not so when playing rubbers. The winner of the crib 
then shuffles the pack, the dealer being entitled to do so the 
last. How this shall be done, together with all the minutes 
of proceeding, will be given in the Laws. 

The first move of account, is the marking of three holes, 
by the player who loses the deal, as a make-weight for the 
adversary's advantage. He is entitled, indeed, to mark them 
at any part of the game. Five cards, in alternate succession, 
are then dealt with the faces downwards, one at a time ; the 
rest of the pack being then placed faces downwards also on 
the table. The players then gather up their cards, and each 
having taken out two, they are placed by themselves on the 
table, with the faces down. These four cards are what is 
called the " Crib," which becomes the property of the dealer, 
under certain conditions. Each player having put out his 
two crib cards, which of course have not been seen by his 
adversary, the non-dealer cuts the remainder of the pack, and 
the dealer turns up the top card of it. 

These preliminaries thus settled, the game commences by 
the non-dealer leading, and his adversary playing to him, and 
announcing the nature of his card. Suppose it a king, he 
calls " ten," and the dealer replying with an " eight," he, the 
latter, cries " eighteen," as the amount of the ten and eight. 
The dealer having thus made eighteen, his opponent plays 
again, and announces the increased aggregate, and thus the 
play proceeds till the whole amount reaches exactly thirty-one, 
or as near it, without exceeding, as can possibly be accom- 
plished by the cards in either hand. He who makes up thirty- 
one, or, as before said, who comes the nearest to it that the 
cards permit, scores two, the remaining cards in hand, if any 
are thrown up. 
268 



FOR WHAT YOU MARK AT CRIBBAGE. 

The better to convey a view of a hand in process of being 
played, let us suppose the leader plays a three, and calls 
" three j" the dealer then puts on it a tenth card, and cries 
" thirteen," upon this the first leader plays another tenth 
card, and exclaims "twenty-three," his antagonist rejoins 
with a five, and proclaims the total " twenty-eight." The 
first player finding his third or last card will not come within 
the prescribed limits of thirty-one, declares his inability to 
play, by the word " go," and exposes his card by throwing it 
upon the table. Should the opposite player hold a three, and 
thus be enabled to make out thirty-one, he plays this card 
and scores two points ; but failing, he throws up his card, but 
scores one for the " go," because it was he who made twenty- 
eight, the nearest number to thirty-one. If, however, his last 
card should be an ace or deuce, he must play it, as it does not 
exceed the thirty-one ; still, however, scoring one for the 
"go." It is to be understood that at Cribbage, there is no 
restraint upon the player, as to what card he shall play. 

The points which each party has made, during the playing 
out the hand, having been all taken at the time they were 
gained; and, the deal being finished, each party now com- 
pletes his score, and marks that number of points towards 
game, to which he is entitled. The non-dealer reckons first ; 
and, having marked his gains, if any, on the board, the dealer 
in his turn counts — first, his hand, and then his crib, for the 
crib belongs to the dealer. 

Another deal then takes place, and is conducted in a simi- 
lar manner ; and so on, until either one of the parties has 
completed the required number of sixty-one, when he is pro- 
claimed the victor, and the game is finished. 

FOR WHAT YOU MARK AT CRIBBAGE. 

Points in play can only be made by one of the seven fol- 
lowing ways : — 

Firstly, by Fifteens — Secondly, by Sequences — Thirdly, 
by Pairs — Fourthly, by Pairs-royal — Fifthly, by Double- 
pairs-royal — Sixthly, by the Knave being turned up — and 
Seventhly, by making thirty-one, or the nearest number 
thereunto. 

Points on reckoning the hand and crib, after the hand ia 

24* 269 



CRIBBAGE. 

played out, can only be made by one of the seven following 
ways : — 

Firstly, by Fifteens — Secondly, by Sequences — Thirdly, 
by Flushes — Fourthly, by Pairs — Fifthly, by Pair-royal — 
Sixthly, by Double-pairs-royal — and Seventhly, by the Knave 
being of the same suit as the card turned up. The various 
points you are entitled to, under either of these several 
denominations, being added together, from the whole number 
contained in your hand or crib ; and you score accordingly. 

And first of the Fifteens ; as often as you make the num- 
ber fifteen in playing, you score two. The leader, for instance, 
plays an eight, you put a seven on it, cry " fifteen," and 
straightway you score two points. The result is the same 
whenever you make fifteen, whether in one or more leads or 
rounds. As already observed, all tenth cards count for ten. 
The hand being played, you now set about summing it up, 
taking two points for every fifteen you can make by means 
of reckoning the cards together of which it consisted. The 
turn-up, or " start" card, is common property, and available 
to both players in computing their hands, and to crib also. 
All this is wholly without reference to any thing that occurred 
while the hands were being played ; and by whatever combi- 
nation fifteen can be made out of the cards as above enume- 
rared, two points are added to the score. Should you hold 
king, knave, and a five, you count for two fifteens ; should a 
tenth card turn up, in this case you score three " twos," that 
is to say, a third for the combination of your five with such 
tenth card ; and if, instead of being a tenth card, the turn up 
should be a five, then you count eight, having four fifteens on 
the cards. The dealer calculates the crib for fifteens, in the 
same manner that he does his hand, and uses the turn-up with 
both, that is separately, he cannot combine his hand with his 
crib. 

Thirty-one. — Every time you make this amount in the 
course of the game, you score two. But this only applies to 
the game when in progress of being played, it has nothing to 
do with the subsequent summing up. 

End-hole. — If neither party make up thirty-one, then he 
who plays the card that makes up the nearest number to it, 
without exceeding it, as already stated, scores one ; this ia 
u one for the go." 
270 



FOR WHAT YOU MARK AT CRIBBAGE. 

Pah or Pairs. — Every pair made in the play or the hand, 
reckons for two points. To pair is to play a card of the same 
description, not of the same suit only. If a tenth card be 
played, and you can answer it with a similar tenth card dur- 
ing any part of the same hand, without exceeding thirty-cue, 
it is a pair, and counts two. But in these pairs, all tenth 
cards do not count alike. It must be king for king, queen 
for queen, and so forth. At the end of the deal, you take the 
turn-up card to assist you in pairing, and count two for all 
pairs made by its assistance. 

Pair Royal, or Prial. — This consists of three cards of a 
similar sort, held either in the hand or crib, or occurring in 
the course of the game, as three Kings, three Aces, three 
nines, &c. It scores six. Thus : — if the leader play a six, 
you put another six on it, and score two for the pair ) he then 
returns a six, makes a pair-royal, and counts six points. If 
you have a pair-royal in your hand or your crib, you also 
score six for it ; and should you only hold a pair, and turn uj 
the third, it reckons also for six. It is needless to say these 
combinations do not count for points, when other cards have 
been played between them. 

Double Pair Royal. — Four cards of a sort make this com- 
bination, for which the score is twelve ; alike, whether made 
in play, or in the hand, or in the crib. The turn-up card 
reckons with hand and crib, in this, as in every other case. 
Moreover, should your opponent have made a pair-royal, by 
playing a third of a sort, you are entitled to the double-pair- 
royal, if you answer him with a fourth. 

In taking six for a pair-royal, or twelve for a double-pair- 
royal, you are not to suppose that the six and the twelve are 
merely increased numbers, bestowed as premiums for such 
combinations of the cards, and settled by arbitrary arrange- 
ment, independent of the rule that two points are allowed for 
every pair. A pair reckons for two, and the same principle, 
applied to a pair-royal, produces six ; because, as a pair-royal 
contains three distinct pairs, you score two for each pair. 
Place, for instance, three sixes in a row on the table, and 
mark them 1, 2, and 3, thus : — 



12 3 

Six Six Six 



271 



CftlBBAQE. 

Here Nos. 1 and 2 form the first pair, Nos. 1 and 3 the 
Becond pair, and Nos. 2 and 3 the third pair; without the 
same two cards having ever been reckoned more than once 
together. 

Having analyzed this example, there will be little difficulty 
in ascertaining the number of pairs to be found by taking in 
pieces a double pair-royal. The readiest way to attain demon- 
stration is to place the four sixes in a row on the table, as you 
did the three sixes, and number them 1, 2, 3, and 4, thus : — 

12 3 4 

Six Six Six Six 

Nos. 1 and 2 combined together, form a pair, 

and yield two points, for which carry out - 2 

— 1 and 3 form the second pair, and give 
two more ------ 2 

— 1 and 4 form the third pair 2 

— 2 and 3 form the fourth pair 2 

— 2 and 4 form the fifth pair 2 

— 3 and 4 form the sixth pair 2 

Total - 12 

Thus we have six distinct pairs in a double pair-royal, which, 
of course, are thereby entitled to twelve points. Observe, that 
in making these points, although we reckon the cards over 
and over again, they always unite in different associations, and 
the same two cards are never reckoned twice together. 

Sequences — Consist of three or more cards following in 
successive numbers, whether of the same suit or otherwise. 
He who holds them scores one point for every card in the 
combination, whether it take place in playing or in counting 
the hand or crib. But there cannot be a sequence under 
three cards. As in certain other cases, the court cards, king, 
queen, and knave, rank in sequences, after their usual classi- 
fication as to rank, and not all alike as tenth cards. To form 
a sequence in play, it matters not which of the cards is played 
first, or last, provided the sequence can be produced by a 
transposition of the order in which they fell. Thus, you lead 
the five of hearts, your adversary returns the three of dia- 
monds, you then play the four of any suit, and score three for 
272 



FOE WHAT YOU MARK AT CRIBBAGE. 

the sequence ; he then plays six, and makes four, and so on, 
as long as the continuous sequence can be made. The spirit 
of this rule may be applied to all combinations occurring in 
regular successions. 

You here observe that it does not matter of what suit are 
the cards forming the sequence, nor does the order signify in 
which they are played. You must not pass thirty -one in 
making a sequence. If a sequence in play is once broken, it 
must be formed afresh, or cannot be acted on. 

In reckoning your sequences at the close of the deal, you 
ase the card turned-up along with your hand and crib ; and 
reckon them every way they will. .A single example of this 
will here suffice : — 

Suppose the crib to consist of two Kings, (Clubs and Dia- 
monds,) and two Queens, (Hearts and Spades,) the Knave 
of Spades being the card turned-up ;— how many can you take 
for sequences ? 

Twelve, being four sequences of three each ; to be computed 
by reckoning the Knave with the Kings and Queens ; rinsing 
the changes on the latter, somewhat in a similar manner to 
the mode in which you have been taught to form a double 
pair-royal. To simplify this, take the Knave, the two Queens, 
and the two Kings, and spread them before you ; when they 
will count thus : — 

Knave, with Queen of Hearts and King of Clubs 3 
Knave, with Queen of Spades and King of Clubs 3 
Knave, with Queen of Hearts and King of Dia- 
monds --- 3 

Knave, with Queen of Spades and King of Dia- 
monds - - - -- - - -3 

Points for the four sequences - - - - 12 

The Knave. — If you hold a Knave of the same suit aa 
the card turned-up, you are entitled to one point, which you 
take on reckoning your hand. Should there be, in the crib, 
the Knave of the suit turned-up, the dealer, to whom the crib 
belongs, takes one point on reckoning his crib. In the eupho- 
nious phraseology of some cribbage-players, this is termed 
" one for his nob/' 

273 






CRIBBAGE. 

Should the turn-up card itself be a Knave, the dealer im- 
mediately scores two points ; which, by way of antithesis with 
" his nob," are called " two for his heels." Similar phrases 
are,, after all, rather to be considered as quaint, than vulgar. 
They recall to our minds the recollection of the once popular 
game of Quadrille, played by the Lady Teazles of the past 
century, in which the verb " to beast" is so indefatigably 
conjugated. 

A Flush. — A Flush cannot happen in play, but occurs 
only in computing the hand or crib. A Flush signifies that 
all the cards in hand, or crib, are of the same suit, in which 
case you are allowed to ma.rk one point for every card of which 
the Flush is composed. Thus, if your hand comprise three 
hearts, you will take, on scoring for your hand, three for the 
flush in hearts ; and should the turn-up card chance to be alsc 
a heart, you will add another point for that, making four alto- 
gether. You are not permitted, however, to reckon a flush 
in the crib, unless the cards, of which the crib is composed, 
are of the same suit as the card turned up. It is essential to 
recollect the difference between a flush in the hand, and a flush 
in the crib. 

In reckoning the hand and crib after the deal, you have 
been already informed that the non-dealer counts first. It 
will facilitate your reckoning, if you sum up the amount of 
points to which you are entitled, in the following order : 
Firstly, Fifteens — Secondly, Sequences — Thirdly, Flushes — 
Fourthly, Pairs ; Pairs-Royal, or Double Pairs-Royal — 
Fifthly, the point for the Knave. Reckoning up the hand, or 
crib, is technically termed " showing." Thus the non-dealer 
is said to have " the first show," a point of immense import- 
ance at the final stage of the game ; since he may thus be 
enabled just to " show out," and consequently win the game ; 
while the dealer may hold in his hand, and crib, points 
enough to make him out three times over, but altogether use- 
less, since he has not the first show. 

The non-dealer having summed up hi3 score, under the 
observation of his opponent, the latter then performs the 
same operation, as relates to his own hand. He then turns 
up crib, which has up to this time lain perdue, and sec res all 
to which it may entitle him. 
274 



LAWS AT CRIBBAGE. 



THE LAWS. 



1. — In single games there must be a fresh cut for each 
game ; but not so when rubbers are played. The lowest crib- 
bage card wins the cut : when both players cut alike, it is a 
tye, and there must be another cut. 

II.— In cutting for the deal, not less than four cards should 
be removed, and not more than half the pack, that a fair and 
proper cut may remain for him who cuts last. 

III. — The cards are to be dealt out one by one, and they 
must not be touched till the deal has been completed. 

IV.— The dealer may expose his own cards in dealing if he 
please, but if he shows one of his adversary's, the latter 
scores two points, and may demand a new deal, provided he 
does so before turning his cards. When a faced card occurs 
in dealing, there must be a fresh deal, including all the for- 
malities of cutting, shuffling, &c. 

V. — If the dealer mis-deal without being aware of it till 
one of the hands has been taken up, the opposite party may 
score two, and the cards must be dealt over again. Should 
his adversary expose a card during the progress of the deal, 
the dealer may deal over again if he pleases, provided he has 
not seen his hand. 

VI. — Though both players have the privilege of shuffling 
the pack previous to the cards being dealt, the dealer has the 
right to do so last. 

VII. — Should the dealer give his adversary more than five 
cards, the non- dealer may mark two points, and there must be 
a fresh deal ; but, in such case, the non-dealer must discover 
the error, before he takes up his cards, or he cannot claim the 
two, though there must still be a new deal. Should the dealer, 
in dealing, give himself more than five cards, his adversary 
may mark two points, and either call a fresh deal, or draw the 
extra card or cards, from the hand of his opponent. Should 
the dealer give to either party less than five cards there must 
be a fresh deal ; and should the dealer deal two cards at once 
to either party, there must be a new deal, unless his adversary 
consent to his withdrawing the surplus card ; in which case it 
must be placed on the top of the pack. 

VIII. — Should either player find that his adversary has 

275 



CRIBBAGE. 

more than five cards in his hand, he can claim two points and 
a new deal. 

IX. — Should the pack, being dealt from, be touched pre- 
vious to being cut for the " start," the party so offending for- 
feits two points. 

X. — In cutting for the start, the non-dealer must remove 
at least three cards, and leave not less than four behind. 

XI. — Should the dealer turn up a Knave, and neglect scor- 
ing the two points for such Knave, until he has played his 
first card, he cannot take the two points. 

(He is, however, in time to take the two points, after his 
adversary has played his first card ; a distinction of some con- 
sequence, since we are all at times liable to forgetfulness) 

XII. — The non-dealer must turn out for the crib first. A 
card once so laid out, cannot be taken up again. Either 
player confusing his cards with the crib, forfeits two points, 
and his opponent may claim a fresh deal. The dealer alone 
is entitled to touch the crib, but he may not do so until he 
takes it up to count it. 

XIII. — He who takes more points than he is entitled to, 
when reckoning his hand or crib, or scoring for a penalty, 
may be put back as many points as he has over-scored, and 
then his adversary may add the same amount to his own 
account. 

XIV. — No penalty attaches to a neglect of making points, 
to which the player is entitled. 

XV. — One player cannot demand of another his aid to 
make out a score. 

Example. — Suppose K to say to L, "am I not twelve ?" 
— L replies, properly enough, " I shall neither tell you, nor 
shall I pass any opinion on the subject. If you take more 
than you ought, I shall take you down;" et voild tout! 

XVI. — If one player touch the pegs of his adversary, save 
to correct an error of the score, he shall forfeit two points. 
If a player touch his own pegs, save when he has a right to 
score, he forfeits two points. When both pegs have been 
displaced by accident, the opposite player must be allowed to 
restore them to their places; or in the event of being refused, 
he can claim the game. When the foremost peg has been 
displaced by any chance, it must be put into the hole behind 
the back peg, of the player to whom it belongs. 
276 



ON LAYING OUT FOR THE CRIB. 

XVII. — He who scores a game as won, that he has not 
won, forfeits it. 

XVIII. — A player who detects his adversary with more or 
fewer cards in his hand than he has a right to, can score two 
points and call a new game. 

XIX. — A lurch cannot be claimed, unless it be specified in 
the first instance. When the " lurch" has been agreed to 
between the players at the commencement of a game, it 
reckons as a double game ; it consists in one player having 
marked sixty-one before the other has scored thirty-one. 

XX. — When scoring points, if the pegs be quitted, that 
score cannot be altered. If two cards be played, and any 
points remain unreckoned, they become forfeited. Should a 
player put his cards away without taking for them, he forfeits 
any points he might have claimed for hand or crib. 

XXI. — When a card that may legally be played has been 
shown, it cannot be recalled. If it cannot be played according 
to the laws of the game, no penalty attaches to the exposure. 

XXII. — If a player neglects to play, when he can come in 
under thirty-one, his opponent may score two. 

XXIII. — In reckoning a hand or crib, it must be plainly 
set out, and remain till the other side fully understands the 
nature of the claims made on account of it. 

XXIV. — There is no penalty for a number called in mis- 
take in the progress of the game. 

XXV. — As already said, the three points appropriated by 
the non-dealer may be claimed by him during any part of the 
game ; but if his adversary be permitted to score his sixty- 
one points, it is then too late, for the game is at an end. 

XXVI. — If either player refuse to pay a penalty that he 
has incurred, by infringing the rules of play, his adversary 
may claim the game. 

XXVII. — Bystanders shall not in any way interfere with 
the progress of the game. 

XXVIII. — In cases of disputes that do not come within 
the provisions of these rules, a third party may be appointed 
as umpire, by consent of the players, and his decision must 
be adopted as final. 

ON LAYING OUT FOR THE CRIB. 

How to discard in the best manner for the Crib is one of 

25 277 



CRIBBAGE. 

the most scientific parts of the game ; and consequently one 
of the most important. 

Firstly, When it is not your own crib, you will lay out 
such cards as are likely to be, in an average number of cases, 
of the least possible advantage to your opponent, in the pro- 
duction of pairs, fifteens, sequences, &c. 

Secondly, When it is your own crib, you will lay out favor- 
able cards for the crib. 

Thirdly, It being your own crib to which you are about to 
discard, you will prefer consulting the interests of the crib, 
in preference, even to those of your hand. 

The most advantageous cribbage-cards are fives, sevens, 
eights &c, when so assorted as to form fifteens, sequences, 
pairs, or flushes. The five is, of all others, the most useful 
card, since it makes fifteen equally with either one of the tenth 
cards; of which there are no fewer than sixteen in the pack. 
Fives must therefore be in general the most eligible cards to 
lay out to your own crib, and the least eligible (for you) to 
lay out to your adversary ; since, in so doing, you are almost 
certain to give him points. To discard a p?ir of any cards, 
again, is mostly bad play, unless it is for your own crib ; and 
cards which follow each other in order, as a three and four, or 
nine and ten, being likely to be brought in for sequences, are 
generally bad cards to lay out in the case of its being your 
adversary's crib. The same calculation should, in its prin- 
ciple, be carried out as far as possible. Suppose you discard, 
to your opponent's crib, two hearts, when you might with 
equal propriety have laid out a heart and a club instead, — 
you here give him the chance, however remote you may fancy 
it, of making a flush in his crib ; which could not be effected 
by him, had you laid out the heart and club. 

To lay out cards, purposely, which are disadvantageous foi 
the crib, is called in the "cribbage dialect" of our ancestors 
"baulking" or "bilking" the crib. 

The least likely cards to reckon for points in the crib, and 
therefore generally the best to discard for your adversary, are 
kings ; since a sequence can only be made up to, or as it may 
be termed, on one side of them ; and cannot be carried beyond 
them. A king is therefore a greater baulk in the crib than 
the queen. So, again, of an ace, — a sequence can only be 
made from it, and not up to it; and an ace is, therefore 
278 



ON LAYING OUT FOR THE CRIB. 

frequently a great baulk to a crib ; though in discarding an 
ace some judgment is required to be exercised, being often a 
good card to hold for play; and forming a component part of 
fifteen, particularly when combined with sixes, sevens, and 
eights, or with fours and tenth cards. 

The cards, then, best adapted to baulk our antagonist's 
crib, are, a king with a ten, niue, eight, seven, six, or one , 
a queen, with a nine, eight, seven, six, or ace, or cards equally 
distinct, or far off, and therefore certain not to be united in 
sequence by meeting with any other cards whatever. Of 
course, particular hands require particular p^ay, and general 
principles must give way before their exceptions. " Circum- 
stances alter cases ;" throughout this work, as in all similar 
works, the author writes for what may be called u average 
hands of cards j" and recommends that play which would be 
most conducive to success in the largest proportion of events. 

Never lay out a knave for your adversary's crib, if you can, 
with propriety, avoid it; as the probability of the turn-up 
card being of the same suit as the knave, is 3 to 1 against it. 
Consequently, it is only 3 to 1 but the retaining such knave 
in your hand gains you a point ; whereas, should you discard 
it to your opponent's crib, it is only 3 to 1 against the chance 
of its making him a point ; hence the probable difference of 
losing a point by throwing out your knave, is only 3 to 2£ ; 
or 9 to 7, — that is to say, in laying out a knave for your 
antagonist's crib, when you could equally keep the same in 
your hand, — sixteen times — you give away just seven points ; 
it being only 9 to 7, but you give away a point every time 
you play in this manner ; and every single point is of conse- 
quence, if contending against a good player. As I just now 
remarked, there may, of course, occur exceptions to this and 
every other rule. 

The cards which are usually the best to lay out for your 
own crib, are, two fives, five and six, five and tenth card, 
three and two, seven and eight, four and one, nine and six, 
and similar couples. If you have no similar cards to lay out, 
put down as close cards as you can ; because, by this means, 
you have the greater chance of either being assisted by the 
cards laid out by your adversary, or by the turn-up ; and 
further, you should uniformly lay out two cards of the same 
suit for your own crib, in preference, cotter is paribus, to two 

279 



CRFBBAGE. 

other cards of the same kind, that are of different suits, as 
this gives you the probable chance of flushing your crib; 
whereas, should you lay out two cards of different suits, all 
gain under the head of a flush is at once destroyed. It is 
mostly good play, to retain a sequence in hand, in preference 
to cards less closely connected; more especially should such 
sequence be a flush ; and once more remember that the pro- 
bable chance of points from the crib is something nearly 
approaching to twenty per cent, over the hand. It is there- 
fore indispensably your duty, if you wish to win, to give the 
lead to your crib at the expense of your hand. 

In general, whenever you are able to hold a Pair-royal in 
hand, you should lay out the other two cards, both for your 
own, and your adversary's crib; some few cases, however, 
excepted. For example, should you hold a Pair-royal of any 
description, along with two fives, — it would be highly dan- 
gerous to give your antagonist the brace of fives, unless in 
such a situation of the game that your Pair-royal would make 
you certainly out, having the first show ; — or else that your 
adversary is so nearly home himself, that the contents of the 
crib are wholly unimportant. Many other cards are very 
hazardous to lay out to your adversary's crib, even though 
you can hold a Pair-royal ; such as two and three, five and 
six, seven and eight, and five and tenth card; therefore, 
should you have such cards combined together, you must pay 
particular regard to the stage of the game. This caution 
equally applies to many other cards, and particularly when, 
the game being nearly over, it happens to be your own deal, 
and that your opponent is nearly home, or within a moderate 
show-out. Here then should be especial care taken to retain 
in hand cards which may enable you to play " off," or wide 
of pour adversary ; and thus prevent his forming any sequence 
or Pair-royal. In similar positions you should endeavour, 
also, to keep cards that will enable you to have a good chance 
of winning the end-hole ; which frequently saves a game. 

GENERAL DIRECTIONS FOR PLAYING THE GAME 
SCIENTIFICALLY. 

Never, at any period of the game, make a pair, fifteen, 
sequence, &c, without glancing your eye first at the relative 
places of the cribbage-pegs, to know whether you are justified 
280 



GENERAL DIRECTIONS 

in playing a forward or backward game. I repeat, that on 
this the whole art may be said to turn, of playing Cribbage 
scientifically. 

To gain the end-hole, or point nearest to thirty-one is, 
among professed players, justly esteemed a considerable 
advantage, and should be proportionately kept in view. By 
attaining the end-hole yourself, you not only score a point, 
but save a difference of two points by snatching it from your 
opponent. In playing for this, there is much scope for judg- 
ment. 

Should you hold a three and a two, it is frequently the best 
play to lead off the three, on the chance of your adversary's 
playing a tenth card (of which never forget that there are six- 
teen,) making thirteen ; when your two " drops in," and pro- 
duces two points for the fifteen. The same principle applies 
to the leading from a four and an ace, and has this additional 
advantage, that should you thus succeed in forming fifteen, 
your opponent can form no sequence from your cards. 

Remember, that when your adversary leads a seven or 
eight, should you make fifteen, you give him the chance of 
coming in with a six or a nine, and thus gaining three holes 
against you. Sometimes this would even tend to your 
advantage, by allowing of your rejoinder with a fourth card 
in sequence. For instance, your opponent leads an eight, 
and you make fifteen by answering with a seven ; he plays a 
six, making twenty-one, and scores three for the sequence ; 
but having a nine, or ten, you play it, and score after him. 
In all such cases, play to the state of your game ; for what 
would be at one time correct, would be, at another, the worst 
possible play. 

To lead from a pair is mostly good ; because, should your 
opponent pair you, you form a Pair-royal, making six holes ; 
while the chance of his rejoining with a fourth is too small to 
be taken into consideration. It would rarely, though, be 
correct, to lead from a pair of fives. 

When your adversary leads a card which you can pair, it 
is mostly better to make fifteen, in preference, should you be 
uble so to do ; as you will naturally suspect he wishes you to 
pair him, in order to make a Pair-royal himself. But here, 
as elsewhere, your chief guide is the relative sfate of tha 
scores. 

25* 281 



CRIBBAGE. 

When you can possibly help it, consistently with youi 
cards, do not, in play, make the number twenty-one ; for your 
antagonist is then likely to come in with a tenth card. 

Should you hold a nine and three, it is good play to lead 
the three ; because, should it be paired, you form fifteen by 
playing the nine. The same applies to the holding of a four 
and a seven, in which case, should your four be paired, you 
make fifteen with the seven. 

The following style of play facilitates your obtaining fre- 
quently the end-hole. Should you hold two low cards, and 
one high card, lead from the former ; but should you hold one 
low card, and two high cards, lead from the latter; like other 
general directions, all this being subject to contingencies. 

Holding a ten and five, and two holes being at the moment 
an object of great importance, lead the tenth card, in hopes of 
your adversary's making fifteen, when you can pair his five. 

Holding a seven and four, it is good play to lead the four ; 
because, if paired, your seven comes in for fifteen : the same 
direction applies to your holding a six and three, and three 
and nine, or other cards similarly related. 

When compelled to lead from a sequence of three cards, 
play off the lowest, or highest, in preference to the middle 
card. 

In laying out for your own crib, suppose you hold a pair of 
fives, and no tenth card, discard them both. Bear in mind 
that of all the tenth cards, the knave is of the most import- 
ance ; and that those cards which tell best in counting the 
hand, are not always the best for playing. 

If in play, you throw down a four, making the number 
twenty-seven, your adversary has the chance of pairing your 
four, and of making at the same time, thirty-one. If you 
make twenty-eight with a three, you incur the same risk. 
These apparent trifles must be studied, and similar points, if 
possible, avoided on your part; while you should be con- 
stantly on the watch to grasp them for yourself, should your 
antagonist leave an opening. 

As the dealer plays last, his chances are greater than those 
of the leader, for making the end-hole, or other desirable 
points in play. The dealer has also in his favor the chance 
of gaining the two points by lifting a knave. (The knave is 
called by many Cribbage-players "the Jack.") 
282 



GENERAL DIRECTIONS. 

The phrase "playing off," is used to denote playing card* 
which are wide apart, in contradistinction to its reverse, termed 
" playing on." Thus, should your opponent lead a four, and 
you answer with a two, three, five, or six, you " play on j" 
because you give him the option of making a sequence, should 
he hold the fitting card. But if, in answer to his four, you 
play a high card, you " play off," since he can have no card 
capable of forming a sequence. Whether to play " off/' or 
" on," is half the battle, and depends entirely, should you 
hold the option, on the relative state of the scores. 

It is frequently your game, to allow of your adversary's 
forming a sequence, in order to come in yourself for a longer 
one. To tempt him to this, play a card close to his, instead 
of playing off. Suppose you hold a three, four, and five, and 
you opponent leads a seven ; — in this case, should it be to 
your interest to bestow a certain number of points, in order 
to realize the same amount for yourself, you play the five; 
for if he answers with a six, marking three, you play your 
four, and score for the sequence and fifteen accordingly. 

ODDS OP THE GAME. 

The chances of points in a hand are calculated at more than 
4, and under 5 ; and those to be gained in play are reckoned 
2 to the dealer, and 1 to the adversary, making in all about 6 
on the average, throughout the game ; and the probability of 
those in the crib are estimated at 5 ; so that each player 
ought to make 16 in two deals, and onward in the same pro- 
portion to the end of the game ; by which it appears that the 
first dealer has rather the advantage, supposing the cards to 
run equal, and the players likewise equally matched in skill. 
By attending to the above calculation any player may judge 
whether he is at home or not, and thereby play his game 
accordingly, either by making a push when he is behind and 
holds good cards, or by endeavouring to baulk the opponent 
when his hand proves indifferent. 

IN FAVOUR OF THE DEALER. 

Each party being even 5 holes going up, is . 6 to 4 
at 10 holes each . . . 12 ... 11 

15 each 7 ... 4 

20 each 6 ... 4 

283 



CRIBBAGE. 

Each party being at 25 each is 11 to 10 

30 each 9 ... 5 

35 each 7 ... 6 

40 each . . . . . . 10 ... 9 

45 each 12 ... 8 

50 each 5 ... 2 

55 each 21 ... 20 

60 each 2 ... 1 

When the dealer wants 3 and his opponent 4 . 5 ... 4 
In all situations of the game, till within 15 of 
the end, when the dealer is 5 points a-head . 3 ... 1 

But when within 15 of the end 8 ... 1 

And if the dealer wants 6, and the adversary 11 10 ... 1 
Should the dealer be 10 a head, it is . . . 4 or 5 ... 1 
And near the end of the game . . . . 10 or 12 ... 1 
When the dealer wants 16 and the antagonist 11 21 ... 20 

AGAINST THE DEALER. 

Both players being even at 56 holes each, is . . 7 to 5 

57 7... 4 

58 ...... 3 ... 2 

If the dealer wants 20, and his opponent 17 . . 5 ... 4 
When the dealer is 5 points behind, previous 

to turning the top of the board 6 ... 5 

When he is 31, and the antagonist 36 . . . . 6 ... 4 

When 36, and the adversary 41 . 7 ... 4 

EVEN BETTING. 

When at 59 holes each player. 

In all points of the game, till within 20 of the end, if the 
non-dealer is three a-head. 
The dealer wanting 14, and his antagonist 9. 
Ditto ... 11, Ditto .... 7. 

SIX CARD CRIBBAGE. 

This game it also played with the whole pack, but both in 
skill and scientific arrangement, it is vastly inferior to that 
played with five cards. Still it is a pleasant resource in a 
dull hour, and abounds with amusing points and combinations, 
without taxing the mind much. It is played on the same 
284 



SIX CARD CRIBBAGE. 

board, and according to the principal portion of the rules of 
the preceding game : its leading peculiarities may be thus 
summed up. 

The dealer gives six cards to himself and his adversary. 
Each player lays out two of these for crib, retaining four in 
his hand. The deal and the " start " card is the same as at 
the five card game, in like manner the pairs, sequences, fif- 
teens, &c, operate, and the game point is sixty-one. The 
non-dealer, however, is not allowed any points at the begin- 
ning. The main difference between the games, is, that in 
the game already described, the object is to get thirty-one, 
and then abandon the remaining cards; at the six card game, 
the whole are played out. There are more points made in 
the play, while at five cards, the game is often decided by the 
loss or gain of one point. At six card Cribbage, the last card 
played scores a point. This done the hands and crib are 
scored as at the five card game ; then another deal is played, 
and the victory is gained by the party who first gets sixty-one. 

As all the cards must be played out, should one party have 
exhausted his hand, and his adversary have yet two cards, the 
latter are to be played, and should they yield any advantage, 
it must be taken. For instance, C has played out his four 
cards, and D having two left (an eight and seven,) calls fifteen 
as he throws them down, and marks three points : two for the 
fifteen, and one for the last card. Again, should D's two cards 
have been a pair (threes, for instance,) he marks two for the 
pair, and a third point for the last card. Speculating on this, 
and other probabilities, you will always endeavour when you 
are last player, to retain as close cards as possible, for this 
will frequently enable you to make three or four points, by 
playing your last two cards, when you would otherwise make 
but a single point. But this demands further illustration, 
as it is of paramount importance. For example : — 

Suppose you to hold for the last two cards a seven and eight, 
and that your adversary has only one card remaining in his 
hand, the probable chance of its being either a six or a nine 
(in either of which cases you come in for four points,) is eleven 
to two ; therefore it is only eleven to two, but you gain three 
points by this play, exclusive of the end-hole ; — whereas, were 
you to retain as your last two cards, a seven, with a ten, or 
any two cards similarly wide apart, you have no chance to 

285 






CRIBBAGE. 

ecore more for them than the end-hole, as there if no proba- 
bility of their coming in for any sequence; or if you can 
retain a pair of any kind for the last two car^s (your adver- 
sary having only one card, and he being the first player), you 
by this means make a certainty of two points, exclusive of 
the end-hole. By the same rule you ought always to retain 
such cards, as will (supposing your adversary to have none 
left) make a pair, fifteen, &c, for by this means you gain 
many points which you otherwise could not possibly get. 

The calculations for throwing out at the five card game, 
are, for the most part, applicable to this. Still there is not 
quite so much temptation to sacrifice the hand for the sake of 
the crib, as they do not both contain a similar number of 
cards. At this game the hand scores more than the crib, as 
there is one player always on the look out to baulk crib, while 
so many points being open to the play, offers a greater induce- 
ment to keep together a good hand. As soon as thirty-one, 
or the number nearest to it, be made in playing the hand, the 
cards should be turned down, that no confusion may come of 
their being mixed with the succeeding cards. 

As before explained, in speaking of Five-Card Cribbage, 
your mode of conduct must be governed uniformly by the state 
of your game. Play to your score, and put the final result par- 
tially out of view. Whether it is your policy to play " on" or 
" off," must be ever the question in making up your judgment. 

On an average, a hand, the moderns say, ought to yield 
about seven, and a crib five points. It is useful to remember 
this in laying out, and to note the difference between the odds 
of seven to five in favor of the hand here, and the superiority 
of the ,crib to the hand at Five-Card Cribbage. 

The average number of points to be made each time by 
play, is from four to five. The dealer has the advantage here, 
because he plays last. Pasquin considered that you were only 
entitled to twenty-five points for three shows and play, and 
that the dealer is at home if when he make his second deal, 
he is twenty-five points up the board, and when he deals for 
the third time, within eleven holes of game. The present 
system of calculation is to allow twenty-nine instead of 
twenty-five holes for the three shows, and to consider that at 
the end of the second round each player is at home at twenty- 
nine holes. 
286 



THREE-HANDED CRIBBAGE. 

As you are on a parity at starting, being both at home, you 
will play with moderate caution your first hand ; making fair 
risks, but not running into too wide speculations. On taking 
up your second hand, you will adapt your play to the relative 
scores on the board, as you have been told in relation to the 
other variety of the game, and will play " on" or " off," 
according to the dictates of policy. The same rule will govern 
your conduct during the remainder of the game ; and should 
your adversary have gained the preference, or should you be 
more than home, both cases must be taken into consideration 
in playing your hand. If your cards present a flattering 
prospect, and you are by no means home, it is your duty to 
make a push, in order to regain the lead by running ; whereas, 
should your adversary be better planted than you, and should 
you take up bad cards, it will be the best play to keep off, and 
only endeavour to stop your antagonist as much as possible, 
and thereby have a probable chance of winning the game, 
through his not being able to make good his points. 

As so many points are to be gained in play, by the forma- 
tion of long sequences, you will frequently find it advan- 
tageous, having eligible cards for the purpose in view, to 
lead or play, so as to tempt your adversary to form t» short 
sequence, in order that you may come in for a longer. And 
this opportunity is particularly to be sought for, when a few 
holes are essential to your game, though gained at any risk. 
If you hold, as leader, a one, two, three, and four, the best 
card to lead is the four, since if paired, you answer with the 
ace, and your adversary's second card may not form a fifteen. 

ON THREE-HANDED CRIBBAGE. 

The game of Three-handed Cribbage is not often practised. 
It is played, as its name imports, by three persons ; the board 
being of a triangular shape, to contain three sets of holes of 
sixty each, with the sixty-first or game hole. Each of the 
three players is furnished separately with pegs, and scores his 
game in the usual manner. 

Three-handed Cribbage is subject to the same laws as the 
other species of the game. The calculations as to discarding 
and playing are very similar, but it must be remembered that 
as all three are independent, and fight for themselves alone, 
you have two antagonists instead of one. 

287 



CBIBBAGE. 

Five cards compose the deal. They are delivered separately, 
and after dealing the fifteenth, another, or sixteenth card is 
dealt from the pack to constitute the foundation of the Crib. 
To this each of the three players adds one card, and the Crib 
therefore consists of four cards, while each individual remains 
with four cards in hand. The deal and crib are originally 
cut for, and afterwards pass alternately. 

It is obvious, that you will be still even, if you gain only 
one game out of three, since the winner receives a double 
stake ; which is furnished by the two losers to him who first 
attains the sixty-first hole. It has been computed that he 
who has the second deal has rather the best chance of victory, 
but there seems very little difference. 

Occasionally, at this game, some amusement arises from 
the complicated sequences formed in play, but ordinarily it is 
a poor-enough affair. It will frequently happen that one of 
the three players runs a-head of the two others so fast, that it 
becomes their interest to form a temporary league of union 
against him. In this case they will strive all they can to favor 
each other, and regain the lost ground ; and in general, play- 
ers will do well not to lose sight of this principle, but to pre- 
fer favoring the more backward of the adversaries, to giving 
the chance of a single point to the other. Such leagues, 
however, are a good deal resembling those between higher 
authorities; in the making of which, each enters a mental 
caveat to break it the first moment it suits his convenience 

ON FOUR-HANDED CRIBBAGE. 

The game of Four-handed Cribbage is played by four per- 
sons, in partnerships of two and two, as at Whist; each sit- 
ting opposite to his partner. Rubbers or single games are 
played indifferently. Sixty-one generally constitute the game, 
but it is not unusual to agree, in preference, to go twice round 
the board, making the number of game one hundred and 
twenty-one. 

At the commencement of the sitting, it is decided which 
two of the four players shall have the management of the 
score, and the board is placed between them. The other two 
are not allowed to touch the board or pegs, though each may 
prompt his partner, and point out any omissions or irregu- 
larities he may discover in the computation. The laws which 
288 



jfcjUR-HANDED CRIBRAOE. 

govern Five-Card Cribbage are equally applicable here, as to 
the mode of marking holes, deficiencies in the counting, the 
taking too many points, &c. He who marks has a trouble- 
some task, arising from the constant vigilance requisite to be 
exercised, in order not to omit scoring points made by his 
partner; his own gains he seldom forgets to take. He who 
does not mark should acquire the habit of seeing that his 
partner marks the full number he requires. Partners may 
assist each other in counting their hands or cribs; their in- 
terests being so completely identified. 

It is most usual to play rubbers, and to cut for partners 
every rubber. The two highest and two lowest play together. 
The ace is always lowest. In some circles they consider all 
tenth cards equal in cutting for partners : in others they allow 
of preference, according to rank, as at Whist. This would, 
however, be only applicable to cutting for partners. Also, in 
some cases, it is the practice for the deal to go to the two who 
cut the lowest cards for partnership ; but in general, the deal 
is decided by a subsequent cut between the two parties who 
are to score ; the ace being the lowest card, and all tenth 
cards being equal. If it is decided not to change partners 
after a game or rubber, there must be a fresh cut still for the 
deal. Each may shuffle the cards in turn, according to the 
laws which regulate this operation at Whist. 

The deal and crib pass alternately round the table as at 
Whist, from right to left. The usual laws of Cribbage regu- 
late the act of dealing, as to exposing cards, and so forth ; 
and no one is suffered to touch their hands until the deal is 
complete. Before dealing, the cards must be cut in the ordi- 
nary way by your right hand antagonist. 

The dealer delivers five cards to each, in the usual mode, 
from right to left, one card at a time. The remainder of the 
pack he places on his left hand. Each person then lays out 
one card for the crib, which is of course the property of the 
dealer. The left-hand adversary must discard first, and so 
round the table; the dealer laying out last. There is no 
advantage in this, but such is the custom. It is hardly 
necessary to say that the crib always belongs to the dealer. 

As there is but one card to be laid out from the five 
received by each player, there is seldom much difficulty in 
making up your choice. Fives are the best cards to give your 

26* 289 



CRIBBAGE. 

own cribs, and you will never, therefore, give them to your 
antagonists. Low cards are generally best for the crib, and 
Kings or Aces the worst. Aces sometimes tell to great ad- 
vantage in the play at this game. When your partner has 
to deal, the crib being equally your own, as if you had it in 
your proper possession, must be favored in the same way. 
Before discarding, always consider with whom the deal 
stands. 

When all have laid up for the Crib, the pack is cut for the 
start-card. This cut is made by your left-hand adversary's 
lifting the pack, when you, as dealer, take off the top-card, 
as at Five-Card Cribbage. Observe that it is the left-hand 
adversary who cuts this time, whereas, in cutting the cards to 
you at the commencement of the deal, it is your right-hand 
adversary who performs the operation. 

Having thus cut the turn-up card, the player on the left- 
hand of the dealer leads off first, the player to his left follow- 
ing, and so on round the table, till the whole of the sixteen 
cards are played out according to the laws. Fifteens, se- 
quences, pairs, &c, reckon in the usual way for those who 
obtain them. Should either player be unable to come in 
under thirty-one, he declares it to be " a go," and the right 
of play devolves on his left-hand neighbour. No small cards 
must be kept up, which would come in, under a penalty. 
Thus should A play an ace, making the number twenty- 
eight, and should each of the other three pass it without 
playing, not having cards low enough to come in, — on its 
coming round to A, he must play if he can under thirty-one, 
whether he gain any additional points by so doing, or not. 
Example : — 

B plays an ace and makes thirty. Neither of the other 
three can come in, and on the turn to play coming round 
again to B, he plays another ace, and marks four points ; two 
for the pair of aces, and two for the thirty-one. 

Many similar examples might be adduced, and there fre- 
quently arise difficult and complicated cases of sequences 
made this way out of low cards. Indeed, the playing out 
of the hand requires constant watchfulness on all sides; 
much more so than in Six-Card Cribbage. So many pointa 
are made by play in Four-handed Cribbage, that it is es- 
sential to play as much as possible to the points, or stages, 
290 



FOUR-HANDED CRIBBAGE. 

of the game ; sufficient data respecting which will be presently 
given. • 

In leading off, great care is necessary; not only at first 
starting, but after every " rest," or thirty-one. A five is a 
bad lead, because the chances of a ten succeeding it, are so 
numerous ; and an ace is seldom a good lead, since should 
the second player pitch what is highly probable, a tenth card, 
your partner cannot pair him without making the ominous 
number of twenty-one ; a number equally bad at every des- 
cription of Cribbage, since the next player has thus so good a 
chance of converting it, by another tenth card, into thirty-one. 
A nine, again is a bad lead, for should your left-hand adver- 
sary make fifteen with a six, he cannot be paired by your 
partner, without making twenty-one. Bear this constantly in 
mind, and when possible to avoid it by equally good play, 
never either make the number twenty-one yourself, nor lead 
so as to compel your partner to do so. Threes, or fours form 
safe leads. 

The second player will observe caution in pairing a card, 
so as not to give away the chance of six for a paltry couple, 
unless particularly wanting ; or, from some collateral reasons, 
he may consider it a safe pair ; as in the case of the turn-up's 
being a similar card, — his holding a third of the same in his 
hand — the having seen one of the same already dropped, and 
so on. The same care must be shown in not playing closely 
on, unless compelled by the cards. Suppose your right-hand 
adversary leads a three, it is obvious, that if you reply with a 
two or four, you give your left-hand antagonist a good chance 
of forming a sequence, which he could not do, had you played 
off- On the other hand, there frequently arise cases in which 
you feel justified in playing " on," purposely to tempt your 
adversary to form the sequence : in order to give your partner 
the chance of coming in for a still longer sequence. In many 
situations, a few holes may be of paramount value, gained at 
any risk. If the second player can make fifteen, it is generallj 
better play than pairing the card led. Towards the end of the 
game it is sometimes important to retain cards all wide apart, 
when the object is merely to prevent your antagonist from 
making points in play ; but as you only lay out one card, you 
have little chance of assorting your hand as you could wish. 

The third player should aim at making the number below 

291 



GBIBBAGE. 

twenty-one, in order to give his partner a good chance of 
gaining the end-hole for the " go/' or the two for thirty-one. 

The dealer knowing he will have to play last the first round, 
will sometimes find it advantageous to hold aces, or low cards, 
for the purpose j particularly when it is essential to score a few 
holes in play, or when the only chance of game arises from 
the possibility of playing out. Holding aces, it is frequently 
better play, when you have the option, to make twenty-seven 
or twenty-eight, than thirty, in order to have a chance of 
bringing in your aces, which sometimes yield a heavy amount 
of points at that stage of the computation. When it is cer- 
tain that the game will be decided in the course of the play- 
ing out of the hand, without coming to your show, you will 
keep good cards for playing at all hazards. 

When the hand is played out, the different amounts are 
pegged, the crib being taken last. He who led off must score 
first, and so on round to the dealer. Each calls the number, 
to which he considers himself entitled, and watches to see 
that they are scored properly ; while at the same time he does 
not fail to scan his adversaries' cards with an observant eye, 
to see that, through mistake, they do not take more than their 
due. 

The amount of points to be expected, on an average, from 
each hand, is seven, and from the crib about four to five. 
1 m the play, it is computed that each of the four players 
si. uld make five points every time. Reasoning on these data, 
the non-dealers are at home, at the close of the first round, 
should they have obtained nineteen or twenty points, and the 
dealers are at home at the end of the first round, should they 
have acquired twenty-three or twenty -four. At the finish of 
the second round, with their average number, each set of 
players would be forty-two to forty -three. At the close of the 
third round, the non-dealers should be just out, or else the 
dealers will win. You must not, however, suppose there is 
any advantage to be gained from not having originally the 
deal ; the chances are so various that the parties start fully 
equal ; no matter whether with, or without the deal. From 
the above calculation, the game, going only once round the 
board, should be over in three rounds, both parties having a 
crib inclusive. Those who have not the first deal, have the 
original chance of winning, if they can keep it, by holding 
'292 



FOUR-HANDED CRIBBAGE. 

average cards throughout the game. Should they fail in 
making this good, the dealers (those who dealt originally are 
here signified,) will generally sweep all, having their second 
crib, and first show afterwards. As I have before intimated, 
it is quite as likely that the non-dealers will fail in holding 
" their own," as not. The non-dealers should observe mode- 
rate caution in the first hand, but under this head it is need- 
less to say more to either party, than to impress it upon them 
again and again, to become thoroughly acquainted with the 
number of points which form medium hands ; as well as the 
different stages of the game, and play accordingly. Moderate 
attention is all that is required to play Four-handed Cribbage 
well. It is a pleasant lively game, and when well conducted 
yields considerable amusement, Good Cribbage is univer- 
sally preferable to bad Whist. 

[Those who wish to study the game more fully, will do weL 
to read Mr. Walker's Cribbage Player's Handbook.] 



26» 2»5 



BOSTON. 

This game very much resembles Whist, and is somewhat 
like Quadrille. The players put 8 fish each into a pool, and 
the dealer 4 more. The cards are distributed as at Whist, 
except that the last is not to be turned up. During every 
deal, the player opposite the dealer, should shuffle a pack to 
be cut by his right hand neighbour, and turn up a card, for 
the first Preference ; the suit of the same colour, whether red 
or black, is styled the second Preference, and the other two 
are common suits. The player who misses deal does not lose 
his turn ; but as a punishment is to put 4 more fish into the 
pooL 

When the eldest hand thinks he can get 5 or more tricks, 
he is to say l Boston ;' if otherwise, he says 'Pass,' unless he 
plays Misere, that is, so as to lose every trick. Petite Misere 
is to put out a card, and lose every remaining trick ; Grande 
Misere is to lose them without putting one out ; Petite Misire 
Ouverte is to put out a card, and lay the others down, and then 
lose all ; Grande Misire Ouverte is the same without laying one 
out. When the eldest hand has 'Passed' the second may 
proceed as the eldest ; or if the eldest has said 'Boston/ the 
second or after him the third, and the dealer, may also say 
'Boston/ if he will engage to win 5 tricks with either Pre- 
ference for the trump ; or the second and other hands may 
say 'Petite' or 'Grand Misire/ or undertake to get 6 or more 
tricks, the trump being any suit, for these declarations will 
supersede that of Boston simply, as appears by the table at 
page 298 ; where all are arranged according to the order in 
which they take place of each other; the highest, called 
Grand Slam, is, undertaking to get 13 tricks. By engaging 
to do more, the elder hand may, as at Quadrille, supersede 
the younger. If all pass, the cards must be thrown up, and 
dealt by the person to the left of the former dealer, the new 
dealer putting 4 fish into the pool ; and the new eldest hand, 
unless he* has previously passed, may also supersede the de- 
claration of any other, or say 'Pass ;' and so on, till at length 
every person, except one, has 'Passed/ and that person (if he 
has declared 'Boston') is to name the trump, always in the 
choice of the player ; and also (unless he has undertaken more 
294 



BOSTON. 

than 7 tricks) whether he chooses a partner. In the last case, 
any person who engages to get the required number of tricks 
may answer ' Whist :' the right of answering begins with the 
next eldest hand to him who has declared. The partner must 
undertake to get 5 tricks if the player undertakes 7 ; 4, if the 
player undertakes 6 ; and 3 if he undertakes 5, as is in the 
table. When this is settled the playing begins, as at Whist, 
except that the partners may be differently placed, and each 
is to take up his own tricks. 

If the player obtains, or the player and partner jointly get 
the proposed number of tricks, or more, he or they are entitled 
to the fish in the pool, called the Bets, and besides the num- 
ber of tricks which they have won together, added to the 
number of honours they both held, is to be multiplied by the 
number in the table at page 298, over against the tricks they 
undertook, and under the name of the suit the trump was in ; 
whether in the Preference or common suits ; the product must 
then be divided by 10, and the quotient shows the number of 
fish to be paid to each of the successful players, by the other 
two ; or in the event of a Solo to be paid him by each of the 
three others : should the product happen to be less than 10, one 
fish is to be paid nevertheless ; if 15 or upwards, and under 
20, it is to be considered as 20, and two fish to be paid ; if 
25 or upwards, and less than 30, as 30, and so on, viz : 

Suppose the player and partner have undertaken 5 and 3 
tricks, the trump in a common suit; they get 8, their pro- 
posed number, this, if they have no honours, is to be multi- 
plied by one, (because in a common suit) the product is only 
8, which cannot be divided by 10, but one fish is, however, 
paid to both player and partner by the other two. If they 
undertake 5 and 3 tricks, and get 9, the trump in Second 
Preference, no honours, then 9 multiplied by 2 producing 18, 
is considered as 20, and divided by 10, making two fish to be 
paid to each of them. Should they undertake and win 6 and 
4 tricks, the trump in a common suit, having two by honours; 
2 and 10 are 12, which multiplied by 2, as stated in the 
table, make 24, that is, two fish to be paid ; the remainder 
not being taken notice of. 

But if the player, or player and partner do not get their 
tricks, then the number they are deficient, added both to what 
they undertook, and the honours they held, is to be multiplied 

295 



BOSTON. 

by the number found in the table, and divided by 10, to show 
the fish to be paid by them to their antagonists ; for instance, 
when they undertake 5 and 3 tricks, having 2 by honours, 
the trump in a common suit, suppose they get only 6 tricks, 
then 6 subtracted from 8 leave 2, which, added to 8, the 
number they undertook, and 2, the honours they held, make 
12 ; this multiplied by one, and divided by 10, gives one fish. 
If they undertake 5 and 3 tricks, having 2 by honours, the 
trump in Second Preference, should they get but 7, then 1 
they are deficient, added to 8 they undertook, and 2 honours, 
make 11; this multiplied by 2, the number in the table, 
makes 22, which divided by 10, leaves 2, the fish to be paid. 
Should they undertake 6 and 4 tricks, having 4 honours, the 
trump in the First Preference ; suppose they get but 8 tricks, 
8 from 10, leave 2, which added to the 10 they undertook, 
and 4 honours from 16, that multiplied by 8, as in the table, 
make 128, then 130 divided by 10, gives 13 fish to be paid 
by them. 

When the player and partner each fail to get their proposed 
number of tricks, then the fish to be paid by them is to be 
defrayed in equal proportions between them ; exactly the re- 
verse of what would have been done, had they been success- 
ful. But if one gets his number of tricks, and the other fails, 
then the unsuccessful person bears the whole of the loss, and 
when the player is alone, he pays the allotted number of fish 
to each of his three opponents. 

In all failures, whether the player has a partner or not, he 
or they pay a Bast to the pool, equal to the number of fish 
they would have taken from it, had they proved successful; 
this is the invariable rule for assessing the Basts, which are 
not to be directly put into the pool, but laid aside, to be 
brought into the same at a future period, when some success- 
ful person has emptied it of the Bets, and all succeeding 
Basts are to be kept separately, to supply the pool at the end 
of different deals, and till all are exhausted the game cannot 
end, unless after any round is completed, the parties agree to 
share the Basts. 

In respect to playing Mis&re, when a person has any kind 

of hand that he thinks will enable him to lose all the tricks, 

the method is as follows : if he thinks it requisite to get rid 

of any particular card, then the declaration must be only 

296 



BOSTON. 

'Petite Misere;' if this is not superseded by the other players, 
he puts out a card without showing it, and the game com- 
mences, as at "Whist, by the eldest hand, but in playing 
Misere of any kind there are no trumps. The parties (still 
endeavouring to lose their tricks) proceed as at Whist, except 
that the general rules with regard to playing are reversed at 
Misere. 

Whenever the Misere player is obliged to win a trick, the 
deal is at an end, and he is Basted, exactly as in playing 
Boston ; and moreover, is to pay to each of the other persons 
4 fish, as appears in the table : on the contrary, if the 12 
tricks are played without winning one of them, he is entitled 
to the contents of the pool, and also to 4 fish from each of his 
antagonists. After a similar manner, Grande Misere is played, 
with the difference of not putting out a card, and having, of 
course to lose 13 tricks; which, if effected, entitles him to 
the pool, and 8 fish from each of his adversaries ; if other- 
wise, he must pay 8 fish to each of them, and a bast to the 
pool, equal to what he would have taken out, had he gained 
his point. Petite Mis&re Ouverte, and Grande Misere Ouverte 
differ from the foregoing, merely by laying down the cards 
to be played on the table, so as to be seen by all parties (ex- 
cept the card put out, in the case of Petite Misere Ouverte,) 
and the playing is nearly the same ; the only variation in the 
reckoning consists in paying or receiving 16 or 32 fish, ex- 
plained in the Boston table, at the end. 

When the deal is concluded and settled according to the 
afore-gi^en directions, one or two persons will have won and 
taken the contents of the pool, or some, on the contrary, have 
been basted. In the former case, all the parties must furnish 
the pool afresh, as at the beginning : but when either of the 
players is basted, the new dealer has only to add 4 fish to the 
old pool, and so on till some one wins, who is entitled to the 
bets, and then the bast of greatest value (if there are more 
than one) is brought into the pool The basts may be of 
different value, because they are to be equal to the contents 
of the pool at the time of paying each of them, as already 
mentioned. 

If there are several basts, and the players wish to finish the 
game, it will be necessary to put two or more basts into the pool 
at once, or else the parties must share the fish on the table. 

297 






REVERSIS. 



THE 

BOSTON 

TABLE. 


TricV.t to be 
won by the • 


Reckoning for the Game. 


Player. 


Partner. 


,. , . 

First 
Prefer- 
ence. 


Second 
P efer- 

euce. 


C m- 

mon 
Suits. 


iMisere. 


Petite Misere.. 

Petite Misere Ouverte 

Grande Misere Ouverte 
Grand Slam 


5 

6 

7 

8 

9 

io 
n 

12 
13 




3 

4 
5 


4 

8 
12 

16 

20 

24 

28 

32 
36 


2 

4 
6 

8 
10 

a 

14 

16 

18 


1 

2 
3 

4 
5 

*6 

7 

8 
9 


4 

*8 

i6 

32 



REYERSIS. 

AS PLAYED WITH TWO QUINOLAS. 

Reversis is played by four persons, with a box, contain- 
ing* thirty-six fish, twenty-four counters, and six contracts ; 
likewise with two pools, viz., the great and the little Quinola 
pools, ("the great one to be under the little) they are always 
to be placed on the dealer's right hand. 

For reversis the tens must be taken out from a pack of 
cards; the deal is to the right, giving three cards to each 
player the first round, and four to the dealer, afterwards 
always four, so that each of the three players will have eleven 
cards, and the dealer twelve, with three cards remaining 

• Six fish make one counter, and eight counters one contract, or square. 

36 fish 36 

24 counters, each 6 fish • 144 

6 contracts, each 48 fish - - 288 



298 



468 



THE QUINOLAS. 

which are to be placed singly in the middle of the table oppo- 
site to each player, who will put oat a card from his hand, 
under the pools, and will replace it with the card that is on 
the table, opposite to him ; the dealer likewise puts out a 
card, but having none to take in, he will find himself with 
eleven cards, like the rest of the players : these four cards 
form the party : should, however, there be three remises or 
stakes in the pools, (as it i3 convenient to prevent mistakes 
to have some distinguishing mark for each pool, when there 
are three remises or stakes in them; it is not unusual to have 
flags for that purpose, a red one to distinguish the great 
quinola, and a blue one the little quinola :) then it is in the 
player's option to take a card or not, if he does not, he has 
on declaring his intention, permission to see the card, and to 
place it to the discard under the pools. 

Before a card is played, the opposite parties exchange a 
card with each other. 

The ace takes the king, the king the queen, and so on. 

The points in the tricks are forty, each ace reckoning four, 
king three, queen two, and knave one. 

The most interesting parts in this game, are the quinolas, 
the party, the reversis, and the espagnolette. 

THE QUINOLAS. 

The great quinola pool, is to consist of twenty-six fish, 
which number is to be renewed every time the pool is cleared, 
or has fewer in it than the twenty-six fish ) this stake is at- 
tached to the knave of hearts or great quinola, and is one of 
the most important cards in the game ; the great quinola can- 
not be put to the discard, unless there are three stakes or a 
hundred fish in the pool. 

The little quinola pool consisting of thirteen fish, is attached 
to the queen of hearts, as little quinola, which is to be re- 
newed in the same manner, in proportion to the stake as the 
great quinola, and the little quinola cannot be put to the dis- 
card, unless there are three stakes, or fifty fish in the pool. 

Each time the quinolas are placed, or played on a renounce, 
they are entitled to the stakes attached to them, except when 
there are three stakes in the pool, in which case the great 
quinola is entitled to receive only a hundred fish, and the 
little quinola fifty ; and on the contrary, each time the qui« 

299 



REVERSIS. 

nolas are forced, led out, or gorge, the stakes are paid in the 
same proportion as they would have been received, except in 
the single instance of the person who played the quinolas 
making the reversis ; and then in order to derive any benefit 
from the stakes, the quinola which is to be entitled to such 
benefit, must be played before the two last tricks. 

THE PARTY. 

The points in the discard, (to which add four for the party,) 
reckon as in the tricks, with the exception of the ace of dia- 
monds, and the knave of hearts as great quinola ; the former 
reckoning five, and the latter four. 

He who has the fewest points wins the party. It will fre- 
quently happen, that two players will have the same number 
of points ; then he who has the fewest tricks, has the prefer- 
ence ; if points and tricks are equal, then he who is best 
placed wins ; the best placed is he who dealt last ; but he who 
has no trick, has the preference of him who has no trick with- 
out points ; in general in cases of equality the best placed has 
the preference. 

When the espagnolette is played, and won, he wins the 
party in preference to the best placed. 

When every trick is made by one person, there is no party ; 
and this is called (by way of excellence) making the reversis. 

• THE REVERSIS. 

Every trick without exception must be made by one person 
to make the reversis. 

The reversis is undertaken when the first nine tricks are 
made by the same person ; there is then an end of the party 
and of the quinolas ; the great quinola being only as the 
knave of hearts, and the little quinola as the queen of hearts, 
except the person who wins the reversis, plays his quinolas at 
any time before the two last tricks, he is then entitled to the 
stakes ; but on the contrary, should the reversis be broken by 
one of the players winning either of the two last tricks, he 
then not only pays the reversis broken, but the stakes to the 
pools, for the quinolas he may have played before the reversis 
was undertaken. 

All consolations paid for aces or quinolas, by the person 
undertaking the reversis, is to be returned on his winning it. 

300 



THE ESPAGNOLETTE. 
THE ESPAGNOLETTE, OR THE FOUR ACES. 

The espagnolette is either simply four aces, three aces, and 
one quinola, or two aces and two quinolas. 

The player having the espagnolette, has a right to renounce 
in every suit, during the whole game, and if he can avoid 
winning any trick, and there is no reversis, he of course wins 
the party in preference to him who is better placed ; but if 
he is obliged to win a trick, he then pays the party to him 
who would otherwise have received it, and returns the conso- 
lations he may have received for aces or quinolas ; and if he 
has a quinola, he will pay the stake to the pool, instead of 
receiving it, unless a reversis is made upon him. 

The player having the espagnolette, is at liberty to waive 
his privilege, and to play his game as a common one, but 
loses that privilege the moment he has renounced playing in 
suit. 

The espagnolette receives consolation in any part of the 
game, if he forces the quinola, and this can only happen in 
three instances : — 

I. — By playing a heart eldest hand, and the quinola being 
single in some other hand. 

II. — If having through inattention, made a trick during 
the course of the game, he returns a heart, and forces. 

III. — If by being obliged to enter at the tenth trick, or 
choosing to enter sooner, he should have a heart to play, and 
by that means forces it. 

If any person wins the reversis, the espagnolette pays 
singly for all the company. 

If any person undertakes a reversis, and another breaks it, 
the espagnolette pays the whole to the person who broke it. 

The person holding the four aces or espagnolette, can like- 
wise break the reversis^ and is payed as before mentioned, by 
the person whose reversis he broke ; he can likewise under- 
take the reversis, but then his hand must be played as a com- 
mon game, for he cannot renounce. 

If the espagnolette has placed his quinola, and there is a 
reversis either made or broken, he is not to receive the stake ; 
according to the general rule, viz., when the reversis takes 
place, the pools are neither received or paid, except by him 
who undertakes the reversis. 

27 301 



REVERSIS. 

If another player having the ace or king of hearts, the 
espagnolette has in any part of the game, eith»r of his qui- 
nolas forced, he pays the stake, and his consolation the same 
as the two other players, which is due to him that forces, 
except there is a reversis. 

PAYMENTS. 

The dealer always puts two fish into the great quinola pool, 
and one into the little, over and above his common stake of 
six and three, besides which every one puts into the former, 
for the first stake six fish, and into the latter three ; so that 
the great quinola pool, will consist of twenty-six fish, and the 
little quinola pool of thirteen fish ; each time the stakes are 
drawn, or when there are fewer fish in the pool than the first 
original stake, the pool must be replenished as at first. 

The persun who gives an ace upon a renounce, receives a 
fish from the person who wins the trick ; if the ace of dia- 
monds, he will receive two. 

The person who forces an ace, receives the same payments 
from each of the players, as well as the person forced. 

The great quiuola placed upon a renounce, receives six 
fish ; the little quinola placed upon a renounce, receives three 
fish ; and if either of them is forced, the person who forces, 
receives the same payment from each player. 

These payments should be made immediately without being 
asked for. 

One or more aces, or either of the quinolas played or gorge, 
that is, led out, pay the same as if they had been forced, and 
are paid to the person who wins the party, but it is for him to 
recollect and demand them. 

When either ace or quinola are placed, played, or gorge 
the last card, it is called a la bo?ine, and pays double, and 
all payments whatever, are double to the person who sits 
opposite. 

The payment for the reversis made or broke, is eighty fish ; 
each player paying twenty, and the opposite party forty, when 
the reversis is made ; but when it is broken, the whole is paid 
to the person who breaks it, by the person whose reversis is 
broken ; that is, he pays the persons breaking it, exactly the 
same number of fish he would have received from the whole 
table, had he won it. 
302 



LAWS. 
LAWS OP THE GAME OF REVERSIS. 

I. — The eldest hand ought to take care that all the players 
have put their stakes into the pools ; if not, he will pay for 
those whom he has not called upon to pay their stake. 

II. — The person who misdeals, loses his deal. 

III. — If the player takes his card without having put out 
to the discard, the deal goes for nothing. 

IV. — The discard is not to be changed after it is once put 
out. 

V. — The eldest hand should be attentive not to play a card 
till the discard is complete ; should he have played one, he is 
permitted, if nobody has played to it, to take it up and play 
another. 

VI. — No person must play before his turn. 

VII. — He who flings down his game, thinking he has the 
rest of the tricks, is to pay for any ace or quinola that has or 
can be placed or given ; but, in case of a reversis, the person 
who might break it, can oblige him to take up his cards, and 
play them one after another, as the person who can break it 
shall direct. 

VIII. — When a player thinking he has won the party, or 
willing to favor the person who has won it, asks for the aces 
or quinolas led out, before the person who has won the party 
has demanded them, he is to pay for him who might have 
been called upon to pay them. 

IX. — If at the end of the game, it is perceived there is an 
error in the discard, either by putting out too many cards or 
too few, the deal goes for nothing and must be made again ; 
and if it is discovered that a quinola has been put to the dis- 
card, without there being three remises in the pool of the 
quinola so put out ; the person from whose hand such quinola 
was put out to the discard, pays the party, and the stake to 
the pool, the same as if his quinola had been forced or gorge. 

X. — When the cards are cut, it is too late to ask for the 
payment of any ace or quinola, which may have been played 
or gorge ; as likewise for the party or the stake in the pools. 

XI. — Before you play your cards, it is always permitted to 
ask how the cards have been played, but it is not permitted 
to observe it to others who may not make the inquiry. 

XII. — If any player, not having the espagnolette, revokes 

303 



REVERSIS. 

he shaii pay a counter to each of the pools ; and can neither 
receive the party or any payment. 

XIII.-— The player is permitted to examine all his own 
tricks at any time, but not to look at the tricks of any other 
person, the last trick excepted. 

A FEW HINTS TOWARDS PLAYING THE GAME OP REVERSIS. 

There seem to be four great objects in this game ; the first, 
winning the party ; the second, placing the quinoias ; the 
third, making the espagnolette ; and the fourth, making the 
reversis : there is likewise a lesser object, viz., that of 
placing the different aces on a renounce. 

In playing your cards you should endeavour to give your 
quinoias, your aces, and great cards on a renounce, when the 
person who sits opposite to you is likely to make the trick, as 
all the payments are double from him ; if you win the party, 
he may by that means lose it ; and if you lose the party, 
most probably you will not have it to pay to him. 

In order to gain the party, you must avoid, if possible, win- 
ning a trick, for which purpose keep all the lowest cards in 
your hand, such as two's and three's. 

AN ELDER HAND LIKELY TO WIN THE PARTY. 

Suppose the elder hand to be dealt the ace, seven, four, 
and two of spades ; the king, four, and three of clubs ; four 
and two of hearts ; and six and five of diamonds. 

The ace of spades should be put to the discard, because you 
hope from your hand to win the party ; and by discarding a 
high card, you increase its value ; suppose the card you take 
up from the table to be the seven of diamonds, you should 
then given the seven of diamonds to the person who sits oppo- 
site to you, in preference to the king of clubs, with which you 
would have much less chance of winning a trick than with 
the seven of diamonds, because your lowest card in this suit 
is only a five, while that in clubs is a three ; suppose you re- 
ceive in exchange for the seven of diamonds, the queen of 
spades, with this hand you will play your four of hearts to 
force the quinoias : the person who wins the trick will most 
probably do the same, to which you must play your two of 
hearts ; if another heart should be played, then part with your 
six of diamonds, which is a worse card to keep than the king 
304 



HINTS TOWARDS PLAYING. 

of clubs or the queen of spades ; because having the latter 
with three small spades, and the former with two small clubs, 
you have very little chance of winning a trick in those suits, 
and with a five or six of any suit, when hearts have been 
played three or four times, you have a very good chance to 
win a trick with one of them, as every player will, of course, 
fling away their highest cards, unless they suspect a reversis 
is attempted to be played. 

AN ELDER HAND LIKELY TO LOSE THE PARTY. 

An elder hand composed of the king, nine, and eight of 
hearts ; queen, seven, and five of diamonds ; knave, eight, and 
seven of spades ; ace and nine of clubs ; with this hand it is 
most probable you will lose the party ; therefore you should 
put to the discard a card of no value ; for which reason the 
seven of diamonds would be the best card ; suppose in the 
place of which you take up the seven of clubs, having three 
high hearts, it would be highly dangerous to part with one of 
them, as you might receive a quinola from the person who 
sits opposite to you, as well as take one in from the table. 
The queen of diamonds should be given to the person who 
sits opposite to you, which will leave you with only the five of 
diamonds, and give you the best chance should the person who 
is opposite to you give you a quinola to get the lead out of your 
hand. Suppose the person who is opposite to you gives you 
the nine of spades, with this hand you have nothing to do, 
but lead out your king of hearts, and to follow with the nine 
and eight, if not taken, in hopes of forcing the quinolas. If 
they are not forced by your three hearts, and you have still 
the lead, you should play the spades, till all those spades lower 
than your own are out : then you will play your nine of clubs, 
and then your five of diamonds, which if taken and played 
again, you should immediately place your ace of clubs upon 
the renounce. If the diamond was not taken, then play your 
seven of clubs, and with winning that trick in all probability 
you will make the reversis, as you will have the ace of clubs, 
and most probably the best spade remaining. 

AN ELDER HAND WITH THE QUINOLAS. 

An elder hand composed of the knave, seven, six, five, 
four, and two of hearts ; four and five of diamonds ; four, 

27* 305 



REVERSIS. 

three, and two of spades ; with this hand the five of diamonds 
should be put to the discard ; suppose in return you take up 
the two of clubs, you will then give the four of diamonds to 
the person who is opposite to you, who in return gives you 
the queen of hearts ; which with your hand, becomes a valu- 
able present, as most probably you will not get a trick, and 
are sure of placing both your quinolas upon a renounce, and 
cannot possibly have them forced ; with this hand you should 
lead the seven of hearts, which most probably will be taken ; 
you are then sure of winning no trick, and of placing youl 
quinolas, and which you will take care to do with the great 
quinola the very last card, which is called a la bonne, and 
for which you are paid double what you would receive if 
played at any other part of the game. 

A quinola should never be kept in your hand, unless ac- 
companied with three other hearts ; therefore if you have two 
quinolas, and only one heart, you must give that quinola 
which has the greatest remise to the person who is opposite 
to you. If you have both quinolas, and one or two hearts, 
and there are three remises in one pool, or in both, the qui- 
nola, whose three remises are in the pool, should be put to the 
discard, and the other to the person who is opposite to you ; 
if both quinolas have three remises, the great quinola should 
be put to the discard. 

AN ELDER HAND WITH THE ESPAGNOLETTE. 

An elder hand composed of the ace, king, queen, knave, 
four, and two of hearts : the ace of diamonds ; the queen and 
knave of spades; the four and three of clubs ; this hand 
having the espagnolette, or four aces, you should put the king 
of hearts to the discard, to make the party as great as you 
can ; because if you win the espagnolette, you are sure of 
gaining the party, in preference to the person who is better 
placed ; suppose you take up in return the five of spades, you 
will then give the five of spades to the person who sits oppo- 
site, (as giving him too high a card, might assist him in 
making a reversis against your espagnolette) and in return 
receive the seven of clubs ; with this hand you should play the 
four of clubs to get the lead out of your hand : and when 
hearts are played, you must, if possible, not discover too soon, 
by renouncing your espagnolette ; but play a heart in suit 
306 



HINTS TOWARDS PLATING. 

once, preserving, nowever, the two, which may be a card of 
much more consequence to you ; and if more hearts should be 
played, get rid of your spades, and if a second player wins a 
trick, (by which means the reversis cannot be made against 
your espagnolette) give your aces, and if all the hearts have 
been played, give your great quinola a la bonne; but if there 
are yet hearts remaining, you must give it away, and keep 
your lowest cards for the two last tricks. 

AN ELDER HAND PLAYING FOR THE REVERSIS. 

An elder hand composed of the ace, king, queen, knave, 
nine, seven, and four of hearts ; king and two of diamonds ; 
queen and knave of clubs : with this hand in expectation of 
winning the reversis, you should discard the two of diamonds : 
suppose in return you take up the eight of spades ; you will 
then give up the eight of spades to the person who sits oppo- 
site to you, who in return gives you the king of clubs. You 
will then begin playing your ace and king of hearts, and then 
your nine, which will most probably take out all the hearts : 
but you should still play one more, in hopes the ace of clubs will 
be thrown away upon a renounce, (if not already discarded,) 
you will then play your king, queen and knave of clubs ; then 
your queen of hearts, taking care to play the knave of hearts 
before the two last tricks ; because when the reversis is made, 
that quinola which is played in either of the two last tricks, 
does not receive the stakes out of the pool, but becomes sim- 
ply the knave or queen of hearts. 

THE YOUNGEST HAND WINNING THE PARTY, AND PLACING 

THE QUINOLAS. 

Suppose the youngest hand or dealer to have the king, 
knave, eight, six, four, three, and two of hearts ; knave, seven, 
five, three, and two of spades. The dealer having twelve 
cards has the advantage of putting to the discard, without 
taking up a card in return ; having seven hearts the quinola 
cannot be forced ; therefore put out the king of hearts to the 
discard, as from your hand and situation in being best placed, 
you are almost sure of winning the party ; except the espagno- 
lette should be played and won. You will then give the knave 
of spades to the person who sits opposite to you, who in return 

307 



MINOR CARD GAME8. 



gives you the little quinola : with this hand your are sure of 
placing both your quinolas, and of not taking a trick ; the 
only thing therefore (on account of your quinolas) you have 
to fear, is one of the players making the reversis ; which 
would then prevent your having the remises out of the pool. 



MINOR CARD GAMES. 



The catalogue of the Minor Card Games has been far more 
reduced by those which have become obsolete within these last 
hundred years than the list of those played and introduced 
during the nineteenth century will seem to balance. " The 
Compleat Gamester," published in 1734, contains treatises 
upon Ombre, Quintille, Basset, Gleck, French Ruff, Five 
Cards,* Costly Colours, Bone-Ace, Wit and Reason, Art of 
Memory, Plain Dealing, Queen Nazarene, Peneech, Post and 
Pair, Bankafalet, Beeste, the famous game of Verquere, the 
noble and courtly game called Grand Trick Track, Tick Tack, 
Doublets, Slice Ace, Catch Dolt, Inn and Inn, and Passage ; 
games scarcely known by name in the present day, and never 
played. Many of the lesser games popular now, are, no 
doubt, indebted for their existence to the notices of them 
written by Hoyle, and left by him as a revertive legacy to 
those who seek relief from ennui, and the still graver visita- 
tions of life. These " small deer " of the card-player enjoy 
a roving commission. At a loo table you will find as many 
versions of the matter for discussion as men to propose and 
propound them. Commerce is variously conducted in various 
places,— and Matrimony is constantly a source of difference 

of opinion As the best course in this dilemma, we 

have chosen that which seems the most apt. A more conve- 
nient principle than that which Hoyle has adopted in found- 
ing his systems has not been suggested by any who have fol- 
lowed him. For this reason we give most of them from his 
text, departing from him only in a few instances, where we 
have been able to improve. 

• Five Card* is still played in Ireland under the name of Five Finger* 
or Spoilt Five.— Ed. 

308 



CASSINO. 

Oassino is generally played by four people, but occasion- 
ally by three or two ; the points consist of eleven, and the 
lurch is six. 

The points are thus calculate 1 : 

That party which obtains the great cassino 

(or ten of diamonds) reckons 2 points. 

Ditto, little cassino (the deuce of spades).... 1 " 

The four aces one point each 4 " 

The majority in spades 1 u 

The majority of cards 3 " 

Besides a sweep before the end of the game, 
when any player can match all on the 

board, reckons 1 " 

In some deals at this game it may so happen, that neither 
party wins any thing, as the points are not set up according 
to the tricks, &c, obtained, but the smaller number is con- 
stantly substracted from the larger both in cards and points, 
and if they both prove equal, the game commences again, 
and the deal goes on in rotation : when three persons play at 
this game, the two lowest add their points together, and sub- 
tract from the highest; but when their two numbers together 
either amount to or exceed the highest, then neither party 
scores. 

LAWS. 

The deal and partners are determined by cutting, as at 
whist, and the dealer gives four cards by one at a time to 
every player, and either regularly as he deals, or by 1, 2, 3, 
or 4, at a time, lays four more face upwards on the board, and 
after the first cards are played, four others are to be dealt to 
each person till the pack is concluded ; but it is only in the 
first deal that any cards are to be turned up. 

The deal is not lost when a card is faced by the dealer, un- 
less in the first round before any of the four cards are turned 
up on the table; but if a card happens to be faced in the 
pack before any of the said four are turned up, then the deal 
must be begun again. 

309 



CASSINO. 

Any person playing with less than four cards must abide 
by the loss, and should a card be found under the table, the 
player whose number is deficient is to take the same. 

Each person plays one card at a time, with which he may 
not only take at once every card of the same denomination on 
the table, but likewise all that will combine therewith ; as for 
instance, a ten takes not only every ten, but also nine and 
ace, eight and deuce, seven and three, six and four, or two 
fives ; and if he clears the board before the conclusion of the 
game he scores a point, and whenever any player cannot pair 
or combine, then he is to put down a card. 

The number of tricks are not to be examined or counted 
before all the cards are played, nor may any trick but that 
last won be looked at, as every mistake must be challenged 
immediately. 

After all the pack is dealt out, the player who obtains the 
last trick sweeps all the cards then remaining unmatched on 
the table. 

RULES. 

The principal objects are to remember what has been 
played ; and when no pairs or combinations can be made, to 
clear the hand of court cards, which cannot be combined, and 
are only of service in pairing or in gaining the final sweep : 
but if no court cards are left, it is best to play any small ones, 
except aces, as thereby combinations are often prevented. 

In making pairs and combinations a preference should 
generally be given to spades, for obtaining a majority of them 
may save the game. 

When three aces are out, take the first opportunity to play 
the fourth, as it then cannot pair ; but when there is another 
ace remaining, it is better even to play the little cassino, that 
can only make one point, than to risk the ace, which may be 
paired by the opponent, and make a difference of two points ; 
and if great cassino and an ace be on the board prefer the 
ace, as it may be paired or combined, but great cassino can 
only be paired. 

Do not neglect sweeping the board when opportunity offers ; 
always prefer taking up the card laid down by the opponent, 
also as many as possible with one, endeavouring likewise tc 
win the last cards or final sweep. 
310 



CASSINO. — QUINZE. 

While great or little cassino is in, avoid playing either a 
ten or a deuce. 

When you hold a pair, lay down one of them, unless when 
there is a similar card on the table, and the fourth not yet 
out. 

Attend to the adversaries' score, and, if possible, prevent 
them from saving their lurch, even though you otherwise 
seemingly get less yourself, particularly if you can hinder 
them from clearing the board. 

At the commencement of a game, combine all the cards 
possible, for that is more difficult than pairing; but when 
combinations cannot be made, do not omit to pair, and also 
carefully avoid losing opportunities of making tricks. 



QUINZE. 

This is a French game. It is usually played by only two 
persons, and is much admired for its simplicity and fairness ; 
as it depends entirely upon chance, is soon decided, and does 
not require that attention which most other games on the 
cards do : it is, therefore, particularly calculated for those who 
love to sport upon an equal chance. 

It is called Quinze from fifteen being the game; which 
must be made as follows : 

1. The cards must be shuffled by the two players, and when 
they have cut for deal, which falls to the lot of him who cuts 
the lowest, the dealer has the liberty at this, as well as at all 
other games, to shuffle them again. 

2. When this is done, the adversary cuts them ; after which 
the dealer gives one card to his opponent, and one to him- 
self. 

3. Should the dealer's adversary not approve of his card, 
he is entitled to have as many cards given to him, one after 
the other, as will make fifteen, or come nearest to that num- 
ber ; which are usually given from the top of the pack : for 
example. If he should have a deuce, and draws a five, which 
amount to seven, he must continue going on, in expectation 
of coming nearer to fifteen. If he draws an eight, which will 

311 



QUINZB. — CONNEXIONS. 

make just fifteen, he, as being eldest hand, is sure of winning 
the game. But if he overdraw himself, and make more than 
fifteen, he loses, unless the dealer should happen to do the 
same ; which circumstance constitutes a drawn game, and the 
stakes are consequently doubled. In this manner they per- 
severe, until one of them has won the game, by standing, and 
being nearest to fifteen. 

4. At the end of each game, the cards are packed and 
shuffled, and the players again cut for deal. 

6. The advantage is invariably on the side of the elder hand. 



CONNEXIONS. 



This game may be played by either three or four people ) 
if the former number, ten cards each are to be given ; but if 
the latter, then only eight a-piece, which are dealt and bear 
the same import as at whist, except that diamonds are always 
trumps here. 

The connexions are formed as follows, — 

1. By the two black aces. 

2. The ace of spades and king of hearts. 

3. The ace of clubs and king of hearts. 

For the first connexion 2s. are drawn from the pool ; for 
the second Is. ; and for the third, and by the winner of the 
majority in tricks, 6c?. each is taken. These sums are sup- 
posing guineas staked, but when only silver is pooled, then 
pence are drawn. 

A trump played in any round where there is a connexion 
wins the trick, otherwise it is gained by the player of the first 
card of connexion, and after a connexion any following player 
may trump without incurring a revoke, and also whatsoever 
suit may be led, the person holding a card of connexion is at 
liberty to play the same, but the others must, if possible, 
follow suit, unless one of them can answer the connexion, 
which should be done in preference. 

No money can be drawn till the hands are finished, then the 
possessors of the connexions are to take first, according to 
precedence, and those having the majority of tricks take last. 
312 



LOTO. 

For this game, which may be played by an unlimited num- 
ber of persons, boxes containing 100 counters; 14 fishes, 
every one reckoned as ten counters ; 12 contracts, valued at 
ten fish a-piece ; a pack of 24 very large cards, with fifteen 
different numbers marked on each, and in a bag 90 knobs or 
balls, numbered from 1 to 90 ; besides a board with ten cavi- 
ties cut therein, for the purpose of placing the knobs as 
drawn; are sold at the Tunbridge-ware or turners' shops. 
Fresh covers for the cards may be purchased, ready printed, 
and any bookbinder can easily make a new or repair the old 
pack. 

RULES. 

1. Every player should draw two cards, and deposit a stake 
previously agreed upon ; and if the party is not too numerous, 
then any may take four or six cards, laying down a double or 
treble stake accordingly ; and when the players are more than 
twelve, then some are only to have one card, paying half a 
stake, and likewise should the players not take all the cards 
among them, the remainder of the pack is to be laid aside 
until some other persons join the set. From the cards no 
taken, players may exchange one or more of those drawn, or 
they may change with one another ; similar exchanges, if the 
company consent, may also be made previous to each draw- 
ing, and likewise prior to replenishing the pool. Cards may 
be thrown up, or additional ones drawn from those put by ; 
stakes being paid proportionably. 

2. The stakes are to be put together in a pool, placed on 
the middle of the table, and also on the table a quantity of 
counters sufficient for the number of cards taken ; upon the 
counters a value is to be fixed adequate to the stakes first 
deposited, from the whole of which a sum must be reserved, 
enough to pay, at the conclusion of the game, all the counters 
laid upon the table. 

3. Then after counting the 90 knobs so as to be certain 
they are right, the eldest hand shall first shake them well 
Aether in the bag, and afterwards draw out ten successively, 

28 313 



* LOTO. 

not only declaring the number of each as drawn, but also 
placing the same conspicuously on the board. 

4. As soon as the number is declared, each player having 
the same on one or more cards, is to take up counters suffi- 
cient to lay one upon that number every time it occurs, and 
so on until the ten knobs are drawn. 

5. When only part of the pack is taken, and a number 
drawn happens not to be upon any player's card, then the 
players may put away that knob till some person takes the 
card on which it is printed. 

6. When ten knobs are drawn out, every player examining 
the cards separately, and having only one counter upon any 
horizontal line, wins for that no more than the said counter, 
which is styled gaining by abstract ; where two counters are 
on the same horizontal line of a separate card, the player 
gains an ambo, and becomes entitled to five counters, besides 
the two; when three are upon the same line, the player ob- 
tains a terne, and is to receive 25 additional counters ; if four 
are on the same line, that is called a quateme, winning 100 
counters additional ; when five occur on the same line, that 
makes a quintcrne, gaining 250 additional counters, and the 
player is entitled to payment out of the pool for all the above- 
mentioned acquisitions previous to another drawing. Instead 
of giving counters, payment for the same may at once be made 
from the stock in the pool. 

7. The knobs are then to be returned, and the bag given 
to the next player in rotation, who is to shake the same, and 
draw, &c, as before stated. 

8. Whenever the pool is exhausted, the players must con- 
tribute again, according to the number of cards taken; and 
when it is resolved to finish the game, they agree among 
themselves to have only a fixed number of drawings more. 

9. At the last drawing each player proceeds as heretofore 
directed, but the drawing concludes when no more counters 
are left on the table. The players then beginning with the 
eldest-hand, are to be paid out of the pool, as far as the mo- 
ney will go ; and when that is expended, the others remain 
unpaid, which is styled a Bankruptcy ; next the players are 
to re-unite the counters with those that were on their cards, 
and receive payment for them out of the fund reserved at the 
commencement of the game. 

314 



POPE, OR POPE JOaN. 

10. There are also cards of a new combination, which ina; 
be played by 6 = 12 = 18 = or 24, observing that when si* 
cards only are taken, but one counter is given ; if 12, two ; 
if 18, three ; and when 24, four counters ; and also when but 
six cards are taken, they must be either from 1 to 6 — 7 to 
12—13 to 18— or 19 to 24 j if 12 cards, from 1 to 12— or 13 
to 24 — for 18 cards, from 1 to 18 ; and when 24, the whole 
number. 

11. The counters may refer for the payment to the amount 
of the stakes deposited in the stock. 

For 24 cards .... 144 times 10 

" 18 « .... 108 " 10 

" 12 " .... 72 " 10 

" 6 " . ...... 36 " 10 

There are other methods of playing at Loto, but the before- 
mentioned is the most approved. 



POPE, on POPE JOAN. 

Pope, a game somewhat similar to that of Matrimony, 
is played by a number of people, who generally use a board 
painted for this purpose, which may be purchased at most 
turners' or toy shops. 

The eight of diamonds must first be taken from the pack, 
and after settling the deal, shuffling, &c, the dealer dresses 
the board by putting fish, counters, or other stakes, one each 
to ace, king, queen, knave, and game; two to matrimony, 
two to intrigue, and six to the nine of diamonds, styled Pope. 
This dressing is in some companies at the individual expense 
of the dealer, though in others the players contribute two 
stakes apiece towards the same. 

The cards are next to be dealt round equally to every 
player, one turned up for trump, and about six or eight left 
in the stock to form stops; as for example, if the ten of 
spades is turned up, the nine consequently becomes a stop ; 
the four kings and the seven of diamonds are always fixed 
stops, and the dealer is the only person permitted in the 
course of the game to refer occasionally to the stock for infor- 
mation what other cards are stops in that respective deal. 

315 






VINGT-UN. 

If either ace, king, queen, or knave, happens to be the 
turned-up trump, the dealer takes whatever is deposited on 
that head ; but when Pope is turned up, the dealer is entitled 
both to that and the game, besides a stake for every card 
dealt to each player. Unless the game is determined by 
Pope being turned up, the eldest hand begins by playing out 
as many cards as possible ; first the stops, then Pope if he 
has it, and afterwards the lowest card of his longest suit, par- 
ticularly an ace, for that never can be led through ; the other 
players are to follow when they can, in sequence of the same 
suit, till a stop occurs, and the party having the said stop, 
thereby becomes eldest-hand, and is to lead accordingly, and 
so on, until some person parts with all his cards, by which he 
wins the pool (game,) and becomes entitled besides to a stake 
for every card not played by the others, except from any one 
holding Pope, which excuses him from paying; but if Pope 
has been played, then the party having held it is not excused, 
having already received the stakes for that card. 

King and queen form what is denominated matrimony, 
queen and knave make intrigue, when in the same hand ) but 
neither they, nor ace, king, queen, knave, or pope, entitle the 
holder to the stakes deposited thereon, unless played out, and 
no claim can be allowed after the board is dressed for the 
succeeding deal ; but in all such cases the stakes are to re- 
main for future determination. 

This game only requires a little attention to recollect what 
stops have been made in the course of the same ; as for in- 
stance, if a player begins by laying down the eight of clubs, 
then the seven in another hand forms a stop, whenever that 
suit is led from any lower card, or the holder when eldest 
may safely lay it down in order to clear his hand. 



VINGT-UN. 

Vingt-un, or twenty-one, is very similar to Quinze, and 
may be played by two or more people. It is essentially a 
family game, and when played as such, the stakes are usually 
represented by counters, which may be of any value ; say, 
sixpence the dozen, or more. It is common to limit the 
316 



VINGT-UN. 

stakes to be laid to a dozen of counters, or the amount in 
money which they represent. As the deal is advantageous, 
and often continues long with the same person, it is usual to 
determine it at the commencement by the first ace turned up, 
or any other mode that may be agreed upon. 

The deal is retained by the person who commences, until 
a natural vingt-un occurs, when it passes to the next in rota- 
tion.* (The old mode of play, however, is, that in the case 
of a natural vingt-un the deal passes to the holder, and many 
still adhere to this custom. This item of the game must, 
therefore, be regulated by the custom of the table, or be pre- 
viously agreed.) The pony or youngest hand should collect 
the cards that have been played, and shuffle them together 
ready for the dealer against the period when he shall have 
distributed the whole pack. 

The dealer begins by giving two cards, one at a time, face 
downwards, to each player, including himself. After the 
first card has been dealt round, each places his stake upon it 
(which may, if he chooses, be as low as a single counter,) and 
then receives the second card; but the dealer, upon the stakes 
being all laid, and before proceeding with the deal, looks at 
his own card, and if he thinks proper (having perhaps an ace, 
ten, or court card,) he may double the stakes, which he an- 
nounces by crying l double/ He then distributes a second 
card to each, and lastly to himself. Should he chance to 
have a natural vingt-un, he declares it at once, before any 
more cards are dealt, and collects the stakes (which, by a 
vingt-un, are doubled,) but should he have drawn less than 
21, the game proceeds thus : — The dealer enquires of each 
player in rotation, beginning with the eldest hand on the left, 
whether he stands, or wishes for another card, which, if re- 
quired, must be given from off the top (face upwards) of the 
pack, and afterwards another, or more, if requested, till the 
points of the additional card or cards, added to those dealt, 
exceed or make 21 exactly, or such a number less than 21, 
as the player may choose to stand upon ; but when the points 
exceed 21, the player is technically said to have overdrawn, 
and his cards are to be thrown up forthwith, and the stake laid 
on them paid to the dealer. When the dealer has gone the 

• Should a natural vingt-un occur in the first round it does not put out, 
the dealer being allowed a misericorde. 

28* 317 



VINGT-UN. 

round of the table in this manner, he turns up his own cards 
to the view of the company, and should he have any number 
of points, between, say from 17 to 20, he usually " stands/' 
that is, pits his cards against the other players. Those under 
his number, as well as ties,* pay ; those above it receive. If 
the dealer should have only 14 or 15 points in his first hand, 
the chances would be against him, were he to stand on so 
small a number. He would therefore draw another card, and 
should this be a very low one (an ace or a deuce,) and he have 
reason to suppose, by the extra cards dealt round, that he had 
to contest high numbers, he would draw again, and if he ob- 
tained 19 or 20 points would then probably win on more than 
he loses; the average of chances being in his favor; if by 
drawing he should happen to make up 21, he would receive 
double from all, excepting from the ties and those who had 
already thrown up ; if more than 21, he would have to pay 
all who stand, paying the vingt-uns double. 

Should either the dealer or a player happen to turn up two 
cards of the same denomination, for instance, two aces, 
deuces, or any other number, or two kings, two queens, &c, 
he would have the choice of going on both, and should the 
next card he draws be a triplicate, he may go on all three. 
If the cards happen to be aces, which count either as 1 or 11, 
at the option of the player, and if by great luck he should 
successively draw three tens, or Court cards, thus making 
threa natural vingt-uns, he would obtain double stakes upon 
each, therefore six times as much as the stakes placed on the 
various hands, and should he, on laying his first card, have 
cried " double," the stakes payable, would, in such case, be 
twice doubled, therefore upon the three cards twelve-fold. 
This is an extreme case, cited merely to show the nature of 
the game. It commonly happens, however, that when either 
dealer or player " goes " on several cards, he loses on one or 
more, and thus neutralizes his gains. Players, as already 
intimated, have the same right of " going " on several cards, 
as the dealer. 

When any player has a vingt-un, and the dealer not, then 
the player wins double stakes from him ; in other cases, ex 
cept a natural vingt-un happens, the dealer pays single stakes 

* Ties are the principal advantage of the dealer. 

318 



VINGT-UN. 

to all whose numbers under 21 are higher than his own, and 
receives from those who have lower numbers ; players who 
tiave similar numbers to the dealer pay ; and when the dealer 
draws more than 21, he overdraws, and has to pay to all who 
have not thrown up, as already stated. 

Twenty-one, whensoever dealt in the first two cards, is 
styled a Natural Vingt-un, and should be declared immedi- 
ately. Hoyle says that this entitles the possessor to the deal, 
besides double stakes from all the players, unless there shall 
be more than one natural vingt-un, in which case the younger 
hand or hands so having the same, are exempted from paying 
to the eldest. But this rule, like that mentioned at page 
318, is nearly obsolete. It is not now customary to allow 
any except the dealer to take double stakes from the company, 
in respect to his natural vingt-un. 

One of the first thoughts of the dealer, after the cards have 
been cut, should be to look for Brulet, which is a natural 
vingt-un formed by the bottom and top card, when they hap- 
pen to be an ace and tenth card. The card or cards looked 
at must be thrown out, and mixed with those collected by 
the pony. Brulet either clears the board of the stakes laid, 
(usually one or two counters levied on each player, at the 
commencement of every game, and collected into a tray,) or 
takes the amount of the limit (perhaps Qd.) from each, as 
may be agreed. 

The deal, it should be observed, may be sold to the best 
bidder, and, as it is undoubtedly of some advantage, a buyer 
will generally be found. But should a timid player object 
to the deal, and no buyer be found, he may decline it, and so 
let it pass to the next. 

N. B. An ace, as already intimated, may be reckoned 
either as 11 or 1 : every court-card is counted as 10, and the 
rest of the pack according to their points. 

The odds of this game merely depend upon the average 
quantity of cards likely to come under or exceed 21 ; for ex- 
ample, if those in hand make 14 exactly, it is 7 to 6 that the 
one next drawn does not make the number of points above 21, 
but if the points be 15, it is 7 to 6 against that hand ; yet it 
would not therefore always be prudent to stand at 15, for as 
the ace may be calculated both ways, it is rather above an 
even bet that the adversary's two first cards amount to more 

319 



VINGT-UN. — LANSQUENET. 

than 14. A natural vingt-un maj be expected once in 7 
coups when two, and twice in 7, when four people play, and 
so on according to the number of players. 



LANSQUENET. 

This game may be played by almost any number of people, 
although only one pack of cards is used at a time, during each 
deal.* The dealer, who has rather an advantage, begins by 
shuffling the cards, and having them cut by any other person 
of the party; after which he deals out two cards on his left- 
hand, turning them up ; then one for himself, and a fourth, 
which he places in the middle of the table for the company, 
called the rejouissance card. Upon this card any, or all of the 
company, except the dealer, may put their money, either a 
limited or unlimited sum, as may be agreed on, which the 
dealer is obliged to answer, by staking a sum equal to the 
whole that is put upon it by different persons. He continues 
dealing, and turning the cards upwards, one by one, till two 
of a sort appear; for instance, two aces, two deuces, &c. 
which in order to separate, and that no person may mistake 
for single cards, he places on each side of his own card ; and 
as often as two, three, or the fourth card of a sort comes up, 
he always places them, as before said, on each side of his 
own. Any single card the company has a right to take and 
put their money upon, unless the dealer's own card happens 
to be double, which often occurs by this card being the same 
as one of the two cards which he first of all dealt out on his 
left-hand. Thus he continues dealing till he brings either 
their cards, or his own. As long as his own card remains un- 
drawn he wins ; and whichever card comes up first, loses. If 
he draws or deals out the two cards on his left, which are 
called the hand-cards, before his own, he is entitled to deal 
again ; the advantage of which is no other, than being ex- 
empted from losing when he draws a similar card to his own, 
immediately after he has turned up one for himself. 

* A3 the game is now played in France, four, and even more, packs of 
cards are mixed together. 

320 



tANSQUENET. — I>Ul\ 

This game is often played more simply without the rejoui*- 
sance card, giving every person round the table a card to put 
their money upon. Sometimes it is played by dealing only 
two cards, one for the dealer, and another for the company. 



PUT. 

We will borrow the opinions and views of this little con- 
trivance against time — as broached by Mr. Seymour in his 
volume written for the especial behoof of the young princesses 
— and append to them Mr. Hoyle's observations on it. 

" Put is the ordinary rooking-game of every place ; and 
Beems, by the few cards that are dealt, to have no difficulty 
in the play ; but there is great craft and cunning in it. 

" If you play at either Two or Three-handed Put, the best 
put-card deals. Having shuffled the cards, the adversary cuts 
them ; then the dealer deals one to his antagonist, and another 
to himself, till they have three a-piece : five up, or a Put is 
commonly the game. The eldest, if he hath a good game, 
and thinks it better than his adversary's, puts to him ; if the 
other will not, or dare not see him, he then wins one ; but if 
he will see him, they play it out, and he who wins two tricks, 
or all three, wins the whole set ; but if each wins a trick, 
and third tied, neither win, because it is trick and tye. 

" Sometimes they play without putting ; and then the win- 
ner is he that wins most tricks. In playing keep up your 
cards very close ; for the least discovery of any one of them, 
is a great advantage to him who sees it. 

u This game consists very much in daring ; for a mettled 
gamester will put boldly upon very bad cards sometimes, as 
upon a five, seven and a nine ; the other thinking there are 
good cards in his adversary's hand, having very indifferent 
ones in his own, dares not see him ; and so by going to stock, 
loseth one. He who once hath the confidence to put on bad 
cards, cannot recal his putting, by which means he frequently 
pays for his bravado. 

" The best Put-cards are, first, the tray, next, the deuce, 
then the ace ; the rest follow in pre-eminence, as king, queen, 

321 



PUT. — ALL FOURS. 

knave ten, and so onwards, to the four, which is the meanest 
card at Put. 

" Put, played with a complete pack, generally by two people, 
sometimes by three, and often by four, is a game at which the 
cards rank differently from all others, tray being the best, next 
the deuce, then ace, king, and so on in the usual order. After 
cutting for deal, &c, at which the highest Put-card wins, three 
cards, by one at a time, are given to each player, then the 
game is played in the following way. If the non-dealer throws 
up his cards, he loses a point; if he plays, and the dealer does 
not lay down another to it, he gains a point ; but, should the 
dealer either win the same, pass it, or lay down one of equal 
value, forming what is termed a tie, the non-dealer is still at 
liberty to put, that is play, or not, and his opponent then only 
gains a point; then if both parties agree to go on, whoever 
gains all the tricks or two out of three, wins five points, which 
are the game ; if each player obtains one trick, and the third 
is a tie, then neither party scores. 

" Four-handed Put differs only in that any two of the players 
give each their best card to his partner, who then lays out one 
of his, and the game is afterwards played as in two-handed Put. 

" If the dealer turns up any of his adversary's cards, another 
deal may be demanded ; but when he shows his own, he is to 
abide by them : and should a faced card occur, the pack must 
be shuffled and dealt again : when more cards than necessary 
are given to the non-dealer, he may either claim a fresh deal, 
or have the extra cards drawn out; but should the dealer give 
himself too many, then his opponent is entitled to a point, 
and may either have another deal, or draw the supernumerary 
cards. Bye-standers ought never to interfere, under penalty 
of paying the stakes. Either party saying ' I put/ must abide 
the event of the game, or pay the stakes." 



ALL FOURS. 



This game, usually played by two people, sometimes by 

four, with a complete pack, derives its name from the four 

chances therein, for each of which a point is scored, namely, 

high, the best trump out; low, the smallest trump dealt; 

322 






ALL FOURS. 

jack, the knave of trumps; game, the majority of pips reck- 
oned from such of the following cards as the respective play- 
ers havo in their tricks; viz., every ace is counted as 4; king, 
3; queen 2; knave 1; and ten for 10. Low is always scored 
by the person to whom it was dealt ; but jack being the pro- 
perty of whoever can win or save it, the possessor is permitted 
to revoke and trump with that card : and when turned up as 
trump the dealer scores ; it is also allowable for the player 
who lays down a high or low trump to inquire at the time 
whether the same be high or low. 

After cutting for deal, at which either the highest or lowest 
card wins, as previously fixed, six cards are to be given to each 
player, either by three or one at a time, and the 13th turned 
up for trump; then if the eldest does not like his card, he 
may, for once in a hand, sa}-, / Leg, when the dealer must 
aither give a point or three more curds to each, and turn up 
the 7th for trump ; but if that should prove of the same suit 
is the first turned up, then three cards more are to be given, 
and so on till a different suit occurs. The cards rank as at 
whist, and each player should always strive to secure his own 
tens and court cards, to take those of the adversary, to obtain 
which, except when commanding cards are held, it is usual to 
play a low one to throw the lead into the opponent's hand. 
Ten or eleven points form the game, which may be set up as 
at Whist, though a very customary method is to draw two 
cards from the pack, and lay them one on the other, so as to 
exhibit only the number of pips the player has gained. 

When the dealer shews any of his adversary's cards a new 
deal may be demanded, but in shewing his own he must abide 
by the same. 

If discovered, previous to playing, that too many cards are 
given to either party, a fresh deal may be claimed, or the extra 
cards drawn out by the opponent ; but should even a single 
card have been played, then there must be another deal. 

With strict players the adversary may score a point when- 
ever his opponent does not trump or follow suit, and each cal- 
culates his game without inspecting the tricks, which when 
erroneously set up must not only be taken down, but also the 
antagonist either scores four points or one as shall have been 
agreed on. 

323 



SPECULATION. 

This is a lively round game, that several may play, using a 
somplete pack of cards bearing the same import as at Whist, 
with fish or counters, on which such a value is fixed as the 
company agree ; the highest trump in each deal, wins the 
pool ; and whenever it happens that not one is dealt, then the 
company pool again and the event is decided by the succeed- 
ing coup. After determining the deal, &c, the dealer pools 
six fish, and every other player four; next three cards are 
given to each by one at a time, and another turned up for 
trump ; the cards are not to be looked at, except in this man- 
ner, — the eldest hand shews the uppermost card, which if a 
trump, the company may speculate on or bid for ; the highest 
bidder buying and paying for it, provided the price offered is 
approved of by the seller. After this is settled, or if the first 
card does not prove trump, then the next eldest shews the 
uppermost card, and so on, the company speculating as they 
please, till all are discovered ; when the possessor of the high- 
est trump, whether by purchase or otherwise, gains the pool. 

The holder of the trump card, whether acquired by pur- 
chase or otherwise, has the privilege of keeping his cards 
concealed till all the rest have been turned up. 

To play this game well, little more is requisite than recol- 
lecting what superior cards of that particular suit have ap- 
peared in the preceding deals, and calculating the probability 
of the trump offered proving the highest in the deal then 
undetermined. 



LOO. 

Loo or Lue, is subdivided into limited and unlimited Loo, 
a game the complete knowledge of which can easily be ac- 
quired, is played two ways, both with five and three cards, 
though most commonly with five cards dealt from a whole 
pack, either first three and then two, or by one at a time. 
Several persons may play together, but the greatest number 
can be admitted when with three cards only. 

After five cards have been given to each player another is 
324 



LOO. 

turned up for trump ; the knave of clubs generally, or some- 
times the knave of the trump suit, as agreed upon, is the high- 
est card and styled Pam ; the ace of trumps is next in value, 
and the rest in succession, as at Whist. Each player has the 
liberty of changing for others from the pack all or any of the 
five cards dealt, or of throwing up the hand in order to escape 
being looed. Those who play their cards either with or with- 
out changing, and do not gain a trick, are looed ; as is like- 
wise the case with all who have stood the game, when a flush 
or flushes occur, and each, except any player holding Pam, or 
an inferior flush, is required to deposit a stake to be given to 
the person who sweeps the board, or divided among the win- 
ners at the ensuing deal, according to the tricks which may 
then be made. For instance, if every one at dealing stakes 
half-a-crown, the tricks are entitled to sixpence apiece, and 
whoever is looed must put down half-a-crown, exclusive of the 
deal ; sometimes it is settled that each person looed shall pay 
a sum equal to what happens to be on the table at the time. 
Five cards of a suit, or four with Pam, compose a flush, which 
sweeps the board, and yields only to a superior flush, or the 
elder hand. When the ace of trumps is led, it is usual to 
say " Pam be civil/' the holder of which last-mentioned card 
is then expected to let the ace pass. 

Any player having a flush, or five cards of a suit in his 
hand, looes all the parties then playing, and sweeps the 
board. 

When Loo is played with three cards, they are dealt hy 
one at a time, Pam is omitted, and the cards are not ex- 
changed nor permitted to be thrown up. 

In different companies these games are frequently played 
with a few trifliDg variations from the manner as before stated. 

One of the most usual variations in three card loo is the 
laying out of two or three extra hands, which are called 
Misses. These may be exchanged with their own hands by 
any of the players, the elder having the first choice, and the 
others according to their turn, the dealer being last. It com- 
monly happens that the first two or three players avail them- 
selves of their option, so that it rarely comes round to the 
dealer. The Miss, which is to be taken at a venture, without 
previous inspection, must be played. 

29 325 



LOTTEKY. 

Of the minor games of cards, Lottery is with out doubt one 
of the most amusing. A great excellence of the game is, 
that it is most agreeable when there is a great number of 
players ; for it may be played by ten, twelve, or more ; but 
not well with less than four or five players. Two entire 
packs of cards are employed, one of which serves for the 
tricks, and the other for the lots or prizes. Each player 
should take a certain number of counters, more or less, that 
and their value depending on the will of the players. 
These points being settled, every one gives the counters he 
has, for his stake, and these being collected into a box or 
purse, on the middle of the table, compose the fund of the 
Lottery. 

The players being all ranged round the table, two of them 
take the two packs of cards, and as it is of no importance 
who deals, as there is no advantage in being eldest or young- 
est, the cards are commonly presented in compliment to some 
two of the players. The dealers, after well shuffling the cards, 
have them cut by their left-hand neighbours, and one of them 
deals a card to each player ; all these cards are to remain 
turned, and are called the lots; each player then places on his 
lot what number of counters he thinks proper ; they should 
observe, however, to make them one higher than the other, 
that there may be as few as possible of the same value. The 
lots being thus prized, he who has the other pack deals like- 
wise to each player one card, which are called the tickets; 
each player having received his card, the lots are then turned, 
and each examines whether his ticket answers to any of the 
lots; for example, if any of the lots are, the knave of clubs, 
the queen of hearts, the ace of spades, the eight of clubs, the 
six of diamonds, the four of hearts, the three of spades, and 
the two of diamonds ; he or they, whose cards correspond to 
any of those, take up the lot or prize that is marked on that 
card. 

The two dealers then collect those cards that belong to their 
respective packs, and after having shuffled them, deal again 
in the same manner as before, the lots being laid down and 
drawn by the tickets, in the manner we have just mentioned; 
and such lots as remain undrawn, are to be added to the fund 
326 






LOTTERY. COMMERCE. 

of the lottery. This continues till the fund is all drawn out, 
after which each player examines what he has won, and the 
stakes are paid in money by him who drew the lottery ; whose 
business it is to collect and divide it. 

If the party should last too long, instead of giving only 
one card to each for his ticket, you may give two, three, or 
even four, one after the other, according as you would have 
the party continue ; the increasing the value of the lots like- 
wise, helps greatly to shorten the party. 

Another method is, to take at random three cards out of 
one of the packs, and place them, face downward, on a board 
or in a bowl on the table for the prizes, then every player 
purchases from the other pack any number of cards for tickets 
as may be most agreeable, paying a fixed sum or certain quan- 
tity of counters for each, which sums or counters are put in 
different proportions on the three prizes to be gained by those 
who happen to have purchased corresponding cards, and such 
that happen not to be drawn are continued till the next deal. 

This game may be played with a single pack, by separating 
the same into two divisions, each containing a red and black 
suit. 



COMMERCE. 



Of this there are two distinct methods of playing, the new 
and the old mode. The new way is played by any number of 
persons, from three to twelve, with a complete pack of 52 cards, 
bearing the same import as at Whist, only the ace is reckoned 
as eleven. Every player has a certain quantity of counters 
on which a fixed value is put, and each, at every fresh deal, 
lays down one for the stake. Sometimes the game is continued 
until, or finished when, one of the players has lost all the 
counters given at the commencement; but in order to prevent 
it from being spun out to an unpleasant length, or concluded 
too soon, it is often customary to fix the duration to a deter- 
minate number of tours or times, that the whole party shall 
deal once each completely round. 

After determining the deal, the dealer, styled also the 
banker shuffles the pack, which is to be cut by the left hand 
player ; then three cards, either altogether or one by one, at 

327 



COMMERCE. 

the dealer's pleasure, are given to each person, beginning on 
the right hand, but none are to be turned up. If the pack 
proves false, or the deal wrong, or should there be a faced 
card, then there must be a fresh deal. 

At this game are three parts : 1st, That which takes place 
of all others, called the tricon, or three cards of the same de- 
nomination, similar to pair-royal at Cribbage : 2dly, the next 
in rank is the sequence, or three following cards of the same 
suit, like tierce at Piquet : and lastly, the point, being the 
greatest number of pips on two or three cards of a suit in any 
one hand; of all which parts the highest disannuls the lower. 

After the cards have been dealt round, the banker enquires, 
u Who will trade ?" which the players beginning with the 
eldest hand, usually and separately answer by saying, " For 
ready money," or " I barter." Trading for money is giving a 
card and a counter to the banker, who places the card under 
the stock or remainder of the pack styled the bank, and re- 
turns in lieu thereof another card from the top. The counter 
is profit to the banker, who consequently trades with the stock 
free from expense. Barter is exchanging a card without p*ay 
with the next right hand player, which must not be refused, 
and so on, the players trade alternately, till one of them ob- 
tains the object aimed at, and thereby stops the Commerce ; 
then all show their hands, and the highest tricon, sequence, 
or point wins the pool. The player who first gains the wished 
for tricon, &c, should show the same immediately, without 
waiting till the others begin a fresh round, and if any one 
chooses to stand on the hand dealt, and show it without trad- 
ing, none of the junior players can trade that deal, and if 
the eldest hand stands, then of course no person can trade. 

The banker always ranks as eldest hand, in case of neither 
tricon or sequence, when the game is decided by the point. 
Whenever the banker does not gain the pool, then he is to 
pay a counter to that player who obtains the same, and if the 
banker possesses tricon, sequence, or point and does not win 
the pool, because another player has a better hand, then he is 
to give a counter to every player. 

Commerce the old way is played by several persons together, 

every one depositing a certain sum in the pool, and receiving 

three fish or counters a-piece, on which a value is fixed; 

as suppose sixpences are pooled, the counters then may be 

328 



. 



COMMERCE. — BRAG. 

rated at Id. or lid. each, so as to leave a sum for that player 
who gains the final sweep. After determining the deal, three 
cards, beginning on the left hand, are given to every player, 
and as many turned up on the board by one at a time. 

This game is gained, as at the other, by pairs, sequences, 
or flushes, and should the three cards turned up be such as 
the dealer approves of, he may, previous to looking at the 
hand dealt to himself, take them so turned up in lieu of his 
own, but then must abide by the same, and cannot afterwards 
exchange any during that deal. All the players, beginning 
with the eldest hand, may in rotation change any card or 
cards in their possession for such as lie turned up on the 
table, striving thereby to make pairs-royal, sequences, or 
flushes, and so on round again and again, till all have refused 
to change, or are satisfied, but every person once standing 
cannot change again that deal. Finally the hands are all 
shown, and the possessor of the highest pair-royal, &c, or the 
eldest hand if there are more than one of the same value, takes 
the sum agreed upon out of the pool, and the person having 
the worst hand, puts one fish or counter therein, called 
" Going up." The player, whose three are first gone off", has 
the liberty of purchasing one more, called, " Buying a Horse/' 
for a sum as agreed, usually one-third of the original stake, 
to be put into the pool. After that, every player, whose fish 
are all gone, sits by till the game is concluded, which finishes 
by the person who continues the longest on the board, thereby 
gaining tne pool or final sweep. 



BRAG. 

This is taken from the text of Seymour — whose quaint 
spirit and phrases are singularly suited to the subject. 

At this game, the whole pack is dealt round the table to all 
who are desirous to share in the gain and diversion. As many 
play at it as the cards will hold out to supply ; he dealing 
three a-piece to each of the gamesters at one time, turning up 
the last card all round, belonging to every one present. 

Each gamester is to put down three stakes, one for each 
card, as much, or as little as the humours of the company will 
consent to ; whether three guineas, three crowns, three shil- 
lings, three sixpences, or what other stakes, according to their 

29* 329 



BRAG. 

qualities and purposes, is thought convenient : And this being 
done, the manner of playing the game is as follows : 

The best card turned up in the dealing round, in its de- 
gree, beginning from ace, king, queen, knave, and so down- 
wards, through all the cards of the players, wins the first 
stake ; and the person who has the luck to have it dealt him, 
is to demand it from the rest j who pay it accordingly, unless 
the ace of diamonds be turned up amongst them ; which if 
shown, by a superior authority in the game, is to be preferred, 
and wins the stake. And observe, that though the eldest 
hand, who has an ace, carries it from the re<t by a kind of 
descent, yet the ace of diamonds, by the aforesaid authority, 
even in the youngest hand, which is the last card that is dealt, 
wins the stake from any other turned up before. 

The next principal matter, and the main thing by which 
the second stake is to be won, is called the Brag, which, by 
the ingenuity of its management, gives the game its denomi- 
nation. The nature of it is. that you are to endeavour to 
impose upon the judgment of the rest who play, and particu- 
larly on the person who chiefly offers to oppose you, by boast- 
ing of cards in your hand, whether pairs-royal, pairs or others, 
that are better than his or hers who plays against you. The 
best cards you can have really to brag of, are a pair-royal of 
aces, the next of kings, queens, &c. A pair-royal of any sort 
winning from any pair oi the best sort, as a pair of any sort 
wins of any other cards that are not pairs. 

But here you are to observe, that the witty ordering of this 
brag, is the most pleasant part of the game ; for those who by 
fashioning their looks and gestures, can give a proper air to 
their actions, as will so deceive an unskilful antagonist, that 
sometimes a pair of fives, trays, or deuces, in such a hand, 
with the advantage of his composed countenance, and subtle 
manner of over-awing the other, shall out-brag a much greater 
pair-royal, and win the stakes with great applause and laugh- 
ter on his side from the whole company. 

The knave of clubs, is here, as principle a favorite as at Loo, 
and makes a pair with any other card in hand, or with any- 
other two cards a pair-royal, and is often in this game very ne- 
cessary, to advance the credit of the brag, to him who has the 
assurance of imposing upon the company ; and by such conve- 
nient confidence, the advantage of winning the second stake 
330 



BRAG. 



The third stake is won by the person who first makes up the 
cards in his hand thirty-one, each ace, king, queen, knave, 
&c. going for ten, and drawing from the pack, as is usual in 
that game : or, instead of the thirty-one, if his fortune will 
not oblige him, the nearest to it may win, he having the 
privilege to draw, or not to draw, as he pleases, according aa 
he finds it convenient, by the cards that are in his hand; for 
if he draws out, he loses his third stake. 

Some very nice players at this game make the nine of dia- 
monds a second favorite card, with the knave of clubs, to 
make a pair-royal of aces; so that those two joined with one 
natural ace, shall win from any pair-royal of kings, queens, 
knaves, or any other cards, but a pair-royal of natural aces. 

The person who is so lucky to win all the three stakes, is 
to be rewarded by the whole company of gamesters round the 
table, with three stakes more, if they play the strictness of 
the game ; which necessarily makes the winnings and losings 
amount to a considerable sum of money. But very often our 
modern gamesters waive this particular, and out of a decent 
regard to their pockets, content themselves with the satisfac- 
tion of the pleasure of the brag, rather than trust to the un- 
common good fortune of winning the three stakes, from the 
rest of the disappointed company. 

The deal is to go round from person to person ; and by the 
different management of the brag, you may find very great 
diversion, some doing it so awkwardly, with so little cunning, 
and so ill an address, that the defects or value of their game 
will presently be discovered, whilst others with a more artful 
assurance, and by their subtle management, will wittily ban- 
ter and impose upon their adversaries, and seldom fail of 
their designed profit. 

It is not fair for any of the gamesters, that sit near him 
who makes the brag, to peep into his hand, or by any mute 
sign or token to give the opposer any knowledge of the cards 
that he has in his hand ; because it may chance that the op- 
positions, natural to this game, may draw on a considerable 
sum of money, to be staked down, each of the two who are 
concerned, valuing his own cards, and lessening those of hia 
antagonist, as he thinks he has reason. 

A very notable damage, occasioned by one person's peep* 
ing into another's hand, I once chanced to be a spectator of 

331 



BRAG. — BLIND HOOKEY. 

Some gentlemen and ladies were playing at this game, 
when one of the gamesters, who seemed to be very skilful at 
the game in general, but more particularly so, at the subtle 
management of the brag, and, by his artful method and cun- 
ning manner of behaviour, had induced his competitor to be- 
lieve that he resolved to out-brag him upon very low and in- 
significant cards; but it was the gentleman's good luck at that 
juncture, to have in his hand far otherwise than he imagined, 
having been dealt two natural aces, and the knave of clubs, 
which, joined with the other two, made the greatest pair-royal 
that could then possible be dealt, and consequently proper to 
win also the greatest stake that could be laid ; he kept his 
countenance demure, and with a gesture neither overjoyed nor 
desponding, made a brag of half-a-crown ; the other who had 
in his hand a pair-royal of kings, and, as afterwards was dis- 
covered, had, through the imprudence of the dealer, casually 
seen an ace or two given about to other gamesters, thinking 
himself also as secure as possible, answers with a crown; his 
antagonist then sets half-a-guinea, and the opposer, immedi- 
ately a whole one, and vying with each other, till the same 
amounted to ten pounds, when as ill fate, for one of them, 
would have it, a too curious impertinent of the female kind, 
who sat next him that had the aces, having a furious itch 
upon her to know whether his repeated brag was upon a sure 
foundation, or not, could not forbear covertly peeping into his 
hand, and at the view was so surprized, that on a sudden she, 
by a violent shriek, gave the gamester, with the pair-royal of 
kings, warning of his unavoidable loss, giving him reason to 
cease the brag, and thereby lose the game. 



BLIND HOOKEY. 



This is purely a game of chance, without any limit as tc 
the number of players, but is best suited to a party of four, 
six, or ten. Each player cuts for the deal, which is decided 
in the same manner as at Whist. The pack being then 
shuffled by the player on the dealer's right hand, may be 
again shuffled by the dealer himself, and being cut by the 
right hand player, is placed by the dealer before the player on 
his left hand. He cuts a parcel for himself, consisting of not 
less than four cards, nor of more than shall allow an equal 
332 



BLIND HOOKEY. — MATRIMONY, 

number at least to all the players, and lays them before him 
with the faces downwards. All the players having done the 
same, and a small parcel being left for the dealer, he also lays 
it before him, face downwards. Each player then places 
upon the parcel of cards before him, the stake which he is 
inclined to go for, and all the party having followed his 
example, the dealer forthwith turns up his parcel, for he is 
obliged to set the players in the amount they decide to ven- 
ture. The dealer having turned up his parcel, the left-hand 
player does the same, and whoever turns up the highest card 
wins the stake, but should the cards " tie," that is, be of 
equal value, the dealer wins. This is a considerable advan- 
tage, and consequently the deal is many points in the favor 
of the holder. It may be sold, and the buyer being out, 
which results from his turn-up card being lower than any that 
is turned up by any of the players, it returns to the player on 
the left-hand of the dealer who sold it. This is the principle 
upon which Blind Hookey is commonly played. 



MATRIMONY. 



Matrimony may be played by any number of persons from 
5 to 14. This game is composed of 5 chances, usually 
marked on a b}ard or sheet of paper, as follows : 





Best 






The Ace of Diamonds turned up. 




© 


INTRIGUE, 


W 


►>* 






o 2 




w 2 


u is 




» g. 


9i 


OR 


^8 


O be 




c 3 


oS 




9 


W 


QUEEN Axv KNAVE. 


3 




Pairs 






The Highest - 





333 



MATRIMONY. — FARO. 

N. B. The ace of diamonds turned up takes the whole pool, 
but when in hand ranks only as any other ace, and if not 
turned up, nor any ace in hand, then the king or next supe- 
rior card, wins the chance styled best. 

The game is generally played with counters, and the dealer 
stakes what he pleases on each or any chance, the other play- 
ers depositing each the same quantity, except one ; that is, 
when the dealer stakes twelve, the rest of the company lay 
down eleven each. After this, two cards are dealt round to 
every one, beginning on the left, then to each one other card 
turned up, and he who so happens to get the ace of diamonds 
sweeps all ; if it is not turned up, then each pla} T er shews his 
hand, and any of them having matrimony, intrigue, &c, takes 
the counters on that point ; and when two or more people 
happen to have a similar combination, the eldest hand has 
the preference, and should any chance not be gained, it stands 
over to the next deal. 



TABLE GAMES. 



FAEO. 

Faro, Pharo, Pharaoh, or Pharaon, is very similar to Bas- 
set, a game formerly much in vogue. 

RULES OF THE GAME. 

The banker turns up the cards from a complete pack, deli- 
berately, one by one, laying them alternately, first to his 
right for the bank, and then to his left hand for the punter, 
till the whole are dealt out. 

The punter may, at his option, set any number of stakes, 
agreeable to the sum limited, upon one or more cards chosen 
out of his liveret, from the ace to the king inclusive, either 
previous to dealing the cards, or after any quantity of coups 
are made, or he may masque his bets, or change his cards 
whenever he pleases, or finally decline punting, except an 
event is unsettled when not above eight cards are undealt. 

The banker wins when the card, equal in points to that on 
334 



FARO. 



which the stake is set, turns up on his right hand, but loses 
when it is dealt to the left. 

The punter loses half the stake when his card comes out 
twice in the same coup. 

The last card neither wins nor loses. 

The last card but one is called hocly, and forms part of the 
banker's gain ; but now is frequently given up, and generally 
so in the last deal 

When by accident or design the pack happens to contain 
more or less than 52 cards, or should the last coup be found 
deficient, owing to any misdeal, however arising, whether 
discovered at the end or during the game, the bank must 
then pay every stake depending at the period when the error 
is detected, which payment must also be made if the cards 
are thrown up. 

The dealer should hold the cards close in his hand, and 
always be prepared to inform any punter how many cards 
remain. 

The first card is never valid till the second is dealt. 

No person but the dealer or croupier should ever meddle 
with the cards, unless to cut them. 

A paroli, &c, may be purchased by paying a sum equiva- 
lent to the stake. 

METHOD OF PLAY. 

The tailleur and croupier sit opposite each other at a large 
oval table covered with a green cloth, on which is a line 
marked by coloured tape, or a wooden rim about an inch 
high, and eight from the edge of the table, for the purpose of 
separating those cards punted on from the others. Money is 
placed either loose in a well, or done up in rouleaus. The 
tailleur is to deal, while the croupier pays and receives, guards 
against errors, and shuffles another pack of cards. 

The game may be played by any number of persons, each 
punter being furnished with a livret, from which having 
chosen a card, or cards, and placing the same upon the table, 
just within the line, putting the stake either thereon, or upon 
other cards placed face downwards at the head of those betted 
on. The stakes are answered by the banker, who usually 
limits the sums according to his capital ; and at public tables 
has generally two or more croupiers Then the dealer having 

335 



TERMS USED AT FARO 

previously counted and shuffled the cards, and had them cut 
by a punter, should hold the pack tight in his hand, and 
show the bottom card, as a caution to avoid punting on it near 
the conclusion of the game, and to prevent mistakes, a similar 
card, with the corners cut off, is usually laid in the middle or 
the table ; next he says play, and proceeds to deal slowly, 
first to the right, afterwards to the left, mentioning every one 
as he goes on, and stopping between each two cards, while 
the croup settles the event. 

When a punter gains, he may either take his money or 
paroli ; if he wins again, he may play sept et le va ; should 
he then prove successful, he can paroli for quinze et le va ; 
afterwards for trente et le va ; and, finally, for soixante et le 
va, which is the highest chance in the game. Should the 
punter not like to venture so boldly, he may make a paix, or 
point ; afterwards a double or treble paix, &c, or a single 
double, or treble paix-paroli. When doublets are dealt, the 
punter may either pay or make a pli. 

A reckoning may be kept of the number of times each card 
is dealt, by properly placing a livret and bending the corners of 
similar cards one way for the punter, another way for the dealer. 

TERMS USED AT FARO. 

Banker ; the person who keeps the table 

Cocking. See Paroli. 

Couche or Enjeu ; the Stake. 

Coup ; a Stroke or Pull. Any two cards dealt alternately 
to the right and left. 

Croupier ; Croup. An assistant to the dealer. 

Doublet ; is when the punter's card is turned up twice in 
the same coup, then the bank wins half the stake. A single 
paroli must be taken down, but if there are several, only one 
retires. 

Rocly i a Certainty ; signifies the last card but one, the 
chance of which the banker claims, and may refuse to let any 
punter withdraw a card when eight or less remain to be dealt. 

Livret ; a small Book. A suit of 13 cards, with 4 others, 
called Figures, viz., one named the little figure, has a blue 
cross on each side, and represents ace, deuce, tray ; another 
yellow on both sides, styled the yellow figure, signifies, 4, 5, 
6 ; a third with a black lozenge in the centre, named the 
336 



TERMS USED AT FARO- 

black figure, stands for 7, 8, 9, 10 ; and a red card, called the 
great or red figure, for knave, queen, king ; these figures are 
useful for those who punt on several cards at once. 

L'une pour V autre; One for the other; means a drawn 
game, and is said when two of the punter's cards are dealt in 
the same coup. 

Masque ; signifies turning a card, or placing another face 
downwards, during any number of coups, on that whereon the 
punter has staked, and which he afterwards may play at pleasure. 

Oppose ; the Opposite Game ; is reversing the game, and 
having the cards on the right for the punter ; and those on 
the left for the dealer. 

Paix ; Peace. Equivalent to double or quits ; is, when the 
punter having won, does not choose to paroli and risk his 
stake, but bends or makes a bridge of his card, signifying 
that he ventures his gains only. A double paix is, when the 
punter having won twice, bends two cards one over the other. 
Treble paix, thrice, &c. A paix may follow a sept, quinze, 
or trente, &c. 

Paix- Paroli ' ; is when a punter has gained a paroli, wishes 
then to play double or quits, and save his original stake, 
which he signifies by doubling a card after making his first 
paroli ; double-paix-paroli succeeds to winning a paix-paroli ; 
treble-paix-paroli follows double, &c. 

Paroli or Parolet; Double. Sometimes called Cocking, is 
when a punter, being fortunate, chooses to venture both his 
stake and gains, which he intimates by bending a corner of 
his card upwards. 

Pli; Bending; is used when a punter, having lost half his 
stake by a doublet, bends a card in the middle, and setting it 
up with the points and foot towards the dealer, signifies there- 
by a desire either of recovering the moiety, or of losing all. 

Pont ; a Bridge. The same as Paix. 

Ponte or Punt; a Point. The punter or player. 

Quinze et le Va ; Fifteen and it goes; is when the punter 
having won a sept, &c, bends the third corner of the card, 
and ventures for 15 times his stake. 

Sept et le Va. ; Seven &c. ; succeeds the gaining of a pa- 
roli, by which the punter being entitled to thrice his stake, 
risks the whole again, and, bending his card a second time, 
tries to win seven -fold. 

337 



FARO. 

Soixante etle Va; Sixty-three, &c. ; is when the player 
having obtained a trente, ventures all once more, which is 
signified by making a fifth paroli, either on another card, if 
he has parolied on one only before, or by breaking the side of 
that one whicli contains four, to pursue his luck in the next deal. 

Tailleur ; the Dealer. Generally the banker. 

Trente et le Va ; one and thirty; follows a quinze, &c., 
when the punter again tries his luck, and makes a fourth paroli. 

ODDS AT THE GAME OF FARO. 

The chances of doublets vary according to the number of 
similar cards remaining among those undealt. 

The odds against the punter increase with every coup that 
is dealt. 

When 20 cards remain in hand, and the punter's card but 
once in it, the banker's gain is 5 per cent. 

When the punter's card is twice in 20, the banker's gain 
is about the 34th part of the stake. 

When the punter's card is thrice in 20, the banker's gain 
is about 4 per cent. 

When the punter's card is 4 times in 20, the banker's gain 
is nearly the 18th part of the stake. 

When only 8 cards remain, it is 5 to 3 in favor of the bank, 
when but 6 are left, it is 2 to 1 ; and when no more than 4, 
it is 3 to 1. 

TABLE EXHIBITING THE ODDS AGAINST WINNING ANY NUM- 
BER OF EVENTS SUCCESSIVELY: APPLICABLE TO HAZARD, 
BILLIARDS, FARO, ROUGE ET NOIB, OR OTHER. GAMES OF 
CHANCE. 

That the punter wins or loses the first time is an even bet. 

That he does not win twice together, is 3 to 1 ; three suc- 
cessive times, 7 to 1 ; four successive times, 15 to one ; five 
successive times, 31 to 1; six successive times, 63 to 1 ; seven 
successive times, 127 to 1 ; eight successive times, 255 to 1 ; 
nine successive times, 511 to 1; ten successive times, 1023 
to 1 ; and so on to any number doubling every time the last 
odds, and adding one for the stake. 

N. B. A punter plays on the square by placing a stake, re- 
ferring to both at the head of two cards that have been deal* 
thrice each, and neither of which is the bottom one 
338 



A TABLE FOR FARO, WHEREBY THE SEVERAL ADVANTAGES OF TH1 
BANKER, IN WHATEVER CIRCUMSTANCES HE MAY HAPPEN TO BK, 
IS SEEN SUFFICIENTLY NEAR AT THE FIRST VIEW. 



Number 

of Cards 

in the 

Stock. 


The Number of times the Punter's 
Card is contained in the Stock. 


1 


2 


3 


4 


52 


** 


** 


** 


50 


50 


** 


94 


65 


48 


48 


48 


90 


62 


46 


46 


46 


86 


60 


44 


44 


44 


82 


57 


42 


42 


42 


78 


54 


40 


40 


40 


74 


52 


38 


38 


38 


70 


49 


36 


36 


36 


66 


46 


34 


34 


34 


62 


44 


32 


32 


32 


58 


41 


30 


30 


30 


54 


38 


28 


28 


28 


50 


36 


26 


26 


26 


46 


33 


24 


24 


24 


42 


30 


22 


22 


22 


38 


28 


20 


20 


20 


34 


25 


18 


18 


18 


30 


22 


16 


16 


16 


26 


20 


14 


14 


14 


22 


17 


12 


12 


12 


18 


14 


10 


10 


10 


14 


12 


8 


8 


8 


11 


9 


6 



USE OP THE FOREGOING TABLE. 

Example I. — To find the gain of the banker when there 
are 30 cards remaining in the stock, and the punter's card 
twice in it. 

In the first column seek for the number answering to 30. 
the number of cards remaining in the stock : over against it, 
and under 2, at the head of the table, you will find 54, which 
shows that the banker's gain is the fifty-fourth part of the 
stake. 

Example II. — To find the gain of the banker when but 10 
cards are remaining in the stock, and the punter's card thrice 
in it. 

Against 10, the number of cards, in the first column, and 
under number 3, you will find 12, which denotes that the 
banker's gain is the twelfth part of the stake. 

Example III. — To find the banker's profit when the pun- 
ter's cards remain twice in 22. 

In the first column find 22, the number of cards over 
against it under figure 2, at the head of the table, you will 
find 38, which shows that the gain is one 38th part of the 
stake. 

Example IV. To find the banker's gain when eight cards 
remain, and the punter's card thrice among them. 

In the first column seek for 8, on a line with which under 
the 3 stands the figure of 9, denoting the profits to be l-9th, 
or 2s. 4c?. in the guinea. 

Corollary 1. — From the table it appears, that the fewer 
cards there are in the stock, the greater is the gain of the 
banker. 

Corollary 2. — The least gain of the banker under the same 
circumstances is, when the punter's card is but twice in hand, 
the next greater when three times, still greater when once, 
and the greatest of all when four times. 

The profit of the banker is three per cent, upon all the sums 
adventured, supposing the punters to stop when only six cards 
remain, but with hocly it is full five per cent. 



840 



Tailleue. 




Croupier. 



ROUGE ET NOIR. 

Rouge et Noir, (Red and Black,) or Trente-un, is a 
modern game, so styled, not from the cards, but from the 
colours marked on the tapis or green cloth with which the 
table is covered. 

To form the game, it is necessary that there should be a 
banker, or tailleur (Dealer,) who represents him, and play- 
ers, the number of whom are unlimited. 

The table usually employed for this game is of an oblong 
form, thirty feet long, and four feet wide, covered with a 
green cloth ; in the middle of which the bank is placed ; in 
other words, the money that belongs to the banker, and 
which is destined to pay the fortunate players. The company 
are at liberty to place their money on the right and left of 
this table, upon the chances that seems to them most likely 
to win. Those chances are :— 

1st. Le Noir (the black) le Rouge (the red) designated by 
two large spots on the green cloth, marked red and black, 
something in the shape of the ace of diamonds, and placed 

SO* 341 



ROUGE ET NOIR. 

opposite to each other on the cloth ; to which is sown a long 
strip of yellow border. 

2nd. The couleur and the inverse. If the player be desirous 
to risk his money on the colour, he must put it on a narrow 
band, which is situated between the two squares of the Rouge 
and Noir. If he be determined to try his luck on the inverse, 
he must place his money on a yellow circle, or rather a col- 
lection of circles, situated at the extremity of the table. 

There are many tailleurs, who are replaced successively ; 
some of whom deal the cards, and others pay the winners, 
superintend the play, and overlook the players. 

The first parcel of cards played, is usually for noir, the 
second for rouge, though sometimes the cards are cut to de- 
termine which shall begin. All the terms of this game are 
French, and that language is commonly used in playing. 

The tailleur and croupier being seated opposite each other, 
with a basket for receiving the cards of every coup after deal- 
ing, placed on the middle of the table, one of the tailleurs 
commences the game, by unsealing before the company six 
packs of cards, which are regularly counted in their presence ; 
and, after being shuffled, he passes them to another sitting 
opposite to him ) who also shuffles them in his turn by a 
handful at a time, and hands them to the punter who happens 
to be on the right hand, who has the privilege to shuffle them 
if he pleases : they are ultimately transmitted to the tailleur, 
whose duty it is to deal, and who again shuffles them by a 
handful at a time. He then puts the six packs together, 
shuffles them once more, and gets them cut. 

The cut is made by presenting a blank card to one of the 
players, who places it in any part of the six packs of cards 
that he thinks proper : he cannot, however, cut less than three 
cards. 

The tailleur completes the cut, by putting those cut under 
the top cards. 

This ceremony being over, the punters place on the Rouge, 
the Noir, the Couleur, or the Inverse, the sum they wish to 
risk. No individual can put down less than five francs, nor 
more than twelve thousand at the same time, except in the 
two following cases ; viz : — 

1st. When the banker agrees to an augmentation of the 
stake, after a proposition made to him by the player. 
342 






ROUGE ET NOIB. 

2nd. When a player is forced to augment his mass, the 
eonsequence of a martingale. 

During this interval, the tailleur places before him the 
cards, of which he takes a handful, and criss out, " Le jeu 
est fait, rien ne va plus :" that is to say, — the deal having 
commenced, no more money is to be placed on the table than 
the sum already staked. After those words are pronounced, 
should any one put money on the table, it will be taken up 
by one of the tailleurs, and returned to him ; for the player 
putting money down too late can neither win nor lose. 

The tailleur now draws a card, which, after showing to the 
company, he lays on the table : he draws a second ) a third, 
which he places in the same row, right and left, until the 
number of points on the cards amount to at least thirty-one ; 
se that if he should happen to count only thirty, he must still 
draw another. 

The cards retain their nominal value. The ace counts as 
one point ; the II, two points ; the III, three points ; the IV, 
four points ; the V, five points ; the VI, six points ; the VII, 
seven points ; the VIII, eight points ; the IX, nine points ; 
the X, ten points ; and the court cards ten points each. 

The first row of cards, of which the number of points are at 
least equal to thirty -one, and cannot consequently pass the 
number of forty, is for the Noir; that is to say, it determines 
the chance of those who have placed their money upon that 
part of the cloth where the black mark is ; which wc have 
already described as being in the shape of a diamond. 

The tailleur immediately afterwards draws in the same man 
ner another row of cards for the Rouge. 

If he has counted thirty-six points in the first row of cards, 
he calls out, in a loud voice, to the players, six, to avoid the 
too frequent repetition of the word thirty, which would recur 
too often, but which is well understood; and thirty -five 
points in the second row of cards, which he also announces in 
like manner by saying five. He adds, " Rouge gagne," red 
wins ; because it is always the thirty-one points, or those 
which more closely approach to them, that win. At that mo- 
ment, the four tailleurs, who are placed opposite each other, 
gather by the aid of their rakes all the money which is placed 
on the Noir, and double all that placed on the Rouge, which 
is immediately withdrawn by the lucky players. 

343 



ROUGE ET NOIR. 

It now only remains to speak of the money placed on the 
chances, the Couleur and the Inverse. The first card drawn 
by the banker determines the couleur. If, then, the first 
card of the preceding cut drawn by the tailleur is Noir, as it 
is Rouge which gains, the couleur will lose. 

The tailleurs have then a right to draw to the bank all the 
money which was placed upon the chance of the couleur, and 
double all the money which was placed upon the chance of 
the inverse. 

To make this better understood, a contrary example may 
be cited : that is to say, a case in which the Noir and the 
Couleur win. Let us suppose, that the tailleur turns up for 
the first row, the king of spades, ten of clubs, seven of dia- 
monds, and four of spades, which count thirty-one, and which 
he expresses by one, pronounced in a loud voice ; and that he 
next turns up for the second row, the queen of clubs, nine of 
hearts, nine of spades, and five of diamonds, which count 
thirty-three, which he expresses by three. Noir wins ; since 
the tailleur has turned up in the first row of cards thirty-one ; 
and, as we have already observed : — 

1st. That the first row of cards is for La Noir. 

2nd. It is the chance of thirty-one, or the point which ap- 
proaches the nearest to it, that wins. 

The tailleur then cries out, " Rouge perd," red loses, and 
adds, " et Couleur gagne," and colour wins ; because the 
first card turned up is a king of spades, consequently black ; 
and in that case, the colour being black, the colour wins be- 
cause black wins. If the first card had been the king of dia- 
monds, the colour would have lost because it is the black 
which has won ; which the dealer would have expressed by 
saying, " Rouge perd et Couleur," the red and the colour loses 

When the dealer has turned up in the second row of cards, 
which is for the red, the same number he has turned up in 
the first row for the black, it is what is called un refait ; that 
is to say, that the cut is null, and that the dealer must again 
turn up other cards. The punter can in this case change his 
game by playing more, less, or not at all ; as he may think 
proper. 

When the points turned up for the black and for the red are 
thirty-one, half of all the money which may be on the red, or 
the black, the colour, or the inverse, belongs to the banker, 
344 



ROUGE ET NOIE. 

which half, the punters may either pay, or have their stake 
moved into the middle semicircles of the colour they then 
choose, called " la premiere prison/' the first prison, to be de- 
termined by the next event, whether they lose all or are set at 
liberty ; but if " un refait second trente et un," a second doub- 
let of one-and-thirty, should occur in the next succeeding deal, 
the punters lose only one-half of their remaining moiety, 
making three-fourths of their original stakes, and are removed 
into the smallest semicircle, styled " la seconde prison/' the 
second prison, and the next coup determines whether the pun- 
ter loses all or is to be removed again into "la premiere prison." 

Thus if a player had at the first coup one hundred francs, 
by the first thirty-one turned up he would lose fifty ; he has 
no more then in prison than fifty francs, after the first thirty- 
one ; twenty-five francs, after the second ; twelve francs and 
a half, after the third ; and six francs and a quarter, after the 
fourth. 

Happily for the player, it seldom happens, that thirty-one 
is three or four times successively repeated in favor of the 
banker. 

Punters after winning may paroli, &c, and pursue their 
luck up to a soixante, as at faro ; but as no livrets are used 
at Rouge et Noir, they cannot make either paix or pont. 

At this game a banker cannot refuse any stake not exceed- 
ing his fund ; which the punter declares, by saying, " Je va 
la Banque, Va la Banque, or Va Banque/' I aim at the Bank. 

Bankers generally furnish punters with slips of card paper, 
ruled in columns, each marked N or R at the top, on which 
accounts are kept by pricking with a pin, and when " un re- 
fait" happens, the same is denoted by running the pin through 
the middle line. 

Some banker give up the profit of " le refait " during the 
first deal. 

The odds against " le refait " being dealt, are reckoned 63 
to 1, but bankers expect it twice in three deals, and there are 
generally from 29 to 32 coups in each deal. 

For the table exhibiting the odds against winning any 
number of events successively, vide page 339. 

EXPLANATION OP THE TERMS USED AT ROUGE ET NOIR. 

Banquier, or Tailleur — The dealer. 

845 



ROUGE ET NOIR. — ROULETTE. 

Fausse TaiUe — Occurs when the dealer commits a fault, 
which subjects him to double all the money staked. 

To Martingale — Is to play one coup at least more than the 
stake previously lost. This is the boldest manner of playing 
at any of the games of chance. 

Paroli — Is doubling the stake you have won at the pre- 
ceding coup. A plan usually adopted by all players. 

Paroli et masse en- avant — Is double the sum staked the 
preceding coup, more than the player has risked. If the 
gamester has played five shillings the first time and has won 
the second coup, instead of taking up his money, he must add 
five shillings to his mass, which makes fifteen shillings, and 
which he risks the second coup : this is called " Faire Paroli 
et masse en avant." Perhaps this is the safest and best method 
of playing, especially for a novice. In pursuing this plan it 
is possible to win ; and it is impossible to lose much, provided 
the first stake does not exceed a crown. 

Refait de Trente et un — A coup by which the banquier 
wins one-half the money staked. It is effected by dealing 
thirty-one for each colour. 

Refait — Occurs when the banquier deals the same sum for 
both colours, from thirty-two to forty. 

Sept et le va — Seven times the amount first staked. 

Taille — Is made every time the dealer has turned up all 
the cards. 

Figure — The name given to the kings, queens, and knaves 

Point — The number which results from the sums of the 
cards dealt by the banquier. 

Punter — Those who play against the banquier. 



LA ROULETTE. 



The table employed for the Roulette is somewhat in the 
shape of that used for the game of Rouge et Noir; it is of 
an oblong square form, covered with green cloth. In the centre 
is a round cavity usually made of mahogany, and resembling 
in some degree a punch-bowl. The sides are immovable, and 
around it are placed at equal distances several bands of cop- 
per, which commencing at the top descend to the extremity 
346 



ROULETTE. 

of the machine. In the centre of it, which is movable, a 
circular bottom is formed, containing thirty-eight holes, to 
which the copper bands just mentioned are attached, and 
upon which are painted, alternately, in black and red, thirty- 
six numbers, from one to thirty-six, a Zero (0), and a double 
Zero (00). 

In the middle is a moulinet (mill) of copper, surmounted 
by a cross of the same metal, which serves to impress the 
movable bottom with the rotary motion that any one would 
wish to give it. 

There is a banker, or rather many tailleurs who represent 
him : the number of players are not limited. 

One of the tailleurs puts the machine in motion, by turning 
with his fore-finger the cross which surmounts it from right to 
left, thus impressing the bottom that contains the thirty-eight 
holes, which produces, as before stated, a rotary motion. At 
this instant, he throws an ivory ball into the concavity of the 
Roulette, in a direction opposite to the movement which he 
has given to the movable bottom. This ball moves in the 
interior with great velocity, making several revolutions ; until 
at length from the feebleness of its motion, and after many 
irregular bounds, it falls into one of the thirty-eight holes, 
formed, as already stated, by the copper bands. 

It is the hole into which the ball enters that determines the 
gain or the loss of the numerous chances which this game 
presents. 

To the right and left of this machine are figured on the 
green cloth, for the accommodation of the players, the thirty- 
six numbers, and the Zeros, simple and double, in the follow- 
ing manner. 

[See Diagram, page 348.] 

The other chances are also designated on the green cloth, 
divergent from its centre, on one side " Timpair, la manque 
et le rouge j" on the other " le pair, le passe, et le noir." 

The impair wins, when the ball enters a hole numbered 
impair. The manque wins, when the ball enters a hole num- 
bered eighteen, and all those under that number. The rouge 
wins, when the ball enters a hole of which the number is red, 
and vice versa. 

This game affords seven chances, comprising that of the 

347 



ROULETTE. 









1 1 








Impar. Manque. Kongo. 


M 


1 91 1 


ft 

18 


u 

'5 
55 

c 

as 

3 
& 

"3 

0L, 


88 


I 58 


OS 


65 


85 


LZ 


95 


£5 


*Z 


1 85 


55 


15 


05 


61 


81 


1 41 1 


91 


ei 


tl 


81 


n 


11 


01 


8 


1 § 1 


1 


9 


1 ? 1 


f 


8 


5 


I 

























a 

i 

o 
M 

• 

C 

c 
1 

a 

"3 
a. 

S 


| 


c 

'5 
55 

© 

OB 
09 

3 
*3 


1 


1 2 


3 


4 


& 1 


6 


7 


8 1 


9 


10 


1 u 


12 


31 
16 


14 | 


15 


17 | 


18 


19 


20 | 


21 


22 


1 23 | 


24 


25 

28 


| 26 


27 
30 


29 


31 


32 


33 


34 


35 j 


36 






1 




1 



348 



^ Roukitc Tablt. 



ROULETTE. 



numbers; and this latter chance divides itself into many 
others, of which we shall presently give a brief detail. 

The player puts upon those chances of which he makes 
choice, any sum he pleases ; that is to say, from two francs, 
the least stake admitted, to 12,000, the highest ; unless in the 
like cases of which we have already spoken respecting the 
game of Rouge et Noir. 

The player who puts his money on one of the numbers* or 
the Zeros painted on the green cloth (which is called plein), 
gains thirty-five times the amount of his stake, should the 
ball fall into the corresponding number, or Zero, marked in 
the interior of the roulette. 

The gamester who plays on the numbers may play the 
twelve first, the twelve middle, and the last twelve. If the 
ball enters the hole in the interior, which corresponds with 
one of those twelve numbers marked on the green cloth, on 
which the player has put his money, he is paid three times 
the amount of his stake. 

To play the Colonnes, the player places his money in the 
square, which is at the foot of each column marked on the 
green cloth. If the ball enters one of the holes corresponding 
with one of the numbers of the column, the player gains 
three times the amount of his stake. 

He may equally, and at his pleasure, play two, three, four, 
six numbers, and he wins and loses always in the same pro- 
portion; eighteen times the stake for two numbers; twelve 
times the stake for three numbers ; nine times the stake for 
four numbers ; six times the stakes for six numbers ; and the 
rest in the same proportion. 

The player who may have put his money on one or the 
other of the six chances wins double his stake if the chance 
arrives. If, then, the ball enters a hole of which the number 
is thirty-six, and rouge, the bantar pays double all the money 
which is placed on the following chances — la passe, le pair, 
and le rouge, and pays thirty-five times the amount of the 
sum which was placed on the number thirty-six, and draws 
to the bank all the money which was placed on the other 
chances. 

If the ball should happen to enter the hole numbered 
seventeen, noir, the banker pays the player double the amount 
of the stakes which may have been placed on the following 

31 349 



ROULETTE. E. 0. 

chances, la manque, Pimpair, and la noire, and thirty-five 
times the amount of the stake played on number seventeen, 
and draws to the bank all the money that may have been 
placed on the other chances. 

When the tailleur perceives that the ball has but a few 
seconds to roll, he cries out — "Le jeu est fait, rien ne va 
plus." After this the players cannot put any money on the 
table ; should they do so, their money is taken up by a crou- 
pier and returned to them. 



E. 0. 

An E table is circular in form, but of no exact dimen- 
sions, though in general about four feet in diameter. The 
extreme circumference is a kind of counter, or depot, for the 
stakes, marked all round with the letters E and ; on which 
each adventurer places money according to his inclination. 
The interior part of the table consists, first, of a kind of 
gallery, or rolling-place, for the ball, which, with the outward 
parts above, called depot, or counter, is stationary or fixed. 
The most interior part moves upon an axis, or pivot, and is 
turned about with handles, whilst the ball is set in motion 
round the gallery. This part is generally divided into forty 
niches or interstices, twenty of which are marked with the 
letter E, and the other twenty with the letter 0. The lodging 
of the ball in any of the niches distinguished by those letters, 
determines the wager. The proprietors of the tables have 
two bar-holes, and are obliged to take all bets offered, either 
for EorOj bu+ if the bail falls into either of the bar-holes, 
they win all the bets upon Jhe opposite letter, and do not pay 
to that in which it falls ; an advantage in the proportion of 2 
to 40, or 5 per cent, in their favor * 

* This very gambling game used to be extensively played some fifty or 
sixty years ago. One of Gillray's early caricatures represents an £ 
table in the act of being destroyed by the " Westminster Just-asses," as he 
denominate* them. — See Bohn's Gillray, plate 9. 

350 



Euchre. 



E UCHR E. 

The game of Euchre is played with thirty-two cards; all 
below the denomination of Seven-spot being rejected. Four 
persons constitute the complement for the game, and part- 
ners are determined by dealing and turning up one card to 
each; those receiving the two lowest caixls, and vice versa, 
being associated together. 

The value of the cards in Euchre is the same as in All- 
Fours, and other games, excepting tha^t the Knave of the 
suit corresponding with the trump is called the Right 
Bower, and is the highest card of the hand; and the other 
l£nave of the same color is called the Left Bower, and is, 
the card of second importance. For example : if Hearts 
should be turned Trump, the Knave of Hearts is the high- 
est card, the Knave of Diamonds second in value, and the 
Ace, King, Queen, &c, of Hearts then come in their regu- 
lar order, as at All-Fours. "When the Knaves are of the 
opposite color from the trump card, they rank no higher 
than at All-Fours. 

The players usually cut for deal, and he who cuts the 
lowest card is entitled to the deal, and that is accomplished 
by giving the eldest hand, or the first person to the left of 
the dealer, two cards, and so on all around, and then deal- 
ing an additional three cards to each player, in the same 
order. Regularity should be observed in dealing, and no 
party should be allowed to receive from the dealer, in any 
round, more than the number of cards given to the eldest 
hand. For instance, if the dealer begins by giving the 
left-hand player two cards, he cannot be allowed to vary, 
so as to give another three, and then two again, but must 
continue as he began. The proper manner of dealing is as 

35 1 



Euchre. 



we pointed out at the outset, and should be rigidly 
observed. 

The advantage which accrues to the dealer is manifest. 
From the manner in which cards are played in all games, 
those of a corresponding suit will necessarily fall together, 
and therefore the dealer enhances his prospects thirty-three 
and one-third per cent, for an additional trump by dealing 
three cards last round, for then he has three immediately 
preceding the trump, when if he had begun the deal with 
three cards he would end by having only the two cards 
preceding the trump. 

After five cards have deen dealt to each player, in the 
order as above, the dealer turns up the top card on the 
pack or talon, which is called the trump. After the firs 
hand, the deal passes to each player in rotation. 

The game consists of five points — the parties getting that 
number first being the winners — and the points are indi- 
cated by the number of tricks taken by the players. If 
all the tricks are taken by one side it constitutes what is 
technically termed a march, and entitles the fortunate 
parties to a count of two ; and it is necessary to take three 
tricks in order to count one, or "make a pointy'' 1 as it is 
called. Taking four tricks counts no more than three. 

When the trump is turned, the first person to the left of 
the dealer looks at his cards, for the purpose of determin- 
ing what he intends to do, -whether to "pass " or " order 
the trump up ;" and this, to a certain extent, will depend 
upon the strength of his hand. If he holds cards of suf- 
ficient value to secure three tricks, he will say, "I order 
it up," and the dealer is then obliged to take the card 
turned up, and discard one from his hand ; and the card 
thus taken up becomes the trump. If the eldest hand has^Yu* 1 
enough strength to order it up, he will say, "I pass," and 
then the partner of the dealer has to determine whether 
he will "pass" or "assist." If he has enough, with the 

35 3 



Euchre. 

help of the card his partner has turned, to make three 
tricks, he will say, ' ' I assist, ' ' and the card is taken up as 
before. If he passes, then it goes to the third hand, who 
proceeds exactly as the eldest hand. Should all the play- 
ers pass, it becomes the dealer's privilege to announce 
what he will do, and if he thinks he can take three tricks, 
he will say, "I take it up," and immediately discard his 
weakest card, placing it under the remainder of the pack, 
and instead of the card thus rejected he takes that turned 
up, which remains the trump. It is not considered en 
regie for the dealer to remove the trump card until after 
the first trick has been taken, unless he needs it to play. 
It is let lay, that every one may see what the trump is. 
We may as well state that it is always the dealer's privi- 
lege to discard any one card in his hand, and take up the 
trump card ; and this holds good whether he is assisted by 
his partner, is ordered up by his adversaries, or takes it 
up himself. This gives the parties having the deal an 
advantage about equal to one trick. Should the dealer 
not be confident of winning three tricks, he says, "I turn 
it down, ' ' and at the same time places the turn-up card 
face down on the pack. Should all the players decline to 
play at the suit turned up, and the dealer turn it down, 
the eldest hand is then entitled to make trump what he 
chooses (excepting the suit already turned down). If the 
eldest hand is not strong enough in any suit, and does not 
wish to make the trump, he can pass again, and so it will 
go on in rotation, each one having an opportunity to make 
the trump in his regular turn , to the dealer. If all the 
players, including the dealer, decline the making of the 
trump the deal is forfeited to the eldest hand. The eldest 
hand, after the dealer has discarded, opens the game, and 
leads any card he chooses. The person playing the highest 
card takes the trick, and he in his turn is obliged to lead- 
in this manner the game proceeds, until the five cards in 
each hand are exhausted. Players are required, under 

353 



Euchre. 

penalty of the loss of two points, to follow suit. If, how- 
ever, they cannot, they may then throw away a small card 
or trump at their pleasure. 

The Three and Four are used in marking game. The 
face of the Three being up, and the face of the Four down 
on it, counts one, whether one, two or three pips are ex- 
posed, the face of the Four being up, and the Three over 
it, face down, counts two, whether one, two, three, or 
four of the pips are shown ; the face of the Three upper- 
most counts three ; and the face of the Four uppermost 
counts four. The Two and Three are now rarely used as 
counters, being more liable to mistakes. 

It may be laid down as one of the general rules of 
Euchre, that whatever is undertaken by a player must be 
accomplished, in order to make the point. For instance, 
if I adopt, or order up the trump, and fail in securing 
three tricks, it is called being "Euchred," and entitles 
the opponents to a count of two ; or if I make the trump 
after the original one has been turned down, and do not 
6ecure three tricks, I am also ' ' Euchred, ' ' and it counts 
as before. Therefore it will be perceived, that in order to 
play the game properly one should have, in addition to 
the ordinary rules, a thorough knowledge of the theory 
of chances as they apply to this game, and exercise it 
judiciously. 

TECHNICAL TERMS USED IN EUCHRE. 

Adopting — Synonyme. — "Taking it up." This is the 
privilege of the dealer, after the others have passed, to 
discard an inferior card, and use instead the trump card 
turned up. The words used are, "I take it up." 

Alone. — Playing without the assistance of your partner, 
when you have a hand which it is probable would take 
five tricks. The words are, "I play alone," or "Alone," 
or "Cards away," or "I try it." 

354 



Euchre. 

Assist. — If, when your partner deals, and the eldest 
hand passes, you know by your hand alone, or by com- 
paring it with the deck-head, that you can make three 
tricks, you may say to him, "I assist." This is equivalent 
to ordering up the trump into his hand, for he thereupon 
discards his poorest card, and the trump card is his to 
play when he needs it. 

Bower. — The Jack or Knave of the trump suit, and of 
the suit of the same color. 

Bridge. — This is where one side has scored four and the 
other one or two. When your opponents have one or two 
and you have four, if you are eldest hand, unless you have 
one trick certainly in your hand — that is, the right bower, 
or the left bower guarded — you will order it up whether 
you have a trump or not, to prevent them going alone, 
and making four points. 

Call. — The right to demand an adversary to play an ex- 
posed card. 

Coat- Cards. — The Bower, King and Queen, from the 
fact that they are coated, or dressed. 

Court-Cards. — The same as coat-cards. 

Cross the Suit. — To make a trump of a different color 
from the card turned up by the dealer. 

Cut. — To separate the shuffled pack into two parts, a 
right possessed by the right hand opponent. 

Deal. — To distribute the cards to which each player is 
entitled. You give each player five cards, in two rounds, 
commencing with your left hand opponent. You begin 
by dealing two cards to each, and then three, or vice versa. 

Discard. — Putting a card out of the dealer's hand, face 
down, under pack when he " takes it up" in lieu of the 
trump card on the deck. 

Dutch It. — To make a trump of the color that is turned 
down. i 

Eldest Hand. — The left hand adversary of the dealer, so 
called because he is the first to play. 

355 



Euchre. 

Euchre. — The failure of that side which makes, orders 
up, or takes up a trump, to take three tricks ; this failure 
scoring two points to their adversaries. 

Face-Cards. — The coat-cards. 

Finesse. — This is where a player holding the best and 
third best trump, plays the latter first, taking the risk 
that his opponents do not hold the second best trump, or 
that his partner does. In either case he wins the two 
tricks. 

Force. — To lead a suit of which your opponents hold 
none, thus obliging them to trump or lose the trick. 

Go Alone. — Synonymous with "play alone." 

Intimation. — Anything passing from one partner to 
another, by which the latter knows how to play. 

Lay-Card. — Any card other than crump. 

Lay-Suit. — Any suit not a trump. 

Left Bowsr. — The Knave of the same color as the trump 
suit. 

Left Bower Guarded. — The Left Bower protected by 
another trump. 

Lone Hand. — A hand so strong in trumps alone, or in 
trumps guarded by high cards of a lay suit, that it will 
probably win five tricks if its holder plays alone. 

Lone Flayer. — The one playing without his partner. 

Lone Game. — Scoring five points to your adversary's 
none. 

Making the Trump. — Naming a new suit for trump after 
the dealer has turned the trump card down. 

March. — Where all the tricks are made by one side. 

Next in Suit. — The same as Dutch It. 

Numkrical Cards. — Those neither ace nor face. 

Ordering Up. — Requiring the dealer and his partner to 
play the trump as it has been turned. 

Partner. — The one joined with you in playing against 
your adversary. The penalty of the misconduct of one 
partner falls on both. 

35 6 



Euchre. 

Pass. — To decline to play at the trump turned up. 

Pase Again. — To decline the privilege of making a new 
trump after the first has been turned down. 

Play Alone. — To play a hand without one's partner. 

Point. — One of the five required for the game. 

Rank. — The relative power of the cards, commencing 
and going in trump, as follows: Right Bower, Left Bower, 
Ace, King, Queen, Ten, Nine, Eight, Seven ; but in the 
Lay Suits the Jacks take place between the Queens and 
Tens. 

Responsible. — The party who orders up a trump, assist, 
make a trump or take it up. 

Revoke. — Playing a card of a different suit from that 
demanded. This is sometimes vulgarly called renig. 

Right Bower. — The Jack of trumps. 

Right Bower Followed. — The Right Bower with another 
trump behind. 

Ruffing. — Another term for trumping a suit other than 
trumps. 

Score. — The points gained in a game or rubber. 

Sequence. — The numerical succession of cards of the 
same color. 

Side Cards. — Lay Cards. 

Slam. — Love game, vulgarly called "a skunk." 

Taking it Up. — Indorsing the trump by the dealer, and 
discarding another card for it, after the rest have passed. 

Tenace. — Where the last player holds in his hand the 
highest and third best of the cards out. 

Throw Away. — To play a worthless card when you can- 
not follow suit and do not desire to trump, as for instance, 
where it is your partner's trick. 

Trump. — The suit turned up, or made the commanding 
suit. 

Trump Card. — The card which is turned up by the 
dealer after the hands have been dealt around. 

357 



Euchre. 

Turn Down. — The trump card which is turned face 
downward on the talon by the dealer after all have passed. 

Underplaying. — Following suit and winning with a low 
card, when you have one in your hand superior to your 
adversary's. 

THE LAWS OF EUCHRE. 

8COIUNG. 

1. A game consists of five points. If the side who adopt, 
make or order up a trump, take — 

I. Five tricks, they score two points. 
II. Three tricks, they score one point. 

III. Four tricks count no more than three. 

IV. If they fail to take three tricks they are euchred, 

and the opposing party score two points. 

2. When a player who plays alone takes— 
I. Five tricks, he scores four points. 

II . Three tricks he scores one point. 
III. If he fail to take three tricks he is euchred, and 
the opposing party score two points. 

3. The penalty for a revoke takes precedence of all 
other scores. 

4. An error in count can be rectified at any time before 
the next deal is completed. 

SHUFFLING AND CUTTING. 

5 . At the outset of the game each player cuts for deal, 
and the lowest cut deals. If there be a tie, the parties tied 
cut again. The players cutting the two highest cards play 
against those cutting the two lowest. 

6. In cutting the Ace is lowest, and the other cards 
rank as at Whist. 

7. Should a player expose more than one card, he must 
cut again. 

358 



Euchre. 

8. The cards may be shuffled by any piayer who de- 
mands that privilege, but the dealer has always the right 
to shuffle last. 

9. The cards must be cut by the right hand opponent 
"before they are dealt. 

10. A cut must not be less than four cards removed 
from the top, nor must it be made so as to leave less than 
four cards at the bottom ; and the pack must be put on 
the table for the cut. 

DEALING AND DISCARDING. 

11. After the first deal, the right of dealing goes to the left. 

12. In dealing, five cards must be distributed to each 
player by the dealer, who may begin by giving first two, 
and then three cards to each, or vice versa ; but whichever 
course is adopted by him must be strictly adhered to until 
the deal is completed ; he must not begin by dealing two 
to one, three to the next, and so on. When this rule is 
violated the adverse side may claim a new deal, provided 
that they have neither of them seen their own hands. 

13. A misdeal forfeits the deal, and the following are 
misdeals : 

I. A card too many or too few given to either player. 
II. Dealing the cards when the pack has not been prop- 
erly cut ; the claim for a misdeal in this case 
must be made prior to the trump card being 
turned, and before the adversaries look at their 
cards. 

14. Whenever a misdeal is attributed to any interrup- 
tion by adversaries, the deal will not be forfeited. Hence, 
if an adversary touch his cards during the deal, and the 
dealer's partner has not done so, no misdeal can be 
claimed. 

[ Case. A, having misdealt, claimed exemption on the 
ground of his opponent having interrupted him, by ques- 
tioning his title. Decision. — Claim allowed.] 

359 



Euchre. 

15. — If, whilst dealing, a card be exposed by the dealer 
or partner, should neither of the adversaries have touched 
their cards, the latter may claim a new deal, but the deal 
is not lost. 

16. If, during the deal, the dealer's partner touch any 
of his cards, the adversary may do the same without losing 
their privilege of claiming a new deal shovld chance give 
them that option. 

17. If an opponent displays a card dealt, the dealer may 
make a new deal, unless he or his partner have examined 
their own cards. 

18. If a deal is made out of turn, it is good, provided it 
be not discovered before the dealer has discarded, and the 
eldest hand has led. 

19. If a card is faced in dealing, unless it be a trump 
card, a new deal may be demanded, but the right to deal 
is not lost. 

20. If the pack is discovered to be defective, by reason 
of having more or less than thirty-two cards, the deal is 
void ; but all the points before made are good. 

21. The dealer, unlsss he turn down the trump, must 
discard one card from his hand and take up the trump 
card. 

22. The discard is not complete until the dealer has 
placed the card under the pack; and if the eldest hand 
makes a lead before the discard is complete, he cannot 
take back the card thus led, but must let it remain. The 
dealer, however, may change the card he intended to dis- 
card and substitute another, or he may play alone, not- 
withsranding a card has been led. After the dealer has 
quitted the discard card, he cannot take it in hand again 
under any circumstances. 

23. After the discard has been made the dealer must let 
the trump card remain upon the talon until it is necessary 
to play it on a trick. After the trump card has been taken 
in hand, no player has a right to demand its denomination, 

360 



Euchre. 

but he may ask for the trump suit and the dealer must 
inform him. 

24. Should a player play with more than five cards, or 
the dealer forget to discard and omit to declare the fact 
before three tricks have been turned, the party so offend- 
ing is debarred from counting any points made in that 
deal, and the deal is lost. Under the above circumstances, 
6hould the adverse side win, they score all the points they 
make. 

PLATING OUT OF TURN, AND EXPOSED CARDS. 

25. Ail exposed cards may be called, and the offending 
party compelled to lead or play the expossed card or cards 
when he can legally do so, but in no case can a card be 
called if a revoke is thereby caused. See Law 39. The 
following are exposed cards : 

I. Two or more cards played at once. 

II. Should a player indicate that he holds a certain card 

in his hand. 

III. Any card dropped with its face upwards. 

IV. All cards exposed, whether by accident or other- 

wise, so that an opponent can distinguish and 
name them. 

26. If any player lead out of turn, his adversaries may 
demand of him to withdraw his card, and the lead may be 
compelled from the right player, and the card improperly 
led be treated as an exposed card, and called at any time 
during that deal; provided that no revoke is thereby 
caused. 

27. If any player lead out of turn and the mislead is 
followed by the other three, the trick is completed and 
stands good ; but if only the second, or the second and 
third, have played to the false lead, their cards, on dis- 
covery of tncir mistake, are taken back, and there is no 
penalty against any one except the original offender, whose 
card may be called. 

361 



Euchre. 

28. If any player play out of turn, his opponents may 
compel him to withdraw his card, and the card improperly 
played may be treated as an exposed card, and called at 
any time during that deal, provided no revoke is thereby 
caused. 

29. If any player trump a card in error, and thereby 
induce an opponent to play otherwise than he would have 
done, the latter may take up his card without penalty, 
and may call upon the offender to play the trump at any 
period of the hand. 

30. If two cards be played, or if the player play twice 
to the same trick, his opponent can elect which of the two 
shall remain and belong to the trick. Provided, however, 
that no revoke be caused. 

[But if the trick should happen to be turned with five 
cards in it, adversaries may claim a fresh deal. ] 

31. If a player, supposing that he can take every trick, 
or for any other reason, throw down his cards upon the 
table with their faces exposed, the adverse side may call 
each and all of the cards so exposed, as they may deem 
most advantageous to their game, and the delinquent 
party must play the exposed cards accordingly. 



THE BEVOKE. 

32. When a revoke occurs, the adverse party are en- 
titled to two points to their score. 

33. If a sui* is led, and any one of the players having a 
card of the same suit shall play another suit to it — that 
constitutes a revoke. But if the error be discovered be- 
fore the trick is quitted or before the party having so 
played a wrong suit or his partner shall play again, the 
penalty only amounts to the cards being treated as ex- 
posed, and being liable to be called. £> 

34. When the player who has made a revoke corrects 
his error, his partner, if he has played, cannot change his 

362 



Euchre. 

card played, but the adversary may withdraw his card, 
and play another if he objects to do so. 

35. When a revoke is claimed against adversaries, if 
they mix their cards, or throw them up, the revoke is 
taken for granted, and they lose two points. 

36. No party can claim a revoke after cutting for a new 
deal. 

37. A revoke on both sides forfeits to neither ; but a 
new deal must be had. 

38. If a player makes a revoke, his side cannot count 
any points made in that hand. 

39. A party refusing to play an exposed card on call, 
forfeits two to his opponents, as in a revoke. 

MAKING THE TRUMP, AND PLATING ALONE. 

40. Any player making a trump cannot -change the suit 
after having once named it ; and if he should by error 
name the suit previously turned down, he forfeits his right 
to make the trump, and such privilege must pass to the 
next eldest player, 

41. A player may only play alone when he adopSj orders 
up or makes a trump ; or when his partner assists, orders 
up or makes a trump. He cannot, however, play alone 
with a trump he has passed, or with a trump the making 
of which he has passed ; nor can he play alone after a lead 
has been made by himself or by his opponents. 

42. A player cannot play alone when he or his partner 
is ordered up by an opponent, or when the opposite side 
adopts or makes the trump. Only those can play alone 
who have legally taken the responsibility of the trump 
and may be euchred ; therefore, when one player elects to 
play alone, neither of his opponents may play alone 
against him. 

43. When a player having the right to play alone elects 
to do so, his partner cannot supersede him and play alone 
instead. 

3 6 3 



Euchre. 

[In saying " I go it alone," when it is his turn to settle 
the game and confirm, or make the trump, as the case 
may be, the partner binds the adversaries, and conse- 
quently binds himself and his partner. It is not a ques- 
tion between the partner, but between the partner and the 
opposing players. The partner, by confirming the trump 
and declaring to play alone, has settled the game and cut 
off the opponents right who is third man. It follows that, 
as he has been allowed to do this, his action must have at 
the same time cut off the right of his own partner to 
change the game. It would be a change for him to sub- 
stitute himself for tho player who has declared to go 
alone. Whenever this declaration is made by the player 
who has the "say," it creates an obligation on the other 
side to play against a lone hand, and on his part to play 
the lone hand. This obligation his partner cannot be per-* 
mitted to break.] 

44. "When a player announces that he will play alone, 
his partner must place his cards upon the table, face 
downwards, and should the latter expose the face of any 
of his cards, either by accident or design, his opponents 
may compel him to play or not to play with his partner, 
at their option. 

45. A player who goes alone must announce his inten- 
tion in a clear and audible way and tone, so that no doubt 
can be entertained of his design. If he expresses his pur- 
pose in a vague and ambiguous manner, so that it is not 
clearly understood by his adversaries, and he or they make 
a lead, he forfeits his privilege, and must play with his 
partner. 

INTIMATION BETWEEN PARTNERS. 

46. If a partner indicates his hand by word or gesture 
to his partner, directs him how to play, even by telling 
him to follow the rules of the game, or in any way acts 
unfairly, the adversary scores one point. 

3 6 4 



Euchre. 

47. If a player, when they are at a bridge, calls the 
attention of his partner to the fact, so that the latter 
orders up, the latter forfeits the right to order up, and 
either of the opponents may play alone, if they choose 
so to do. 

[ " What are trumps?" " Draw your card." " Can you 
not follow suit?" "I think there is a revoke?" The 
above remarks, or those analogous, are the only ones 
allowed to be used, and they only by the person whose 
turn it is to play. 

48. No player has a right to see any trick but the last 
one turned. 

ON ADOPTING OR TAKING UP THE TRUMP. 

As to what constitutes a sufficient force of cards to take 
the trump up, is a matter of considerable importance to 
the player. The purpose being to make a point, of course 
there must be a reasonable probability of taking three 
tricks, and this probability should be made, to a certain 
extent, dependent upon the position of the game. If the 
dealer should be three or four on the score, while the 
opponents are one or two, the deal might be passed by 
turning the trump down, and still the chances of gaining 
the game be not materially reduced ; but if the position 
should be reversed, then the dealer would be warranted 
in attempting the hazard upon a light hand, as the pros- 
pects of defeat with the deal in his favor would be no 
greater than the percentage of the same against him. Of 
course any player would know that his success would be 
beyond peradventure, if holding both Bowers and the 
Ace. The moment you attempt to point out what any- 
thing less would avail, you depart from the scope of 
argument, predicated upon substantial bases, to the 
unsubstantial realms of hypothesis. Anything less than 
both Bowers and the Ace might be euchred, and the plod- 

3 6 5 



Euchre. 

ding player who exhausted his time in the search of abso- 
lute certainty might be beaten a hundred times by the 
cards which he had rejected. It is generally accepted as 
"sound doctrine," that three trumps— two of them being 
Court cards, backed by a lay ace — is sufficient to attempt 
a point. The player must note the state of the game, and 
act accordingly. If the game stand four and four, it is 
better for him to take up the trump on a small hand than 
to leave it for his adversaries to make. Suppose the game 
is three and three, he should be very careful of adopting 
the trump on a weak hand, because a euchre puts his 
opponents out. 

ON PASSING AND ORDERING UP. 

No prudent player will "order" the trump unless he 
holds enough to render his chances of success beyond 
reasonable doubt. There are times and positions of the 
game when, however, there would be no imprudence in 
ordering up upon a light hand ; for instance, supposing 
the game to stand four and four, the dealer turns the 
trump, and either the eldest or third hand has an ordinary 
good show of cards, with nothing better of another suit, 
there it would be proper to order up, for should the trump 
be turned down, your chances of success would be lost, 
and in case you are euchred, it would but give the game 
to those who would win it anyhow at another suit. 

If the position of the player is eldest hand, and a suit 
should be turned in which he receives both Bowers and 
another large trump, and he has also two cards of the 
corresponding suit in color, it would clearly be his policy 
to pass, for the obvious reason that if the dealer's partner 
snould assist, he would be enabled to euchre the opposing 
side, and if the trump were turned down, his hand would 
be just as good in the next suit ; and having the first 
opportunity of makig the trump, he could go it alone, 
with every probability of making the hand and scoring 
four. 

366 



Euchre. 

Should the eldest hand hold the Righ'; Bower, Ace or 
King, and another small trump, and a card of the same 
color as the trump suit, it would be good play to pass; for 
if the adversaries adopt the trump, he will, in all proba- 
bility euchre them ; and if they reject it, he can make the 
trump the next in suit, and the chances of scoring a point 
are in his favor. 

"When a player is four and holds commanding trumps 
sufficient to make a sure point, he should order up, par- 
ticularly if he is eldest hand, for then he will take his 
opponent's deal. 

As a general rule the eldest hand should not order up 
the trump, unless he has good commanding cards, say, 
Right Bower, King and Ten of trumps, with a lay Ace of 
a different color, or Left Bowsr, King and two numerical 
trumps. The player at the right of the dealer should 
hold a very strong hand to order up the trump, because 
his partner has evinced weakness by passing, and if the 
opposing side turn down the trump, his partner has the 
first say to make a new trump. 

ON MAKING THE TRUMP. 

If the dealer turns the trump down, the eldest hand has 
the privilege of making it what he pleases, and the rule to 
be generally followed is, if possible, to Dutch it, t. e., to 
make it next in suit, or the same color of the trump turned. 
The reason for this is very evident. If Diamonds should 
be the trump turned, and the dealer refuse to take it up, 
it would be a reasonable supposition that neither of the 
Bowers were in the hands of the opponents ; for if the 
dealer's partner had held one of them, he would iu all 
probability have assisted ; and the fact of its being turned 
down by the dealer also, raises the presumption that ho 
had neither of them. Then, in the absence of either 
Bower, an otherwise weak hand could make the point in 
the same color. For reverse reasons, the partner of the 

367 



Euchre. 

dealer would cross the suit, and make it Clubs or Spades; 
as his partner had evidenced weakness in the red suit by 
turning a red ca~d down, it would be but fair to presume 
that his strength was in the black. 

Be careful how you make the point when your adver- 
saries have scored three points, and, as a general rule, do 
not make or order up a trump unless you are eldest hand 
or the dealer's partner. 

ON ASSISTING. 

"Assisting" is where your partner is the dealer, and, 
with the help of the card he has turned trump, you deem 
your hand sufficient to take three tricks. In other words, 
suppose the Ace of Hearts to be turned, and you hold the 
Left Bower and King; you say to your partner, "I assist," 
and then he is obliged to take up the Ace turned and dis- 
card, the same as though he had taken it up voluntarily. 
Two Court-cards are considered a good assisting hand ; 
but where the game is very close, of course it is advisable 
to assist, even upon a lighter hand ; for if the game stands 
four and four, the first hand will order up if the card 
turned is the best in his hand, and therefore the fact of his 
passing would be an evidence of weakness. 

"When assisted by your partner, and you hold a card 
next in denomination to the card turned up (whether 
higher or lower), play it as opportunity offers. For in- 
stance, if you turn up the Ace, and hold either the Left 
Bower or King, when a chance occurs play the Bower or 
King, and thus inform your partner that you have the 
Ace remaining. The same policy should be adopted 
when your partner assists and you have a sequence of 
three trumps, the trump card being the smallest of the 
three, in such a situation inveriably play the highest card 
of the sequence, this will inform your partner that you 
hold the balance of the sequence, and with this knowledge 
he can shape his play to suit circumstances. Supposing 
368 



Euchre. 

the King is turned up and you hold the Queen and Ten 
Spot, when an occasion presents itself play the Queen 
and if pour partner is au fait at the game he will know 
you have the Ten Spot in your hand. 

As a general rule, always assist when you can take two 
tricks. 

ON THE LONE HAND. 

There is still another privilege allowed the nolder of a 
good hand, and that is to play it alone. If from the full- 
ness of your hand there is a reasonably possibility that 
you can secure all the tricks, you play it alone, or without 
the assistance of your partner, and if successful, you are 
entitled to a score of four points, 

In order to avail yourself of the privilege of going alone, 
it is necessary that you should assume the responsibility 
of the trump ; that is, you must adopt, order up, or make 
the trump ; or your partner must assist, order up, or make 
the trump ; but you cannot play alone with a trump you 
have passed, or with a trump the making of which you 
have passed. Having complied with the above require- 
ments, there is no abridgement to the right to play alone, 
except when the attempt has been anticipated by your 
adversay ordering up the trump, which a prudent player 
will always do in certain positions of the game. (See "the 
Bridge.") Should your partner announce that he will 
play alone, you cannot supersede him and play alone 
yourself, but must place your cards upon the table, face 
downwards, no matter how strong your hand may be. 
You must also bear in mind, that order to avail yourself 
of the privilege of playing alone, it is necessary to declare 
your intention of doing so distinctly and in plain terms, 
thus: " I play alone ;" if you fail to do this and the ad- 
verse side make a lead, you forfeit all claim to the privi- 
lege. You must also be careful and make the an- 
nouncement in good season ; if you neglect to do so, and 

3 6 9 



Euchre. 

the adverse side make a lead, or if you lead yourself before 
declaring your intention of playing alone, you lose the 
the right, and your opponents may compel you to play 
with your partner. 

Some players mey have an absurd notion that one side 
may play alone against the other, and in case of the 
failure of the original player to take three tricks, that the 
adverse side may score four points. This is, however, 
directly opposed to the axiom in euchre, that only those 
can play alone that take the responsibility of the trump, 
and incur the chance of being euchred. 

In playing a lone hand it is always a great advantage to 
have the lead. The next advantage is to have the last 
play on the first trick, therefore the eldest hand and the 
dealer may assume the responsibility of playing alone on a 
weaker hand than either of the other players. 

When your opponent is playing alone, and trumps a suit 
you or your partner leads, be sure and throw away all 
cards of that suit upon his subsequent leads, provided you 
do not have to follow suit. 

When opposing a lone hand and your partner throws 
away high cards of any particular suit, you may be sure 
he holds good cards in some other suit ; you should there- 
fore retain to the last the highest card oft the suit he 
throws away (if you have one) in preference to any other 
card, unless it be an ace of some suit. 

THE BRIDGE. 

If one side has scored four and the other one, such posi- 
tion is called a ' ' bridge, ' ' and the following rule should 
be observed : 

To make the theory perfectly plain, we will suppose A 
and B to be playing against C and D, the former being 
four in the game and the latter but one. C having dealt, 
B first looks at his hand, and finds he has but one or two 
small trumps ; in other words a light hand. At this stag* 

37o 



Euchre. 

of the game it would be his policy to order up the trump, 
and submit to being euchred, in order to remove the pos- 
sibility of C or D playing it alone ; for if they should by 
good fortune happen to succeed, the score of four -would 
give them the game ; when, if it were ordered up, the 
most that could be done would be to get the euchre, and 
that giving but a score of two, the next deal, with its per. 
centage, would in all probability give A and B enough to 
make their remaining point and go out. If, however, B 
should have enough to prevent a lone hand, he can pass as 
usual, and await the result. The Right Bower or Left 
Bower guarded is sufficient, to block a lone hand. 

The eldest hand is the only one who should order up at 
the bridge, for if he passes, his partner may rest assured 
that he holds commanding cards sufficient to prevent the 
adversaries making a lone hand. If, however, the eldest 
hand passes, and his partner is tolerably strong in trumps, 
the latter may then order up the trump to make a point 
and go out, for by the passing of the eldest hand his part- 
ner is informed that he holds one or .more commanding 
trumps, and may therefore safely play for the point and 
game. 

The eldest hand should always order up at the bridge 
when not sure of a trick ; the weaker his hand, the greater 
the necessity for doing so. 

ON DISCARDING. » 

"When the dealer takes the trump up before the play 
begins, it is his duty to discard or reject a card from his 
hand, in lieu of the card taken up. We will suppose the 
Ten of Hearts to be turned, and the dealer holds the 
Right Bower, with the Ace and Nine Spot of Clubs and 
King of Diamonds ; the proper card to reject would be 
the King of Diamonds, for there would be no absolute 
certainty of its taking a trick. The Ace might be held by 
the opponents, and by retaining the Ace and Nine spot of 

371 



Euchre. 

of Clubs, the whole suit of Clubs might be exhausted by 
the Ace, and then the Nine Spot would be good ; or, if the 
trump should be one of the red suits, and the dealer held 
three trumps and a Seven of Spades and a Seven of Hearts, 
it would be better to discard the Spade, for, as the dealer's 
strength was in the red suit, the probabilities would be 
that the other side would be correspondingly weak, and 
and therefore the Heart would be better than the Spade. 
Where you have two of one suit and one of another to 
discard from, always discard the suit in which you have 
one card, for then you may have an opportunity to'* 'ruff." 

THE LEAD. 

"We have seen that the game is opened by the eldest 
hand leading, and much depends upon this feature of the 
game. 

Where a dealer has been assisted, it is a common prac- 
tice to lead through the assisting hand, and frequently 
results favorably ; for, in the event of the dealer having 
but the trump turned, a single lead of trump exhausts his 
strength, and places him at the mercy of a strong suit of 
lay cards. It is not, however, always advisable to lead a 
trump, for if the eldest hand holds a tenace, his duty is to 
maneuvre so as to secure two tricks ; but this is only an 
exceptional case. The proper method of determining the 
nature of the lead is indicated by the quality of the hand 
and the purpose to be accomplished. The eldest hand, 
holding two Aces and a King with two small trumps, 
of course would lead trump through an assisting hand, 
for the reason that the only hope of securing a euchre 
would be dependent upon the success of the lay suits, and 
they only can be made available after the trumps have 
been exhausted. 

Where the dealer takes the trump voluntarily, the eldest 
hand is of course upon the defensive, and to lead trump 
under such circumstances would be disastrous. 
372 



Euchre. 

Should your partner have the Right Bower turned, lead 
a small trump ; by so dong you will be sure to weaken 
your adversary's hand. 

When your partner makes the trump or orders it up, 
lead him the lest trump you hold. Do this in any case. 

When you hold the commanding cards they should be 
led to make the march; but if you are only strong enough 
to secure your point, side cards should be used ; put the 
lowest on your partner's lead, if it be a commanding card; 
the highest on your adversary's. 

"When opposed to a lone hand, always lead the best card 
you have of a lay suit, so that the possibility of your part- 
ner's retaining a card of the same suit with yourself may 
be averted ; particularly if it is a card of opposite color 
from the trump, for if a red card should be trump and an 
opponent played it alone, there would be more probability 
of his not having five red cards than of his holding that 
number, and the further chance that if he did hold five 
red cards, it would, in like proportion, reduce* the proba- 
bility of your partner having one of the same suit, and 
give him an opportunity to weaken your opponent's hand 
by trumping it. 

The exception to the above rule is, when you hold two 
or three cards of a suit, including Ace or King, and two 
small cards in other suits ; in this case your best play 
would be to lead one of the latter and save your strong 
snit, for the reason that your partner may hold command- 
ing cards in your weak suits, and thus you give him a 
chance to make a trick with them, and if this does not 
occur, you have your own strong suit in reserve, and may 
secure a trick with it. 

When playing to make a lone hand, always lead your 
commanding trump cards first, reserve your numerical 
trumps and lay suit for the closing leads. When you have 
exhausted your commanding trumps, having secured two 
tricks, and retain in your hand a numerical trump and 

373 



Euchre. 

two cards of a lay suit, lead the highest of the lay suit to 
make the third trick, then your trump. For instance, 
suppose Hearts are trumps, and you hold the Right and 
Left Bowers and Ten of Trumps, and Ace and Nine of 
Spades, lead your Bowers, then the Ace of Spades, fol- 
lowing with the Ten of Trumps and your lay Nine. The 
reason for playing thus is obvious. You may not exhaust 
your adversaries' trumps by the first two leads, and if 
either of them were to retain a trump card superior to 
your Ten, by leading the latter you would, in all proba- 
bility, suffer the mortification of being euchred on a lone 
hand. For example — we- will suppose one of your oppo- 
nents holds the Queen, Seven and Eight of trumps, with a 
small Diamond and Club, or two of either suit ; he would 
play the small trumps on your Bowers, and if you led the 
Ten of trumps he would capture it with his Queen, and 
lead you a suit you could not take. Your chance of 
escape from such a dilemma would be very small. On the 
other hand, if on your third lead you were to lead the lay 
Ace, you would force your adversary to play his remain- 
ing trump, and allow you to win the point. 

When you hold three small trumps and good lay cards, 
and desire to euchre your opponents, lead a trump, for 
when trumps are exhaused you may possibly make your 
commanding lay cards win. 

"When you make the trump next in suit, always lead a 
trump, unless you hold the tenace of Right Bower and 
Ace, and even then it would be good policy to lead the 
Bower, if you hold strong lay cards. 

When you hold two trumps, two lay cards of the same 
suit, and a single lay card, lead one of the two lay cards, 
for you may win a trick by trumping the suit of which 
you hold none, and then, by leading your second lay card, 
you may force your opponents to tramp, and thus weaken 
them. With such a hand it would not be good play to 
lead the single lay card, for you might have the good 

374 



Euchre. 

fortune to throw away on your partner's trick, and ruff 
the same suit when led t y your opponents. 

When your partner has made or adopted the trump, it is 
bad play to win the lead, unless you are the fortunate 
possessor of a hand sufficiently strong to play for a march. 

If your partner assists you and has played a trump, and 
you have won a trick and the lead, do not lead him a trump 
unless you hold commanding cards, and are pretty certain 
of making the off! trick or a march, for your partner may 
have assisted on two trumps only, in which case such a 
lead would draw his remaining trump, and, in all proba- 
bility, prove fatal to his most cherished plans. 

When you have lost the first two tricks and secured the 
third, if you hold a trump and a lay card, play the former, 
for in this position of the game it is your only chance to 
make or save a euchre. There are only two exceptions to 
this rule, viz : when you have assisted your partner, or 
when he has adopted the trump and still retains the trump 
card in his hand. In the former instance you should lead 
the lay card, trusting to your partner to trump it ; in the 
latter case, you should also lead the lay card, unless your 
trump is superior to your partner's and your lay card is 
an Ace or a King, in which case you should play trump, 
and trust to the lay card to win the fifth trick. The 
reason for this play is very manifest : if your opponents 
hold a better trump than you, it is impossible to prevent 
them winning the odd trick, and therefore, the euchre or 
point ; but if they hold a smaller trump, your lead ex 
hausts it, and you may win the last trick with your lay 
card. This position frequently occurs in the game, and 
we recommend it to the attention of the novice. 

TRUMPS. 

In the game of euchre, nothing is more important than 
the judicious employment of trumps, and the successful 
issue of the game is, perhaps, more dependent upon a 

375 



Euchre. 

thoFougn knowledge of their power and use than all other 
points of the game combined. In the course of this article 
we have already had much to say about trumps, particu- 
larly in that portion which treats of the lead, but if our 
readers will permit, we propose to briefly notice one sub- 
ject which has remained untouched — that of trumping, or 
ruffling, as it is technically termed ; and if our ideas on 
the subject will prove of any service to the tyro in the 
game, we shall have accomplished all we designed, both 
by this and other portions of the present article. 

If your partner adopts or makes the trump, and you 
hold the Right or Left Bower alone, ruff with it as soon 
as you get the opportunity. 

When playing second, be careful how you ruff a card of 
a. small denomination the first time round, for it is an even 
chance that your partner will take the trick if you let it 
pass. "When such a chance presents itself, throw away 
any single card lower than an Ace, so that you may ruff 
the suit you throw away when it is led. 

When your partner assists and you hold a card next 
higher to the turn-up card, ruff with it when an oppor- 
tunity occurs, for by so doing you convey valuable infor- 
mation to your partner. 

When you are in the position of third player, ruff with 
high or medium trumps. This line of play forces the high 
trumps of the dealer; as at the game of whist, and thereby 
you weaken your adversaries. 

When your partner leads a lay Ace, and you have none 
of the suit, do not trump it, but if you have a single card 
throw it away upon it. 

CONCLUDING HINTS. 

Never lose sight of the state of the game. When you 
are four and four, adopt or make the trump upon a weak 
hand. 

When the game stands three to three, hesitate before 

376 



Euchre. 

you adopt or make a trump upon a weak hand, for a 
euchre will put your adversaries out. 

When you are one and your opponents have scored four, 
you can afford to try and make it alone upon a weaker 
hand than if the score was more favorable to you. 

When you are eldest hand and the score stands four for 
you and one for your opponents, do not fail to order up 
the trump, to prevent them from going alone. Of course 
you need not do this if you hold the Right Bower, or the 
Left Bower guarded. 

Be very careful how you finesse or underplay ; skillful 
players may attemp this in critical positions, but as a 
general rule the tyro should take a trick when he can. 

Never trump your partner's winning cards, but throw 
your losing and single cards upon them. 

When second hand, if compelled to follow suit, head 
the trick if possible ; this greatly strengthens your part- 
ners' game. 

EUCHRE WITH THE JOKER. 

A euchre pack is usually accompanied by a specimen 
blank card, which has given rise to this amusing variety 
of the game of euchre. It is called "the Joker," or 
highest trump card, and ranks above the Right Bower. 
If this "Joker" should happen to be turned for trump, 
the dealer has the privilege of naming any suit he pleases 
for trump. In all other particulars the game is played in 
the same manner as the regular game of euchre. 

TWO-HANDED EUCHRE. 

In this, as in the four-handed game, the deal being 
made, the non-dealer may pass or order up ; should he 
pass, the dealer, at his option, may pass or discard and 
take up the trump, when the game begins by the lead of 
the non-dealer ; but should the dealer think his hand not 
strong enough to risk a play, he too will pass, when his 

377 



Euchre. 

adversary may pass again or make a tramp (which, as a 
general rule, should be next in suit) ; if he pass a second 
time, the dealer has the right to make a trump or again 
pass, in -which case the cards are to be bunched, and the 
deal passed to the original non-dealer. 

If the dealer takes up the trump and plays the hand, he 
must win three tricks to make a point ; or should he take 
the five tricks, he make makes a ''march," which entitles 
him to score two points. Should he fail to make three 
tricks he is euchred, and his adversary counts two points. 
The same rules apply to the party ordering up or making 
the trump. 

In passing or ordering up, much will depend upon the 
state of the game, and what the player desires to ac- 
complish ; he may pass upon a good hand, when he has 
reason to believe that by so doing he will euchre his 
adversary, should he play the hand. In this case, too, he 
should have good reason to suppose that Ms adversary w ill 
take up the trump, or else have cards to make the trump 
himself. 

The player, remembering that he has but a single hand 
to contend against, may play or order up, if he has reason- 
able hope of making three tricks. 

Lead your strongest trumps first, until you have won 
two tricks, and then, having a trump left, lead some other 
card, so that if your adversary takes it, you may have a 
chance to trump the card he leads, and thus make your 
point. Having won two tricks, and your adversary being 
without a trump, play for a march by leading trumps or 
your highest cards. 

The deal is considered equal to a point, therefore never 
pass the deal unless to save a euchre. 

Having discarded, you have no right to take the card 
back and discard another, even though you have made a 
mistake. Your opponent must profit by your mistakes, 
as well as by your bad play or weak hand. 
378 



Euchre. 

The rules of the four-handed game apply equally to two 
handed euchre. 

THREE-HANDED EUCHRE. • 

This game, as its name indicates, is played by three per- 
sons, and as each one plays for himself, and is therefore 
opposed by two adversaries, the game requires closer 
attention, and the exercise of more judgment than any of 
the other euchre games. 

This variety of the game of euchre is, of course, in almost 
all points, identical with the four-handed game ; although 
the object of the players each being opposed to the other 
two become greatly modified by circumstances. The only 
point of difference is in the martfi, which gives the suc- 
cessful player three points following the analogy of the 
four-handed game, where a lone hand counts four — and the 
two-handed game, where a march counts two ; one for each 
player. 

In two-handed euchre the player may stand upon a 
slight hand, but not so in this game ; to stand or order up 
he must have a good hand, inasmuch as he has two hands 
combined against him, and should he be euchred, both 
adversaries count two. 

Another important feature of the game is, that the play 
varies according to the stage of the game ; for example — 
at the beginning of the game each player strives to make 
all he ean for himself; at the first play the dealer makes 
a march, and counts three ; the next dealer makes one 
point, and the third dealer one; the first dealer again deals 
and turns down the trump, No. 2 passes and No. 3 makes 
the trump and a point ; the game now stands thus : 

Dealer No. 1, 3 points. 

" " 2, 1 point. 

" "3, 2 points. 

379 



Euchre. 

No. 2 now has the deal, and should he be euchred, No. 
1 wins the game ; therefore, while No. 1 plays to win the 
game by a euchre, No. 3 plays to let the dealer make a 
point, which would make the game stand thus : 

No. 1, 3 points. 

" 2, 2 points. 

"3, 2 points. 

The deal is now with No. 3, and he will play to make a 
a march and go out ; No. 1 will oppose, and if possible, 
euchre No. 3, which would of course put him out. It is, 
however, evidently the policy of No. 2 to prevent the 
euchre, and allow No. 3 to gain a point, that each may 
have another chance to win the game. No. 1 and No. 3 
are now both three and No. 1 deals, but not having a 
strong hand and fearing a euchre, he turns down the 
trump. No. 2 makes the trump and a point, his adver- 
saries playing to prevent him making a march. Each 
player is now three, and No. 2 deals; but as all are anxiou s 
to win the game witnout dividing the honor or profit, the 
dealer is permitted to make a point, but not a march, if 
his opponents can prevent it. 

No. 3 next strives to win by a march, but, as in the last 
case, his adversaries play to prevent him making more 
than one point, and the same strife occurs when No. 1 
deals. 

Now, as each player is four, the game must terminate 
with the next deal, so that the dealer must either make 
his point or be euchred, in which case both his ad- 
versaries win, and therefore on the last deal both non- 
dealers play the strength of their combined game against 
the common enemy, and thus beat him if they can. The 
dealer, however, has a remedy against a defeat, which is 
in this : if, upon examining his hand, he believes he can- 
not make a point, he can pass, and thus throw the deal 
elsewhere, thus having one more chance to win, and the 
same policy may be pursued by each player, until the 
380 



Euchre. 

game is played out. If two players go out together in 
consequence of a euchre, the elder hand of the two 
wins. 

SET-BACK EUCHRE. 

This game may be played by two or more persons, and 
is governed by the same rules as ordinary euchre, except 
in the manner of counting, as hereinafter explained. It is 
quite amusing and exciting, especially when played for 
money. 

Suppose four persons sit down to play, and agree that 
the pool shall be one dollar ; each one contributes twenty- 
five cents. At the beginning of the game each player is 
five, and now the struggle commences to wipe out these 
scores and thus win the game. Each player plays for 
himself, and all are combined against him who orders up 
or plays the hand. Should any one not win a single trick, 
he has one point added to his score, and whoever is 
euchred is obliged to put another quarter into the pool, 
and has two points added to his score. 

The player who thinks he cannot take a trick has the 
right to throw up his hand, and thus save himself from 
being set back. The player who is the fust to reduce his 
score to nothing wins the game and the pool. 

A march counts from two to six points, corresponding 
with the whole number of players in the game. 

The above is the game of set-back euchre pure and 
simple, but various modifications are frequently intro- 
duced. The following are the most popular of these : 

After a trump is made, ordered up, or taken up, should 
any player deem himself possessed of a sufficient force of 
trumps to make a march, he will say, "I declare,"— 
which signifies he will play to make all the tricks — and if 
he is successful in making the march, he wins the game 
aud pool, no matter how many points are scored against 
him. Should he, however, be unsuccessful in the under- 

38i 



Euchre. — Sixty-Six. 

taking, he forfeits double the number of points against 
him, and in addition must pay in the pool the penalty of a 
euchre. For instance, if a player stands with seven points 
to go, and declares without making the march, he must be 
"set back" to fourteen points, and pay a quarter to the 
pool. The player who declares to make a march has the 
privilege of the lead, aud becomes eldest hand, unless he be 
the dealer; but if the dealer declares, he does not have that 
privilege. In some circles it is customary for the unsuccess- 
ful players to pay the winner of the pool a certain sum (previ- 
ously agreed upon) for each point they have to go wnen 
the game is concluded; this is not however considered a 
rule to be strictly followed, but may be left to the option 
of the players. 

Another variety of this game is played as follows : 
When the party adopting, making, or ordering up the 
trump is euchred, ke is set back two points, while his 
adversary scores two, as in the ordinary game. 



SIXTY-SIX. 



This is a German game, but has gained much fame in 
the United States, from the fact that it is very scientific, 
and it may be considered in the first rank among games. 

Twenty-four cards are used, viz : The Ace, Ten, King, 
Queen, Jack and Nine of each suit. The cards are valued 
as in the order named above, trumps of course being the 
superior suit. 

In cutting for deal, Ace is high and the Ten next, and 
so on in accordance with their value in the game. 

The cards are shuflled by the dealer and cut by the 
382 






Sixty-Six. 

eldest hand. Six cards are then dealt, three at a time, and 
the trump turned as in Euchre. Misdeals are dealt over 
again by the same dealer. A peculiar feature of the game 
is that the player who holds the uine of trumps may ex- 
change it at any time (after he has taken a trick), at his 
option, for the trump card turned up. 

The eldest hand leads first, but afterwards the winner 
of the trick has the lead. After each trick, each player 
takes a card from the top of the pack, in rotation, the 
winner taking the first card and the loser the next ; this 
continues until the pack is exhausted or one of the players 
closes or shuts down, as it is sometimes called. (See 
terms used in Sixty-Six.) 

The game is seven points, and they are made in the fol- 
lowing manner : The player scoring sixty-six first is en- 
titled to one point, but if he should score sixty-six before 
the other players have scored thirty-three, then he is 
entitled to two points, or if his opponents should not take 
a trick, then he is allowed three points. 

The cards count as follows : Each Ace, eleven ; each 
Ten, ten ; each King, four ; each Queen, three ; each 
Jack, two. 

If at any time after he has taken a trick, the player has 
a King and Queen in the same suit in his hand, he may 
declare them by leading one of them out and showing the 
other, this enitles him to twenty points. If they are the 
King and Queen of trumps, they count forty. 

The player who obtains sixty-six first announces the 
fact, and that closes the round ; but if he should claim 
sixty-six and his cards do not show that number, he for- 
feits two points to his opponent. 

THE RULES OF SIXTY-SIX. 

1. After the game is closed or shut down, no more cards 
can be drawn from the pack, and if the player who shut 

383 



Sixty-Six. 

down fails to make sixty-six, his opponent scores two 
points. 

2. If a player should shut down before his opponent has 
taken a trick, and then fails to make sixty-six, his oppo- 
nent is entitled to three points. 

3. Before the game is shut down and the pack is ex- 
hausted, neither player is compelled to follow suit, but is 
at liberty to play any card he pleases, but after the shut- 
down, each player must not only follow suit but is com- 
pelled to take each trick that he can, no throw-offs being 
allowed, and if he cannot follow suit must trump. Any 
failure to observe this rule forfeits the count on that hand 
and adds two points to his opponents score. 

4. Players may examine the last trick taken, but no 
others. 

5. When sixty-six is declared, all unemployed cards are 
void, and the round is ended. 

6. If at the end of a round, each player counts sixty-five 
points, neither score ; but the one who wins the next 
round is allowed one point in addition to what he may 
then make. 

7. If a player should have dealt to nim the Ace, Ten, 
King and Queen of trumps he may lay down his hand and 
claim three points, as these cards count sixty-eight. 

8< The discarding of the nine of trumps for any other 
card must be done before the last card in the pack is 
drawn. 

9. If the trump be turned down, the exchange must be 
made before another card is played. 

10. Marriages can be announced only when it is the 
announcers lead. 

11. Marriages can be announced after the shut-down or 
after the pack is exhausted. 

384 



BACKGAMMON. 



BLACK. 
Black's Home, or Inner Table. Black's Outer Table. 




White'* Home, or Inner Table. White's Outer Table. 
WHITE. 

This is a mixed game, being a combination of chance and 
calculation. Its derivation is a vexed question, both as to 
whence it came and how it acquired its present designa- 
tion. " La Maison des Jeux Academiques" abandons its ori- 
gin as a desperate problem, and Dr. Henry claims its name 
as a Welsh compound, from "bach," little, and " cammon," 
battle. On the other hand, Bp. Kennett and Strutt derive it 
from the Anglo-Saxon, viz., from "bac," back, and " gamone," 
a game, that is to say, a game where players are exposed to be 
sent back. Perhaps this may satisfy the antiquarian and be 
accepted as a sufficient offering to the etymologist. It would 
have been a mere recreation in chronology, to have dis- 
puted all the probabilities for assigning Backgammon to the 

385 






BACKGAMMON. 

antediluvian age. One portion of its machinery consists of 
dice — now dice defy chronology. Their types are found in 
Etruscan tombs and in the hieroglyphics of Egypt; and the 
historian of Chaeronea asserts, that Mercury had a throw of 
the dice once upon a time with the Goddess Luna. 

From Chaucer we gather that the early name of Backgam- 
mon, or at all events its synonyme, was " Tables j" at which 
period it was played with three dice, and all the " men " 
commenced their action from the adversary's table. Back- 
gammon has always been a particularly respectable instru- 
ment of amusement, like the Organ in " She Stoops to con- 
quer." Even Whist has not escaped defilement, but Back- 
gammon " was never a vulgar game, never beloved of lackeys." 
Shakspeare has used it as a medium for his philosophy, and 
Bacon has served bail for its good behaviour. 

Backgammon is played by two persons, with two boxes and 
two dice, upon a quadrangular table or board, on which are 
figured 24 points or fl&ches, of two colours, placed alternately. 
The board is divided into four compartments, two inner and 
two outer ones, each containing six of the 24 points (alter- 
nate colours.) The players are each furnished with fifteen 
men or counters, black and white (usually draughts.) These 
are arranged upon the board, in the following manner. To 
play into the left hand table, two of your men are placed upon 
the ace point of your opponent's inner table, five upon the 
sixth point in his outer table (numbered 12 in our diagram,) 
three upon the cinque-point in your own outer table num- 
bered 8,) and five upon the sixth point, in your own inner 
table. The adversary's men are to be placed in correspond- 
ing order, in a position directly opposite. All this is shown 
in the diagram annexed, and to facilitate reference the points 
or fleches are numbered from 1 to 12 of each colour. 

The game consists in moving your men from point to point, 
so as to bring them round into your own inner table (i. e., 
that on your left hand,) and then moving or bearing them off 
the board. The player who first clears off his men wins. 

The moves of the men are determined by the throws of the 
dice, according to the directions for playing, at page 394. It 
will there be seen that the most advantageous throw at the 
outset is that of aces, as it blocks the bar or sixth point in your 
other table (numbered 7,) and secures the cinque-point in 
386 



GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS. 

your inner table, so that your adversary's two men cannot 
move if he throw either quatre, cinque, or size. This throw 
is frequently conceded to inferior players, at the commence- 
ment of the game, by way of odds. 

As the grand object of the game consists in bringing round 
your men into your own inner table, all throws that contribute 
towards that end, and prevent your adversary from doing the 
same are advantageous, and vice versa. During the progress 
of the game you should endeavour to block up or detain a 
part of your adversary's men, in your own tables ; and to 
obstruct his re-entering such of them as you may happen to 
have taken up, unless all your own men have passed his main 
body, and are so far advanced to your inner table (which we 
will here call home) as to possess the best chance, should he 
seek to win by running away. 

At the commencement of the game the players must agree 
towards which end of the board they will play. Each party 
plays into one of the tables on his own side; thus, if Black 
plays into his left-hand table, White plays into his right (i. e., 
that which is exactly opposite,) and vice versa, their men 
advancing in contra-position to each other, as in the annexed 
diagram. 

For a right of first play each party throws a single die ; he 
who throws the highest number wins, and may, if he chooses, 
adopt and play the joint number of the preliminary throw. 
If he reject, then the first step is made by his throwing both 
the dice, and moving any one of his men to an open point at 
the distance indicated by one of the dice, and then moving 
another man (or the same man farther on, if he think proper,) 
to another open point indicated by the number of the second 
die. This completes his move, his adversary then follows in 
a similar manner, and so on alternately to the end of the 
game. Thus, double aces (which count as 4) would entitle 
you (say White) to move two men from 8 w. to 7 w., and 
two from 6 w. to 5 w., which covers the bar point (No. 7,) 
and also covers the cinque point in your inner table, and then, 
should your next throw be 5 and 6, you would play the five 
from 12 b. to 8 w., and so cover the blot before left; and 
you would play the six from 12 b. to your bar point. Pairs 
count double ; thus, sixes entitle you to move four men, each 
six points forward, and you may either move four together, 

387 



BACKGAMMON 

say, from 12 B. to 7 W., or two together, as, say, two from 
1 b. to your adversary's bar point (No. 7,) and two from 12 
b. to 7 w. (your own bar point,) or singly, — as, say, a single 
man from 1 b. to 1 w. in your own inner table, presuming 
that your adversary had ceased to occupy it. 

The direction in which your men move is from the adverse 
inner table over the bar, through the adversary's outer table 
round into your own outer table, and then over your bar, 
home. 

When during the progress of the game only a single man 
is left on a point, it is called " a blot," and is exposed to be 
taken by the adversary, who generally endeavours to " hit " 
the blot by bringing one of his own men to that point. When 
a man is thus captured it must be removed, and placed upon 
the bar (i. e., the division joint of the table,) and the player 
to whom it belongs cannot move again, until he has " entered 
his man." This can only be effected by throwing a number 
which is vacant, or is left a " blot" on the adversary's inner 
table, playing it as from a point off the board, adjoining to 
the adversary's ace point. Towards the end of the game, 
when most of the points in your adversary's inner table are 
covered (i. e., have two or more men on each,) it becomes 
difficult to enter, and you must remain on the bar, till you 
have either thrown the exact number required to suit per- 
haps a single open point, or till more points are exposed, 
by your adversary having played some of his men off the 
table. When all the six points are blocked, it is of course 
useless your throwing, and your adversary throws alone. 
" Hitting" a blot frequently adds extreme variety and interest 
to the game. 

When doublets are thrown, four moves are played of the 
distance indicated by the dice, instead of two, as usual in 
ordinary throws. For instance, should two quatres be thrown, 
any of the following moves may be played, either one man 
may be moved sixteen points ; two men each eight points ; 
one man eight, and two men four points ; or four men four 
points each. Should, however, the points indicated by the 
throw of the dice be covered, the moves are lost. For in- 
stance, if double quatres be cast, and the first fourth point 
from all the player's men be covered by the adversary, the 
move is lost ; although the eighth, twelfth, and sixteenth points 
388 



GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS. 

be uncovered, as the first fourth point, if occupied, cannot be 
passed over. 

If, during the course of the game, every point upon which 
a man could be moved is covered by the adversary's men, 
your men are compelled to remain in statu quo, and the 
adversary takes his turn. If one man only can be played, 
it must be played. 

When a player has brought all his men home, he must 
begin to " bear them," i. c, to take them off the board. For 
every number thrown a man is removed from the correspond- 
ing point, until the whole are borne off. In doing this, 
should the adversary be waiting to " enter " any of his men 
which have been "hit," care should be taken to leave no 
"blots" or uncovered points. In "bearing off" doublets 
have the same power as in the moves, four men are removed ; 
if higher numbers are on the dice than on the points, men 
may be taken from any lower point, thus if double sixes are 
thrown, and the point has been already stripped, four men 
may be removed from the cinque point of any lower number. 
If a low number is thrown, and the corresponding point hold 
no men, they must be played up from a higher point. Thus, 
if double aces be thrown, and there are no men upon the ace 
point two or more men must be played up from the higher 
points, or a fewer number played up and taken off. 

If one player has not borne off his first man before the 
other has borne off his last, he loses a "gammon," which is 
equivalent to two games, or " hits." If each player has 
borne off it is reduced to a " hit," or game of one. If the 
winner has borne off all his men before the loser has carried 
his men out of his adversary's table, it is a " back-gammon," 
and usually held equivalent to three hits or games. 



Calculation of the Chances. 

As it is necessary for a learner to know how many points 
he ought to throw upon the two dice, one throw with another ; 
we will take the following method to demonstrate it. 

There are thirty-six chances upon two dice, the points of 
which are as follows : 

34* 389 



BACKGAMMON. 



2 ace- 

2 deuces . 

2 trois 

2 fours . 
fives 
sixes 

and 5 twice 
and 4 twice 

6 and 3 twice 

6 and 2 twice 
and 1 twice 
and 4 twice 
and 3 twice 
and 2 twice 
and 1 twice 
and 3 twice 
and 2 twice 
and 1 twice 
and 2 twice 
and 1 twice 
and 1 twice 



i • 



Points. 

4 

8 
12 
16 
20 
24 
22 
20 
18 
16 
14 
18 
16 
14 
12 
14 
12 
10 
10 

8 

6 



Divided by 36 




294 divided by 36, shows that, one throw with another, you 
may expect to throw 8 upon two dice. 

The chances upon two dice are as follows : 

Points. 

2 sixes ........ 

2 fives ....... 

2 fours 

2 trois 

2 deuces ....... 

*2 aces ....... 

6 and 5 twice ...... 2 

6 and 4 twice ...... 2 



Carried over 



10 



390 



CALCULATION OF THE CHANCES. 






6 and 3 twice 
6 and 2 twice 
*6 and 1 
5 and 4 
5 and 3 



Brought forward 



5 and 

*5 and 

4 and 

4 and 

*4 and 



twice 
twice 
twice 
twice 
twice 
twice 
twice 
twice 



3 and 2 twice 



*3 and 
*2 and 



twice 
twice 



Points 

10 
2 

2 
2 

2 
2 
2 
2 

2 
2 
2 

2 
2 
2 

35 



To find out by this table, what are the odds of being hit, 
upon a certain, or flat die, look in the table, where thus* 
marked, 

Points. 
*2 aces . ... 1 



*6 and 1 twice ..... 
*5 and 1 twice ..... 
*4 and 1 twice ..... 
*5 and 1 twice . 
*2 and 1 twice ..... 


2 

. 2 

2 
o 

2 


Total .... 


11 


Which deducted from 
The remainder is . 


36 
25 



By this it appears, that it is twenty-five to eleven against 
hitting an ace, upon a certain, or flat die. 

The like method may be taken with any other flat die, as 
with the ace. 

What are the odds of entering a man upon one, two, three, 
four, or five points ? 

391 



BACKGAMMON. 

Reduced, 
for. against. for. against. 

A. to enter it upon 1 point is 11 to 25, or about 4 to 9 

upon 2 points 20 " 16^ " 5 " 4 

upon 3 points 27 " 9, " 3 " 1 

upon 4 points 32 " 4, " 8 " 1 

upon 5 points 35 " 1, " 35 " 1 

What are the odds of hitting, with any chance, in the 
reach of a single die ? 

Reduced, 
for. against. for. against. 

A. to hit upon 1 is 11 to 25, or about 4 to 9 

upon 2 " 12 " 24, " 1 " 2 

upon 3 " 14 " 22, " 2 " 3 

upon 4 " 15 " 21, " 5 " 7 

upon 5 " 15 " 21, « 5 " 7 

upon 6 « 17 " 19, " 8£" 9 J 



What are the odds of hitting with double dice ? 



Reduced. 



Keduced. 
for. against. for. against 

A. To hit upon 7 is 6 to 30, or about 1 to 5 

upon 8 " 6 " 30, " 1 " 5 

upon 9 " 5 " 31, " 1 " 6 

upon 10 " 3 " 33, « 1 " 11 

upon 11 " 2 " 34, " 1 « 17 

upon 12 (or 2 sixes) 1 " 36, " 1 " 36 

To explain farther how to use the table of thirty-six 
chances, to find the odds of being hit upon any certain or flat 
die, this second example is added to show how to find by that 
table the odds of being hit upon a 6. 

a sixes . . • • • • • a 

2 trois .... .1 

2 deuces 1 

6 and 5 twice ..... 2 

6 and 4 twice . . . . .2 

6 and 3 twice ..... 2 

6 and 2 twice . . . . .2 



Carried oyer . . 11 



892 



GENEKAL INSTRUCTIONS. 

Brought forward . .11 

6 and 1 twice 2 

5 and 1 twice ..... 2 
4 and 2 twice 2 

17 

Which deducted from . 36 
The remainder is . . 19 

So that it is nineteen to seventeen against being hit upon 
at 6. 

The odds of 2 love are about 5 to 2, 
and of 2 to 1 are 2 " 1, 

and of 1 love is 3 " 2. 

General Instructions. 

I. If you play three up at Backgammon, your principal 
view, in the first place, is to secure your own, or your adver- 
sary's cinque point, or both ; when that is effected, you may 
play a pushing game, and endeavour to gammon your adver- 
sary. 

II. The next best point (after you have gained your cinque 
point) is to make your bar point, thereby preventing your 
adversary's running out with doublet sixes. 

III. After you have proceeded thus far, prefer the making 
your quatre point in your own table, rather than the quatre 
point out of it. 

IV. Having gained these points, you have a fair chance to 
gammon your adversary, if he is very forward : For, suppose 
his tables are broke at home, it will be then your interest to 
open your bar point, and to oblige him to come out of your 
tables with a six ; and having your men spread, you not only 
may catch that man which your adversary brings out of your 
tables, but you will also have a probability of taking up the 
man left in your tables ("upon supposition that he has two men 
there). If he should nave a blot at home, it will then be 
your interest not to make up your tables; because, if he 
should enter upon a blot, which you are to make for the 
purpose, you will have a probability of getting a third man ; 
which, if accomplished, will give you, at least, 4 to 1 of the 

393 



BACKGAMMON. 

gammon ; wfcereas, if you have only two of his men up, the 
odds are that you do not gammon him. 

V. If you play for a hit only, 1 or 2 men taken up of your 
adversary's, makes it surer than a greater number, provided 
your tables are made up. 

Directions how to carry your Men home. 

VI. When you carry your men home, in order to lose no 
point, you are to carry the most distant man to your adver- 
sary's bar point, that being the first stage you are to place it 
on; the next stage is six points further, viz., the place where 
your adversary's five men are first placed out of his tables ; 
the next stage is upon the six point in your tables. This 
method is to be pursued till all your men are brought home, 
except two, when, by losing a point, you may often save your 
gammon, by putting it in the power of two fives, or two fours 
to save it. 

VII. If you play to win a hit only, endeavour to gain either 
your own or your adversary's cinque point; and if that fails, 
by your being hit by your adversary, and you find that he is 
forwarder than you, you must throw more men into his table. 
Thus : put a man upon your cinque or bar point, and if your 
adversary neglects to hit it, you may then gain a forward in- 
stead of a back game ; but if he hits you, you must play a 
back game, and then the greater the number of men which 
are taken up, the better it makes your game, because you by 
that means preserve your game at home ; and you must then 
always endeavour to gain both your adversary's ace and trois 
points, or his ace and deuce points, and take care to keep 
three men upon his ace point, that if you chance to hit him 
from thence, that point may remain still secure to you. 

VIII. At the beginning of a set do not play for a back 
game, because by so doing you would play to a great disad- 
vantage, running the risk of a gammon to win a single hit. 

Directions for Playing at setting out the Thirty-six Chances 
of Dice, for a Gammon, or for a Single Hit, 

I. Two aces (the best of all first throws), to be played two 
on your cinque point, and two on the bar point for a gammon, 
or for a hit. 

EL Two sixes (the second best throw), should be played 
394 



DIRECTIONS FOR PLAYING AT SETTING OUT, ETC. 

two od your adversary's bar point, and two on your own bar 
point, for a gammon, or a hit. 

III. Two trois, two be played on your cinque point, and 
the other two on your trois point in your own tables, for a 
gammon only 

IV. Two deuces to be played on the quatre point in your 
own tables, and two to be brought over from the five men 
placed in your adversary's outer tables, for a gammon only. 

V. *Two fours, to be brought over from the five men placed 
in your adversary's outer tables, and to be put upon the 
cinque point in your own tables, for a gammon only. 

VI. Two fives, to be brought over from the five men placed 
in your adversary's outer tables, and to be put on the trois 
point in your own tables for a gammon, or a hit. 

VII. Size ace, you are to make your bar point, for a gam- 
mon, or for a hit. 

VIII. Size deuce, a man to be brought from the five men 
placed in your adversary's outer tables, and to be placed on 
the cinque point in your own tables, for a gammon, or a hit. 

IX. Six and three, a man to be brought from your adver- 
sary's ace point, as far as he will go, for a gammon, or a hit. 

X. Six and four, a man to be brought from your adversary's 
ace point, as far as he will go, for a gammon, or a hit. 

XI. Six and five, a man to be carried from your adversary's 
ace point, as far as he can go, for a gammon, or a hit. 

XII. Cinque and quatre, a man to be carried from your 
adversary's ace point, as far as he can go, for a gammon, or 
a hit. 

XIII. Cinque-trois, to make the trois point in your table, 
for a gammon, or a hit. 

XIV. Cinque-deuce, to play two men from the five placed 
in your adversary's outer tables, for a gammon, or a hit. 

XV. Cinque-ace, to bring one man from the five placed in 
your adversary's outer tables for the cinque, and to play one 
man down on the cinque point in your own tables for the ace, 
for a gammon only. 

XVI. Quatre-trois, two men to be brought from the five 
placed in your adversary's outer tables, for a gammon, or a 
hit. 

XVII. Quatre-deuce to make the quatre point in your own 
tables, for a gammon, or a hit. 

395 



BACKGAMMON. 

XVIII. Quatre-ace, to play a man from the five placed in 
your adversary's outer tables for the quatre, and for the ace, 
to play a man down upon the cinque point in your own tables, 
for a gammon only. 

XIX. Trois-deuce, two men to be brought from the five 
placed in your adversary's tables, for a gammon only. 

XX. Trois-aee, to make the cinque point in your own tables, 
for a gammon, or a hit. 

XXI. Deuce-ace, to play one man from the five placed in 
your adversary's tables for the deuce ; and for the ace, to play 
a man down upon the cinque point in your own tables, for a 
gammon only. 



Directions how to Play the Chances that are marked thus (*) 
when you are only to Play for a Hit. 

I. *Two trois, two of them are to be played on your cinque 
point in your own tables, and with the other two take the 
quatre point in your adversary's tables. 

II. *Two deuces, two of them are to be played on your 
quatre point in your own tables, and with the other two take 
the trois point in your adversary's tables. 

The two foregoing cases are to be played in this manner, for 
this reason, viz., That thereby you avoid being shut up in 
your adversary's tables, and have the chance of throwing high 
doublets to win the hit. 

III. *Two fours, two of them are to take your adversary's 
cinque point in his tables ; and for the other two, two men 
are to be brought from the five placed in your adversary's 
tables. 

IV. 1. *Cinque-ace, play the cinque from the five men 
placed in your adversary's tables, and play the ace from your 
adversary's ace point. 

V. 2. *Quatre-ace, play the quatre from the five men 
placed in your adversary's tables, and the ace from the men 
on your adversary's ace point. 

VI. 3. *Deuc3-ace, play the deuce from the five men placed 
in your adversary's tables, and the ace from your adversary's 
ace point. 

The three last chances are played in this manner, for, by 
396 



OBSERVATIONS, HINTS, AND CAUTIONS. 

laying an ace down in your adversary's tables, you have a 
probability of throwing deuce ace, trois deuce, quatre trois, 
or size cinque, in two or three throws ; in any of which cases 
you are to make a point, which gives you the better of the 
hit. 

You may observe, by the directions given in this chapter, 
that you are to play nine chances out of the thirty-six in a 
different manner for a single hit, to what you would do when 
playing for a gammon. 



Some Observations, Hints, and Cautions, which are to be 
attended to. 

I. By the directions given to play for a gammon, you are 
voluntarily to make some blots, the odds being in your favor, 
that they are not hit; but should it so happen, that any blot 
is hit, as in this case, you will have three men in your adver- 
sary's table, you must then endeavour to secure your adver- 
sary's cinque, quatre, or trois point, to prevent a gammon, 
and must be very cautious how you suffer your adversary to 
take up a fourth man. 

II. Take care not to crowd your game at any time, if pos- 
sible. What is meant by crowding a game, is the putting 
many men either upon your trois or deuce point in your own 
tables; which is, in effect, losing those men, by not having 
them in play. 

Besides, by crowding your game, to attempt to save a gam- 
mon, you are often gammoned ; because when your adversary 
finds your game open, by being crowded in your own tables, 
he may then play his game as he thinks fit. 

III. By recourse had to the calculations, you may know 
what are the Odds of your entering a single man upon any 
certain number of points, and by that means you may play 
your game accordingly. 

IV. If you are obliged to leave a blot, by recourse to the 
calculation for hitting it, you will find the chances for and 
against; and consequently you will be enabled to judge how 
to play your game to the greatest advantage. 

V- You will also find by the calculations, the odds for and 

35 397 



BACKGAMMON. 

against you, upon being bit by double dice, and consequently 
you will cboose such a method of play as is most to your 
advantage. 

VI. If it is necessary to make a run, in order to win a hit, 
and you would know to a point which is the forwarder, take 
the following method : 

Begin with reckoning how many points you must have, to 
bring home to your size point in your own tables, the man 
that is at the greatest distance from it, and do the like by 
every other man that is abroad ; when the numbers of those 
absentees are summed up, add to them the following numbers 
for those already in your own tables, (supposing the men that 
were abroad as on your size point for bearing) namely, six for 
every man on the size point, five for every man on the cinque 
point, four for every man on the quatre point, three for every 
man on the trois point, two for every man on the deuce point, 
and one for every man on your ace point. Do the like to 
your adversary's game, and then you will know which of you 
is forwardest, and likeliest to win the hit. 



Observations and Directions for a Learner who lias made some 
Progress at Back-gammon; particularly Directions for 
bearing his men. 

I. If your adversary be greatly before you, never play a 
man from your quatre, trois, or deuce points, in order to bear 
that man from the point where you put it, because nothing 
but high doublets can give you any chance for the hit ; there- 
fore, instead of playing an ace or a deuce from any of the 
aforesaid points, always play them on from your size or highest 
point ; by which means you will find, that throwing two fives, 
or two fours, will, upon having eased your size and cinque 
points, be of great advantage to you : Whereas, had your size 
point remained loaded, you must, perhaps, be obliged to play 
at length those fives and fours. 

II. Whenever vou have taken up two of your adversary's 
men, and happen to have two, three, or more points made 
in your own tables, never fail spreading your men, in order 
either to take a new point in your tables, or to be ready to 
hit the man your adversary may happen to enter As soon 

398 



BOW TO BEAR YOUR MEN. 

as he enters one of his men, you are to compare his game 
with your's; and if you find your game equal to his, or 
better, never fail taking his man up, if you can, because it is 
25 to 11 against his hitting you; which chance being so much 
in your favor, you ought always to run that risk, when you 
have already two of his men up. 

There is this exception to this rule, that if you play for a 
single hit only, and your playing that throw otherwise gives 
you a better chance for the hit, you ought not to take up that 
man. 

III. Never be deterred from taking up any one man of 
your adversary's, by the apprehension of his hitting you with 
double dice, because the fairest probability your adversary 
has of hitting you, is 5 to 1 against him. 

IV. If you should happen to have five points covered in 
your tables, and to have taken up one of your adversary's 
men, and are obliged to leave a blot out of your tables, rather 
leave it upon doublets, than any other chance, because dou- 
blets are 35 to 1 against his hitting you, and any other chance 
is but 17 to 1 against him. 

V. Two of your adversary's men in your tables, are better 
for a hit, than any greater number, provided your game be 
forwardest, because his having three or more men in your 
tables, gives him more chance to hit you, than if he had only 
two men there. 

VI. If you are to leave a blot, upon entering a man in 
your adversary's tables, or otherwise, and have it in your 
choice to leave it upon what point you please, always choose 
that which is the most disadvantageous to him. To illustrate 
this by an example, let us suppose it his interest to hit you or 
take you up as soon as you enter, in that case leave the blot 
upon his lowest point ; that is to say upon his deuce, rather 
than upon his trois point, or upon his trois, preferable to 
his quatre point; or upon his quatre, preferable to his cinque 
point ; because, (as has been mentioned before) all the men 
your adversary plays upon his trois, or his deuce points, 
are deemed as lost, being in a great measure out of play, 
those men not having it in their power to make his cinque 
jjoint, and consequently his game will be crowded there, and 
open elsewhere, whereby you will be able also much to annoy 
him. 

399 



BACKGAMMON, 

VII. To prevent your adversary from bearing his men to 
the greatest advantage, when you are running to save your 
gammon ; as, for instance, suppose you should have two men 
upon his ace point, and several other men abroad, though you 
should lose one point or two in putting your men into your 
tables, yet it is your interest to leave a man upon your adver- 
sary's ace point, which will have this consequence ; that it 
will prevent his bearing his men to the greatest advantage, 
and will also give you the chance of his making a bolt, which 
you may chance to hit. But if, upon a calculation, you find 
that you have a throw, or a probability of saving your gam- 
mon, never wait for a blot, because the odds are greatly 
against hitting it. 



Cases, showing how to calculate the odds of saving or winning 

a Gammon. 

I. Suppose your tables are made up, and that you have 
taken up one of your adversary's men ; and suppose your 
adversary has so many men abroad as require three throws to 
put them in his tables. 

It is then about an equal wager that you gammon 
him. 

Because, in all probability, you will bear two men before 
you open your table, and when you bear the third man, you 
will be obliged to open your size or cinque point ; in that case 
it is probable that your adversary must take two throws before 
he enters his man in your tables, and two throws more before 
he puts that man into his own tables, and three throws more 
to put into his own tables the men which were abroad, which 
in all, make seven throws ; and as you have twelve men to 
bear, these probably will take seven throws in bearing, because 
you may twice be obliged to make an ace, or a deuce, before 
you can bear all your men. 

No mention is made of doublets on either side, that event 
being equal to each party. 

The foregoing case shows it is in your power to calculate 
very nearly the odds of saving or winning a gammon upon 
most occasions. 

II. Suppose I have three men upon my adversary's ace 
400 



ODDS OP SAVING OR WINNING A GAMMON. 

point, and five points in my tables, and that my adversary has 
all his men in his tables, three upon each of his five highest 
points : 

What is the probability for his gammoning me, or not ? 

For his bearing 3 men from his 6 point, is 18 

from his 5 point, 15 
from his 4 point, 12 
from his 3 point, 9 
from his 2 point, 6 
Total, 60 

To bring my three men from my adversary's 
ace point, to my size point in my tables, 

being for each 18 points, makes in all 54 

The remainder is 6 

And besides the six points in your favor, there is a further 
consideration to be added for you, which is, that your adver- 
sary may make one or two blots in bearing, as is frequently 
the case. You see by this calculation, that you have greatly 
the better of the probability of saving your gammon. 

This case is supposed upon an equality of throwing. 

III. Suppose I leave two blots, neither of which can be 
hit but by double dice ; to hit the one, that cast must be 
eight, and to hit the other it must be nine ; by which means 
my adversary has only one die to hit either of them. 

What are the odds of his hitting either of these bolts ? 

The chances on two dice are in all, 36. 

The chances to hit 8 are, 6 and 2 twice, . . .2 

5 and 3 twice, . 2 

2 deuces, . . 1 

2 fours, ... 1 

The chances to hit 9 are, 6 and 3 twice, . . 2 

5 and 4 twice, . 2 

2 trois, ... 1 

Total chances for hitting, . 11 

Remaining chances for not hitting, . . 25 

So that it is 25 to 11 that he will not hit either of those 
blots. 

35* 401 



BACKGAMMON. 

IV. To give another example, let us suppose that I leave 
two other blots than the former, which cannot be hit but by 
double dice, the one must be hit by eight, and the other by 
seven. 

What are the odds of my adversary's hitting either of 
these blots ? 

The chances on two dice are in all, 36. 

The chances to hit 8 are, 6 and 2 twice, . . 2 

5 and 3 twice, . . 2 

two fours, ... 1 

two deuces, . . 1 

The chances to hit 7 are, 6 and 1 twice, . . 2 

5 and 2 twice, . . 2 

4 and 3 twice, . . 2 

m — 

Total chances for hitting, . . 12 

Remain chances for not hitting, . . 24 

Therefore it is two to one that I am not hit 

The like method is to be taken with three, four, or five blots 
upon double dice ; or with blots made upon double and single 
dice at the same time ; you are then only to find out (by the 
table of 36 chances) how many there are to hit any of those 
blots, and add all together in one sum, which subtract from 
the number of 36, which is the whole of the chances upon two 
dice : so doing resolves any question required. 

V. The following cases are to show a way of calculating, 
which may be called a mechanical way of solving questions 
of the like nature. 

What are the odds of throwing 7 twice, before 10 once ? 

It is 5 to 4 that 10 is thrown once before 7 is thrown 
twice, which is demonstrated as follows : 

Suppose the stake depending- is nine pounds, my first throw 
entitles me to have one-third part of that money, because 7 
has 6 chances for it, and 10 has but 3 chances, and therefore 
it is two to one. 
402 



CRITICAL CASES. — BACK GAMES. 

For the first throw, . . . . £3 0$. Qd. 

Having taken SI. out of the 9/. for the first throw, 
the remainder is 6/. out of which a third part 
is to be taken for the second throw 2 



The total is, 5 
Remains, 4 



The whole stake is, £9 



VI. What are the odds of entering a man upon any cer- 
tain point in two throws ? 

Suppose 36 shillings is the whole stake depending, what is 
my share of that stake, having laid 18 shillings that I enter 
in two throws ? By the calculations in the table of 36 
chances, it is found that I have 11 chances out of the 36 for 
entering the first throw, for which therefore I am entitled to 
11 out of the 36 shillings. 

The stake is, 36 






For the first throw, 11 



Remains, £0 25 



The remainder, being 25 shillings, is to be divi- 
ded into 36 equal parts, of which I am enti- 
tled to eleven of those parts, which makes 7s. 
7%d. } for the second throw . . 7 7£ 



Adding this to the other 11 shillings, makes my 

share of the stake to be . , . 18 7J 

Then my adversary's share will be . . 17 4£ 



Total of the stake, £0 36 



Therefore it is very nearly 15 to 14 in favor of entering a 
man upon any certain point in two throws. 

Chapter VIII. — Critical case for a Back-game. 

I. Let us suppose A plays the fore-game, and that all his 
men are placed in the usual manner : 

403 



BACKGAMMON. 

For B's game, suppose that fourteen of his men are placed 
upon his adversary's ace point, and one man upon his adver- 
sary's deuce point, and that B is to throw. 

Which game is likeliest to win the hit ? 

A's is tne best by 21 for, to 20 against; because, if B 
misses an ace to take his adversary's deuce point, which is 25 
to 11 against him, A is, in that case, to take up B's men in 
his tables, either singly, or to make points ; and if B secures 
either A's deuce or trois point, in that case, A is to lay as 
many men down as possible, in order to be hit, that thereby 
he may get a back-game. 

When you are pretty well versed in the game of Back- 
gammon, by practising this back-game, you will become a 
greater proficient in the game than by any other method, be- 
cause it clearly demonstrates the whole power of the back- 
game. 

Back-game. 

II. Let us suppose A to have five men placed upon his size 
point, five men upon his quatre point, and five men upon his 
deuce point, all in his own tables : 

And suppose B to have three men placed upon A's ace 
point, three men upon A's trois point, and three men upon 
A's cinque point; let B also have three men upon his size 
point in his own tables, and three men placed out of his 
tables, in the usual manner : 

Who has the better of the hit ? 

It is an equal game; but to play it critically, the difficulty 
lies upon B, who is in the first place to endeavour to gain his 
cinque and quatre points in his own tables ; and when that 
is effected, he is to lay two men from A's cinque point, in 
order to oblige his adversary to blot, by throwing an ace, 
which, if B hits, he will have the fairest probability of win- 
ning the hit. 

Back-game. 

III. Suppose A has three men upon B's ace point, and 
three men upon B's deuce point, also three men upon his size 
point in his own tables, and three men upon his usual point 
out of his tables, and three men where his five men are usually 
placed in his adversary'! tables : 

404 



EXAMPLES OP CRITICAL POSITIONS. 

And let us suppose B has his men placed in the same man- 
ner, both in his own and his adversary's tables, with this dif- 
ference only, viz instead of having three men put upon A's 
deuce point, let him have three men upon A's trois point : 

Q. Who has the best of the hit ? 

A. A, because the ace and trois points are not so good for 
a hit, as the ace and deuce points in your adversary's tables, 
for when you are bearing your men, you have the deuce point 
in your own tables to play your men upon, which often pre- 
vents your making a blot, which must happen otherwise to 
your adversary ; and take care to lay down men to be hit as 
often as you can, in order to keep your game backward, and 
for the same reason avoid hitting any blots which your adver- 
sary makes. 

A Case of Curiosity and Instruction. 

IV. Let us suppose A has fifteen men upon B's ace point, 
B is supposed to have his bar point, also his size, cinque, qua- 
tre, and trois points in his own tables : 

How many throws is A likely to take to bring his fifteen 
men into his own tables, and to bear them ? 

A. You may undertake to do it in seventy-five throws. 

It is odds in A's favor that he throws an ace in two throws; 
it is also odds in A's favor that he throws a six in two throws ; 
when these events happen, A has a probability of not wanting 
above two or three throws to play till he has got all his fifteen 
men into his own tables : therefore, by a former rule laid 
down to bring your men home, and also for bearing your men, 
you may be able to find out the probability of the number of 
throws required. Note, B stands still, and does not play. 

A Case of Curiosity and Instruction. 

V. Where A and B shall play as fast as usual, and yet A 
shall make the hit last, probably, for many hours. 

We will suppose B to have borne thirteen men, and that A 
has taken up the two remaining men : 

And let us suppose that A has fifteen men in B's tables, viz. 
three men upon his size point, three men upon his cinque 
point, three upon his quatre point, three upon his trois point, 
two upm his deuce point, and one upon his ace point : 

405 



BACKGAMMON. 

The method, which A is to take, is this : let him bring L s 
fifteen men home, by always securing six close points, till b 
has entered his two men, and brought them upon any certain 
point ; as soon as B has gained that point, A must open an 
ace, deuce, or trois, or all three ; which effected, B hits one of 
them, and A, taking care to have two or three men in B's ta- 
bles, is ready to hit that man ; and also, he being assured of 
taking up the other man, has it in his power to prolong the 
hit to almost any length, provided he takes care not to open 
such points, a3 two fours, two fives, or two sixes, but always 
to open the ace, deuce, or trois points, for B to hit him. 

VI. To know what are the odds upon two dice, for throw- 
ing two sixes, two fives, or two fours, in three throws; by 
mechanical calculation, it may be found thus : 

A. Supposing 36 shillings to be the stake depending, s. d. 
the thrower will be entitled to have for his first throw, 3 
which deducted out of 36, remains 33 ; which divided 
again into 36 parts, make so many eleven pences, out 
of which the thrower is to have 3 for his second throw, 2 9 

The remainder, 30 shillings and three pence, is again 
to be divided into 36 parts; dividing the 30 shillings 
so, make so many ten pences, and the three pence divi- 
ded into so many parts, make so many thirds of farth- 
ings, of which the thrower is to have three parts for 
his share for his third throw . . . . 2 6 J 



Total for the thrower . 8 3 J 



So that it is 27s. 8fc?. to Ss. 3\d. against the thrower, 
which reduced into the smallest number, is very nearly as 10 
to 3, that two sixes, or two fives, or two fours, are not thrown 
in two throws. 

Back-game. 

VII. Suppose A to have two men upon his size point in 
his own tables, three men upon his usual point in his outer 
table, two men upon the point where his five men are usually 
placed in his adversary's tables, five men upon his adversary's 
ace point, and three men upon his adversary's quatre point : 

And suppose B to have two men upon his size point in his 
own tablen, three men upon his usual point in his outer table, 
406 



EXAMPLES OF CRITICAL POSITIONS. 

two men upon the point where his five men are usually placed 
in his adversary's tables, five men upon his adversary's ace 
point, and three men upon his adversary's trois point : 

Who has the fairest chance to win the hit ? 

A has, because he is to play either an ace, or a deuce, from 
his adversary's ace point, in order to make both these points 
as occasion offers ; and having the quatre point in his adver- 
sary's tables, he may more easily bring those men away, if 
he finds it necessary, and he will also have a resting place by 
the conveniency of that point, which at all times in the game 
will give him an opportunity of running for the hit, or stay- 
ing, if he thinks proper. Whereas B cannot so readily comt 
from the trois point in his adversary's tables. 

A Case of Curiosity, 

I. Let us suppose A and B place their men in the follow- 
ing manner for a hit : 

Suppose A to have three men upon his size point in his 
own tables, three men upon the usual point in his outer table, 
and nine men upon his adversary's ace, deuce, and trois 
points, three men to be placed upon each point ; and suppose 
B's men to be placed in his own, and in his adversary's 
tables, in the same order and manner. 

The result is, that the best player ought to win the hit ; 
and the dice are to be thrown for, the situation being per- 
fectly equal in A's and B's game. 

If A throws first, let him endeavour to gain his adversary's 
cinque point ; when that is effected, let him lay as many blots 
as possible, to tempt B to hit him ; for every time that B hits 
them will be in A's favor, because it puts B backward; and 
let A take up none of B's men for the same reason. 

A is always to endeavour to have three men upon each of 
his adversary's ace and deuce points; because when B makes 
a blot, these points will remain secure, and by recourse had 
to a former case (No. V. in the former chapter) when A has 
borne five, six, or more men, yet A may secure six close 
points out of his tables, in order to prevent B from getting 
his man home ; and by recourse had to the calculations, he 
may easily find out (in case he makes up his tables) who 
has the better of the hit ; and if he finds that B is forwarder, 

407 



BACKGAMMON. 

he is then to endeavour to lay such blots to be taken up by 
his adversary, as may give him a chance for taking up another 
man, in case B should happen to have a blot at home. 

Those who play the foregoing game well, may be ranked in 
the first form. 

A Case of Curiosity. 

II. A and B play at Backgammon. A has borne thirteen 
men, and has two men to bear upon his deuce point, B has 
thirteen men in his own tables, with two men to enter. B is 
to throw, and to name the throws both for himself and A, but 
not to hit a blot on either side : 

What throws is B to name for both parties, in order to 
save his gammon ? 

B calls for himself two aces, which eDter his two men upon 
A's ace point. B also calls two aces for A, and consequently 
A cannot either bear a man, nor play one; then B calls for 
two sixes for himself and carries one man home upon his size 
point in his own tables, and the other he places upon his ad- 
versary's bar point : B also calls size-ace for A, so that A has 
one man left to bear, and then B calls for himself either two 
sixes, two fives, or two fours, any of which bear a man, in 
case he has men in his own tables upon those points, and to 
save his gammon. 

II. The following question is to be attended to, as being 
critical and instructive : — 

Suppose that all the points both on yours and your adver- 
sary's tables are covered : 

Also that you have one man to carry home, but that he has 
two men on your barr point to carry home, which lie in wait 
to catch your man, and that if you pass him you are to win 
the hit: suppose also that you have it in your choice to run 
the risk of being hit, by 7, or by 8, both of which are chances 
upon double dice : — 

Which of these chances is it best for you to venture ? 

That of 7, for the following reasons : First, because that 
the chances of being hit by 7, or by 8, are equal. 

Secondly, If he does not hit 7, you will then have in your 
favor 23 chances to 13, that by your next throw you either 
hit him or pass beyond him. 

Thirdly, In case your second throw should happen to be 
408 



THE LAWS OF BACKGAMMON. 

under 7, and that consequently you cannot hit him, yet you 
may play that cast at home, and consequently leave the blot 
upon double dice. 

Whereas if, on the contrary, you had left the blot upon 8, 
you would have made a bad choice, for the reasons follow- 
ing :— 

First. Because the chances of being hit by 7, or by 8, are 
only equal. 

Secondly. Because if you should escape the being hit by 8, 
yet you would then have but 17 chances in your favor, 
against 19 for either hitting him, or passing beyond him by 
your next throw. 

Thirdly. In case your second throw should happen to be 
size-ace, which is short of him, you would then be obliged to 
play the man that is out of your tables, not being able to play 
the 6 at home, and consequently to leave a blot to be hit by 
a single (or flat) die ; which event, upon supposition that you 
play for 18 shillings a game, would entitle him to 11 shil- 
lings of the whole stake depending. 

THE LAWS OF BACKGAMMON. 

I. If you take a man from any point, that man must be 
played ; the same must be done if two men are taken from it. 

II. You are not understood to have played any man, till 
you have placed him upon a point, and quitted him. 

III. If you play with fourteen men only, there is no 
penalty attending it, because by playing with a lesser number 
than you are entitled to, you play to a disadvantage, by not 
having the additional man to make up your tables. 

IV. If you bear any number of men, before you have en- 
tered a man taken up, and which consequently you were 
obliged to enter, such men, so borne, must be entered again 
in your adversary's tables, as well as the man taken up. 

V. If you have mistaken your throw, and played, and if 
your adversary has thrown, it is not in your or his choice to 
alter it, unless both parties agree. 



36 409 



DRAUGHTS. 

This interesting and highly scientific game has, by several 
of the writers upon it, been held to have preceded chess, of 
which it is supposed to be the root or source. Whether it 
may claim descent from the Greeks or Scandinavians is a 
point that may be left to the antiquarian, without any great 
social loss should he never succeed in settling it. In like 
manner the attempt to confer upon it any higher character 
than that of a rational means for the employment of a leisure 
hour may as conveniently be spared. The utility — in a gen- 
eral sense — of any mere game of science or skill, may be a 
question for philosophy — but it is one with which those who 
treat of its practical details have nothing to do — and of which 
most probably they could make nothing, if they had. Chess, 
according to Sir William Jones, dates some four thousand 
years back : if Draughts anticipated it, then, upon the prin- 
ciple that " age is honorable " the recreation we are about to 
treat of is one of no mean pretensions.* 

We do not discover, from any written record, that Draughts 
was much practised in Europe till the middle of the sixteenth 
century. In 1668, an elaborate treatise upon it was published 
in Paris, written by a celebrated professor of mathematics, M. 
Mallet. Nearly a century later Mr. William Payne, teacher 
of mathematics, published his celebrated Introduction to the 
Game of Draughts, London, 1756. Subsequently, in 1767, 
appeared " a Companion for the Draught-player," by W. 
Painter, and there are other essays in type, but none that 
bear any comparison with " The Guide to the Game of 
Draughts, by Joshua Sturges, printed for the author, in Lon- 
don, 1800. " Sturges worked up the whole of his predecessor's 
treatise in his more extended work, and with so much care 
and diligence, that half a century has elapsed without disturb- 

• In Mr. Angas's " Savage Life and Scenes," it is stated that draughts 
is played by the savage tribes of the interior of New Zealand, under the 
name of E'mu, and that it does not seem possible they could have derived 
their knowledge of it from any other people. 

410 



DRAUGHTS. — ELEMENTARY. 



27 



mg the authority of his book. Mr Walker re-edited Sturges 
in 1835, and this improved edition is here given entire, with 
some additions by a skilful player of our metropolis, Mr. 
Martin. 

Draughts it should always be remembered is purely a game 
of calculation, and as such craves wary policy. It is played 
by two persons upon a board of sixty-four squares, colored 
alternately Black and White, or any other two opposite colors. 
The board is placed with an upper white corner on the right 
hand, which brings the double white square to the lower right- 
hand corner. 

Each player has twelve men ; which on beginning the game, 
are placed on their respective sides, on the first three lines of 
white squares. The following diagrams represent the board 
and men in their original position; and also the mode in 
which the squares are conventionally numbered for the sake 
of reference.* It will be seen that, throughout this work, 
the upper half of the board is occupied by the twelve Black 
men, and the lower half by their antagonists, the White. 



i mm 2 |1N Hi 4 




o 



o 






lo 



k&s. 



The men being placed, the game is begun by each player 
moving alternately one of his men, along the white diagonal 
on which they are first posted. The men can only move for- 
ward, either to the right or left, one square at a time, unless 
they have attained one of the four squares on the extreme line 

* Practised players who have studied printed games are generally so 
familiar with the numerical position of the square that they can read and 
comprehend a series of intricate mcves without even referring to the 
board. 

411 



28 DRAUGHTS. 

of the board, on which they become kings, and can move 
either forward or backward, but still only one square at a 
time. The men take in the direction they move, by leaping 
over anv hostile piece or pieces that may be immediately con- 
tiguous, provided there be o vacant white square behind 
them. The piece or pieces so taken are then removed from 
off the board, and the man taking them is placed on the 
square beyond. If several pieces, on forward diagonals, 
should be exposed by alternately having open squares behind 
them, they may all be taken at one capture, and the taking 
piece is then placed on the square beyond the last piece. To 
explain the mode of taking by practical illustration, let us 
begin by placing the draughts in their original position. You 
will perceive that if Black should move first he can only move 
one of the men placed on 9, 10, 11, or 12. — Supposing him 
then to play the man from 11 to 15, and White answering 
this move by playing his piece from 22 to 18, Black can take 
White by leaping his man from 15 to 22 and removing the 
captured piece off the board. Should Black not take in the 
above position, but move in another direction, — for instance, 
from 12 to 16, he is liable to be huffed; that is, White may 
remove the man with which Black should have taken, from 
the board, as a penalty for not taking ; for, at Draughts, you 
have not the option of refusing to take, as at Chess, but 
must always take when you can, whatever be the conse- 
quence. The player who is in a position to huff his adver- 
sary has also the option of insisting on his taking, instead of 
standing the huff. When one party huffs the other, in pre- 
ference to compelling the take, he does not replace the piece 
his adversary moved ; but simply removes the man huffed, 
from off the board, and then plays his own move. Should 
he, however, insist upon his adversary taking the piece, in- 
stead of standing the huff, then the pawn improperly moved 
must first be replaced. 

To give another example of huffing. Suppose a white man 
to be placed at 28, and three black men, at 24, 15, and 6, or 
24, 16, and 8, with unoccupied intervals, he would capture all 
three men, and make a king, or be huffed for omitting to take 
them all, and it is not uncommon with novices to take one 
man, and overlook a second or third, " en prise" (i. e. t liable 
to be taken.) 
412 



DRAUGHTS. — ELEMENTARY. 29 

When either of the men reaches one of the extreme squares 
of the board, he is, as already indicated, made a king, by 
having another piece put on, which is called crowning him. 
The king can move or take both forward or backward ; keep- 
ing, of course, on the white diagonals. Both the king and 
common man can take any number of pieces at once which 
may be " en prise" at one move, and both are equally liable 
to be huffed. For instance : if White by reaching one of 
the back squares on his antagonist's side, say No. 2, had 
gained a king, he might upon having the move, and the Black 
pieces (either kings or men) being conveniently posted at 
No. 7, 16, 24, 23, and 14, with intermediate blanks, take 
them all at one fell swoop, remaining at square 9. But such 
a coup could hardly happen in English draughts. One of 
the great objects of the game, even at its very opening, is to 
push on for a king ; but it is unnecessary to dwell much on 
the elementary part of the science, as the playing through 
one of the many games annexed, from the numbers, will do 
more in the way of teaching the rudiments of Draughts, than 
the most elaborate theoretical explanation. 

The game is won by him who can first succeed in capturing, 
or blocking up, all his adversary's men, so that he has nothing 
left to move ; but when the pieces are so reduced that each 
player has but a very small degree of force remaining ; and, 
being equal in numbers, neither can hope to make any decided 
impression on his antagonist, the game is relinquished as 
drawn. It is obvious that were this not the case, and both 
parties had one or two kings, the game might be prolonged day 
and night, with the same hopeless chance of natural termina- 
tion, as at the first moment of the pieces being resolved into 
the position in question. It has already been shown that when 
a man reaches one of the squares on the extreme line of the 
board, he is crowned and becomes a king; but there is 
another point relative to this, which it is necessary to under- 
stand. The man, thus reaching one of the extreme squares, 
finishes the move on being made a king, and cannot take any 
piece which may be " en prise." He must first await his 
antagonist's move, and should he omit to remove or fortify 
an exposed piece it may then be taken. To exemplify this, 
place a White man on 11, and Black men on 7 and 6 : — White, 
having the move, takes the man and demands that his own 

36* 413 



30 DRAUGHTS. 

man should be crowned ; but, he cannot take the man on 6 at 
the same move ; which he could do were his piece a king when 
it made the first capture. But if the piece be left there after 
the next move he must take it. 

In particular situations, to have the move on jour side, is 
a decisive advantage. This is a matter little understood by 
ordinary players, but its importance will fully appear by 
studying the critical situations. To have the move, signifies 
your occupying that position on the board which will eventu- 
ally enable you to force your adversary into a confined situa- 
tion, and which at the end of the game, secures to yourself 
the last move. It must, however, be observed, that where 
your men are in a confined state, the move is not only of no 
use to you, but, for that very reason, may occasion the loss of 
the game. To know in any particular situation whether you 
have the move, you must number the men and the squares, 
and if the men are even and the squares odd, or the squares 
even and the men odd, you have the move. With even men 
and even squares, or odd men and odd squares, you have not 
the move. This will be best explained by an example : Look, 
then, at the 8th critical situation, where White plays first; 
there the adverse men are even, two to two ; but the White 
squares, being five in number, are odd. The squares may be 
thus reckoned — from 26, a White king, to 28, a Black king, 
are three, viz. 31, 27, and 2-4 — The White squares between 
32, a White man, and 19, a Black man, are two, viz. 27 and 
23. You may reckon more ways than one, but reckon which 
way you will, the squares will still be found odd, and there- 
fore, White, so situated, has the move. When you have not 
the move, you must endeavour to procure it by giving man 
for man, a mode of play fully and successfully exemplified in 
this treatise. 

There is another mode which will, in less time than reckon- 
in* the squares, enable you to see who has the move. For 
instance, if you wish to know, whether any one man of your's 
has the move of any one man of your adversary's, examine 
the situation of both, and if you find a Black square on the 
right angle, under his man, you have the move : — For exam- 
ple, you are to play first, and your White man is on 30, when 
your adversary's Black man is on 3. In this situation, you 
will find the right angle in a black square between 31 and 32, 
414 






DRAUGHTS. — THE MOVE. 3l 

immediately under 3, and therefore you have the move This 
Rule will apply to any number of men, and holds true in 
every case. 

There is a third mode, more ingenious still, communicated 
by Mr. Martin, and now published for the first time. Count 
all the pieces (of both colours) standing on those columns 
(not diagonals) which have a white square at the bottom, and 
if the number be odd, and White has to play, he has the 
move ; if the number be even, the move is with Black. 

It is a mistake to suppose that any advantage is derived 
from playing first. It is admitted, that he who plays first has 
not the move, the men and squares being then both even j 
but, though he who plays second has the move, it can be of 
no service to him in that stage of the game. The truth is, 
that when the combatants continue giving man for man, the 
move will alternately belong to one and the other. The first 
player will have it at odd men, at 11, 9, 7, 5, 3, and lj the 
second player will have it at even men, at 12, 1 0, 8, 6, 4, and 
2 ) and therefore some error must be committed, on one side 
or the other, before the move can be forced out of that direc- 
tion. 

To play over the games in this work, number the White 
squares on your draught-board from 1 to 32, and remember 
that in our diagram the Black pieces always occupy the first 
twelve squares. The abbreviations are so obvious, that they 
cannot need explanation ; — a B. for Black, W. for White, 
Var. for Variation, &c. Occasionally, stars (asterisks) are 
introduced, to point out the move causing tne loss of the 
game. The learner begins with the first game, and finding 
the leading move to be 11. 15 (that is, from 11 to 15), knows 
that Black begins the game. The second move 22. 18 belongs 
to White, and the game is thus played out ; each party moving 
alternately. After finishing the game, the player proceeds to 
examine the variations to which he is referred by the letters 
and other directions. The numerous variations on some par- 
ticular games, and the consequent necessity each time of 
going through the leading moves up to the point at which the 
variation arises, will, probably, at first, occasion some little 
fatigue ; but this will be soon forgotten in the speedy and 
decided improvement found to be derived from this course of 
study. One of the minor advantages resulting from a 

415 



S2 DRAUGHTS. 

numerous body of variations is, that, in tracing them out, the 
leading moves are so frequently repeated that they become 
indelibly fixed in the mind of the player ; who thus remembers 
which moves are to be shunned as dangerous if not ruinous, 
and which moves are to be adopted as equally sound and 
scientific. 

As to general advice relative to draught-playing, next to 
nothing can be learnt from a volume of such instruction 
The various modes of opening will be seen by reference to the 
accompanying examples. Among the few general rules that 
can be given you should bear in mind, that it is generally 
better to keep your men in the middle of the board, than to 
play them to the side squares, — as, in the latter case, one-half 
of their power is curtailed. And when you have once gained 
an advantage in the number of your pieces you increase the 
proportion by exchanges ; but in forcing them you must take 
care not to damage your position. If you are a chess-player, 
you will do well to compare the draughts in their march and 
mode of manoeuvring with the Pawns at Chess ; which, as 
well as the Bishops or other pieces, are seldom so strong on 
the side squares as in the centre of the board. Accustom 
yourself to play slow at first, and, if a beginner, prefer play- 
ing with those who will agree to allow an unconditional time 
for the consideration of a difficult position, to those who rigidly 
exact the observance of the strict law. Never touch a man 
without moving it, and do not permit the loss of a few games 
to ruffle your temper, but rather let continued defeat act as 
an incentive to greater efforts both of study and practice. 
When one player is decidedly stronger than another, he should 
give odds to make the game equally interesting to both par- 
ties. There must be a great disparity indeed if he can give 
a man, but it is very common to give one man in a rubber of 
three games ; that is, in one of the three games, the superior 
player engages to play with only 11 men instead of 12. — 
Another description of odds consists in giving the drawn 
games ; that is, the superior player allows the weaker party 
to reckon as won, all games he draws Never play with a 
better player without offering to take such odds as he may 
choose to give. If you find yourself, on the other hand, so 
superior to your adversary, that you feel no amusement in 
playing even — offer him odds, and should he refuse, cease 
416 



DRAU -S. — LAWS OF THE GAMF. 



83 



playing with him unless he will play for a stake ; the losing 
which, for a few games in succession, will soon bring him to 
his senses, and make him willing to receive the odds you offer. 
Follow the rules of the game most rigorously, and compel 
your antagonist to do the same; without which, Draughts are 
mere child's play. Never touch the squares of the board with 
your finger, as some do, from the supposition that it assists 
their powers of calculation, and accustom yourself to play 
your move off-hand when you have once made up your mind : 
without hovering with your fingers over the board for a cou- 
ple of minutes, to the great annoyance of the lookers-on. 
Finally, bear in mind what may well be termed the three 
golden rules to be observed in playing games of calculation : 
— Firstly, to avoid all boasting and loud talking about your 
skill — Secondly, to lose with good temper — aud, Thirdly, to 
win with silence and modesty. 

LAWS OF THE GAME. 

1. The first move of each game is to be taken by the players 
in turn, whether the game be won or drawn. For the move 
in the first game at each sitting, the players must cast or 
draw lots, as they must for the men, which are, however, to 
be changed every game, so that each player shall use the 
black and white alternately. Whoever gains the choice may 
either play first, or call upon his adversary to do so. 

2. You must not point over the board with your finger, nor 
do any thing which may interrupt your adversary's full and 
continued view of the game. 

3. At any part of the game you may adjust the men pro- 
perly on the squares, by previously intimating your intention 
to your adversary. This in polite society is usually done by 
saying " J'adoube." But after they are so adjusted, if you 
touch a man, it being your turn to play, you must play him 
in one direction or other if practicable; and if you move a 
man so far as to be in any part visible over the angle of an 
open square, that move must be completed, although by mov- 
ing it to a different square you might have taken a piece, for 
the omission of which you incur huffing. The rule is " touch 
and niove." £Jo penalty, however, is attached to your touch- 
ing any man which cannot be played. 

4. In the case of your standing the huff, it i. c 3 optional on 

417 



84 DRAUGHTS. 

the part of your adversary, to take your capturing piece, 
whether man or king, or to compel you to take the piece or 
pieces of his, which you omitted by the huff. The necessity 
of this law is evident, when the young player is shown that 
it is not unusual to sacrifice two or three men in succession, 
for the power of making some decisive " coup." Were this 
law different, the players might take the first man so offered, 
and on the second's being placed "en prise," might refuse to 
capture, and thus spoil the beauty of the game, (which con- 
sists in the brilliant results arising from scientific calcula- 
tion,) by quietly standing the huff. It should be observed, 
however, that on the principle of " touch and move," the 
option ceases the moment the huffing party has so far made 
his election as to touch the piece he is entitled to remove. — 
After a player entitled to huff has moved without taking his 
adversary, he cannot remedy the omission, unless his adversary 
should still neglect to take or to change the position of the 
piece concerned, and so leave the opportunity. It does not 
matter how long a piece has remained " en prise" it may at any 
time either be huffed or the adversary be compelled to take it. 
When several pieces are taken at one move, they must not be 
removed from the board until the capturing piece has arrived 
at its destination ; the opposite course may lead to disputes, 
especially in Polish draughts. The act of huffing is not reck- 
oned as a move, a " huff and a move" go together. 

5. If, when it is your turn to play, you delay moving above 
three minutes, your adversary may require you to play ; and 
should you not move within five minutes after being so called 
upon, you lose the game ; which your adversary is adjudged 
to have won, through your improper delay. 

6. When you are in a situation to take on either of two 
forward diagonals, you may take which way you please ; with- 
out regard (as in Polish Draughts) to the one capture com- 
prising greater force than the other. For example, if one 
man is " en prise" one way and two another, you may take 
either the one or the other, at your option. 

7. During the game, neither party can leave the room 
without mutual agreement ; or the party so leaving forfeits 
the game. Such a rule, however, could only be carried out 
with certain limitations. 

8. When, at the end of the game, a small degree of force 
418 



DRAUGHTS. — LAWS OF THE GAME. 35 

alone remains, the player appearing the stronger, may be 
required to win the game in a certain number of moves ; and, 
if he cannot do this, the game must be abandoned as drawn. 
Suppose that three Black kings and two White kings were 
the only pieces remaining on the board ; the White insists that 
his adversary shall win or relinquish the game as drawn, after 
forty* moves (at most) have been played by each player. The 
moves to be computed from that point at which notice was 
given. If two kings remain opposed to one king only, the 
moves must not exceed twenty on each side. The number of 
moves once claimed they are not to be exceeded even if one 
more would win the game. A move, it should be observed, is 
not complete until both sides have played; therefore, twenty 
moves, so called, consist of twenty on each side. In giving 
the odds of " the draw," the game must, however, be played 
to a more advanced state than is required in any other case. 
When in such a game the situations become so equal that no 
advantage can be taken, he who gives the draw shall not occa- 
sion any unnecessary delay by uselessly repeating the same 
manoeuvres ; but shall force his adversary out of his strong 
position, or, after at most 20 moves, lose the game through 
its being declared drawn. 

9. By-standers are forbidden to make any remarks what- 
ever, relative to the game, until that game shall be played 
out. Should the players be contending for a bet or stake, 
and the spectator say anything that can be construed into the 
slightest approach to warning or intimation, that spectator 
shall pay all bets pending on the losing side, should that side 
win which has received the intimation. 

10. Should any dispute occur between the players, not satis- 
factorily determined by the printed rules, the question must be 
mutually referred to a third party, whose decision shall be con- 
sidered final. Of course, should a player commit anv breach 
of the laws, and refuse to submit to the penalty, his adversary 
is justified in claiming the game without playing it out. 

11. Respecting a false move, such as giving a common man 
the move of a king, or any other impropriety of the same sort, 
the law varies in different countries as to the penalty to be 
exacted by the opposite party. We cannot but suppose that 

• We think half the number would be better. 

419 



36 



DRAUGHTS. — LAWS OP THE GAME. 



415 



such mistakes are unintentional, and consider it sufficient 
penalty that in all such cases the piece touched must be 
moved to whichever square the adversary chooses ; or, he has 
the optiou of allowing the false move to stand, if more to his 
advantage. Should the piece be unable to move at all, that 
part of the penalty cannot be inflicted. 

12. The rule (almost universal with English Draughts) is 
to play on the white squares. The exception (limited we be- 
lieve to Scotland) is to play on the black. When, therefore, 
players are pledged to a match without any previous agree- 
ment as to which squares are to be played on, white must be 
taken as the law. The colour of the squares, excepting so 
far as habit is concerned, makes no difference in their relative 
position on the board. 

In all cases, a player refusing to take, to play, or to com- 
ply with any of the rules, loses the game. Hence the saying 
" Whoever leaves the game loses it." 

EXAMPLES OF GAMES, FROM STURGES 

14.18 
Drawn. 

B. 

25.21 

10. 14 

17. 10 

6. 15 

13. 6 
2. 9 

24.19 
15.24 
28.19 

9.14 
19. 15 
11.27 
20.11 

1. 6 
32.23 

6. 9 
23.19 

14. 17 
21.14 

• These asterisks, whererer they occur, denote the mores which cause the loss of 
the game. 

420 





(&« Explanations at page 410. ) 




27.23 


27.31 


22. 13 


6. 9 


GAME 1. 


6. 10 


*4. 8 


15.22 


25.21 


11.15 


16. 12 


31. 27 


26. 17 


9. 13 


22.18 


8. 11 


24. 20 


8. 12 A. 


11. 7 


15.22 


28.24 


27.23 


27.24 


W. wins. 


25. 18 


25.29 


8. 11 


3. 7 




8. llvar. 


30. 25 


23. 18 


30. 25 


A. 


19. 25 


29. 22 


11. 8 


7.10 


9. 14 


4. 8 


26. 17 


18.15 


24. 19 B. 


17. 10 


25.22 


11.15 


B. wins. 


10.14 


6 15 


12. 16 


20. 16 




17. 10 


27 24 


24.20 


15.18 


Var. 


6.24 


8.12 


10.15 


24.20 


12. 16 


13. 6D. 


24.19 


27. 24* 


18. 27 


29. 25 


1. 10 E. 


15.21 


16. 19 


31.24 


8.11 


28.19 


28. 19 


23. 16 


14.18 


24.20 


2. 6 


5. 9 


15. 19 


16.11 


10. 15 


31. 26 G. 


13. 6 


24. 15 


7.16 


25.22 


11.15 


1.10 


9. 14 


20.11 


4. 8 


20.11 


32.28 


18. 9 


18.23 


21.17 


15.24 


3. 7 


11.25 


11. 8 


7. 10 


23. 19 


28.24 


32.27 


23.27 


17. 14 


10.14 


10.14 


5. 14 


8. 4 


10.17 


26. 22 


31.26 



Examples of games. 



37 



9.18 


E. 


20. 16 


31.26 


23.19 


16.32 


11. 7 


2. 9 


24. 8 


15. 18 


"W. wins. 


24. 19 


18.22 


28.19 


17.14 


22. 15 




32.27 


7- 3 


9.14 


12. 19 


11.18 


A. 


31.24 


5. 9 


25.22 


14. 16 


32.28 


12. 19 


20.27 


3. 7 


1. 6 


8. 12 


2. 7 


27.23 


17. 14 


9. 13 


32. 28 


W. wins. 


30. 25 


7. 14 


27.31 


7.10 


6. OF. 




7.11 


23. 7 


21. 17 


22. 25 C. 


31. 27 


G. 


25.21 


W. wins. 


81.26 


10. 14 


9.13 


25. 22 


18.22 




25.21 


25.29 


27. 24 


6. 9 


26.17 


GAJ1B 3 


26.22 


31.27 


13.17 


32.28 


11. 15 


11. 15 


17. 13 


29.25 


22. 18 


9. 13 


l0. 1G 


22. 18 


22. 17 


Drawn. 


14.17 


28. 24 


15.18 


15.22 


14. 10 




23. 18 


10. 14 


24. 20 


25.18 


17. 14 


C. 


16.23 


31.26 


18.22 


8.11 


10. 7 


13 17 


24. 19 


13.17 


27.24 


29.25 


18.23 


10.14 


W. wins. 


22. 13 


22.26 


4. 8 


7. 3 


17 21 




14. 17 


19. 15 


25.22 


23.27 


14 17 


F. 


19, 15 


12. 19 


12.16 


3. 7 


22.25 


6. 10 


11.27 


13. 9 


24. 19 


14.18 


17.22 


28.24 


B. wins. 


6. 22 


16.20 


7-11 


25.29 


5. 9 




15. 6 


28. 24 var 1 


27.31 


22. 26 


31.27 


GAME 2. 


1.10 


8. 12 


11.16 


29. 25 


9. 13 


11. 15 


24. 6 


32.28 


31.27 


31. 27 


22. 18 


24.20 


Drawn. 


10. 15 


16.20 


W. wins. 


13. 17 


8.11 




19.10 


18.22 




18. 9 


22.18 


Var. 


7. 14 


B. wins. 


£>. 


17.22 


15.22 


9.13 


30.25 




28 19 


9. 5 


25.18 


17.14 


11.16 


Var. 1 


9 14 


22. 26 


4. 8 


16.19 


18. 15 


19.15 


25.22 


6. 2 


29.25 


23. 16 


3. 8 


10.19 


2. 6 


26.31 


10. 15 


8.12 


22.17 


23. 16 


22. 18 


2. 7 


25.22 


14.10 


14.18 


9.14 


6. 10 


10. 14 


12. 16 


7. 23 A. 


23.14 


18. 9 


18. 9 


19. 15 


21. 17 


16. 7 


9. 18 


5.14 


5. 14 


11.18 


7. lOvar. 


2.11 


26.23 


16.12 


13. 9 


20. 11 


17.13 


26.10 


6. 9 


11. 15 


14. 17 


31.26 


8.12 


6.15 


23.14 


27.23 


9. 6 


23. 19 


28.24 


28.24 


9. 18 


6. 10 


10.14 


26.23 


9. 14 


5. 9 


15.10 


31.27 


6. 2 


24.20 


18. 9 


27.23 


8.11 


8.11 


17.22 


23.32 


5. 14 


1 6 


10. 7 var 2 


22. 17 


19. 15 


7. 10 


23.19 


31.26 


11. 15 


15. 18 


11.27 


32. 27 


16.23 


6. 10 


7. 3 


30. 25 


20. 11 


10. 17 

1 27. 24 


20. 19 


32.28 


2. 7 


2. 6 A. 


Drawn. 


1 3. 8 


3. 7 


3.19 


23. 19 B. 






3 


7 




421 



8 




DRAUGHTS. 






11.15 


17.13 


25 22 


31.24 


26.22 


5. 14(vaf. 


28.24 


12.16 


17.13 


10.15 


23. 26 


24. 1911,2, 


6. 9 


25.21 


18.23 


19.10 


16. 11 


15.24(4 8 


17.13 


18.23 


8. 4 


12.19 


26.30 


28. 19 


1. 6 


Drawn. 


10.14 


24. 15 


11. 7 


14.47 


26.22 




24.20 


18. 9 


30.26 


32.27 


7.11 


GAME 4. 


22. 18 


28.24 


B. wins. 


10.14 


19.16 


11.15 


4. 8 


14.18 




27. 24 var 4 


3. 7 


22.18 


18.22 


24. 19 C. 


D. 


3. 7 


24.19 


15.22 


20.16 


18.23 


16. 12 


30. 25 var 5 


15.31 


' 25. 18 


22. 18 


19. 16 


10.14 


6. 9 


22. 8 


8.11 


8.11 


9. 14 


1. 5 


13. 6 


W. wins. 


29.25 


7. 10 


10. 6 


26.23 


1.10 




4. 8 


28. 24 B. 


23.27 


5. 1 


22.13 


A. 


25.22 


14.17 


6. 1 


23. 19 


14. 18 


1. 6 


12. 16 


24.20 


14. 10 


1. 6 


23.14 


17.13 


24.20 


10.14 


30.25 


19.15 


16.30 


11.15 


10. 14 


11. 8 


27.31 


6. 2 


25.21 


28.24 


27.24 


17. 22 


25.21 


15.11 


10.17 


7.11 


8.12 


8.11 


31.26 


2. 6 


21.14 


23. 19 


24.19 


14.17 


21. 17 D. 


3. 7 


30.25 


11. 16 


7. 10 


11.18 


26.23 


6. 10 


14. 9 


26.23 


32.27 


17. 21 


17. 13 


14. 18 


11.15 var 


6. 9 


9.13 


B. wins. 


10.14 


10. 3 


9. 6 


13. 6 


18. 9 




1. 5 


18.14 


2. 9 


2 9 


5.14 


A. 


23.19 


12. 8 


13. 6 


21.17 


22.18 


27.24 


16.12 


B. wins. 


15.18 


Drawn. 


1. 5 


3. 7 


19. 15 




6. 2 




18. 9 


26.22 


5. 1 


GAME 5. 


7. 10 


B. 


5.14 


14. 1,' 


15.10 


11. 15 


2. 6 


17.13 


19. 15 A. 


21.14 


1. 5 


22. 18 


10.14 


11.16 


11.18 


10.26 


10. 6 


15.22 


6. 9 


28.24 


20. 11 


31.22 


B. wins 


25.18 


25. 21 


1. 5 


18.22 


7. 10 




8.11 


31.26 


32.28 


26. 17 


30.25 


C. 


29.25 


14.17 


7. 11 


13.22 


10. 14 


30.26 


4. 8 


Drawn. 


26.22 


11. 8 


25.21 


9.14 


25. 22 




11. 15 


22.25 


13.17 


10. 6 


12.16 


Var.l. 


B. wins. 


8. 4 


22.13 


3. 8 


24.20 


23. 19 




25.29 


6. 9 


24.20 


10.15 


16.23 


Var. 2. 


4. 8 


Drawn. 


8.11 


21. 17 


26.19 


17. 14 


2. 7 




6. 1 


7. 10 


3. 7 


11. 15 


23.19 


B. 


11.15 


27.24 


31.27 


21.17 


29.25 


11. 7 


1. 6 


8. 12 


14.18 


16.19 


27. 24 


6. 9 


15.19 


17. 13 


30.25 


31.26 


14.18 


13. 6 


20. 16 


9 14 


11. 16 


2. 6 


; 21. 17 


23.27 


18.23 


1 18. 9 


20.11 


422 













EXAMPLES OF GAMES. 



39 



7.23 
25.21 
18.25 
27.11 
25.30 
11. 8 
30.26 

8. 3 
26.23 

3. 8 

23. 18 
8.11 

10. 14 

24. 19 
18.23 

11. 16 
14.17 
21.14 

6. 10 
14. 7 

2.20 
19.15 

1. 6 
B. wins. 

Var. 2. 
30.25 
14. 17 
25.21 
3. 7 

21. 14 
10.17 
24. 19 
15.24 
28. 19 

7.10 
32.27 
17.21 

22. 18 
21.25 
18.15 
11.18 
20.11 
25.30 

23. 7 
B. wins. 



Var. 3. 
31.27 
1. 5 
23. 19 A 
16.23 

27. 9 
5.14 

24.19 

15. 24 

28. 19 
11.15 
32.28 
15.24 
28. 19 

3. 8 
26. 23 
14.17 
22.18 

17. 22 
B. wins. 

A. 

23. 18 
14.23 
26. 19 B. 
16.23 
27.18 
10.14 

18. 9 
5.14 

30. 26 
12. 16 
26.23 
14.17 

24. 19 
15.24 
28.12 
17.26 
23. 18 

6. 10 
B. wins. 

B. 

27.18 

16. 19 
32. 27 C 

5. 9 



20.16 
11.20 
18. 11 
10.15 
22. 17 

3. 7 
11. 8 

7.10 

8. 3 

9.14 

3. 8 
14.21 

8. 11 

6. 9 
B. wins. 

C. 
22. 17 D. 
15.31 
24. 8 
5. 9 
30.25 
31.26 
B. wins. 

D. 

26.23 
19.26 
30. 23 
10. 14 



18. 
5. 



9 
14 



23. 19 
6. 10 
32.27 
B. wins. 

Var. 4. 
22. 18 
1. 5 

18. 9 
5. 14 

19. 15 

11. 18 

20. 11 

12. 16 
27.24 



18.27 
24.20 
27.82 
31.27 
32.23 
26.12 
17.22 
11. 8 
14. 18 

8. 4 
18.23 

4. 8 

22. 26 
30.25 
26.30 
25.22 
30. 25 
22.17 
25.21 
17.14 
21. 17 
14. 9 
17.14 
Drawn 

Var. 5 

22.18 
1. 5 

18. 9 
5.14 

26.22 
17.26 
31.22 

14. 17 
22.18 
17.22 

19. 15 
16. 19 

15. 8 
19.28 
18. 14 
28. 32 

8. 3 
7.11 

23. 19 
32.27 

3. 8 



2. 7 

8. 15 
7.10 

14. 7 
6. 9 

B. wins. 

Var. 6. 
25. 22f 

9. 6 E. 
2. 9 

13. 6 
22.18 

6. 2F. 
18. 23 

2. 6 
11. 15 

6. 2 

7. 11 
2. 6 

15. 18 
6.10 

18.22 
10. 14 
22.25 
14.17 
25.29 
17. 14 
29.25 
14.10 
25.22 
10. 14 
23.27 
14.10 
22.17 
31.26 
27. 32 
26.23 
32.28 
23. 19 
28.32 
B. wins. 

E. 
9. 5 
22.18 
31. 26 



il.15 

5. 1 
7.11 

1. 5 
12.16 
13. 9 
16.19 
B. wins. 

F. 
31.26 
11.15 

6. 2 

7.11 

2. 6 
18. 14 
26. 23 
12. 16 
B. wins. 

GAME 6 

11.15 

22. 18 
15.22 

25. 18 
8.11 

29.25 

4. 8 

25.22 

12. 16 
24.20 
10.15 
21.17 

7.10 
17. 13 

8.12 
28.24 
10. 14vai 

23. 19 
16.23 

26. 10 
14.23 

27. 18 
6.15 

13. 6 
1. 10 

31.26 
423 



40 



DRAUGHTS. 



5. 9 

26.23 

9.13 
23.19 
13.17 
22.13 
15.22 
32.28 
10.14 
19.16 
12.19 
24. 8 

3.12 
13. 9 
14.18 
28.24 
18.23 
24.19 
23. 27 
19. 15 
27.32 
15.11 
32.27 

9. 5 
27.23 

5. 1 
22.26 
Drawn. 

Var. 

9.14 
18. 9 

5.14 
23. 18 C. 
14.23 
27. 18 A. 
16.19 
32.28 
10.14 
18. 9 

1. 5 
26.23 
19.26 
30.23 

5. 14 
24.19 
15.24 
424 



28.19 
14.17 
22.18 
17.22 
18.14 

6. 10 
14. 7 

3. 10 
23. 18 

2. 6 
B. wins. 

A. 

26.19 
16.23 
27. 18 
12.16 
32.28 
16.19 
30. 26 B. 

1. 5 
31.27 

5. 9 
20.16 
11.20 
18.11 
10.15 
22.17 

3. 7 
11. 8 

7.10 
B. wins. 

B. 

18.14 
10.26 

30. 7 
B. wins. 

C. 
23.19 
16.23 
27. 9F. 

1. 5 
26. 23 E. 

5. 14 

31. 27 



3. 8 

23.18 
14.23 
27.18 
12.16 
32. 27 D. 
16.19 
18. 14 
19.28 

14. 7 
15.18 
22.15 
11.18 

7. 3 

8.12 
27.24 
28.32 
24.19 

6.10 

3. 8 
32.28 

8.11 
28. 24 
11. 15 L. 
18.23 

15. 6 
2 9 

13. 6 
24.15 
30.25 
15. 10 

6. 1 
10.14 

1. 6 
23.26 
25.21 
26.30 

6. 1 
30.26 

1. 5 
26.22 

5. 1 
22.17 

1. 5 
17.13 

5. 1 
13. 9 



1. 5 


23. 18 


15.18 


9. 6 


30.26 


24.20 


5. 1 


18.15 


18.22 


14.10 


26. 31 


27.21 


1. 5 


B. wins. 


22.26 


6. 1 




19.15 


5. 9 


F. 


12.19 


10.15 


26. 19 


13. 9 


9. 5 


3. 8 


6.22 


15. 18 


31. 26 H. 


15. 6 


21.17 


15. 18 


1.10 


18.22 


22. 15 


24. 6 


17.14 


11.18 


8.12 


1. 6 


32. 28 I. 


Drawn. 


5. 1 


2. 7 




6. 2 


30.25 


H. 


14, 9 


14. 17 G. 


27. 


B. wins 


25.21 


15. 




18.22 


22.15 


D. 


21.14 


11.27 


30.26 


10.17 


32.23 


16.19 


26.23 


8.11 


32.28 


17.21 


30.26 


8.12 


23.18 


14.17 


22.17 


22.26 


26.22 


15.31 


18.14 


17.26 


24. 8 


1. 5 


31.22 


31. 26 


19.15 


10.14 


B. wins 


26.31 


22. 18 




27.23 


1. 5 


E. 


7.11 


18. 9 


32.28 


23. 19 


5.14 


5.14 


11. 18 


B. wins. 


26.23 


19. 15 




3. 8 


18.22 


I. 


23.19 


24.19 


26.22 


15.18 


31.27 


18.25 


22.15 


28.24 


30.21 


11. 18 


Drawn. 


14.18 


31.26 




32. 28 K 


18.22 


G. 


10.15 


26. 17 


7.11 


19. 10 


14.21 


25.21 


6.15 


30.26 


18. 22 


21.17 


21. 25 


26. 17 


8.11 


26.23 


11. 15 


B. wins. 


25.30 


1 20. 16 





EXAMPLES OF GAMES. 



41 



K. 
21.17 

8.11 
27. 23 
18.27 
32 23 
11.15 
20.16 
15.18 
23. 7 

2.27 
17.14 
27.32 
19. 15 
32.27 
B. wins. 

L. 
19.16 
12. 19 
11.15 
Drawn. 

GAME 7. 

22. 18 
11. 15 
18. 11 

8. 15 
21. 17 

4. 8 

23. 19 

11 varl 
7.13 

9. 14 
27.23 

5. 9 
25.22 
14. 17 
29.25 
17.21 
22.17 
11. 16 
25.22 
16.20 
19.16 
20.27 
31.24 



12.19 
23.16 
10. 14 
17.10 

7. 14 
24, 19 
15.24 
28.19 

1. 5 
22.17 
14. 18 
26.23 
18.27 
32.23 

6. 10 
13. 6 

2. 9 
17.13 

9. 14 
Drawn. 

Var. 1. 
15.18 
17.13 

9.14 
26.23 
14.17 
23. 14 
17.21 
27. 23 var 2 
10. 17 
31.26 

5. 9 
25.22 

9.14 
29.25 

8. 11 
24.20 
11.16 
20. 11 

7.16 
32.27 

3. 8 
19.15 
16.19 
23.16 
12.19 



15.10 
6. 15 

13. 9 
15. 18 

22. 15 

14. 18 

15. 10 

8. 12 

9. 5 

2. 6 
10. 7 

6. 9 
27.24 

9.13 
24. 15 
17.22 
26. 17 
13.29 

15. 10 
29.25 

7. 2 
25.22 
Drawn. 

Var. 2. 
31.26 

10. 17 
25. 22 

8. 11 D. 
27.23 

7.10 
29. 25 A. 

11. 15 
32.27 

3. 7 
19.16 

12. 19 

23. 16 
7.11 

16. 7 
2. 11 

27.23 

5. 9 
24.20 

9.14 
28.24 
11. 16 

37 



20.11 

15. 18 

22. 15 
10.28 

11. 7 

6. 10 

7. 2 
28.32 

2. 7 
32.27 

23. 19 
27.31 
25.22 
31.27 

7.11 
27.24 
19.16 
24.27 

16. 12 
27.31 

12. 8 
1. 6 

8. 3 

14. 18 

22. 15 
31.22 
11.16 
10. 19 
16.23 

6. 10 

3. 7 
10. 14 

7.10 
22.26 

23. 19 
26.22 

10. 15 
W. wins. 

A. 

24.20 

11. 15 
19. 16 

12. 19 
23.16 

15. 19 
32.27 



10.14 
16.11B.C 
19.24 
28.19 
21.25 
30.21 
14. 18 
21. 14 
18.25 
29.22 

6. 9 
13. 6 

2.25 
Drawn. 

B. 

27.23 
14.18 
23.24 
19. 23 
26.19 
17.26 
30.23 

6. 9 
13. 6 

2.27 
B. wins. 

C. 

29.25 

3. 8 
27.23 

8.12 
16.11 

5. 9 
23. 16 
12.19 
11. 8 
19.23 
26.19 
17.26 
30.23 
21.30 
19.16 
30.26 
23. 19 
Drawn. 



D. 

5. 9 

22. 18 
8.11 

26.23 
17.22 
18.15 
11. 18 

23. 5 
7.11 

24.20 
3 7 
27. 23 E 

6. 10 
32.27 
11. 16 
20. 11 

7.16 
28.24 
22.26 
29.25 
26.31 
25.22 

2. 6 

22. 18 F 
16.20 
18.14 
10.17 

23. 18 
17.22 
30.26 
22.25 
26.22 
25.30 
22.17 
30.26 
18.14 
26.22 
14. 9 

6. 10 

9. 6 
22.18 

6. 2 
31.26 

2. 7 
10. 14 
17. 10 

425 



a 




DRAUGE7S 






26.23 


21.25 ' 


1. 5 




24. 19 




" - 


23.19 


SS 21 


3.12 


W. wins. 


10. 17 


. 16 


25.30 


11. 15 


M - 






_ 6 


18.14 


_" 24 


7. 11C 


C. 


7. : 


U 25 


-' -, 


" 11 


_ 22 


10. 15 


25.22 


6. 9 


- 


.5 1 


14. 17 


_ 11 


11. 15 


IS 15 


M 15 


3. 7 


. 35 


7.16 


19.16 


10. 7 


■ - 


19.16 


10. 15 


13. 9 


12. 19 


B. win*. 


6.10 


12 


31. -' 


6.13 


_ . 




_ 6 


_ . 


. 7 


23. 


14 


E. 


30. _ 


14 


9 


15.22 


_ _' 


.^ .4 


6. 9 


21. 14 


U B. 


_ 10 


15. 19 


6. 10 


25.21 


10. 17 


: 21 


16.19 


31.-" 


13. 9 


9.14 


24. 19 


1. 6 


31. » 


3. 8 


10.14 


12. 16 


15.24 


_. 14 


5. 9 


V 23 


9. 6 


14. 7 


22 8 


6. 9 


. :2D. 


8 12 


1. 10 


21. 14 


17.21 


23. 1 8 


9.14 


16.11 


1 


20.11 


iv :? 


13. 17 


I _' 


5. 


14.18 


B. wins. 


21.30 


6 


12.16 


_ 16 


1. 5 




16. 12 


15.30 


25. . 


12. 19 


11. 16 




30.16 


_" M 


16 - 


11. 8 


. 11 


GA3XE 8 


2 


31. -' 


' 23 


19. - 


■ -. 


__ 


W. wins. 


6. 1 


1 _ 


_ 19 


5. 9 


11. 15 




_' ! 


30. _ 


17. - 


21.25 


i& n 


A. 


1. 6 


1. 5 


_ 


21 


BL 15 


19.16 


_ Ifl 


._ 


21. 


22. . 


21.17 


12. 19 


6.10 


13. 17 


19. 16 


21. 17 


8 


23. : 


W.wins 


9 


Drawn. 


26.31 


23. 19 


14. 18 




14 




9.13 


ft, 11 


21. 14 


B. 


DfemwB. 


E. 


10.15 


17.13 


18 25 


5.14 




5. 9 


13. 9 


9.14 


30.21 


__ 13 


D. 


a a 


15. 19 


-\ 23 


10. 17 


14. 17 


30.26 


11.16 


24. 15 


6. 9tix.1 


21.14 


13. 9 


13. 17 


_ 11 


31.24 


13. 6 


3.17 


6.13 


.21 


". 16 


9. 14 


- 9 


24. 19 


_' 21 


19.23 


19.15 


:. 16 


24.20 


15. M 


15. U 


21. 5 


9.14 


Drawn, 


15. 24 


28.19 


23.14 


. - 


__ 18 




a. 19 


17.21 


17.22 


_ 22 


1. 5 


F. 


14. 17 


DtswSi 


_ 17 


_ 23 


9 


... 17 


- 22 




13.22 


Di dE 


5. 14 


31. 8 


9.13 


Var. L 


8£ 24 




15. 11 


23. U 


29.25 


15. 


1. 6 


Var. 2. 


16. _ 


16.32 


5. 9 


19. 15 Tar 3 


-' 23 


. -" 


11. 8 


30 23 


32. 88 


U 27 


22. _ 


14.17 a 


- " 


32.27 


9.14 


15. 8 


- 17 


_ 14 


29. - 


-, 20 


31. B 


12.16 


25.29 


17.21 


" 11 


426 













EXAMPLES OF GAMES. 



43 



25.22 


5. 9 


16.20 


6.10 


10. 7 


19. 16 


W. wins. 


9. 14 


12. 19 




7. 2 


23. 16 


F. 


14. 17 


17. 21 


11. 16 


Drawn. 


22. 17 


20. 11 




15. 18 


7.16 


H. 


26.23 


19.15 


25.22 


18. 22 


3. 8 


10.17 


25.18 


25.22 


29.25 


10.14 


2. 7 


11. 16 


17.10 


31.27 


27.23 


6.22 


5. 9 


16. 20 


13. 6 


15.10 


31.27 


1.10 


7.14 


3. 8 


23. 18 


28.24 


23. 18 


22.25 


8.11 


5. 9 


18. 15 


Drawn. 


19.16 


10.19 




12. 19 


24. 15 


G. 


24. 15 


7. 10 


11.16 


8. 12 


15. 6 


25.22 


27.23 


2 9 


18.25 


7. 10 


27.23 


29.22 


15.11 


25.29 


14.17 


20.24 


23. 18 


24.20 


28. 19 


29. 25 


10. 14 


B. wins. 


31.26 


20. 11 




9.13 


7. 16 


SAME 9. 


18. 14 


19.15 


22. 18 


13.17 


3. 8 


11.15 


14.10 


27.24 


18. 11 


25.22 


16. 19 


8.15 


26.23 


23. 16 


21. 17 


22.26 


12.19 


4. 8 


23.19 


24.20 


23.19 


26.23 


14.18 


8.11 


10. 6 


20. 16 


17. 13 


17.22 


18.25 


9. 14 


6. 2 


30.14 


27.23 


22.26 


6. 9 


5. 9 


16. 12 


13. 6 


25.22 


23. 16 


2.18 


14.17 


30.23 


31.27 


29.25 


21.25 


8.12 


11.16 


2. 6 


15. 10 


32.27varl 


25.30 



6. 10 


7.11 


30.26 


24.20 


23.18 


11. 15 A. 


20. 24 


20. 11 


B. wins. 


15.24 




23.19 


Var. 1. 


10.14 


24.20 


11. 8 


15.24 


24.28 


20.11 


8. 4 


7.16 


28.32 


28. 19 


4. 8 


17.21 


32.28 


22. 18 var 2 


8.11 


2. 7 


28. 24 


31.27B.C. 


19. 15 


10.14 


14. 18 


18. 15 


22. 17 


3. 8 


24.19 


26. 22 


17.14 


7.11 


19.17 


22. 18 


26.22 


1. 5 


17.26 


25.22 


31. 15 


14.17 


12. 16 


30.26 


11.20 


21.25 


Drawn. 


27.24 




25.30 


A. 


15. 10 


3. 8 


6. 15 


23. 18 


13. 6 


16.23 


16.20 


26.19 


19.10 


10.15 


20.27 


19.10 


22. 13 


6. 15 


27.31 


13. 6 


26. 22 


1.10 


31.26 


31.26 


22.17 


Drawn. 


26.19 




Drawn. 


B. 




25. 22 


Var. 2. 


7. 11 


32.28 


32. 28 D. 


2. 7 


10. 14 


28.24 


28.24 



16.20 

19. 15 

20. 27 
31.24 
11.16 
15. 10 

6. 15 
13. 6 

1.10 
18.11 
16.20 
Drawn. 

D. 

31.27 
3. 8E 
19. 15 
10. 19 

22. 17 
1. 5 

17.14 
W. wine. 

E. 
10.14 
19. 15 
3. 7 

15. 8 
21.25 
30.21 

16. 19 

23. 16 
14.30 
16.11 
Drawn. 

C. 
18. 15 
3. 8var3 
32.27 
16.20 
25. 22 

7. 11 
22. 18 
10.14 
27.24 
Drawn. 

427 



44 



DRAUGHTS. 



Var. 8. 
16.20 
25. 22 F. 
20. 24 
32. 28G.H 

3. 8 
23. 18 

7.11 
26.23 

1. 5 

22. 17 
11. 16 
31.26 
16.20 
19. 16 . 

10. 19 
18. 15 
24.27 

23. 18 
27.31 
26.22 
31.26 
30.23 
19.26 
16. 11 
26.30 

11. 4 
Drawn 



F. 

31.27 

9. 14 

25.22 

21.25 

30.21 

14. 17 

21.14 

10. 17 

19.16 

12.19 

23. 16 

7.11 

16. 7 

3. 19 

32.28 

17.21 

428 



27.23 
Drawn. 

G. 

22. 18 
3. 8 

26.22 

7.11 
32. 28 
11. 16 
15. 11 

8. 15 

18. 11 
24.27 
31.24 
16.20 
11. 7 
Drawn. 

H. 

23. 18 

3. 8 
32.28 

7.11 
26.23 

1. 5 
22. 17 

11. 16 
31.26 
16.20 

19. 16 

12. 19 
23.16 

10. 19 
26.23 
19.26 
Drawn. 

GAME 10 

22. 18 

11. 15 
18. 11 

8. 15 
21.17 

4. 8 

23. 19 
8.11 



17. 13 

9.14 

27.23 

5. 9 
25.22 
14.17 
29.25 
17.21 

22. 17 F. 
11. 16 C. 
25. 22 
16.20 
19. 16 
20.27 
31.24 
12.19 

23. 16 
10. 14 

9. 14varl 

24.19 

15.24 

28.19 

10.15 

19. 10 

6. 15 
17.10 

7.14 
22. 17 

2. 7 
17. 10 

7.14 

13. 9 

14. 17 A. 
16. 11 
15.18 
26.23 
18.27 
Drawn. 



A. 


B. 


15.19 


8.12 


16.11 


24.20 


19.24 


12.16 


26.22 


28.24 


24.28 


1. 5 


9. 5 


32.28 


1. 6 


16. 19 



5. 1 

6. 9 

1. 6 
9. 13 

W. wins. 

Var. 1. 

7. 11 
16. 7 

2. 11 
26.23 

3. 8 
23.18 
15. 19 B. 
24. 15 
10. 19 
17.14 

1. 5 
14.10 

6.15 
13. 6 
19.23 
28.24 

5. 9 

6. 2 
15. 19 

24. 15 
9. 14 

18. 9 
11.25 

2. 7 
25.29 

7. 10 
29.25 
10.15 

25. 22 
15. 19 
W. wins. 



17.14 
10.26 

30. 7 
15.22 

7. 2 
22.26 
24. 19 
26.31 
19.15 

31. 26 
2. 7 

26.23 
W. wins. 



C. 

9.14 
25.22 

3. 8D. 
23. 18 
14.23 
17.14 
10.17 
19. 3 
11.16 
26. 19 
17.26 
30.23 
16.20 
32.27 
21.25 
31.26 
25.30 
19.15 
30. 25 E. 
23. 19 
25.30 
26.23 
30.25 
15.10 

6. 15 
19.10 

2. 7 
10. 6 

1. 10 
23.19 
W. wins. 



D. 

14.18 

23.14 

1. 5 

14. 9 
5.14 

26.23 
W. wins 

E. 
1. 5 
26.22 
30.26 

15. 11 

8. 15 
23. 19 
26,17 
W. wins. 

F. 

24.20 
15.24 
28.19 

9. 14 K 
22.17 
11.15 
25.22 

15. 24 
22.18 

7.11 
18. 9 
11. 15 

9. 5 

3. 7G.H 
20.16 
12.19 
23. 16 

7.11 

16. 7 
2.11 

26.23 
11.16 
31.26 
24.27 
26.22 
15.19 
23. 18 



EXAMPLES OE GAMES. 



45 



19.23 


23.16 


21.17 


26. 19 


27.24 


GAME 12. 


18. 14 


7.11 


4. 8 


11. 16 


25.29 


22. 18 


Drawn. 


16. 7 


23. 19 


18. 11 


19. 15 


11. 15 




2. 11 


8.11 


16.23 


11.27 


18. 11 


G. 


22. 17 


17.13 


22. 18 


20. 4 


8.15 


2. 7 


15. 19 


9.14 


10.14 


29.25 


25.22 


30.25 


25.22 


27.23 


17.10 


B. wins. 


4. 8 


W. wins. 


10.15 


5. 9 


6.22 




29.25 




31.27 


25.22 


13. 6 


B. 


8. 11 


H. 


19.24 


14. 17 


1.10 


24.20 


23. 18 


24.28 


27. 23 


29.25 


11. 8 


15.24 


9. 13 var 


31.27 


24. 27 


17.21 


23.26 


28.19 


18. 14 


2. 7 1. 


23. 18 


22. 17 


30.23 


10. 14 


10. 17 


30.25 


27.31 


11. 16 


21.25 


17.10 


21. 14 


21. 30 


17.14 


25.22 


23. 19 


6.24 


6. 10 


20.16 


15.19 


7. 11 War. 


10.14 


13. 6 


25.21 


W. wins. 


14. 5 


24.20U.2, 


8. 4 


1.10 


10. 17 




3. 8 


15. 24 ) &3< 


25.30 


B. wins. 


21.14 


I. 


Drawn. 


28. 19 


4. 8 




2. 6 


3. 7 




10.14 


30.25 


C. 


24.19 


30.25 


M. 


17. 10 


8.11 


23.18 


15.24 


21.30 


22.18 


6.24 


22.26 


10. 15 


28.19 


20.16 


14. 17 


13.6 


31.22 


18. 14 


6. 10 A 


12.19 


19. 16 


1. 10 


25. 18 


15. 19 


22.17 


23. 16 


12. 19 


22. 17 C 


B. wins. 


32.28 


13. 22 


30.23 


23. 16 


24.28 




3. 7 


26. 17 


27. 11 


1. 5 


17. 13 


Var. 2. 


22. 18 


11.15 


Drawn. 


25.22 


3. 7 


31.27 


19.23 


32.28 




5. 9 


13. 9 


21.25 


28. 19 


15.24 


K. 


26.23 


16. 19 


30.21 


21.25 


28.19 


11.15 


17.26 


23. 16 


9. 14 


30.21 


1. 6 


32. 28 L. 


31. 22 


12. 19 


B. wins. 


23.30 


30.26 


15.24 


7.11 


9. 5 




19.15 


3. 8 


28. 19 


16. 7 


19.24 


Var. 3. 


30.25 


26.23 


9. 14 


2.11 


5. 1 


32.27 


15. 8 


8.11 


22. 17 M. 


21. 17 


11. 16 


3. 8 


25.22 


23.18 


10. 15 


3. 8 


20.11 


22. 18 B. 


20.11 


11.16 


19. 10 


23.19 


7. 16 


15.22 


22.15 


27.23 


6. 15 


8.12 


1. 5 


19. 15 A. 


8. 3 


16.20 


17.10 


17.14 


16.20 


11. 18 


7.16 


31.27 


7.14 


Drawn. 


5. 9 


23. 5 


3. 8 


6. 9 


25.22 




24.27 


22. 25 


16. 19 


18. 15 


Drawn. 


GAME 11. 


Drawn. 


B. wins. 


14. 9 


9.18 




22. 18 






19.24 


23.14 


L. 


11. 15 


Var. 1. 


A. 


21. 17 


12. 16 


19.16 


18.11 


23.18 


24.20 


Drawn. 


19.12 


12. 19 


1 8.15 


16 23 


22.25 




10. 19 
429 



46 



DRAUGHTS. 



12. 8 
Drawn. 





A. 


11 


16 


27. 


23 


6. 


9 


22. 


18 


1. 


6 


30. 


25 


6. 


10 


25. 


21 


10. 


17 


21. 


14 


7. 


10 


14. 


7 


3. 


10 


32. 


28 


10. 


14 


26. 


22 


14. 


17 


19. 


15 


Drawn. 


Var. 


12. 


16 


18. 


14 C 


10. 


17 


22. 


13 


16. 


20 B. 


21. 


17 


7. 


10 


26. 


23 


9. 


14 


25. 


21 


15. 


18 


30. 


25 


10. 


15 


17. 


10 


18. 


22 


25. 


18 


15. 


22 


23. 


19 


6. 


15 


19. 


10 


22. 


25 


24. 


19 




430 



2. 7 


11.20 


Drawn. 


27. 11 




7.16 


B. 


24.15 


9. 14 


Drawn. 


24.20 




6.10 


E. 


27.24 


22. 17 


16. 19 


14.23 


25.22 


25.22 


14. 18 


9.13 


22.17 


17. 14 


1. 6 


11. 16 


32.27 


20.11 


19.23 


7. 16 


26.19 


14. 10 F. 


18.23 


16.20 


27.18 


31.27 


15.22 


15. 18 


17.14 


B. wins. 


10. 17 




21.14 


F. 


6. 10 


14. 9 


14. 9 


5.14 


5.14 


22.18 


13. 9 


15.22 


14.17 


24.15 


9. 5 


6. 10 


17.21 


15. 6 


5. 1 


1.10 


22.25 


26. 12 


31.26 


22.25 


Drawn. 


28.24 




25.29 


C. 


24.20 


24.20 


29.25 


16. 19 


31.26 


27. 23 D. 


13.17 


9.13 


26.23 


B. wins. 


25.22 




20. 16 


D. 


2. 7 


27.24 


B. wins. 


10. 14 




22. 16 E. 


GAME 13. 


14.23 


22. 18 


31.27 


11. 15 



18. 11 

8. 15 
21.17 

4. 8 
23.19 

8. 11 
17.13 

9.14 
25.21 
14.18 
26.23 
18.22 
30.26 
15. 18 

26. 17 
18.22 
23. 18 
11. 16 

27. 23 A. 
16.20 
32.27 
10. 14 var. 
17.10 

7.14 

18. 9 
5.14 

13. 9 

6.13 
19.15 

1. 6 
24.19 

3. 7 
28.24 
22.25 
29.22 
14.18 
23.14 

6. 10 
15. 6 

2.25 

19. 15 
25.30 
27.23 
20.27 
31.24 
30.26 
23.18 



26.22 
18. 14 
12.16 
15.11 
Drawn. 

A. 

18. 14 
16.23 
27. 18 

10. 15 
18. 11 

7.16 

13. 9 
6. 13 

32.27 
Drawn. 

Var. 

3. 8f 
18. 15 C. 

7.11 
23. 18 D. 
11.16 
27.23 
20.27 
31.24 
16.20 
15.11 

8. 15 
18.11 
20.27 
23. 18 

2. 7 

11. 2 
27.31 

2 9 

5.23 
17. 14 B. 
10. 17 
21. 14 
31.26 

14. 10 
22.25 
29.22 
26.17 
B. wins. 



B. 

13. 9 
31.27 
17.14 
10. 17 
21. 14 
23.26 
19.15 
27.23 
15. 10 
23. 18 
10. 7 
18.15 
B. wini 



C. 

18.14 

8.11 
14. 9 

5.14 

19. 15 
11. 18 
23. 19 
22.26 
31.15 
14. 18 
29.25 
18.23 
27.18 
20.27 
18.14 
27.31 
25.22 
31.27 
22. 18 
27.24 
14. 9 
24.20 
18.14 

20. 16 
15.11 
16.23 
11. 8 
23.19 
B. wins. 



EXAMPLES Of GAMES. 



47 



D. 

31.26 
22.31 
29.25 
11.18 
23. 7 
2.11 
17.14 

6. 9 
13.6 
1.17 

21.14 
31.26 
14.10 
26.30 
25.21 
30.25 

10. 7 
25.22 

7. 3 
11.16 
19. 15. 
16. 19 

3. 7 
B. wins. 

GAME 14. 

22.18 

11. 15 
18.11 

8.15 
21.17 

4. 8 
23. 19 

8.11 
17.13 

9.14 
25.21 
14.18 
26.23 
18.22 
23. 18 var. 
11.16 
18. 11 
16.23 
27.18 

7.16 



24.20 
16. 19 
18.15 
19.23 

15. 11 

10. 14 

11. 8 
22.26 
31. 22 
14. 17 
21.14 

6. 9 
13. 6 
1.26 
8. 4 
Drawn. 

Var. 

21. 17 
5. 9 

23. 18 
10. 14 A. 
17.10 

7.23 
19.10 

6.15 
13. 6 

2. 9 
27.18 

1. 5D. 
24.20 

9.14 
18. 9 

5.14 
32.27 
14. 18 B. 
30.25 

12. 16 C. 
31.26 
22.31 
25.22 
18. 25 
29.22 
31.24 
28.10 

16. 19 

22. 18 



19.23 

10. 6 
23.26 

6. 2 

26.31 

2. 6 

31.27 

6. 10 

27.23 

18. 14 

23. 19 

14. 9 

11.15 

20.16 

19.12 

10.19 

12. 8 

9. 6 

8.11 

6. 2 

11. 8 
19.23 

8.11 
23. 18 
11.16 
Drawn. 



A. 

11.16 
18.11 
16.23 

27.18 

7.16 
18.15 
10.19 
24.15 
16.19 
30.26 

3. 7 
32.27 

1. 5 
27.24 

7.10 
15. 11 
Drawn. 



B. 

14. 17 
27.23 
12. 16 
30.26 
W. wins. 

C. 

15. 19 
27.24 
11.15 
20.16 
19.23 

16. 11 
23.26 
24. 19 
15.24 
28.19 
26.30 
25.21 
18.23 

11. 8 
30.25 

8. 4 
23.26 

4. 8 
26.30 

8.11 
30.26 
19.15 
26.23 
15.10 
25.30 
10. 6 
23. 18 

6. 1 
W. wins. 

D. 

12. 16 
24.20 

1. 6 
32.27 

6.10 
27.23 
10. 14 
29.25 



22.29 
30.26 
15.22 

26. 10 
29.25 
28.^24 

3. 8 
Drawn. 

GAME 15. 

22. 17 
11.15 
25.22 

8.11 
29.25 

9.13 
17.14 
10.17 
21.14 

4. 8 
24. 19 
15.24 
28.19 

11. 16 
22. 18 
16.20 
26.22 

8. 11 var 1 

30.26 
6. 9 

19. 15 
11. 16 var 2 

25.21 
16. 19 var 3 

23.16 

12. 19 
32.28 

1. 6 
15.11 

7.16 
14. 10 

6. 15 
18. 11 

2. 6 
22. 18 
W. wins. 



Var.l. 

6. 9 
25.21 

1. 6 
30.26 
12.16 
19. 12 

8. 11 
22.17 
13.22 
26.17 

9. 13 
23. 19 
13.22 
19. 15 
11.16 
15.10 

6.15 
18.11 
22.25 
11. 8 
25. 29 A 

8. 4 
29.25 

4. 8 
25.22 

8.11 
16.19 
11. 15 
19.23 
27. 18 

7. 10 
15. 6 

2. 9 
Drawn. 

A. 

16.19 

8. 4 
25.29 

4. 8 
29.25 
32.28 
25.22 
27.24 
20.27 
31.15 

431 



22. 18 


i 6.10 


WAAL 

15.24 


[ 19. 16 


28.24 


16.20 


15.10 


11. 8 


28. 19 


10. 14 


20.27 


24.19 


18. 9 


10. 14 


7.11 


16. 7 


32.23 


14.18 


10. 6 


22. 17 


22. 18 


2. 11 


1. 5 


15.10 


9.14 


13. 22 


13.22 


18. 9 


2. 6 


26.23 


6. 1 


26. 10 


18. 9 


5. 14 


11. 16 


10. 7 


14.18 


19.26 


6.13 


32.27 


6. 15 


23.32 


28.24 


31.22 


25. 18 


8.12 


5. 9 


B. wins. 


Drawn. 


16. 19 


" 3. 8 


27.23 


21.17 






32. 28 


18. 14 


11. 15 


9.13 


GAME 17 


Var.2. 


9.14 


10.17 


B. wins. 


17.14 


11. 15 


12. 16 


8. 4 


21.14 




7.11 


22. 17 


15. 8 


5. 9 


11.16 


B. 


14. 10 


8.11 


3.12 


4. X 


14. 9 


27.23 


13.17 


25. 22 


18. 15 


19.23 


2. 7 


10.17 


10. 7 


11.16 


9 18 


27.18 


9. 6 


23. 16 


3. 10 


23 . 18 


23. 14 


14.23 


7.10 


2. 6 


15. 6 


3. 8 var] 


1. 6 


10. 7 . 


Drawn . 


32.27 


17. 22 


18. 11 


15.11 


2. 11 




17.21 


6. 10 


8. 15 


6. 9 


8.15 


A. 


27.23 


22.26 


24.19 


11. 8 


23. 26 


12. 16 


6. 9 


10.14 


15.24 


9.18 


15. 18 


17.14 


28.24 


26. 31 


27.11 


22. 15 


26.30 


10. 17 


4. 8 


29.25 


7. 16 


7.11 


22. 17 


21.14 


16.12 


31.26 


22. 18 


15.10 


9. 13 


16. 19 


9.14 


14. 17 


9.14 


11.15 


17. 14 


24. 20 


18. 9 


26.31 


18. 9 


8. 4 


"W. wins. 


6. 10 


5.14 


25.21 


5.14 


5. 9 




29.25 


W. wins. 


31.27 


28.24 


4. 8 


GATV1E 16. 


10. 17 




17. 14 


4. 8 


9. 14 


11. 15 


25.21 


C. 


27.24 


24.19 


8. 11 


22. 17 


1. 6 


4. 8 


19. 15 


16.23 


14.17 


8. "> 


21.14 


23. 19 


24. 19 


26. 19 


11.18 


25. ; 


6. 10 


9. 14 


15.10 


8. 11 


17.22 


9.13 


30. 25 B. 


18. 9 


19.26 


31.26 


26. 17 


23.18 


10. 17 


5.14 


18. 15 


2. 7 var 2 


13.29 


6. 9 A. 


25.21 


26.23 


11.18 


26.23 


18.22 


27.23 


19.23 


2. 6 


Drawn. 


11. 15 


16. 19 


9. 14 C. 


26.10 


22. 18 




32. 28 


W. ■wins. 


18. 9 


17.26 


15.22 


D. 


15.24 




5. 14 


31.22 


31.26 


10. 15 


28. 19 


Var. 3. 


30.25 


7.33 


22.31 


19. 10 


7. 11 


7.10 


1. 6 


27. 18 


30.25 


7.14 


30.26 


14. 7 


24. 19 


3. 7 


13.22 


32.27 


11.15 


3.19 


15.24 


28.24 


25. 2 


31.26 


19.16 


18.15 


28.19 


7. 10 


31. 27 D. 


23.19 


12. 19 


1. 6 


11. 15 


24. 19 


23.18 


11.16 


Drawn. 


15.11 


32.28 


4. 8 


27.20 


19. 15 




432 













EXAMPLES OF GAMES. 



49 



Var, L 

7. 11 

17. 14 
10.17 
21. 14 
16.20 
29.25 

9. 13 
24. 19 
15.24 
28.19 

3. 8 
19.15 

6. 9 
14. 10 
12.16 
26.23 
20.24 
27.20 

9. 14 

18. 9 
11.27 
32.23 

5. 14 
20.11 

8. 15 
31.26 

4. 8 

10. 7 
2.11 

23.18 
14.23 
26. 10 
Drawn. 

Var. 2. 

11. 15 
32.28 
15.24 
28. 19 
14.18 
17.14 
10. 17 
21.14 
18. 23 
19.15 
23.27 



15.11 
27.32 

11. 8 
32.27 

8. 4 

12. 16 

4. 8 
16.20 

8. 11 
20.24 

14. 10 

6. 15 
11.18 

24. 28 
26.23 

28. 32 

29. 25 
27.31 
18. 22 
32. 27 
23.19 
Drawn. 

GAME 18. 
11. 15 

22. 17 
8 11 

25. 22 
11.16 

23. 18 

15. 19 

24. 15 
10. 19 
17. 13 var, 

9. 14 
18. 9 

5. 14 
22. 17 

7. 10 
27.24 
19.23 

26. 19 
16.23 
31.26 
14.18 
26. 19 
18.22 



17.14 

10. 17 
21.14 

3. 7 
14. 9 

4. 8 
9. 5 
8.11 

32.27 

6. 10 

27.23 

11. 15 

13. 9 
7.11 

24.20 
15.24 
28. 19 
11.15 
30.25 
15.24 
25.18 
1. 6 

5. 1 
6.13 

Drawn. 

Var. 
18. 15 

4. 8 
27.24 
16.20 
32.27 

7.10 
17. 13 
10. 14 
22. 17 

14. 18 
17. 14 
18.22 
26. 17 

9. 18 
30.26 
18.22 
13. 9 

6.13 
I."). 10 

12. 16 



A 



24. 15 

2. 6 
26. 23 

8. 12 

23. 18 
16. 19 
18. 14 

6. 9 
10. 7 

9. 18 
27.24 
20.27 
31.24 

3. 10 

15. 6 
1.10 

24. 6 
18.23 
17.14 
Drawn. 

A. 

29.25 
12. 16 
17.14 
8.12 
26.23 
19.26 
30. 26 

16. 19 
23.16 
12. 19 
31.26 
18.23 
B. wins. 

GAME 19 

22. 17 
11.15 
25.22 

9. 13 
23. 18 var 1 
6. 9 var 2 
18.11 

8.15 
27.23 

9.14 
38 



30.25 

5. 9 
24. 19 
15. 24 
28 19 

7. 11 
22. 18 
13.22 
26. 17 

3. 8 
32.28 
11.15 
18. 11 

8.24 
28. 19 

4. 8 
17. 13 

2. 6 
25.22 

8. 11 
31.26 
11. 16 

22. 17 

14. 18 

23. 7 
Drawn. 

Var. 1. 
17.14 
10.17 
21. 14 

6. 10 
29.25 
10. 17 
25.21 

1. 6 
21. 14 

6. 10 
22.17 
13.22 
26. 17 

15. 18 
17.13 
10.17 
23. 14 
17.22 
24.19 



8. 11 
27. 24 

2. 6 
24.20 

6. 10 
14. 9 

5. 14 

13. 19 

14. 17 

9. 6 
17. 21 

6. 1 
22.25 

1. 5 
25.29 

5. 9 
29.25 
31.26 
11. 15 

9. 6 
15.24 

6. 15 

3. 8 
28.19 

7.11 
26.22 
25.18 
15.22 

11. 16 
20. 11 

8.24 
22.26 

12. 16 
26.31 
16.20 
Drawn. 

Var. 2 
5. 9 

15. 11 
8. 15 

27.23 
15. 19 
24. 15 
10. 19 
23. 16 
12. 19 
433 



50 

29.25 

7. 10 
17.14 

9.18 
22. 15 

4. 8 
Drawn. 

GAME 20. 

11.15 

22.17 

8.11 
17.13 

4. 8 

23.19 

15. 18varl 

24.20 

11.15var2 

28.24 

8.11 
26.23 

9.14 
31.26 

6. 9 

13.6 

2. 9 
26.22 

9.13 
32. 28* 

1. 6 
21. 17 
14.21 
23.14 
10.26 
19. 1 
13. 17 
30.23 



• White oi 


to win th:\»— 


20 . 


16 


11 . 


20 


22 


17 


13 


22 


21 


17 


14 


21 


B 


14 


10 


17 


26 


2 


1 


6 


2 


9 


6 


. 14 


19 


15 


8 


. 8 


24 


19 


434 





DRAUGHTS. 






21.30 


15.19 


29.22 


23.14 


28.24 


1. 6 


25.22 


10. 14 


6. 9 


1. 6 


3. 8 


1. 5 


19.10 


30.26 


26.22 


6. 2 


26.23 


14. 18 


9.18 


8. 11 


7. 10 


19.26 


22.15 


26.22 


32. 28 


23. 19 


30.23 


11.18 


18. 25 


9. 13 


10. 14 


11.15 


24.19 


29.22 


20.16 


Drawn. 


20. 16 


7.14 


5. 9 


Drawn. 




21.25 


19.15 


27.23 




Var. 1. 


16.11 


1. 6 


9. 13 


G. 


9.14 


14.21 


28.24 


23, 18 E. 


9.13 


27.23 


22. 17 


3. 7 


10. 14 


28.24 


15. 18B.C. 


25.30 


24.20 


18. 9 


1. 6 


32.27 


11. 7 


5. 9 


15.18 


26.22 


11.15 


30. 26 


31.27 


22. 15 


5. 9 


26. 22 


7. 3 


7.10 


13.22 


22.15 


7.11 


26. 19 


21.17 


Drawn. 


11. 18 


21.17 


B. wins. 


14.21 




25.22 


14.21 




26.23 


E. 


18.25 


23. 7 


B. 


10.26 


31.26 


29.22 


3.10 


5. 9 


30. 5 


15. 18 


8.11 


27.23 


32.27 


6. 9 


23. 14 


22. 18 


5. 9 


1. 5 


5. 1 


11. 16 


13.17 


31.26 


26.22 


9.13 


19. 15 F. 


32.28 


9.14 


14.18 


1. 6 


10. 19 


17.22 


24.20 


23. 14 


8.11 


24.15 


Drawn. 


15.24 


9.18 


6. 10 


7.11 




28.19 


22. 17 


21.25 


Drawn. 


H. 


11.15 


11. 16 


27.23 




"\ 16 


19.16 


27. 23 


25.30 


F. 


26 


12.19 


18.27 


23. 18 


26.23 


. 6 


23.16 


17. 14 


30.25 


16.20 


1.10 


8.11 


16.23 


18. 14 


23. 18 


25.22 


16. 7 


31.26 


25.22 


20.27 


10. 15 I 


2.11 


10.17 


14. 9 


18.15 


22. 17 


26. 23 A. 


26. 1 


22. 17 


27.31 


15. 18 


11. 16 


17.22 


10. 6 


15. 6 


17.10 


20. 11 


Drawn. 


Drawn. 


Drawn. 


7. 14 


15.18 








30.26 


22. 15 


C. 


D. 


Var. 2 


8. 12 


10.26 


6. 9 


9. 13 


10. 14 


26.22 


30.23 


13. 6 


32.27 


26. 23 


18.25 


21.30 


2. 9 


1. 6 


6. 10 K. 


29.22 


Drawn. 


25.22 


22.17 


13. 6 


9.13 




14. 18 D. 


13. 22 


2. 9 


22. 18 


A. 


23. 14 


26.17 


31. 26 H. 


14.23 


22.17 


9.25 


14.18 


11. 15 G. 


27. 18 



EXAMPLE8 OP GAMES. 



51 



3. 7 

28.24 

7.10 

24.19 

10.14 

18. 9 
5.14 

32.27 
13.17 
27.23 
17.22 
21.17 
14.21 
23.18 
11.16 
20. 11 
22.26 
Drawn. 

I. 

9.13 
22.18 
14.23 
27.18 

5. 9 
30.26 
10.14 
26.23 

7.10 
29.25 
10.15 
25.22 
Drawn. 

K. 
11.15 

19. 10 
6.15 

13. 6 

1. 10 L. 
28.24 

8.11 
30.26 

2. 6 
26 22 

3. 8 
22. 17 



5. 9 


15.18 


24.19 


23. 14 


15.24 


9.18 


25.22 


27.23 


18.25 


18.27 


29.22 


32.23 


24.28 


7. 11 D. 


22.18 


29.25 


12.16 


5. 9 A. 


W. wins. 


25.22 




11. 15 


L. 


20. 16 


2. 9 


9. 14 


28.24 


16. 11 


8. 11 


12.16 


30.26 


19.12 


9. 13 


15.18 


26.22 


22.15 


3. 8 


10.28 


23.19 


17.10 


7. 10 


6. 15 


27.23 


8.11 


18.27 


28.32 


32.23 


8. 4 


5. 9 


32.28 


31.27 


4. 8 


W. wins. 


2. 7 




31.26 


GAME 21. 


28.24 


11.15 


26.22 


22.17 


24.27 


8.11 


23.18 


17.13 


15. 19 


4. 8 


22.17 


23.19 


27.23 


15. 18 


18.14 


24.20 


23.18 


11.15 


8. 4 


28. 24 van 


18. 9 


8.11 


13. 6 


26.23 


1. 10 


18. 22 B. 


17.13 


25. 18 


7.11 


15.22 


4. 8 


30.26 


10.15 


11. 15 


13. 9 


26.17 


19.24 



9. 6 

24. 28 

6. 2 
28.32 

2. 6 
32.28 
21.17 
28.32 
17.14 
32.28 
14.10 
28.24 

6. 2 
Drawn. 

A. 
11.15 
17.14 
10. 17 
19. 10 
6. 15 
21. 14 
15. 18 
31.27 

1. 6 
24.19 

2. 7 
25.21 
18.22 
23.18 
22.26 
27.23 
W. wins. 

B. 

3. 8 
23.14 

9.18 
30.26 

6. 9C. 
13. 6 

2. 9 
26.22 

9.14 
27.23 
18.27 
32.23 



5. 9 
31.27 

1. 5 
22.17 

9. 13 
25. 22 

5. 9 
29.25 
15. 18 

22. 6 
13.29 

6. 1 
7.10 
1. 5 
9. 13 
5. 9 

13. 17 
9.18 
17.22 
18.25 
29.22 

23. 18 
22.15 
27.23 
10.14 
19. 10 
11.15 
10. 7 
15. 18 
21.17 
18.27 
17. 10 
27.32 

24. 19 
8. 11 

10. 6 
32.28 

7. 3 
28.24 

3. 8 
24.15 
W. wins. 

C. 
5. 9 
26.22 
9.14 



22. 17 

6. 9 
13. 6 

2. 9 
17.13 

1. 6 
27.23 
18.27 
32.23 
15.18 
31.27 
11. 15 
25.22 
18.25 
29.22 

7.11 
22.17 
Drawn. 

D. 

10.14 

17.10 

7.14 

13. 9 
6.13 

19.15 
1. 6 

23.19 
6. 9 

15. 10 

14. 17 
21.14 

9.18 
19.15 
18.22 
15.11 
13.17 
11. 8 
17.21 

8. 4 
21.25 

4. 8 
25.30 

8.11 
30.26 
29.25 
22.29 

43* 



52 



DRAUGHTS. 



31.22 
29.25 
22.17 
25.22 
17.13 

22. 18 

10. 6 
2. 9 

13. 6 
Drawn. 

Var. 

27. 24 F. 
8.11 

25. 22 E. 
18.25 
29.22 
9. 14 
22.17 

11. 16 
20. 11 

7.23 
26.19 

2. 7 
31.26 

7.11 
26.23 
15.18 
24.20 
18.27 
32.23 
11. 15 
30.26 
15.24 

28. 19 

3. 8 
20.16 

5. 9 
26.22 
10.15 
17.10 
15.24 

23. 19 
6.15 

19.10 
Drawn. 

436 



F. 

26.22 
15.24 
28.19 

9. 14 
22.15 

7.11 
30.26 
11. 18 
26.22 

2. 7 
22. 15 

7.11 
31.26 
11.18 
26.22 

3. 7 

22. 15 
7.11 

25.22 
11.25 
29.22 

8.11 
27.23 
11.15 
32.28 
15.24 
28.19 
10. 15 
19. 10 

6.15 
Drawn. 

E. 

26.22 
9.14 

31.27 
6. 9 

13. 6 
2. 9 

27.23 
18.27 
32.23 

14. 18 

23. 14 
10.26 
30.23 



7. 10 
23. 18 
15.22 
25. 18 

3. 8 
B. wins. 

GAME 22. 

11. 15 

22. 17 
8.11 

17. 1 > 

4. 8 

23. 19 
15. 18 
24.20 
11.15 
28.24 

8.11 
26.23 

9. 14 B. 
31.26{varl 
14. 17jvar2 

21. 14 
10. 17 
23. 14 

6. 10 
25.22 
17.21 

22. 17 
15. 18 
26.22 
18.25 
29.22 
11.15 

13. 9 
7.11 

14. 7 
3. 10 
9. 6 
2. 9 

17.13 

9. 14 
22. 17 

1. 6 
32.28 

5. 9 



27.23 
15. 18 
19. 15 
18.27 
15. 8 
14.18 
8. 3 
W. wins. 

Var. 1. 

5. 9 
21.17 

14. 21 
23. 5 

15. 18 
26.23 
18.22 
25.18 
10.15 

19. 10 
6.22 

23. 18 
7.10 
32.28 
10.15 
27.23 
22.26 
18.14 

15. 18 
23. 19 
26.31 
14. 9 
W. wins. 

Var. 2. 
11.16 

20. 11 
7. 16 

21. 17 
14.21 
23. 7 

2. 11 
19. 10 

6. 15 
25. 22 A. 

16. 19 
32.28 



5. 9 
13. 6 

1. 10 
29.25 
10.14 
24.20 
Drawn. 

A. 

24.20 

16. 19 

27.23 

3. 7 

23. 16 
12. 19 
25. 22 

7. 10 

22. 17 
19.24 
29. 25 

1. 6 
25.22 

5. 9 
26.23 

24. 27 
20.16 
11.20 

23. 18 
27.31 
18.11 

9. 14 
11. 7 
14.18 
22.15 
10.19 
7. 2 
6.10 

2. 7 

10. 15 
7.11 

15.18 

11. 15 
18.23 
15.24 
20.27 
17.14 
31.26 



14. 9 

26.22 

9. 6 
27. 31 

6. 2 
22.18 

2. 6 
18.15 
13. 9 
23.26 
30.23 
31.26 
Drawn . 

B. 

18. 22 
25. 18 
15.22 
30.26 
11.15 
26.17 
15.18 
23.14 

9.18 
29.25 

7. 11 D 
17. 14 

10. 17 
21. 14 

6. 9 
13. 6 

1.17 
25.21 
17.22 

19. 15 

3. 8 

15. 10 

11. 15 
21. 17 
22.26 
31.22 
18.25 
17. 13 
25.30 
10. 6 

2. 9 
13. 6 



EXAMPLES OF GAMES. 



53 



30. 25 C. 
27.23 
25.. 22 

23. 18 

8. 11 

24. 19 
15.24 
32.28 
22.15 
28.10 

5. 9 

6. 2 
9.13 

10. 7 
11.15 

2. 6 
15. 18 

6.10 
18.22 
10.14 
22.25 

7. 2 
25.29 

2. 7 
29.25 

7. 10 
25.21 
10.15 
13. 17 
15. 19 
17.22 
19. 23 
W. wins. 

C. 

30.26 

6. 2 

5. 9 

2. 6 

9. 13 
6.10 

15.18 
10.14 
18. 22 
32.28 
Drawn. 



D. 

18.23 
27.18 
10. 15 

18. 11 
7.23 

24. 19 
6. 10 

25. 22 E. 
23.26 

22. 18 
26.30 
18.15 
30.25 
15. 6 

1. 10 
32. 27 

25. 22 
27.23 

2. 7 
31.27 

7.11 
27.24 
22.26 

23. 18 
26.22 
18.14 

3. 7 

19. 15 
Drawn. 

•p 

20. 16 
3. 8 

17. 14 
10.17 
21.14 
2. 6 
31.27 
23.26 
25.21 

26. 31 
27.23 
31.27 
23. 18 
27.23 
14. 9 



23. 14 

9. 2 

14. 10 

13. 9 

5. 14 

2. 
10. 7 

6. 10 

8. 11 

10. 3 
11.20 

3. 7 

14. 18 
Drawn. 

GAME 23. 

11.15 

22.17 

8.11 

17.13 

4. 8 
23. 19 

15. 18 
24.20 

11. 15 
28.24 

8.11 
26.23 

9.14 
31.26 

6. 9 
13. 6 

2. 9 
26.22 

9. 13 B. 
20. 16f 
11,20 
22.17 
13.22 
21.17 
14.21 
23.14 
10. 17 
25. 2 

1. 6 A. 

2. 9 
5.14 

38 



19.15 
3. 8 
24.19 
W. wins. 

A. 

17.22 

19. 15 
21.25 
30.21 
22. 26 

15. 10 
26.31 
29.25 
12. 16 
25. 22 

16. 19 
24. 15 
31.24 
15.11 
24.19 
11. 7 
19.15 

2. 6 
15.11 

7. 2 
20.24 
22. 18 
11. 16 
21. 17 
W. wins. 

B. 
1. 6 

30. 26 CD. 

9.13 
32.28 

6. 9 
B. wins. 

C. 

32.28 
9. 13 E. 

20. 16 
11.20 
Drawn. 



E. 


17.14 


3. 8 


10. 17 


30.26 


21. 14 


9. 13 


6. 10 


19. 16 


30.25 


12. 19 


10. 17 


23. 16 


25.21 


8. 12 F. 


22. 26 


24.19 


21. 14 


15.31 


26.30 


22. 8 


19. 15 


12. 16 


30.26 


8. 3 


15. 8 


W. wins. 


26.22 




32.28 


F. 


22.15 


13. 17 


24. 19 


22.13 


15.24 


8.12 


28. 19 


25.22 


13. 17 H 


12.19 


8. 4 


22. 17 


17.22 


5. 9 


4. 8 


26.22 


22.26 


18.25 


19.15 


29.22 


26.30 


14.18 


15.10 


27.23 


Drawn. 


19. 26 




17. 14 


G. 


18.25 


9. 13 


14. 5 


25.22 


15.18 


18.25 


21.17 


29.22 


11.15 


14.18 


5. 1 


23. 14 


Drawn. 


6. 9 




22. 18 


D. 


15.22 


22. 17 


32.28 


18. 22 G. 


9.18 


25.18 


17.14 


15.22 


10. 17 


23. 18 


21.14 


14.23 


13. 17 


27. 18 


19.15 


9.13 


17.21 




437 



54 



DRAUGHTS 



15. 8 

22.25 
24.19 
25.29 
19.15 
29.25 
15. 10 
25.22 

10. 6 
22. 17 

6. 2 
17.10 

2.11 
Drawn. 

H. 

7.10 

14. 7 
3.10 
8. 3 

10.14 

3. 7 

14.17 

7. 10 
17.21 
10.14 
13.17 
19. 15 
17.22 
14.17 
22.26 

15. 10 
Drawn. 

GAME 24. 

11. 15 
22.17 
15.18 
23.14 

9.18 

17. 14 var. 

10.17 

21.14 

8.11 

24 20 

6. 9 

26.23 

438 



3. 8 
23.19 
18.22 
25. 18 
11. 16 
20.11 

8.22 
30.25 

9. 18 
27.23 
18.27 
25. 18 

5. 9 
32.23 

4. 8 
29.25 
12.16 
19. 3 

2. 6 

3. 10 
6.29 

Drawn. 

Var. 
17.13 
8.11 
26.23 
10.14 
24.20 
11.15 
28.24 

4. 8 
30.26 

8.11 
26.22 

3. 8 
32.28 

7.10 
24. 19 
15.24 
28.19 
11. 15 A 
27.24 
18.27 
13. 9 

6.13 
22. 17 



13.22 
25. 4 
27.32 

4. 8 
32.27 
29.25 

5. 9 
25.22 

9. 13 
8.11 

1. 5 
11. 8 

2. 7 
8. 3 
7.11 

3. 7 
27.23 
Drawn. 

A. 

2. 7 
22.15 
11.1-8 
31.26 

8.11 
19. 16 
12.19 
23. 16 
14. 17 B. 
21.14 
10.17 

16. 12 

11. 15 

12. 8 

17. 21 
25.22 
18.25 
Drawn. 

B. 

10.15 
27.24 
6.10 
16. 12 
14.17 
21. 14 
10.17 



25.21 
18.22 
21.14 
22.31 
W. wins. 

GAME 25. 

22. 18 
11.16 
25.22 
10.14 
29. 25 
16.20 
24. 19 

8.11 
19. 15 

4. 8 

22. 17 A. 
*7.10var. 
25.22 
10. 19 
17.10 

6. 15 

23. 7 
2.11 

21.17 

1. 6 
17.13 

3. 7 
28.24 
12. 16 
26.23 

8.12 
53. 19 
16.23 
31.26 

7.10 
26.19 
11.16 
18.11 
16.23 
27. 18 
W. wins. 

A. 

28.24 
7.10 



24.19 

3. 7 
19. 16 
10.19 
32.28 

7.10 
16. 7 

2. 11 
23. 7 
14.32 

7. 3 
32.27 
31.24 
20.27 
22.18 
27.31 
26.22 
10.14 
18.15 
14. 18 
B. wins. 

Var. 

9.13 
17.10 

7.14 
18. 9 

5.14 
26.22 
11.18 
22.15 

2. 7 
30.26 

7. 10 
23.19 

3. 7B. 
19.16 
12. 19 
28.24 
19.28 
25.22 
10. 19 
22. 17 
13.22 
26. 3 

8. 12 
27.24 



20.27 
31. 15 

6.10 
15. 6 

1.10 
W. win§ 

B. 

1. 5 
19.16 
12.19 
28.24 
19.28 
25.22 
10.19 
22.17 
13.22 
26. 1 
19.24 

1. 6 
8.11 

21.17 
11.15 
Drawn. 

GAME 26 

22.18 
11.16 
25.22 
10.14 
29.25 
16.20 
24.19 

8.11 
19. 15 

4. 8 
22. 17 
12.16 
17.10 

7.14 
26.22 

2. 7 
28.24 
16.19 
23.16 
14.23 
27.18 



EXAMPLES OF GAMES. 



55 



20.27 


21.25 


15. 11 


25.22 


26.23 


23.16 


31.24 


2. 7 


31.27 


23. 19 


24.27 


6. 9 


11.27 


25.30 


10. 15 


14. 9 


22. 18 


18.15 


32.23 


7.11 


9. 14 


19.15 


1. 5 


9.18 


7.10var. 


30.26 


15. 10 


Drawn. 


18. 9 


21.14 


15. 11C 


18.14 


5. 9 




5.14 


7.11 


8.15 


26.23 


10. 17 


C. 


B. wins. 


15. 8 


18.11 


14.10 


27.23 


30.26 




3.19 


10.15 


22. 18 


26.19 


10. 19 


F. 


27.23 


21. 17D.E. 


B. wins. 


24. 8 


23. 16 


23. 19 


18.27 


3. 7 




16. 19 


8. 12 


27. 31 


32. 16 


11. 2 


Var. 


8.11 


B. wins. 


19.15 


20.24 


9.13 


8. 12 


19.23 




31.26 


14.10 


2. 9 


23. 19 


11.16 


D. 


B. wins. 


24.27 


5.21 


7.10 


23.27 


23. 18 




23. 19 


23. 18 


21. 17 


16.19 


15.19 


GAME 27. 


27.31 


15. 19 


9. 13 B. 


27.32 


22.17 


11. 15 


19. 15 


18.14 


25.21 


19.23 


3. 7 


22.17 


31.27 


19.23 


3. 7 


32. 28 


11. 2 


9. 13 


15.11 


22.18 


30.26 


Drawn. 


9. 13 


17. 14 


27.24 


13. 17 A. 


12. 16 




2. 9 


10.17 


16.12 


18.15 


19. 12 


B. 


5.23 


21. 14 


24. 19 


23.26 


10. 19 


12. 16 


17.14 


8.11 


Drawn. 


30.23 


12. 8 


19. 12 


23.27 


24.19 




21.30 


7.11 


10. 19 


14.10 


15.24 


GAME 28 


14. 10 


8. 3 


17. 14 


27. 31 


28.19 


11.15 


30.26 


11. 16 


19.23 


10. 7 


11.16 


22. 17 


23. 19 


3. 7 


14.10 


31.27 


25.21 


9.13 


26.23 


16.20 


6. 15 


25.22 


6. 9 


17.14 


19. 16 


7.11 


18.11 


27.23 


29. 25 


10.17 


23. 18 


19.24 


23.27 


21.17 


9.18 


21.14 


16.11 


11.16 


11.. 8 


19.24 


23. 14 


8.11 


Drawn. 


24.27 


27.31 


17.14 


16.23 


24.19 




17.14 


8. 4 


24.27 


26.19 


15.24 


A. 


6. 9 


31.27 


14.10 


4. 8 


28. 19 


23. 26f 


14.10 


4. 8 


27.31 


25. 22 


11.16 


30.23 


27.31 


27.23 


Drawn. 


8. 11 


25.21 


21. 30 


10. 7 


8.11 




22. 18 


6. 9var. 


18. 15 


20.24 


9. 13 


E. 


11.16 


29.25 


30.26 


7. 3 


11.16 


30.26 


27.23 


9.18 


23. 18 


24. 28 


5. 9 


3. 7 


16.20 


23.14 


26.22 


3. 7 


16.20 


11. 2 


31.27 


16.23 


14. 10 


28.32 


9. 14 


9. 13 


13.17 


26.19 


13.17 


7. 10 


22.18 


2. 9 


30.26 


4. 8 


10. 7 


32.27 


14.17 


5.14 


1. 6 


25.22 


17.21 


18. 15 


18. 14 


! 23. 19 


19.16 


8.11 


7. 2 


27.24 


17.21 

■ 


| ]5. 24 


12. 19 


1 22. 18 
439 



56 



DRAUGHTS. 



11.16 
27.23 

16. 20 
31.27 
13.17 
30.26 

1. 6 
18. 15*A 
20.24 
27.20 

7. 10 
14. 7 

2.27 
21.14 

6. 9 
32. 23 
B. wins. 

A. 
14. 9 

6. 13 
21.14 
13.17 
14. 9 

5.14 
18. 9 
17.21 
26.22 
21.25 
22.17 
25.30 

17. 13 
30.26 

9. 6 

2. 9 
13. 6 

7.11 

6. 2 
11. 16 

2. 6 
26.31 
B. wins 

Var. 
4. 8 
26.22 
8. 11 B. 
440 



22. 18 


31.26 


16.20 


11. 18 


30.26 


23. 14 


6. 9 


16.23 


29.25 


26.19 


1. 6 


1. 6 


19.15 


25. 22 


11.16 


8.11 


25. 22 


22.18 


7. 10 E. 


6. 9 


14. 7 


19. 15 


3. 19 


12. 16 


18. 15 


15. 8 


2. 7 


3.12 


15. 11 


30.26 


7. 10 


2. 7 


11. 7 


27.24 


9.14 


16.20 


7. 3 


32.27 


6. 9 


7. 1L 


3. 8 


14. 10 


10.15 


9. 14 


22. 18 


18. 9 


15.22 


5.14 


26. 10 


26.23 


19.26 


14.18 


31.22 


23. 14 


16. 19 


11.15 


32.28 


Drawn. 


9. 14 




10. 6 


C. 


5. 9 


22. 18 


6. 1 


13.17 


19.23 


18.15 


27.18 


9.18 


14.23 


21.14 


1. 5 


7.11 


9.14 


29. 25 D. 


5. 9 


1. 6 


W. wins. 


25.22 




18.25 


B. 


30.21 


6. 9 


11.15 


29. 25 C. 


14. 10 


9. 18 


6.24 


22. 15 


27. 4 


7.11 


18. 27 



31.24 
12. 16 
21.17 

5. 9 
Drawn. 

D. 

14.10 

18.22 
30.25 
11.18 
23. 14 
16.23 
27.18 

8. 11 
32.27 

2. 6 
18.15 
11. 18 
27.23 

6. 15 
B. wins. 

E. 

16. 19 
23.16 
12.19 
15.11var2 

7. 16 
14. 10 

6. 15 
18.11 

2. 6 
22. 18 F. 
19.24 
Drawn. 

F. 

32.28 
20.24 
27.20 
6.10 
11. 8G, 

3. 12 
20.11 
19. 23 
2G. 19 



10.14 
Drawn. 

G. 

11. 7 

10.15 

20.11 

3.10 

31. 27 H, 
10.15 

B. wins. 

H. 

11. 7 
19.23 
26. 19 
15.24 
28. 19 
10.14 
Drawn. 

Var. 2 
27.23 

7.10 
23. 16 I. 
10. 19 
14.10 

6.15 
18.11 

2. 6 

32. 28 K. 
6. 10 
7.11 

10. 14 
16.11 

3.10 

11. 8 
19.23 
26.19 
10. 15 ■ 
Drawn. 

I. 

14. 7 

3.10 

23.16 

10. 19 



18.15 

2. 7 
15.11 

7.10 
11. 7 
19.23 
26.19 
10.14 
19. 15 
14.17 
Drawn. 

K. 

16. 12 
6.10 
11. 8 
19.23 
26. 19 
10.14 
22. 18 
14.23 
Dra \\ n 

GAME 2a 

11.16 
22.18 
16.19 
23.16 
12.19 
24.15 
10. 19 
25.22 

9. 14 
18. 9 

5.14 
22. 17 

7. 10 
27.24 

2. 7 
24.15 
10. 19 
17.10 

7.14 
32.27 

3. 7 
27.24 

7. 10 to 



EXAMPLES OF GAMES. 



57 



24.15 


1 7.10 


31.24 


C. 


22.18 


15.1ft 


10.19 


23.27 


20.27 


11. 16 


6. 9 


23. 18 


31.27 


10.14 


2. 6 


10. 7 


11. 7 


19.23 


8. 11 


27.32 


27. 31 


8.12 


13.17 


18. 15 


29.25 


14.18 


6. 10 


7. 3 


18.15 


23.26 


6.10 


32.27 


31.27 


5? 9 


14.18 


31.22 


27.23 


22.17 


10. 15 


3. 8 


23. 14 


16.19 


11. 16 


13.22 


27.23 


9.14 


9.18 


15.10 


25.22 


18.25 


30.25 


8.11 


24. 19 


19.24 


10. 15 


27.31 


23.26 


16.20 


17.22 


27.23 


22. 17 A. 


25.22 


25. 21 


31.26 


Drawn. 


24.27 


15.18 


31.27 


26.22 


W. wins. 




23. 18 


Drawn. 


30.26 


21.17 




GAME 31. 


27.31 




27. 23 


22.26 


GAME 30. 


11.16 


18.14 


A. 


19.15 


15. 18 


11. 16 


22. 18 


8.11 


21. 17f 


23.30 


13.22 


22.18 


10.14 


10. 7 


14.21 


15. 19 


18.25 


8.11 


25.22 


Drawn. 


23. 18 


W. wins. 


Drawn. 


25.22 


16.20 




16.20 






4. 8 


29.25 


A. 


18.11 


Var. 


B. 


29.25 


12.16 


3. 8 


20.24 


7. 11 


18.23 


10. 14 


18.15 


11. 7 


11. 7 


24. 15 


22. 17 


24.19 


8. 12 


2.11 


24.27 


11.18 


14. 18 


7.10 


15. 11 


24. 19 


7. 3 


28.24 


17.14 


27.24 


7.10 


15.24 


27.31 


8. 11 


1. 5 


16.20 


22.18 


28 19 


3. 7 


29.25 


19.15 


19. 16 


10. 15 


6.10 


31.27 


4. 8 


9.13 


20.27 


25.22 


19.15 


7.11 


24. 19 


14. 10 


16. 7 


6. 10 A. 


10.19 


1. 5 


6. 9 


23. 27 C. 


2.11 


24. 19 


22. 17 


11.16 


26.22 


31.24 


31.24 


15. 24 


19.24 


27.23 


1. 5B. 


18.23 


12. 16 


28. 19 


17.10 


28.24 


22. 15 


10. 7 


24.19 


9. 13 B. 


24.28 


19.28 


11. 18 


15.18 


8. 12 


18. 9 


10. 7 


26. 19 


19. 16 


7. 3 


32.27 


5. 14 


11. 15 


28.32 


18.22 


8.12 


16.20 


19. 15 


18.11 


19.15 


25. 18 


3. 8 


21.17 


10. 19 


8.15 


32.27 


14.23 


23.27 


14.21 


22. 17 


7. 3 


16. 19 


21. 17 


8.11 


19. 16 


13.22 


15.18 


5. 9 


8. 12 


27.32 


12.19 


26.10 


23.14 


15.11 


16. 11 


24.20 


23. 7 


19.26 


9.18 


9. 13 


9. 13 


18.23 


10.14 


30.23 


3. 7 


11. 7 


17.14 


11. 15 


26.23 


3. 8C. 


W. win* 


4. 8 


12. 16 


32.28 


3. 10 


11. 7 




7. 3 


11. 7 


25.22 


28.24 


2. 11 


B. 


8. 12 


16.20 


Drawn. 


10.15 


10. 7 


3. 8 


3. 7 


7. 2 




18. 11 


11. 15 


11. 7 


27.32 


23.27 




9. 13 


7. 3 


2.11 
441 



58 




DRAUGHTS. 






19. 15 


26.22 


14.18 


14.23 


18.27 


23. 14 


10. 19 


11. 16 


30.25 


19. 10 


32.23 


16.20 


22. 17 


15. 10 


11. 16 A. 


7.14 


1. 6 


25.22 


19. 24 


9.13 


13. 9 


26. 19 


23. 18 


8.11 


17.10 


18. 9 


16.23 


14. 18 E.F. 


17.22 


27.23 


24.28 


5. 14 


17. 13 


22. 15 


26.17 


20.27 


10. 7 


19. 15 


W« wins. 


11.18 


11.16 


23. 18 


11.15 


16. 19 




21. 17 


20.11 


13. 17 


18. 11 


23. ]6 


A. 


8. 11 B. 


7.23 


22.13 


8. 15 


12. 19 


2. 6 


24. 20 C. 


25.22 


15.22 


7. 3 


22. 18 


31.26 


9.13 


2. 7 


32.23 


15.18 


14.23 


11. 16 


17. 14 


17. 13 


22. 26 


23. 14 


27. 18 


26.23 


2, 7 


23.27 


23.18 


9. 18 


2. 6 


16.20 


28.24 


18.15 


26. 31 


3. 7 


25.22 


23.14 


4. 8 


Drawn. 


14.10 


W. wins. 


19.24 


7.11 


19.15 




31.27 




18. 14 


14. 7 


7.10 


C. 


30.26 


C. 


24.27 


3. 10 


15. 6 


17.14 


Drawn. 


16.19 


32.23 


27.23 


1. 17 


2. 7 




23. 16 


8. 11 


20. 27 


25.22 


19. 15 


F. 


12.19 


15. 8 


28.24 


17.26 


4. 8 


11. 16 


32.28 


4.11 


27.31 


30.14 


24. 19 D. 


19. 15 


2. 6 


23.18 


23. 18 


3. 7 


9. 13 


16. 19 


10. 7 


6. 15 


5. 9 


24. 19 


31.26 


15. 10 H 


3. 10 


14. 10 


32.27 


13.17 


11. 16 


19.23 


11. 8 


20.24 


31.26 


19. 16 


Drawn. 


27. 18 


4.11 


18. 14 


17. 14 


12. 19 




14.23 


27.24 


11.16 


26.17 


27.23 


D. 


22. 18 


20.27 


30.26 


14. 7 


19.26 


24. 20 


8.11 


31. 8 


16.20 


15.29 


31.13 


1. 6 


25.22 


Drawn. 


22. 17 


21. 5 


8. 12 


30.26 


4. 8 




13.32 


11.16 


13. 9 


9. 13 


22. 17 Q. 


GAME 32. 


26. 17 


27.23 


7.10 


26. 22 


9.13 


22. 18 


Drawn. 


16.20 


14. 7 


Drawn. 


17.14 


10. 15 




7. 2 


5. 14 




2. 6 


25. 22 


Var. 1. 


20.27 


7. 2 


E. 


10. 7 


6. 10 


22. 17 


2. 9 


Drawn. 


9.13 


3. 17 


29.25varl 


15.22 


29.25 




19.15 


21.14 


10. 14 


17. 13 


19. 15 


B. 


11. 18 


13.17 


24. 19var2 


9.14 


25. 22 


9. 13 


22. 15 


24.20 


15.24 


26. 17 


9. 14 


17. 14 


12. 16 


17.22 


28. 19 


11. 15 


12. 16 


13. 17 


15. 10 


28.24 


11.16 


29.25 


15. 10 


31.26 


14. 18 


23. 26 


18.15 


8.11 


B. wins. 


8.11 


31.26 


30.23 


7.11 


25. 22 




24. 20 


2. 6 


22. 25 


22. 18 


4. 8 


Var. 2 


3. 7 


26.23 


24. 19 


16. 20 


23.19 


23. 19 


27.23 


6. 15 


25.30 


442 













EXAMPLES OP GAMES. 



59 



31.26 

6. 9 
14.10 

9.14 
Drawn. 

G. 
24. 19 
11.16 
19.15 

2. 6 
31.27 

9.13 
15. 11 

8.15 
18. 11 

6.15 
27.18 
15. 19 
18. 14 
19.23 
21.17 
16.19 
11. 7 

3.10 
14. 7 
Drawn. 

H. 

22. 18 
14.23 
27.18 
1. 6 
21. 17 I. 

3. 7 
17.14 

9. 13 
24.20 
13. 17 
31.26 
17.21 
32.27 

6. 9 
27.24 

7.11 
25.22 

9.13 



15.10 
11. 15 

18. 11 

8. 15 
20.16 

4. 8 
Drawn. 

I. 

25.22 
9.14 

18. 9 
5.14 

22. 17 

14.18 

17. 14 

3. 7 
21.17 
18.22 
17. 13 

7. 10 

14. 7 
2.18 

24. 15 
8.11 

15. 8 

4. 11 
28.24 

11. 15 
31.27 

6.10 
13. 9 
10.14 

9. 6 

12. 16 
Drawn. 

GAME 38 

22.18 
10.15 

25. 22 
6. 10 

29.25 
10. 14 
24. 19 
15.24 



28.19 
11. 16 

18. 15 var 1 

7. 11 
22. 18 
10. 20 
26. 22 

11. 16var2 
31.26 

2. 6 
32.28 

3. 7 
28. 24 var 3 

7. 10 var 4 
15.11 

8. 15 

18. 11 

10. 15 

19. 10 
6. 15 

22. 17 
14. 18 A. 
23.14 

9.18 
26. 23 
16.19 
23.14 
19.28 
25.22 
28.32 
27.23 
32.27 

23. 18 
27.24 

11. 7 
Drawn. 

A. 

16.19 
23.16 
12.28 
17.10 
15.19 
27.:3 
19.24 
Drawn. 



Var. 1. 
17. 24 
16.20 
31. 27 

8. 11 B. 

19. 15 C. 
4. 8 

2. 17 

7. 10 

15. 6 

1. 10 
23. 19 
14.23 
27. 18 

20. 27 
32.23 
11. 16 

17. 13 

2. 6 
21.17 
16.20 
25.21 
20.24 
17.14 
10. 17 
21.14 
24.27 
19. 15 
27.31 
26.22 

3. 7 
14.10 

7.14 

15.10 

6.15 

18. 4 
14.18 
13. 6 
18.27 
Drawn. 

B. 

7.10 
32.28 

1. 6 
19.15 
10. 19 



24. 15 
12.16 
22. 17 

6. 10 

15. C 

16. 19 

17. 10 

2. 7 
23.16 

7.32 

6. 1 
32.27 
25.22 
Drawn. 

C. 

18. 15 
11.18 

22. 15 
4. 8 

26.22 

14. 18 

23. 14 
9. 18 

21. 17 

1. 6 D 
30.26 

7. 10 
17.14 
10.17 
22.13 

3. 7 
26.22 

7.10 

22. 17 

2. 7 
25.21 
18.22 
17. 14 
10. 17 
21.14 

7. 11 

15. 10 
6. 15 

19. 10 
12.16 
10. 7 



8. 12 

7. 3 
Drawn. 

D. 

2. 6 
30. 2j 

7.10 
17.14 

10. 17 
22. 13 

12. 16 
19.12 

6. 9 

13. 6 
1.22 

26.21 
20. 24 
Drawn. 

Var. 2. 

2. 6 EL 
27.24 
20.27 
31.24 

6.10 

15. 6 
1.10 

32.28 

9. 13 

18. 9 
5.14 

30.26 
11.15 

19. 16 
12. 19 
23.16 

8. 12 

16. 11 
12. 16 
17.14 
24.20 
16.19 

11. 7 
19.23 
Drawn. 

443 



!0 




DRAUGHTS. 






E. 


7.10 


18. 15 


1. 19 


10. 7 


14.18 


2. 7 


Drawn. 


11.18 


21. 17 


Drawn. 


22.15 


15. 10 




17.13 


19.23 




9.14 


W. wins. 


F. 


8.11 


17.14 


A. 


21.17 




6. 10 


13. 6 


23.27 


32.28 


14.21 


Var. 3. 


17. 13 


Drawn. 


25.21 


9. 13 B. 


25.22 


22. 17 


1. 6 




Drawn. 


18. 9 


5. 9 


6. 10 


18.15 


GAME 34. 




5.14 


22. 18 


15. 6 


11.18 


22. 18 


Var. 


22. 18 


9. 14 


1.10 


26. 22 


10. 15 


31.26 


6. 9 


18. 9 


19. 15 


14.17 


25.22 


1. 6 


26.22 


6.13 


10. 19 


22. 15 


6. 10 


22. 17 A. 


2. 6 


15. 6 


17. 3 


9. 14 


29.25 


6. 10 


28.24 


2. 9 


20.24 


15. 11 G. 


10.14 


15. 6 


8.11 


W. wins 


27.11 


14.18 


24. 19 


20.24 


15. 8 




8.31 


11. 2 


15.24 


17.10 


4.11 


D. 


23. 16 


17.22 


28.19 


24.31 


18.15 


7.11 


Drawn. 


23. 7 


11. 16 


26. 22 


11.18 


22. 17 F 




22.29 


18. 15 


9.13 


22. 15 


6. 10 


Var. 4 


Drawn. 


7.11 


6. 1 


Drawn. 


15. 6 


8. 11 ILL 




22. 18 


2. 6 




11. 15 E. 


15. 8 


G. 


16.20 


32.28 


B. 


18. 11 


4. 11 


13. 9 


26.22 


6.24 


3. 7 


8. 15 


22.17 


6. 13 


11. 16 


28.19 


22. 17 C. 


19. 10 


7. 10 F. 


15. 6 


15. lOvar. 


31.27 


6. 10 


9. 13 


26.22 


14.18 


20.24 


19. 15 


15. 6 


25.22 


9.13 


21. 14 


27. 11 


8.15 


7.11 


2. 9 


18. 2 


5. 9 


8.24 


15. 8 


17. 10 ' 


10. 7 


1. 6 


14. 5 


18. 15 


4.11 


11. 15 


14.18 


2. 9 


7.11 


4. 8 


1. 6 


18. 11 


23.14 


5.14 


Drawn. 


32.28 


3. 8 


8.31 


9.25 


19.15 




2. 6 


6.10 


26.22 


Drawn. 


11.18 


H. 


28.19 


16.20 


9. 13 




22. 6 


6.10 


8. 11 


30.26 


6. 1 


E. 


13.29 


15. 6 


15. 8 


20.24 


31.27 


9. 13 


6. 2 


1.10 


6.24 


21.17 


23.18 


17.14 


29.22 


21.17 


23. 19 


24.28 


27.23 


2. 9 


2. 6 


14.21 


24. 28 


25.21 


18.15 


25.22 


25.22 


18. 15 


8. 4 


28.32 


4. 8 


11. 15 


30.25 


W. wins. 


28.32 


17.14 


B. wins. 


18.11 


22.29 




4. 8 


27.31 




8.15 


6. 10 


I. 


32.28 


21.17 


C. 


10. 7 


14.17 


7.11 


8.11 


32.27 


28.24 


15. 18 


21.14 


22.17 


28.24 


10. 15 


7. 10 D. 


22. 15 


29. 25 


6. 10 


19. 15 


27.24 


15.11 


13.17 


10. 7 


15. 6 


14.17 


14.10 


8. 15 


21.14 


25.22 


1.10 


22. 6 


24.27 


18.11 


9.18 


444 













EXAMPLES OF GAMES. 



61 



23.14 


19.10 


6. 15 


11.18 


9. 14 


GAME 87 


16. 32 


4. 8 


19. 3 


20. 4 


18. 9 


11.15 


24. 19 


2. 7 


11. 15 


17.21 


5. 14 


22. 17 


W. wins. 


8.11 


18. 11 


4. 8 


24. 15 


15.19 




6. 1 


8. 15 


5. 9 


11. 18 


24. 15 


F. 


14. 17 


3. 8 


•28. 24 


22. 15 


10. 19 


21. 17 


10. 6 


4. 11 


9. 13 


7. 10 


23. 16 


14.21 


11. 15 


17.14 


27.23 


32.27 


12. 19 


22. 17 


7. 10 


13. 17 


18. 27 


10. 19 


25.22 


9. 13 H. 


16. 19 


22.13 


32.23 


27.23 


7.10 


26.22 


23. 16 


15. 18 


12. 16 


8. 12 


27.24 


6. 9K. 


12.28 


14. 10 


8. 12 


23.16 


10.15 


17.14 


10.19 


11. 15 


16.20 


12. 19 


22. 18 


13. 17 a. 


W. wins. 


23. 14 


26.22 


31.27 


15. 22 


22. 6 




16.19 


20.27 


3. 8 


24. 15 


2. 9 


H. 


25.22 


31.24 


27.24 


*3. 7 A. 


25. 22 


6.10 


19.24 


7.11 


2. 7 


30.25 


9. 13 


15. 6 


27.23 


23. 18 


Drawn. 


9.13 


15. 10 


9. 14 I. 


28.32 


3. 7 




25.18 


11. 15 


18. 9 


23. 18 


18. 14 


A. 


13.22 


18. 11 


5.14 


15. 19 


11. 15 


21.17 


26.17 


8. 15 


17.10 


22. 17 


14. 9 


9. 14 


7. 10 


10. 7 


2. 9 


19.23 


7. 10 


17. 10 


31.26 


5. 9 


19.15 


Drawn. 


12. 8 


7.23 


10. 19 


14. 5 


11.18 




10.14 


27.18 


32.27 


13. 17 


23. 5 


GAME 35. 


8. 11 


11.16 


2. 7 


19. 10 


8.11 


22.18 


14. 18 


18. 15 


17.14 


17.26 


Drawn. 


11.16 


24. 20 


6. 9 


7.11 


23.18 




25.22 


18.25 


22. 17 


27.24 


26. 31 


I. 


8.11 


11. 18 


1. 6 


11.15 


7. 3 


9.13 


29.25 


25.29 


26.22 


18.11 


16. 19 


26.22 


4. 8 


9. 5 


3. 7 


8.15 


24.15 


2. 9 


18.14 


W. wins. 


22.18 


14.10 


W. wins. 


17.14 


10. 17 




7. 10 


6. 9 




11. 15 


21. 14 


GAME 86. 


17. 13 


10. 7 


G. 


19.10 


9.18 


11.16 


16.20 


9.14 


2. 6 


8.11 


23. 14 


22.18 


25.22 


W. win* 


14.10 


10. 7 


6. 10 


8.11 


9.14 




9.14 


11. 15 


22. 18 


25.22 


18. 9 


A. 


18. 2 


18. 11 


10.17 


4. 8 


5.14 


9.13 


11.18 


9.18 


25.21 


29.25 


22.18 


26.23 


22. 15 


23.14 


1. 6 


16.19 


14.23 


8.11 


5. 9 


W. wins. 


21.14 


24. 15 


31.27 


15. 8 


10. 6 




6.10 


10.19 


8.12 


4.11 


9. 14 


K. 


24.20 


23. 16 


Drawn. 


28.24 


15.11 


2. 7 


10.17 


12. 19 




3. 7 


8.15 


15.10 


18.15 

3 


27. 24 A. 




24.19 
445 



62 



DRAUGHTS. 



6.10 

17.14 
10.17 
21.14 

1. 6 
30.25 

6.10 
25.18 
10.17 
19.15 
11. 16 
15.11 

7.10 
Drawn. 

GAME 38. 

22.18 
11.16 
18.14 
10.17 
21.14 

9. 18 
23.14 

8.11 

25.22 

6 lOvarl 

29. 25 vara 

10. 17 

22. 13 
4. 8 

26.23 

2. 6 
23.18 
16.20 

24. 19 
11.16 
27.23 

8.11 
31.27 

7. 10 
18.15 
11.18 

23. 7 
3.10 

25. 22 A. 
16.23 
27.18 

446 



5. 9 
32, 27 
12.16 
27.23 

10. 14 
18.15 

14. 17 
23. 18 
17.26 
30.23 

1. 5 
15.11 

6. 10 

13. 6 
10.15 
Drawn. 

A. 

25.21 
16.23 
27.18 
12.16 
30.26 
16. 19 
32.27 

5. 9 
18.15 

9.14 

15. 11 

14. 18 

11. 7 
Drawn. 

Var. 1. 
11.15 
24.19 

15. 24 
27.11 

7.16 
22.18 

4. 8B. 
29.25 

8. 11 
28.24 
16.20 
31.27 
11.16 



26.23 

2. 7 

25,21 

6. 9 
24 19 

1. 6 <* 
21.17 

9. 13 
19.15 
13.22 
14. 10 

7.14 
18. 2 
22.26 
23.19 
16.23 
27. 18 
26.31 

2. 6 
12. 16 
15.11 
16.19 
18. 14 
19.23 

6.10 
31.26 

11. 7 
20.24 

7. 2 
24.27 

2. 7 
27.31 

7.11* 
31.27 
11.15 

3. 8 
15.18 

&12 
10. 6 
12.16 
14. 10 
W. wins. 

B. 

16.20 
26.23 

12. 16 



32.27 

4. 8 
28.24 

8.12 
29.25 

2. 7 
25. 21 C. 
16. 19 
24. 15 

7. 10 
14. 7 

3.26 
30. 23 

6.10 
21.17 
12.16 
31.26 

1. 6 
26.22 

5. 9 
17.13 
10.14 
18.15 
14.17 
22.18 
17.22 
18. 14 

9. 18 
23. 14 
16.19 
Drawn. 

C. 
25.19 

6.10 
25.21 
10.17 
21.14 

7.10 
14. 7 

3.10 
31.26 
10. 14 



18. 
5. 



9 
14 



26.22 
1. 5 



30.25 

5. 9 
25.21 

9. 13 
Drawn. 

Var. 2. 

22. 17 
4 8 

29.25 
2. 6 D 
24.20 
16.19 
27.24 
11.15 
25.22 

6. 9 
22.18 
15.22 
24. 6 

1.10 
17.13 

9.18 
26. 17 
18.22 
32.27 

8.11 
27.24 
11.15 
31.27 

7.11 
27.23 
22.26 
23.18 
15.22 
30.23 
22.26 

23. 19 
11. 15 
17.14 
10. 17 
19. 10 
26.31 
10. 7 
Drawn. 



D. 

16.20 

24. 19 

11. 15 F 

28.24 

8.11 
25.22 
11. 16 
26.23 

7.11 
14. 7 

3.10 
23.18 
16.23 

18. 14 
2. 7 

27.18 
20.27 
31.24 

12. 16 E 
24.20 

1. 6 
30.25 

6. 9 
25.21 
16.19 
32.27 

19. 23 
27.24 
23.27 
20.16 
11.20 
18. 2 

9.25 
24.19 
Drawn 

E. 

1. 6 

30.25 

6. 9 

25. 21 , 
12.16 
32.28 
16.20 
24.19 
15.24 



EXAMPLES OF GAMES. 



63 



28.19 
20.24 
19.15 

10. 19 
17.13 
11.16 
13. 5 
Drawn. 

F. 

11. 16 

25.22 
16.23 
26. 19 
8. 11 G. 
19.16 
12.19 
27.24 
20.27 

31. 8 
3.12 

28.24 
10.15 

32. 28 

12. 16 
24.20 
16. 19 
30.25 

1. 6 
25.21 

6. 10 
20. 16 
19.23 
16.12 
23.27 
12. 8 
27.31 

8. 3 
30.26 
28.24 
26.23 
24.20 
23. 18 
Drawn. 

G. 
10.15 



19.10 

2. 6 
17.13 

6.15 

13. 9 
8. 11 

30.26 
11. 16 

27. 23 
16. 19 
23. 16 
12.19 
32.27 

7. 10 

14. 7 
3.10 

Drawn. 

GAME 39. 

22. 18 
10. 14 
24.19 
11. 16varl 
27.24 
8. Ilvar2 
25.22 
16.20 
31.27 
11.16 
19. 15 A 
16.19 

23. 16 
12.19 
15.11 
14.23 

24. 15 
7. 16 

26.12 
4. 8 

28. 24 
9.14 

24.19 
2. 7 
30. 26 
14.18 
26. 23 
18.25 



29.22 

7. 10 

23.18 

5. 9 
27.24 
20.27 
32.23 
W. wins. 

A. 

29.25 
7.10 
19. 15 
10.19 
24. 15 
16. 19 
23.16 
12.19 
27.23 
19.24 
24.19 
20.24 
15.10 

6. 15 
18. 11 
24.27 
19.15 
27.31 
23.18 
14.23 

26. 19 

9. 14 B. 
22. 17 
14.18 
15.10 
18.23 
17.13 
23.26 
30.23 
31.27 
21. 17 

27. 18 
17.14 
18. 9 
13. 6 

2. 9 
11. 7 



9.14 

25.22 

5. 9 

7. 2 
9. 13 

2. 6 
14.17 
22. 18 
17.22 

6. 9 
22.26 

9.14 
26.31 
18.15 
31.26 
Drawn. 

B. 

1. 6 
19.16 

3. 7 
21.17 

7.10 
16.12 
10.19 
11. 8 

4.11 
17.14 

9. 18 
22. 8 
19.23 

8. 3 
•6. 10 

3. 8 
10.14 

8.11 
14.17 
25.21 
17.22 
21. 17 
31.27 
11. 15 
22.26 
15.18 
W. wins. 



Var. 1. 

6. 10 
25.22 
11.15 

18. 11 
8.24 

28.19 

4. 8 
27.24 

8.11 
24.20 
11.15 

19. 16 

12. 19 
23.16 
14.18 
29.25 

1. 6 

16. 11 

7.16 

20. 11 
18. 23 
26.19 
15.24 
22. 17 
10. 15 
25.22 
24.28 
30.26 
15.19 
17. 13 C. 

9.14 

22.17 

6.10 

13. 9 
10. 15 
17.10 

5. 14 
26.22 
14.18 
22. 17 
19.23 
17.13 
23.26 
31.22 
18.25 
10. 6 



2. 9 

3. 6 

25.30 

6. 1 

30.26 

1. 6 
26.23 
21. 17 
Drawn. 

C. 

31.27 
6.10 
27.23 
19.24 
Drawn. 

Var. 2 
16.20 
31.27 

8. 11 
19. 16 
12.19 
24. 8 

4.11 
28.24 

6. 10 
24. 19 

9. 13 

18. 9 
5.14 

25.22 
11.16 

19. 16 
15. 19 
32.28 

2. 6 
22. 18D.E. 

14.17 
21.14 
10. 17 
18. 15 G. 
17.22 
26. 17 
19.26 
30.23 
13.22 
447 



A 




DRAUGHTS. 






15. 11 


10. 15 


19. 24 


16. 19 


24.15 


W. wini 


7. 10 


19.10 


28.19 


17. 10 


9. 14 




11. 7 


6. 15 


3. 8 


2. 6 


17. 10 


E. 


10. 14 


27. 24 F. 


12. 3 


23. 16 


18. 23 


6.10 


7. 2 


20.27 


17. 21 


12. 19 


27. 18 


15. 6 


6 9 


16. 11 


B. wins. 


21.17 


8. 11 


1.10 


16. 11 


7. 16 




7.21 


15. 8 


22.18 


1. 6 


23. 18 


GAME 40. 


27.23 


6.29 


10.14 


23. 19 


14.23 


22.18 


20.27 


8. 3 


18. 15 


22. 26 


26. 10 


10.14 


23. 7 


W. wins. 


7.11 


11. 7 


27.31 


24. 19 


3. 19 




16. 7 


3. 10 


22. 18 


11.16 


32. 16 


C. 


2. 18 


2. 7 


31.27 


27.24 


6.10 


2. 18 


19.16 


9. 13 


18. 15 


16.20 


16. 12 


22.15 


12.19 


27. 23 


27. 23 


31.27 


W. wins. 


3. 7 


24. 15 


14. 18 


15. 11 


8.11 




25.22 


18. 23 G 


7. 14 


23. 18 


25.22 


Var. 


9. 13 


27. 18 


18.27 


11. 7 


4. 8 


16.19 


30.26 


14.23 


19. 15 


16. 19 


29.25 


23.16 


5. 9 


15. 10 


26.30 


7. 2 


11. 16 


14.23 


26.23 


8. 11 


14. 9 


19.23 


19.15 


26.19 


7. 10 


10. 6 


27.31 


2. 7 


7. llvar. 


7. Hd.e.f. 


15.11 


11. 15 


9. 2 


1. 6 


24. 19 A. 


16. 7 


8.15 


6. 2 


13. 17 


B. wins. 


9.13 


3. IOC. 


23.18 


9.13 


Drawn. 




18. 9 


22. 17 


W. wins. 


2. 6 




F. 


5. 14 


9. 13 B. 




3. 7 


D. 


16. 12 


22. 18* 


17. 14 


D. 


W. wins 


16. 12 


7.10 


1. 5 


10. 17 


9.13 




19.24 


21. 17 


18. 9 


21. 14 


22. 18 


G. 


28.19 


14.21 


5. 14 


6. 9 


6. 9 


8.11 


3. 8 


23.18 


26.22 


19. 16 


25.22 


15. 8 


12. 3 


15. 19 


11.18 


12.19 


9. 14 


3.12 


14.17 


27.23 


22. 15 . 


15. 10 


18. 9 


30.26 


21.14 


19.24 


3. 7 


9. 18 


5. 14 


12. 16 


10.17 


18.15 


28.24 


24.15 


15. 11 


28.24 


3. 10 


10. 19 


7.10 


2. 6 


8. 15 


9. 13 


6.3! 


23. 16 


30 26 


10. 7 


19. 10 


26.22 


23.19 


24.27 


14 17 


"W. wins. 


12. 19 


5. 9 


17.21 


26.23 


21. 7 




24. 15 


22. 15 


19.15 


27.31 


2.18 


B. 


14. 18 


16. 19 


20.24 


23. 19 


23.14 


2. 7 


30.25 


25.22 


B. wins. 


31.26 


16.30 


17. 13 


7. 14 


19.28 




30.23 


14. 9 


7.11 


15.11 


15. 10 


E. 


B. wins. 


B. wins. 


21. 17 


o. 


W. wini, 


29.25 






11. 18 


22. 15 




19.24 


G. 


A. 


19.15 


7. 16 


F. 


28.19 


16.12 


22. 17f 


10. 19 


15.11 


9.14 


448 













EXAMPLE* OF GAMES. 



6i) 



L5. 10 


22.18 


29. 22 


8.11 


17. 14 


15.10 


6.15 


10.14 


19.' 15 


28.24 


10.17 


23. 7 


19.10 


24.19 


11.18 


W. wins. 


22. 6 


3.10 


12.19 


11.16 


23.14 




1.10 


12.16 


24. 15 


27.24 


2. 7 


C. 


18. 15 


B. wins. 


14. 18 H. 


16.20 


21.17 


11.18 


10. 14 




22.17 


31.27 


Drawn. 


24.15 


15. 10 


B. 


7.14 


8 11 




9.13 


Drawn. 


27.23 


17.10 


25.22 


A. 


28.24 




30.26 


2. 7 


4. 8 


22. 17f 


8. 12 


Var. 


23. 19 


20.26 


29.25 


16.19 


15.11 


9.13 


2. 7 


7.14 


11.16 


17. 10 


6. 9 


18. 9 


3. 17 


26.22 


19. 15 


12.16 


14.10 


5.11 


13.29 


3. 7 


7.11 


10. 7 


9. 14 


22. 18 var 2 


15.10 


15. 10 


24. 19 A. 


3. 10 


10. 7 


6. 9 11 


26.23 


7. 11 


9.13 


18. 14 


13. 17 


26. 22 U 


19. 15 


22.15 


18. 9 


9. 18 B. 


W. wins. 


11. 16 Q. 


23. 19 


11.18 


5. 14 


23. 7 




18. 15 N. 


B. wins 


10. 7 


28.24 


11.18 


GAME 42. 


7.10 




5. 9 


11.18 


24.15 


22.18 


15. 6 


C. 


7. 3 


22.15 


2.11 


10. 14 


1.10 


25.22 


8.12 


6. 10 


21.17 


24. 19 


30.26 


2. 7 


27.23 


15. 6 


6. 9 


11. 16 


3. 7 


19.15 


18. 27 


1.10 


17.14 


27.24 


19. 15 A. 


10. 19 


32.23 


26.22 


9.13 


8.11 


10.19 


24.15 


1. 5 


3. 7 


14.10 


31.27 


24.15 


16. 19 


25.22 


22.18 


13.17 


16.20 


2. 6 


B. wins. 


VV. wins. 


14. 17 


10. 7 


25.22 


28.24 






21.14 


1. 6 


4. 8 


Drawn. 


D. 


H. 


10. 17 


7. 3 


29.25 




26.22 


7.11 


18. 14 


8.12 


11. 16 var 


A. 


2. 6 


30.26 


8.11 


15. 8 


19.15 


22.18 


18. 15 


11.18 


14. 9 


W. wins. 


7.11 


7.11 


11. 18 


22. 15 


7. 14 




22.17 


19. 15 CD. 


22. 15 


5. 9 


9. 5 


B. 


16. 19 


10.19 


13. 17 


26.23 


10. 14 


10.17 


17.10 


24. 15 


B. wins. 


2. 6 


25.21 


21.14 


2. 7 


16. 19 




28.24 


17.22 


9.18C. 


23.16 


23. 7 


Var. 2. 


9.13 


5. 1 


23.14 


12. 19 


14.30 


19. 15 


25.22 


22.25 


11.18 


25.22 


7. 3 


11.18 


8.12 


1. 5 


24. 15 


7.23 


9. 14 


22.15 


22.18 


25.29 


2. 7 


27.18 


25. 22 B. 


7.10 


6. 9 


5. 9 


26.23 


20.27 


30.26 


25. 22 E, 


23.19 


13.17 


6.10 


32. 7 


22.18 


10.19 


W. wins. 


9.18 


15. 6 


3.19 


14.23 


23.16 




17. 22 


1.17 


21. 17 


27.18 


12.19 


GAME 41 


18.25 


23.14 

3 


6. 10 

9* 


26.23 


24.15 
449 



66 




DRAUGHTS. 






14. 18 


1. 5 


6.10 


8.15 


£4. 19 


7. 10 va/ 


30.25 


25. 22 H. 


B. wins. 


18.11 


2. 7 


15. 6 


2. 7 


11. 15 




B. wins. 


19.16 


1.10 


15. 10 F.J. 


14. 10 


L. 




12. 19 


23. 19 E. 


7. 14 


6 9 


27.23 


Q. 


23. 16 


14.23 


22. 15 


10 7 


18. 27 


1. 5 


B. wins. 


27. 18 


3. 7 


9. 14 


23 


19. 15 




20. 24 


28. 24 


7. 3 


7. 10 


2. 6 


Y. 


18. 14 A 


14. 17 


14. IS 


22. IS M. 


24. 19 


19. 16 


9. 18 


21. 14 


3. 7 


10.19 


7. 10 


12. 19 


19. 15 


6. 10 


18. 25 


23.16 


28. 24 


24. 15 


10.19 


15. 6 


26. 22 


8. 12 


12. 16 


7. 10 


26. 23 


1. 17 


19. 23 


B. wins. 


19. 12 


23.19 


18.27 


25. 21 


Drawn. 




10.28 


14.23 


32. 7 


17.22 




M. 


In 15 


27. IS 


3.10 


26. 17 


G. 


23. 19 


11. 18 


9. 14 


28. 19 


13. 22 


26. 22 


1. 5 


22. 15 


B. wins. 


8.11 


24. 19 


"6." 10 


22. 18 


Drawn. 




25. 22 B. 


22. 26 


21. 17 


5. 9 




Y. 


11. 15 


19. 15 


B. wins. 


25.22 


R. 


30.25 


19. 16 


Drawn. 




3. 7 


1. 5 


11. 16 


10. 14 




H. 


B. wins. 


18. 9 


18.15 


16. 11 


E. 


26. 22 




5.14 


7.10 


14. 18 


23.18 


19.23 


X. 


25.22 


22. 18 


30. 25 


14.23 


28. 24 


19. 15 


6. 9S.T. 


3. 7 


18.23 


26.19 


23.26 


16.19 


22. 18 


B. wins. 


11. 8 


2. 7 


24. 19 


23. 16 


W. wins. 




23.26 


25. 22 


26.30 


14.23 




GAME 43. 


8. 3 


1. 6 


19.15 


27. 18 


S. 


22.18 


26.30 


22.18 


11. 18 


12. 19 


11.16 


10.14 


3. 8 


7.11 


22. 15 


21.17 0.P. 


22. 18 


24. 19 


2. 7 


30. 26 


6. 9 


20.27 


6. 9 


11. 16 


8. 3 


11. 16 


B. wins. 


32. 16 


18. 15 


27. 24 


7. 10 


26. 23 




8. 11 


W. wins. 


8.11 


3. 8 


5. 9 


I. 


15. 8 




25.22 


10. 14 


B. wins 


28.24 


3. 19 


T. 


16.20 


8. 11 




7. 11 


B. wins. 


6. 10 


31.27 


15. 19 


F. 


24. 19 K. 




19. 16 


4. 8 


11. 15 


27. 24 


20. 24 


0. 


12. 19 


29.25 


19.24 


20. 27 


27. 20 


30.26 


24. 6 


9.13 


15. 19 


32. 14 


18. 23 


20. 27 


W. wins. 


18. 9 


24. 27 


7. 10 


B. wins. 


32. 16 




5. 14 


19.23 


14. 7 




8.11 


U. 


22.18 


27. 31 


3. 19 


K. 


B. wins. 


25. 22 


6. 9 


22. 18 


22. 18 


26. 23 




1. 6 


19. 16 


31.26 


8. 11 


11. 16 


P. 


19. 15Y.Y. 


12. 19 


18. 9 


18. 14 G. 


1 23. 14 


15.11 


7. 10 


24. 15 


26. 19 


450 













EXAMPLES OE GAMES 



6? 



9. 5 


25.22 


30.26 


20.27 


I. 


1 6 


19. 15 


3. 7 


13. 17 


32.23 


2. 7 


22.18 


5. 1 


22. 18 


19. 16 


22. 26 


30.26 


14.23 


15.18 


7. 11 D. 


8. 12 


15.' 10 


15. 19 K. 


27.18 


1 5 


26. 22 


15. 11 


W. wins. 


23. 16 


20.27 


18.14 


10. 14 


12. 19 




14.30 


32.23 


5. 1 


19.16 


23.16 


G. 


22. 18 


W. wins. 


30.26 


11.20 


14.30 


11. 16 


W, wins. 




1. 6 


15.10 


21. 5 


5. 9 




GAME 44. 


26.23 


14. 23 


7. 10 


18.23 


K. 


22. 18 


6. 1 


10. 1 


5. 1 


27.18 


13. 17 


10. 14 


23.18 


24.27 


30.26 


20.27 


22. 6 


24.19 


1. 5 


1. 5 


11. 7 


32.23 


18.31 


11. 16 


13. 17 


27.31 


26.23 


22.26 


32.28 


27.24 


5. 1 


5. 14 


W. wins. 


Drawn. 


W. wins. 


8. 11 


B. wins. 


23.27 








25. 22 




32.23 


E. 


Var. 


L. 


16.20 


B. 


31.26 


28.24 


2. 6 II. 


16. 19 


31.27 


30.26 


14.18 


10.15 


28.24 


23.16 


4. 8 


11. 15 


26.19 


25.22 


7.10 


14.23 


29.25 


19. 16 


21. 17 


2. 7F. 


24.19 


26.19 


11. 16 


15. 18 


20.24 


23. 19 


1. 5 


7. 11 M.N. 


19. 15 


16. 11 


17.14 


14.23 


25.22 


16. 7 


7.11 


10. 15 


Drawn. 


19. 10 


3. 7 


2. 18 


22. 17 


11. 8 




7. 14 


30.25 


30.26 


16. 19 


15.19 


C. 


26. 19 


14.17 


8. 11 


23. 7var 


26.22 


8. 11 


14. 18 


21.14 


19.15 


14.23 


18.23 


32.27 


22. 15 


10.17 


11.16 


26. 19 


22. 18 


10. 14 


11.18 


25.21 


15. 10 


2.18 


23.26 


26.23 


19. 15 


W. wins. 


"W. wins. 


17.14 


18. 15 


3. 8 


8.11 






9.13 


26.30 


30.26 


15. 8 


H. 


M. 


14.10 


15. 10 


8. 12 


Drawn, 


11.16 


9. 14 


6.15 • 


19.24 


26.22 




28.24 


16.11 


19.10 


8. 4 


11. 16 


F. 


7. 10 L. 


7.23 


12. 16 


24.27 


18. 15 


13. 17 


15. 6 


27. 9 


30.26 


4. 8 


14. 18 


22. 6 


1. 10 


20.27 


8. 11 


27.31 


23. 5 


15. 31 - 


24. 19 


32.23 


26.23 


Drawn. 


16.32 


6. 1 


8. 11 


1. 5 


11.15 




5. 1 


31.26 


19. 12 


25.22 


23. 14 


A. 


32.27 


23.19 


10. 15 


W. wins. 


15.18 


19.16 


Drawn. 


26.22 


26. 22 




10. 7 


11.20 




1. 5 


2. 6 1. 


N. 


3.17 


28. 19 


D. 


14. 18 


30.26 


8. 12 


21. 14 


20. 24 C. 


24.28 


19. 15 


W. wins. 


15. 11 


Drawn. 


18.15 


26.23 


18. 23 G. 




9.14 




2. 6 


10.14 


27 18 




25.22 





451 



58 
Var. 


25.22 


DRAUG] 

15. 11 B. 


aTs. 
12. 8 


25.22 


3.10 


17. 10f 


11.16 


8.15 


20.24 


27.31 


6.15 


2. 7 


22.17 


19.10 


Drawn. 


2. 6 


12.16 


23. 16 


16.20 


2. 7 




W. wins. 


15. 11 


12.19 


26. 23 ' 


28.19 


C. 




16.20 


21.17 


19.26 


7.14 


15. 11 


F. 


11. 15 


7.21 


W. wins. 


19.15 


18.22 


3. 7 


20.24 


27.23 




18. 22D.E. 


25. 9 


15.10 


15.10 


20.27 


Var. 


25.18 


3. 7 


7.11 


Drawn 


23. 7 


9.13 


14.23 


21. 14 


10. 7 




3. 19 


18. 9 


15.10 


7.30 


8. 12 


I. 


32. 16 


5.14 


9.14 


14.10 


7. 3 


15. 10 


6.10 


22. 18 


10. 6 


30.25 


11. 16 


13.17 


25.22 


6. 9 


14. 18 


10. 6 


3. 8 


30.26 


9.14 


19.16 


6. 2 


25.22 


W. wins. 


17.22 


18. 9 


12.19 


18.22 


6. 1 




26. 17 


W. wins. 


24.15 


21.17 


22.17 


G. 


9. 13 




7.10 


22.25 


27.23 


2. 7 


10. 6 


SAME 45. 


15. 6 


Drawn. 


17.14 


15.10 


13.29 


22. 18 


1. 10 




1. 5 


7.11 


6. 1 


10. 14 


23. 19 


fc. 


20.24 


25.22 


29.25 


24.19 


14.23 


19.16 


23. 19 


8.12 


1. 6 


11.16 


27.18 


8. 11 


24.27 


W. wins. 


18.22 


27.24 


20.24 


28. 19 


19.16 




6. 9 


8.11 


26.22 


11.20 


27.31 


H. 


25.29 


25.22 


10. 15 A. 


32.27 


16. 11 


8. 12 


9.35 


16.20 


19.10 


9.14 


B. wins. 


15. 10 


29.22 


31.27 


2. 7 


30.26 




14. 18 


32.27 


4. 8 


28.19 


13.17 


D. 


19. 15 


3. 7 


29. 25 


7.23 


19. 16 C. 


13.17 


2. 7 


27.24 


11. 16 var 


19.15 


2. 6 


30.26 


28. 19 


7.11 


19. 15 


11.18 


16.12 


3. 8 


7.14 


B. wins 


7.11 


22.15 


6. 9 


26.23 


15. 11 r. 




22.17 


8. 11 


15.11 


18.27 


18.22 


K. 


16.19 


15. 8 


9.13 


32.23 


25.18 


10. 6 


17. 10 


3. 12 


11. 8 


W. wins. 


14.23 


17.22 


2. 7 


25.22 


3. 7 




19. 15 


6. 1 


23.16 


12.16 


8. 3 


E. 


9. 14 


22.29 


12.19 


22.18 


7.11 


18.23 


15.10 


1. 6 


21. 17f 


Drawn. 


3. 7 


15.10 


14.18 


9.13 


7.23 




11. 16 


14.18 


10. 6 


6. 9 


27. 18 


A. 


7.11 


10. 6 


18.22 


18.22 


20.27 


10. 14 


16. 19 


9. 14 


6. 1 


9.25 


32. 7 


18.15 


11.15 


6. 2 


22.26 


29.22 


3. 19 


11.18 


19.24 


23. 27 


1. 6 


19. 15 


17. 13 


22.15 


15.22 


32.23 


26.31 


3. 7 


8.11 


14. 18F.G.H 


. 24.31 


18.27 


11. 7 


1 B. wins. 


452 













EXAMPLES OF GAMES. 



69 



GAME 46. 


27.11 


9.14 


1. 5 


17.21 


11 15 


22. 18 


7. 16 


18. 9 


18. 9 


19. 16 


32.28 


11. 16 


20. 11 


5. 14 


5. 14 


12. 19 


15.24 


25.22 


3. 8 


32.27 


B. wins. 


23. 16 


28. 19 


10. 14 


26.23 


1. 5 




2. 6 


8. 11 


24. 19 


8.15 


19.16 


Var. 


16.12 


23.18 


16.20 


23.18 


12.19 


5. 9 


6. 10 


22.25 


22. 17 


15. 19 


23.16 


22.18 


27.23 


9. 6 


9. 13 


30.26 


11.20 


15.22 


9. 14 


25.29 


17. 10 


9. 14 


22.17 


25. 18 


18. 9 


6. 2 


6.22 


18. 9 


13.22 


10. 14 B. 


5. 14 


29.25 


26.17 


5.14 


25. 4 


29.25 


22. 18 


Drawn. 


13.22 


32.27 


5. 9 


8.11 


14.17 




30.26 


4. 8 


29.25 


25.22 


18. 14 


D 


2. 6 


27.24 


9.13 


7. 10 E. 


17.22 


10. 15 


26. 17 


12. 16 


25.22 


30.26 


26. 17 


19.10 


7.10 


24.15 


14. 17 


3. 8 CD. 


13.22 


6.15 


17. 14 


10. 19 


21.14 


24. 20 


14. 9 


24. 19 


10.17 


17.10 


10. 17 


11. 15 


22.26 


15.24 


21.14 


6.15 


26.23 


18. 11 


9. 6 


28. 19 


3. 7 


21.17 


17.26 


8. 24 


26. 31 


2. 6 


29.25 


8.12 


31.22 


28. 19 


6. 2 


27.24 


6. 10 


31.27 


7.11 


4. 8 


31.26 


11.16 


25.21 


1. 6 


24. 19 


32.28 


23.19 


32.27 


10.17 


17. 14 


2. 7 


8. 11 


27.23 


Drawn. 


21. 14 


16.20 


W. wins. 


19. 16 


3. 6 




1. 6 


27.23 




12. 19 


W. wins. 


E. 


19.15 


15. 18 


A. 


23. 7 




6.10 


8.11 


22. 15 


21.17 


2. 11 


C. 


24. 20 F 


15. 8 


6. 10 


5. 9 


27.23 


4. 8 


2. 6 


4. 11 


23.16 


25.21 


W. wins. 


24.20 


30.26 


23.19 


12.19 


9. 14 




10. 15 


10. 15 G 


6. 9 


14. 7 


27.23 


B. 


19. 10 


19. 10 


14. 10 


2.18 


8. 11 


1. 5 


6. 15 


6. 15 


7. 14 


Drawn. 


24.20 


29.25 


27.24 


21. 17 


19. 16 




15.24 


13. 17 


2. 7 


14.21 


Drawn. 


GAME 48. 


28. 19 


21.14 


24. 19 


20.16 




11. 15 


4. 8 


10.17 


15.24 


12. 19 


GAME 47. 


23. 19 


30.25 


31.26 


28. 19 


23.16 


22. 1.7 


9. 13 


11. 15 


9. 13 


7.10 


11.20 


11.15 


26. 23 A. 


32.28 


25.22 


22. 17 


18. 2 


23.19 


8. llvar 


15.24 


8.11 


13.22 


21.25 


8. 11 


23. 18 


28. 19 


24.20 


26. 17 


22.18 


25.22 


4. 8 


8.11 


4. 8 


9.13 


Drawn 


11.16 


27.23 


22. 18 


27.24 


18. 9 




24.20 


6. 9 


13.22 


6. 9 


13.22 


F. 


16.23 


30.26 


26.17 


32.27 


1 21. 17 


31.26 
453 



'0 



DRAUGHTS 



4. 8 

19. 15 
10. 19 
24.15 
12.16 
28.24 
16.20 
24. 19 

2. 6 
19.16 

8. 12 
15. 8 
12. 19 
23. 16 
B. wins. 

G. 

4. 8 
27.24 

10. 15 
19. 10 

6. 15 
21. 17 
14.21 
Drawn. 

GAME 49. 

11. 15 
23. 19 

9.13 
26.23 

8. 11 
23. 18 
4. 8 CD. 
27.23 

6. 9 
30.26 

9. 14 

18. 9 

5. 14 
32.27 
14.17 
21.14 
10. 17 

19. 10 
7.14 

454 



25.21 
11. 15 
24. 19 
15.24 
28. 19 
8. 11 

22. 18 

1. 5 

18. 9 

5. 14 
29.25 

11. 16 

19. 15 B. 

2. 6 
15. 11 
16.19 
23.16 

12. 19 
27.23 
19.24 
25.22 
24. 28 
22.18 

6. 9 
18.15 
28.32 

23. 19 
32.28 
11. 7 

3. 10 

15. 6 
28.24 
19. 16 

24. 19 A 
6. 2 

19.12 
2. 7 
12.16 
31. 27 
W. wins. 

A. 

24.20 

16. 11 

20.24 

6. 2 

24. 19 



2. 7 
W. wins. 

B. 

25.22 
14.18 
22. 15 

3. 7 
21.14 

7. 10 
15. 6 

2. 18 
23.14 
16.30 
14. 10 
30.25 
10. 6 
25.22 

6. 2 
Drawn. 

C. 

5. 9 
27.23 
10.14 
19.10 

6.15 
30.26 

7.10 
32. 27 

1. 5 
24.19 
15.24 

28. 19 
11.16 
22.17 
13. 22 
26. 17 

4. 8 
17. 13 

3. 7 
13. 6 

2. 9 
25. 22 

8. 11 

29. 25 

9. 13 



18. 9 
5. 14 

22. 18 
14. 17 
21.14 

10. 17 

19. 15 

16. 19 

23. 16 
11.20 
25. 22 

17. 26 
31. 22 
12. 16 
27.23 
20.24 

18. 14 
24.27 
Drawn. 

D. 

11. 16 
18.11 

16.23 
27. 18 

7. 16 

24. 20 E. 
16. 19 
30.26 

12. 16 
20.11 

2. 7 
11. 2 

4. 8 

2. 9 

5.30 
22. 17 H. 

13. 22 
25.18 

8. 11 
18.14 
10.17 
21. 14 

1. 6 

32.27 

6.10 

14. 7 



3. 10 
27.24 

10. 15 
24. 20 " 
19.23 
31.26 
23.27 
26. 23 
27.32 
23. 19 

15. 24 
28.19 
32.27 

19. 16 

11. 15 

16. 12 
27.24 

12. 8 
24.19 

8. 4 
15.18 

4. 8 
18.22 

8.12 
30.26 

20. 16 
19. 15 
12. 8 
Drawn. 

E. 

18. 15 

10. 19 
24.15 
16. 19 
30.26 
12. 16 
32.27 

3. 7 
15.11 
7. 10 F. 

11. 8 
4.11 

27.24 
11.15 
22.17 
13.22 



25. 11 

10. 15 
:4. 20 
W. wins 

F. 
6.10 

11. 8 

4. 11 

27.24 
11.15 
22. 17 
13. 22 
25. 11 
16.20 

24. 6 
7. 16 

29.25 

1. 10 

21. 17 

5. 9 

17. 13 

2. 6 

25. 22 
9. 14 

26.23 
10. 15 
31.26 
15. 19 

22. 18 
14.17 

18. 14 
20.24 

23. 18 
24.27 
18. 15 
27.31 
Drawn. 

G. 
27. 23 

10. 15 
23.18 

1. 6 

21.17 

4. 8 

11. 4 



EXAMPLES OF GAxMES. 



71 



6.10 


23. 19 


7.23 


26. 17 


16.20 


3. 7 


Drawn. 


9. 5 


Drawn 


21. 14 


24. 19 


25.22 




15. 10 


A. 


10.17 


20, 24 


7. 10 


H. 


5. 1 


27.23 


25.21 


26. 22 


27.24 


32.27 


19. 15 


2. 6 


17.22 


24.27 


1. 5 


8.11 


17.13 


23. 16 


8. 3 


28.24 


32.28 


27.24 


15.11 


12. 19 


7. 10 


27.31 


10. 14 


19.23 


1. 5 


26.22 


3. 7 


24.20 


22.18 


24.19 


11. 7 


7. 10 B. 


10. 14 


31.27 


13.17 


3. 8 


B. wins. 


18. 15 


Drawn. 


18.15 


18. 9 


28.24 




11. 18 




27.24 


5.14 


23.27 




22. 15 


D. 


20.16 


23. 18 


24.20 


GAME 50. 


6. 9 


31.27 


24.27 


16.23 


1. 5 


11. 15 


15. 6 


21. 17 


16.11 


18. 9 


31.24 


23. 19 


1.10 


27.23 


27.23 


17.22 


8.12 


9.13 


20. 16 


18.14 


8. 4 


21.17 


22.18 


26.23 


9. 14 


23.26 


23.16 


23.26 


10. 14 


6. 9 


16.11 


12. 8 


4. 8 


17. 14 


18. 9 


22.18 


Drawn. 


26.30 


16.11 


26. 31 


5.14 


15.22 




25.21 


8. 4 


14.10 


19. 15 


25.18 


B. 


30.25 


Drawn. 


31.27 


11. 18 


8. 11 


19.23 


22. 18 




10. 7 


24.19 


29.25 


18. 15 C. 


13.22 


F. 


27.23 


30.26 


9. 14 


11.18 


8. 3 


30.26 


7. 3 


19.15 


18. 9 


22. 15 


10.17 


16. 19 


23.18 


18.23 


5. 14 


6. 10 


21. 14 


15.11 


0. 5 


15.10 


23.18 


15. 16 


Drawn. 


19.23 


11. 15 


23.27 


14.23 


1. 10 




26.19 


24.19 


10. 6 


27. 18 


20. 16 


E. 


3. 7 


15.24 


27.31 


10. 15 E. 


23.26 


11. 16 


19.15 


28. 19 


6. 1 


19.10 


16. 12 


18.15 


7. 11 


22.26 


31.27 


7.23 


26.31 


16.23 


15. 11 


3. 8 


1. 6 


31. 27 


12. 8 


15. 6 


2. 6 


26.31 


26.23 


12. 16 G. 


31.27 


1.10 


11. 7 


8. 11 


25.22 


27.18 


8. 3 


31.26 


6.10 


31.27 


23. 19 


4. 8 


Drawn. 


10.14 


7. 2 


19.15 


6.10 


24.20 




26. 19 


Drawn. 


27.23 


27.23 


16.19 


C. 


14. 18 




15. 10 


10.17 


30.26 


28.24 


32.27 


G. 


23. 19 


23.26 


3. 7 


6. 10 


7.11 


23.26 


1. 5 


22.18 


32.27 


24. 19 


19.15 


30.28 


19.24 


13.22 


8. 12 


23.27 


11. 16 


12. 16 


10. 7 


21. 17 


27. 24 A. 


19.16 


15. 10 F. 


24. 20 H. 


18.23 


26,23 


19.23 


27.31 


4. 8 


4. 8 


7. 3 


18 14 


26. 19 


16.12 


30.26 


28.24 


12. 16 


19. 15 


11.16 


31. 26 D. 


18.23 


8.12 


DrawD 


14. 9 


20.11 


1 12. 8 


27 18 


1 24. 19 





455 



72 




DRAUGHTS. 






H. 1 


13. 17 


19. 15 


5. 9 


30.26 


1. 5 


23. 18 ' 


22. 13 


11. 18 


B. wins. 


8. 11 


21.17 


4. 8 


14. 18 


23.14 




26. 23 


Drawn. 


27.23 


23. 14 


22. 25 


Var. 


11. 15 B. 




16.20 


16. 32 


14. 10 


23. 19 


32.28 


B. 


31.27 


24. 19 


1. 5 


4. 8 


15.24 


6. 9 


8. 12 


32.27 


9. 6 


27.23 


28. 19 


17. 13 


24.19 


B. wins 


5. 9 


6. 9 


5. 9 


1. 6 


11.16 




6. 2 


23. 18 


29.25 


22.18 


25.22 


K. 


9. 14 


9.14 


9.13 


2. 7 


2. 7 


9. 5 


2. 6 


18. 9 


31.27 


29.25 


28. 24 M. 


11. 15 


14.18 


5. 14 


1. 5 A. 


11. 16 


7.11 


21. 17 


6. 9 


26.23 


27.24 


32.27 


18.14 


1. 6 


18.22 


2. 6 


6. 9 


14. 17 


3. 7 


17. 14 


9. 14 


24. 20 


24. 20 


21. 14 


14. 9N. 


10.26 


25.30 


15.24 


2. 7 


10.17 


7.10 


19. 1 


Drawn. 


28. 19 


20.16 


25.22 


21. 17I.K.L. 


26.31 




10. 15 


14. 18 


17.26 


1. 5 


21. 18 


GAME 51. 


19. 10 


23.14 


31.22 


9. 6 


31.26 


11.15 


6. 15 


9. 18 


16. 20 


5. 9 


B. wins. 


22.17 


17.10 


22. 6 


22. 17 


6. 2 




8.11 


7.14 


13.29 


W. win* 


11.15 


L. 


25.22 


31.27 


6. 2 




2. 7 


22.18 


9. 13 


3. 7 


7. 10 


C. 


9.14 


1. 5 


29. 25var 


23.18 


16. 11 


3. 8 


7.11 


18. 14 


15.18 


Drawn . 


10. 14 


26.23 


14.21 


10.17 


23.14 




2. 6 


5. 9 


11.18 


21. 14 


11. 15 


GAME 52. 


29.25 


17.13 


21.25 


13.17 


24. 19 


11. 15 


Drawn. 


11. 16 


18.15 


9. 6 


15.24 


23. 19 




24.20 


10.14 


17.22 


28. 19 


8.11 


A. 


15.24 


22. 18 


6. 2 


4. 8 


22.15 


6. 9 


28.19 


14.17 


22. 26 


26.23 


9. 14 var 


27.24 


1. 5 


18. 14 


B. wins. 


8.11 


25.22 


2. 7 


20.11 


25. 30 




23. 18 


11. 16 C. 


19.15 


8.24 


14.10 


M. 


6. 9 


24.20 


10.26 


27.20 


30.26 


21.17 


27.24 


16.23 


17. 3 


14,17 


10. 7 


1. 6 


1. 6 


27.11 


9. 14 


Drawn. 


17.22 


B. wins. 


32.28 


7.16 


3. 7 




7. 2 




11. 15 


20. 11 


26.31 


Var. 


13. 17 


N. 


18.11 


3. 7 


24.19 


11.16 


"B. wins. 


22.18 


9.18 


28,24 


31.27 


24.20 




13.17 


22.15 


7.16 


7.10 


16.23 


I. 


14.10 


13.29 


24. 19 


27.24 


27.11 


9. 6 


7. 14 


11. 8 


16.23 


10. 17 


7.16 


10.14 


18. 9 


29.25 


26. 19 


24. 15 


20. 11 


6. 2 


17.22 


31.26 


4. 8 


17.14 


3. 7 


456 
















EXAMPLES OT GAMES. 



73 



i 



28.24 

7. 16 
25.22 
16. 20 CD, 
29.25 
20.27 
31.24 

9. 14 F. 
26 23 

4 8 
24.19 

8.11 
30.26 
11.16 
17.13 

2. 7 
22. 18 
14.17 
21.14 
10.17 
25.21 

6.10 
21.14 
10.17 

18. 14 
17.21 

19. 15 
Drawn. 



C. 
4. 8 

26.23 
9. 14 
24.19 
8. 11 
30.26 
16.20 
17.13 
20.24 
22.17 
11. 16 
26.22 
16.20 
31.27 
24.28 
29.25 



20.24 


E. 


18.15 


24.20 


W. wins. 


30.25 


24.27 


14.17 




2. 7 


23.18 


27.24 


D. 


22.18 


27.31 


2. 7 


10. 15 


15. 22 


26.23 


25.21 


24.20 


25.18 


31.26 


17.22 


16.19 


7.10 


23. 19 


20. 16 


17.13 


29.25 


26.23 


22.26 


4. 8 


10. 14 


18 14 


32.27 


31. 27 E. 


18.15 


23. 16 


26.31 


8.11 


14.17 


15.11 


15.10 


32.28 


21. 14 


17.22 


7.14 


9.14 


9.18 


11. 2 


16.11 


29.25 


20.16 


13.17 


8.15 


6.10 


18.23 


14.10 


19.10 


27.24 


26.22 


16.19 


6.15 


5. 9 


19.24 


2. 7 


24.20 


13. 6 


16.11 


19.23 


31.24 


2. 9 


12.16 


7. 3 


28.10 


22.17 


11. 4 


Drawn. 


14.18 


9.13 


23.27 




13. 9 


25.22 


Drawn. 


GAME 53. 


18. 23 


1. 5 




11.15 


Drawn. 


26.23 


F. 


22.17 




19.26 


12.16 


8.11 


A. 


30.23 


24.20 


23.19 


24.20 


5. 9 


16.19 


4. 8 


17.21 


24.19 


17.14 


25.22 


26.23 


15.24 


9.18 


15.18 


6. 10 


28. 19 


22.15 


22. 15 


23. 14 


11.15 


6. 9 


11. 18 


10. 17 


20. 16 


15. 6 


17.13 


27.23 


15. 24 


1.10 


9.14 


8.11 


16.11 


20.16 


29.25 


31. 26 E. 


24.27 


2. 7 


14. 17var 


1. 6 


11. 7 


32.27 


21.14 


28.24 


27.31 


9.14 


10.17 


7. 10 C. 


7. 3 


8.12 


26. 22 A. 


32.28 


31.27 


5. 9 


17.26 


11.15 


23. 19 


25.22 


31.15 


25.22 


27.23 


9.13 


7.11 


3. 7 


19. 15 


27.23 


30.26 


20.16 


10.19 


19.24 


11.18 


7.11 


17.10 


22.18 


26.22 


16. 7 


19.24 


14.17 


5. 9 


2. 11 


10. 6 


21.14 


22. 15 


23. 18 B. 


B wine. 


10.17 

40 


9.14 


6. 9 



13. 6 

5. 9 

22. 13 
15.31 
24.20 
31.27 

6. 2 
27.24 
13. 6 
24. 15 

6. 1 
10.14 

1. 6 
14.18 
Drawn 

B. 

24.20 
15.24 
28.19 
11. 15 

23. 18 
15.24 
18.14 
10.15 
14.10 
24.27 

10. 1 
27.31 

1. 6 
15.18 
Drawn 

C. 

6.10 
25.22 

11. 15 D 
32.27 

7.11 
23.18 

5. 9 
13. 6 

2. 9 
22. 6 
15.31 

6. 1 
10.14 

457 



74 



DRAUGHTS. 



14.17 


6. 


10 


17. 


22 


10. 


14 


22. 


25 


14. 


18 


25. 


29 


19. 


15 


3. 


8 


15. 


10 


W. 


wins. 




D. 


2. 


6 


22. 


18 


5. 


9 


32. 


27 


10. 


14 


19. 


15 


3. 


8 


24. 


19 


7. 


10 


27. 


24 


12. 


16 


19. 


3 


10. 


28 


3. 


7 


28. 


32 


7. 


16 


32 


28 


W 


wins 



E. 

28.24 

7.10 
31.26 

3. 7 F. 
25.22 

1. 6 
22. 18 
10. 14 
18. 9 

5.14 
32.28 
14. 18 
Drawn. 

458 



F. 
11.15 

25.22 

1. 6G. 
20.16 

3. 7 
22.18 
W. wins. 

G. 

3. 7 

20. 16 

7.11 

16. 7 
2.11 

32.28 
1. 6 
24.20 
15.24 
28.19 
11.15 
19.16 
12.19 
23.16 
Drawn. 

Var. 

5. 9M. 
26.23 

1. 5 
30.26 
14. 17 L. 
21.14 
10.17 
23.14 

9.18 
26.22 

17. 26 
31.15 

7. 10 K. 
24.20 

2. 7H. 
27.23 
10. 14 
28.24 
14.17 



15.11 
W. wins. 

L. 

7.11 
19. 15 
10. 19 

24. 15 
3. 7 

26. 22 
W. wins. 

H. 

3. 7 
27.23 

5. 9 

25. 21 I. 
9.14 

13. 9 

6.13 
15. 6 

2. 9 
19.15 

7.11 
15. 10 
11.15 
28.24 
13.17 
10. 6 

9.13 

6. 2 
17.22 

2. 6 
22.26 
W. wins, 

I. 

23.18 

7.11 
32.27 
10.14 
27.23 
14.17 
25.21 

9.14 
18. 9 
11.27 



21.14 

8. 11 

9. 5 

6. 9 
13. 6 
W. wins. 

K. 

5. 9 

27. 23 

7. 10 
24. 20 

9. 14 
25.21 

3. 7 
13. 9 

6.13 
15. 6 

2. 9 
19.15 

7.11 
15. 10 
11. 15 
28.24 

8.11 
10. 6 
11.15 
24. 19 
W. wins. 

M. 

7.11 
24. 20 
11.15 
26.22 
15.24 

28. 19 
10.15 
19. 10* 

6. 15 
30.26 

8.11 
26.23 
12.16 
22. 17 

2. 6N 
17.J0 



18. 22 
25. 18 
15.22 

10. 7 
3. 10 

27.24 
W. wins. 

N. 

2. 7 
17.10 

7. 14 
31.26 

1. 6 
32.28 

5. 9 
26.22 

3. 7 
28.24 

7. 10 
W. wins. 

GAME 54, 

11. 15 

22. 17 
8.11 

23. 19 

4. 8 
25.22 

9. 13 
17. 14 
10.17 
19.10 

6.15 
21.14 
15.19 
24.15 
11.25 
30.21 

8.11 
29.25 
11.15 
25.22 
12.16 
27.23 

2. 6 
32.27 



16.20 
23. 19 
15.24 
28. 19 
6. 10 
22.17 
13.22 
26. 17 

1. 6 
31.26 
20.24 
Drawn. 

GAME 55 

11.15 

22.17 

8. 11 

23.19 

4. 8vai 
25. 22 

9.13 
27.23 

6. 9 
23. 18 

9.14 
18. 9 

5. 14 
26.23 

2. 6 
30.25 

6. 9 
31.27 

1. 5 
23.18 
14.23 
27.18 

9.14 
18. 9 

5.14 
24.20 
15.24 
28. 19 
11.15 
22. 18 
14.23 
19.16 
12.19 



EXAMPLES OE GAMES. 



75 



32.28 


1.17 


D. 


31.26 


3.10 


32.27 


13.22 


28. 14 


1. 6 


17.21 


18. 15 


3. 8N. 


Drawn. 


11.15 


28.24 


15.10 


11.18 


27. 23 




19. 10 


17.21 


6. 15 


23. 7 


17.22 


Var. 


17.22 


26.23 


19. 10 


2.11 


Drawn. 


9.13 


25. 18 


13. 17 


8.11 


Drawn. 




17.14 


5. 9 


31. 26 


25.22 




N. 


10.17 


14. 5 


6. 9 


18.25 


I. 


11. 15 


21.14 


7.32 


20.16 


29. 22 


2. 6 


19.16 


15. 18 


31.27 


11. 20 


11. 15 


29.25 


12. 19 


19.15 


32.23 


25. 22 


23. 19 


13.17 


20.16 


4. 8 


24.19 


18.25 


2. 6 


25.21 


3. 8 


24. 19 


Drawn. 


29. 6 


26.23 


11. 16 K. 


"W. wins. 


6. 9F.G. 




2.18 


6. 9 


14. 10 




28.24 


B. 


23. 14 


22. 17 


16.30 


GAME 56. 


13. 17 E. 


13. 17 


7.11 


Drawn. 


21.14 


11.15 


24.20 


31.26 


15. 10 




6. 15 


22. 17 


9. 13 


6. 9 


11. 16 


G. 


31.26 


8. 11 


32.28 


14.10 


26.23 


6. 10 


30.23 


23. 19 


2. 6 D. 


7. 14 


8.11 


15. 6 


27. 2 


4. 8 var. 


28.24 


25.22 


10. 6 


1.17 


8. 11 


25.22 


17.21 


18.25 


W. wins. 


25.22 


2. 6 


9.13 


26.23 


29. 6 




18.25 


11. 15 


27.23 


18.22A.R. 


11. 18 


E. 


30.14 


6. 10 


6. 9 


25. 18 


6. 2 


11. 16 


13. 17 I. 


15. 18 


23.18 


6.10 


5. 9 


15.11 


27.23 


W. wins. 


9. 14 


15. 6 


19.15 


8.15 


2. 6 II. 


L. 


18. 9 


1.17 


9.13 


19. 10 


23.18 




5. 14 


18. 15 


23. 19 


16.20 


17.21 


6. 10 


26.23 


11.18 


13. 17 


24.19 


26. 23 


27. 23 M. 


2. 6 


23.14 


26.23 


13. 17 


11. 16 


11.16 


24.20 


8. 11 


18. 22 C. 


25.22 


28.24 


28.24 


15.24 


29.25 


20. 16 


18.25 


6. 9 


16.20 


28. 19 


11. 15 


22.26 


19. 6 


32.27 


32.28 


10. 15 C. 


19. 10 


16.11 


2.18 


Drawn. 


20.27 


19.10 


17.22 


26.31 


20. 6 




31.24 


6. 15 


25. 18 


11. 4 


1.10 


H. 


8.11 


17.10 


5. 9 


31. 26 


19. 16 


11. 16 


24.20 


7.14 


14. 5 


W. wins. 


12. 19 


26.22 


"W\ wins. 


31.28 


7.32 




W. wins. 


17.26 




3. 7A.B 


24. 19 


C. 




31.22 


M. 


23. 18 


13. 17 


17.22 


F. 


16.20 


27.24 


14.23 


Drawn. 


15. 10 


13. 17 


32.27 


11. 15 


27.18 




22.26 


28.24 


8.11 


24.20 


15.13b 


A. 


19. 15 


11.16 


22.18 


15.24 


30.26 


6.10 


W. wins. 


26. 23 


7. 10 


28. 19 


19.24 


15. 6 




16.20 


14. 7 


8. 11 


29.25 
459 



6 

I. 6 

21.17 

7. 10 
17.14 
10.17 
25.21 
12. 16 
21. 14 

8. 12 
14. 9 

6.10 

9. 6 
10.15 
18.14 
15.19 

6. 2 
19.23 
26.19 
16,23 
22. 18 
24.27 
14. 10 
27.31 

10. 7 
31. 26 

7. 3 
26.22 
18. 14 

II. 15 
3. 7 

Drawn. 

A. 
1. 6 

22. 17 
18.22 
30.26 
22.31 
32.28 
31.24 
28. 1 
11.15 
1. 6 
8. U 
29.25 
12. 16 
6. 10 
460 



DRAUGHTS. 



15.18 
"W. wins. 

B. 

15.18 
22. 15 
11.18 
29.25 

I. 6 
30.26 

3. 7 
23.19 
13.17 
27.23 
"W. wins. 

C. 

6. 9 
30.26 
11. 15 E. 
23.28 
15.24 
28. 19 

8.11 

19. 16 
12. 19 
23.16 

I. 6D. 
26.23 

II. 15 
22.18 
15.22 
16. 11 

7.16 

20. 11 
W. wins. 

D. 
11. 15 
16.11 
7.16 
20. 11 
15.19 

II. 7 
19.24 

7. 2 
W. wins 



E. 

I. 5 

32. 27 
11.15 
20. 16 
15.24 
27.20 
12. 19 
23. 16 

8. 12 F. 
16. 11 

7. 16 
20. 11 
W. wins. 

F. 

8.11 
26. 23 

II. 15 
16. 11 

7.16 
20. 11 
W. wins, 

Var. 

9. 13 
25. 22 

6. 9 
27.23 

9.14 
24.20 
15.24 
28. 19 

11. 15 
32.28 
15. 24 
28. 19 

7.111. 
19. 16 

12. 19 
23. 7 

2.11 

26. 23 

11. 15G.H 

20.16 

3. 7 

22.18 



15.22 
23. 19 
14.18 
17.14 

10. 17 
21.14 

1. 6 
19.15 
18.23 
30.25 
23. 26 
25. 18 
26.30 
Drawn. 

G. 

5. 9 
23. 19 

11. 15 
19. 16 
15. 19 
16.11 

3. 8 



11. 



i 

8.11 
7. 2 

1. 6 
22. 18 
13.22 

2. 7 
14.23 

7. 5 
W. wins. 

H. 

4. 8 
22. 18 
13.22 
18. 9 

5.14 
30.25 
22. 26 
3L22 

3. 7 
22.18 

14.17 
21.14 



10.17 
25.21 
17. 22 
23. 19 
22.26 
21.17 

1. 6 
18.14 

6. 10 
14. 9 

8. 12 

9. 6 
Drawn. 

I. 

4. 8 
30.25 

8. 11 K. 
22.18 
13.22 

18. 9 
5.14 

29. 5 

1. 5L. 
26 22 

5." 14 
22. 18 
14. 17 
21.14 
10.17 

19. 15 
Drawn. 

K. 
7.11 

22. 18 
13.22 
18. 9 

5.14 
25. 9 
11.15 
19.16 
12. 19 

23. 16 
8.12 

16. 11 
1. 5 



9. 6 

2. 9 

11. 7 
10. 14 

7. 2 

3. 7 
2. 18 

14.30 
21. 17 
9. 13 
10. 14 
13.17 

14. 10 
17.22 
Drawn. 

L. 
11.15 

19. 16 

12. 19 
23.16 

1. 5 

16. 11 

7.16 

20. 11 
5. 14 

26.23 

15. 18 
29.25 
18.27 
31.24 
14. 18 
21.17 
18.23 
24. 19 
23.26 
25.21 
26.31 
17.14 
10.17 
21.14 
Drawn 

GAME 57. 

22. 17 
I 11. 15 

23. 19 



EXAMPLES OE GAMES. 



77 



8.11 


GAME 58. 


25.22 


A. 


28.19 


3.10 


25.22 


11. 16 


3. 7 


24.19 


23.26 


24. 6 


4. 8 


22. 18 


28.24 


7.10 


19. 15 A. 


21.17 


29.25 


10. 14 


1. 5 


19. 16 


11. 18 


6. 10 


9. 13 


25. 22 


23. 19 


10.19 


22.15 


25.21 


17.14 


8. 11 


14. 18 


25.22 


26.30 


10. 6 


10. 17 


29. 25 


Drawn. 


2. 7 


32.28 


29.25 


19. 10 


4. 8 




22.18 


13. 17 


B. wins. 


7.14 


24. 20 


GAME 59. 


7. 10 


21. 14 




22. 18 


16. 19 


11. 16 


18. 15 


9.18 


B. 


14.23 


23. 16 


22. 18 


3. 7 


25.21 


1. 5 


21.14 


14.23 


10. 14 


27.24 


30.26 


30.25 


11.16 


27. 18 


25.22 


20.27 


28. 24 D. 


5. 9 


27.18 


12.19 


8. 11 


31.24 


26.23 


32.27 


3. 7 


32. 27 


29.25 


14. 17 


15. 10 


2. 6 


24.20 


9.14 


4. 8 


Drawn . 


8.11 


22. 18 


16.19 


18. 9 


18. 15 




10. 6 


15. 22 C. 


32.27 


5. 14 


11. 18 


GAME 60. 


18.22 


25. 18 


6. 10 


22. 17 A. 


22. 15 


11. 15 


21. 17 E. 


13.22 


25.21 


19.23 


16.20 


22. 17 


23. 18 


24.20 


10. 17 


26. 19 


26. 22 A. 


8. 11 


6. 1 


12. 16 


21. 14 


8. 12 


14. 18 


23.19 


11.16 


19.12 


1. 6 


17.10 


23.14 


4. 8 


24.20 


W. wins. 


27.24 


6.24 


9.18 


25.22 


10. 19 




19. 23 


28.19 


24. 19 


9.13 


1. 6 


C. 


26. 19 


11.16 


7. 11 


27.23 


18. 15 


13.22 


6. 10 


20.11 


27.24 


6. 9 


17. 14 


24.20 


30.26 


7.32 


20.27 


23. 18 


19. 23 


15.24 


10. 17 


B. wins. 


32. 14 


9.14 


6. 1 


28. 19 


26. 22 




11. 18 


18. 9 


15.11 


12.16 


17. 26 


A. 


22. 15 


5. 14 


1. 6 


19.12 


31.22 


27.23 


6. 10 


26.23 


23.26 


W. wins. 


2. 6 


8.12 


14. 7 


2. 6B. 


6. 1 




18. 15 


23.16 


2. 18 


30.25 


26.30 


D. 


7. 10 


12.19 


28.24 


6. 9 


1. 6 


21. 17 


20. 16 ' 


31.27 


3. 7 


31.27 


30.26 


26.23 


10. 14 


6. 10 


21.17 


1. 5 


B. wins. 


15.10 


15.11 


27.23 


7.10 


23.18 




8. 11 


8. 15 


3. 8 


17. 14 


14.23 


A. 


10. 6 


19. 1 


23. 17 


10.17 


27. 18 


32.28 


18.22 


12.19 


8.12 


25.22 


12. 16f 


26.31 


6. 1 


24.15 


26.23 


18.25 


19.12 


28.24 


23.18 


14.18 


L2. 36 


30.14 


10. 14 


31.27 


1. 6 


1. 6 


30.23 


8.11 


17. 10 


24.20 


18.15 


Drawn. 


10.15 


Drawn. 


7.23 


3. 7 


17.14 




22.17 




24.19 


12. 3 


11. 16 




7.10 


A 


15.24 
.0* 


27.24 


6. 9 
461 



*S 




DRAUGHTS. 






16. 19 


27.24 


17.14 


26.10 


13.17 


4. 8 


9.13 


8. 12 


10.26 


17.26 


6. 2 


25.22 


19.23 


24. 19 


Drawn. 


30.23 


8. 11 


9.13 


13. 9 


5. 9B. 




13. 17 


2. 6 


17.14 


23. 26 


19. 15 


B. 


23. 19 


11.15 


10. 17 


9. 6 


10. 19 


3. 8 


17.22 


6. 10 


19. 10 


26.30 


23. 18 


32.27 


25.21 


15.19 


7. 14 


14.10 


14.23 


5. 9C. 


22.26 


Drawn. 


29.25 


5. 9 


21. 5 


22. 18 


21. 17 




2. 7 


B. wins. 


7.10 


17.22 


9. 13 


G. 


27.23 




25.21 


26.17 


17.14 


3. 7 


11. 16 B. 


E. 


10.15 


13.29 


26.30 


25.21 


22.18 


24.20 


28.24 


18. 15 


19. 15 


1. 6 


6. 10 


23. 18 


19.28 


11. 18 


30.26 


21. 14 


18. 9 


6. 1 


26. 10 


20. 2 


15. 8 


13. 17 


5. 14 


5. 9 


16.19 


8. 11 


26.22 


22.13 


24.20 


1. 5 


21.17 


21. 17 


14. 9 


15.31 


16. 19 C. 


18.14 


Drawn. 


14.21 


22. 6 


30.25 


23. 16 


21. 17 




23. 7 


9. 2 


31.24 


12. 19 


14.21 


A. 


11. 16 


Drawn. 


28. 19 


32.27 


5. 14 


11. 16 


Drawn. 




5. 9 


1. 6 


22.26 


31.27 




E. 


Drawn. 


27.23 


14. 18 


16.20 


C. 


15.19 




8. 12 


26.31 


23. 18 


11.15 


25.21 


n. 


23. 16 


18.23 


14.23 


20. 4 


1. 6 


17.21 


12. 19 


11. 15 


21. 14 


15.31 


21.14 


20. 16 


31. 27 


B. wins. 


6. 9 


4. 8 


6. 10 


12.19 


14. 18 




27. 18 


1. 6 


14. 7 


27.23 


21. 14 A. 


GAME 61. 


20.27 


8. 3 


3. 10 


19.24 


10. 17 


22. 17 


32.23 


Drawn. 


30.25 


28.10 


25.22 


11.15 


4. 8 




Drawn. 


11.16 


18.25 


23.19 


23. 19 


D. 




23.19 


Drawn. 


8. 11 


8. 11 


10.15 


F. 


16.23 




25.22 


28.24 


23.18 


15. 18 


26. 19 


A. 


9.13 


11. 16 


14.23 


26.19 


8. 12 


10.15 


17. 14 


24.20 


21.14 


1. 6 


18. 14 


25.22 


10.17 


16.23 


7. 10 F. 


22. 15 


3. 8 


6.10 


19. 10 


26. 19 


27. 18 


11.18 


10. 7 


27.23 


7. 14 


1. 6 


10. 17 


27.24 


8.11 


19.24 


29.25 


25.21 


32.27 


13. 17 


19. 15 


28. 19 


2. 7 


6.10 


12. 16G.II. 


32.27 


W. wins. 


15.24 


27.23 


21.17 


27.23 


17.21 




20. 16 


6. 10 A. 


7.11 


8. 12 E. 


19.15 


GAME 62. 


10.15 


31.27 


14. 7 


28.24 


6. 9 


11. 15 


16.12 


4. 8 


3. 10 


5. 9 


15.10 


22. 17 


7. 10 


24.20 


19.16 


23.19 


9. 13 


8.11 


23.18 


12. 16 D. 


12.19 


16.23 


10. 6 


23. 19 


14.23 


462 













EXAMPLES OE JAMES. 



79 



21. 7 

3.10 
26. 19 
24.27 
12. 8 
15.24 
22.18 
27.31 

8. 3 
31.27 

3. 7 
27.23 

7.14 
13.17 
14.21 
23.14 
Drawn. 

B. 

11.15 

31.27 

8. 11 

24.20 

15. 19 
23.16 
12. 19 
27.23 

3. 8 
23. 16 

8.12 
32.27 
12. 19 
27.23 
11. 15 
23.16 
15.19 

16. 11 
7.16 

Drawn. 

C. 
8.11 
28.24 
10.15 
23.19 
16.23 
26.10 



11.15 


22.18 


8.11 


19. 16 


30.26 


8.11 


23. 19 


12. 19 


7.11 


18. 9 


4. 8 


24. 8 


26. 23 


5.14 


25.22 


10.14 


15. 18 


24.20 


9.13 


Drawn. 


31.26 


11. 15 


17.14 




18.27 


20.11 


10.17 


B. 


32.23 


7. 16 


19. 10 


12. 16 


11.15 


25.22 


7.14 


28.24 


25.22 


16.19 


29.25 


10. 15 C. 


W. wins. 


23. 16 


2. 7 


23.18 




12.19 


27.23 


14.23 


GAME 63. 


27.23 


6.10 


26. 12 


11.15 


1. 6 


24.20 


17.26 


22. 17 


23.16 


11. 15 B. 


30.23 


8. 11 


14. 18 


28.24 


5. 9 


23.19 


21. 7 


8. 11 


32.28 


4. 8 


18.25 


31. 27 E. 


1. 5 


25.22 


30.21 


12.16 


24.19 


9.13 


2.20 


23.18 


15.24 


17.14 


Drawn. 


14.23 


28. 19 


10. 17 




26. 12 


13.17 


19. 10 


B. 


17.26 


21. 14 


7. 14 


6. 10 


30.23 


9.27 


29.25 


24.20 


5. 9 A. 


31.24 


3. 7 


1. 6 


25.22 


Drawn. 


27.23 


28.24 


1. 5 




11. 16 B. 


6. 9 


21.17 


C. 


31.27 


24.19 


9. 14 


8. 12 


8. 11 A. 


2. 6 


20.16 


24. 19 


22.18 


32.28 


14.21 


10.15 


16.20 


14.18 


23. 18 


19. 10 


18. 9 


22. 15 


11.20 


16.19 


5. 14 


11.27 


Drawn. 


23. 16 


23.19 


31.24 




12. 19 


11.16 


10. 14 


A. 


22. 18 


19. 15 


25.22 


13.17 


15.23 


7.10 


7.11 


21. 14 


21.14 


25.22 


30.25 


10.17 


13. 17 D. 


10.19 


14.18 


32.28 


25.21 


24.15 


22.15 


17.22 


11.15 


14. IB 


11.18 


25.18 


20.16 


21.14 


Drawn, 


15.22 


5. 9 


Drawn. 




12. 8 


14. 5 




GAME 64. 


3.12 


7.14 


A. 


11.15 


23.19 


16.11 


6.10 


22.17 


7.10 


15.18 



31.27 
W. wins. 

D. 
5. 9 

14. 5 

7. 14 
25.22 

3. 7 
31.27 
14.17 
27. 18 
19.24 
18. 14 
W. wins. 

E. 

32.28 

5. 9E. 
24.19 
15.24 
28.19 

1. 5G 
19.16 
12. 19 
23. 16 
10.15 
31.27 

15. 18 
22. 8 

3.19 
26.22 
13.26 
30. 16 

7.10 

16. 11 
10.15 
27.24 
15. 18 
11. 7 
13.17 

7. 2 
9.13 

2. 6 
17.22 

6. 9 
22.29 

463 



24 19 


8.11 


11.18 


18. 9 


22. 17 


D. 


29 25 


22.18 


23. 5 


5. 14 


9.14 


8. 11 


19. 15 


24.28 


4. 8 


23. 19 


24. 20 


17.14 


25.22 


30.26 


22.18 


6. 9C. 


15.24 


10.17 


15.10 


28.32 


7.11 


25.22 


28. 19 


21. 14 


22.26 


21.17 


5.22 


9. 13 


11.15 


4. 8 


20. 16 


13.22 


1.16 


22. 17 


W. wins. 


24.19 


26.23 


26.17 


18. 15 


13.22 




15.2 


16. 12 


32.28 


16.23 


26. 17 


C. 


28.19 


23.19 


17. 14 


26.19 


8.11 


8.11 


11.16 


10. 7 


10.17 


3. 7 


29.25 


25.22 


26.23 


19.15 


19. 15 


22.17 


14.18 


3. 8 


16.20 


7. 2 


28.24 


7.11 


27.23 


22. 17 


32.27 


15.10 


15. 8 


31.26 


18.27 


11. 16 


8.11 


12. 8 


24. 19 


11.18 


32.23 


26. 22 


29.25 


13.17 


18.14 


27.24 


11. 16 A. 


16.23 


Drawn. 


8. 3 


19.15 


20.27 


24.20 


27. 9 




17.22 


8. 3 


32. 7 


15. 24 


6. 13 


GAME 67 


2. 7 


7.11 


2.11 


20. 11 


30.26 


22.18 


25.22 


3. 8 


17.14 


7. 16 


12. 16 D. 


9. 13 


9.13 


17.22 


11.16 


28.19 


32.27 


25.22 


18.23 


14.10 


28.24 


10.15 


16.20 


5. 9 A. 


13. 9 


15. 6 


16.23 


19. 10 


24. 19 


29.25 


Drawn. 


8.15 


26. 19 


2. 6 


15. 24 


10.15 




22.25 


Drawn. 


Drawn. 


28. 19 


21.17 


F. 


31.27 






8. 11 


7.10 


14.18 


25.30 


A. 


A. 


17. 14 


25.21 


23.14 


27.24 


1. 5 


2. 6 


10.17 


1. 5 


1. 6 


30.26 


18. 15 


30.26 


21. 14 


23.19 


24.19 


24. 19 


8. 11 


6. 9B. 


4. 8 


9.14 


15.24 


26.30 


15. 8 


26.22 


29.25 


18. 9 


28. 19 


19.16 


4. 11 


9.14 


8.12 


5. 14 


11.15 


Drawn. 


22. 18 


31.26 


26.23 


26.23 


20.16 




9. 13 


4. 8 


1. 6 


6. 9B. 


15.24 


GAME 65. 


18. 9 


17. 13 


14. 9 


30.26 


16. 11 


9. 14 


5. 14 


1. 6 


6.10 


11. 16C.D 


Drawn. 


22. 18 


25.22 


24.20 


22. 18 


24.20 




5. 9 


11. 15 


15.24 


11. 15 


15.24 


G. 


25.22 


22.17 


28. 19 


18.11 


28.19 


3. 8 


11.16 


15.24 


Drawn. 


7.16 


3. 7E. 


23. 18 


29.25 


28. 19 




25.22 


20.11 


14.23 


16.20 


Drawn. 


B. 


10.14 


8.24 


21. 5 


24. 19 




4. 8 


19.15 


27.20 


11. 15 


8. 11 A. 


GAME 66 


25.22 


16.19 


12. 16 F. 


25.21 


21. 17 


9. 14 


6. 9 


23.16 


20. 11 


15.24 


14,21 


22.18 


17.13 


12. 19 


7.16 


26.19 


18. 15 


11.15 


1. 6 


Drawn. 


1 32.28 


464 













EXAMPLES OF GAMES. 



81 



4. 8 


24.15 


15. 24 


18. 9 


8. 15 


14. 18 


28.24 


11. 18 


27.20 


5. 14 B. 


16.11 


23. 14 


16.20 


22. 15 


12.19 


25. 22 


14. 18 


16. 32 


24. 19 


9. 18 


23. 16 


1L 15 


Drawn. 


14.10 


8. 11 


15. 10 


Drawn. 


23. 19 




7.14 


19. 16 


5. 9 




8.11 


A. 


6. 1 


20.24 


10. 7 


E. 


22. 17 


32.28 


14.17 


16. 7 


8.12 


8. 11 


3. 8D. 


16. 19 


13. 6 


2. 11 


7. 3 


27.24 


29.25 


23. 16 


2. 9 


22. 18 


4. 8 


3. 7 


11. 16 


14. 18 


21.14 


13.22 


26.22 


32.28 


17.13 


28. 19 


9. 18 


26. 17 


18.23 


4. 8 


16.23 


18.25 


Drawn 


10. 15 


21. 17 


22. 18 


27. 9 


17. 14 




Drawn. 


23.27 


13.22 


1. 5 


15.24 


C. 




17.14 


26.17 


25.22 


14. 7 


30.26 


B. 


9.18 


9. 13 


5. 14 


24.27 


16.20 


15. 18 


22. 15 


18. 9 


22. 17 


31.24 


18.15 


22. 15 


27.31 


13.22 


12. 16 E. 


4. 8 


2. 6 


13. 22 


3. 7 


21. 17 


26.23 


Drawn. 


15.11 


30.26 


1. 6 


22. 25 


16.20 




7.16 


11. 18 


7. 2 


17. 13 


24. 19 F. 


B. 


22. 18 


Drawn. 


6. 9 


10.14 


15.24 


6. 13 


10.15 




2. 7 


9. 6 


28. 19 


25.22 


18.11 


A. 


13.17 


W. wins. 


7.11 


11.15 


14.18 


11. 16 


7.11 




30. 25 G. 


23. 18 


23. 5 


29.25 


9.14 


F. 


20.24 


5. 9 


16.30 


16. 19 


11. 4 


7.11 


25. 22 


18. 11 


11. 7 


23. 16 


17. 21 


23.19 


11. 15 


8. 15 


Drawn 


12. 19 


25.22 


4. 8G. 


19. 16 


26.23 




24. 15 


14. 18 


32.28 


8. 12 


4. 8 


D. 


10. 19 


22. 17 


11. 15 


16.11 


23. 18 


6. 9 


27.24 


"W. wins. 


28.24 


12. 16 


8.11 


17.13 


7.10 




14. 18 


11. 7 A. 


27.23 


1. 5 


24. 15 


C. 


Drawn. 


2.11 


10. 14 


13. 6 


10. 19 


2. 6 




32.28 


24. 19 


2. 9 


31.27 


24. 19 


G. 


24.27 


15.24 


29.25 


2. 7 


15.24 


11. 15 


31.24 


28. 19 


4. 8 


27.24 


28. 19 


32.28 


16 20 


7. 10 


27.23 


7. 10 


Drawn. 


15.24 


24. 19 


32.27 


14. 17 


24. 15 




28. 19 


15. 24 


3. 7 


21.14 


10. 19 


D. 


4. 8 


28. 19 


29.25 


9.27 


32.27 


3. 7 


19. 15 


11. 15 


11. 16 


32.23 


3. 7 


24. 20 


Drawn. 


19. 16 


18. 15 C. 


5. 9 


18. 14 


15.24 




4. 8 


1. 5 


25.22 


7.11 


28. 19 


GAME 68. 


16. 11 


15. 6 


9. 14 


27.24 


11. 15 


22. 18 


15. 19 


13.17 


30.25 


6. 9 


20. 16 


9.14 


23.16 


22. 13 


14.18 
465 



32 




DRAUGSTh. 






23. 14 


4. 8 


25.22 


24.20 


22.15 


' 20. 4 


10.17 


26. 22 


8.11 


16. 19 


11. 18 


3. 8 


22. 13 


8. 12 


22.18 


27. 23 


29.25 


4. 11 


W. wins. 


27.24 


15.22 


19.24 


8.11 


7.32 




Drawn. 


19.15 


14. 9 


24. 19 


14.10 


E. 




Drawn. 


5. 14 


4. 8 


17.21 


7.11 


G. 




18. 9 


28.24 


25.22 


26.23 


19. 16 


GAME 69. 


24.28 


1. 6 


5. 9 


15. 18 


8. 12 


9.13 


9. 5 


24.20 


10. 6 


23. 19 


16. 7 


22.18 


7. 10 


6. 10 


9. 14 


18. 22 


2. 11 


10. 15 


23. 18 


32.28 


6. 1 


19. 15 


31. 26 H. 


25. 22 


15. 19 


10. 17 


W. wins 


11.18 


11. 15 


~6! 10 


18. 14 


23. 14 




24. 19 


32. 28 


18.14 


10. 17 


2. 6B. 


C. 


6. 9 


15. 18 


10. 17 


21. 14 


27.24 


6. 10 


W. wins. 


23. 19 


21. 14 


2. 7 


17.21 


22. 17 




18.22 


15. 19 A. 


22. 18 


25. 22 


13.22 


F. 


26.23 


24. 15 


7. 10 


~6.' "9 C. 


26. 17 


32.27 


4. 8 


11. 25 


14. 7 


22. 18 


11. 15 


8. 11 


19. 15 


30.21 


3.10 


13. 17 


31.26 


24. 19 


Drawn. 


8. 11 


18.15 


26. 22 


8.11 


15.24 




29.25 


11.18 


17. 26 


26. 22 


28.19 


H. 


11. 15 


26.23 


31.22 


3. 8 


11. 15 


23.19 


25. 22 


18.27 


9.13 


19. 16 


19. 16 


4. 8 


4. 8 


31. 6 


19.15 


12. 19 


7.11 


30.25 


23.18 


Drawn. 


W. wins. 


22.18 


16. 7 


20. 24 


8.11 






15.22 


2. 11 


32.23 


28.24 


A. 


B. 


24. 6 


30.26 


11.25 


12. 16 


15.18 


11.16 


W. wins. 



46b 



STURGES' CELEBRATED COLLECTION OF 150 CRITICAL 

POSITIONS, TO BE WON OR DRAWN BY 

SCIENTIFIC PLAY. 



*„* Throughout these Critical Situations the White are supposed to 
have occupied the lower half of the board : their men are, consequently, 
moving upwards. 



No. 1. WJdte to move and win 



No. 2. White to move and win. 



mm fill mm 



;■..' 



:./:. 



wm w%m 'WM 

m ■ ■ 



ipp ipp pip 









» 



w 



■r ' is ■■ 






■i 



^ ^^ 



w. 



mil mt 



\m\ 



^w- 



No. 3. White to move and draic.f No. 4. Either to move, W. win. 




,y- 



■ 



: .■.-*:■ 






i 



S^^\ni 



IP 

s 



!(§)■©■<§>■ 



* This situation occurs in a great number of games, and ought to be well 
understood. 

t This situation often occurs when each player has equal men on different 
parts of the board ; Black, however, not being able to extricate those men, 
it becomes a draw. 

467 



84 DRAUGHTS. 

No. 5. White to move and win. No. 6. White to more and draw * 




iLhb an shbk ^—^ aaa&i^^ 
L_ L_ = - • 



No. 7. Either to more, B. tcin.t No. 8. White to move and win. 



. - - 



r 






No. 9. White t 



No. 10. Black to more and tt 








z ■ 


. '../■ 


'J o : 


rr,# 


© 






n 


? ? r^!"""~r i 









* This situation, though apparently simple, should be noted, 
t White loses through being unable to keep command of square 20. 

468 






CRITICAL POSITIONS. 



85 



No. 11. Wlrite to move and win. No. 12. White to move and draw. 



n 
i 



Wm lill 



:& 



*?%%%%% #^*^3 ^^^ 



■ -a 



P 

m 






■ : 



I® 




No. 13. White to move and icin.t No. 14. White to move and win. 




No. 15. B. to mure, W. to win.* 




No. 16 




ir/h'<e to move cr«</ tvm. 










PV 






jwJ""TH«J™^~ 


1 I 


>. 












■ ■ 




- 




■ ■ ■ 


■nr? 






i^m ^^msk 


llllCC 






• 1 


JiHe v 








* 






mmi %M?% W'p 

H H ttf 


lH 


/ 




mm 








•"V 






1®1 










\s^W%* 




^^ UPS ^^ 


•®i 




:•: 


■ HI ■ 


^ — ^ ■0z%%& 




ws/'xt* i&zizts) wtas&n 



• Similar endings often occur. 

41 



469 



86 DRAUGHTS. 

No. 27. B. to move, W. in draw.* No. 18. White to move and vnn 1 



... J- 



l®l |®| 







,■ Iff 







No. 19. i?. fo more IT. to vtn.t No. 20. White to move and win. 




TLi 



m(mm 



SHI Wzzm lISP 












r r 



No. 21. H7?ite to more o«// *<.•/«. No. 22. White to move and win. 




* An instructive position. t A very neat piece of play, 

t White can force the game in a few moves. Three kings win against 
two, whenever the Black are in the double corners, as above. 



470 



CRITICAL POSITIONS. 87 

No. 23. White to move and draw No. 24. White to move ind win. 



I m 



HP mm 



mm mm 





No. 25. H r /^7e to move and win. No. 26. Black tu move and draw. 



11 •111 IB Mi 

lli_ ill M 




iZ&ZZZZi, , ZZZ: 



Iff! i 



o 



all I 



■®1 



^&? , mm mm jum 
gpi pip Hip P 

illl llKlf llli m 



No. 27. White to v.'ve a>id ivin. No. 28. White to move and win. 





.J m. 



*;-'■.- 



m mm 



471 



88 DRAUGHTS. 

No. 29. White to move and wiq. No. 30. White to move and win. 




l mm. HH 



"l 



■@1 



Illi 






A 



r 



? ft w f . 



;; 



No. 31. White to move and win. No. 32. White to move and wir 



mi mm 
HP rs I 

^^ p 
1 I 



■■I «1 

H P 
oiii 



r 






r : 



8®| 



: / 



« : 



O 



\9)w%%zk mm pi^? 



No. 33. Black to move and v&n. No. 34. White to move and win. 



% iillfp HHt§ §HiPl 

mm ® 



O 



'. -A 



mm 1 



o 



o 









m 






ilOil®il ■ 

X~^ 1^^ ^^ ^^ I 



: "? 



472 



CRITICAL POSITIONS. 



89 



No. 35. White to move and win. No. 36. B. to move, W. to draw. 



■©■•1 



I wm mt 



/ 



Hi W&i 

■I ■ ■< 



r ; >i 



■ ■ 






m { 0wi 



I® 



!©■ 



Ho 



ip 



£» 



No. 37. White to move and win. 



No. 38. White to move and win. 



mm • III mm 



:.,:. 






^ s w in • hi 
o ■ o ■ n ■ o ■ 




■■rVHI H '■ 



No. 39. White to move and win * No. 40. 5. /o move, W. to win. 







- 



m 



{ ;:-i 



o 



|t|0|0 

'H 'H 11 

I !PP H0/2\ 
I Ullf fllll v ^ / 

^^p ^p Ma® 
111111 11111 iiii 



This position though it could never occur in play, is not the less curious. 

41* 473 



90 DRAUGHTS. 

No. 41. B. to move, W. to draw. No. 42. White to r.iove, B. ttrins.* 



_- 



m.. ^a 



m 



mm. wk 

• 1 






Bo| |@m@^ 



- 



•■®H®H®H 



Boll©!!© 



No. 43. White to move and win. No. 44. Black to move and win 




o 



111 



o 



ill llllt IIP p 



no 



n 



No. 45. White to move and win. No. 46. White to move and win. 



- 
Jill iMl 


IIP 


HP 






oi 


¥%%%!? 


mm 


■®l 

lump 1 


_ • 


up tump 


a» llll 


ifF^P* 


§p?g$ Sg|§||p 


illf 1 


lH^ i 


M «1 


■ H 


ill 




1 MJ 1 


iHf il 


■ ii 



^ ^» 5 






Oai 4rO 



» n 



* The same as No. 41, with the difference of the move. 



574 



CRITICAL 

No. 47. White to move and win 



POSITIONS. 91 

No. 48. White to move and win. 





No. 49. White to move and win. No. 50. Black to move and win. 



WF 



mm 






IBP^^SSIP lip 




No. 51. White to move and win. No. 52. White to move and win. 





■ M9x 




475 



02 DRAUGHTS. 

No. 53. White to move and win. No. 54. White to move and win. 




No. 55. White to move and win. No. 56. White to move a?ul win. 



wm tm 



pi 



mm m$ 






mm. HH 




No. 57. B. to move, W. to win. No. 58. White to move and ivin. 



m. 



O 



aL_L 



■<§>Sb 

! HP 111 

I pill 11111 

"1® 




. 



- 




iHf - llll 

ill HP 



•HI 1° 



H till 



I tsii f 



. 



:'.;,m 



OBI if 



476 



CRITICAL 

No. 59. White to move and win 



positions. 93 

No. 60. White to move jnd win. 





No. 01. White to move and win. No. 62. White to move, B. wins. 



- 



' ' 



m 



fllliL_ .jliflg 

! H 



_,;^' 



111 w 

iHH „_illl 



o 



o» 




No. 63, White to move and win. No. 64. White to move and win. 



^1 i 



iilil iHH. 



^m^ 



■L ■ 



§>■© 




a ^ 






?%ite2._ s®^ 



o 



i 1 



I® 



wmy^/m 






~- 



i. ^ 



h^l;: — ' ^mm _> — ' g§ 



®1 



. 



■ 



^gO^Hvft) 



OjB ■ P 

Mm Hli lUm 



*»««»J™ 



477 



94 DRAUGHTS. 

No. 65. White to move and win. No. 66. White to move and win. 




..^ „-. : w 









■oi ■ 



W%% 'M 



§H§ §81 illl H 



wm ^ mm ** im 



HP HIP 






o 



No. 67. White to move and win. No. 68. Black to move and win. 



■Oil 

§^g t 



o 






i 



o 



■^■L mi 



• 



rT™. £35S%%SS gSS2gS% 2%S2£%2» 



(§> 



w 









No. 69. White to move and win No. 70 White to move and win. 




CRITICAL 

Nu. 71. White to move and win 



POSITIONS. 95 

No. 72. White to move and win. 



:'". 



-J ^ 



o 




S- s;' "3 



No. 73. White to move tmd icin. 




No. 74. White to move and win. 





No. 7-3. W7u7e <o move and torn. Xo. 76. ' White to move and win. 





479 



$6 DRAUGHTS. 

No. 77. White to move and win No. 78. Black to move and win. 



1 . 1 1 


iH 4H^, 


,1LH 


HI mi 


■ lit 1 


■ ■• 


llHH wMik^ 


§>■•■ 


Wk w Wk w 1 


lol 

gnu ^ gula^ 




*^J ^§§§| HlP 


B • 11®! 


^pv^y^^ 


ill 


_■ ^ 



w 



o 



o 



ifif pHf illl(8v 



No. 79. Black to move ami draw. No. 80. White to move and win. 



■ • 




No. 81. White to move and win. No. 8 2. White to move and win. 









ill tii HI 



m mm Wm 



\±wf 



!•■ iO| 



*■—■ 



jjjr 



in Hfli 

til 



J Jj|GjJj(§^ 



■ O 



480 



CRITICAL POSITIONS. 97 

No. 83. White to move and win No. 84. White to move and win. 



mf^:wm^wm 



1 1111 mm 



WKtr^Wm 



oil 



■ ' 






s -1 






m m im. 



.*.', 




§ 
h 



No. b5. While to move and win. No. 86. White to move and win. 






w 



■ 



O 




No. 87. White to move and win. No. 88. White to move and win. 



■ • 

■oB ■ 



^ 



OB 



®l 



■T 



o 



hi tsui 



■©■o 



■ ■ 



i- 







42 



481 



98 DRAUGHTS. 

No. 89. Black to move and win. No. 90. White to move and vrin. 




! ©l 



-/■■■■■■ 



o 

HI C^, IHi O 




No. 91. Black to move and draw. No. 92. White to move and win. 



■ !■•■ 



i 



o 



F 



m\ mM 



f> 






■©■©I 






o 



No. 93. White to move and 


win 


mBi y wim.^ . \ 






H. 


■ ■©! 




• | 


• 


■©■ 






fHlliP 


■ B®i 






I'ol 


IIP HP 


®i 






imp ^^ i 


.3. 


HP 

mi 





No. 94. White to move and win. 




482 



CRITICAL POSITIONS. 99 

No. 95. Black to move and win. No. 96. Black to move and win. 




No. 97. While to move and win. No. 98. Black to move, W. to win. 




No. 99. While to move and win. No. 100. Black to move and win. 



o 






mm HI 
t©fm\ m m%0\ 




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i-j 



mW 



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483 






100 DRAUGHTS. 

No. 101 31 a eh to move and win. No. 102. White to move and win. 




No. 103. While to move and win. No. 104. White to move and win. 





No. 105. White to move and tvin Xo. 106. Black to move and win. 




484 



CRITICAL POSITIONS. 10i 

No. 107. White to move and win. No. 108. White to move and win. 






^m m 






^Z& £^ 



o 



loll m ® 



©■ m 



**.„ZZ 40* 



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r- 



olio 



,J Hi 

ii» mm 



No. 1 09. Wltite to move and win. No. 1 1 0. White to move and win. 



■ ■ 



i ■• 



■ ■ 



o 



m>a ■ op 

i tuiii,. 11111 11111 





•l2j 


i*H 




■ •,1 


1 • iiv 


l°I 




■L 11 


Np 







No. 111. White to move and win. 



■o 



■OHoH i 

g^^ ggegg* ^p|gs PIPIP 

m mm Wm • 
m mm mm. wmL 
-*jq • ••-3 fill lip* 

■ ■! ftflL . ■ 



loao 



No. 112. 


White to move and win. 




lUR 


•H 


I ■•■oil 

m mm 




1 WMzik, Ws&M wsMk 




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■ liKpo 

loll ■ ■ 



42* 



485 



i02 DRAUGHTS. 

No. 1 13. White to move and win. No. 114. White to move and win. 



r- 





No. 1 15. White to move and icin. N<>. 1 10. White to move and m 





No. 1 17. White to move and win No. US. White to move and win. 




H 



m^ imp 









mm. 



•mm 




1 'WKk'r\ 

mmO 



486 



CRITICAL 

No. 1 19. White to move and win. 



POSITIONS. 103 

No. 120. Black to move and win. 



■Jo 



'...I 









a 



1811 

■m. 



ioioP 



_--_.,_ 



iHl „ t§lil ^^ iH 



nzzzm. aezz^Zt memi& izz&zzi- 

m<Nm 

- . 



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wk m 



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No. 121. W hitt to move and win. No. 122. White iu move and win. 



'% 






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fiH §t§ 



■fin 







No. 123. Black to move an 1 10 a. No. 124. White to move and win. 



a . HI 

1 ^ ^ 



HO 



Ol 



o 



gpgp IP 2 

ill 




487 



104 DRAUGHTS. 

No. 125. White to move and win. No. 126. White to move and win. 



o 



lOHl 

joioi 



•m 



m* 



Off 



mm wm wm 



0|0| 



'mmOmm* 



H wl 401 

§p pii iip 



H i.oi 



No. 127. White to move and win. No. 12S. White to move and win. 



HI* 
Ol 






O 



o 






<# '-•"£' 



™ ! I»H1 




>)§■■ Hi 



frlHr>l 



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mm mm mm^ 

''■"ZZSZZb VHZZZHi '■eS25%%% VZZZZtiai 

j§ ioiol 

JzOtz %ZSZ1&. <zzzM. vzm 

* mW WW mW 

HI ■ ■ ■ 



Hi 



No. 129. White to move and rain. No. 130. White to mow and win. 



O ■(§)■• I 




o 

o 



L »..-.^ 



<§>! 



:J 



WKm^M 



o 
■®»o 



mump 
fPif 11118 iHIt 



■ •■ 



:ff 



.MM 



M Si ^mm mm. mm 

»■ ■ Bo 

SB ill w 



oloBo 
*0%& f^# .. 



488 



CRITICAL 
No. 131. White to move and win. 



POSITIONS. 105 

No. 132. White to move ana win. 




s 






oi 



O 



No. 133. White to move and win. No. 134. Black to move and win. 



mm.... telal T wm„ 



if MM 



i 



■ in loi 



llllll llfel 

MM P 

Hi n 



mm 



jmm 



-< : .i 




No. 135. While to move and w in. No. 136. White to move and win. 




SR^jW ill WS • 

• io'i •IP ■ 

^ IHPS v^ SUSP ™ l!PI§ illi 



H is 



O 







489 



, 



106 DRAUGHTS. 

No. 137. White to move and win. No. 138. White to move and win. 



i 



lr 



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H tap 



of 

"""HI /^-\ HHl /^ 

Oj| Q ll 



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Jt±i 



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01 



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n 

m wm 



■ololo 
1 ioiol 



No. 139. Black to move and icin. No. 140. White to move and vnn. 



mm • ml 



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Hi ' 1H§ /~\ iM IIP /- I 



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on 

Jo. 

piof lol 



No. 141. White to move and win. No. 142. White to move and win. 

r 





490 



CRITICAL 
No. 143. White to move and win 



POSITIONS. 107 

No. 144. White to move and win. 







m 



mm # ijljl O 

oii«iioi 



o 



U.a 



■o 



i§ 



o 



No. 145. Wliite to move and win. No. 146. White to move and draw. 



Up up i 



Mm 












■ol 



<^^ 



o 



O IIP V 






HP? a Bill a 

■ •■• 

1w 'be 

■mi 



MB__JB| 



§pp Oi 1111 



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No. 147. White to move and win. No. 14S. White to move and win. 





4P 



108 



DRAUGHTS. 



No. 149. White to move and win. 



No. 150. White to move and win. 





SOLUTIONS OF THE FOREGOING HUNDRED AND FIFTY POSITIONS- 



No. 1. 


15.18 


25.22 


30.26 


20.24 


No. 10 


27.32 


24. 19 


31.27 


21.30 


32.27 


12. 16 


28.24 


32.28 


22. 18 


6. 9 


15. 19 


24.20 


23. 18 


19.16 


27.32 




27.20 


15. 10 


24. 28 A. 


18.23 


18.23 


No. 6. 


28.32 


20. 11 


18. 15 


16. 11 


32.28 


27.24 




10. 1 


28.24 


23. 19 


23.27 


18. 15 


No. 8. 


11. 7 


32.28 


11. 8 


28.32 


24.20 


32. 27 




24.27 


28.32 


19.23 


15.11 


28.32 


. No. 11. 


15.18 


8.11 


32.28 


20.24 


27.24 


26.23 


12.16 


32.27 


See No. 1. 


19.23 


19.28 


32.28 


28.32 


11. 8 




24.20 


26.23 


27.32 


27.24 


27.23 


No. 3. 






28.24 


18.15 


8. 3 


7.10 


No. 7. 


No. 9. 


32.28 


24.28 


23. 18 


9. 13 


31.27 


13. 9 


24.20 


15.11 


3. 8 


10.14 


22. 18 


6. 13 


23.19 


16. 19 


18.15 


13. 9 


27. 24 


15. 6 


20.24 


32.27 




14.10 


18.15 


2. 9 


19. 15 


28.32 


No. 2. 




24.27 


19.15 


24.27 


27.31 


30.26 


No. 4. 


23. 19 


7.11 


15.18 


19.23 


27.23 


27.23 


27.24 


15.10 


3. 8 


11.15 


19. 15 


25.29 


19.16 


11.15 


18.15 


32.28 


23.30 


23.18 


24.20 


28.24 


8. 12 


15.19 


15.19 


29.25 


15. 11 


8.11 


28.32 




21.25 


26.30 


20.24 


10. 6 


27.24 


A. 


22.29 




16.20 


15. 18 


15. 11 


12.16 


30.26 


No. 5. 


24.27 


24. 19 


24.28 


18.15 


29.25 


24. ]9 


11. 15 




32.27 


16.20 


26.31 


15.24 


27. 31 




28.32 
492 



CRITICAL POSITIONS. 



109 



27.24 

32.28 
24.19 
28.32 
11.15 
32. 28 
15.18 
28.32 
18.23 
32.28 
23.27 
28.32 
19.23 
32.28 
See No. 1. 

No. 12. 
15.11 

3. 8 
10.15 

8. 3 
15.19 
12. 8 

No. 13. 
18.22 
17.26 
27. 31 

No. 14. 
26.22 
12.19 
22. 15 
19.23 
20.16 
23.27 
25.21 
17.22 
21. 17 
27.32 
17.14 
32.27 
15. 11 

No. 15. 
13.17 
30.26 



5. 9 

12. 8 

9. 13 
26.30 
17.22 

8. 4 
13.17 

4. 8 
17.21 

8. 11 
22. 25 
11.15 
25.29 
15. 18 
29.25 
30.26 

No. 16. 
17.22 
18.25 
27.23 

No. 17. 
14.17 
23.26 
15.10 
22.25 
17.21 
25.22 

10. 14 
26. 30 
14.17 

22. 18 

No. 18. 
18.15 

6. 1 
14. 9 
24.28 

23. 19 
1. 5 
9. 6 

28. 32 

19.24 

5. 1 

24.19 



No. 19. 
6. 10 
19.23 

No. 20. 

7.10 
15. 19 
21.17 

9.14 
10. 15 

No. 21. 
27.23 
32.27 
23.18 
27.23 

18. 15 
23.19 
15. 10 

19. 12 
10. 6 
12. 16 

No. 22. 
26.23 
18.22 
23. 18 
16.19 
18. 15 
22.26 
30. 16 

12. 19 

13. 9 
6. 13 

15.11 
13. 17 % 

No. 23. 
15. 19 

8.11 
19.23 
11.15 
23.27 

No. 24. 
18.15 
9.14 



26.22 


6. 2 1 


6. 9 


14.18 




22. 17 


15.11 


No. 32. 


9. 6 




19.23 


17.14 


No. 25. 


25.29 


6. 1 


24. 19 


17.21 


14. 9 


16.23 




1. 5 


22.18 


No. 33. 


9. ('. 




3. 8 


5. 1 


No. 26. 


12. 3 


6. 2 


24.27 


17.13 


1. 5 


15.11 




2. 6 


27.23 


No. 34. 


5. 1 


11. 15 


25.21 


6. 9 


23.27 


26. 17 


1. 5 


15.19 


29.25 


9.14 


27.32 




5. 1 




No. 35. 


14. 18 


No. 27. 


10. 7 


1. 5 


22.18 


15. 8 


18.22 


15.22 


2. 6 


5. 9 


17.26 




30.26 


28.32 


No. 36. 


9. 14 


27.24 


4. 8 


26. 23 


19.28 


19.23 


It. 9 


26.23 


8.11 


23. 18 




24.28 


9. 5 


No. 28. 


11.16 


18.14 


11. 7 


23.27 


5. 1 


3. 10 


6.10 


14. 9 


2. 7 


28.32 


1. 5 




16.20 


22.17 


No. 29. 


32.28 


5.14 


30.25 




17.10 


21.30 


No. 37. 




8.11 


10. 6 


No. 39. 




1. 10 


18.22 


No. 30. 


23.19 


17.26 


32.27 


8. 11 


19.24 


28.32 


31.27 


20.27 


7.10 


5. 9 




32. 23 


27.23 


No. 40 


10.14 




28.24 




No. 38. 


20.16 


No. 31. 


29.25 


24. 8 


12. 8 


1. 6 


17.14 


11. 4 


25.22 





43 



493 



110 



DRAUGHTS. 



No. 41. 
24.28 
31. 27 
23.19 
27.31 
19.24 
32.27 
24.20 
27.32 
22. 18 
31.27 

No. 42. 
32.28 
24. 20 
28.32 
22.18 
31.27 
23.19 
27.31 
19.24 
32.27 
24.28 
27.32 
18.22 
31.27 
22.26 
30.23 
28.24 

No. 43. 
22. 17 
21.25 
17.13 
25.30 
14. 9 

6. 10 

3. 7 
11. 2 

9. 6 

No. 44. 
14.18 
30. 26 A. 

9. 14 
10. 6 
494 



3. 8 
24. 20 

8.11 

6. 1 
11. 15 

1. 6 

15. 19 
20. 16 
18.23 
26.22 
23.26 

16. 11 
26.30 
11. 7 
30.26 

A. 

24. 19 
18.23 
19.16 

9. 14 
10. 6 
23.27 

6. 1 
14.10 
30.25 
27.31 
25.21 
31.26 
16. 12 B. 
10.14 

1. 5 
26.23 

5. 1 
23. 19 

1. 6 
19.15 

6. 2 
15.11 

2. 6 

3. 7 
6. 10 

14.18 
10. 3 
18. 14 



B. 

21. 17 
26. 23 
17. 13 
10. 14 

1. 5 
23.19 
16. 12 
19. 15 

5. 1 
15. 10 

1. 5 

10. 6 

No. 45. 
7. 10 

14. 7 

6. 2 

No. 46. 

15. 10 

No. 47. 

11. 7 

No. 48. 
11. 8 

No. 49. 
10. 7 

2. 11 
19. 15 

No. 50. 
21.25 

2. 7 
25.30 

7.11 
30.26 
18.14 
26.23 
14.10 

22. 18 

No. 51. 
9. 6 
1. 10 



2. 6 

No. 52. 
17.14 
10. 17 

9. 13 

No. 53. 
30.26 
22.31 

7.11 

No. 54. 
28.24 
20.27 
25.22 

No. 55. 
10. 6 

23. 14 
5. 1 
2. 9 
1. 5 

No. 56. 
13. 9 
5. 14 
6.10 

No. 57. 
22.18 
14.17 

18. 11 
10.14 

No. 58. 
10. 15 
17.21 

19. 16 
12.19 
15.24 
22.25 

24. 19 

No. 59. 
30.26 
22.18 



19.24 

28. 19 
26.23 

No. 60. 
32.27 
23.32 
26.23 

No. 61. 
11.15 
23.30 
32.27 

No. 62. 

6. 10 
27.32 
10.19 

32.28 

No. 63. 
19.24 

20. 27 
18. 22 

No. 64. 

21. 17 
9.13 

10. 15 
19.10 
18. 14 
13.22 
14. 16 

No. 65. 
22.25 
21.30 

6. 2 

No. 66. 
22.18 
13.17 
10. 6 

2. 9 
18.14 



No. 67 

2. 6 
15.18 

6.10 
18.22 
10. 14 
22.25 

7. 2 
25.29 

2. 7 
29.25 

7. 10 
25.21 

10. 15 
13. 17 

15. 19 
17.22 
19.23 

No. 68 
13. 9 
11.20 

9. 2 
20.24 
12.16 
24.28 

16. 19 
28.32 
19. 24 

No. 69 

18. 14 
9. 18 

26.22 
18.25 
24.19 

No. 70 
20.16 

19. 10 

11. 7 

No. 71 
21. 17 
14.21 
15. 18 



CRITICAL POSITIONS. 



Ill 



No. 72. 


No. 78. 


22.26 


15. 18 


6. 10 


6. 2 


24.20 


5. 9 


11. 16 




9. 6 


14. 18 


19.10 


13. 6 


20.11 


No. 92. 


10. 14 


2. 7 


20. 11 


1.10 


32.27 


20.16 


6. 2 


18.22 


10. 7 


7. 14 




12. 19 


14. 17 


13. 9 


29.25 


22.26 


No. 86. 


14. 18 


2. 7 


22.26 


7. 16 




12. 8 




11. 16 


7.10 


31.26 


Xo. 79. 


26.19 


No. 93. 


7. 10 


1. 5 


17.21 


23. 18 


14. 10 


30. 26 


17.22 


10.14 


4. 8 


11. 7 


4. 11 


18. 9 


13. 9 


26. 30 




18. 9 


18.14 


26. 19 


22.26 


9. 6 


No. 73. 


7. 2 




11.15 


9. 6 


30.26 


15. 11 




No. 87. 


10. 6 


26. 30 A. 


6. 2 


8. 15 


No. 80. 


23.26 




6. 2 


26.31 


30.26 


22.18 


30.23 


No. 94. 


30.26 


2. 7 


22.31 


13.22 


24. 19 


19. 16 


2. 7 


31.24 


32.28 




23. 16 


12.19 


26.22 


28.19 




No. 81. 


31.27 


21. 17 


10.15 


20.24 


No. 74. 


10. 6 


32. 23 


22. 13 ' 


1. 6 


7.11 


30.26 


1.10 


15. 10 


27.23 


7.11 


24.28 


31.22 


14. 7 


6.15 






11. 15 


18.25 


3. 10 


5. 9 


No. 95. 


A. 


28.32 


21. 30 


17.14 


13. 6 


11. 15 


1. 5 


16.20 


20 16 




7. 3 


19. 16 


10.14 


32. 27 




No. 82. 




10. 14 


26.30 


19.15 


No. 75. 


26.23 


No. 88. 


16.11 


6. 2 


27. 23 


29.25 


17.26 


27.23 


14. 18 


30.26 


15.10 


21.30 


19.16 


20.27 


30.25 


2. 6 


23. 19 


31.26 




17.21 


18.23 


26. 22 


10. 6 


30.23 


No. 83. 


30. 26 




6.' 10 


19.15 


22. 18 


22.18 


21.17 


No. 96. 


22.26 


6. 2 


23.14 


13.22 




11.15 


10. 15 


15. 11 


15. 10 


8. 3 


No. 89. 


13. 6 


26.22 


2. 6 






6. 9 


15.19 


14.10 


12. 16 C 


No. 76. 


No. 84. 


13. 6 


6. 15 


5. 9 


14.18 


28.24 


6. 9 


15. 18 


24.20 


10. 7 


16.19 


19.28 


13. 6 






9.14 


6. 10 


10.19 


2. 9 


No. 90. 


No. 97. 


7.11 


5. 9 


20.24 


14.17 


14. 9 


3. 7 


14. 17 


10. 6 


19.15 


9. 13 


23.32 


11. 16 


11. 8 


9.13 




17.22 


9.13 


13. 9 




6.10 


No. 77. 


13.17 


20.27 


6. 13 


B. 


11. 8 


27.24 


22.25 


18.22 


4. 8 


8. 12 


10.15 


16.20 


17. 22 






14. 9 




23.18 




No. 91. 


No. 98. 


6.10 


C. 




No. 85. 


3. 8 


8. 11 B. 


9. 6 


11.15 




16. 19 


12. 3 


14. 9 


10.14 


14.10 
495 



L12 




DR> 


LtiGHTS. 






15. 11 


6. 1 


6.10 


11 . 22 


No. 117. 


15.11 


6. 9 




18.22 


t 9 


28.24 


7.16 


5. 14 


No. 105. 


10.14 




12. 16 


30. 26 


10.17 


17. 22 


22.25 


No. M4. 


24. 19 


21.30 


12.16 


25. 18 


7. 2 


13. l 


16.23 


8.11 


17.22 


28.24 


25.29 


5. 1 


20.25 




16. 19 


20.27 


2. 7 


23. 2t 


29.22 


No. 123 


22. 18 


2. 6 


29.25 


30.23 


13. 9 


19.23 


11. 7 


1. 10 


7. 10 


19. 10 




26. 19 


18. 15 


3. 7 


25.21 


12. 19 


No. 118. 


17.26 


\9. 23 


11. 2 


10.15 


31.27 


30.25 


30.23 




9. 6 


13.17 




29.22 


14.18 


No. 99. 




15.19 


No. 115. 


23. 18 




26.22 


No. 106. 


17.22 


30.25 


22. 15 


No. 124. 


18.25 


23.27 


19.23 


29.22 


6. 1 


6. 10 


19.16 


31.24 




14. 9 




14.17 


12.19 


16. 19 


No. 110. 


5.14 


No. 119. 


10.15 




23. 15 


26.22 


10.19 


22. 18 


17.26 


No. 100. 


14. 10 


25. 18 


3. 10 


15.22 


27.24 


31.26 




9. 6 


19.23 


31.26 


20.27 


25.22 


No. 107. 


2. 9 


10. 14 


22.31 


19.16 


26.23 


24. 19 


19.16 


4. 8 


30.26 




22. 13 


15.24 


12.19 


14.17 


31.22 


No. 125. 


12.16 


30.25 


1. 5 


8. 11 


21.17 


17.14 




21.30 




17.21 


22. 13 


10. 17 


No. 101. 


32.28 


No. 111. 


11.15 


6. 1 


22. 18 


14. 18 




30.25 


21.25 




15.22 


5.14 


No. 108. 


29.22 


15.18 


No. 120. 


31.27 


23. 19 


23. 19 


31.27 




20. 16 


22.31 




16.23 


32.23 


No. 116. 


11. 20 


5. 1 


No. 102. 


22. 18 


15.10 


17.14 


19.24 




28.24 


13.22 


14. 7 


18. 9 


28.19 


No. 126. 


20.27 


14. 9 


8. 3 


15. 10 


18. 14 


19.16 


26.23 






6. 15 


17.10 


12.19 


27.18 


No. 109. 


No. 112. 


13. 6 


27.24 


14.10 


9. 5 


24.19 


13. 9 


2. 9 




31.24 




15.24 


23.32 


11.25 


No. 121 


10. 6 


No. 103. 


32.28 


30.25 


9.13 


27.23 




23. 19 


22.15 


29.22 


25.22 


18.27 


No. 127. 


24. 15 


28.10 


8. 3 


5. 9 


31.24 


21.17 


14.17 


5. 9 




3. 7 


20.27 


14.21 




6. 2 


No. 113. 


9.14 


30.26 


28.24 


No. 104. 


9.13 


30.25 


7. 10 


22.31 




30.25 


10. 7 


21.30 


14.17 




No. 12a 


29. 22 


11.15 


23.26 


22.25 


No. 122. 


10. 7 


14. 10 


2. 6 


30.23 




32.27 


3.10 


5.14 


15.18 


22.17 




31.24 


23.18 


490 













CRITICAL POSITIONS. 



113 



14. 


23 


24. 


19 


23 


16 


9. 


6 


No 


.12$ 


32. 


27 


31. 


24 


13. 


9 


5. 


14 


21. 


17 


14. 


21 


22. 


25 


21. 


30 


6. 


2 


No 


.130 


14. 


10 


7. 


14 


20. 


16 


12. 


19 


27. 


23 


No 


.131 


11. 


7 


3. 


11 


27. 


23 


20. 


27 


18. 


15 


No. 132 


22. 


17 


20. 


27 


18. 


15 


No. 133 


12. 


8 


3. 


12 


6. 


2 


23. 


16 


10. 


6 


1. 


10 


7. 


14 


16. 


7 


2. 


11 


5. 


9 


14. 


5 


13. 


17 



5. 9 




7.10 


14.10 


17.22 


No. 137. 


16.23 


6.15 


9. 14 


19. 16 


30.25 


19. 10 


22.26 


12.19 


29.22 


9. 18 


14. 18 


28.24 


14. 9 


25.21 


26.31 


19.28 




18.22 


18.22 


25.22 


No. 142. 


21.14 


4. 8 


10. 19 


12. 8 


22.31 


11. 4 


22. 17 


3. 12 


10. 6 


12.16 




19.16 


13.17 


4. 8 


No. 138. 


12. 19 


6. 2 


16. 19 


22.18 


28.24 


31.27 


8.11 


15.22 


19.28 


2. 6 


19.23 


13. 9 


26.23 


8.11 


22.25 


6. 13 


17.26 


6.10 


31.26 


27.24 


20.24 


11.16 


25. 30 










No. 139. 


No. 143. 


No. 146. 


No. 134. 


14.18 


29.25 


24. 19 


6. 9 


22. 15 


32.23 


15.24 


13. 6 


17.22 


2. 7 


28.19 


23.27 


26. 17 


30.21 


1. 6 


31.24 


19.26 


22.17 


30.26 


10.15 


30.23 


13.22 


6.10 




6. 9 


14.17 


26.23 


No. 135. 






3. 8 


13. 9 


No. 140. 


No. 144. 


19. 16 


6.13 


13. 9 


25.22 


8.15 


15.10 


16. 23 


23.16 


16.11 


7.14 


17.13 


15.11 


2. 6 


17.10 


5. 14 


6.15 


22.17 




24.19 


13. 6 


6. 9 


No. 136. 


15.24 


1.10 


17.13 


26.22 


22. 6 


28.24 


15.18 


17.26 


2. 9 




13. 6 


32.28 


13. 6 


No. 145. 


18.27 


10.17 


1.10 


22.15 


6. 2 


28.32 


27. 9 


11.27 


10.15 


1.10 




31.24 


2. 6 


27. 24 


No. 141. 


10. 14 


15.19 


20.27 


28.24 


25.22 


6.10 


16.11 


7.11 


7.11 




7. 16 


24. 19 


30.25 


No. 147. 


12. 8 


4. 8 


14.18 


23. 18 


4.11 


6. 2 


22. 15 


14.23 


19.12 


8.12 


11.18 


3. 7 


26.19 


2. 7 


21. 14 


5. 14 


32.30 


11.16 


1?. 17 


15.19 



24. 


6 


7. 


10 


6. 


15 


8. 


3 


15. 


8 


3. 


10 


4. 


8 


10. 


15 


13. 


17 


21. 


14 


29. 


25 


14. 


18 


No 


.148 


15. 


10 


19. 


12 


3. 


7 


2. 


11 


32*. 


27 


12. 


3 


27. 


24 


No. 149. 


14. 


9 


28. 


19 


18. 


15 


19. 


10 


17. 


14 


10. 


17 


9. 


6 


1. 


10 


11. 


16 


No 


.150 


18. 


15 


11. 


18 


24. 


19 


2. 


11 


20. 


16 


11. 


20 


29. 


25 


22. 


29 


17. 


22 


18. 


25 


19. 


24 


20. 


27 


14. 


10 



497 



114 



A SERIES OF ORIGINAL GAMES, BY MR. R. MARTIN. 



GAIVIE1 
11.15 

22. 18 
15.22 
25. 18 

8.11 
29.25 

4. 8 
24.20 
10.15 
25.22 
12.16 
21. 17 

8.12 

17. 13 
7.10 

27.24 
9. 14 

18. 9 
5.14 

32.27 
*14. 17 C. 

23. 18 
17. 21 A. 
27.23 

6. 9B. 

13. 6 
2. 9 

24.19 
15.24 
28.19 

1. 5 
22.17 

9.13 
18.14 
13.22 
26. 17 
11.15 

14. 7 
15.24 
20. 11 

3.10 
11. 7 



10. 


15 


7. 


2 


15. 


19 


23. 


16 


12. 


19 


2. 


7 


19. 


23 


7. 


11 


23. 


27 


11. 


15 


27. 


32 


17. 


13 


W. 


wins. 

A 



32.28 

18. 14 
3. 7 

13. 9 
6.13 
27.23 
17.21 
23. 19 
16.23 
26. 19 
10.26 

19. 3 
11.15 
31.22 

5. 9 

3. 8 

9.14 

24.19 

15.24 

28. 19 

14.17 

22.18 

17.22 

18.14 

22.25 

8.11 

25.29 



11.15 
29.25 
15. 18 
W. wins. 

B. 
2. 7 

23. 19 
16.23 
26. 19 
W. wins. 

C. 

2. 7 

24. 19 
15.24 
28. 19 
10. 15 E. 
19. 10 

6. 15 
22. 18 
15.22 
26.10 

7.14 

13. 9 

14. 17 D. 
23.18 
16.19 

9. 6 

1.10 
18. 15 
11.18 
27.23 
19.26 
31. 6 

3. 8 
6. 2 
8.11 
2. 6 

11.15 
6.10 
15.19 
10.14 
17.21 



14.18 
W. wins.f 

D. 

3. 7 

27.24 

14. 17 

31.26 

17. 21 
26. 22 

7.10 

9. 6 

10. 15 

6. 2 
W.wins. 

E. 
14.17 
13. 9 
6.13 
22.18 
10. 14 G. 

18. 9 
7.10 

27.24 
10. 14 1. 

9. 5 
17. 21 F. 
26.22 
14.17 
31.26 

3. 7 
22.18 
17.22 
26.17 
13.22 

19. 15 
16. 19 
15. 8 
19.28 

8. 3 

7. 1C 



3. 7 
W. wins. 

F. 

3. 7 
26.22 
17.26 
31.22 
14.17 
22. 18 
17.22 
19.15 
W. wins. 

G. 

10.15 
19. 10 

7. 14 
18. 9 
17. 22 H 
26. 17 
13. 22 
27.24 

3. 7 
24. 19 

7.10 

9. 6 
11. 15 
20.11 
15.24 

6. 2 
10.14 

2. 7 
14.17 

7. 10 
17.21 

10. 14 
21.25 
14.18 
25.29 
18.22 
12.16 

11. 7 



16. 20 
7. 2 
24.27 
31.24 
20.27 
23. 18 
"VV. wins 

H. 

3. 7 
27.24 
17.21 
26. 22 
W. wina. 

I. 

17.22 
26.17 
13.22 

9. 6 
10.14 

6. 2 
14. 18 K 
23. 14 
16.23 
24.19 

3. 7 
19.15 
11.18 

2.11 
W. wins 

K. 
14. 17 L. 

31.27 
17.26 
19.15 
11.18 
23.14 
16.19 
24.15 
26.31 
27.24 



* This move loses the game. 
498 



t See Sturges' 38th critical situation 



CRITICAL POSITIONS. 



115 



31.27 
15.11 
17.22 
14. 10 
27.23 
11. 8 
23.27 

8. 4 
12.16 
20.11 
27.20 

2. 7 
20.16 
11. 8 

3.12 

10. "6 
1.10 
7.14 

W. wins. 

L. 

3. 7 
23. 18 
16. 23 N. 
18. 9 

23. 27 M, 

24. 19 
27.32 
19.15 
11.18 

2.11 
32.28 

11. 7 
18.23 

9. 6 

1. 10 
W. wins. 

M. 

7.10 

24.19 

11.15 

2. 6 
15.24 

6.15 
W. wins. 



N. 
14.23 

19. 15 
11. 18 

2.11 
23.27 
11. 7 
27.32 

20. 11 
32.28 
24.200. 
18.23 

7.10 

23. 27 
31.24 
28.19 
10.14 
19.23 
Draw. 

0. 
24.19 

28.24 
19.15 

24. 19 
15. 10 
19. 15 
10. 6 
15. 8 
30.26 

1.10 

7.23 

Draw. 

GAME 2. 
11.15 
22. 18 
15.22 

25. 18 
8.11 

29.25 
4. 8 
24.20 
10.15 
25.22 
12.16 
21.17 



8.12 

17. 13 
7.10 

27.24 
9.14 

18. 9 

5. 14 
32.27 

2. 7 1. 
24. 19 
15.24 
28. 19 
14.17 

19. 15 D. 
10.19 
22.18 
17.22 
26. 17 
19.26 
30. 23 A. 
16.19 
23.16 

12. 19 
17.14 

6. 10 

14. 9 
19.23 
27.24 
10.15 
18.14 
23.27 
31.26 
27.32 
26.23 

15. 18 
23.19 
32.28 
B. wins. 

A. 

31.22 

16. 19 
18. 14 B. 

6.10 

13. 9 
10. 15 
30.25 



19. 24 
27.23 
24.27 
25.21 
27.31 

23. 18 
31.26 

9. 5 
B. wins. 

B. 

27. 23 C. 
19.26 
30.23 
6. 10 
13. 9 

10. 15 
B. wins. 

C. 
30.25 

11. 16 

20. 2 

1. 5 

2. 9 

5. 30 
22. 17 
30.26 
27.23 
19.24 
B. wins. 

D. 
27.24 
10. 15 
19. 10 

6. 15 
22. 18 G. 
15.22 
13. 9 

3. 8 

24. 19 E. 
7.10 

9. 6 
10. 14 

6. 2 
22.25 



30.21 

14. 18 
23.14 
16. 30 
B. wins. 

E. 

23.18 
7.10 

18. 14 
10. 15 
26. 23 
17.21 

9. 5 T. 
22.25 
.14. 9 
25.29 
31.26 
21.25 
30.21 
29.25 

9. 6 

1. 10 

5. 1 
10. 14 

1. 6 
25.30 

6. 10 F. 

15. 18 
10.17 
18.27 
26.23 
27.32 
B. wins. 

F. 

23. 19 
30.23 

19. 10 

23. 18 
6. 2 

16.19 

24. 15 
14. 17 
21. 14 
18. 9 
B. wins. 



G. 
23.19 

16.23 
26. 10 

7.14 
24. 19 
17.26 
30.23 
14. 17 
23.18 

1. 6H. 
19.15 

3. 8 
31.26 
17.21 
26.22 
21.25 
18.14 
W. wins 

H. 

17.22 

19.15 

3. 8 

15.10 

22.25 
10. 7 
25.30 
7. 3 
30.25 
18.14 
25.22 
14.10 
22. 18 
10. 7 
11.15 
20. 16 

12. 19 
3. 12 

19.24 

13. 9 
1. 5 

12. 16 
Draw. 

I. 
1. 5 
499 



116 



DRAUGHTS. 



24.19 
15.24 
28. 19 
3. 7 
22.18 
14.17 
26. 22 S. 
17.26 
31.22 
10. 14 K. 
18. 9 

5. 14 
22. 18 K. 

6.10 
18. 9 
11. 15 
20.11 
15.31 
11. 8 
31.27 

8. 3 
27.18 

9. 6 
2. 9 

13. 6 
7.11 
B. wins. 

K. 

27.24 
7. 10 Q. 
22.18 

6. 9 
13. 6 

2. 9 
30.25 
14.17 
25.21 
17.22 
21.17 

9.13 
17.14 
10.17 
19.15 
22.26 
15. 8 
26.31 
600 



1 20. 11 


L. 


24.28 


1 31. 26 P. 


17.14 


5. 9 


24.19 


10. 17 


W. wins. 


17.21 


22. 13 




18. 14 


24.20 


0. 


21.25 


13. 9 


9. 14 


14. 9 


11.15 


23.18 


25.30 


9. 14 


14.23 


9. 6 


15.18 


16.20 


30.25 


14.10 


W. wins. 


6. 1 


19.15 




25.22 


W. wins. 


P. 


8. 3 




31.27 


13. 17 


M. 


24.20 


1. 6 


17.14 


17.22 


17.21 


10.17 


7.11 


6. 10 


22.13 


22.25 


21.25 


15.18 


23.19 


11. 7 


13. 9 


W. wins. 


25.30 


11.16 




7. 2 


S. 13 N. 


Q. 


30.25 


18.14 


14. 17 


2. 7 


26.22 


22. 18 


25.21 


14. 17 


17.22 


7.11 


22.26 


19.15 


21.25 


17.21 


16. 19 


11. 15 


26.22 


15.11 


25.21 


46-20 


19.28 


3. 8 


13.-9 


18.14 


21.17 


19. is 


28.32 


8. 11 


9. 14 


8. 3 


17. 21 M. 


15. 11 


6.10 


11.16 


14. 10 


23.18 


21.17 


11. 8 


10. 17 


16.20 


W. wins. 


3.10 


17.21 




32.27 


15. 11 


N. 


13. 9 


21.17 


26.31 


27.23 


20.24 


18.22 


18. 15 


17. 21 L. 


31. 27 0. 


23.18 


24.28 


22.17 


10.14 


21. 17 


27. 18 


18. 11 


11.15 


17. 14 


14.21 


17.21 


18.15 


22.25 


19. 16 


14. 9 


21.17 


W. wins. 


15.24 


25.29 


1 


16.20 


9. 5 



12.16 
Draw. 

R. 
5. 9 

22. 17 
9. 14 

18. 9 
11. 15 
20. 11 
15.31 

23. 18 
7.16 

Draw. 

S. 
27.24 
5. 9 
26.22 
17.26 
31.22 

10. 14 

19. 15 
16.19 
15. 8 . 
19.28 

8. 3 

7. 10 
3. 8 

28.32 

8. 11 
32.27 

11. 8 
14.17 

8.11 
17.26 
18.15 
10.19 
23. 16 

12. 19 
30. 16 
Draw. 

T. 
14. 10 
22. 25 U. 

9. 6 



25.29 

6. 2 
29.25 

2. 6 
25.22 

6. 9 
22.17 

9.13 
17.22 
Draw. 

U. 

1. 5 
9. 6 

5. 9 

6. 2 
9. 14 

2. 6 
22.25 

6. 9 
14.18 
23. 14 
16.10 
10. 7 
19.28 

7. 3 
28.32 
14.10 
15. 19 

9. 14 
32.28 

10. 6 
19.23 

6. o> 

11. Vo 
20. 16 

12. 19 

3. 12 
19.24 
14.10 
15.18 
10.15 
18.22 
15.19 
Draw. 






GAMES BY MARTIN. 



117 



GAME 3. 


11. 16 


11. 15 


25.21 


23.19 


16.19 


9. 14 


7. 2 


22.17 


1. 6 


6. 9 


2. 9 


17.13 


5.14 


2. 6 


17.10 


25.22 


15. 6 


8.11 


29.25 


22. 17 


19.23 


14. 18 


25.22 


26.23 


23.26 


4. 8 


22. 18 


23.14 


27.30 


9.18 


18. 15 


27.23 


30.26 


18.27 


15. 11 A. 


32.23 


26.22 


10. 14 E. 


11. 7 


17. 10 


6. 10 


7.14 


7. 2 


19.10 


10.14 


6.15 


B. wins. 


24. 19 




15.24 


A. 


28.19 


21.17 


11.16 


26.23 


31. 26D. 


17. 14 


16. 20 


6. 1 


26.22 


13. 9 


20.24 


23. 18 


22. 17 


15. 11 


24.27 


18.15 


17.10 


11. 8 


27.31 


15.11 


30.25 


8. 4 


8. 11 


11. 7 


23.18 


4. 8 


31.27 


7. 2 


10. 7B. 


8.11 


3.10 


1. 5 


21.17 


11.15 


27.24 


12. 16 


18.14 


B. wins. 


24.15 




14. 7 





B. 

21.17 
27.23 
18. 14 
23. 16 
10. 7 
3.10 

14. 7 

16. 19 C. 
25.21 
19.15 

7. 2 

1. 6 

2. 9 
5.14 

17.10 

15. 6 
21.17 
11.15 

17. 14 
15. 18 
14. 9 

6. 1 
29.25 
Draw. 

C. 
11.15 
25.21 
16.11 

7. 2 
15.18 
13. 9 

5. 14 
17.10 
18.22 
10. 7 
Draw. 

D. 
29.25 
14.18 
23.14 
16.23 
14.10 
12.16 
21.17 
16.20 



17.14 
23.27 
31.24 
20.27 
25.21 

8.12 
21.17 
27.31 
10. 7 

3.10 
14. 7 

5. 9 

Draw. 

E. 

5. 9 
29.25 

9. 14 I. 
24.20 
15.24 
28.19 
11. 15 F. 
25. 22 
15.24 
22. 18 

6. 9 
13. 6 

1. 5 
18. 9 

5.14 

6. 1 
25.22 

1. 6 
22.18 
17.13 

7.11 
13. 9 
12.16 

9. 5 
24.28 

5. 1 
28.32 

1. 5 
32.28 

5. 9 
W. wins. 



F. 

14.18 
23.14 
1. 5 
31.27 
11.15 
27.24 
15. 18 
30.26 

8. 11 H. 
26.22 
18. 23 G. 
14. 9 

5.14 
22. 18 
W. wins. 

G. 
11. 15 
20. 16 
18.23 
16.11 

7.16 
14. 7 

3.10 
24.20 
15.24 
20. 11 
W. wins. 

H. 

18.23 
26. 22 
23.26 
14. 9 

5.14 
19.15 
10.28 
17. 1 

8.11 

1. 6 
11. 15 
13. 9 
15.19 

9. 5 
19.24 

5. 1 



24. 27 

6. 2 

7.11 

1. 6 
Draw. 

I. 

1. 5 
31. 26 K. 

12. 16 
19. 12 
15. 19 
24.15 
11. 27 
B. wins. 

K. 

30.26 

15. 18 
23.14 

9.18 
31.27 
6. 9 1* 

13. 6 
18.22 
25.18 
10.15 
19.10 

7.30 

6. 2 
12.16 
24.20 

16. 19 
17.14 
30.25 
14.10 
25.22 

2. 7 
19.23 

7.16 
23.32 
16.19 
Draw. 

L. 

11.16 

19.15 

501 



118 



DRAUGHTS. 



10.19 


10. 14 


19.15 


A. 


23.26 


24.15 


3. 7 


23.27 


25. 21 


25. 22 


16.19 


15. 19 


24.19 


18.22 


26.31 


17.14 


B. wins. 


27.31 


21. 17 


22. 18 


7.10 




26. 22 


16.19 


31.26 


14. 7 


N. 


14.17 


15. 10 


18. 15 


3.10 


25.21 


22. 13 


19.15 


26. 22 


21.17 


9. 14 


5. 14 


17.13 


20 ! 16 D. 


5. 9 


22. 18 


20. 16 


15. 6 


22. 18 


27.24 


14.23 


31. 27 


9. 2 


24. 20 C. 


9. 14 M. 


17. 14 


16. 11 


12.16 


18. 11 


25.21 


Draw. 


27.23 


2. 7 


16. 7 


18. 23 




11. 4 


3. 10 


8. 11 


26. 22 


GAME 4. 


23.16 


4. 8 


B. wins. 


23.26 


11.15 


13. 9 


16. 19 




22.18 


23. 19 


14. 18 


8. 11 


C. 


14.23 


9. 14 


30. 26 A. 


19.23 


16.11 


17. 14 


22. 17 


18.23 


11. 7 


1. 5 


10. 17 


6. 9 


26. 19 


10.14 


11. 4 


21. 14 


17.13 


16.23 


7. 10 


18. 11 


26.30 


2. 6 


15.10 


14.18 


B. wins. 


24.20 


25.22 


23. 18 


10.14 




30.26 


8. 11 


10. 6 


22.26 


D. 


14. 9 


29. 25 


12.16 


14. 10 


10. 6 


6.10 


4. 8 


6. 2 


26.31 


1.10 


15. 6 


24.20 


16.19 


10. 15 


15. 6 


Draw. 


15.24 


2. 7 


18. 22 


8. 11 




28.19 


19.23 


15.18 


6. 1 


M. 


11.15 


25.21 


22.25 


22.17 


18.23 


27.24 


18.22 


30.21 


1. 6 


26.22 


14.17 


7.11 


1. 5 


17.14 


23.26 


21.14 


23.26 


18.27 


6. 1 


22. 18 N. 


9.18 


11. 16 


31.24 


14. 9 


8.11 


26.23 


22. 18 


B. wins. 


1. 5 


15. 8 


18.27 


16. 11 




9. 6 


26.30 


32.23 


18.14 


B. 


5. 1 


24.15 


10. 14 


11. 7 


19.15 


6. 2 


30.23 


19. 10 


14. 9 


18.22 


1. 5 


15. 11 


6. 15 


7. 2 


25.18 


3. 7 


9.14 


13. 9 


26.30 


14.23 


B. wins. 


11. 7 


7.11 


21.17 


31.26 




10. 15 


23. 19 G. 


9. 13 


5. 14 


E. 


7. 2 


15. 18 


17. 14 


26. 19 


19. 15 


6.10 


22. 15 


30.26 


14. 18 


23.27 


2. 6 


11. 18 


B. wins. 


15. 10 F. 


24.19 


14.17 


31. 26 B. 




18.23 


27.31 


8. 3 


18.23 




30. 25 E. 


20. 16 



31.27 

10. 6 
3.10 

15. 6 

27.24 

16. 11 
24. 15 

11. 4 

12. 16 

6. 2 
15. 18 

2. 6 
18. 14 
B. wine 

F. 

20. 16 

3. 7 
30.25 

7. 10 

15. 6 
1. 10 

24. 20 

10. 14 
B. wins. 

G. 
31. 27H 
12. 16 
25.21 
14. 18 
23. 14 

16. 19 
27.23 
19.28 
B. wins. 

H. 

23. 18 
14. 23 
31.26 
5. 14 
26.10 

11. 15 N 
30.26 

8. 11 0. 
26.23 






502 



GAMES BY MARTIN. 



119 



12.16 


L. 


24. 19 


31. 26 B. 


1. 10 


28.32 


25.21 


15. 18 


32.27 


12. 16 A. 


14. 7 


10.15 


14. 18 I. 


17.10 


19. 15 


24. 19 


28. 32 


27.24 


23. 14 


18.27 


27.23 


15.24 


B. wins. 


17. 13 


16. 19 


7. 3 


15. 11 


14. 10 




32.27 


21. 17 


27.32 . 


23. 19 


5. 14 


C. 


18.14 


19.28 


10. 7 


11. 8 


10. 7 


27.23 


27.23 


10. 7 


32.27 


12. 16 


3.10 


8.12 


13. 9 


3. 10 


7. 2 


Draw. 


22. 18 


14. 10 


23. 19 


14. 7 


11. 15 




14.23 


7.14 


15. 10 


15.19 


16.11 


0. 


26. 3 


25.21 


19.23 


22. 18 


27.20 


14. 18 


W. wins. 


14.18 


9. 6 


28.32 


Draw. 


10. 6 




23.14 


23. 19 


7. 3 




1. 10 


A. 


16. 19 


6. 2 


32.27 


M. 


24. 19 


3. 7 


22.17 


19.23 


17.14 


24. 19 


Draw. 


22.17 


19. 28 


2. 7 


W. wins. 


15.24 




12.16 


26.22 


23. 19 




10. 7 


GAME 5. 


24. 19 


28. 32 


7.11 


I. 


24.27 


11.15 


15.24 


9. 6 


19. 23 


3. 8 


7. 3 


23.19 


14. 10 


1. 10 


11.15 


10. 7K. 


8.12 


9.14 


7.21 


14. 7 


23. 19 


16.19 


22.17 


22. 17 


25. 22 


32.27 


14. 17 


23. 16 


11.15 


6. 9 


~5.14 


10. 3 


5. 9 


8. 12 


17. 10 


17. 13 


22. 18 


27.23 


15.11 


24. 19 


27. 31 


2. 6 


14.23 


17. 13 


9. 13 


15.24 


20. 11 


25. 22 


26. 3 


15. 19 


17.22 


22. 17 


31.26 


8.11 


11. 15 


3. 8 


19.23 


12. 19 


Draw. 


29.25 


3. 7 


11. 15 


10. 14 


17. 10 




4. 8 


24.28 


8. 11 


23.19 


11.15 


N. 


24. 20 


B. wins. 


23. 18 


22.26 


Draw. 


14. 18 


15. 24 




22. 17 


19. 16 




22. 15 


28.19 


B. 


19.24 


11. 15 


K. 


11.18 


11.15 


30.26 


17.14 


16.19 


22. 17 M. 


25.22 


27.24 


3. 7 


18. 9 


15.10 


8.12 


18.25 


14.17 


31.27 


13. 6 


24.27 


10. 7 


30,21 


21.14 


12. 16 


15. 18 


14. 18 


1. 5L. 


8. 11 


9.18 


26. 23 C. 


11. 15 


27.31 


17.10 


21. 17 


26. 23 


8.12 


18.22 


26.30 


16.19 


11.15 


18.27 


14. 10 


15. 18 


31.27 


23.16 


17.14 


32.23 


7.14 


22.26 


Draw. 


12.28 


15. 18 


10.14 


25.21 


21.17 




7. 3 


14. 9 


19. 10 


14. 18 


26.31 


D. 


15.19 


18.23 


6. 15 


23.14 


6. 2 


14. 17 


3. 8 


9. 6 


13. 9 


16.19 


31.27 


22. 13 


W. wins. 


23.27 


14. 18 D. 


21.17 


2. 6 


5.14 




6. 2 


23. 14 


19.28 


24.28 


25.22 




27.32 


7. mi. 


9. 6 


6.10 


1. 6 



503 



L20 




DRAUGHTS. 






23. 19 E. 


30.23 


13. 9 


13.22 


25.30 


19.16 


7.10 


24. 19 


22.26 


25. 9 


22. 17 


23.14 


30.25 


W. wins. 


9. 6 


6.13 


30.25 


16. 7 


14. 17 




26.31 


29.25 


28.24 


10.15 


25.21 


G. 


6. 2 


8.11 


8.11 


7. 2 


17.26 


7.11 


31.26 


25.22 


18.14 


15.18 


31.22 


25.21 


27. 23* 


4. 8 


25. 21 


2. 9 


8.11 


3. 7 


26.22 


22.17 


B. wins. 


14. 5 


22. 17 


21.14 


2. 7 


13.22 




B. wins. 


15. 18 


15.18 


11. 161. 


26.17 


B. 




17.14 


22.15 


20. 11 


1. 5 


17. 14 D. 


D. 


10.17 


11.27 


22.18 


17. 13 M. 


9.18 


24. 19 Y 


21. 14 


14. 9 


24.20 


2. 6 


23.14 


15.24 


6. 10 


6.10 


18.27 


21. 17 E. 


1|S 17 


28.19 


14. 6 


9. 6 


7. 2 


12. 16 


$; 19 C. 


9. 14 


3. 10 


27.32 


15.24 


19.12 


|5. 24 


23. 18 


13. 9 


6. 2 


2. 6 


5. 9 


28.19 


14.21 


18.23 


8.11 


Draw. 


2S. 19 A. 


ll. 16 


27.23 


9. 6 


26.23 




9. 14 


17.23 


21.25 


23.27 


32.28 


I. 


27.23 


^-M- 


31.26 


6. 2 


23. 19 


15. 18 


14.21 


M. -7 


1 25. 29 


2i . 32 


11.16 


7.16 


2. 7 J 


7. 10 i 


26.22 


2. 7 


20.11 


18.27 


21.2^ 


21.24 


29.25 


10. 15 


7.23 


19.11 


7. V 


I U 


22. 17 


Draw. 


2. 6 


22.18 


15. |8 


31«27 


11. 16 




28.19 


11. 7 


22. #5 


22.26 


32.27 


E. 


6.24 


18.15 


11-127 . 


&svmw. 


16.20 


31.26 


Draw. 


21. 17 


32.- 23 ' 


I 


18.14 


7. 10 F. 




14.21 


2^|30 


c. 1 

27. 23 # 


25.21 


23.18 


H. 


7.14 i 


^23ll8 


19.16 


14.23 


7.10 


15.11 


30.126 


15. 12? 


8. 11 


26. 19 


14. 7 


14. 18 


24.10 


24.15 


23. 18 


3. 7 


3.10 


27. 32 


8.M 


JtfT27 


10. 15 


30.26 


30.26 


19.15 


B. wfflST 


C$2.23 


B. wins. 


15.18 


5. 14 


11. 8 




17.22 




22. 15 


26.23 


15.10 


A. 


23. 18 


E. 


7.11 


1. 6 


Draw. 


31. 26 B. 


7.10 


24. 20 L 


13. 9 


23. 19 




9.14 


28.24 


15.24 


B. wins. 


8.11 


GAME 6. 


26. 22 


8. 11 


28.19 




25.21 


11. 15 


14.21 


24.20 


11. 15 


F. 


6. 9 


23.19 


23.18 


22.25 


27. 24 K 


14. 17 


31.27 


9.14 


21.25 


31.26 


8. ii r. 


30.25 


14. 18 


22.17 


27.23 


25.30 


31.26 


17. 21 a 


22.17 


5. 9 


15.19 


26.23 


5. 9 


23. 19 


18.22 


26.23 


23.16 


30.26 


26.22 


21.30 


17.13 


9.13 


11.27 


23.19 


9.14 


19. 1 


9. 14 


30.26 


32.23 


26. 23 


21.17 



504 



• If Whit* playt 2. 7., Black should win in two more* 



GAMES BY MARTIN. 



121 



14.21 


6. 9 


13. 9 


19. 15 0. 1 


18. 15 


8.11 


22. 17 


B. wins. 


11.15 


18.22 


24.27 


2. 6 


12.16 




27.24 


26.17 


B. wins. 


11. 8 


19.12 


0. 


15.18 


11. 18 




6. 9 


21. 25 


23. 18 


9. 6 


23. 19 N. 


0. 


8.11 


23. 19 


14.23 


18.27 


18.22 


24.20 


9. 14 


15.18 


22. 17 


6. 1 


27.23 


6. 10 


11. 8 


20. 16 


15. 18 


8. 11 


22.26 


28.24 


14.17 


11.27 


32.28 


1. 6 


23. 18 


10. 17 


8.11 


32. 14 


3. 7 


11. 15 


26.31 


23.14 


17.22 


7.11 


17.14 


6. 2 


32.27 


17- 21 


19.16 


14. 7 


10. 17 


7.11 


31.26 


26.22 


12.19 


3. 10 


21. 14 


B. wins. 


27.23 


21.25 


24. 15 


Draw. 


6. 10 




26.31 


22. 17 R. 


22.26 




14. 9 


K. 


17. 13 


25. 30 


B. wins. 




10.14 


27.24 


6. 10 


17. 13 




F. 


9. 6 


3. 8 


14. 9 


30.26 


P. 


5. 9 


18.22 


26.22 


5.14 


13. 9 


19.16 


31. 26 


6. 2 


7. 10 


18. 9 


26.22 


12.19 


9.14 


14. 18 


22. 18 


31.27 


9. 6 


24.15 


26.22 


19. 16 


5. 9 


9. 6 


22.17 


9.13 


7.11 


12. 19 


B. wins. 


27. 20 


6. 2 


27.23 


21. 17 G 


24.15 




B. wins. 


17.10 


13.17 


14.21 


Draw. 


L. 




20. 16 


23.18 


22.17 




31.26 


N. 


11. 20 


17.22 


15. 18 


H. 


11.16 


24.20 


2. 4 


18.14 


23. 7 


32. 28 


26.22 


18.22 


5. 9 


22.26 


3.10 


15.24 


8. 11 


23. 18 


32. 28 Q. 


15.10 


32.27 


28. 19 


22.17 


22.26 


10. 7 


7. 2 


21.25 


8. 11 


5. 9 


27.23 


4. 8 P. 


14. 9 


27.23 


31.26 


17.14 


26.30 


9.14 


26.31 


25.30 


10. 14 


9.18 


32.27 


8. 4 


10. 6 


23. 18 


19. 16 1. 


23.14 


30.26 


14.18 


31.26 


30.25 


12.19 


16.23 


23.19 


4. 8 


6. 1 


18. 14 


23.16 


27.18 


26.30 


18.22 


26.23 


25.21 


14. 18 


10.17 


27.23 


8. 4 


1. 5 


14. 7 


27.24 


21.14 


30.26 


22.26 


23.19 


21.14 


6. 10 


15. 22 


17. 13 


4. 8 


5. 1 


7. 2 


B. wins. 


B. wins. 


7. 10 


26.31 


20.24 


14, 9 






14. 7 


8. 4 


1. 5 


2. 7 


I. 


M. 


3.10 


31.26 


24.27 


9. 14 


26. 22 K. 


17. 14 U. 


20.16 


4. 8 


5. 1 


7.16 


3. 8 


10. 17 


26.31 


26.22 


27.31 


14. 10 


22.18 


21.14 


28.24 


8. 4 


1. 5 


16. 11 


6. 10 


15. 18 


31.27 


22. 18 


31.27 


8. 15 


18. 9 


31.26 


24.20 


4. 8 


5. 1 


20.16 


5.14 


2. 6 


27.24 
44 


7. 2 


27.24 
505 



vrz 




DRAUGHTS 






1. 6 


2. 6 


22.26 


U. 


6. 2 


27.24 


3. 8 


22.18 


14. 10 


3. 7 


W. wins. 


20.27 


4.11 


6. 9 


26 31 


11. 16 




32.23 


19.23 


7. 10 


10. 14 


17. 14 


W. 


Draw 


28.19 


14. 7 


30.25 


10. 17 


16. 19 




23. 7 


5. 14 


19. 15 


21. 14 


23. 7 


Y. 


B. wins. 


7. 2 


11.18 


15. 18 X. 


3. 17 


24.20 




18.22 


14.23 


24.20 


26.23 


9. 14 


Q. 


24.19 


25.30 


7.11 


18.22 


13. 9 


4. 8 


14. 17 


24. 19 


19. 15 


23. 19 


6.22 


10. 7 


32.28 


31.26 


2. 7W. 


22.26 


20.16 


8. 4 


17.21 


20. 16 


15. 10 


28.24 


11.20 


9.14 


27.24 


26.22 


18.22 V. 


26.31 


23.18 


32.28 


3. 8 


28.24 


26. 17 


20. 16 


14.23 


14.18 


2. 7S. 


22. 26 


5. 9 


2. 7 


27. 2 


19. 15 


22.26 


23. 27 


14. 5 


32.28 


10. 14 


7.11 


7. 16 


Draw. 


7.21 


W. wins. 


2. 6 


15. 8 


26.23 




27.24 




14. 17 


12. 16 


19. 15 


T. 


3. 7 


X. 


6.10 


B. wins. 


12.19 


22. 18 


23. 18 


7.10 


17.21 




15. 10 


25.30 


W. wins. 


14. 7 


10.15 


R. 


23. 18 


27.23 




3.10 


21.25 


19. 15 T. 


24.15 


30.26 


V. 


26. 22 


31.27 


11.18 


18. 11 


32.28 


16. 19 


8. 11 


25.30 


22. 15 


B. wins. 


26.22 


23. 16 


22. 17 


27.23 


25.30 




19. 15 


12. 19 


16.20 


30.26 


15.10 


S. 


22.26 


27.23 


23. 18 


Draw 


30.26 


2. 6 


23. 19 


18.27 


15.22 




10. 6 


21.25 


26.22 


32. 16 


19. 16 




26.22 


6. 9 


B. wins. 


8.12 


12.19 




6. 2 


25.30 




10. 6 


24. 8 




8. 11 


9.14 




12.19 


22.26 




506 













123 



TWELVE ORIGINAL CRITICAL POSITIONS, BY. R MARTIN. 
No. 1. White to move and win. No. 2. White to move and win. 




I±2^ 




o 



m 



LA 



j-~r- 



Xo. 3. White to move and win. 



No. 4. White to move and win. 




r- 



No. 5. White to move and ten. No. 6. White to move and draw. 





507 



124 



CRITICAL POSITIONS BY MARTIN. 



No. 7. White to move and win. 



No. 8. While to move and win. 





No. 9. White to move and win. No. 10. White to move and win. 



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No. 1 1. White to move, and win. 



No. 12. White to 7iiove and win. 



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125 



SOLUTIONS OF MR. MARTIN^ 12 CRITICAL POSITIONS. 



No. 1. 


17.21 


15.22 


32.23 


1.10 


10.15 


10. 6 


6.10 


W. wins. 


Draw. 


30.26 


11. 8 


1.10 


13. 17 






21. 30 


15.19 


32.27 


18.23 


No. 5. 
19. 16 
12. 19 
15. 10 

6.15 
14. 10 

7.23 
27. 18 
20.27 
32. 7 

3. 10 
18. 4 
W. wins. 


No. 7. 


24.20 


23.16 


23.32 


17.22 


24.27 


30.23 


12.19 


30. 16 


10.14 


31.24 


20. 4 


8. 4 


12.19 


22.25 


13.17 


18.25 


19.24 


2. 6 


23.26 


22. 13 


27. 2 


W.wins 


W. wins. 


25.29 


16. 19 


W. wins. 






26. 30 


24. 15 




No. 12. 




"W. wins. 


7. 10 


No. 10. 


15. 10 


No. 2. 




15. 6 


15. 11 


26.19 


15. 11 


No. 3. 


W. wins. 


8. 15 


5. 1 


8. 15 


26.22 


No. 8. 

2. 7 

3. 10 
19.24 
20.27 
11.16 
12.19 
17. 13 
10. 17 
13. 15 
W. wins. 


30.25 


17.26 


24.20 


17.26 


21.30 


27. 24 


15. 24 
20.18 


19. 15 
11.27 


20.16 
12. 19 


26.27 
10. 7 


17.21 


24.22 




23.16 


3.10 


18.22 


W. wins. 


No. 6. 


30.23 


18.15 


1. 5 




19.24 


27. 2 


11. 18 


10. 6 


No. 4. 


11. 15 


"W. wins. 


1. 6 


5. 9 


19.23 


24.28 




2, 9 


6. 1 


26.10 


15. 18 


No. 11. 


13.15 


9.13 


6. 15 


22.26 


8.12 


W. wins. 


1. 6 


13. 6 


31.22 


16.11 




21. 17 


1.26 


28.32 


No. 9. 


7.16 




22. 18 


30.23 


18.27 


9. 6 


20.11 





509 



126 



POLISH DRAUGHTS. 




46l47l4s. | 491 150| 



This variety is played with a table divided into one hun- 
dred squares, fifty of each colour, and with forty counters, 
(called indifferently either pieces, pawns, or men,) one-half 
black and the other white, each player having twenty of one 
colour. (In Germany, however, Polish Draughts is now fre- 
quently played on the ordinary board, with the usual com- 
plement of twenty-four pieces.) The counters are moved 
forward, as in the English game, and upon the same system, 
namely, obliquely, from square to square; but in taking, 
they move in the Polish game either backwards or forwards. 
The King,* too have the privilege of passing over several 
squares, and even the whole length of the diagonal, when the 
passage is free, at one move, which vastly adds to the amount 
of combinations. 

It is usual both in France and England to arrange the 
counters on the white squares; but they may by consent 

* In the Polish game, almost the only one played on the Continent, the 
crowned piece is called a Queen, instead of King. Indeed, the common 
name for Draughts is Damen (women,) it follows therefore naturally that 
the principal piece should he a queen. 



POLISH DRAUGHTS. 127 

be placed on the black. The colour adopted a matter of 
indifference, excepting that the black pieces are not seen quite 
so well on their own colour as the white on theirs. 

The table is so placed, that each of the players has a double 
corner of the colour played on, to his right, viz. the squares 
numbered 45 and 50. The board, in first placing the pieces, 
is divided into two portions: that occupied by the black 
counters, comprising the twenty squares, from 1 to 20, and 
that occupied by the white, comprising those numbered from 
31 to 50, leaving between them two rows of squares unoccu- 
pied, upon which the first moves take place. 

The laws which regulate the English game are with a few 
additions equally applicable to the Polish. We have there- 
fore merely to give the directions for playing, and the two 
or three additional rules which belong peculiarly to this 
variety. 

The march of the Pawn, as already observed, is the same 
as in the English game, with this addition, that when there 
are pieces en prise (but not else) the taking Pawn may move 
backwards. Thus, White having a pawn at 25, and Black 
unsupported Pawns at 20, 9, 8, 17, 27, 38 and 39, White 
having the move would take them all, and finish at square 34. 
It will be observed that in this coup White passes a crowning 
square at 3, but he does not therefore become entitled to be 
made a King, nor has he the option of stopping en route, but 
must go on to the termination of his move at 34 or be huffed. 

The piece which captures, whether Pawn or King, cannot 
in the course of one coup repass any covered square which it 
has leaped over, but must halt behind that piece which, but 
for this restriction, would be en prise. For example, suppose 
White to have a Pawn upon 22, 32, 33, and 37, with a King 
at 43, and Black a Pawn at 3, 4, 9, and 19, with Kings at 10 
and 13. The black Queen at 13 takes the four Pawns, 22, 
33, 43 and 73, and must stop at 28, which he would have to 
touch in preparing to take 32, but is prohibited from going 
to square 37 in consequence of having passed over it before. 
A square which is vacant may be passed or repassed several 
times in the course of one coup, provided no piece is passed 
over a second time. It is the intricacy of such moves which 
renders the rule imperative that the pieces taken be not re- 
moved till the capturing Pawn is at its destination or " en 

511 



128 POLISH DRAUGHTS. 

repos." The White Pawn at 32, then takes the Black Pawn 
jeopardized at 28, as well as the pieces at 19 and 10, making 
a King. 

As regards huffing at this game the player is bound to take 
the greatest number of pieces where he has the choice, not- 
withstanding the smaller number may be most to his advan- 
tage, and failing to do so he may be huffed or compelled to 
take at the option of his adversary. Thus if on the one 
hand there are three Pawns en prise, and on the other two 
Kings, you are compelled to take the Pawns, but were there 
only two Pawns instead of three, you must take the Kings, as 
being of greatest value. When pieces, at the option of taking, 
are numerically and intrinsically the same, you may take 
which you please. The rule resolves itself into this, that you 
are controlled by numerical value, excepting when the num- 
bers are equal, and then by the actual value of the pieces. 

Kings are made in the same manner as in the English 
game. It has already been said that you cannot claim to 
have your Pawn crowned if it touches a King's square merely 
in its passage over it en coup. G-ood players, when they can- 
not prevent the adversary from reaching a King's square, 
commonly endeavour to lead him out again by placing a man 
or two in take, so as to disentitle him from being crowned. 
Indeed, it is sometimes good play to sacrifice three men, 
either for the object of gaining or capturing a King, espe- 
cially towards the end of the game, when he is of the great- 
est importance, much greater in proportion than at the Eng- 
lish game. 

The movement of the King is the great feature in this 
game, and in coup he may accomplish more angles on the 
draught-board than a billiard-ball can be made to perform, 
even in the hands of a Kentfield. He has the privilege of 
traversing the board from one extremity to the other (if the 
line be unoccupied) or of halting on any of the intermediate 
squares, like the Bishop at chess. Thus, if he stand at 28, he 
may move anywhere on the line between 5 and -16, or between 
6 and 50, but he can only move on one line at a time, unless 
there are pieces en prise, and then he may move diagonally all 
over the board, in which respect he has an advantage over the 
Bishop at chess. For example, place isolated black Pawns 
or Kings at 37, 17, 20, 30, 40, and a white King at 48. He 
512 



POLISH DRAUGHTS. 129 

will take all the pieces, by touching at the following squares, 
viz., 26, 3, 25, 34, and 45, where he rests, which squares, it 
will be perceived, though not close to the pieces, are within 
the angles. Indeed, it is possible so to place the pieces that 
a single King might capture a dozen in rotation. The follow- 
ing example is a case in which 19 may be taken at one coup. 
Pace a white King at 45, and he may take all the intervening 
pieces, by touching at the following squares, viz., 29, 18, 4, 
15, 29, 38, 27, 18, 7, 16, 27, 36, 47, 28, 49, 35, 24, 13, and 
2 where he rests. The player who may wish to try this ex- 
periment, will have to place the pieces on squares 8, 9, 10, 
11, 12, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 30, 31, 32, 33, 34, 41, 42, 43, 44. 

Between equal and skilful players the game would of ne- 
cessity be " drawn " in many positions, when the uninitiated 
would lose ) it is difficult therefore to define what are drawn 
games, but one or two of the simplest may be instanced. 
Suppose that at the end of the game one party, say White, 
has a King on the great central line, between Nos. 5 and 46, 
and Black has two or even three Kings, the game is drawn, 
as White cannot be driven from his hold, or captured, if he 
play correctly, and takes care to keep on the other side of a 
trap ; thus, if he finds White preparing to get his pieces at 
37, 38, and 49, he must be between 5 and 28, and vice versd, 
that is, always on the adversary's unfortified or weak side 
But when the single King does not Occupy the central line, 
there are many ways of winning, especially against an inferior 
player, but as these cannot be forced, the game must be con- 
sidered drawn after 15 moves, and this rule holds good al- 
though the stronger party may have given odds. Should the 
odds, however, consist in ceding the draw as a game won, 
then twenty moves may be claimed by the party giving such 
odds. 

When at the conclusion of a game, a player, who has only 
one King, offers to his adversary, who has a King and two 
men, or two Kings and a man, to crown his two men, or the 
man, for the purpose of counting the limited moves, the lat- 
ter is obliged to accept the offer, otherwise the former can 
leave the game as a draw. 

When one party at the end of a game has a King and a 
man against three Kings, the best way is to sacrifice the man 

513 



130 POLISH DRAUGHTS. 

as soon as possible, because the game is more easily defended 
with the King alone. 

In Polish Draughts especially it is by exchanges that good 
players parry strokes and prepare them ; if the game is em- 
barrassed, they open it by giving man for man, or two for 
two. If a dangerous stroke is in preparation, they avoid it 
by exchanging man for man. If it is requisite to strengthen 
the weak side of your game, it may be managed by exchang- 
ing. If you wish to acquire the move, or an advantageous 
position, a well managed exchange will produce it. Finally, 
it is by exchanges that one man frequently keeps many con- 
fined, and that the game is eventually won. 

When two men of one colour are so placed that there is an 
empty square behind each and a vacant square between them, 
where his adversary can place himself, it is called a lunette, 
and this is much more likely to occur in the Polish than the 
English game. In this position one of the men must neces- 
sarily be taken, because they cannot both be played, nor 
escape at the same time. The lunette frequently offers several 
men to be taken on both sides. As it is most frequently a 
snare laid by a skilful player, it must be regarded with sus- 
picion ; for it is not to be supposed that the adversary, if he 
be a practised player, would expose himself to lose one or 
more men for nothing. Therefore, before entering the lu- 
nette look at your adversary's position, and then calculate 
what you yourself would do in a similar game. 

Towards the end of a game when there are but few Pawns 
left on the board, concentrate them as soon as possible. At 
that period of the game the slightest error is fatal. 

The King is so powerful a piece, that one, two, or three 
Pawns may be advantageously sacrificed to obtain him. But 
in doing so it is necessary to note the future prospects of his 
reign. Be certain that he will be in safety, and occupy a 
position that may enable him to retake an equivalent for the 
Pawns sacrificed, without danger to himself. An expert 
player will endeavour to snare the King as soon as he is 
made, by placing a Pawn in his way, so as to cause his being 
retaken. 



514 



POLISn DRAUGHTS. 



131 





GAME I. 




WHITE. 


BLACK. 


WHITE. 


BLACK. 


32 to 28 


20 to 25 


46 to 41 


17 to 28 


37 to 32 


14 to 20 




(taking 22) 


41 to 37 


10 to 14 


34 to 29 


23 to 34 


31 to 27 


17 to 21 




(taking 29) 


37 to 31 


21 to 26 


32 to 14 


8 to 12 


42 to 37 


4 to 10 


(tak. 28 & 19) 




47 to 42 


20 to 24 


39 to 30 


25 to 34 


28 to 22 


14 to 20 


(taking 34) 


(taking 30) 


33 to 28 


10 to 14 


27 to 22 


18 to 27 


34 to 30 


25 to 34 




(taking 22) 




(taking 30) 


31 to 22 


3 to 9 


39 to 30 


20 to 25 


(taking 27) 




(taking 34) 




14 to 3 


12 to 17 


44 to 39 


25 to 34 


(crn'd, tak. 9) 






(taking 30) 


3 to 21 


26 to 28 


40 to 20 


14 to 25 


(taking 17) 


(tak. 21 & 22) 


(tak. 34 & 24) 


(taking 20) 


36 to 31 


7 to 12 


35 to 30 


25 to 34 


31 to 27 


12 to 18 




(taking 30) 


41 to 36 


11 to 17 


39 to 30 


18 to 23 


27 to 22 


18 to 27 


(taking 34) 






(taking 22) 


N 45 to JO 


15 to 20 


37 to 32 


28 to 37 


40 to 35 


12 to 18 




(taking 32) 


43 to 39 


7 to 12 


42 toll 


6 to 17 


39 to 33 


20 to 24 


(tak. 37, 27, 


(taking 11) 


49 to 43 


5 to 10 


&17) 




50 to 45 


10 to 15 


38 to 33 


17 to 22 


45 to 40 


15 to 20 


43 to 39 


34 to 43 


30 to 25 


2 to 7 




(taking 39) 


25 to 14 


9 to 20 


48 to 39 


16 to 21 


(taking 20) 


(taking 14) 


(taking 43) 




40 to 34 


20 to 25 


39 to 34 


21 to 27 


33 to 29 


24 to 33 


34 to 29 


13 to 18 




(taking 29) 


29 to 24 


27 to 31 


28 to 39 


12 to 17 


• 36 to 27 


22 to 31 


(taking 33) 




(taking 31) 


(taking 27) 
515 



182 



POLISH DRAUGHTS. 



WHITE. 

24 to 20 
20 to 14 
14 to 9 



BLACK. 

31 to 37 
37 to 41 
41 to 47 

(a King) 



WHITE. 

9 to 4 
(a King) 
4 to 36 
(taking 18) 



BLACK. 

47 to 14 

(taking 33) 



Drawn, each player remaining with a King and Pawn. 



GAME H. 

*i* The variations are given as notes at the foot of the page. 



WHITE. 

34 to 30 

40 to 34 
45 to 40 
50 to 45 
33 to 28 
39 to 33 
44 to 39 
49 to 44 
31 to 27 
37 to 31 

41 to 37 
47 to 41 



BLACK. 

20 to 25 

14 to 20 
10 to 14 

5 to 10 
20 to 24 

15 to 20 
18 to 23 
12 to 18 

7 to 12 

2 to 7 

10 to 15 

4 to 10 



WHITE. 

31 to 26 
33 to 24 

(taking 29) 
39 to 33 
33 to 24 

(taking 29) 
38 to 29 

(taking 33) 
37 to 31 
42 to 37 
26 to 17 

(taking 21) 



BLACK. 

24 to 29(a) 
20 to 29 
(taking 24) 
17 to 22(b) 
22 to 33 
(taking 28) 
11 to 17 ' 

7 to 11 
17 to 21 
11 to 22 
(taking 17,) 



(a) Here Black in playing from 24 to 29 commits a false move, which 
causes the loss of a pawn. It might have been avoided by playing 

17 to 21 36 to 27 

26 to 17 11 to 31 (taking 31) 

(taking 21) (taking 17 & 27) 

This would have caused a mutual exchange of two p-iecei. 

(b) The pawn at 29 is necessarily lost, as the sequel of the game will 
show, and if to save it Black had played 14 to 20, he would have lost a 
coup, thus : 





14 to 20 


33 to 24 


20 to 29 


(taking 29) 
27 to 22 


(taking 24) 
18 to 27 


32 to 21 


(taking 22) 
16 to 27 


(taking 27) 
37 to 31 


(taking 21) 
23 to 32 


34 to 5 


(taking 28) 
26 to 34 


tak. 29, 19 * 10, 
and crowned) 

516 


(taking 30) 



31 to 22 
(taking 27) 

38 to 27 
(taking 32) 

5 to 32 
(taking 28) 

40 to 29 
(taking 34) 
White having 
gained a King 
and three 
pawns. 



17 to 28 
(taking 22) 

It ifl immaterial 
how these movei 
are played. 



Polish draughts. 



133 





WHITE. 


BLACK. 






43 to 38 


14 to 20 (c) 




(c) Black, in 


playing 14 to 20, makes a false move, which 


causes him to 


lose the game, 


through a skilful coup, 


and he would not the less have lost, 


if White, in lieu of making the coup, 


bad played as follows 


: 


48 to 42 


10 to 14 


23 to 18 


22 to 17 


31 to 26 


22 to 31 


(in the lunette) 






(taking 27) 


18 to 20 


27 to 38 


36 to 27 


12 to 17 


(taking 13 k 14) 


(taking 32) 


(taking 31) 




20 to 14 


38 to 43 


44 to 39 


6 to 11 


x4 to 9 


43 to 49 


39 to 33 


1 to 6 




(a King) 


26 to 21 


17 to 26 


9 to 3 


49 to 27 




(taking 21) 


(a King) 




27 to 22 


18 to 27 


45 to 40 


6 to 11 




(taking 22) 


40 to 35 


11 to 16 


29 to 18 


20 to 29 


41 to 36 


27to43 


(taking 23) 


(taking 24) 


24 to 19 


43 to 27 


33 to 24 


13 to 22 


35 to 30 


27 to 49 


(taking 29) 


(taking 18) 


Or 




24 to 4 


8 to 13 


19 to 13 


15 to 20 


(taking 19 k 9, 




3 to 15 


49 to 35 


k crowned) 




(taking 20 




4 to 18 


22 to 13 


Immaterial where 


35 takes 2 


(taking 13) 


(taking the King) 




Drawn- 


32 to 21 


26 to 17 


Or 30 to 24 


49 to 44 


(taking 27) 


(taking 21) 


19 to 13 


44 to 22 


30 to 24 


14 to 20 


13 to 9 


22 to 4 


37 to 32 


20 to 29 




(taking 9) 




(taking 24) 


36 to 31 


4 to 36 


34 to 23 


3 to 9 




(taking 31) 


(taking 29) 




46 to 41 


36 to 20 


85 to 30 


25 to 34 




(taking 41 k 24) 




(taking 30) 


3 to 25 


16 to 21 (d) 


40 to 29 


9 to 14 


(taking the King) 




(taking 34) 




25 to 43 


21 to 26 


29 to 24 


16 to 21 


43 to 48 


15 to 20* 


38 to 33 


17 to 22 


48 to 42 


20 to 25 


42 to 38 


22 to 27 


42 to 48 


25 to 30 


33 to 28 


21 to 26 


48 to 25 


26 to 31 


32 to 21 


26 to 17 


(taking 30) 




(taking 27) 


(taking 21) 


25 to 14 


81 to 36 


38 to 32 


17 to 22 


14 to 46 


36 to 41 


28 to 17 


11 to 22 


46 to 37 


Lost. 


(taking 22) 


(taking 17) 


(taking 41) 





{d) Here commence a series of moves necessary, in order with a single 
King, to arrest the two pawns which are advancing from the right and left 
of the hoard to the crowning line. 



WHITE. BLACK. 

31 to 26 22 to 33 

(tak. 27, 37, & 38) 
29 to 38 20 to 29 

(taking 33) (taking 24) 

32 to 28 23 to 43 

(tak. 28 & 38) 



WHITE. BLACK. 

34 to 5 25 to 34 

(a King, taking (taking 30) 



29, 19, & 10) 

48 to 30 
(tak. 43 & 34) 



45 



Lost. 



617 



134 



POLISH DRAUGHTS. 



We nevertheless continue the game to its conclusion, that 
nothing may be omitted which the learner could desire. 



WHITE. 


BLACK. 


WHITE. 


BLACK. 




12 to 17 


25 to 23 


17 to 22 


5 to 37 


9 to 14 


(taking 20, 9, 




37 to 5 


18 to 23 


8, & 18) 




(taking 14) 




26 to 21 


15 to 20 


5 to 11 


6 to 17 


35 to 30 


13 to IS 


(tak. 23 & 17 


) (tak. the King) 


23 to 12 


22 to 28 


30 to 24 


16 to 21 


(taking 18) 




35 to 30 


3 to 9 


45 to 40 


28 to 33 


40 to 35 


1 to 7 


40 to 34 


33 to 38 


44 to 39 


7 to 12 


37 to 28 


38 to 16 


39 to 33 


12 to 18 




(tak. 32 & 21) 


41 to 37 


21 to 27 


12 to 8 


16 to 21 


36 to 31 


27 to 36 


8 to 3 


21 to 27 




(taking 31) 


3 to 25 


27 to 32 


46 to 41 


36 to 47 


(taking 20) 






(crn'd, tak. 41) 


25 to 20 


32 tc 37 


30 to 25 


47 to 20 
(tak. 33 & 24) 


20 to 47 


Lost. 



LOSING GAME. 

This game, which is lively and amusing, may for variety's 
sake be occasionally played. Although not ranked as scien- 
tific, it has its niceties, and requires considerable attention 
and management. 

The player who first gets rid of all his men wins the game 
Your constant object, therefore, is to force your adversary to 
take as many pieces as possible, and to compel him to make 
Kings, which is accomplished by opening your game freely, 
especially the back squares. Huffing, and the other rules, 
apply equally to this game. 



518 



THE GAME OF CHESS. 



This Game is played on a board the same as that used in 
draughts or chequers, containing sixty-four squares. The 
board must be so placed that each player will have a white 
square at his right hand. The squares are named from the 
pieces, viz. that on which the king is placed is called the 
king's square, and that on which the king's pawn is placed, 
the king's second square, that before the pawn the king's 
third square, and the next the king's fourth, and so of all the 
pieces of each side. Each player has eight pieces and eight 
pawns, which are thus placed ; the white king on the fourth 
square from the right hand, which is black, and the queen on 
the fifth, which is white, the black king on the fifth square 
from the right hand on the other side the board, directly 
opposite the white king, and the queen on the fourth, oppo- 
site the white queen ; each queen being on a square of her 
own colour. The bishops, one on the third and one on the 
sixth square of each side; the knights on the second and 
seventh, and the rooks on the first and eighth, or corner 
squares ; the pawns on the lines of squares immediately in 
front of the pieces of each side. The pieces and pawns before 
the king, and on his side the board, are called the king's 
pawn, king's bishop, king's bishop's pawn, &c. ; those before 
the queen, and on her side, are called the queen's pawn, 
queen's bishop, queen's bishop's pawn, &c. 

The white queen being on the left of her king, and the 
black queen on the right of hers, players should accustom 
themselves to play with either colour. 

The pawns move forward only ; they may move one or two 
squares the first move, but afterward only one ; the pawns can 
only take by moving angularly forward. 

The knights move obliquely three squares at a time, vault- 
ing over any piece which may be in their way, from black to 
white, and from white to black ; a move which may be better 

519 



186 CHESS. 

learnt from the games hereafter stated, than from descrip- 
tion. 

The bishops move angularly, forward or backward, on the 
colour on which they are originally placed. 

The rooks move in straight lines, forward, backward, or 
■idewise. 

The queen has the moves of the bishop and of the rook. 

The king moves in every direction, but one square only at 
a time, except in castleing. He may castle once in the game, 
which is done by placing the rook with which he castles, on 
the square next to the king, and then placing the king on the 
square next to the other side of the rook. 

The queen, rooks, and bishops, move the whole extent of 
the board, unless impeded by some other piece of pawn. 

The player is not compelled, as at draughts, to take any 
piece offered him, but may refuse if he thinks proper. When 
any piece is captured, it is removed from the board, and the 
capturing piece placed in the same square. 

When the king is exposed to the attack of any of the adver- 
sary's pieces or pawns, he is said to be in check, and if he is 
unable to avoid the attack, by taking the attacking piece, 
interposing one of his own, or retiring out of check, he is 
check-mated, and his adversary wins the game. 

When the pieces and pawns on each side are so much re- 
duced, or so situated, that neither party can check-mate the 
other's king, the game is drawn. 

When a player has no piece or pawn which he can move, 
except his king, and his king not being in check, is yet so 
situated that he cannot move without going into check, he is 
stale-mated. Phillimore, Hoyle, and many others, say that he 
who is stale-mate wins the game; but Sarrat, in his work, 
published in London, 1808, states, that "in Italy, France, 
Germany, &c, and by all Italian players of eminence, stale- 
mate is considered a drawn game ;" and gives this as an 
established law. 

LAWS OF THE GAME. 

1. If the board, or pieces, be improperly placed, the mis- 
take cannot be rectified after four moves on each side are 
played. 
520 



LAWS AND GENERAL RULES OF THE GAME. 137 

2. When a plajer has touched a piece, he must move it, 
unless it is only to replace it; when he must say, " J'adoube," 
or I replace. 

3. When a player has quitted a piece, he cannot recall the 
move. 

4. If a player touch one of his adversary's pieces, without 
saying J'adoube, he may be compelled to take it, or if it can- 
not be taken to move his king. 

5. When a pawn is moved two steps, it may be taken by 
any adversary's pawn which it passes, and the capturing 
pawn must be placed in that square over which the other 
leaps. 

6. The king cannot castle if he has before moved, if he is 
in check, if in castling he passes a check, or if the rook has 
moved. 

7. Whenever a player checks his adversary's king, he must 
say Check, otherwise the adversary need not notice the check. 
If the player should, on the next move, attack the queen or 
any other piece, and then say check, his adversary may replace 
his last move, and defend his king. 

8. When a pawn reaches the first row of the adversary's 
side, it may be made a queen, or any other piece the player 
chooses. 

9. If a false move is made, and is not discovered until the 
next move is completed, it cannot be recalled. 

10. The king cannot be moved into check, nor within one 
square of the adverse king, nor can any player move a piece 
or pawn that leaves his king in check. 



MR. HOYLE'S GENERAL RULES FOR THE GAME OF CHES8 

1. Before you stir your pieces, you ought to move your 
pawns, and afterward bring out your pieces to support them. 
Therefore, in order to open your game well, the king's, the 
queen's, and the bishop's pawns should be first played. 

2. You are not, therefore, to play out any of your pieces 
in the early part of your game, because you thereby lose 
moves, in case your adversary should have it in his power by 
playing a pawn upon them, to make them retire, which also 

45* 621 



138 CHESS. 

open3 his game at the same time ; more particularly avoid 
playing your queen out, until your game is tolerably well 
opened. 

3. Never give check unless some advantage is thereby 
gained, because you lose the move if he is able either to take 
or drive your piece away. 

4. Do not crowd your game by having too many pieces to- 
gether, choking up your passage, so as to impede your ad- 
vancing or retreating your men as occasion may render neces- 
sary. 

5. If your game is crowded, endeavour to free it by making 
exchanges of pieces or pawns, and castle your king as soon 
as possible. 

6. Endeavour, on the other hand, to crowd your adversary's 
game, thus : when he plays out his pieces before he does his 
pawns, attack them as soon as you can with your pawns, by 
which you may make him lose moves, and thus crowd him. 

7. If the adversary attacks your king, and it should not be 
in your power to attack his, offer exchanges with him : and 
if he retires when you present a piece to exchange, he may 
lose a move, and thus you gain an advantage. 

8. Play your men in so good guard of one another, that if 
any man you advance be taken, the adverse piece may be 
taken also by that which protected yours, and with this view, 
be sure to have as many guards to your piece as you perceive 
your adversary advances pieces upon it ; and if you can, let 
them be of less consideration than those he attacks with. If 
you find that you cannot well support your piece, see if by 
assailing one of his that is better, or as good, you cannot 
thereby save yours. 

9. Avoid making an attack unless well prepared for it, for 
you open thereby your adversary's game, and make him ready 
prepared to pour in a strong attack upon you when your weak 
one is over. 

10. Never play any man till you have examined whether 
you are free from danger by your enemy's last move : nor 
offer to commence an attack till you have considered what in- 
jury he would be able to do you by his next move, in conse- 
quence of yours, that you may frustrate his designs, if hurt- 
ful, before it is too late. 

11. When your attack is prosperous, never be diverted 
522 



CHESS. 139 

from following up your scheme (if possible) on to giving him 
mate, by taking any piece, or other advantage, your adver- 
sary may purposely throw in your way, with this intention, 
that by your taking that bait he might gain a move that 
would make your design prove abortive. 

12. When you are pursuing a well-conceived attack, but 
judge it necessary to force your way through your adversary's 
defence with the loss of a few pieces ; if, upon reckoning as 
many moves forward as you can, you see a prospect of suc- 
cess, rush on boldly, and sacrifice a piece or two to achieve 
your object : these bold attempts make the finest games. 

13. Never let your queen so stand before your king, as that 
your adversary by bringing a rook or a bishop, might check 
your king, if she was not there, for you hardly have a chance 
to save her. 

14. Let not your adversary's knight (particularly if duly 
guarded) come to check your king and queen, or your king 
and rook, or your queen and rook, or your two rooks at the 
same time : for in the first two cases, the king being com- 
pelled to go out of check, the queen or the rook must be lost : 
and in the last two cases, a rook must be lost, at best, for a 
worse piece. 

15. Be careful that no guarded pawn of your adversary's 
fork two of your pieces. 

16. When the kings have castled on different sides of the 
board, the enemy must advance upon the other king the 
pawns he has on that side of the board, taking care to bring 
up his pieces, especially his queen and rooks, to support 
them : and the king that has castled is not to stir his three 
pawns till compelled to it. 

17. Endeavour to have a move as it were in ambuscade, 
in playing the game : that is, place the queen, bishop, or 
rook, behind a pawn, or a piece, in such a way, as that upon 
playing that pawn, or piece, you discover a check upon your 
adversary's king, and thus get a piece, or some other advan- 
tage by it. 

18. Never protect an inferior piece with a better, if you 
can do it with a pawn, because that better piece may in such 
a case be, as it were, out of play ; on the same account, you 
ought not to guard a pawn with a piece, if you have it in your 
power to guard it with a pawn. 

523 



140 CHESS. 

19. A pawn passed, and well supported, frequently costs 
the adversary a piece. And if you play to win the game 
only, whenever you hav e gained a pawn, or any other advan- 
tage, and are not in danger of losing the move thereby, make 
as frequent exchanges of pieces as possible. 

20. If you have three pawns each upon the board, and no 
piece, and you have one of your pawns on one side of the 
board, and the other two on the opposite, and your adver- 
sary's three pawns also are opposite to your two, march with 
your king as soon as possible, to take his pawns : and if he 
tries with his king to protect them, go on to the queen with 
your single pawn, and if he goes to prevent it, take his pawns, 
and push the others to the queen. 

21. Toward the end of a game, each party having only 
three or four pawns on opposite sides of the board, the kings 
should endeavour to gain the move, in order to win the game. 
For instance, if you bring your king opposed to your adver- 
sary's king, with only one square between you, you will have 
gained the move. 

22. When your adversary has his king and one pawn on 
the board, and you have your king only, you cannot lose that 
game, if you can bring your king to be opposite to your ad- 
versary's when he is directly either before or on one side of 
his pawn, and there is only one square between the kings. 

23. When your adversary has a bishop and one pawn on 
the rook's line, and bishop is not of the colour that commands 
the square his pawn is going to, and you have only king, if 
you can get into that corner, that game cannot be lost, but 
may be won by a stale. 

24. When the game is to your disadvantage, having only 
your queen left in play, and your king is in the position of 
stale-mate, keep giving check to your adversary's king taking 
especial care not to check him where he can interpose any of 
his pieces that make the stale ; you will at last force him, by 
so doing, to take your queen, and then you conquer by being 
in a stale-mate. (See p. 520.) 

25. Never cover a check with a piece that a pawn pushed 
upon it may take, for fear of only getting that pawn for it. 

26. Always be careful that your adversary's king has a 
move : therefore do not crowd him up with your pieces, for 
fear you inadvertantly give stale-mate. 

524 



CHESS. 141 



EXPLANATORY OBSERVATIONS ON SOME OF THE PRECEDING 

RULES. 

1. Whether it is the open or the close game you play, be 
sure bring out all your pieces into play before you commence 
the assault ; for if you do not, and your adversary does, you 
will attack or be attacked always disadvantageously ; this is 
so decided, that you had better forego a benefit than deviate 
from it, and no one will ever play well at this game, who does 
not put this rule strictly in practice. It must not be con- 
cluded that these preparatory moves are useless, because you 
receive not an immediate success from them ; they are equally 
important as it is at Whist to deal thirteen cards round before 
play. With a view of bringing out your pieces properly, 
push on your pawns first, and support them with your pieces, 
and you will receive this advantage from it, that your game 
will not be choked. By this I mean, that all your pieces will 
be at liberty to play and assist each other, and thus co-ope- 
rate towards completing your purpose ; and this may be far- 
ther observed, that, either in your attack or defence, you 
bring them out so as not to be driven back again. 

2. When you have brought out your pieces, which you 
will have done very well, if you have your choice on which 
side to castle, (which I would always recommend to do) you 
should then stop and consider thoroughly your own and your 
adversary's game, and from his situation, and noticing where 
he is weakest, you should not only make your decision where 
to castle, but also where to begin your attack ; and it is cer- 
tainly clear you cannot do it in a better place than where you 
are strongest, and your adversary weakest. By this mode, it 
is very probable that you will be able to break through your 
adversary's game, in which contest some pieces must of course 
be exchanged. But now rest awhile, and survey both games 
attentively, and do not let your impetuosity hurry you away 
with this first success ; and my advice to you in this critical 
juncture (especially if you still find your enemy pretty strong) 
is to rally your men again, and put them in good order for a 
second or third attack, if requisite, still keeping your men 
close and well connected together, so as to be of use to each 
other : for want of this method, and a little coolness, I have 

525 



142 CHESS. 

often known an almost sure victory snatched out of a player's 
hands, and a total overthrow the consequence. But if, after 
all, you cannot penetrate so far as to win the game, never- 
theless, by observing these rules, you may still be sure of 
having a well-disposed game. 

3. And now that I am arrived at the last period of the 
game, which abounds also with difficulties and niceties, it 
must be remarked, where your pawns are stroDgest, most 
united together, and nearest to queen, you must likewise bear 
in mind how your adversary's pawns are disposed, and their 
degree of preferment, and compare these things together; and 
if you find you can get to queen before him, you must pro- 
ceed without hesitation ; if not, you must hasten on with 
your king to prevent him. I speak now, as supposing the 
noblemen to be gone : if not, they are to attend your pawns 
and likewise to hinder your adversary from going to queen. 

SOME OTHER GENERAL RULES. 

1. Do not be over cautious about losing a rook for an in- 
ferior piece : although a rook is better than any other, ex- 
cept the queen, yet it does not often come into play, so as to 
operate, until the end of the game j and therefore it often 
turns out that it is better to have a less good piece in play 
than a better out. 

2. When you have moved a piece, so that your adversary 
drives you away with a pawn, you may be sure (generally 
speaking) that it is a bad move, your enemy gaining that 
double advantage over you of advancing himself, and making 
you retire ; I think this merits attention ; for although be- 
tween equal and good players the first move may not be 
much, yet the loss of one or two more, after the first, makes 
the game almost irretrievable. Also, if you defend and can 
recover the move, or the attack, (for they both go together,) 
you are in a fair way of winning. 

3. If you make such a move as that, having liberty to play 
again, you can make nothing of it, take it for granted, it is 
an exceeding bad one ; for in this nice game every move is 
important. 

4. If your game is such, that you have scarcely any thing 
to play, it is your own fault, either for having brought out 

526 



CHESS. 143 

jour pieces wrong, or, which is worse, net at all ; for had they 
been brought out right, you must have sufficient variety to 
play. 

5. Do not be too cautious of doubling a pawn ; three pawns 
together are strong, but four, that make a square, with the 
help of other pieces, well managed, create an invincible 
strength, and in time of need may probably produce you a 
queen : on the other hand, two pawns, with an interval be- 
tween, are no better than one; and if, carelessly, you should 
have three over each other in a line, your game cannot be in 
a worse plight; examine this on the table, and the truth will 
be self-evident. You are therefore to keep your pawns closely 
cemented and well connected together ; and it must be great 
strength on your adversary's side that can overpower them. 

6. When a piece is so attacked as that you cannot save it, 
give it up, and bestow your thoughts how to annoy your 
enemy elsewhere, while he is taking it; for it frequently 
occurs, that while your adversary is running madly after a 
piece, you either get a pawn or two, or such a situation as 
ends in his discomfiture. 

7. Supposing your queen and another piece are attacked at 
the same time, and by removing your queen you must lose 
your piece ; in this situation, if you can get two pieces in 
exchange for your queen, you should rather do it than retire ; 
for it is the difference of three pieces, which is more than the 
value of a queen ; besides that, you keep your game entire, 
and preserve your situation, which very often is better than a 
piece ; nay, rather than retire, I would give my queen for a 
piece, and a pawn or two, nay, almost for what I can get ; for 
observe this one thing, among good players, (to convince you 
this advice is not bad,) that when the attack and defence is 
well formed, and every thing prepared for the storm, if he 
that plays first is obliged by the act of the person that defends 
to retire, it generally ends in the loss of the game of the 
attacked side. 

8. Do not aim at changing without sufficient reason ; it is 
so far from being right, that a good player will take this 
advantage of it, that he will spoil your situation, and of 
course mend his own ; but it is quite right in these following 
cases; when you are strongest especially by a piece, then 
every time you change your advantage is increasing ; this is 

527 



144 CHESS. 

so plain, it requires no argument. Again, when you have 
played a piece, and your adversary opposes one to you, change 
directly, for it is clear he wants to remove you ; prevent him, 
therefore, and do not lose the move. 

9. Cast up your game every now and then, make a balance, 
and then take your measures accordingly. 

10. At the conclusion of the game especially, remember 
your king is a capital piece, and do not let him be idle ; it is 
by his means, generally, you get the move and the victory. 

11. Notice this also, that as the queen, rook, and bishop, 
operate at a distance, it may not always be necessary in your 
attack to have them near your adversary's king : they do bet- 
ter at a distance, cannot be driven away, and prevent a stale- 
mate. 

12. When a piece presents that you can take, and that 
cannot escape you, avoid being in too great a hurry j see that 
there is not a better move elsewhere, and take it at your 
leisure. 

13. To take your adversary's pawn with your king is not 
always right, for it very often turns out to be a safeguard and 
protection to your king. 

14. If you can take a man with different pieces, do it not 
hastily with the first that occurs, but consider thoroughly 
with which you had best take it. 



SELECT GAMES AT CHESS. 

THE FIRST GAME; 

Beginning with white. Illustrated by observations on the most 
material moves ; and two back games ; one commencing at 
the \2thy and the second at the S7th move. 

1. White. The king's pawn two steps. 
Black. The same. 

2. W. The king's bishop at his queen's bishop's 4th 

square. 
B. The same. 
8. W. The queen's bishop's pawn one move. 

B. The king's knight at his bishop's 3d square. 
528 



CHESS. 145 

4. W. The queen's pawn two moves. (a) 
B. The pawn takes it. 

5. W. The pawn retakes the pawn. (6) 

B. The king's bishop at his queen's knight's 3d 
square, (c) 

6. W. The queen's knight at his bishop's 3d square. 
B. The king castles. 

7. W. The king's knight at his king's 2d square. (d) 
B. The queen's bishop's pawn one move. 

8. W The king's bishop at his queen's 3d square. (e) 
B The queen's pawn two moves. 

9. W. The king's pawn one move. 

B. The king's knight at his king's square. 

10. W. The queen's bishop at his king's 3d square. 
B. The king's bishop's pawn one move.(/) 

11. W. The queen at her 2d square.(^) 

(a) This pawn is pla} r ed two moves for important reasons : 1st, to hinder 
tl»e adversary's king's bishop from playing upon your king's bishop's 
pawn ; 2d, to place the strength of your pawns in the middle of the board ; 
of great consequence to achieve the making of your queen. 

(6) When the game is in this situation, viz. one of your pawns at your 
king's, and another at your queen's 4th square, do not push either of thera 
before your adversary proposes to change one for the other ; in such cas* 
advance the attacked pawn. Pawns, when sustained in a front line, ob 
struct very much the adversary's pieces from entering in our game, or taking 
a desirable post. 

(c) If he gives check with his bishop instead of withdrawing it, you are 
to cover the check with your bishop in order to retake his bishop with your 
knight; in case he takes yours, your knight will then defend your king's 
pawn, otherwise defenceless. But perhaps he may not choose to take your 
bishop, because a good player endeavours to retain his king's bishop as long 
as possible. 

(d) You should not play your knights at your bishop's 3d square before 
the bishop's pawn has moved two steps, because the motion of the pawn is 
hindered by the knight. 

(e) Your bishop retires to avoid being attacked by the black queen's 
pawn, which would force you to take that pawn with yours ; and thus de 
crease the strength of your game, spoiling entirely the project already men- 
tioned, in the first and 2d observations. 

(f) He plays this to give an opening to his king's rook, which cannot be 
avoided, whether you take his pawn or not. 

(g) If you should take the pawn, in lieu of playing your queen, you 
would commit a great error, for your royal pawn would then lose its line; 
whereas if your king's pawn is taken by the adversary, that of your queen 
supplies the place, and you may sustaiu it with tljat of your king's bishop , 
these two pawns will evidently win the game, because they can now no 
more be parted without the loss of the piece, or one of them will make a 
queen, ps will be seen in the end. Besides, it is of no little consequence to 
play your queen in that place, and for two reasons : 1st, to support and 

46 529 



146 CHESS. 

B. The king's bishop's pawn takes the pawn.(^) 

12. W. The queen's pawn retakes it. 

B. The queen's bishop at his king's 3d square.(i) 

13. W. The king's knight at his king's bishop's 4th 

square. (&) 
B. The queen at her king's 2d square. 

14. W. The queen's bishop takes the black bishop. (7) 
B. The pawn takes the white queen's bishop. 

15. W. The king castles with his rook.(m) 

B. The queen's knight at his queen's 2d square. 

16. W. The knight takes the black bishop. 
B. The queen takes the knight. 

17. W. The king's bishop's pawn two steps. 

B. The king's knight at his queen's bishop's 2d 
square. 
8. W. The queen's rook at its king's place. 
B. The king's knight's pawn one move.(?i) 
19. W. The king's rook's pawn one move.(o) 

Jefend your king's bishop's pawn ; and 2d, to sustain your queen's bishop 
which, being taken, would oblige you to retake his bishop with the above 
mentioned last pawn ; and thus your best pawns would have been totally 
divided, and the game lost. 

(A) He takes the pawn in order to give an opening to his king's rook. 

(i) He plays this bishop to protect his queen's pawn, with a view after- 
ward to push that of his queen's bishop. 

N. B. He might have taken your bishop, but he rather chooses to let you 
take his, to clear a way for his queen's rook, though his knight's pawn is 
doubled by it ; you are again to take notice, that a double pawn is no way 
disadvantageous when surrounded by three or four others. However, this 
is the subject of a back game beginning from this 12th move ; the black 
bishop there taking your bishop, shows, that playing well on both sides it 
makes no alteration in the case. The king's pawn, together with the 
queen's, or the king's pawn, well played, and well supported, must certainly 
win the game. 

(k) Your king's pawn not being in danger, your knight attacks his bishop, 
in order to take or have it removed. 

(I) It is always unsafe to let the adversary's king's bishop batter the lino 
of your king's bishop's pawn ; and as it is likewise the most dangerous 
piece to form an attack, it is not only necessary to attack him at times by 
your queen's bishop, but you must get rid of that piece as soon as a con- 
venient opportunity presents. 

(to) Castle on the king's side, with a view to strengthen and protect your 
king's bishop's pawn, which advance two step3 as soon as your king's pa-vn 
is attacked. 

(») He is forced to play this pawn, to deter you from pushing your king's 
bishop's pawn upon his queen. 

(o) This move is made to concentrate all your pawns together, and push 
them afterward with vigour. 

530 



CHESS. 147 

B. The queen's pawn one move. 

20. W. The knight at his king's 4th square. 
B. The king's rook's pawn one move.(p) 

21. W. The queen's knight's pawn one move. 
B. The queen's rook's pawn one move. 

22. W. The king's knight's pawn two steps. 

B. The king's knight at his queen's 4th square. 

23. W. The knight at his king's knight's 3d square.^) 

B. The king's knight at the white king's 3d square. (r) 

24. W. The queen's rook takes the knight. 
B. The pawn takes the rook. 

95. W. The queen takes the pawn. 

B. The queen's rook takes the pawn of the opposite 
rook. 

26. W. The rook at his king's place, (s) 

B. The queen takes the white queen's knight's pawn. 

27. W. The queen at her king's 4th square. 
B. The queen at her king's 3d square.(f) 

28. W. The king's bishop's pawn one move. 
B. The pawn takes it. 

29. W. The pawn takes again. (u) 

B. The queen at her 4th square. (x) 

30. W. The queen takes the queen. 
B. The pawn takes the queen. 

31. W. The bishop takes the pawn in his way. 
B. The knight at his 3d square. 

32. W. The king's bishop's pawn one move.(y) 

(p) He plays this pawn to hinder your knight from entering in his game, 
and forcing his queen to remove ; else your pawns would have an open way. 

(q) You should play this knight in order to push your king's bishop's 
pawn next ; it will be then strengthened by three pieces, the bishop, the 
rook, and the knight. 

(r) He plays this knight to subvert your scheme by breaking the strength 
of your pawns, by pushing his king's knight's pawn ; but baulk his design 
by changing your rook for his knight. 

(s) Play your rook to protect your king's pawn, which else would remain 
in the lurch when you push your king's bishop's pawn. 

(0 The queen returns to prevent the check-mate. 

(«) You would run the risk of losing the game, were you not to take with 
your pawn. 

(x) He offers to change queens in order to frustrate your plan of giving 
him check-mate with your queen and bishop. 

(y) When your bishop runs upon white, put your pawn always upon 
black, because then your bishop serves to drive away your adversary's 
king or rook when between your pawns ; and vice verm, when your bishop 
runs black, then you have your pawns upon white. 

531 



148 CHESS. 

B. The queen's rook at the white queen's knight's 2d 
square. 

33. W. The bishop at his queen's 3d square 
B. The king at his bishop's 2d square. 

34. "W. The bishop at the black king's bishop's 4th square. 
B. The knight at the white queen's bishop's 4th square. 

35. W. The knight at the black king's rook's 4th square. 
B. The king's rook gives check. 

36. W. The bishop covers the check. 

B. The knight at the white queen's 2d square. 

37. W. The king's pawn gives check. 

B. The king at his knight's 3d square. (z) 

38. W. The king's bishop's pawn one move. 
B. The rook at its king's bishop's square. 

39. W. The knight gives check at the 4th square of his 

king's bishop. 
B. 'The king at his knight's 2d square. 

40. W. The bishop at the black king's rook's 4th square. 
B. Plays any where, the white pushes to queen. 



FIRST BACK GAME; 
From the twelfth move. 

12. W. The queen's pawn retakes it. 

B. The king's bishop takes the white queen's bishop. 

13. W. The queen takes the bishop. 

B. The queen's bishop at his king's 3d square. 

14. W. The king's knight at his king's bishop's 4th square 
B. The queen at her king's 2d square. 

15. W. The knight takes the bishop. 
B. The queen takes the knight. 

16. W. The king castles with his rook. 

B. The queen's knight at his queen's 2d square. 
17 W. The king's bishop's pawn two moves. 
B. The king's knight's pawn one move. 

(•) As his king may retire to his bishop's square, the second back game 
will inform you now to act in this case. 
532 



vthess. 149 

18. W. The king's rook's pawn one move. 
B. The king's knight at his 2d square. 

19. W. The king's knight's pawn two steps. 
B. The queen's bishop's pawn one move. 

20. W. The knight at his king's 2d square. 
B. The queen's pawn one move. 

21. W. The queen at her 2d square. 

B. The queen's knight at his 3d square. 

22. W. The knight at his king's knight's 3d square. 
B. The queen's knight at his queen's 4th square. 

23. W The queen's rook at its king's square. 

B. The queen's knight at the white king's 3d square. 

24. W The rook takes the knight. 
B. The pawn takes the rook. 

25. W The queen takes the pawn. 

B. The queen takes the white queen's rook's pawn. 

26. W. The king's bishop's pawn one move. 
B. The queen takes the pawn. 

27. W. The king's bishop's pawn one jnove. 
B. The knight at his king's square. 

28. "W. The king's knight's pawn one move. 

B. The queen at the white queen's 4th square. 
29 W. The queen takes the queen. 
B. The pawn takes the queen. 

30. W. The king's pawn one move. 

B. The knight at his queen's 3d square. 

31. W. The knight at his king's 4th square. 

B. The knight at his king's bishop's 4th square. 

32. W. The rook takes the knight 
B. The pawn takes the rook. 

33. W. The knight at the black queen's 3d square 

B. The king's bishops pawn one move anywhere, the 
game being lost. 

34. "vT. The king's pawn one move. 

B. The king's rook at its queen's knighf s square. 

35. W. The bishop gives check. 

B. The king retires, having but one place. 

36. W. The knight gives check. 
B. The king removes. 

37. W. The knight at the black queen's square discovering 

check. 

46* 533 






150 CHESS. 

B. The king moves where he can. 
38. W. The king's pawn making a queen, gives checkmate 
at the same time. 



SECOND BACK GAME; 

Commencing from the thirty -seventh move. 

37. "W. The king's pawn gives check. 
B. The king at his bishop's square. 

38. W. The rook at its queen's rook's square. 

B. The rook gives check at the white queen's knight's 
square. 

39. W. The rook takes the rook. 

B. The knight retakes the rook. 

40. W. The king at his rook's 2d square. 

B. The knight at the white queen's bishop's third 
square. 

41. W. The knight^at the king's bishop's fourth square. 
B. The knight at the white king's 4th square. 

42. "W. The knight takes the pawn. 

B. The rook at its king's knight's 4th square. 

43. W. The king's pawn one move, and gives check. 
B. The king at his bishop's 2d square. 

44. "W. The bishop gives check at the black king's third 

square. 
B. The king takes the bishop. 

45. W. The king's pawn makes a queen, and wins the 

game. 

GAME THE SECOND; 

Commencing with the black ; wherein is seen that playing the 
king's knight the second move, is wrong play, because it 
gives the advantage of the attack to the adversary. The 
learner will see by these three different back games, that a 
good attack keeps the adversary always embarrassed. 

1. B. The king's pawn two steps. 
W. The same. 

2. B. The king's knight at his bishop's 3d square. 
534 



CHESS. 151 

W. The queen's pawn one move. 
3. B. The king's bishop at the queen's bishop's fourth 
square. 

W. The king's bishop's pawn two moves.(a) 
4 B. The queen's pawn one move. 

W. The queen's bishop's pawn one move. 

5. B. The king's pawn takes the pawn. (6) 
W. The queen's bishop retakes the pawn. 

6. B. The queen's bishop at the white king's knight'a 

4th square. 
W. The king's knight 'at his bishop's 3d square. (c) 

7. B. The queen's knight at his queen's 2d square. 
W. The queen's pawn one move. 

8. B. The bishop retires. 

W. The king's bishop at his queen's 3d square.(cf) 

9. B. The queen at her king's 2d square. 
W. The same. 

10. B. The king castles with his rook.(e) 

(«) Had your adversary played anything else, this was still your best 
move, it being highly advantageous to change your king's bishop's pawn 
for his royal pawn, because your king and queen's pawns place themselves 
in the middle of the chess board, and are thus enabled to stop all the pro- 
gress of your adversary's pieces; besides this, you gain the attack by his 
having played his king's knight at the second move. You have also ano- 
ther advantage by losing your king's bishop's pawn for his king's pawn: 
viz. when you do castle with your king's rook the same rock finds itself 
instantly free and fit for action. This will be made clear by the first back 
game, the third move. 

(b) Observe, if he refuses taking your pawn, leave it exposed in the 
same situation and place; unless he should choose to castle with his king's 
rook, in such case you must undoubtedly push that pawn forwards, in 
order to attack his king with all the pawns of your right wing. The effect 
will be best understood by a second back game, beginning from this fifth 
move. Take notice again, as a general rule, not easily to push on the 
pawns either of your right or left wings before your adversary's king has 
castled, otherwise he will retire where your pawns are less strong or less 
advanced. 

(c) If he takes your knight, you must take his with your pawn, which 
being joined to his, increases their strength. 

{(1) This is the best square your king's bishop can choose, except the 
fourth of his queen's bishop, particularly when vou have the attack, and it 
is not in your adversary's power to hinder that bishop from playing on his 
king's bishop's pawn. 

(e) Had he castled on his queen's side, then it would have been your 
game to castle on your king's side, that you might attack him more conve- 
niently with your pawns on the left. Be cautious in pushing your pawns 
forward till they are well sustained both by one another, and also by your 
pieces. The form of this attack at your left will be best understood by ■ 
third back game, commencing from this teuth move. 

535 



152 CHESS. 

W. The queen's knight at his queen's 2d square. 
11 B. The king's knight at his rook's 4th square. (/) 
W. The queen at her king's 3d square. 

12. B. The king's knight takes the bishop. (g) 
W. The queen retakes the knight. 

13. B. The queen's bishop takes the knight.(*Y) 
W. The pawn retakes the bishop. 

14. B. The king's bishop's pawn two moves. 

W. The queen at her king's knight's 3d square. 

15. B. The pawn takes the pawn. 
W. The bishop's pawn retakes it. 

16. B. The king's rook at its king's bishop's 3d square. (t'j 
W. The king's rook's pawn two steps. (A:) 

17. B. The queen's rook at its king's bishop's square. 
W. The king castles with his queen's rook. 

18. B. The queen's bishop's pawn two steps. 
W. The king's pawn one step. (7) 

(/) He plays this knight to make room for his king's bishop's pawn, in 
order to advance it two steps, and thus to break the chain of your pawns. 

jg) Had he pushed his king's bishop's pawn instead of taking your bishop, 
in that case you must have attacked his queen with your queen's bishop, 
and pushed your king's rook's pawn the next move upon his bishop, to 
force him to take your knight : in which case your best game is to retak« 
his bishop with your pawn, in order to support your royal pawn, and re- 
place it in case it be taken. 

(h) If he did not take your knight, his bishop would remain imprisoned 
by your pawns, or he would lose at least three moves to set him at liberty. 

(») He plays this rook either with an intention to double it, or remove 
your queen. 

(k) You push this pawn two steps to give your queen more room, who, 
being attacked, can retire behind this pawn, and then remain, menacing 
her adversary's king's rook's pawn Your pawn advancing afterward will 
become dangerous to your adversary's king. • 

(/) This move is most difficult to comprehend as well as to explain. You 
are to observe, when you find yourself witl a chain of pawns succeeding 
one another upon one and the same colour .d squares, the pawn who has 
the van must not be abandoned, but shouJi strive to keep his post. Here 
again observe, that your king's pawn beirgnot in the line of his comrades, 
your adversary has pushed his queen's 1 ishop's pawn two steps, for two 
reasons. The first, to engage you to pi sh that of your queen forwards, 
which in this case would be always stop »ed by that of his queen, and thus 
leaving behind that of your king, wou d render it totally useless. The 
second is to hinder your king's bishop from battering his king's rook's 
pawn: it is best, therefore, to push rear king's pawn upon his rook and 
lose it ; because then your adversary, by taking it, opens a free passage to 
your queen's pawn, which you are to advance immediately, and support, 
in case of need, with your other pawns, with a view to make a queen with 
it, or draw some other valuable advantage to win the game. His queen's 
pawn (now become his king's apparently has the same advantage of having 

536 



CHESS. 153 

19. B. The queen's pawn takes the pawn. 
W. The queen's pawn one move. 

20. B. The bishop at his queen's bishop's 2d square. 
W. The knight at his king's 4th square. (m) 

21. B. The king's rook at the white king's bishop's third 

square. 
W. The queen at her king's knight's 2d square. 

22. B. The queen at her king's bishop's 2d square. (w) 
W. The knight at the black king's knight's 4th square. 

23. B. The queen gives check. 

W. The king at his queen's knight's square. 

24. B. The rook takes the bishop. (V) 
W. The rook retakes the rook. 

25. B. The queen at her king's bishop's 4th square. 
W. The queen at her king's 4th square.(p) 

26. B. The queen takes the queen. 
W. The knight takes the queen. 

°-7. B. The rook at the white king's bishop's fourth square 
W. The knight at the black king's knight's fourth 
square. 

28. B. The queen's bishop's pawn one move. 

W. The queen's rook at her king's knight's 3d square, 

29. B. The knight at his queen's bishop's 4th square. 
W. The knight at the black king's 3d square. 

30. B. The knight takes the knight. 

no opposition from your pawn's to make a queen : the difference, however, 
is great, because his pawn being entirely parted from his comrades, will 
always be in danger in his road, by a multitude of your pieces all waging 
war against it. 

(to) In order to stop his king's pawn, it became necessary to play that 
knight: the more, because this very pawn, in its present situation, blocks 
up the passage of his own bishop, and even of his knight. 

(n) He play3 his queen to give check next: but if he had played his 
king's rook's pawn to frustrate the attack of your knight, you must then 
have attacked his bishop and his queen with your queen's pawn; hence he 
would have been forced to take your pawn, and you should have retaken 
his bishop with your knight, which he could not have taken with his queen, 
because she would have been lost by a discovered check with your bishop. 

(o) He takes your king's bishop: in the first place, to save his king's 
rook's pawn, and because your bishop proves more inconvenient to him 
than any other of your pieces : and secondly, to put his queen upon the 
rook that covers your king. 

(p) Having the advantage of a rook against a bishop at the end of a 
game, it is your interest to change queens; because his queen being at pre- 
sent troublesome in the post where he just played it, you compel him to 
change, which he cannot avoid, if he will save his being check mate. 

537 



154 CHESS. 

W. The pawn retakes the knight. 
31 B. The rook at its king's bishop's 3d square. 

W. The king's rook at its queen's square. 
32. B. The rook takes the pawn. 

W. The king's rook at the black queen's 2d square, and 
must win the game.(j.) 



FIRST BACK GAME; 
From the third move. 

3. B. The queen's pawn two steps. 

W. The king's bishop's pawn two steps. 

4. B. The queen's pawn takes the pawn. (a) 
W. The king's bishop's pawn takes the pawn. 

5. B. The king's knight at the white king's knight's 4th 

square. 
W. The queen's pawn one step. 

6. B. The king's bishop's pawn two steps. 

W. The king's bishop at his queen's bishop's fourth 
square. 

7. B. The queen's bishop's pawn two steps. 
W. The queen's bishop's pawn one step. 

8. B. The queen's knight at his bishop's 2d square. 
W. The king's knight at his king's 2d square 

9. B. The king's rook's pawn two steps. (6) 
W. The king's rook's pawn one move. 

10. B. The king's knight at his rook's 3d square. 
"W* The king castles. 

11. B. The king's knight at his rook's 4th square. 
W. The bishop gives check. 

12. B. The bishop covers the check. 

W. The bishop takes the black bishop. 

13. B. The queen takes the bishop. 

(<7) Anything he could have played could not hinder you from doubling 
your rooks, unless he had sacrificed his bishop, or let you make a queen 
with your pawn; thus he loses the game all ways. 

(a) If he had taken your king's bishop's pawn in lieu of this, you must 
have pushed your king's pawn upon his knight, and his pawn you must 
afterward have retaken with your queen's bishop. 

(b) He pushes this pawn two steps, avoiding having a double pawn upon 
his king's rook's line, which by pushing your king's rook's pawn upon his 
knight, he had no chance of escape, and you taking it afterward with your 
queen's bishop, would have given him a bad gam© 

538 



ciiess. 155 

W. The queen's pawn one move. 

14. B. The queen's bishop's pawn one move.(c) 
W. The queen's knight's pawn two moves. 

15. B The queen's bishop's pawn takes it by passing by 
W. The rook's pawn retakes the pawn. 

16. B. The queen's knight's pawn one move. 

Vv 7 . The" queen's bishop at his king's 3d square. 

17. B. The bishop at his king's 2d square. 

W. The king's knight at his king's bishop's 4th 
square, (d) 
18 B. The king's knight at his own square. 

W. The king's knight at the black king's knight's 3d 
square. 

19. B. The king's rook at his 2d square. 
W. The king's pawn one move. 

20. B. The queen at her knight's 2d square. 
W. The queen's pawn one move. 

21. B. The king's bishop at his 3d square. 
W. The king's rook takes the pawn. 

22. B. The king castles. 

W. The king's rook takes the black queen's knight. 

23. B. The queen's pawn takes the rook. 
W. The queen's rook takes the pawn. 

24. B. The queen's rook's pawn one mov*». 
W. The rook gives check. 

25. B. The king retires. 

W. The rook at the black queen's bishop's 2d square. 

26. B. The queen at her knight's 4th sqaare. 

W. The queen's knight at his rook's 4th square 

27. B. The queen at her king's bishop's 4th squart 
W. The queen's knight at her bishop's 4th square. 

28. B. The queen takes the knight. 
W. The bishop gives check. 

29. B. The king retires where he can. 
W. The knight gives check-mate. 

(c) He plays in this manner to cut the communication of your pawns; 
but you escape it by pushing immediately your queen's knight's pawn upon 
his knight, which retreat forces your adversary to take the pawn by the 
way. This joins your pawns again, and makes them invincible. 

(a) This knight gives the mortal blow to this game, because he has at 
present all your adversary's pieces in some measure locked up, till you can 
re the check-mate 

539 



156 CHESS. 

SECOND BACK GAME; 

From the fifth move. 

5. B. The king castles. 

W. The king's bishop's pawn one move. 

6. B. The queen's pawn one move. 

"W. The queen at her king's bishop's 3d square. 

7. B. The queen's pawn takes the pawn. 
W. The queen's pawn retakes the pawn. 

8. B. The queen's rook's pawn two moves. 
W. The king's knight's pawn two moves. 

9. B. The queen at her 3d square. 

W. The king's knight's pawn one move. 

10. B. The king's knight at his king's square. 

\V. The king's bishop at his queen's bishop's 4th 
square. 

11. B. The queen's bishop's pawn one move. 

W. The queen at the black king's rook's 4th square. 

12. B. The queen's knight's pawn two steps. 
W. The king's knight's pawn one move. 

13. B. The king's rook's pawn one move. 

W. The bishop takes the king's bishop's pawn, and 
gives check. 

14. B. The king at the rook's square. 

W. The queen's bishop takes the black king's rook's 
pawn. 

15. B. The king's knight at his bishop's 3d square. 

W. The queen being at her king's rook's 5th square, 
wins the game on removing the bishop. 



MO 



CHESS. 157 

TIIIRD BACK GAME J 
From the tenth move. 

10. B. The bishop castles on his queen's side. 
W. The king castles on his own side. 

11. B. The king's rooks pawn one move. 

W. The queen's knight at his queen's 2d square. 

12. B. The king's knight's pawn two steps. 

W. The queen's bishop ac his king's 3d square. 

13. B. The queen's rook at his king's knight's square. 
W. The queen's knight's pawn two steps. 

14. II. The king's rook's pawn one move. 

W. The queen's rooks pawn two moves. (a) 

15. B. The bishop takes the knight. 
W. The queen takes the bishop. 

16. B. The king's knight's pawn one move. 
W. The queen at her king's 2d square. 

17. B. The queen's bishop's pawn one step. 
W. The queen's rooks pawn one step. 

J 8. B. The bishop at his queen's bishop's 2d square 
W. The queen's bishop's pawn one move. 

19. B. The king's rook's pawn one move. 

W. The king's rook at its queen's knight's square. 

20. B. The king's rook at its 4th square. 
W. The queen's bishop's pawn one move. 

21. B. The queen's pawn one move. 
W. The king's pawn one move. 

22. B. The king's knight at his king's square. 
W* The queen's knight's pawn one move. 

23. B. The pawn takes the pawn. 

W. The king's rook retakes the pawn. 

24. B. The queen's rook's pawn one move. 

W. The kiug's rook at its queen's knight's 4th square. 

(a) When the king is behind two or three pawns, and the adversary fall* 
upon them in order to artack your king, you must avoid pushing any of 
those pawns till forced ; as it would have been very indifferent .policy to 
have pushed your king's rook's pawn upon his bishop, because he would 
then have got the attack by taking your knight with his bishop, and would 
have got an opening upon your king by pushing his king's knight's pawn 
which would have lost you the game. 

4~ 541 



158 CHESS. 

25. B. The king's bishop's pawn one move. 

W. The king's bishop takes the queen's rook'p pawn. 

26. B. The pawn takes the bishop. 

W. The queen takes the pawn and gives check. 

27. B. The king retires. 

W. The queen gives check. 

28. B. The knight covers the check. 

W. The queen's rook's pawn one move. 

29. B. The king at his queen's 2d square. 

W. The queen takes the queen's pawn and gives 
check. 
80. B The king retires. 

W. The queen's rook's pawn one move, and by different 
ways wins the game. 



frtf 




BILLIARDS. 

Chapter I. — Of billiards in general — of tite btlliard 

TABLE OF THE INSTRUMENTS EMPLOYED IN THE GAME 

AND OF THE MANNER OF USING THEM. 

Billiards, like the greater number of games which are 
prevalent in modern Europe, is of French invention. Soon 
after the French, the Germans, the Dutch, and the Italians 
brought it into vogue throughout the Continent ; and in a few 
years afterwards it became a favourite diversion in England, 
particularly among persons of rank. The precise period of 
its introduction into this country is not known ; but, as it is 
mentioned by Shakspeare, the game must at least have been 
somewhat familiar to us in the sixteenth century. As it is 
replete with entertainment, and attended with that kind of 
moderate exercise, which renders it at the same time both 
agreeable and conducive to health, it will, in all probability, 
long remain in fashion. 

The game of billiards is played by two or more persons, 

543 



2 BILLIARDS. 

with ivory balls, upon a table, which in different countries is 
made of different shapes. In some parts of the Continent, a 
round or an oval form is most in use, in others, nearly a square 
one ; in this country the shape universally employed is the 
oblong, varying in size from six to twelve feet long, the width 
being always half its length. But the established table is 
twelve feet long by six wide, (supported on eight legs), the 
height three feet from the ground to the top of the cushion ; 
and this is the size adopted in all our public rooms. The 
frame should be made of old oak or mahogany, or some well 
seasoned wood, not given to warp, and the bed be of metal or 
slate, (in preference to either marble or oak), covered with 
fine green cloth, tightly fitted and perfectly smooth. The table 
should not be liable to the least vibration, and the bed be per- 
fectly horizontal, the accuracy of which may be tested by a 
spirit-level. The cushion, as it is called, is a raised edge or 
border, (generally two inches or a little less in depth), lined 
with a stuffed elastic pad,* and intersected by six netted 
pockets, (usually three inches and one eighth in the opening) 
four of which are situated at the four corners, and the other 
two midway in the sides. At the lower end of the table, two 
feet six inches from the end cushion, is a line technically 
termed the baulk line, in the middle of which is a semi-circle 
of ten inches radius, termed the striking point. From any 
part of this striking point the player is at liberty to commence 
the game, but he is not allowed to place his ball beyond tho 
area of the semi-circle. At the opposite or upper end of the 
table, and in its centre, at a distance of two feet six from the 
eud cushion, is a point called the spot, on which is placed the 
red ball, for the winning game ; and seventeen inches furthe* 
on, i. e., within thirteen inches of the cushion, is a second 

* The old mode of stuffing the cushion was with list or layers of fine 
cloth, the present is with India rubber, by means of which the elasticity is 
considerably increased. Both modes have their respective advocates, but 
the India rubber is generally preferred ; and now that what are called vul- 
canized India rubber cushions have been patented by Mr. Thurston, the 
former objection, that of their being sensibly affected by variations in the 
atmosphere, is removed. It appears, however, that scientific players are by 
no means unanimous as to the advantages of highly elastic cushions, or 
what are technically termed very fast tables. Mr. Mardon says, that the 
more elastic the cushion the more incorrect will be the angle, while Mr. 
¥entfield maintains that a little study of the variations occasioued by extra 
•lasticitv, is all that is required. 

544 



PRELIMINARY — THE TABLE, BALLS, &0 9 

spot for the red ball, in the winning and losing game, (the 
game now commonly played.) 

Two or three ivory balls is the usual number employed, 
(according to the game played) one red, the others white, 
and one of the latter marked with a small black spot byway 
of distinction. They vary in diameter from one inch and 
seven-eighths to two inches, (in proportion to the size of the 
pockets and height of the cushion,) and weigh from four 
ounces to four and a quarter, but those used together must 
be exactly uniform both in size and weight, and constructed 
with the utmost accuracy.* 

The instruments employed for the purpose of striking the 
bails are two ; the cue and the mace. The former of these 
is a long round stick, which should be made of fine, close- 
grained, well-seasoned ash, slightly conical in shape, being 
broad at one end, and at the other converging to a narrow, 
flattened or rounded point. The mace consists of a long 
slender rod, with a thick piece of mahogany or other wood 
affixed to it extremity, and adapted to it in such an angle, 
as to rest flat upon the table while the stick is held up to the 
shoulder in the act of striking. The under side of this is 
flat and smooth, in order that it may move with facility over 
the cloth, the upper side is concave, and the end to be opposed 
to the ball is plain and broad. 

Of these instruments, the cue is by far the most universally 
used. It possesses various advantages over the mace, and is 
invariably preferred by all good players ; indeed the mace is 
now scarcely ever used except by ladies. There is also a 
long cue, and a rest or jigger for strokes which are out of 
reach with the ordinary cue."j* " In the choice of a cue/' 

* Great nicety is required in making billiard-balls, as the centie of the 
ball must be the centre of gravity, and this it would not be unless the por 
tion of the tooth from which it is made contained the common centre (the 
heaviest part of the ivory.) The modes of testing the sphericity of a ball 
are by a steel gage, a hollow cone, or calliper-compasses. 

t The Advantages which the cue possesses over the mace, are undoubted. 
The cue is the only instrument in vogue abroad, and it is astonishing to 
what a degree of skill its management has in many instances been carried. 
Examples of this will daily present themselves to those who are much in 
the habit of frequenting the billiard rooms of our own country; but 1 think 
I have upon the whoie c een more instances of superior address among 
foreigners. [This is Mr. White's note, written before the time of Mr. Kent- 
field, whose prodigious achievements in this game surpass everything on 
record.] The keeper of a billiard room in Hamburgh, where perhaps th« 

47* 645 






4 BILLIARDS. 

says Mr. Kentfield, " much will depend *n the fancy of the 
player ; some prefer light, others heavy, cues ; some small, 
others those which are large at the point, and so on ; but the 
cue to be recommended should be four feet eight inches 
long,* of moderate weight, say from fourteen to sixteen 
ounces ; half an inch in diameter at the small end, and about 
one inch and a half at the butt. It should be formed of fine, 
straight, close-grained, well-seasoned ash, rather stiff, or with 
very little spring in it. [Mr. Mardon says, that a cue which 
has any spring in it should not be used.] The point is 
covered with leather to prevent its slipping from the ball in 
striking. Some players prefer double leathers, others single 
ones, the best players have generally decided in favour of the 
latter. Should, however, the former be selected, the under 
one should be very hard, and the top one soft. For pre- 
serving the cue such an arrangement is perhaps the best; it 
is also well adapted for certain strokes, but cannot be de- 
pended upon when the ball is to be struck at a distance. 
Soft sole leather or saddle flap is an excellent material for 
points, but for single points nothing perhaps is better than 
old harness or strap, provided the leather be not too old, 
which would render it hard and useless. It may be affixed 
with common glue, Indian glue, shell lac, or any other kinds 
of cement, taking care to avoid anything greasy/' 

game is played as much as in any other town in Europe, will at any time 

engage to make the straight hazard across two contiguous tables: that is, 
that he will strike the object bail from one table to the other, and hole it 
in any specified pocket of the latter. But the rao*t remarkable instance of 
this unusual dexterity, that his hitherto cou*e within my observation, oc- 
curred in an Italian, who frequented the billiard rooms at Paris, about the 
period of the revolution in 1789. I have frequently seen him place two 
balls in the middle of the table, parallel to each other, and venture an even 
bet that he would make either the winning or the losing hazard^ in any one 
of the six pockets; and this he usually performed with facility, upon the 
nature of the hazard, and the particular pocket being determined upon by 
the spectators. He had so great a facility of making what are called 
doublet hazards, (». «., hazards made after a reverberation of the ball from 
an opposite cushion,) that he has been known to hole the red ball in one of 
the upper holes, by playing at it from the striking point, thirty times, with 
out an intervening failure. 

* The length of the cue should in some degree be proportioned to the 
height of the player; if too short it will cramp the movement of his arm, 
if too long, it will give a fatiguing counterpoise, and so affect the stroke- 
Mr. Mardon prefers a cue four feet seven inches, but observes that the 
standard is considered four feet ten inches. Mr. Bedford, who exceed* the 
average stature, plays with a very short cue, viz., foui feet £ve» 

546 



PRELIMINARY — THE BRIDGE, CUE, &0. 6 

The first thing to be attended to is, The Bridge, or sup- 
port upon which the cue is to act. This is formed by the 
left hand of the player being placed firmly upon the table, 
about six inches from the ball to be struck, and drawn up 
until the hand rests only upon the wrist and points of the 
fingers ; the latter being bent up to such an angle, as to leave 
the palm considerable hollowed, at the same time that the 
thumb is elevated above the level of the knuckles, so as to 
form a furrow between it and the forefinger, for the cue to 
slide in. " Some make their bridge much too long, that is, 



Fig. 2 




lay their hand nearly flat, and are so apt to lose hazards 
which require force, and others spread their fingers too much, 
and thus are deficient in firmness. " And many players/' 
says Mr. Mardon, " press the thumb closely against the fore- 
finger ; but a bridge thus formed is contracted and imperfeet 
The thumb, well raised, should be separated from the fore- 
finger by half an inch, the thumb can then be lowered, 
should it be necessary to strike much below the centre." 
The next thing is to handle and adapt the cue in such a man- 
ner, as to render it pefectly free and easy in its motion. This 
consists in grasping it about four or five inches from the 
broad extremity with the right hand, with sufficient force to 
enable the striker to use an adequate strength in his stroke, 
and yet free enough to allow of a considerable extent of mo- 
tion ; and in applying the other extremity to the bridge, 
about six or eight inches from its point. The bridge being 
made, and the cue thus adapted to it, it only remains to strike 
the ball, which is to be done in the following manner. The point 
of the cue, [which should be rubbed over with a little chalk, 
or made rough with glass-paper, to prevent its slipping,] 
ought, in the first place, to be made accurately to approach 

547 



6 BILLARDS. 

the centre of the ball, which, as was before observed, should 
be rather more than half a foot from the hand. The cue 
should then be drawn four or more inches (Mr. K. says six, 
aud a Grerman writer says from six to ten) backwards, ac- 
cording to the strength required, slightly depressed towards 
the cloth, then gradually elevated till perfectly horizontal, 
and lastly forced against the bal:, so as to drive it onwards 
with more or less velocity, as occasion may require.* 'lhe 
stroke should be made freely from the shoulder, and not in a 
cramped manner from the elbow, and the arm should be 
parallel to the side, not at an angle. In very gentle and 
pushing strokes the cue may be close to the ball. It tie 
right hand be at all elevated the ball will have a tendency to 
jump. Before making the stroke the learner should not 
only know where the balls will strike, but he should endea- 
vour to calculate where they will be left. 

Mr. Kentfield's directions for striking the ball may be ad- 
vantageously subjoined, although in part a repetition of what 
is given by Mr. White in the preceding and succeeding chap- 
ter. He says, "It is scarcely necessary to observe how 



* Almost every cue player has a mode of striking peculiar to himself. 
Some in making the bridge have accustomed themselves to lay the hand 
quite flat upon the cloth ; others hollow it to the utmost and expand it l>y 
separating the fingers widely from each other; while some again suffer the 
fingers to remain close, and only give the palm a moderate degree of con- 
cavity. Some press the thumb close to the forefinger, others keep it wide 
asunder. In holding the cue, many players grasp it firmly in the hollow of 
the hand; a great number retain it between the thumb and fingers only, 
while these are held perpendicular to the table; and some use the thumb 
and fingers only, but at the same time turn the wrist inwards, so that the 
fingers and back of the hand shall be horizontal instead of perpendicular. 
Lastly, in striking the ball some use a simple push, others a sudden impul- 
sive jerk. It is habit only that has made these different modes of using the 
instrument familiar and indispensable to the individuals who employ them j 
but the young player who has not yet formed any particular habit, will. I 
am convinced, fiad it preferable to accustom himself to the mode here le- 
commended, as it is not only the most elegant, but infinitely the most com- 
modious. This briefly is, with regard to the bridge, to turn the fingers out- 
wards, but to retain them close to each other, and to give the palm such a 
degree of concavity, that the cue when held level with the cloth, may ap- 
proach the ball about the eighth of an inch above its centre: in holding 
the broad end of the cue with the striking hand, to employ either the 
thumb and fingers alone, or the palm with a moderate firmness, and at 
the same time to turn the wrist inwards, so that the phalanges of the 
fingers, and back of the hand may correspond, or be level with the surface 
of the table. 

548 



PRELIMINARY — THE STROKE. 7 

much importance attaches to this circumstance A player 
may take the right position, hold the cue correctly, and thus 
far perform all that is required, and yet he may be unable to 
strike a ball with firmness and with truth ; and for this sim- 
ple reason, that in the act of striking he draws his cue back 
perhaps one inch instead of six, so as rather 'o make a sort 
of push at the ball instead of a firm and distinct stroke. His 
first endearour should be to place the point of his cue to that 
part of the ball he intends to strike, then to draw it back 
about six inches, keeping it at the same time as horizontal as 
possible, and with a rectilinear motion to force it forwards 



Fie. 3. 



Fig. 4. 




Position of the cue for the central stroke. Position of the cue for a following oalL 



Fig. 5. 




Position of the cue for the twist. 



Fig. « 



Fig. 7. 



Fig. 8. 




Position of the cue 
for jumping the ball. 

649 



Perpendicular portion of the cue for a twist, when 
on* ball is near another. 



8 BILLTARDS. 

with a kind of jerk,* taking care also to strike the ball when 
he takes aim, or he will fail in his object. This is perhaps 
one of the most difficult things for the learner to overcome, 
and even old players who have acquired considerable know- 
ledge of the game, have fallen into an error of this kind, and 
felt surprised that the ball did not return from the cushion in 
the direction they had expected, and probably condemned the 
cushion for a fault which was entirely their own. The ne- 
cessity of keeping the cue in a horizontal line cannot be 
urged too forcibly, for if the right hand is too much elevated 
the ball will jump and the stroke fail." In the diagrams 
No. 1,2, and 3, the proper position of the cue in striking is 
represented. 

The action of the mace is much more simple. Previous tc 
the act of striking, its broad extremity is to be adapted very 
accurately to the centre of the ball; and the stick being then 
carried up even with the right shoulder, the instrument and 
the ball are to be, at once, pushed onwards, by the same ef- 
fort, and without any sudden impulsive force. To strike the 
ball with the mace, instead of to push it forward, is deemed 
a foul stroke, as will be seen in the rules. 

CHAPTER II. 

Section I. — General Principles of the Game. 

In the game of Billiards, the general object of the player 
is, briefly, by striking one ball against another, either to pro- 
pel one or both of them into a pocket, or with one ball to 
strike two others successively. Two balls lying in such a 
situation as to admit of one or both of them being pocketed, 
presents to the striker what is termed a hazard. If the red 
ball be one of these, it is then called a red hazard ; if it con- 
sist of the two white balls only, it is called a white hazard. 
When after the contact of the balls the white or striking one 
is pocketed, the striker is said to have made a losing hazard ; 
on the contrary, when the ball struck at, whether red or 

* Mr. Mardon, in reference to this "jerk," says, that more dangerous 
advice could scarcely be given, and recommends that the cue should be 
delivered as smoothly as possible, after drawing it back four inches rather 
than six. 

550 



PRINCIPLES. — THE STROKE. 9 

white, is made to enter a hole, he makes what is termed the 
winning hazard. If with his own ball he strike two others 
successively, the stroke is called a canon (formerly carom or 
carambole, which is the French term.) 

It will be the object of the present chapter to lay down 
those established principles, which are applicable to Billiards 
in general, without having an immediate reference to any par- 
ticular game, the cousideration of which will form the subject 
of a subsequent chapter. 

Attention to various circumstances is necessary, in order 
to play the game of Billiards with delicacy and correctness ; 
namely, the particular modification of the action of the in- 
strument, with which the impulse is given to the bail ; the 
proper regulation of the eye of the striker; the position he 
assumes in striking, and the mode in which he accommodates 
the instrument to his hand; the precise point of the distant 
or object ball,* or of the cushion which is made to receive the 
stroke ; and lastly, the degree of strength necessary to be 
employed, in order to obtain the desired end. 

The accuracy of every stroke will very materially depend 
upon the proper regulation of the eye of the striker; and this 
requires a great degree of nicety. There are two objects to 
be attentively regarded, nearly in the same instant; namely, 
the cue ball, or that to be struck with the instrument, and 
the object ball, or that to be struck at, in order to effect the 
desired hazard, or canon. The position of the object ball 
should first be attentively marked; the cue is then to be 
adapted to the bridge formed by the hand, as before directed, 
and upon this the eye should be suffered to rest until the 
instant of striking; previous to the act of which, it should 
be again carried to the object ball, and remain intently fixed 
on it until the stroke is completed : for the less frequently 
the eye wanders from ball to ball, the more correct will be 
the stroke. Two glances alone are sufficient, and the last of 
these, namely, from the first to the second ball, should be 
sxtremely rapid, at the same time that it is accurately dis- 
tinct ; for if the least hesitation take place after the eye has 

* For the sake of perspicuity throughout the following pages, the ball 
with which the striker plays is termed (in some instances, however, impro- 
perly) the striking, or cue ball, and that which he strikes at, whether red 
or white, is designated by the term object ball. 

551 



10 BILLIARDS. 

left the striking bail, either a miss of the cue, or an imperfect 
stroke will very generally be the consequence. " The eye/' 
says Mr. Mardon, •* will direct the hand. If in the act of 
throwing a stone at a bird, which do you look at, certainly not 
the stone ? If a bowler kept his eye upon the ball in bis 
hand, and not on the wicket, he would seldom or never hit it. 
Mr. Bedford, one of our best winning hazard strikers, in>a- 
riably directs his attention to the ball played upon, and cc.i- 
siders any deviation from that course to be a certain indica- 
tion of nervousness or want of confidence/' 

The Rest. — When your ball is at such a distance that you 
have occasion to use the rest, do not place it too near, lest it 
prevent your seeing the precise spot where you ought to strike. 
If ten or twelve inches be left between the ball and the rest, 
the cue can be kept in a position nearly horizontal. The 
generality of players raise their hand too high. 

The position in which the striker stands, whilst in the act 
of playing, is also of essential importance, beyond what re- 
gards the elegance of his appearance. I have for many years 
repeatedly had occasion to observe, that a player whose pos- 
ture is elegant, who strikes with ease and grace, and who is 
calm and collected in his game, will uniformly attain a degree 
of skill, superior to him who stands inelegantly, delivers his 
ball ungracefully, and in his play is bustling and impatient. 
These are circumstances, however, which are much more 
easily to be acquired by observation, and by the direction of 
a good player, than by written rules. But thus much may 
be observed ; the body should be bent just enough to allow 
of the eye being directed along the cue with ease, and one 
foot should be extended foremost; a person who plays with 
his right hand, should stand with his left foot foremost, and, 
on the contrary, he who is left-handed, should stand with 
his right foot foremost ; by which he will be more steady 
and firm. Mr. Kentfield says, " The player should stand 
firmly on the right leg (if a right-handed player) with the 
left slightly advanced and a little bent, and the trunk nearly 
erect, or not more inclined forward than may be necessary for 
the left hand to rest with ease upon the table. This position 
should be steadily preserved until the stroke has been com- 
pleted, und the arm be the only part moved during the act of 
Striking. 
552 



PRINCIPLES. — THE ANGLES. 11 

tl Every inordinate affection of the mind, immoderate bursts 
of passion, and even the fretting at trifling disappointments 
in his game, are usually found prejudicial to the player : his 
nerves being affected, it becomes impossible for him to 
make his stroke with that steadiness and nicety the game 
requires. " 

The direction of the motion produced in a moveable elastic 
body, projected against a body that is fixed and at rest, is 
simple and determinate ; and is alike under all the varieties 
of velocity and modes of projection; the reaction will inva- 
riably equal the action and be the counterpart thereof, or, in 
other words, the course of the body, after contact, will be the 
counterpart of the motion originally imparted to it; hence 

THE ANGLE of REFLEXION MUST UNIFORMLY BE EQUAL TO 
THE ANGLE OF INCIDENCE.* 

Thus the ball a, propelled against the 
cushion at D, forming with the liue e drawn 
through the point of contact, the angle a, 
e, D, will be returned in the direction D, f, 
forming the corresponding angle D, e, f. 

This, however, is by no means the case 
with regard to bodies, both of which are equally moveable 
and elastic; the motion resulting from the contact of these 
being compound, or modified by the peculiarity in the action 
of and the intensity of the moving powers ; and arising from 
the joint effect of different causes concurring at the same 
instant in their operation. 

It has been found expedient for the better explanation of 
the varieties of motion resulting from a difference in the 
degree and mode of contact of the balls employed in the game 
of Billiards, to divide the object ball, or that against which 
the player direts his stroke, into four or more parts, repre- 
senting the precise points upon which the centre of the strik- 



* This is an axiom of long standing in Billiards, and has been repeated 
by all writers on the subject. It must, however, be borne in mind, that 
angles will vary in proportion to the force applied, and that " the stronger 
the stroke, the more acute will bt the anylt." 1 On highly elastic cushions, the 
angles become nltogether a new study, and it will be found that a ball can 
not be driven up the table by angles across it, with the same uniformity aj 
oil the old fashioned list cushions. 

48 553 




12 



BILLIARDS. 



iDg ball is to be received for different ends. This has given 
rise to the denominations, a full ball, a three-quarter ball, a 
half ball, a third ball, a quarter ball, an eighth ball, &c. 

These terms, however, employed in this sense, are liable to 
convey a wrong idea to persons unacquainted with the game, 
as they by no means coincide with what is usually understood 
by similar expressions in the common language of Billiards. 
Whenever they occur, therefore, in the progress of the pre- 
sent book, it is of importance that they be understood to 
apply to the following explanation of them only. 

The term a full ball, or a full stroke, is meant to imply 
that the contact of the balls is full and complete ; or that the 
central point of one ball becomes exactly opposed to the 
centre of the other, as in Figs. 10 and 15. By the term a 
three-quarter ball is understood that at the time of contact, 
the striking ball is made to cover three-quarters of the object 
ball j and in consequence that three parts of the former are 



Fig. 10. 



Fig. 11. 



Fig. 12. 






Full ball. Three-quarter ball. 

Fig. 13. 





Quarter ball. Fine ball. 

opposed to, or come in contact with, a corresponding three 
parts of the latter, as described in Figs. 11 and lr>. A half 
ball denotes that only half of each ball partakes of the stroke ; 
or, in other words, that the centre of each is the extreme 
point of contact, vide Figs. 12 and 17; and a quarter ball 
denotes that merely one-fourth of each comes in contact as a 
half ball, vide Figs. 13 and 18 ; and in the eighth (or fine) 
ball, (Figs. 14 and 20 ;) the edges of the balls only are made 
to touch each other. And so for third and sixth balls 
554 



PRINCIPLES. — SECTIONS OF THE BALLS. 



13 



We shall now proceed to represent the motions created by 
e;:ch particular mode of contact above described, in the form 
of diagrams, as most likely to impress a clear idea upon the 
mind of the reader. 

Fig. 10. The full ball. Whenever the contact of the 
balls is exactly centrical, it follows of necessity, that the 
course which the object ball obtains, in consequence of the 
impulse of the striking one, must be precisely the original 
direction of the course of the latter ; or that the direction 
acquired by the first ball, from the action of the instrument, 
and that obtained by the second, in consequence of its con- 
tact with the first, must, united, form a straight line. This 
i.i what is usually called a straight stroke. Vide Fig. 15, in 
which a a represents the striker's ball, &, the object ball, c d f 
a line drawn through the centre of each, and signifying the 
direction of the stroke before and after contact. 



Fig. IS. 



Fig. 16. Fig. 17, Fig. 18. Fig. 19. Fig. 20. 




Fall ball. 



Threes uarter Half ball. Third ball. Quarter ball. F ine bait, 
ball. 



Fig. 11 and 16. The three-<juarter ball. When & 
ball is propelled against three-quarters of another, the direc- 
tion of the motion obtained by the one ball, will differ mate- 
rially from that acquired by the other. Supposing a, Fig. 16, 
be the striker's ball, the greater part of the velocity imparted 
to it by the instrument with which it is projected, will be 
communicated to h, which will in consequence be propelled 
in the direction b c, whilst a will be reflected from its original 
course to d, if a moderate degree of strength only be employed 
in the stroke, and to e t if The ball be propelled forcibly ; and 

555 



14 BILLIARDS. 

by a particular modification of the action of the cue, after- 
wards to be spoken of, to f. Vide p. 557, the low stroke. 

Fig. 12 and 17. The half ball. A half ball, or a con- 
tact, in which the half of one ball is covered by half of the 
other, produces in each an equal motion, both with regard to 
direction, strength, and velocity. Thus in figure 17, a and b 
separate from each other at equal distances from c 7 a line 
drawn through the point of contact. 

Fig. 18. The third ball. In the case of the third ball, 
the course described by a, the striker's ball, approaches nearer 
to the straight line, whilst that of b 7 the object ball, deviates 
more considerably from it. 

Fig. 13 and 19. The quarter ball. In the quarter stroke 
represented in this figure, it will be seen, that the striking 
ball, a, obtains a nearer approximation to the perpendicular, 
drawn through the point of contact, and that the ball b is 
more widely reflected from it. And in proportion as the stroke 
is more fine, or the less the degree of contact, so will the 
angle formed by the acquired course of the object ball, with 
the original direction of the striking ball, on the line c, be 
more considerable, and the angle formed by the course of the 
striking ball, previous to contact, with the direction it obtains 
subsequently, will be smaller. 

Fig. 14 and 20. The eighth or fine ball. The relative 
directions obtained by the balls, when their extreme points 
only come in contact, is precisely the reverse of that produced 
by the three-quarter ball, above described : the object ball 
approaching more or less nearly to the parallel d y and the 
etriking ball to the perpendicular c, in proportion as the stroke 
is more or less fine. 

The motion which the striking ball obtains after contact 
with that against which it is struck, will in every case be 
modified by the particular action of the instrument with 
which the stroke is given ; and more especially by the parti- 
cular action of the cue. There are four principal points in 
the ball to which the cue is occasionally applied for difierent 
purposes; namely, 1. The centre. 2. Below the centre. 3. 
Above the centre, and level with the table. 4. Above the 
centre, and oblique with regard to the level of the table. 
The more minute divisions shown in the seventeen points of 
556 



PRINCIPLES. — CARDINAL POINTS OF THE BALLS. 15 

the striking or cue ball, at page 559, are all more or less 
modifications of this force. 

1. The central stroke, (see Figs. 1 and 3.) This is 
the usual and common mode of striking. The cue ought 
always to be applied to the centre of the ball, unless there 
are any of the objects in view to be presently mentioned. 
The stroke is not only more sure with regard to the action of 
the instrument, but a more accurate and even motion is 
imparted to the distant ball. This mode of striking is uni- 
versally employed in all common hazards ; in the making of 
common canons; in playing at the cushion to obtain an even 
reverberation of the ball ; and in those particular cases where 
it is designed that all the motion acquired by the first or cue 
ball should be imparted to the second or object ball, in such 
a manner, that the former shall lie dead, or remove little 
after contact.* 

2. The low stroke. When a ball is struck a little below 
the centre, its progress will be retarded, a little lower it will 
be arrested, and by hitting it lower still, that is, making 
what is designated the low stroke, (No. 7, Fig. 24,) it will 
recoil from that against which it is propelled, with a slow 
whirling motion ; a circumstance which affords an advantage 
peculiar to the cue-player, and 'which often enables him to 
score under the most adverse circumstances. This latter 
stroke is usually employed in making canons, where the 
three balls form either a right angle or less than a right angle ; 
in effecting the losing hazard, when the object ball is too 
far beyond the pocket to allow of its being made in the com- 
mon mode of striking; and in playing three-quarter balls, 

* Although this observation is theoretically correct, yet it is necessary 
to observe, that it is by no means generally so, in a practical point of view. 
When the balls are near to each other, the central stroke, it is true, will 
produce the effect here described, or the one ball will impart to the other 
the whole of the velocity or quantity of motion communicated to it by the 
action of the original moving power; but when the balls are farther sepa 
rated from each other, it will be necessary, in order to produce this effect, 
to play the low stroke for a recoil, otherwise unavoidable inaccuracies, 
either in the table or mode of projection of the ball, will frustrate the 
design of the striker In the examples therefore under particular games, 
in the succeeding part of the work, whenever it is intended that the 
•triker's ball shall remain dead, it is prescribed to him to play the low 



•troke. 



48* 557 






16 



BILLIARDS. 



when it is expedient to use only a very moderate degree of 
strength. 

Fig. 21. Fig. 22. Fig. 28. 




Low stroke. High stroke. High ohlique 
for a canon. to follow. stroke. 

A diagram will render the utility of this mode of striking 
more obvious than a verbal description. Let a, fig. 21, be 
the striker's ball, and the object of the stroke a canon. Now 
it will be evident in the position of the three balls delineated, 
that this purpose can by no means be effected in the common 
way of striking; for if the ball a be made to receive the 
stroke of the cue ever so strongly in its centre, it will only 
recede from b y after contact, in the direction b d ; if less for- 
cibly, it will fly off to e; but if it be struck beneath its centre 
it will roll backwards to the ball at c. 

3. The high stroke. Above the centre, and parallel with 
the table. A ball, when struck above its centre, imparts only 
a portion of its velocity to the ball against which it is pro- 
pelled, and continues its motion onwards in a direction more 
or less straight, in proportion to the degree of fulness of the 
stroke. It is technically said to walk or follow. This mode 
of play is advantageously used to make the balls follow each 
other into a pocket, when they are in a line with each other, 
and in making canons, when the third ball is partly masked 
by the second : as an instance, let a, Fig. 22, be the striker's 
ball, and his design is to canon. Now if he strike his ball in 
the centre, the greater part of the motion he gives it will be 
communicated to 6, and in consequence it will remain in 
nearly the position which b occupied ; if it be struck under 
the centre it will recoil ; but if it be made to receive the 
impression of the cue above its centre, it will continue to roll 
onwards to c. 
558 



PRINCIPLES. CARDINAL POINTS OF THE BALLS 



17 



4. The high oblique stroke. Above the centre, and 
oblique with regard to the table. In this stroke the cue. 
instead of being held in the usual way, upon a level with the 
table, is applied to the ball with considerable obliquity, in 
some instances nearly perpendicularly, or in a very consider- 
able angle with the cloth, so that the ball is forced against 
the table, rather than pushed smoothly over its surface, in 
consequence of which it obtains a leaping, instead cf a con- 
tinued motion ; and the striker is thus enabled to force it 
over a continuous ball, either after contact with it, or without 
touching it at all. (See fig. 8.) This mode of play is chiefly 
practised in order to strike the third ball when masked by the 
second, and in making canons when the balls are in a line 
with each other, and the third is at a considerable distance 
from the second, as in Fig. 23 : in this position of the balls, 
the striker, at a, will, by playiug in this manner, be enabled 
either to strike the ball c without touching b } or to strike both 
b and c in succession. 

The principal sections of the ball may be subdivided 
into a considerable number of points from which it may be 
struck by the cue, and each point when struck will give rise 
to a different motion. The student can only acquire a know- 
ledge of these by practice, or the instruction of an expert 
teacher. Annexed is a diagram of the ball divided, according 
to Mr. Kentfield, into seventeen points, from any of which it 
may be struck so as to alter its direction. 



Fig. 24 




Ibe different points for striking the ball 



559 



18 BILLIARDS. 

The motion which the striking ball obtains after contact, 
will be materially modified by the degree of strength em- 
ployed in the stroke, the proper regulation of which is of the 
utmost importance. Thus, in the case represented by the 
diagram 21, the ball a, projected forcibly, will recede after 
striking b, to d, but if projected with gentle strength, it 
will arrive at e. The parts to be struck, as well as the 
strength to be employed in each stroke, must differ with the 
design in view, and will be the subject of future considera- 
tion. 

We may here introduce Mr. Mardon's directions for the 
" side stroke," a perfect knowledge of which he deems the 
most important accomplishment that a billiard player can 
possibly acquire. " The ball must be struck on the side it is 
intended to go. If it is the wish of the player that the ball 
should incline to the right, it must be hit on the right side, 
if to the left, the left side must be struck. There are several 
parts of the side of the ball that can be struck, and some 
strokes require one part to be hit, and some another, but all 
have greater effect when the ball is gently struck."* A very 
little instruction from a professor in the use of the side stroke 
would greatly improve the game of any amateur. 



Section II. — Of the Angles of the Table and of the 
Common Hazards. 

The first thing in the game of billiards to which the atten- 
tion of the novice should be directed, is what is commonly 
called the angles of the table, or in other words, the course 
which the balls obtain by reverberation from the elastic 
cushion. For this purpose he should at first employ one ball 
only ; he should strike it against various parts of the pad or 
cushion surrounding the table, and attentively mark the 
course which it takes under every different relative position, 
and he will soon perceive what we have already stated at 
page 553, that " the angle of reflection will be, in every case, 
equal to the angle of incidence," or in other words, he will 
see that the direction the ball acquires after contact, will be 

* Formerly there were cues made with a bevilled point for twist* (or 
fcreto*. as they are sometimes called), uud side-stivkts. 

560 



ANGLES OF THE TABLE. 
Fig. 25. Fig. *«• 



19 




• The black lines in these, and all the following diagrams, represent the 
course of the ball before reverberation ; the dotted lines its course after the 
first reflexion ; the faint lines its course after the second reflexion. 

561 



20 BILLIARDS. 

precisely the reverse of, and form a counterpart to, its ori- 
ginal course ; so that before he strikes he has only to draw 
a line with the cue from his ball to the particular part of the 
cushion he intends to strike, and then complete the angle by 
a corresponding one in the contrary direction, in order to 
ascertain with precision (provided, at least, the cloth be 
smooth, the cushion accurate, and the ball be propelled 
evenly) the event of his stroke.* 

Different strengths, however, as already said, will be pro- 
ductive of different angles, for a ball may run in the same 
direction to a given point in the cushion, but return from it 
at an angle varying with the force of the stroke. It is there- 
fore of the utmost importance to the learner, that he pay 
especial attention to the strengths, always keeping in mind 
that judicious and delicate hitting is superior to force. 

We annex four diagrams of angles, two simple ones (Fig. 
25 and 26) from Mr. Kentfield's work, and two somewhat 
elaborate (27 and 28) from White. Such examples might be 
multiplied ad infinitum, but the learner by practice and obser- 
vation will easily form these for himself, and in so doing wili 
the better imprint them on his memory. After a little prac- 
tice with one ball, he should proceed to employ two, combin- 
ing his observation of the motion acquired by the contact of 



* In playing brioole, (». e. from the cushion) on« caution is absolutely 
necessary to be observed by the young player. He will find himself very 
seldom able to give an even motion to his b;ill after its contact with the 
cushion, if he strike it with the point of his cue. This arises from no defect 
cither in the cloth, the cushion, or the rotundity of the ball ; but it is the 
effect of the particular manner in which the point of the instrument is 
applied to the ball, which most be struck in the exact centre, to accom 
plish which requires some skill. When, therefore, the cushion is played at 
designedly, the striker, if he seek to obtain an accurate reverberation of his 
ball, will find it expedient to use the butt end of the instrument, or rather 
another butt, which he should keep in readiness for the purpose ; for to 
have the handle of the cue with which he plays sufficiently flattened, 
would prove an obstacle to thp action of his hand. The flattened portion 
of the cue I am myself (E. White) in the habit of using is made differently 
from what is usual, and I find it infinitely more commodious, and to obtain 
more of the action of the mace. Instead of being flattened for a consider- 
able part of its length, as cues are generally made, it is cut off only for 
about two inches from its extremity, and that so obliquely as to form with 
the parallel nearly an angle of 45 degrees ; at the same time that the end 
to be applied to the ball is also slanted in the opposite direction. 

562 



PRINCIPLES — WFO1N0 I1AZARDS. 



21 



these, with that obtained by their subsequent percussion 
against the cushion. Nothing i« so essentially requisite to 
constitute a good player, as a perfect knowledge of the angles 
of the table. By an intimate acquaintance with these, the 
striker will often be enabled not only effectually to baffle the 
skill of his adversary by effecting adverse dispositions of the 
balls, but also to score himself under what appear to be the 
most unfavorable circumstances. 

Having made these introductory observations on the general 
principles, I shall now proceed to speak of the several com- 
mon strokes and hazards, which form a part of the different 
games, the particular laws and rules of which are afterwards 
to be laid down. They are introduced chiefly as lessons, 
which it is essentially important the learner should practise 
well before he attempts to play a regular game. 



Fig. 29. 



Fig. 80. 





Winning hazards. 

1 full ball. 2 three quarter ball, 3 half ball, 

4 third, 5 quarter, eighth ball. 



Winning hazard, 
explained at pages 564 and 66& 



Fig 29. Winning hazards. After the learner has 
acquired some intimacy with the angles of the table, his 

563 



22 BILLIARDS. 

next preparatory step should be to make himself master of 
the several common winning and losing hazards. For this 
purpose he will find it expedient to begin with the winning, 
which may be considered as a key to billiards in general, 
for whoever can make a good winning hazard, will find little 
difficulty in effecting every other which the table may pre- 
sent to him. The full (or straight) winning hazard should 
first be practised ; beginning by placing the two balls near 
to each other, precisely in a line, and in the direction of a 
pocket, or what is still better, by marking a particular spot 
in one of the end cushions with chalk, and upon that precise 
point directing the stroke of the ball. After a little practice 
has enabled him to strike this with ease at a short distance, 
he is to remove the balls further asunder, and in the end 
make the extent of his stroke the whole length of the table : 
and if his eye and hand be steady enough to enable him to 
strike the mark at pleasure, at this distance, he may consider 
himself possessing all the requisites of a good player, as the 
full stroke for a winning hazard requires a far greater degree 
of skill and delicacy than any other ; for in order to produce 
a straight and equal motion in the distant ball, it is neces 
sary that its centre receive the stroke with the utmost degree 
of precision. The learner should next proceed to practise 
the other winning hazards, namely the three-quarter ball, 
half ball, third ball, quarter ball, and eighth ball winning 
hazards. 

Fig. 30. Winning and losing hazards. No. 1 illus- 
trates a winning hazard from the baulk, into the centre 
pocket. In this case, the ball should be played slow, or at 
least with moderate strength; for if it be played strong, how- 
ever correctly, it may jump out of the pocket. No. 2 also 
represents a winning hazard, which should be slowly pla} r ed, 
since the space of entrance for the ball is confined. No. 3, 
this space is less narrow, and, consequently it may be more 
boldly played. No. 4 is a winning hazard to be made by a 
moderate stroke. No. 5 a straight hazard, which is easier in 
this position of the balls than if the object ball were at the 
point of figure 5. 

With regard to winning hazards, the striker should observe 
one general caution, namely, if he play at the adversary's ball, 
to use only just strength enough to carry it to the pocket, and 
564 



PRINCIPLES — LOSING HAZARDS. 



23 



if he play at the red ball, to play strong enough to bring it 
away from the pocket, in the event of his failing to pocket 
it.* Mr. Mardon adds that if the hazard presented appears 
to be two to one against accomplishment, it should never be 
undertaken when the player has the best of the game. The 
b ill of the adversary should be dropped close to a cushion, or 
the red ball doubled to a situation of equal security. 



Fijr. 31. 



Fig. 32. 





Losing hazards. 



Losing hazards. 



Figs. 31, 32. Lostno hazards. In these figures are repre- 
sented some of the most common losing hazards. They must 
occur, more or less frequently, in every game; and after the 
different degrees of strength and fulness requisite for each 
stroke have been once acquired, they are, of all other hazards, 
the most easily played, requiring only a little practice and at- 
tention to enable the striker, in every instance, to ensure suc- 

* This ai a general rule, is liable to various exceptions, which will b« 
hereafter pointed out. 



49 



505 



24 BILLIARDS. 

cess. In playing for winning hazards, it should be observed, 
that the more the balls recede from a parallel with the pocket, 
or the more acute the angle formed by the pocket and the 
two balls, the more fine must be the stroke, and vice versa. 
It is, however, precisely the reverse with regard to losing 
hazards ; in playing these, the further the pocket in which 
the hazard is to be made, and the two balls recede from the 
parallel, the more full and strong will it be necessary to strike ; 
and on the contrary, the more they approach to the straight 
line, the more fine and softly must the ball be played. Thus 
the hazard | is denominated a three-quarter ball losing haz- 
ard, and requires the striking ball to be played upon three- 
quarters of the object ball with considerable strength ; (see 
figures in the diagrams 31 and 32,) $ is a half ball losing 
hazard, J a third ball losing hazard, \ a quarter ball losing 
hazard, and to make the hazard £, the object ball must be 
only lightly touched upon the side opposed to the pocket, into 
which it is designed the striker's ball shall enter. In some 
particular instances, however, where there are other objects 
in view besides the simple hazard, as also where the balls are 
so nearly in a line with the pocket, as to expose the striker 
to the danger of missing, in consequence of" the fineness with 
which his ball must be played, and it is, at the same time, of 
importance to make the losing instead of the winning hazard; 
it becomes expedient to play nearly full instead of fine; at 
the same time adapting the cue to the ball above its centre 
in order that the latter may continue its motion onwards, aftei 
contact, and ultimately enter the desired pocket (//, fig. 31.) 
The losing hazard, under a variety of circumstances, may be 
made to much greater advantage, by playing thus full, than 
in the common way, as the striker will be enabled to use a 
greater degree of strength in his stroke : the event, however, 
except to an experienced player, will be by no means so certain. 
In three-quarter ball losing hazards, also, it is sometimes of 
consequence to employ a less degree of strength than would 
be required in the usual manner of playing them. When this 
is the case, it becomes necessary to play under the centre of 
the ball, with gentle force ; for, as has been already observed, 
a ball struck thus softly under its centre, will obtain the same 
course after contact with the distant one, as when played for- 
cibly in tin usual way. 
66« 



PRINCIPLES — WINNING AND LOfcTNG HAZARDS 



25 



With regard to the hazards represented, in the preceding 
figures, the young player should invariably have in view the fol- 
lowing rules ; first, when all of the balls are out of the baulk, so 
to dispose of that which forms the hazard in question, that a 
canon, or another hazard in one of the top or middle pockets, 
shall remain for his next stroke ; this he will in every instance 
be able to accomplish, by varying the action of the cue, and 
using more or less strength and fulness as occasion may require. 
And, secondly, when the third ball is within the striking line, 
rather to sacrifice the hazard altogether, lhan to play at it, 
when by so doing he must leave his adversary the baulk. 



Fig. 33. 



Fig. 34. 





Winning and losing hazards. A Jenny. 



Winning and losing hazards, 
explained at page 569. 



Fig. 33. Winning and losing hazards. Cases 1, and 
2. These cases represent two hazards which, from the fre- 
quency of their occurrence, are particularly interesting to the 
learner, who will find his advantage in practising them fre- 
quently on the table. In these, and in similar positions of the 
balls, with regard to the middle pockets, the striker has the 
choice of three modes of playing ; namely, either to try for a 
losing hazard in the middle pocket, and a winning hazard in 

567 



26 BILLIARDS. 

a bottom pocket, by playing a three-quarter ball from the 
point b, in Case a, and a half ball from c, in Case d ; or 
secondly, to attempt the losing hazard only, from e e, and at 
the same time to strike with sufficient strength, to bring the 
ball up again to the middle of the table, for a repetition of 
the stroke ; or thirdly, to play for the winning hazard instead 
of the losing. The first of these I affirm to be invariably ill- 
judged play; the second is what ought generally to be at- 
tempted, at least, in the winning and losing game; and if 
the striker play with address, it will often be in his power to 
complete his game by the succession of hazards that will pre- 
sent themselves.* In some particular instances, however, as 
when the adversary's, and not the red, ball forms the hazard, 
and it is of importance to obtain the baulk, or when the haz- 
ard is presented by the red ball, and the adversary's ball 
happens to be in such a position as to afford a favourable 
canon, after the red ball has been holed and replaced upon 
the spot, it will be advisable to adopt the latter mode of 
play, in preference to the former. The learner will do well 
therefore to make each of these familiar to him, that he may 
employ either as occasion may require. 

Cases 3, 4, 5. The hazard here delineated, constitutes what, 
in the language of the billiard room, is termed a Jenny; 
and it is one of the most common, as well as one of the most 
favourable cases that can present itself to the player ; inso- 
much so, indeed, that some players who have acquired a facility 
of making this particular hazard, consider themselves nearly 
certain of obtaining the game when they are so fortunate as to 
have it occur to them : for by playing fine, and with a very 
moderate degree of strength, the ball which presents the 
hazard, will be propelled in a direct line against the cushion, 
and will return to nearly its former position ; so as to admit of 
the same stroke being repeated, until the hazard is lost by a 

* When the striker's ball is off the table, and he has the whole range of 
the ring to play from, this may be readily accomplished by every placer 
who is tolerably well acquainted with the game. The usual source of tail- 
ure among young players, is their placing their balls in an improper situa- 
tion, and consequently using either too much or too little strength in their 
strokes. Thus in Case 1, if the striker play from point m, (centre of the 
baulk line) he will bring the object ball into the baulk; if from b, he will 
leave it below the middle pocket : but if he place his ball ate, such a degree 
of strength will become requisite, aa will briug it up to nearly the same 
part of the table. 

5138 



PRINCIPLES. — THE JENNY, ETC. 27 

failure. If managed properly, it is also as generally a safe, 
as a succjssful hazard, wherever the third ball may happen to 
be ; for the necessary gentleness of the stroke will only serve 
to carry the striker's bail about midway between the top and 
middle pockets, and near to the side cushion : but there is no 
hazard which requires more delicacy in playing, and conse- 
quently none which demands more practice on the part of the 
learner. As in the preceding cases, the success of this stroke 
chiefly depends upon placing the striking ball, (provided this 
be off the table, as is here supposed to be the case,) in the 
proper part of the striking ring. It is of particular impor- 
tance that the learner make these hazards familiar by frequent 
practice.* 

Case 6. A full ball winning hazard for the pocket g. The 
red ball is here represented as occupying its proper spot, and 
the striker's ball is behind it in a direct line with the pocket. 
This is a simple and common case, but it is one, which, if 
managed with address, may, by a particular mode of play, be 
often turned to much advantage. From the balls being so 
near to each other, the player will be enabled to vary his man- 
ner of striking at pleasure : if therefore, he avails himself 
of the low stroke above described, (page 553,) he may with- 
out difficulty make his ball return to the place which it before 
occupied, and thus will be able to repeat the stroke more or 
less frequently, proportioned to his share of dexterity. This 
*s well deserving of practice.* 

Fig. 34. Winning and losing hazards. Cases 1 and 2. 
Each of these Cases is vulgarly termed a Pair of Breeches, 
for a half stroke will occasion the balls to separate at equal 
distances from the point of contact, and if the stroke be 
made with proper care, each will enter a pocket. Such a mode 
of play, however, in the generality of cases, is by no means 
prudent, as more advantage is usually derived from making 
one hazard only, and disposing the balls favourably for a suc- 
ceeding ; yet as, in some particular instances, the effecting the 
double hazard is an important advantage, the young player 
•>uuuid endeavour to attain a facility of doing it, and this he 

* On the present fast tables it is scarcely possible to make the Jenny 
Bftveral times in succession, as the extreme elasticit\*rf»f the cushion rever- 
berates the object Dali beyond the necessary posiwbn, however fine the 
vtroke. 

49* 569 



28 BILLIARDS. 

will find by no means difficult. The same observations will 
apply to the common Cases 3, 4. Whenever these double 
hazards are attempted, one caution is absolutely necessary tc 
be observed by the striker, namely, always to employ such a 
degree of strength, that if neither ball happen to be pocketed 
by the stroke, each shall recede to some distance from the 
pocket. 

Cases 5, 6. The hazards represented in these Cases, 
although, with regard to positiou, nearly similar to the pre- 
ceding, require a mode of play peculiar to themselves, which 
if practised with address, will often ensure to the striker the 
most important advantages. There are few positions of the 
balls more frequent than when either the red or the adver- 
sary's ball is before the striking ring, while the striker's ball 
is off the table ; and none perhaps from which a good player 
may score more points. By gently touching the side of the 
ball he will be able to hole himself successively in the middle 
pocket, and in the end, when the ball has been so far removed, 
as no longer to admit of this, he will obtain the favourable 
hazard represented in Cases 1 and 2, fig. 33. This, like the 
Cases 3, 4, 5, fig. 33, particularly demands the attention of 
the young player, who will do well to employ a considerable 
time in practising it. 

Notwithstanding the particular mode of play recommended 
in this case is usually so productive, it ought not to be prac- 
tised in every case ; but nothing is more difficult than to lay 
down fixed rules, when the propriety of certain modes of play 
must almost entirely be influenced by the degree of skil) 
which the player may happen to possess, and by the facility 
which he may have of making certain hazards in preference 
to others ; the young player, however, will, perhaps, find his 
interest in adopting the following. He will perceive that the 
ball presents ten different hazards. If the adversary's ball 
forms the case, and the red ball is either below the middle of 
the table, or above it, and without the line ; or if the case is 
formed by the red ball, and the adversary's is either at the 
bottom of the table, or at the top of the table, and near to a 
cushion, play as above directed; but if the red ball is in the 
baulk, or the adversary's ball is off the table, prefer the win- 
ning hazard and the baulk. 
570 



EXAMPLES OF DOUBLET HAZARDS. 



29 



Fiir- 35. 



Fig. 35. 





Winuiug Doublet liazarda. 



Wmuin" Doublet Hazard*. 



Fig. 35. — Winning Doublet (or Double) Hazards. 



Case a, b. A full ball winning 
hazard in the pocket c* 

Case d, e. A full ball winning 
hazard in the pocket f. 

Case g, h. A full ball winning 
hazard in the pocket i. 

Case k, 1. A full ball winning 
hazard in the pocket c. 



Case m, n. A full ball winning 
hazard in the pocket c. A f ball 
winning hazard in the pocket i. 

Case o, p. A full ball winning 
hazard in the pocket q. A } ball 
winning hazard in the pocket, t 

Case r, s. A full ball winning 
hazard in the pocket t. 



Fig. 36. — Winning Doublet Hazards. 



Case a, b. A | ball winning hazard 
in the pocket d. A } ball winning 
hazard in the pocket q. 

Case g, h. A fnll ball winning 
hazard in the pocket i. 

Case 1, m. A full ball winning 
Hazard in the pocket n. 



Case o, p. A full ball winning 
hazard in the pocket q. 

Case r, s. A full ball winning 
hazard in the pocket t. 

Case v, u. A full ball winning 
hazard in the pocket k. A i ball 
winning hazard in the pocket t 



• The first letter of each case distinguishes the striker'* ball. 

571 



80 



BILLIARDS. 



Fig. 87. 



Fist- 38. 





loiiag Doublet Hazards. 



Winning and Losing Doublet Hazards. 



Fig. 37. — Losing Doublet Hazards. 



Case a, b. A i ball losing hazard 
in the pocket g. A } ball losing 
hazard in the pocket h. 

Ca9e i, k. A } ball losing hazard 
in the pocket m. A J ball losing 



hazard in the pocket g. A f 

cket 



ball 



losing hazard in the pocket m. 

Case n, o. A f ball losing hazard 
ha the pocket q. A [ ball losing 
hazard in the pocket p. A i ba2 
losing hazard in the pocket s. 



Fig. 38. — WwxiifG awd Losuro Doublet Hazards. 



Case a, b. A winning hazard in the 
pocket d, and a losing hazard in the 
pocket c, by playing a i bail low 
stroke upon the right side of b. 

Case o, f. A winning hazard in the 
pocket d, and a losing hazard in the 
pocket c, by playing a third ball 
upon the loft side of f. 

Ca«e g, h. A winning hazard in 
the pocket i, and a losing hazard in 
the pocket d, by playing a f ball low 
•troke upon the left side of h. 

572 



Case k, k A winning hazard ra 
the pocket r, and a losing hazard in 
the pocket s, by playing a i ball 
smart npon the right side of 1. 

C;ise n, o. A winning hazard in 
the pocket s, and a losing hazard in 
the pocket n>, by playing a I ball 
upon the right side of o. 

Ca^e p, q. v A winning hazard in 
the pocket r, and a losi?ig hazard in 
the pocket c, by playing a I ball low 
stroke upon the left side of q 



EXAMPLES OF DOUBLET HAZARDS. 
Fig. 89. Fig. 40. 



31 





Fig. 39. — Winning and Losing Doublet Hazards. 



C;i>e a, b. A winning hazard in 
the pocket c, and a losing hazard in 
the pocket d, by playing nearly full 
and high upon the left side of b. 

Case e, f A winning hazard in the 
pocket h, and a losing hazard in the 
pocket g, by playing a } ball upon 
the left side of f. 

Case i, k. A winning hnzard in 
the pocket g, and a losing hazard in 
tho pocket h, by playing a I ball 
upon the right side of k. 

Case 1 m. A winning hazard in 



pocket n, and a losing in q, by play- 
ing a i ball on the left side of m. 

Case o, p. A winning hazard in 
the pocket h, and a losing hazard in 
the pocket n, by playing a f ball low 
stroke upon the right side of p. 

Case s, t. A winning hazard in 
the pocket c, and a '.osing hazard in 
the pocket d, by playing a J ball 
smart upon the right side of t. 

Case v, u. A winning hazard in 
the pocket q, and a losing hazard in 
the pocket g, bv playing a i v 
smart upon the right side of u. 



ball 



Fig. 40. — Winning and Losing Doublet Hazards. 



Case a, b. A winning hazard in 
the pocket d, and a losing hazard in 
the pocket c, by playing a I ball 
smart upon the right side of b. 

Case e, f. A winning hazard in 
the pocket g, and a losing hazard in 
the pocket d, by playing a i ball 
strong up on the ri^ht side off. 

Case h, i. A winning hazard in 
the pocket k, and a losing hazard in 



the pocket c, by playing a 1 ball 
smart upon the left side of i. 

Case 1, m. A winning hazard in 
the pocket g, and a losing hazard in 
the pockei d, by playing a } ball upon 
the right side of m. The reverse by 
playing a | ball upon its left side. 

Casen,o. A winning haeard in the 
pocket c, and a losing hazard in the 
pocket d, by playing smartlvupono 

573 



32 BILLIARDS. 

Winning and Losing Doublet Hazards (made from 
the cushion). The hazards delineated in figures 35-40 are 
what are usually called doublet hazards,* and none require 
more judgment and dexterity, inasmuch as success in playing 
them entirely depends upon an intimate acquaintance with 
the angles of the table, and the precise degrees of strength 
necessary to be employed for different ends. In practising, 
as well as playing all hazards of this nature, it is of import- 
ance to mark well the precise point of the cushion to be 
struck by the ball previous to its reverberation. Use will 
make this familiar to the eye ; but in learning hazards of this 
description, the learner will find it of advantage to measure 
the angle before he strikes his ball. This lie may do cither 
by means of his cue, or by the eye aloue. Thus in Case a />, 
fig. 37, which presents a losing hazard in the top pocket, let 
him mark with his eye the particular point in the cushion 
which he designs his ball («) shall strike after contact with 
b ; let him suppose a line drawn through that part of the 
ball he purposes to strike, and then complete the angle by 
making a corresponding line above it; or, in other words, 
marking the course which the ball a must of necessity obtain, 
after striking the cushion, provided the angle of reflexion 
equal the angle of incidence. By this means it will be obvious 
to him that his stroke must, in this case, fail of success, and 
that it will be necessary to play fine upon the ball, so as 
to strike the cushion at the point marked, and enter the 
pocket (j. 

Nearly the same observations will apply to various winning 
and losing doublet hazards; the principal of which are here 
delineated. It has however been already observed, that it is 
very generally of more advantage to pocket one ball than two; 
and it may indeed be laid down as a general rule, to make the 
single in preference to the double hazard ; but there are various 
exceptions to this, which will be pointed out in the examples 
applicable to the particular games. Every player therefore 
jught to be able to make either as circumstances may require;")" 

• Doublet. A mode of play which consists in striking the ball against 
One of the cushions, so as to make it rebound to the opposite side. Strik- 
ing two cushions is, by some, called double double. 

t What is here said should be understood with some limitation. It is 
not to be supposed that any player, however expert, will be ublo to make 

57 i 






OF THE DIFFERENT GAMES OF BILLIARDS. 33 

and there are very few positions which a ball can occupy, in 
which it will not present, at the same time, a winning hazard, 
a losing hazard, and a double or winning and losing hazard. 



CHAPTER III. 

OF TILE DIFFERENT GAMES OF BILLIARDS. 

The following is an enumeration of the different games, 
but the only one now usually played in England, and recog- 
nized as " Billiards," is the Winning and Losing Carambole 
Game, played with three balls. 

1. The White Winning Game. This game is played 
with two white balls, and is twelve up; which points are 
scored (independent of forfeitures) exclusively from winning 
hazards; the only object of this simplest of all the games 
being to pocket your opponent's ball and keep your own out.* 
See Rules and Observations page 636, &c. 

2. The White Losing Game, also twelve up is played 
with two white balls, and is the reverse of the winning. All 
the losing hazards score for the striker, and all the winning 
hazards for his opponent. The rules of the former game 
apply to this. See page 638. 

3. The White Winning and Losing Game. This is 
a combination of the two preceding; that is to say, all balls 
which are put in by striking first the adversary's ball reckon 
towards the game. Eighteen up. 

The three preceding games are by far the most simple that 
are played, and may be made introductory to those with three 
or more balls, which are more complicated and difficult. For 

every hazard, and more especially every doublet hazard of this description, 
that may present itself to him. To accomplish this would require more 
dexterity than can ever, perhaps, be attained in the game of billiards ; but 
a good player will have it in his power to make them more frequently, than 
it appears possible to the eye of an indifferent one; and he will often be 
able to manage this so adroitly, as to give his success the appearance of 
chance, and thereby delude his adversary, than whom he wishes to appear 
less skilful; and who, considering his defeat as the effect of luck, is often 
induced to repeat his game, to the unavoidable gain of his more skilful an- 
tagonist. 

* M This is the original game of Billiards, but now very seldom played, 
perhaps on account of its monotony." — Kentfield. 

575 



34 BILLTARDS. 

a long while after the invention of the game, they were in 
almost exclusive use j but they are now superseded by the dif- 
ferent caraniboles, which have been introduced from France. 

THE CARAMBOLE GAMES. 

These are played with three balls ; one red, which is neu- 
tial, and termed (after the French) the Carambole; the other 
two white, one of which is allotted to each player. The ca- 
rambole, or red ball, is placed upon an appropriate spot at the 
upper end of the table, and in commencing is played at from 
the lower or baulk end, the object of the striker being either 
to make the winning or losing hazard, according to the parti- 
cular form of the game, or (when the balls are on the tabic) 
to hit with his own ball the other two successively ; which 
stroke is called a canon (formerly carambole,) and for this he 
obtains two points. 

When the carambole game was first introduced, it was 
sometimes made to consist exclusively of canons, which may 
be called the simple game (see page 685,) played successively 
until a certain number of points (usually twelve) were gained ; 
or in the manner of hazards, a stake depending upon each 
stroke. It is now, however, almost universally played in 
conjunction with either winning or losing hazards, or both; 
constituting the following games : — 

1. The Winning and Losing Game. In England this 
is the established and recognized game, and in the absence of 
any particular definition is, par excellence, regarded as Bil- 
liards. It is usually played 21 up, but sometimes 24, 30, 42 
(i. e., twice 21,) 50, 63 (i. e., three times 21,) and even 100. 
The points are scored from canons, and winning and losing 
hazards, equally, both white and red. White hazards and 
canons each count two ; red hazards three points. Misses 
and coups score to the adversary. 

This game is, of all that are played, the most replete with 
variety and amusement : Indeed, the chance* in it are so 
numerous that the odds are not usually cal* dated, but are 
generally laid according to fancy. For the E \les and Direc- 
tions see page 591. 

2. The Winning Game. Tn this game, he points are 
obtained (independently of the forfeitures, whk '\ every game 
has peculiar to itself,) by winning hazard* and canons. 

576 



OF THE CAKAMBGLE OK RED BALL GAMES. 35 

Losing hazards, misses, and coups are forfeits to the adver- 
sary. The game is eighteen up.* As it is subject to fewer 
ehances than the winning and losing game, it is sometime* 
preferred by good players. It is the principle game played 
in France Vide Chap. V., page 629, for Rules, &c. 

3. The Losing Game. This is the reverse of the win- 
ning. It consists of eighteen points, which are made by 
canons, losing, and double hazards ; counted as in the winning 
and losing game. Winning hazards, misses, and coups, score 
to the adversary, Vide Chap VL, page 63#, for Rules and 
Observations. 

The carambole games require a considerable degree of skill 
and judgment^ and are usually played with the cue. In these 
games the red ball is placed upon a spot at the further end 
of the table, on a line with the stringing nail (which is in the 
centre of the baulk line ;) and each antagonist, at the first 
stroke of a hazard, plays from the semi-circle within the 
baulk. After the making of canons and hazards, the grand 
object of the player is to obtain the baulk ; that is, to pocket 
the white ball, and bring his own ball, and the red one, below 
the string line. By this means the opponent is* obliged to 
play bricole from the opposite cushion, and it often happens 
that the game is determined by this situation. If, in com? 
mencing, the first player gives a miss, as is the common prac- 
tice, this should be done from the side cushion, taking care U> 
bring the ball into the circle. 

CRAMP GAMES. 

These are ail played sixteen up, and generally by good 
players against indifferent ones, instead of giving points, in 
order to equalize the game. In playing them the rules of the 
Winning and Losing Game (page 591) are to be observed, 
together with some few additional oaes, which are here sub- 
joined in their respective places. 

1. The Winning against the Winning and 
Losing Game. 

21 up. This is equal to giving 10 points in 24. 

* The red winning game is played in two ways, either by the plavera 
Striking alternately, or by their following their successful strokes. In tlio 
former case, the number of points are usually sixteen, in the latter, eigli 
teea; the latter mode of play is now almost exclusively adopted. 

50 677 



86 BILLIARDS. 



2. Choice op Balls. 

This variety consists in choosing each time which ball the 
player pleases. This is an incalculable advantage, and is 
usually played against losing and winning. 

3. The Bricole Game. 

Bricole is being obliged to strike a cushion, and make the 
ball reverberate or recoil from it previous to hitting the adver- 
sary's ball. This is a great disadvantage ; and is reckoned, 
between equal players, equivalent to about eight or nine 
points. When both players play bricole, the game is usually 
ten points in number, and these are scored from bricole haz- 
ards and forfeitures only.* 

At this game, any player striking the adversary's ball, with- 
out previously making a rebound from the cushion, forfeits 
one point. 

Should the player, after striking his adversary's ball with- 
out a previous rebound from the cushions, pocket his own 
ball, or force it over the table, he forfeits three poinsi. 

And if, after playing bricole, and striking the ball of his 
adversary, he pocket his own ball, or force it over the table, 
he forfeits two points. 

4. The Bar-hole Game. 

This game (now quite obsolete) is so called from the hole 
being barred, which the ball should be played for; and the 
player striking for another hole. When it is played against 
the common game, the advantage for the latter, between equal 
players, is reckoned to be about six points. 

5. Two Pockets to Four 

This game is said to be equal to giving about five in six- 
teen, and all balls that go into the pockets score for the par- 
ties to whom they respectively belong. Canons count. Be- 
tween players of equal strength the odds are very small. 

* Mr Kentfield says u A person to play this game against the * Winning 
and Losing would be giving his adversary immense advantage; for if th» 
player of this game could give his adversary ten out of sixteen at the- ' Win- 
ning and Losing* game, tlie adversary, could give liiiu- tea at this." 

57S 



CRAMP GAMES. 37 



6. One Pocket to Five. 

In this game 3ne of the players has one pocket only, and 
the other player five pockets; the game is scored in the same 
manner as the last, and canons count. The player at it, al- 
though he seems, to those unacquainted with the game, to 
have the worst, has in fact the best of it ;* for as all balls 
which go into the one pocket reckon, the player endeavours 
to lay his ball constantly before that pocket, and his antago- 
nist frequently finds it very difficult to keep one or other ball 
out; particularly at the leads, when th^ one-pocket player 
lays his ball (which he does as often as he can) on the brink 
of the pocket, leading for that purpose from the opposite end 
of the table. This should seem to be a favorite game with 
Mr. Kentfield, as he states that he has played fifty thousand 
games with one gentleman alone. 

7. Side against Side. 

In playing this game, one playei takes the three pockets 
on the one side of the table, and the other takes the three on 
the opposite side; and the game is scored as in the two 
former games. It is of cou se an equal game. 

If the striker has made the last hazard in the game, and 
his adversary takes up a ball off the table, the game is over, 
and the striker wins it, although his ball should afterwards 
go into his adversary's pocket. 

If the striker, after having made the last hazard in the 
game, should take up or move the balls when running, so as 
to prevent them going into his adversary's pocket, he lose3 
the hazard. 

If the striker make a hazard in the adversary's pocket, and 
at the same time forces his ball off the table, the hazard 
scores against him. 

8. Hazards. 

Hazards are so called because they depend entirely upon 
the making of hazards, there being nc account kept of any 

* This is Mr. White's remark, but the justice of it is not apparent. Mr. 
Kentfield and others consider the odds as 60 out of 100, where the players 
are equal; hut when a practised player at this game is opposed to a novicQ| 
the odds arc very much diminished, especially as canons count 

579 



88 BILLIARDS 

game Any number of players may play, by having balls 
which are numbered; but the number seldom exceeds six, to 
avoid confusion. The person, whose ball is put in, pays so 
much to the player, according to what is agreed upon to be 
played for each hazard; and the person who misses pays half 
the price of a hazard to him whose ball he played at. The 
only general rule is not to lay any ball a hazard for the next 
player ; which may be in a great measure avoided by always 
piaying upou the next player, and either bringing him close 
to the cushion, or putting him at a distance from the rest of 
the balls. The table, when hazards are played, is usually 
paid for by the hour. 

9. The Go-back, or Pull-down Game. 

This game is said to be equal to giving about six in the six- 
teen, but all depends on the goodness of the play with regard 
to odds; the better the player the less will be the odds. 
The player of this game must win it at some one interval of 
his adversary's scoring ; for every time the adversary makes 
a canon,* or hazard, all the points which the go-back player 
has made are taken off, and he has to re-commence. Against 
a Kentfield the odds would scarcely avail an inferior or even 
an ordinary player. The game is often played 21 up, some- 
times even 50, giving points. In such cases the odds are of 
course greatly increased. Mr. Kentfield will occasionally 
give the long odds of the Go-back game with one pocket to 
live. 

10. The Doublet Game. 

In this game, which White says is usually played with two 
balls, no hazard is scored unless it is made by a reverberation 
from the cushion. The disadvantage compared with the 
white winuing game, against which it is usually played, is es- 
timated at five points. If played against the Winning and 
Losing Game the odds are increased. It is sometimes played 
as an even game, both players having to play the doublet. 

The game is scored by doubles and canons (when played 
with three balls ;) the losing hazards, without a double, 

* This is Mr. Kentfield'? rule. In London a canon does not take off the 
points already scored, from the go-back player, but only a hazard. 

580 



CRAMP GAMES. 89 

score against the striker, and winning hazards do not score 
at all.* 

When played with three balls as an even game, it becomes 
the established game of French Billiards, and does not 
belong to the class of Cramp Games, although placed here in 
conformity with White's arrangement. 

11. The Commanding Game. 

In this game the adversary has the power of choosing at 
which ball the striker shall play. It is usually played by a 
good player against the common game of an indifferent one, 
and is equal to giving twelve points out of sixteen. The 
following rules are to be observed in addition to those of the 
Winning and Losing Game. 

If the striker play at a different ball from that commanded, 
his adversary may replace the ball so played at. 

If the striker should miss the ball he is commanded to play 
at, and strike the other, he loses one for the miss and the 
balls must be replaced; and, should he make a hazard or 
canon, it does not score. 

If the striker's ball be so situated that he cannot get at the 
ball he is commanded to play at, so as to score, he must give 
a miss, or hit it in the best way he can. 

If the striker's ball be touching one ball, and he is com- 
manded to play at the other, he may, if he can do so without 
moving the bail in contact with his own, score all the points 
he makes by the stroke. 

If the striker is commanded to play at the ball that is 
touching his own, it cannot be a fair stroke. 

13. The Limited Game. 

In this game the table is divided by a line or boundary, 
beyond which the striker cannot pass his ball without a for- 
feiture. It is uninteresting, and rarely played. 

14. The White Ball against the Red. 

One plays at the white ball, and the other at the red, and 
neither of them is allowed, under any circumstances, to play 
at the other ball. As the red hazards score three points, 

* Kentfield. 

60* 581 



40 BILLIARDS. 

while the white score only two, the odds are about six or 
seven out of sixteen. 

15. The Cushion Game 

This whimsical game consists in the striker praying hia 
ball from off the top of the cushion (*". e. the frame ) at the 
baulk end of the table, instead of following his stroke upon 
the table, in the customary manner. It is usually played in 
the winning, or the winning aud losing game ; and the disad- 
vantage, among even players, is estimated at six points. 

16. The Stop, or Non-cushion Game. 

This game is equal to giving about half the points. The 
following are the peculiar rules : — 

If the striker's ball touch the cushion he loses one point ; 
but no more, even though it touch several times. 

If the striker make a canon or hazard, and his ball after- 
wards touch the cushion, he loses one point, and docs not 
score the canon or hazard. 

In playing for a losing hazard, if the ball go into the 
pocket, although it may touch the edge of the cushion in going 
in, it scores, provided it be not by a double from a cushion. 

In playing back at a ball in baulk, the striker is allowed to 
strike one cushion; but if he strike the second he loses one 
point. 

FOREIGN GAMES. 

The French Game 

This game is much the same as our Winning Game, except 
that the players are not confined to the half circle in the 
baulk ; and when the ball is in hand, they must stand within 
the limits of the corner of the table. But the favourite 
game of the French, and the one in which they excel, is the 
" Doublet" game. 

The Russian Game 

This game is played with five balls, and there are several 
ways of playing it, as pocketing the balls in the respective 
pockets, according as they are placed ; the canon counting 
two, three, four, &c, according to the ball from which it is 
made ; following the stroke after making a canon ; not follow* 
582 



FOREIGN GAMES. 41 

ing the stroke after making a canon ; the winning game, the 
lowing game, &c., &g. The following is the general way of 
playing it in this country. 

The balls are two white ones, and a red, a blue, and a yel- 
low one. The red ball is placed on the winning game spot ; 
the blue on the centre of the baulk line, and is considered in 
baulk ; and the yellow in the centre of the table, immediately 
between the two middle pockets. 

The game is forty in number, and is scored by winning 
hazards, canons, and forfeits. 

The red ball may be pocketed in any pocket, and scores 
three ; the blue may be pocketed in any pocket, and scores 
four; the adversary's ball may be pocketed in any pocket, 
and scores two; the yellow ball* must be pocketed in the 
middle pockets only, and scores six ; a canon scores two ; but 
there are no successive canons; that is, you cannot count 
more than one canon at a stroke. 

The striker, in leading off, or when the ball is in hand, is 
not confined to the half circle, but may play his ball any- 
where within the stringing line. 

In leading off, the striker may play his ball out of the 
baulk, to any part of the table he chooses, so that it be made 
to pass beyond the yellow ball ; and his adversary must play 
the first stroke at the white ball. The leader's endeavour, 
therefore, should be to lay his ball as close behind the yellow 
ball as possible. 

If the striker pockets his own ball he loses according to 
the ball he strikes, namely, four for the blue, six for the yel- 
low, two for the white, and three for the red. 

The striker by pocketing his own ball, loses all the points 
that he made by the stroke : so that it would be possible for him 
to lose twenty-one points by one stroke ; that is, if he played 
at the yellow ball, made a canon, and pocketed all the balls. f 

If the player, in giving his lead, touch one of the three 
balls, he loses one point; if two, two points; if three, three 
points ; and the balls must be replaced : and if the striker's 
ball occupy the place of any of the three balls, he must take 
it up and lead over again. 

* In Germany, the yellow ball is called the Caroline or Carline, and thf 
game itself is known under this title. 
t Kenttiold. 

583 



42 BTLLTABD8. 

If the striker force his own ball off the table after making 
a canon or a hazard, he loses all the points he would other- 
wise have gained by the stroke. 

If the striker forces his adversary's ball over the table, be 
gains two points; if the yellow, he gains six; if the red, 
three; if the blue, four. 

The Amebican, ob Foub-ball Game. 

This game is played with four balls ; two white ones, a red 
one, and a blue. 

The game is thirty-one up, and is scored by winning hazards 
and canons. 

The blue ball is placed in the centre of the baulk line, and 
is considered in the baulk ; and the red is placed on the win- 
ning spot. Pocketing the blue ball scores four; the red ball 
scores three; and t e white one scores two. A canon from 
the red to the blue, or from the blue to the red scores three 
points; from the red, or the blue, to the white, two points; 
from the white to the blue, or red, two points; from the blue 
to the white and afterwards to the red, four points; from the 
red to the white and blue, four points ; from the blue to the 
red and white, five points ; and from the red to the blue, 
and afterwards to the white, five points; these being double 
canons. 

The person who leads plays his ball out of baulk to any 
part of the table he chooses, but without striking a ball ; and 
the adversary plays his first stroke at the white ball. 

If the striker in leading off, should strike a ball, his adver- 
sary may compel him to lead again, or have the ball so struck 
replaced, and the white (or striker's ball) must remain where 
it is. 

If the striker pocket his own ball, he loses two, three, or 
four, according to the ball he struck first. 

The Spanish Game.* 

This game is played with three balls, and five wooden pins, 
which are set up in the centre of the table between the two 
middle pockets, about two inches and a quarter apart, form- 
ing a diamond square. 

The game is thirty-one up ; a,r»d is scored by winning 

* Called in German j tnc £.uy*l par lit, or Skettle game. 

584 



THE GAMES OF POOL. 43 

eazards and canons (the same as in the English winning 
game), and by knocking down the pins. 

If the striker, after striking a ball, should knock down a 
pin, he gains two points ; if he knock down two pins, he gains 
f>ur points; and so on, scoring two points for every pin he 
knocks down. If he knock down the middle pin alone, he 
gains five points; but should he knock them all down at one 
stroke, he wins the game. 

If the striker pocket the red ball, he gains three points for 
that, and two for each pin he may knock down at the same 
stroke. 

If the striker pocket the white ball, he gains two points for 
that, and two for each pin he may knock down. 

If the striker knocks down the pins with his own ball, 
before striking another ball, he loses two for every pin he 
knocks down. 

If the striker pocket his own ball from another ball, he 
loses all the points he would otherwise have made by the 
stroke; for instance, if he play at the red ball, pocket it, and 
make a canon, and, at the same time, knock down two pins, 
he loses twelve points ; namely, three for the red, two for the 
canon, two for each pin, and three for his own ball going in 
from the red. 

If the striker causes his own ball to fly tff the table, he 
loses three points ; and if, after making a canon or hazard, he 
loses as many points as he would otherwise have gained. 

All the rules concerning strokes, &c, at the " Winning and 
Losing Game/' may be observed at these games. 

THE GAMES OF POOL. 

In lieu of Fortification Billiards, now altogether obsolete, 
we have " Pool," which is played in several ways. It is some- 
times played with as many balls as there are players, each 
ball being of a different colour; sometimes with only two 
balls, the player playing in turns, and with both balls alter- 
nately. Sometimes the nearest ball is played at; sometimes 
the player selects whichever ball he pleases — but the most 
popular mode is that in which the striker plays at the last 
flayer; and this is considered the fairest game. 

Kule3 and instructions for this game will be found, at 
page G39. 

5S5 



THE GAME OF PYRAMID. 

This game, which consists entirely of winning hazards, 
can be played with any number of balls, or players, but the 
usual number is sixteen, viz., fifteen coloured, and one white. 
Two persons generally play. It is considered excellent prac- 
tice for the player desirous of improvement. 

The game is scored by pocketing the coloured balls : whoever 
has pocketed the greatest number, at the end of the game, wins. 

If the game is played with an even number of balls, the 
last hazard counts but one ; but if with an odd number it 
counts two. 

String for the lead. — The fifteen coloured balls arc placed 
on the table in the form of a triangle; the first, or point, 
being on the winning spot. 

The player plays with the white ball at the coloured ones 
placed as above. Should he not pocket any of the coloured 
balls, the next player plays with the white ball, from tho 
place where it stopped. 

In pocketing one or more of the coloured balls, the player 
continues until he fails. 

Should the player pocket his own ball he must replace, on 
the winning spot, one of the coloured balls he may have 
already holed. Should the spot be occupied by another ball, 
he must place it in a line behind the ball or balls so occupy- 
ing the spot or line. Should the player not have a ball, he 
must place the first he may pocket on the spot ; or, if the 
game shall have been finished before he gains one, he must 
pay the winner one ball extra. 

Missing the balls, the player must spot a ball. 

Making a foul stroke, the player must spot a ball, and the 
next in succession plays. 

Should the player pocket his own ball, and at the same 
time hole one or more of the coloured balls, the balls so holed 
are replaced, and one more is also replaced in consequence of 
the striker having holed his own. 

All the players play with the same ball, except when there 
are only two remaining on the table ; in that case, the last 
striker plays with the white, and the other with the coloured 
ball. 

When only two balls are on the table, should the plajer 
hole his own ball, or make a miss, he loses the game. 
536 



PYRAMID GAME8. 45 

The Losing Game of Pyramid, which has been introduced, 
of late years, differs from the above in consisting entirely of 
losing hazards. The peculiarity in it is, that the player, in 
holing his ball, is not confined to taking the one oft the table 
which he has struck, but may remove any ball he chooses. 

THE GERMAN PYRAMID GAME, (^ranuben^artte.) 

The Pyramid game i3 played in Vienna according to the 
following rules- Twenty-one balls are arranged in the form 
of a triangle, touching one another closely ; this is effected by 
means of a triangular wooden frame in which they are placed 
by the marker, so as to ensure mathematical exactness. The 
frame is removed, and the balls stand on the part of the table 
of which the spot forms the centre, and with the base of the 
t-riangle about a foot distant from the cushion. The object 
of the game is to make a succession of winning hazards, with- 
out failing once, and without making a losing hazard till the 
balls are all in the pockets. 

The player first breaks the mass of bails with his own ball, 
which at the commencement is red, to distinguish it. This 
may be effected either by a strong stroke on the point of the 
triangle, or (in eases where the player is allowed to miss once) 
by a bricole taking the small end of the mass angularly, after 
which he may drive the remainder of the mass before his cue, 
pocketing as many as he can, except the ball he plays with. 
Much depends on the manner in which the balls are broken, 
to ensure a succession of winning strokes into the different 
pockets, and for this purpose it is best for the balls to be spread 
well over the table. The player selects whichever ball he 
pleases to play at any other ball so as to make a winning stroke 
each time. He is not limited in his choice of balls either to 
play with or at, only he is bound to make a winning hazard 
every stroke, and never to pocket the ball he plays with. The 
first failure forfeits the stroke, and the game has to be placed 
for another player. It is also necessary that three balls should 
be holed in each pocket, leaving two others to be disposed of at 
pleasure. The last stroke of all should be with the red ball, 
pocketing the last white ball and at the same time losing the 
red, either by a foil >wing stroke or a twist, or any other mode 
of obtaining a losing hazard in the usual games. Should ajl 
these conditions be fulfilled and the table be cleared in twenty 

587 



46 BILLIARDS. 

successive strokes, with at least three balls in each pocket, the 
player obtains the highest degroe of success, and scores 398. 
Should he not succeed in losing his own ball at the last, as 
well as pocketing, only half, 199, is scored. If he misses a 
stroke, so that the game is up, before all the balls are pocketed, 
the score is determined by the number in the pockets, pro- 
vided each pocket is found to contain at least one ball. The 
score then is in proportion to the number distributed; as, each 
ball of three in a pocket counts for more than if it were only 
one of two ; if any pocket has only one ball, it lessens the 
value of each of those, however numerous, in the other pockets, 
and a single pocket remaining empty renders the whole void, 
and nothing is scored for the game, whatever number of balls 
may have been made in other pockets. It is usual for the 
marker to walk round the table during the play, and warn the 
striker how many balls are already placed ; otherwise too 
many might be played in the same pocket, or some be wholly 
neglected till too late in the game to remedy the deficiency. 
The same assistance is often complaisantly given by the ad- 
versary, who is perfectly inactive during the alternate games. 
It is, in fact, a sort of solitaire for each player in turn. 

When the first game is over, whether successfully, or other- 
wise, and the score, if any, marked up, the balls are placed in 
the same manner for the second player, and after he is out, the 
first player resumes; and so on in succession. The scores of 
the games on each side are added up at the end of the match, 
aud he who has scored most, wins, the bets being generally 
regulated by the number of points. A very small coin, or 
imaginary fraction of a coin betted on each point, will make 
the game vary sufficiently for speculation ; thus, betting a 
quarter of a kreutzer (viz., the 12th part of a penny) the win- 
ner of a single game 398 wins about 3 florins (6 shillings) a 
head of his adversary, or, betting a single kreutzer (one-third 
of a penny) is twenty-four shillings a head on a single game, 
which, unless his adversary succeeds in scoring a complete 
game also, is difficult to recover in scores of smaller amount, 
which usually run only from about 30 to 80 points. 

Odds are given by allowing the inferior player to make one, 
two, or three faults (Fehler) in the game ; t. «., missing hia 
ball, or his stroke, or losing his own ball, so many times in 
the game. 
588 



PYRAMID GAMES. — HANDICAP SWEEPSTAKES. 47 

There is less difficulty in playing the Pyramid on a German 
table, than on those used in England, the pockets being cut 
into the table, instead of being bags which extend beyond it ; 
so that in the case of two cushioned balls, either might pocket 
the other bv a straight stroke, which on our tables would be 
next to impossible ; and, indeed, very considerable skill would 
be required to complete the game of 398 on such a table, 
without some ( practice of the peculiar style of game required. 
The great art consists in varying the stroke, from one pocket 
to another, so as to make sure of filling all, the player usually 
keeping the ball he plays with nearly stationary, by a ccnip 
sec (i. e., striking the ball very low,) in order to place it for 
the next stroke, and also to avoid the risk of a losing hazard 
by too strong play. The Pyramid game is very «• w piao- 
ticc for acquiring a variety of winning stro^ . aitlicuH 
straight hazards, &c, and especially for placing v Miy hali * 

SAUSAGE GAME. (tffiurir^artie.; 
A variety of the Pyramid game was much in voguo a few 
years since at Vienna, under the name of the Wurst-partio, n 
Sausage Game, so named from the resemblance which t'.d 
mass of balls, when placed for the first stroke, had to a large 
sausage. In this game the balls are only fifteen, consequently 
two are to be placed in each pocket, instead of three, as in 
the other game. The marking varies accordingly. The balls 
at the commencement of each game are arranged in a straight 
line from the cushion to the red spot, by means of two cues, 
and the mass is then broken by a hard-played ball from the 
baulk, diagonally, against the first ball of the mass. The 
game, when complete, scores 64 points. 

Handicap Sweepstakes. 
Three or more persons can play, and the game may extend 
to any number of points agreed upon. Draw lots for the 
order of starting. The red ball is spotted. No. 1 plays first ; 
No. 2 follows; and the rest in rotation. The number of 
points made by the player, in each inning, are marked upon 
the slate, and when he has ceased to score, the next playei 
commences. If a miss be made, one point is taken from the 
player's score, and the others do not reap any further ad van- 

* The balls used in the Pyramid games are generally rather smaller than 
those m the Garaiiibole games. 

51* 589 



48 BILLIARDS. 

tage. Should the player hole his ball without striking 
another, he loses three joints. When the balls touch, there 
cannot be any score ; they must in such case be broken, the 
red ball spotted, and the next in succession plays. Whatever 
the game may be, that person is the winner whose aggregate 
amount of the scores made in the several innings, first com- 
pletes the number specified. When there are several persons 
desirous of occupying the table, they will tind sweepstakes 
very amusing; and if inferior players receive an adequate 
number of points each person can have a fair chance of win- 
nin"-. At Brighton, this method of amusing many persons 
at ome, is very popular; and it has frequently occurred, that, 
in sweepstakes, handicapped by Mr. Kentiield, four or five 
players have been at the close within one or two hazards of 
Winning the game. It is also very attractive to spectators, 
and promotes a great deal of speculation and excitement. 

A Match of Four. 

When four persons play this game, thirty-one is the number 
played for, and each player is at liberty to offer his partner 
advice, unless it be directly stipulated to the contrary. The 
pocketing of your ball, whether by your adversary's winning 
hazard, or your own losing hazard, or two misses without an 
intervening hazard, or a coup put out; but not a canon. A 
player must have played one stroke before he can be put out. 

The Game of Three, or A la Royale. 

This game is played as at the winning and losing game, 
by three persons, each scoring his own game. 

The mode of playing it is as follows : — The three players 
string for the lead. The ball which is nearest to the cushion 
has the first choice, and the second nearest, the second. The 
one that has to lead off, plays, the second follows, playing 
with the other white ball. The third plays with the ball the 
first played with, the first with the ball the second played 
with, and so on, each taking it in turn, and changing the 
balls alternately. He wno first completes the score wins the 
game ; the other two losing a game each. 

All forfeits, such as misses, coups, etc., score for both the 
adversaries. If the two adversaries are so near together at 
the close of the game, that the forfeiture, whatever it may be, 
600 



WINNING AND LOSING CARAMBOLE GAME — RULES. 49 

makes them both out, he whose turn it was to play next wins 
the game. 

All the rules of the winning and losing game are to be 
observed at this. 

CHAPTER IV. 
RULES, DIRECTIONS, AND EXAMPLES 

FOR PLAYING THE VARIOUS GAMES OF BILLIARDS DESCRIBED 
IN THE PRECEDING PAGES. 

OP THE WINNING AND LOSING CARAMBOLE GAME. 

As the winning and losing carambole.is now the established 
game, and all others are regarded merely as varieties, it takes 
precedence in this division of the work, although not in the 
order of its chrouology. Indeed, it has been fouud conve- 
nient for the sake of reference to the rules and examples, to 
reverse the order of several of the varieties, placing them 
rather according to their claims than their previous numerical 
position. 

The winning and losing carambole has been referred to at 
page 576. We now proceed to give the details. 

Section I. — Rules and Regulations. 

Of Stringing for Lead. 

1. The game is to commence by stringing for the lead and 
the choice of balls. The player must place his ball within 
the striking ring ; and, if his adversary require it, he must 
stand within the limits of the corner of the table. He whose 
ball rests nearest to the cushion, at the baulk end of the table, 
wins the lead, and chooses his ball. 

2. If, after the first person has strung for the lead, his ad- 
versary who follows him should make his ball touch the other, 
he loses the lead. 

3. If the player holes his own ball, either in stringing or 
leading, he loses the lead.* 

4. If the leader follow his ball with either mace or cue 
beyond the middle pocket, it is no stroke : and if his adver- 
sary chooses, he may require him to lead again. 

• The terms to hole, and to pocket, are used indifferently, and mean the 
same thing. 

591 



50 BILLIARDS. 



Position of the Balls. 

5. The red ball is to be placed on the furthest of the two 
spots, at the upper end of the table (which is generally within 
thirteen inches of the cushion.) 

6. When either of the white balls is in hand, that is, baa 
been holed, or forced off the table, it must be played from the 
striking ring, when it is the striker's turn to play, as at the 
commencement of the game. The ball, it may be observed, 
must be made to pass the line by a regular stroke, and not 
merely be laid conveniently within the baulk, on the plea of 
scoring a miss. When it is wished to place the ball in baulk, 
it must be reverberated from one of the cushions outside the 
line. 

7. When the red ball has been holed or forced over the 
table, it must be replaced on the same spot where it origi- 
nally stood, at the beginning of the game, and the present 
striker is bound to see it thus replaced, otherwise he can win 
no points while it is off the spot, and the stroke he may make 
is to be deemed foul. But it must not be replaced until the 
balls have done rolling, as the stroke is not finished till the 
balls stop. 

8. After the adversary's ball is off the table, and the two 
remaining balls are either within the baulk line or upon it (then 
called line balls,) they are " in baulk :" and the striker must 
play from the ring against a cushion outside the baulk, so as 
to occasion his ball in returning to hit one of the balls in the 
baulk (which if he does not, he loses one point; see Penalties.) 

9. When the red ball is pocketed, or off the table, and the 
spot on which it should stand is occupied by the white ball, 
it must be placed in a corresponding situation at the other 
end of the table ; but if that should be occupied also by the 
other white ball, it must be placed in the centre of the table, 
immediately between the two middle pockets ; and wherever 
it is placed, there it must remain, until it be played, or the 
game be over.* 

10. If a ball is made to go to the brink of a pocket, and after 

* It is the custom of some billiard rooms, if the .--pot be occupied by the 
white ball, to place the red ball in the centra of the table; but it is much 
more common to place it at tne other eiid ; besides, the situation is more 
uniform. — Keutfield 

592 



WINNING AND LOSING CARAMBOLE GAME. — RULES. 51 

sensibly standing still, should fall into it, the striker wins 
nothing, and the ball must be put on the same brink where it 
stood, before the adversary makes his next stroke ; and should 
it again fall into the pocket at the instant the striker has 
played upon his ball, and before it touches so as to prevent 
the success of his stroke, the striker's and the adversary's 
balls must be replaced in their original position, or as near as 
possible thereto, and the striker must play again. 

11. If the marker, or a bj'stander, touch either of the balls, 
whether it be running or not, it must be placed as near as 
possible to the place it did or would apparently have occupied. 

Mode of reckoning the Points. 

(The principle of calculation , it will be perceived, is, flat, 
balls pocketed off the white, without iouchiiuj the red, count for 
two, that the red, or the balls which touch it, when pocket**!, 
count for three, and canons, whether off white or red, invaria- 
bly for two.) 

12. If the striker hits both the red and his adversary's 
ball with the ball he played with, he wins two points. This 
stroke is called a canon. 

13. If the striker with his own ball holes his adversary's 
ball he wins two points. This is called a white winning 
hazard. 

14. If the striker holes his own ball off his adversary's 
ball, he wins two points. This is called a white losing hazard. 

15. If the striker holes the red ball, he wins three points. 
This is called a red winning hazard. 

16. If the striker holes his own ball off the red ball, he 
wins three points, which is called the red losing hazard. 

17. If the striker holes both his adversary's and the red 
ball, he wins five points. If, by playing at the red ball, he 
holes his own, and the red ball, he wins six points. 

18. If the striker, by striking the white balls first, holes 
both his own and his adversary's ball, he wins four points. 
And if, by striking at the red ball first, he should hole both 
bis own and his adversary's ball, he wins five points : — three 
for holing his own ball off the red, and two for holing the 
white ball. 

19. If the striker plays at his adversary's ball first, and 

51* 59U 



62 BILLIARDS. 

should hole his own ball and the red, he wins five points :— 
two for holing his own ball off the white, and tnree for holing 
the red ball. 

20. If the striker plays at his adversary's ball, and holes 
it, at the same time that he pockets bis own ball, and the red, 
he wins seven points : — two for holing his own ball off the 
white ; two for holing his adversary's ball ; and three for 
holing the red ball. 

21. If the striker plays at the red, and holes his own ball 
off the red, and the red ball, and his adversary's, by the same 
stroke, he wins eight points : — three for holing his own ball 
off the red ; three for holing the red ball ; and two for holing 
the white ball. 

22. If the striker makes a canon, and pockets the red ball, 
he wins five points : — two for the canon, and three for the red 
hazard. 

23. If the striker canons, and holes both the red and his 
adversary's ball, he gains seven points : — two for the canon ; 
two for the white ; and three for the red ball. 

24. If the striker makes a canon, by striking the white 
ball first, and should hole either his own ball or his adversary's 
by the same stroke, he wins four points : — two for the canon, 
and two for the white losing hazard. 

25. If the striker makes a canon by striking the red ball 
first, and by the same stroke should pocket his own ball, he 
wins five points : — two for the canon, and three for the red 
losing hazard. 

26. If the striker plays at the white ball first, and should 
make a canon, and at the same time hole his own and his 
adversary's ball, he wins six points : — two for the canon, and 
two for each white hazard. 

27. If the striker plays at the red bal. first, and should 
canon, and by the same stroke hole his own and his adver- 
sary's ball, he gains seven points : — two for the canon ; three 
for the red hazard ; and two for the white hazard. 

28. If the striker canons, by playing first at the white ball, 
and also hole his own and the red ball, he wins seven points : 
— two for the canon ; two for the white losing hazard ; and 
three for the red winning hazard. 

29. If the striker canons by striking the red ball first, and 
at the same time should hole his own, and the red ball, he 

694 



WINNING AND LOSING CARAMBOLE GAME. — RULES. 53 

wins eight points : — two for the canon ; three for the ied 
losing, and three for the red winning hazard. 

30. If the striker makes a canon by striking the white 
ball first, and should hole his own ball, and his adversary's, 
and the red ball, he wins nine points : — two for the canon ; 
two for each of the white hazards ; and three for the red 
hazard. 

31. If the striker makes a canon by striking the red ball 
first, and by the same stroke should hole his own ball, and 
the red, and his adversary's white ball, he gains ten points : 
— two for. the canon; three for the red losing hazard; three 
for the red winning hazard ; and two for the white winning 
hazard. 

32. As long as the striker can make points, he continues 
game, until he ceases to count. 



Penalties 

33. If the striker does not hit his adversary's ball, he loses 
one point ; if by the same strokes he pockets his own ball, he 
loses three points (that is to say, his adversary scores so many 
points) and the lead.* This is called a coup. 

34. If the striker happens to force either of the balls off 
the table, any points made by it do not count, and he loses 
the lead. If a ball lodges on the top of a cushion or springs 
from the table and strikes one of the players, or a bystander, 
so as to prevent its falling on the floor, it must be considered 
as off the table. 

35. If the striker forces his own or either of the other 
balls over the table, after having made a canon or hazard, he 
gains nothing by the points he would otherwise have obtained, 
and loses the lead ; and his adversary may, if he chooses, 
play on without breaking the balls. 

36 If the striker wilfully forces his own ball off the table 
without striking another ball, he loses three points; but if 

* When the striker gives his adversary a point, by miming intentionally, 
it is sometimes required that he pass his hall heyond the middle pocket ; 
or in the case of his adversary having the baulk, that he pass both the 
other balls bv »layiug hi cvle ; but these are rules uow seldom enforced. 

595 



54 BILLIARDS. 

the ball goes over by accident, he loses one point only for the 
miss * 

37. If the striker, in the act of striking, touches his ball, 
and make his mace or cue go over or past it, he loses one 
point. 

38. If the striker's ball is over the pocket, and he should, 
in the act of striking, miss it, but in drawing his cue back 
should knock it into the pocket, he loses three points, this 
being a coup. 

39. Whoever proposes to break the balls, and his adver- 
sary agrees to it, the person who made the proposal loses the 
lead. 

40. If the striker interrupts the course of his own ball, 
when it is running towards a pocket, after having made a 
miss, and it is the opinion of the marker that it would have 
been a coup, that is, have entered the pocket, had it not been 
interrupted, he loses three points. 

41. If the striker interrupt, stop, or put his adversary's 
ball out of its course, when running towards or into a pocket, 
he is subjected to the same forfeiture. 

42. If, after the striker has played, the adversary should 
obstruct or accelerate the running of the balls in any way, it 
is at the striker's option to make it a foul stroke and break 
the balls, or have them replaced. 

43. He who blows upon a ball when running, makes the 
stroke foul ; and if his own ball was running towards a pocket, 
or near a pocket, and he is seen by his adversary to blow upon 
it, he loses two points. 

44. If after the striker has made a canon or a hazard, he 
takes up the ball, thinking the game is over, the adversary 
has the option of breaking the balls, or having them replaced. 

45. If after the striker has made a miss, or a coup, he takes 
up a ball, supposing the game to be over, he loses the game. 

46. If after the striker has made a miss or a coup, the 
adversary, thinking the game is over, takes up a ball, he, (the 
last striker) may have the balls replaced as they were, or 
break the balls. 

* To a person conversant with the game, it is not a very difficult thing to 
discern whether a ball is forced over the table wilfully or not; and it would 
be severe upon the striker to be compelled to lose three points for what may 
bo the fault of the table 

596 



WINNING AND LOSING CARAMBOLE GAME. — RULES 55 

47. If after the striker has made a canon or hazard, the 
adversary thinking the game is over when it is not, takes up 
a ball (whether running or not) he loses the game. 



Foul Strokes. 

48. If the striker plays with the wrong ball, it is deemed 
» foul stroke. 

49. If the striker, after having made a hazard or canon, 
should move either of the balls which remain upon the table, 
the stroke is deemed foul. 

50. If a player, in the act of striking, touch his ball with 
the instrument twice, the stroke is deemed foul. 

51. If the striker's ball be in hand, and the other two balls 
within the baulk, and should he either by accident or design, 
strike one or both of them, without first playing out of the 
baulk, the adversary has the option of letting the balls remain 
as they are, and scoring a miss, — of having the balls replaced 
in their original position, and scoring a miss, — of making the 
striker phiy the stroke over again, — or of making it a foul 
stroke, and breaking the balls.* 

5'2. If the striker should accidentally touch or move his 
own ball, without intending at the time to make a stroke, he 
loses no point ; but the adversary may put the ball back in 
the place where it stood. Should it not be replaced before 
the stroke is made, the adversary may claim a foul stroke. 

53. If the striker's ball be in hand, and he play, at a 
cushion within the baulk, in order to strike a ball that is out 
of it, it is a foul stroke. 

54. No one has a right to take up or otherwise move a ball, 
without permission of the adversary. And if in the course 
of the game, a person take up a ball, supposing it to be in 
hand, the adversary may break the balls, or have them 
replaced to his own satisfaction. 

* Breaking the balls is to take them all off the table, place the red on its 
•pot, and for both parties to begin again from the baulk. 

At first sight this would appear a harsh rule, with a heavy penalty an- 
nexed to it; but perhaps the adverse party may have laid Ins plans with 
skill, and he must not, therefore, have them unfairly frustrated with impu- 
nity. Besides, care must be taken that tho adversary be not a sufferer by 
the unfair play, or blunders, of the striker. 

597 



56 BILLIARDS. 

55. If either of the players, in the act of striking, happens 
to move his own, tne adversary's, or the red ball, from the 
place it occupied on the table, the stroke is deemed foul. 

56. If the striker's ball be close to the ball he plays at, 
and he plays the stroke with the point of the cue, it is fair ; 
but if he plays it with the butt-end, the marker must decide 
whether it be foul or fair.* 

57. If the striker plays upon a ball which is still running, 
the stroke is considered foul. 

58. Whoever stops a ball when running, either with the 
hand, the instrument with which he play*, or otherwise, losea 
the lead ; if his adversary does not like the ball he has to 
play at the next stroke. 

59. If the striker, after having made a hazard, or canon, 
interrupts or alters the course of bis own ball, the stroke is 
foul ; aud he cannot score any of the points he may have thua 
made. 

60. If the striker plays with both feet off the ground, the 
stroke is deemed foul. 

61. Whoever strikes the table when the ball is running, 
makes the stroke foul. 

62. If the striker throws his mace or cue upon the table, 
so as to baulk his adversary, he causes him to make a foul 
stroke. 

63. If the striker, in playing a stroke, should make his 
mace or cue touch both balls at the same time, it is deemed 
a foul stroke, and if discovered by his adversary, he wins 
nothing for any points he may make by the stroke, and his 
adversary may break or part the balls. 

64. All misses to be given with the point of the cue, and 
the ball struck only once ; if otherwise given, the adversary 
may claim it as a foul stroke, and enforce the penalty, or may 
make the striker play the stroke over again, or have the ball 
or balls replaced where they stood. 

65. Whenever a foul stroke is made, it is at the option of 
the adversary either to break the balls, and play from the 
striking ring, as at the beginning of the game, or if the balls 
happen to be in a favourable position for himself, to sutler 

* N. B. — The principle which ought to govern the decision of the marker 
in such a case is this, namely, that the striker's butt must quit his ball 
before it comes iu contact witu the other ball. 

69$ 



WINNING AND LOSING CARAMBOLE GAME. — RULES. 57 

the preceding striker to score the points he may have made ; 
which the marker is obliged to do, in every case where the 
balls are not broken.* 

Of Bystanders. 

66. The adversary only, and not a bystander, is bound to 
see that the striker plays fair, which if he neglect to do, the 
striker wins all the points he may have made by that parti- 
cular stroke, and the marker is obliged to score them. 

67. No person has a right to proclaim whether a stroke be 
fair or foul until asked, unless they are playing a four match ; 
and in that case none but the player and his partner have a 
right to ask it. And no person, except the adversary, has a 
right to inform the striker that he has played, or is about to 
play, with the wrong ball. 

68. Should a dispute arise between the players concerning 
the fairness of ' a stroke, the marker alone is authorized to 
decide the question, and from his decision there is no appeal : 
but if, through inattention, he happen to be incompetent to 
make the required decision, he should inquire the particulars 
of the case from disinterested bystanders, and, upon demand- 
ing silence, should go round the table to each person sepa- 
rately, and be particularly careful to ask if he has any bet 
depending thereon, if he understands the game, and the 
nature of the dispute then in question. And the majority 
of the disinterested company present may decide the dispute. 
But no person has any right to interfere until appealed to by 
one or both players. 

Miscellaneous. 

69. If the striker plays with the wrong ball, and a canon 
or hazard be made thereby, the adversary may have the balls 
broken j but if nothing be made by the stroke, he (the adver- 
sary) may take his choice of balls the next stroke, and with 
the ball he chooses he must continue to play until the game 
is over. But the playing with the wrong ball must be dis- 
covered before the next stroke is played, otherwise, no penalty 
attaches to it. 

* Enforcing the penalty for a foul stroke is entirely at the option of the 
adversary. 

599 



58 3ILL1ARDS. 

70. If the adveisary does not see the striker play with the 
wrong ball, or seeing it, does not choose to enforce the penalty, 
the marker is bound to score all the points that may have 
been made by the stroke. 

71. If a player in the act of striking, is baffled or im- 
peded in his stroke by his adversary or a spectator, he has a 
right to recommence his stroke. 

7'2. If the striker, in attempting to make a stroke, does 
not touch his ball, it is no stroke. 

73. If the striker in taking aim moves his ball, so as to 
strike the ball he is playing at, without intending to strike it, 
it is a stroke, and must pass as such, unless the adversary 
chooses to let him play the stroke over again. 

74. If the striker, in the act of striking moves his ball ever 
so little, it is a stroke. 

75. If the striker's ball be in hand, and he in playing from 
the baulk, should move his ball in the act of striking, it is a 
stroke, although the ball should not go out of the baulk ; but 
the adversary may if he chooses, compel him to play the 
stroke over again. 

76. If a ball is found to have been changed during the 
course of the game, and it is not known by which player, the 
game must be played out with the balls as they then are, 
even though only two strokes may have been made before the 
mistake is discovered. 

77. He who leaves the game before it is finished, and will 
not play it out, loses the game, although he may only have 
made one stroke. 

78. If a person agrees to play with the cue, he is obliged 
to play with it during the whole of the game or the match ; 
but if no agreement has been previously made, he may at any 
time change it for the mace, and vice versa : neither party, 
in such case, having any right to object to either mace or cue 
being played with in the said match. But when the parties 
agree to play mace against cue, the mace player has no right 
to use a cue, nor has the cue player any right to use a mace, 
without permission from his adversary. 

79. When a person agrees to play with a cue, he must play 
every ball within his reach with the point thereof; and if he 
agrees to play with the butt of the cue, he has no right at 
any time to play with the point, without permission. Also, 

600 



WINNING AND LOSING CARAMBOLE GAME — RULES. 59 

when the parties agree to play point and point of the cue, 
neither of them has any right to use the butt, during the 
match, without permission ; but every person who plays with 
a cue may when he thinks proper use a long one, and in 
some cases he may play with the point of a loug cue to great 
advantage. 

80. With regard to betting. — Each person who proposes a 
bet, should be very cautious to name the precise sum ; and 
also should be extremely careful not to offer a bet when the 
striker has taken his aim, or is going to strike, lest it may 
disturb or interrupt him; and no bet ought to be proposed 
on any stroke, that may have any tendency to influence or 
lessen the judgment of the player. If A proposes a bet 
which is accepted by B, it must be confirmed by A, other- 
wise it is no bet. If any bets are laid on the hazard, and the 
striker should lose the game by a miss at the stroke in ques- 
tion, it cannot be a hazard : the game being out by a miss. 
In all cases those who bet are to abide by the determination 
of the players, and the betters have a right to demand their 
money, when their game is over, to prevent disputes.* 

81. Every person ought to be very attentive, and listen for 
the stroke, before he opens the door of a billiard-room. 

82. The striker has a right to command his adversary not 
to stand facing him or near him, so as to annoy or molest him 
in his stroke. 

83. Each party is to take care of his own game, and his 
adversary has no right to answer any questions : as — If the 
ball be close? — If he touch the ball? &c, &c. These and 
other similar circumstances the player is to discover himself. 

84. The marker should be careful to make those persons 
who do not play, stand from the table, and give room for the 
players to pass freely round. 

85. Those who play, ought to be particularly careful and 
attentive to their strokes, when any bets are depending 
thereon ) but even should they play carelessly, the bets must 
in every case be decided by the event of their strokes. 

* ^Vith regard to betting, we may here take occasion to observe that 
players in the least degree nervous should never buck themselves for a 
stake which can make them feel anxious. The best players are' apt to be 
disturbed in their play by the excitement occasioned, and inferior playei'3 
have been known to be quite prostrated by it, and even to have fainted 
away. 

52 601 



60 BILLIARDS. 

86. No person has any right to chalk or otherwise mart the 
cushions or table, for the purpose of directing the angles. 

87. No person has any right to discover to the player in 
what maiiner he may play his ball to the greatest advantage. 
This is often done by signs, winks, and various gestures; and 
when discovered by the adversary, he may prevent the striker 
from scoring the points he may have made by the stroke. 
Neither, after a stroke has been pla} T ed, hath any one a right 
to detect any error the striker may have committed, as a 
stroke of the same kind may occur repeatedly in the same 
game 

SECTION II. 

General Instructions.* 

1. After having strung for lead, in playing first, if the 
match be pretty equal, and no considerable odds are given, it 
will be prudent to miss the red ball intentionally, and lay 
yourself in the baulk, about midway between the striking ring 
and one of the side cushions, in an advantageous position, to 
enable you to take advantage of any hazard your adversary 
may leave after the succeeding stroke : but if you give con- 
siderable odds, then bring the red ball into the baulk, in such 
a way, as either to double it into the corner pocket, or failing 
in this, to leave it at some distance from it. This is to be 
effected by placing your ball at one extremity of the ring, and 
striking a high stroke full upon the red ball, with a strength 
just sufficient to make it recede a little from the cushion, when 
brought to the bottom of the table, by which you will leave 
your own ball near to the side cushion at the top. Avoid 
placing it close to the cushion, as the adversary, taking advan- 
tage of your crippled position, might play for a score that he 
would not, under other circumstances, have attempted. Many 
make it their object to bring both balls into the baulk, by 
playing a half ball strong upon the red ; but this is too haz- 
ardous to be generally attempted, as its failure must in every 
case be attended with the utmost risk. It is possible for the 

* These are, with scarcely an exception, White's directions, and incul- 
cate the policy of leaving no chance whatever to your adversary ; but they 
are overstrained, and a player who followed them rigidly, would be as little 
likelv to receive pleasure in the game as to alTord it to his antagonist.— 
H G B. 

602 



WINNING AND LOSING CARAM. GAME. — INSTRUCTIONS. 61 

striker to pocket the red ball off the spot; and Mr. Pratt can 
generally accomplish this feat, and has taught it to others suc- 
cessfully ; but it is a very hazardous stroke, and failure would 
be very likely to leave the balls in a dangerous position. 

2. If you are second player, and your adversary has pre- 
viously given a miss, and brought his ball into the baulk, 
endeavour so to lay your own and the red ball that he may 
obtain no points at the succeeding stroke. This is most effect- 
ually done by striking half a ball gently on the red, so as to 
bring it, after recoiling from the top cushion, almost close, 
about midway between the middle and top pockets ; and your 
own ball, in consequence, nearly in the same position, on the 
opposite side of the table : but if by his first stroke he has 
brought the red ball into the baulk, and left himself above 
the middle pocket, and in such a situation as to afford you no 
losing hazard, then carry his ball gently towards the corner 
pocket, so as to lay it close under the cushion, if you fail in 
your attempt to hole it. 

3. In playing bricole* (from the cushion), in order to strike 
a ball situated in the baulk, remember the axiom that " the 
angle of reflexion will always equal the angle of incidence." 
Figs. 27, and 28, are diagrams representing the different 
angles, which more especially require the attention of the 
striker. From these, it will be seen, that, in such cases, there 
are two modes of playing : 1. To strike at the top cushion, 
in order to make the stroke by one simple reverberation; 2. 
To direct the ball to the corner or side cushion, in order that 
it may be twice reverberated, and enter the baulk obliquely : 
the former is the safer and easiest, the latter is the most ad- 
vantageous in certain situations of the balls, as it enables the 
striker to canon under a greater variety of circumstance 6 
In every case it is of importance to observe one caution, 
namely, to play with sufficient strength to bring your ball 
out of the reach of your adversary, if you fail in the object 
of the stroke. 

4. Never make a stroke without some object in view, as by 
so doing, you may leave incalculable advantages to your ad- 
versary. This is a fault with most young players; they strike 
the balls at random, and depend more upon the chances of the 

* " Playing back," as the modern phrase goes. 

603 



62 BILLIARDS. 

table than their own foresight : a fortunate hazard left after 
a random stroke of this description, leaves the game open, and 
often leads the way to a series of losses; for a skilful plajer 
will not only make the points he more immediately plays for, 
but will endeavour at the same time to lay the balls in such 
a position, as to ensure himself a hazard the next stroke. 

6. Always choose that mode of play by which you have a 
chance of gaining most points, provided you can do so with- 
out risk ; but if you are diffident of your own ability, or from 
the situation of the adversary, it is probable that the conse- 
quence of a failure would be a certain hazard in his favour, 
either decline the chance altogether, and lay the balls safe, or 
make that stroke which seems most sure and easy. 

6. When the balls are situated so disadvantageously, as to 
leave no probability of your scoring off of them, let it be your 
object to lay your adversary in such a part of the table, that 
he also may make no point; namely, either close to the 
cushion, or out of any favourable angle. The player will be, 
caeteris paribus, invariably most successful, who defends his 
game with the greatest address. 

7. Whenever your adversary's ball is off the table, in con- 
sequence of having been just pocketed, sacrifice every doubtful 
hazard to the object of bringing both balls into baulk. 

8. Never play at your adversary when he is close under the 
cushion. It i3 always better in this case to choose the red 
ball, and if you despair of scoring upon it, to lay it for a 
hazard in that part of the table most distant from where your 
adversary is situated ; for if he miss in consequence of his 
disadvantageous position, you have, by this means, a chance 
of gaining four points ; if he strike either ball, there are five 
chances to one you lose nothing by the stroke, provided the 
balls have been laid properly. 

9. Never play at the red ball when your adversary's ball is 
near in, without you have a certain hazard or canon before 
you. Under such circumstances, if the white ball afford no 
favourable hazard, it is more advisable to drop it to the other 
extremity of the table, so as either to make it in the corner 
pocket, or lay it close under the cushion. 

10. When you are ahead in the game, play at the white ball, 
in every case in which the red presents no tolerably certain 
hazard ; and in playing at your adversary's ball, always have 

604 



WINNING AND LOSING CARAM. GAME. — INSTRUCTIONS. 68 

two objects in view; first, to make the desired points; and, 
secondly, to lay your own ball safe, if you happen to fail. 
On the contrary, when you are backward in the game, and a 
tolerable red hazard presents itself, it will be right to prefer 
it to the white. The propriety of this caution is obvious, for 
the red ball being the common object of both players, it is 
two to one you leave a hazard, if you don't succeed in scoring ; 
whereas, in playing with a due degree of caution at your ad- 
versary, the chances are more than equal that you leave 
nothing for him, if you fail to obtain the desired object. 

11. Never vary your mode of striking by using the high or 
low strokes, without the necessity of doing so be obvious ; for 
by frequent needless strokes of this kind, you run the risk, 
either of missing your cue, or striking the ball ineffectually ; 
for a considerable degree of dexterity is required, in such 
cases, to prevent it acquiring an uneven motion, or assuming 
an unfavorable position. The cases which more especially 
make it requisite to strike under the centre of the ball, are, 
1st, The position of the balls being such as to render the com- 
mon mode of striking insufficient for obtaining the desired 
end : such is the case with regard to losing hazards, when 
the pocket and the two balls form less than a right angle ; as 
also of canons, when the three balls are in a similar relative 
position : 2dly, When it is desirable to use only a gentle 
strength, with the design either of keeping the baulk, or re- 
taining the balls above or below the middle pockets, at the 
same time that you attempt to make a losing hazard in the 
corner pocket ; for an inconsiderable degree of strength thus 
employed, will be found adequate to a forcible stroke made in 
the common way of playing — The chief design of striking 
over the centre, is to make the balls follow each other into a 
pocket, or to effect canons under circumstances where only an 
inconsiderable deviation from the straight line is required. 

12. Although you may be greatly ahead in the game, never 
strike at the wrong ball by way of experiment, nor otherwise 
play carelessly ; supposing it impossible for your adyersary 
to get up with you ; for by an unlucky stroke on your part, he 
may even win the game, although previously under the most 
adverse circumstances. There are so many accidental chances 
in the game of billiards, that it should never be considered as 
certain, until the whole number of points are actually made 

44 605 



64 BILLIARDS. 

13. Wken you are close under a cushion, or otherwise situ 
ated so unfavourably as to despair of scoring, and you run the 
risk of leaving the balls to a disadvantage by the attempt, if 
there is little probability of your adversary's making the red 
hazard at his next stroke, it will be better, in all cases, to giv8 
an advantageous miss, than to run the chance of missing un- 
intentionally, and thereby leaving a hazard or canon ; and do 
not be deterred from this, by the circumstance of your adver- 
sary being ahead of the game. It is good play in many cases, 
thus to give him a miss, when he even wants two only of 
being up. Your opponent, obliged to play from a cramped 
position, will, in all probability, leave a good break. 

14. Never be too solicitous about making canons in unto- 
ward situations of the balls, as by vain attempts, you run the 
risk of leaving advantages to your adversary. On the con- 
trary a canon sometimes made happily under particular cir- 
cumstances, where there are future objects in view, is followed 
by repeated successes, and gives a turn to the game in your 
favour. 

15. Never play for the losing hazard when by so doing you 
must leave your adversary the baulk ; for in this case you are 
likely, in the end, to lose more points than you have gained 
by the stroke : in the first place, a probable miss from the 
cushion, and afterwards, perhap?, the red hazard. 

16. Never make the white winning hazard when the balls 
afford any otlier mode of scoring, unless you will be enabled to 
make a baulk by your succeeding stroke. It is always bet- 
ter to have three balls upon the table than two ; and by 
pocketing the white ball when the red ball is situated unfa- 
vourably for a baulk or hazard, you give to the adversary an 
important advantage in his having the striking ring to play 
from. 

17. Whenever you hole your adversary's ball, and the red 
ball remains upon or near the spot, and you are doubtful of 
making the red hazard, either give a miss, and lay your own 
ball in an advantageous part of the baulk ; or endeavour to 
make a baulk by striking both balls into it; or to bring the 
red ball within the striking line, and leave your own at the 
top of the table ; or to part the balls as directed in Obs. 2. 
The choice of one or other of these, will depend upon the 
position you occupy on the table. 

606 



INSTRUCTIONS. 65 

18. Always mark well the position of the balls before you 
strike, and consider the course which the ball you are striking 
will take after the completion of the stroke, and so regulato 
the strength, as to bring the latter either near a pocket, or in 
a favourable position for a canon. No circumstance connected 
with the game is so essential to success, as a judicious antici- 
pation of the position the balls will assume after contact, and 
the probable consequences of every stroke. 

19. Be cautious how you play for a red hazard in any 
pocket to which your adversary may happen to be near, and 
always use strength enough to bring the ball away if you fail 
to pocket it, otherwise he will obtain an almost certain hazard. 

20. Never suffer the red ball to remain near a pocket, unless 
you have a dead winning hazard upon your adversary's ball ; 
and if you are off the table in consequence of having been 
pocketed, and the red ball is situated near one of the baulk 
pockets, play at the red hazard bricole, notwithstanding you 
may have a tolerable losing hazard upon the white. 

21. In playing white winning hazards, use a gentle strength, 
in order to leave the white ball near to the cushion, if you do 
not pocket it. In playing red winning hazards, use a strength 
sufficient to bring the red ball away from the pocket. 

It may here be observed, as a general rule, that a thorough 
knowledge of strength is far more advantageous in billiard 
playing than the most dexterous hazard striking. 

Section III. — Select Examples in the Winnnig and Losing 
Carambole Game. 

Having laid down the orders to be observed in the game, 
and the rules and cautions necessary to be attended to by the 
player, we shall, in the next place, present to the reader a 
collection of practical diagrams, representing various posi- 
tions which the balls are liable to assume ; and under each, 
point out the most judicious mode of play : in doing which, 
it will be expedient, in the first place, to notice those cases 
which are either of most frequent occurrence, or for other 
reasons more particularly require the attention of the learner, 
and afterwards to speak of those which are more rare, or re- 
quire a greater degree of skill and judgment on the part of 
the player. 

607 



66 



BILLIARDS. 



EXPLANATION OF THE FIGURES. 



In the following Diagrams, the Figures equally denote the order 0/ Ihi 
Cases, as well as the striker's ball, unless where the contrary is stated. 



Fig. 41. 



Fig. 42. 





Fig. 41. Case 1. 

A full ball winning hazard upon b, 
in the pocket e. 

A full ball winning hazard upon c, 
in the pocket d. 

Pocket the adversary's ball and 
make a baulk. 

a Fig. 41. Case 2. 

A full ball winning hazard upon b, 
in the pocket d. 

A losing hazard upon c, in the 
pocket e, by playing a i ball upon 
its left side. 

Whether c be the adversary's or 
the red ball, make the losing hazard 
with sufficient strength to bring the 
ball to the middle of the table. 

60S 



N. B. In the first of these cases it 
will be seen, that both balls are 
within the striking line; in the se- 
cond, that one of them is above 
it. These arc circumstances which 
should always be attentively marked 
by the striker, as also, in the latter 
case, whether the ball which is be- 
low the line be the adversary's or 
the red ball, and if it present a win- 
ning or a losing hazard. Whenever 
one of the balls is above the line, 
and the other which is below it, 
affords a losing hazard, by making 
which, the striker will be enabled to 
bring the other above also, it is in- 
variable good play to sacrifice the 
baulk to the object of obtaining the 
advantageous hazards described in 



Examples. 



<rt 



Cases 1 & 2 of Fig. 33, and 5 & 6 of 
Fig. 34. 

But if the ball within the line af- 
fords but an unfavourable losing 
hazard, or a winning one only, the 
prudent play is to pocket the adver- 
sary's ball and make a baulk; in 
doing which the striker should be 
cautious to play either a high or a 
low stroke, according to the place 
which the ball in the baulk happens 
to occupy, in order that his own may 
obtain such a position as will enable 
him either to play gently on the red 
ball, or reflect it from the cushion 
favourably for his succeeding stroke, 
in the event of his adversary's miss- 
ing bricole. 

Fig. 41. Case 3. 

A full ball winning hazard upon b, 
in the pocket a. 

A full ball winning hazard upon c, 
in the pocket b. 

Make the red hazard by a low 
stroke. 

N. B. This forms the reverse of 
Case 1.— It may be regarded as a 
general rule, subject, however, to 
exceptions, which will be pointed 
out hereafter, that at the bottom of 
the table, when each ball presents an 
equally good winning hazard, you 
ought to choose the white, and un- 
der similar circumstances at the top 
of the table, you ought to choose the 
red ball. In the latter case, after 
having holed the white ball, tho 
striker would have only one ball to 
play at, and moreover would be in 
danger of leaving his game open, by 
affording to his adversary the advan 
tage of the striking ring ; whereas, 
by pocketing the red ball, he will 
obtain two succeeding hazards, or a 
canon, upon its being replaced on 
the contiguous spot. 

Fig. 41. Case 4. 

A losing hazard upon b, in the 
pocket f, by playing a } ball upon 
its right side. 



A losing hazard upon c in the 
pocket f, and a winning hazard in 
the pocket e, by playing a i ball 
smart upon its left side. 

A canon by playing a I ball upon 
the right side of b. 

Make the losing hazard upon b, 
with a strength just sufficient to 
bring it out a short distance from 
the cushion ; and afterwards, cither 
make the losing hazard upon c, or 
the winning hazard and canon, as 
the ball b may happen to be situated 
more or less favourably. 

N. B. In the preceding case, if the 
striker were to play for the losing 
hazard upon c, and should even have 
the address to make the winning haz- 
ard in d, by the same stroke, he 
would, in the first place, gain less 
points than by adopting the mode 
above recommended, and in the end 
would leave nothing, at least no fa- 
vourable hazard or canon, for his 
next stroke. — " In choosing one of 
two modes of play, provided each are 
equally safe, the striker should inva- 
riably prefer that which it likely to 
produce the most subsequent advan 
tages." 

Fig. 41. Case 5. 
Striker's Ball of the Table. 

A full ball, winning hazard upon 
b, in the pocket g, by playing from 
the point d. of the striking ring. 

A canon by placing a i ball upon 
its right side from e. 

Make the canon very gently, so 
as to ensure a hazard in the top 
pocket. 

In this case, by making the win 
ning hazard upon the adversary's 
ball, the striker, in all probability, 
would be able to gain only two 
points, and might, more particularly 
if his adversary be a tolerable player, 
lose many subsequently : for the red 
ball at c, being situated unfavour- 
ably, if he fail to score upon it, he 
will be in danger of leaving a hazard: 



609 



08 



BILLARDS. 



if he bring it into ihe baulk by play- ' is probable, at his succeeding stroke, 
ing a low stroke full, and leave his | will either drop the latter into the 
own ball near the cushion in the corner pocket, or lay it to a disad- 
place it o^cup : ed, his adversary, it vantage under the cushion. 



Fig. 42. 



Fig. 42. Case 1. 



A I ball losing hazard upon b, in 
lie pocket e. 

A i ball losing hazard upon c in 
the pocket d. 

A canon by playing a £ ball either 
upon the left side of b, or upon the 
right side of c. 

Play for the canon upon the ad- 
versary's ball with gentle strength, 
in order to earn' it near to the pocket, 
that yon may make a baulk at your 
next stroke. 

Fig. 42. Case 2. 

A losing hazard upon b, in the 
pocket g, by playing a t ball upon 
its right side. 

A winning hazard upon b, in the 
pocket g, by playing a \ ball upon 
its left side. 

A losing hazard upon c, in the 
pocket e, by playing a y ball upon 
its right side. 

A winning hazard upon c, in the 
pocket e, by playing a £ ball upon 
its left side. 

Make the losing hazard upon c, 
in the pocket e, with a strength that 
will bring it towards the opposite 
middle hole. 



Fig. 42. Case 3. 
A losing hazard upon b, in the • 



pocket k, by playing a 4. ball upon 
its right side. 

A winning hazard upon b, in the 
pocket k r and a canon by playing a 
half ball smart upon its left side. 

Whether b be the red or the ad- 
versary's ball, play for the losing 
hazard ; and regulate the strength 
of your stroke in such a way as to 
bring it favourably for a canon after 
wards. 

Fig. 42. Case 4. 

A full ball winning hazard upon 
b, in the pocket g. 

A losing hazard upon c, in the 
pocket i. by playing a half ball upon 
its left side. 

If c be the adversary's ball, make 
the winning hazard upon b, by a 
low stroke, that your own ball may 
lay dead, so as to enable you after- 
wards to make the losing hazard or 
the canon. 

If c be the red ball, make the 
losing hazard in the pocket 1, smart 
enough to bring the ball below the 
middle of the table. 

N. B. The four preceding case* 
are similar to each other, and a little 
consideration must render obvious 
the motive for the particular mode 
of play recommended under each- 



610 



EXAMPLES. 



69 



Fig. 48. 



Fig. 44. 





Fig. 43. Case 1. 

A losing hazard upon b, in the 
pocket d, by playing a I ball upon 
its left side. 

A losing hazard upon c, in the 
pocket h, by playing a i ball upon 
its left side. 

Make the hazard upon c, which- 
ever ball it mny be, with a degree of 
strength that will leave it below the 
middle of the table. 



Fig. 43. Case 2. 

A losing hazard upon b, in the 
pocket d, and a winning hazard in 
the pocket i, by playing a I ball 
smart upon its right side. 

A winning hazard upon b, in the 
pocket d, and a losing hazard in the 
pocket g, by playing a i ball smart 
upon its left side. 

A full ball winning hazard npon c, 
in tne pocket h. 



If c be the red ball, play for the 
winning hazard upon b, in the pocket 
d, with just sufficient strength to 
carry the bull the requisite distance 
and that will enable you to make a 
good baulk if vou succeed in holing 
it. 

If c he the adversary's ball, play 
for the losing hazard in the pocket 
g, and the winning hazard in the 
pocket d, with considerable strength, 
in order to bring the balls away from 
the pockets if neither of them hap 
pen to be holed. 

Fig. 43. Case 3 

A losing hazard upon c, in the 
pocket h, by playing a I ball upon 
its left side.' 

A canon by playing a i ball smart 
upon the left side of b. 

Fig. 43. Case 4. 
A loeing hazard upon b, in the 

611 



70 



BILLIARDfe. 



f>ocket f, by playing a i ball upon its 
eft side. 

A winning hazard upon b, in the 
pocket f, and a canon by playing a £ 
ball smart upon its right side. 

Play a smart stroke for the canon, 
nnd the winning hazard in f. If b 
be the adversary's ball, and you hole 
it, make a baulk. 

N. B. In all of the foregoing cases 
it will be seen that a particular mode 
of play, although the most easy and 
obvious, is proscribed, as by adopt- 



ing it the striker must almost un 
avoidably leave to his adversary ths 
baulk. The only exception to this 
restriction, is where the striker only 
wants the number of points which the 
hczard affords to make up hi* game. 
Nothing is of more importance in 
the game of billiards than to be able 
to foresee the course wbich the balls 
will take after their contact. The 
cases here represented will serve to 
suggest to the learner various others 
of a similar nature. 



Fig. 44. 



Fig. 44. Case 1. 



A full ball winning hazard upon b, 
in the pocket f. 

A losing hazard upon b, in the 
pocket c, by playing a f ball smart 
upon its left side. 

A full ball winning hazard upon c, 
in the pocket g. 

If c be the red ball, make the win- 
ning hazard upon the adversary's 
ball b, to obtain the baulk. 

If c be the adversary's ball, make 
the losing hazard upon the red ball b. 

Fig. 44. Case 2. 

A full ball winning hazard upon b, 
in the pocket d. 
A losing hazard upon b, in the 



pocket e, by playing 
its left side. 



a i ball upon 



A full ball winning hazard upon c, 
in the pocket k. 

Make the losing hazard upon b 
with moderate strength. 

N. B. The positions of the balls 

612 



represented in these two figures, are 
nearly alike, but in one the losing 
hazard occurs at the upper end of the 
table, in the other at the lower end 
in consequence of which the former 
requires a mode of play precisely the 
reverse of the latter. 

Fig. 44. Case 3. 

A full ball winning hazard upon b, 
in the pocket k. 

A full ball winning hazard upon c, 
in the pocket d. 

A canon by playing a £ ball upon 
the right side of b. 

Supposing b the adversary's ball, 
play for the winning hazard and the 
baulk. 

If c be the adversary's ball, and 
you are ahead in the game, carry the 
ball c gently to the pocket d. 

If c be the adversary's ball, and 
your game is backward or if neither 
party have yet scored many points 
play for the canon. 



EXAMPLES. 



71 



Fig. 46. 



Fig. 44. 




V__7^ 




Fig. 46. Case 1. 

A canon by playing a J ball upon 
the right side of the ball b. 

A full ball winning hazard upon c, 
in the pocket d. 

A i ball losing hazard upon c, in 
the pocket e. 

If c be the adversary's ball, play 
for the winning hazard softly. 

If c be the red ball, play for the 
losing hazard strong. 

Fig. 45. Case 2. 

A canon by playing either a } ball 
•mart, or a i ball with moderate 
strength upon the left side of b. 

A losing hazard upon c, in the 
pocket e, and a winning hazard in the 
pocket d, by playing a J ball smart 
upon its right side. 

A winning hazard upon c, in the 

!)Ocket e, by playing a | ball upon its 
eft side. 
A losing hazard upon e, in the 



f\Z^ 



Ts 







pocket d, by playing a f ball upon 
its left side. 

A winning hazard upon b, in the 
pocket e, by playing a i ball upon 
its right side. 

If c be the red ball, play for the 
losing hazard in the pocket d, strong 
enough to bring the ball out of the 
baulk. 

If c be the white ball, make the 
losing hazard in the pocket e, just 
strong enough to lay the ball c over 
the pocket d, without pocketing it, 
and by your next stroke make a los- 
ing hazard, and bring the ball down 
for a succeeding canon. 



Fig. 45. Case 3. 

A canon by playing a £ ball unon 
the left side of b. 

A losing hazard upon b, in the 
pocket k, by playing a i ball upo» 
its left side. 

A losing hazard upon c, in ens 



53 



613 



BILLIARDS. 



pocket g, by playing a ± ball smart 
upon its left side. 

Play for the canon upon b, with 
gentle strength. 

N- B. The above examples are in- 
troduced for the sake of warning the 
young player against a source of 
danger which he ought to beware of 
in attempting to canon or hazard 
(unless by a bricole or doublet 
stroke) wlen the ball to be first 
struck happens to be near to a cush- 
ion. In these cases the design of 
the striker is most frequently (and in 
the present instances would be un- 
avoidably) frustrated by a ki>s ; the 
one ball returning after reflexion 
so as to intercept the course of the 
other, as will be seen by consider- 
ing the figure. This the striker 
should always anticipate and guard 



against by an appropriate mode of 
play. 

With regard to the last described 
case, it may not be amiss to observe, 
that when a ball is thus close under 
a cushion, and forms with the pocket 
and the striker's ball nearly right an- 
gles, as a, c, k, that the losing hazard 
may often be made without difficulty 
through the intervention of a kiss 
by playing a f stroke gently upor 
the side of the ball opposed to the 
pocket. When the ball is not quite 
close, the hazard is made with more 
difficulty. It may be useful, per 
haps, to know this, but it is a mode 
of play which ought seldom, perhaps 
never, to be practised in a regular 
game, notwithstanding the adversa 
ry's ball may happen to be near to a 
cushion. 



Fig. 46. 



Fig. 46. Case 1. 
Striker's Ball off the Table. 

A losing hazard upon d, in the 
pocket k, by playing a £ ball upon 
its right side from the point b. 

A losing hazard upon d, in the 
pocket f, by playing a £ ball upon its 
left side from the point c. 

A winning hazard upon d, in either 
top pocket, and a canon by playing 
a I ball upon either side, from the 
point a. 

If d be the adversary's ball, play 
for the losing hazard. 

If d be the red ball, play for the 
winning hazard and the canon. 

Fig. 46. Case 2. 

A losing hazard upon b, in the 
pocket f, by playing a J ball upon its 
right side. 

A winning hazard upon b, in the 
pocket c, by playing a J ball upon 
its right side. 



A winning hazard upon b, in tht 
pocket f, by playing a i ball upon its 
left side. 

A full ball winning hazard upon c, 
in the pocket d. 

A losing hazard upon c, in the 
pocket e, by playing a £ ball smart 
upon its left side. 

Supposing b the adversary's ball, 
play for the winning hazard in the 
pocket f, just strong enough to carry 
your own ball to about e. 

If c be the adversary's ball, play 
either for the losing hazard upon b, 
in the pocket f, with considerable 
strength, or for the winning hazard 
in the pocket d, gently. If you make 
it, bring the red ball "into the baulk, 
as in Case 5, Fig. 54. 

N. B. In the case of b being the 
adversary's ball, the striker must at 
once perceive the intention of play- 
ing for the winning hazard in the 
pocket f, rather than for the losing 
hazard in the same pocket, or the 
winning hazard in the pocket c. 
An accidental failure in attempting 



614 



EXAMPLES. 



73 



these last must inevitably leave the 
game open to the adversary, by giv- 
ing him the red hazard 

Fig. 48. Case 3. 

A canon. 

A losing hazard upon c, in the 
pocket d, by playing a \ ball upon 
its right side. 

Make the losing hazard strong 
enough to carry the ball c to the 
pocket f, and b to the pocket e. 

Fig. 47.* 




Canons. 
Fig. 47. Case 1. 



N. B. In cases of this kind where 
the two object balls touch each other, 
and are near to a cushion, little ad- 
vantage is usually derived from ca- 
noning. It is a mistaken opinion 
with young players, that they ought 
to canon in every case in which they 
can do 60 without difficulty. Thus, 
in Case 4, the striker will get most 
points from making the wining haz 
ard upon c, in the pocket g, by play 
ing very softly on the right side »- 
the ball b. 

Fig. 48. 




A canon by playing either upon 
the point e of the cushion g, h, or a I in the pocket h. 



Canons. 

\ ball smart upon the left 6ide of the 
ball b. 

A full ball winning hazard upon c, 



* In this and the two following figures are represented various cases of 
canons, which particularly require the attention of the young player. The 
making of canons with address entirely depends upon an intimate know- 
ledge of the angles of the table, and of the degrees of strength necessary 
to give the balls the requisite velocity, in order to obtain the ultimate de- 
sired advantage of the stroke ; for in every case of canon, the judicioui 
*Mker will have it in his power to create a favourable hazard. 

615 



74 



BILLIARDS. 



If c be the adversary's ball, play 
for the canon bricole. 

If c be the red ball, play either 
for the canon upon b, or for the 
winning hazard with considerable 
strength. 

In either case of playing for the 
canon, employ a degree of strength 
that will obviate the danger of leav- 
ing your own ball near a pocket if 
you fail, and at the same time will 
afford you a subsequent hazard or 
canon if you succeed. 

N. B. This masked situation of the 
balls usually proves perplexing to 
those whom practice has not yet ren- 
dered expert. It is also frequently a 
dangerous one, as in the present in- 
stance, if the upper of the two balls 
be the white ; in this case a miss 
would be inevitably followed by a 
loss, greater or less, proportioned to 
the skill of the adversary. 

It is expedient, therefore, in such 
cases of playing bricole, to mark 
well the precise part of the cushion 
to be struck with the ball. Use will 
make this familiar to the eye, but 
the novice will do well to examine 
accurately the relative positions of 
the three balls before he strikes, and 
to hold in mind the axiom that — the 
angle of reflexion equals the angle 
of incidence. Thus, were he to 
strike the cushion at d instead of e, 
his ball would be reflected to g, 
above the ball b ; if at f, it would be 
reverberated to h, in a line with the 
upper part of the ball c ; but in either 
case it will be seen, that each return- 
ing line is equal, or answers to, the 
striking one. It is always easy, 



therefore, to measure the angle with 
the eye or with the cue. 

Fig. 47. Case 2. 

A canon either by striking the 
cushion at e, or by playing a i ball 
upon the right side of b. 

A full ball winning hazard upon c, 
in the pocket h. 

A losing hazard upon b, in the 
pocket f, by playing a £ ball smart 
upon its right side. 

A losing hazard upon b, in the 
pocket e, by playing a £ ball upon 
its left side. 

Canon bricole smart enough to 
bring the balls away from the cush 
ion, and leave hazards in the bottom 
and middle pockets. 

N. B. It may not be improper to 
observe, that whenever the balls are 
thus close to each other, and in a 
direct line with a pocket, the win- 
ning hazard may always be made 
with the greatest ease. To do so, 
however, in the case here represent- 
ed, would be injudicious, unless the 
striker could make his game by the 
stroke, as the canon is equally easy, 
and affords the greater number of 
chances. 

Fig. 47. Case 3. 

A bricole canon by playing at the 
cushion at d. 

A losing hazard upon b, in the 
pocket f, by playing a i ball upon its 
right side. 

Play for the canon with a strength 
that will just carry the balls to the 
middle pocket. 



Fig. 48. 



Fig. 48. Case 1. 



A canon by playing a i ball hard 
apon the right side or the ball b. 

A full ball winning hazard upon b, 
in the pocket e. 

A losing hazard upon b, in the 



pocket i, by playing a t ball smart 
upon its right side. 

A winning hazard upon b, in the 
pocket d, by playing a i ball upon its 
right side. 

If c be the adversary's ball, make 
the winning hazard upon b, in the 



616 



EXAMPLE. 



75 



If c be the adversary's ball, make 
the winning hazard upon b, in the 
pocket e, by a high stroke, that your 
ball may assume" a position that will 
enable you to make the canon to 
advantage, upon the red ball being 
replaced upon its spot. 

If c be the red ball, play for the 
canon. 

Fig. 48. Case 2. 

A canon by playing a £ ball either 
upon the right side of the ball b, or 
upon the left side of the ball c. 

Canon off the red ball strong 
enough to carry it towards the 
pocket e, for a subsequent hazard. 

Fig. 48. Case 3. 

A winning hazard in the pocket i, 
and a canon by playing a high stroke 
full and strong upon b. 

The winning and losing hazards 
represented in Case e, f, Fig. 38. 

Canon with just enough strength 
to carry the ball to the pocket. 

Fig. 48. Case 4. 
Striker's Ball off the Table. 
A winning hiursurd in the pocket 



>laying a high 
rom the point 



g, and a cannon by 
stroke full upon b, 
a. 

A losing hazard upon b, in the 
pocket e, by playing a £ ball upox 
its left side, from the point e. 

A losing hazard upon b, in the 
pocket i, by playing a $ ball upon 
its left side from the point e. 

If c be the adversary's ball, play 
for the losing hazard in the pocket 
e. 

If b be the adversary's ball, play 
for the canon, and the winning hazard 
strong enough to bring the red ball 
away from the cushion. If you suc- 
ceed in holing the adversary's ball, 
make a baulk. 

N. B. Whenever the balls deviate 
at all from the parallel, this mode of 
making canons becomes easy, and 
may be practised, although they hap- 
pen to be at a considerable distance 
from each other. In this case, how- 
ever, it is bad play to attempt it, 
unless the adversary is close to the 
cushion, as in such positions the 
striker may always adopt a mode of 
play not only more safe, but by 
which he may dispose the balls to a 
greater advantage. 



617 



76 



BILLIARDS 




Fig. 60. 




Canom. 



Winning and Losing Hazards. 



Fig. 49. Case 1. 
Striker's Ball off the Table. 

A losing hazard upon b, in the 
pocket d, by playing a i ball hard 
upon its right side from the point f. 

A canon and a winning hazard 
upon b, in the pocket d, by playing 
a ; ball smart upon its left side, from 
the point b. 

If c be the adversary's ball, canon 
with very gentle strength, so as just 
to carry the ball b to the pocket d. 

If c be the red ball, either canon 
smart enough to bring it away from 
the pocket, in the event of its not 
being pocketed, or play for the losing 
hazard in the pocket d. 

N. B. Canons of this kind are by 
no means, generally speaking, so easy 
to be made, as they appear; for, as in 
Case, 1, Fig. 47, a considerable de 



gree of delicacy is required, more 
especially where the balls are widely 
separated from each other, in ordei 
to strike the cushion at the necessary 
point. The worst consequences also 
are often to be apprehended from a 
failure, as in the case here repre 
sented, provided c be the adversary's 
ball. It will therefore be better, un 
der such circumstances, if the striker 
is doubtful of being able to make the 
canon, either to lay the balls safe, or 
to choose the hazard, if any tolerable 
one present itself at the same time, 
as is usually the case. 

Fig. 49. Case 2. 

A canon by playing a | ball 
smart upon tie left side of the 
ball b. 

A full ball winning hazard upou o 
in the pocket k. 



618 



EXAMPLES. 



77 



If o be the red ball, play for the 
canon- 

if c be the adversary's ball, play 
for the winning hazard in the pocket 

and the baulk. 

Fig. 49. Case 3. 

A bricole canon by playing upon 
the cushion at e. 

A losing hazard upon b, in the 
pocket e, by playing a I ball smart 
upon its right side. 

Make the canon strong enough to 
carry the balls for hazards in the 
middle pockets. 

N. B. In playing for the hazard, 
the striker would, in all probability, 
lose the baulk by a kiss. With re- 
gard to bricole canons, it should be a 
rule never to play for them, unless, 
jirst, the balls being near to each 
other, the striker can ensure suc- 
cess ; or, secondly, the adversary 
happen to have no hazard upon the 
red ball, so that a miss would most 
likely be followed by the loss of one 
point only. 

Fig. 49. Case 4. 

A canon by playing a three-quar- 
ter ball upon the left side of the 
ball b. 

A losing hazard upon b, in the 
pocket g, by playing a \ ball smart 
upon its right side. 

Whether c be the adversary's or 
the red ball, canon, and dispose b 
for a hazard in the pocket g: if it be 
the adversary's ball, endeavour to 
leave a winning hazard ; if the red 
ball, a losing one. 



Fig. 49. Case 6. 

A bricole canon by playing apoc 
the cushion at d. 

The hazards represented by Case 
e, f, Fig. 39. 

A | ball winning hazard upon b, in 
either of the lower corner pockets. 

If b be the adversary's ball, play 
for the winning hazard either in the 
pocket f or k, with just sufficient 
strength to carry it to the bottom of 
the table, whereby you will lay 
your own ball safe near to the side 
cushion. 

If c be the adversary's ball, either 
part the balls by playing a i ball 
gently upon b, or give a point and 
lay your ball below the middle of 
the table- 

The same rules will hold good with 
regard to a similar position of the 
balls at the lower end of the table. 

Fig. 49. Case 6. 

A canon by playing a high stroke 
full upon b. 

N. B. This is a case of by no 
means unfrequent occurrence, but it 
is one which requires a great degree 
of nicety in managing properly. In 
the hands of an expert player, the 
canon would be certain, but by an 
indifferent one, the attempt would 
perhaps often be dangerous. If the 
upper of the two balls, however, be 
the adversary's, the canon may al- 
ways be played for with safety,* but 
on the contrary, it will be advisable 
to separate the balls by playing 
an } ball smart upon the right "side 
ofb. 



Fig. 50.* 



• In the game of Billiards as much judgment is required in defence as 
skill in execution. No stroke whatever, even though success appear cer- 
tain, should be made, without maturely considering the probable conse- 
quences of a failure. It joften happens "that a player, much inferior to his 
adversary in point of execution, will get the best of a match or game merelv 
oy the policy of his strokes. This is a circumstance often taken advantage 
of by those who are much in the habit of betting, and who almost uniformly 

619 



78 



BILLIARDS. 



Fig. 60. Case 1. 
Adversary's Ball off the Table. 

A full ball winning hazard upon b, 
in the pocket d. 

A i ball winning hazard upon b, 
in the pocket d. 

Play for the winning hazard in d, 
with gentle strength, so as to leave it 
within the baulk if you do not hole 
it, and dispose your own ball near to 
the side cushion at c. 

Fig. 50. Case 2. 

Both striker's and Adversary's Ball 
off the Table. 

A full ball doublet winning hazard 
upon b, in the pocket e, by playing 
from the point f. 

A £ ball losing hazard upon b, in 
the pocket o, by playing from the 
point k. 

Either play for the losing hazard 
in the pocket o smart, or for the 
doublet winning hazard in the pocket 
e, by a low stroke. If you fail to 
make the hazard in the first case, 
you will part the balls by laying 
one near to each side cushion ; in 
the second, you will bring the red 
ball into the baulk, and leave your 
own ball nearly in the place it occu- 
pied. 

Fig. 50. Case 3. 

Adversary's Ball off the Table. 

Make a baulk by playing a i ball 
upor. b, with moderate strength, to 
bring the balls after reflection to m 
and n. « 



Fig. 60. Case 4. 
Adversary's Ball off die Table. 

A $ ball winning hazard upon b, 
in the pocket c. 

An j ball losing hazard upon b, in 
the pocket c. 

Play a low stroke full upon b, in 
order "to bring it into the baulk, aud 
leave your own ball in its place. 

N. B. It would be very possible 
in this case to make a baulk, by 
playing fine and strong upon the 
left side of the ball b; but this is 
not to be ensured, and consequently 
ought not to be attempted, as the 
striker has it always in his power 
to lay the balls safe, as here pre 
scribed. 

Fig. 50. Case 6. 

Adversary's Ball off the Table. 

A i ball winning hazard upon b, 
in the pocket e. 

Make a baulk by playing upon b 
bricole. 

N. B. In this and every case of 
making a baulk, the striker should, 
in the Jirst place, be careful to regu 
late his strength in such a way as 
to leave the red ball the lowest of 
the two; and, secondly, never carry 
either of the balls so near a pocket, 
as to afford an easy bricole hazard 
to his adversary. 

Fig. 50. Case 6. 

Adversary's Ball off the Table. 

A three-quarter ball winning haz- 
ard upon b, in the pocket e. 



gain, by making their bets in favour of the side which, to those not so well 
acquainted with the game, appears the weakest. A bold and inexperienced 
player will play at every ball that offers to him a probability of scoring; on 
the contrary, a judicious player will never attempt any point, unless, on 
the one hand, he is pretty certain of making it, or, on the other, is con 
»cious the balls will be left tafe in event of his not succeeding. 

620 



EXAMPLES. 



70 



Make a baulk, by playing for the 
winning hazard: and nse a strength 
that will bring your own ball suffi- 
ciently away from the cushion to 
allow of your making the hazard 
subsequently, if you fail in the first 
attempt- 



Fig. 50. Case 7. 
Adversary' s Ball off the Table. 
A £ ball losing hazard upon b, in 
the pocket p. 

A i ball losing hazard upon b, ir 
the pocket e. 

Make a baulk by playing a thre< 
quarter ball upon its right side. 



Fig. 51. 



Fig. 5i 





Fig. 51. Case 1. 

Both adversary's and striker's Balls 
off the Table. 

A i ball losing hazard upon b, in 
each middle pocket. 

A full ball winning hazard upon b, 
in each middle pocket 

A full ball doublet winning haz- 
ard upon b, in either of the lower 
pockets. 

Play for the doublet winning haz- 
ard, and strike beneath the centre of 
ycur ball, that it may recoil and 
make a baulk. 



Fig. 51. Case 2. 

Both striker's nna adversary 1 * Balls 
off d,e Table. 

Make a baulk by playing an \ 
ball-strong upon its ieftside from the 
point k. 

Fig. 61. Case 8. 

Adversary's Ball off the Table. 

A J ball losing doublet hazard 
upon b, in the pocket f. 

Make a baulk by playing a } ball 
strong upon its right side. 

221 



80 



BILLIARDS. 



Fig. 51. Case 4. 
Adversary's Ball off the Table. 

A i ball doublet winning hazard 
upon b, in the pocket a. 

An i ball losing doublet hazard 
upon b, in the pocket a. 

The same in the pocket f. 

A | ball losing doublet hazard 
upon b, in the pocket c. 

Play a i ball upon its right side 
with a strength that will carry it be- 
low the line, and bring your own 
ball to about g. 

Fig. 51. Case 6. 

Adversary's Ball off the Table. 

A full ball winning hazard upon b, 
In the pocket c. 



A three-quarter ball winning doub- 
let hazard upon b, in the pocket d. 

Play for the doublet hazard in the 
pocket d, with a strength that will 
leave b within the baulk, and carry 
your own ball to about f. 

N. B. In all of the foregoing cases, 
it will be observed, that the hazard 
is declined for the purpose either of 
making a baulk, or of laying the 
balls safe; and it should be a rule 
with the striker to do 60 in every in- 
stance where the adversary's ball is 
in hand, unless in the Jirst place, he 
anticipates more important advan 
tages from the hazard, and is able to 
make it with facility; or, secondly, 
when a certain number of points 
only, which the hazard would give 
him, are necessary for the comple- 
tion of his game. 



Fig. 52. 



Fig. 52. Case L 

Striker's Ball off the Table. — Adver- 
sary has the baulk. 

If b (in the baulk) be the adver- 
sary's ball, play from d, upon the 
point e of the cushion off b and c for 
a canon. 

If c be the adversary's ball, give 
a miss (if your game will admit of 
it,) and lay your hall at a, in a line 
with the other balls and with the 
pocket f. 

N. B. This is a very common case ; 
the adversary has the baulk, and a 
dead hazard in the middle pocket, 
(supposing c to be his ball,) if the 
striker miss in playing bricole. It 
will he prudent, therefore, to give 
him a point, by disposing the balls 
as above recommended, so as to in- 
tercept his hazard, and obtain the 
chances of the table ; there only re- 
maining the choice of a canon from 
the cushion i, or by playing the high 
oblique stroke described, Chap. 2, 

622 



Sect. 1, p. 527, and a losing hazard 
in the pocket k. In doing this, how- 
ever, the striker should be extremely 
cautious to dispose the balls pre- 
cisely in a line with each other, oth- 
erwise he will give his adversary an 
easy canon. 

Fig. 52. Case 2. 

Both striker's and adversary's Balls 
off the Table; b red bull. 

The hazards represented by Case 
e, f, Fig 39. 

A full ball doublet winning hazard 
in either of the lower pockets. 

Either part the halls by playing a 
£ ball gently upon either side of b, 
or play for the doublet winning haz- 
ard, by striking either a low stroke, 
in order that your ball may remain 
at the top of the table, or a high 
stroke, that it may be reflected near 
to the side cushion. 

N. B. The case here described 
must occur more or less frequently 



EXAMPLES. 



81 



in every game: both of the white 
balls have been pocketed, and the 
red remain upon the spot. Under 
suoh circumstances the striker has 
the choice of three modes, by which 
he may lay the balls safe; either, 
first, to bring the red ball into the 
Daulk, and leave his own ball at the 
top of the table by a full stroke, as 
above mentioned ; or, secondly, to 
bring both his own and the red ball 
into the baulk, by playing a £ ball 
hard upon the latter; or, thirdly, to 
part the balls, or lay each near a side 
cushion, by playing a £ ball with 
gentle strength upon the red. Of 
these, the last is attended with least 
risk: in bringing the red ball intc the 
baulK, it often happens that you 
leave a hazard upon your own; and 
the consequence oP a failure in an 
attempt to bring both balls into the 
baulk, would be too destructive to 
admit of it being made, where the 
game is pending on the event of a 
stroke. 

In disposing the balls as above 
directed, the striker should observe 
two cautions, first, never to use 
strength enough to produce the case 
b, c, Fig. 54 ; secondly, to avoid 
laying the balls quite close to the 
cushion. 

Fig. 52. Case 3. 

k, Striker's Ball; h, red Ball; g, 
adversary's Ball close under the 
cushion. 

Give a point and lay your ball 
at i. 

N. B. The intention of disposing 
the balls as recommended in this 
case, is too obvious to be insisted 
upon; the adversary is close under 
the cushion, the striker himself in a 
situation that renders him incapable 
of easily scoring upon either ball: 
by placing his own ball, therefore, 
thus advantageously, if the adver 



sary should either miss or make an 
imperfect stroke, a certain hazard 
must be the consequence; When 
ever, from an unfavourable position, 
you are incapable of scoring, and 
your adversary happen to have no 
hazard upon the red ball, it should 
be an invariable rule rather to give a 
point, than to run the hazard of 
missing unintentionally, and thereby 
leaving the balls to a disadvantage. 

Fig. 52. Case 4. 

Striker's Ball off the Table ; adver- 
sary's Ball in any part of the Table 
in which it does not present a 
dead hazard; red Ball before the 
pocket q. 

Play for the red hazard bricole, 
by striking with a due degree of 
strength upon the top cushion at c, 
from the point e. 

N. B. In cases of this kind it is 
always better to play bricole by one 
reflexion than by two. The inevita- 
ble consequence of leaving the red 
ball over a pocket, unless you have 
a sure hazard upon your adversary's 
ball, must be at least a loss of three, 
perhaps of six points; but whenever 
you have at the same time a favour- 
able winning hazard npon your ad- 
versary's ball, it is in every such 
case good play to prefer the latter, 
in order to gain the red hazard sub- 
sequently. 

Fig. 52. Case 5. 

wi, Striker'9 Ball ; I, adversary's Ball; 
«, red Ball. 

Push your ball gently round to tht 
lower side of 1. 

N. B. In doing this, the striker 
must be cautious to make the balls 
touch each other, and to leave them 
close to each other, otherwise his de- 
sign will be in a great measure frus- 
trated: 



623 



82 



BILLIAED3. 



Fig. 53. 



Fig. 54. 




Fig. 53. Case 1. 
Striker's Ball off the Table. 

A full ball doublet winning hazard 
upon b, in the pocket i. 

A canon by playing a one-third 
ball upon the left side of b. 

A losing hazard upon b, in the 
pocket g, by playing a i ball upon 
its right side. 

A losing hazard upon b, in the 
pocket h, by playing a three-quarter 
ba'.l hard upon its ri<rht side. 

Whether b be the adversary's or 
the red ball, canon with a strength 
that will leave b bolnw the middle 
of the table, and create a hazard 
upon c f in the pocket k. 

Fig. 63. Caee 6. 

Striker's Ball of the Table;— one of 
the Balls at b, as before, the other 
at d. 

If b be th« adversary's ball, play 
624 







for the winning hazard to make a 
baulk. 

If b be the red ball, play for the 
canon strong enough to bring your 
own ball away from the pocket k, 
and the red ball from 1, in case you 
do not succeed in making it. 

Fig. 53. Case 3. 

Striker's Ball off the Table ; — one of 
the Balls at 6, as in the first and 
second cases, Vie other Ball at e. 

The hazards as before. 

A canon and a winning doublet 
hazard upon b, in the pocket i, by 
playing a three-quarter ball upon its 
left side, from the furthest part of 
the striking ring. 

If b be the red ball, and the adver 
sary's ball is close under the cushion 
at e, play for the winning hazard and 
canon. 



EXAMPLES. 



83 



If b be the adversary's ball, play 
for the losing hazard in the pocket 
g, and bring the ball out for a sub- 
sequent winning hazard in the same 
pocket : if you succeed, make a 
Baulk. 

N. B. The cases here described 
are particularly interesting to the 
young player, from the frequency of 
their occurrence : the striker's ball 
being off the table, with one of the 
balls in the baulk, and the other at a 
short distance from the side cushion, 
and near to the striking line ; the 
striker should be influenced in the 
mode of play he adopts by two cir- 
cumstances, namely, by the position 
of the ball within the baulk, and 
whether it be the white or red ball. 
Thus, in Case 1, the ball c is so near 
as to render the canon certain, in 
consequence of which it should in 
all cases be played for, as being most 
profitable. Case 2, however, is ma- 
terially different ; the ball d being at 
a considerable distance from b, the 
canon may be readily missed, by 
playing either with more or less than 
the requisite degree of fulness ; 
when, by the position the balls will 
»btain, if incautiously and unsuc- 
v jssfully struck, an almost certain 
hazard or canon will remain : it will, 
therefore, be more expedient to play 
for the winning hazard to make a 
baulk ; as it will also in Case 8, 

Erovided e be the red ball, but if e 
e the adversary's ball, no loss can 
ensue from playing for the canon, as 
the adversary, in his close situation, 
will be incapable of taking advan- 
tage of a failure. In the two last 
cases of canoning, a little address 
will enable the striker either to 
pocket the ball b by the same stroke, 
or dispose it before a pocket for the 
succeeding ; in the former case, be- 
fore the pocket 1 ; iu the latter, be- 
fore the pocket i. 

Fig. 53. Case 4. 

Stinker's Ball off the Table. 

A full ball doublet winning hazard 
upon n, in the pocket g. 



A winning doublet hazard upon n, 
in the pocket h, and a losing dou 
blet hazard in the pocket f, by play- 
ing a i ball smart upon its right 
side. 

The reverse, by playing a f ball 
smart upon its left side. 

A canon by playing a i ball, or a 
I ball upon the left side of n, if the 
third ball is situated at q ; if at either 
o or p, by playing a £ ball upon its 
left side. 

If n be the adversary's ball, and 
the red ball be at q, play for the win- 
ning hazard to obtain the canon, 
upon n being replaced upon its pro- 
per spot. 

If n be the adversary's ball, and 
the red ball be either at o or p, give 
a miss, if your adversary wants 
more than three points to complete 
his game, and lay your ball at a 
short distance from the opposite 
cushion. 

Supposing n the adversary's ball, 
and the red ball to be situated at t, 
play to hole the latter in the pocket 
h, with moderate strength. 

If n be the red ball, and the adver 
sary's ball occupy the spot at o, give 
a point, if the adversary's game 
wants more than three of being up, 
and lay your ball at r. 

If n be the red ball, and the adver 
sary's ball is either at p or t, carry 
the latter gently to the pocket h, and 
in the event of holing it, make a 
baulk. 

N. B. It should be a rule never to 
make the winning hazard upon the 
white ball, (if any other mode of 
scoring presents itself at the same 
time,) when you will have no hazard 
upon the red ball afterwards, or will 
be unable to make a baulk, or bring 
one of the balls into the baulk, and 
leave the other safe. By pocketing 
the adversary's ball, you give him 
the whole range of the striking 
ring to play from, and consequently 
an opportunity of profiting by yout 
leaving the balls to any disadvan- 
tage. 



54 



625 



84 



BILLIARDS. 



Fig. 54. 



Fig. 64. Case 1. 
Striker's Ball off the Table. 



A } ball winning hazard upon a, in 
the pocket h. 

A | ball winning hazard upon b, in 
the pocket g. 

A losing hazard upon a, in the 
pocket h, by playing either a j ball, 
or a high stroke nearly full upon its 
left side from the point e. 

The same with regard to b, in the 
pocket g. 

A canon by playing a I ball 
either upon the right side of a, or 
upon the left side of h, from the 
point f. 

Play for the canon with mode- 
rate strength upon the adversary's 
ball. 

Fig. 54. Case 2. 
Striker's Ball off the Table. 

A full ball winning hazard upon b, 
in the pocket h. 

A full ball winning hazard upon c, 
in the pocket g. 

A canon by playing a i ball upon 
the right side of b, from the point d, 
or upon the left side of c from the 
point h. 

Either by a low stroke carry the 
adversary's ball to the corner pocket, 
or canon upon the adversary's ball, 
with a strength that will bring your 
own rather below the middle pocket, 
if you happen to fail, and leave the 
former above the red ball. 



Fig. 54. Case 3. 

A winning hazard upon f, in the 
pocket h, by playing a i ball upon 
its left side from the point f. 

The same upon k, in the pocket 

f • 

A canon by playing a i ball 
strong upon the cushion side of either 
ball. 

Carry the adversary's ball gently 
to the corner pocket, and play a low 

0:26 



stroke, so as to leave youi own near 
to the side cushion : if you succeed 
in holing it, give a point, and lay 
your ball in the baulk. 

N. B. In the cases above described, 
and all similar ones, it should be a 
rule to play at the adversary's rather 
than the red ball. In the first, it will 
be proper to play for the canon in 
preference to the hazard, as a failure 
with regard l o the latter, would al- 
most inevitably prove the loss of 
two or more poiuts, by leaving a 
canon for the adversary ; whereas, 
by playing for the former you will 
be enabled to lay the balls safe, in 
the event of your stroke proving 
unsuccessful ; but in the last, in 
playing at the hazard, although un- 
successfully, the striker's ball will 
remain out of danger, and the adver- 
sary will be laid close under the 
cushion, in which situation he must 
play to a disadvantage, and will run 
the risk of leaving his game open, 
if he attempt to score otherwise, 
than by gently dropping the white 
ball in return, to the opposite corner 
pocket. 

Fig. 54. Case 4. 

Striker's Ball off the Table. 

A winning hazard upon n, in the 
pocket h, by playing a I ball upon 
its left side, "from the point d. 

A winning hazard upon m, in the 
pocket g, by playing a j ball upon 
its right side from the point h. 

A winning doublet hazard upon n, 
in the pocket p, by playing a full 
ball from the point e. 

A winning doublet hazard upon m, 
in the pocket o, by playing a full 
ball from the pocket g. 

A canon by playing strong upon 
either ball in the nick, from the most 
distant part of the striking ring, as 
from the point h, with regard to the 
ball n. 

Play for the doublet hazard upon 
the adversary's ball, by a low stroke, 
and use a strength that will leave it 
near to the lower cushion, if you do 
not pocket it. 



EXAMPLIS. 



81 




Fig. 66* 



Fig. 65. Case 1. 
Striker's Ball off the Table. 

A canon, and a winning hazard 
upon c in the pocket f, by playing a 
J ball smart upon its riglft side from 
the point b. 

A canon by playing a £ ball upon 
the right side of d, from the point a, 
or a i ball upon its right side from 
the point e. 

If c be the adversary's ball, canon 
upon d, from the point a, strong 
enough to leave it a hazard for the 
middle pocket. 

Supposing c the red ball, and the 
adversary's ball to be d, play for the 
canon upon the latter from the point 
e, smart enough to carry c to the 
middle of the table, and leave a 




winning hazard npon d, in the 
pocket n. 

If c be the red ball, and the adver- 
sary's ball be near to the cushion as 
at e, play upon c for the winning 
hazard and the canon. 



Fig. 55. Case 2. 

The hazard represented m Case 1 
Fig. 34. 

A winning hazard in the pocket h, 
and a canon by playing smart upon 
k in the nick. 

If i be the adversary's ball, play 
for the winning and losing hazard 
upon its right side. 

If i be the red ball, play upon 
k for the winning hazard and the 
canon. 



e27 



86 



BILLIARDS. 



Pig. 66. 



Fig. 56. Case 1. 



Striker's Ball off the Table; — red 
Ball on the spot; — d, adversary's 
Ball, too high for a canon, by 
playing as in Case 4, Fig. 53, and 
too bio to admit of a canon being 
easily made, as in Case 1, Fig. 55. 

A winning hazard upon d, in the 
pocket e, by playing a i ball upon 
its right side from the point e, or a I 
ball from the point a. 

A losing hazard upon d, in the 
pocket e, by playing a £ ball upon 
its left side from the point c. 

A full ball winning doublet hazard 
upon d, in the pocket k, by playing 
from the point e. 

A full ball winning doublet hazard 
upon d, in the pocket 1, by playing ' 
rom the point a. 

A losing doublet hazard upon d, 
in the pocket f, by playing a £ ball 
smart upon its right side from the 
point a. 

Play for the doublet hazard in the 
pocket 1, and strike low upon your ! 



ball, that it may remain nearly in the 
place occupied by that of the adver 
sary, and with such a degree cf 
3trength as will just serve to bring 
the latter to the bottom of the 
table. 

Should the order of the balls be 
reversed, and the adversary's ball 
happen to occupy the neighbourhood 
of the spot, and the red ball be at d, 
while the striker is either off the 
table, or situated about the striking 
ring, he may either play fine upon 
the right side of g, for the canon, by 
which he will either hole g in f, or 
lay it over the pocket, or he may 
play for the losing hazard in the 
pocket e smart, by which he will 
part the balls, as in Case 2, Fig. 50; 
or he may play a i ball high stroke 
smart upon the left side of g, in 
order either to hole it in the upper 
corner pocket h, or lay it under the 
cushion, while his own ball assumes 
the position i. Of these modes of 
play, the first will be most profitable 
if successful, the latter more safe, If 
the stroke prove ineffectual. 



62* 



RULES OF THE RED WINNING GAME. 87 

CHAPTER V. 

RULES OP THE RED WINNING (CARAMBOLE) GAME. 

The Red Winning Game is described at page 587. We 
have now to give the rules and directions. 

Section I. — Rules for the Red Winning Game. 

1. The stroke, and the choice of balls must, in the first 
place, be strung for, as in the winning and losing game. 

2. The red ball is to be placed on a spot made for that pur- 
pose, in the centre, between the stringing nails or spots at the 
bottom of the table, lower down than in the carambole win- 
ning and losing game. 

3. The white or striker's ball is to be played from a spot 
made for that purpose, or from within the ring in the centre 
of the baulk. 

4. After the first striker has played, his adversary is to 
play next, and so on alternately ; or the striker is to follow 
his gaining stroke, as may have been previously agreed upon. 

5. If the striker miss both balls, he loses one point ; if by 
the same stroke he strike his own ball into a pocket, he loses 
three points. 

6. If the striker hits the red ball and his adversary's ball 
with his own ball he wins two points ; this is called a canon. 

7. If the striker holes his adversary's ball, he wins two 
points 

8. If the striker holes the red ball, he wins three points. 

9. If the striker holes his adversary's ball, and the red 
ball by the same stroke, he wins five points. — N. B. Two for 
the white, and three for the red ball. 

10. If the striker makes a canon, and at the same time 
pockets his adversary's ball, he wins four points. — N. B. Two 
for the canon, and two for holing the white ball. 

11. If the striker makes a canon, and at the same time 
holes the red ball, he wins five points. — N. B. Two for the 
canon, and three for pocketing the red ball. 

12. If the striker makes a canon, and by the same stroke 
holes both his adversary's and the red ball, he wins seven 
points. — N. B. Two for the canon, two for the white, and 
three for the red hazard. 

54* 629 



88 BILLIARDS. 

13. If the striker forces either his adversary's or the red 
ball over the table, and by the same stroke holes his own 
ball, he counts nothing, but makes no forfeit. 

14. If the striker in playing a stroke should make his mace 
or cue touch two balls at the same time, it is deemed a foul 
stroke, and if discovered by the adversary, he wins nothing 
for any points he may have made by the stroke, and his adver- 
sary may break or part the balls, and play from the proper 
spot on the red ball, as at the beginning of the game. But 
if upon the foregoing stroke, which is deemed foul, his adver- 
sary does not break the balls, and play from the proper spot, 
&c, then the striker may reckon all the points he made by 
the stroke, and the marker is obliged to reckon them. 

15. If the striker makes a foul stroke, and at the same time 
holes his own ball, he loses two or three points, according to 
which ball he struck first. Three for the red, and two for the 
white. 

16. After a red ball has been holed or forced over the table, 
the striker is bound to see the ball placed on its proper spot 
again, before he strikes, otherwise he can win no points while 
the ball is out of its place, and the stroke he made is deemed 
foul. 

17. After the striker has made either a canon or a hazard, 
if he should touch either of the balls with his hand, stick, 
or otherwise, he gains no points, and the stroke is deemed 
foul. 

18. If the striker play with the wrong ball, the stroke is 
considered foul. 

19. If the striker play with the wrong ball, and his error 
be not discovered by his adversary, he may reckon all the 
points he made by the stroke, and the marker is obliged to 
score them. 

20. If the striker is about to play with the wrong ball, no 
one hath a right to discover his error to him, except his part- 
ner, if they are playing a four match. 

21. If the striker plays with the wrong ball, and at the 
same time makes a losing hazard, he loses either two or three 
points, according to which ball he struck first, and the stroke 
is considered foul. 

22. If the striker plays with the wrong ball, and misses 
both the remaining balls, he loses one point, and if the balJ 

630 






INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE RED WINNING GAME. 89 

should go into a pocket by the stroke, he loses three points, 
and it is deemed foul. 

N. B. The rest of the rules and regulations are likewise to 
be observed as in the carambole winning and losing game. 



Section II. — General Instructions for the Red Winning 
(Carambole) Game. 

The carambole winning game is by no means so full of 
variety as the winning and losing, but it requires a greater 
degree of judgment, and depends more materially upon the 
skill of the player. 

The general principles of tLe game, however, differ little 
from those of the preceding, ind most of the observations 
and cautions laid down for that, are applicable to both : the 
canons are precisely similar, and the striker is influenced by 
the same grand object of making the baulk. 

In the carambole winning game, the principal objects to be 
held in view by the striker, are, first, so to regulate his stroke, 
that in making the desired winning hazard, he may not at the 
same time make the losing, and secondly, to dispose the balls 
in such a manner, that his adversary may either have no 
hazard at all, or a hazard in playing which there will be an 
equal chance of holing his own and the ball he plays at. 

The first of these often requires a considerable share of 
address, for in certain situations of the balls, it will be found 
extremely difficult to pocket the one without the other; or to 
canon without at the same time pocketing the striking ball. 
The requisites in order to avoid these sources of danger, are, 
a perfect knowledge of the angles of the table, an ability in 
the striker to avail himself of the different modifications in 
the action of his instrument, and a studious attention to the 
different degrees of strength. 

It is not prudent in this, as in the winning and losing 
game, for the first player to make a miss ; for the red ball 
being upon the lower mark, (about midway between the centre 
of the table and the top cushion) the adversary will have a 
good winning hazard. It is preferable to bring the red ball 
into the baulk, and at the same time play rather high upon 
the striking ball, in order that it may roll onwards towards 

631 



00 BILLIARDS. 

the top cushion. In case of playing for the winning hazard, 
it will be prudent to use a degree of strength that will bring 
the red tall away from the pocket and your own in baulk, in 
the event of the attempt proving unsuccessful. 

Much of the success of the striker in this game, will depend 
upon his skill in striking the full or straight hazard. Some 
players are extremely expert at this, inasmuch as that when 
they get the balls in a direct line between two pockets, they 
are enabled to make the game by successive winning hazards, 
without allowing their adversary another opportunity of play- 
ing. Thus suppose the red ball to be on the spot, and the 
striker's ball behind it, in an angle with one of the middle 
pockets, his ball after holing the red, will, if it be projected 
evenly by the cue, roll a little ouwards, in consequence of 
which the striker will have to repeat his stroke for the corner 
pocket, after it has been replaced, and so on, backwards and 
forwards, until he commit a blunder, and lose the hazard. 
Others, on the contrary, who are, with regard to billiards in 
general, equally good players, make all other hazards with 
greater facility. The great art in making straight hazards, 
consists in the rapidity with which the eye surveys the pocket 
and the balls, and in the consequent smartness and sudden- 
ness of the stroke; for success in these cases will seldom 
allow of a very studied attention to the mode of striking, 
and " the more frequently the eye is suffered to wander from 
one ball to another, the more certainly will the stroke be 
unsuccessful." 

In this game the striker may often avail himself with great 
advantage, of a facility of making what are called reflected or 
doublet hazards ; for whenever the red ball is situated unfa- 
vourably, and the white ball presents no direct hazard, it is 
uniformly preferable to attempt the reflected hazard with gen- 
tle strength upon the latter. Hazards of this description are 
more easily to be made than they appear to be ; indeed there 
are few positions which a ball can obtain, in which it may not 
be doubled into one or another pocket, by a player perfectly 
acquainted with the angles of the table ; as is exemplified in 
Figs. 35, 36. The same directions however will not hold good 
with regard to the red ball, for in playing at this, the utmost 
caution should be used not to bring it into any hazardous 
situation, for which reason when the chances of scoring are 
632 



RULES FOR THE RED LOSING GAME. 91 

equal upon each ball, and no important advantage is in view, 
from playing at the red, it is uniformly deemed better play 
to choose the white. Whenever the reflected hazard is 
attempted, one caution should always be observed, namely, 
" in the case of the red hazard, to play strong enough to 
bring the ball away from the pocket, and in the case of the 
white hazard, to use such a moderate degree of strength as 
will leave it over the hole if it do not enter it. 

The red winning game possessing fewer chances than the 
winning and losing, the striker may more frequently with im- 
punity sacrifice an uncertain or difficult hazard, to the purpose 
of laying the balls safe ; he ought, therefore, in every case 
in which he despairs of scoring, to have one object only in 
view; to lay his own or his adversary's ball in that part of 
the table which affords no hazard or canon. 

CHAPTER VI. 

RULES OF THE RED LOSING CARAMBOLE GAME. 

The Losing Carambole Game is the reverse of the Win- 
ning, as stated at page 629. 

Section I. — Rules for the Red or Carambole Losing Game. 

1. The game begins in the same manner as the carambole 
winning game. 

2. If the striker misses both balls, he loses one point, and 
if he holes his own ball by the same stroke, he loses three 
points. 

3. If the striker pockets the red ball, he loses three points, 
and the red ball must be replaced upon its proper spot. 

4. If he pockets the white ball, he loses two points. 

5. If the striker by the same stroke, hole both the red and 
the white ball, he loses five points, two for the white, and 
three for the red ball. 

6. If the striker makes a canon, he wins two points. 

7. If the striker makes a canon and holes either of the 
object balls, he wins nothing for the canon, and loses either 
two or three points, as he may have struck the red or the 
white ball first. 

633 



92 BILLIARDS. 

8. If the striker plays at the white ball first, makes canon, 
and at the same time holes his own ball, he wins four points ; 
— two for the canon, and two for his losing hazard. 

9. If the striker plays first at the red ball, makes a canon, 
and also holes his own ball, he wins five points : — three for 
the losing hazard off the red ball, and two for the canon. 

N. B. The rest of the rules and regulations are likewise to 
be observed, as in the carambole winning, losing game, &c. 



Section II. — General Instructions of the Carambole Losing 

Game. 

The red or carambole losing game requires even more 
judgment than the winning, and the chances in it are often 
more various ; especially if the players do not properly under- 
stand the skilful part. It depends entirely upon the defence, 
and the knowledge of the degree of strength with which each 
6troke should be played, either to defend or make a hazard. 
When properly understood, however, a losing game hazard is 
much more easy to be made than a winning game hazard is 
in general. 

It will be unnecessary to repeat here many of the observa- 
tions we have already made, which will apply to billiards in 
general ; vide the general observations on the winning and 
losing game, Chap. 4, Sect. 2 ; precisely the reverse, however, 
of the rules laid down for the carambole winning game is 
applicable to the losing; the chief objects to be attended to 
by the striker, being to avoid making the winning hazard in 
attempting the losing. After what has been said with regard 
to the preceding games, the means of effecting this will rea- 
dily suggest themselves to the striker. 

It is of particular importance in this, as well as in the 
white losing game, for the striker to be able to play bricole, 
as it is termed ; for it is very common for a player, in order 
to ensnare his adversary, to lay his ball in such a way before 
a pocket, that the latter will often find it extremely difficult 
to avoid holing it, if he play the direct stroke ; by taking the 
proper angle, however, and striking the cushion previously, 
he may always obviate this danger, and will very generally 
be enabled to make the desired losing hazard. 
634 



THE SIMPLE CARAMBOLE GAME. 93 

CHAPTER VII. 

OF THE SIMPLE eARAMBOLE OR FRENCH GAME. 

Tbe simple carambole game (referred to at page 576,) is 
played with three balls, and consists usually of twelve points, 
which are scored by canons only, and forfeitures. It possesses 
but few chances, and consequently requires a considerable 
share of skill and judgment. It is seldom played alone, but 
usually by an able player against the winning and losing, or 
the winning game of an indifferent one; and is considered 
equal to giving fifteen out of twenty-four points. This is the 
game now played in France. A variety of this game is to 
make it consist entirely of doublet canons, and at the present 
day this is almost the only mode of play recognized in France ; 
it is therefore, par excellence, called French Billiards. 

Section I. — Rules for the Simple Carambole Game, 

1. The game commences in the usual manner, the red ball 
being placed upon its appropriate spot, and the players string- 
ing for lead, and choice of balls, as in the preceding games. 

2. The game is played in two different ways. In the first, 
both kinds of hazards lose, in the second, they count for no- 
thing; the first is the most usual mode of play, and the 
striker upon making either a winning or losing hazard, loses 
as many points as he would have gained by that particular 
stroke in the winning or losing game. 

3. If the striker misses both balls, he loses one point; if by 
the same stroke he pockets his own ball, he loses three points. 

4. If the striker makes a canon, he gains two points. 

5. If tbe striker makes a canon and holes himself off the 
adversary's ball, he loses two points for the hazard, and gaim 
nothing for the canon. 

6. If the striker makes a canon and holes himself off the 
red ball, he loses three points, and gains nothing for the canon. 

7. If the striker canons, and by the same stroke holes the 
adversary's ball, he loses two points. 

8. If the striker canons, and holes the red ball by the 
same stroke, he loses three points. 

9. If the striker canons, and hole both his own and the 
adversary's ball, he loses four points. 

635 



94 BILLIARDS. 

10. If the striker canons, and at the same time holes both 
his own and the red ball, he loses five points, if he played at 
the white, and six if he played at the red ball. 

11. If the striker canons, and holes all three of the balls 
by the same stroke, he loses either seven or eight points, 
aooording to the ball which he played at. 

The rules for the carambole winning and losing game, are 
also to be observed in the simple carambole game. 

Section II. — General Observations in the Simple Carambole 

Game. 

In the simple carambole game, as hazards are disregarded, 
it only remains for the striker either to endeavour to canon, as 
the only means of scoring, or to lay the balls safe, or in such 
a position that his adversary may obtain no canon. If he 
despairs of accomplishing the first, or deems the attempt 
attended with risk, the latter is more easily to be effected in 
this game than in any other, it having fewer chances ; and yet 
there are few positions of the balls in which it is not possible 
for an expert player to canon. Whoever has been much in 
the habit of frequenting billiard rooms, must have observed 
matches in which a common walking stick, or the hand without 
any stick, is played by a good player against the cue or mace 
of a bad one, and that the stick or hand player most com- 
monly comes off victor. If he were to pay a more minute atten- 
tion to such games, he would perceive that the greater number 
of points gained by the latter, are scored from canons, which 
his adversary had thrown in his way, through ignorance of the 
game ; and upon which he almost exclusively depends, being 
unable, under the disadvantage in which he is placed, to make 
a stroke firm enough to ensure many of the common winning 
and losing hazards; but to canon under a variety of circum- 
stances, requires a very great share of judgment and dexterity. 

CHAPTER VIII. 

RULES OF THE WHITE WINNING GAME. 

The white winning game is much more simple than any we 
have hitherto described. Together with the white losing game ; 
it is considered a key to Billiards in general, and may be use 
636 



RULES OP THE WHITE WINNING GAME. 05 

fully practised by learners, before they attempt the more 
complex carambole games. (See the introductory account 
of the White Ball Games, at page 575.) 

Section I. — Rules for the White Winning Game. 

1. The game begins by stringing for the lead and choice 
of balls, as in the u Winning and Losing Game." Rules 1-6. 

2. Immediately after a hazard has been won, the balls are 
to be broken, and the striker is to lead as at first. 

3. When a hazard has been lost in either of the corner 
pockets, the leader is, if his adversary requires it, to lead from 
the end of the table where the hazard was lost ; but if the 
hazard was lost in either of the middle pockets, it is at the 
leader's option to play from either end of the table he pleases. 

4. If the striker misses his adversary's ball, he loses one 
point; if by the same stroke he holes his own ball, he loses 
three points, as in the carambole games. 

" 5. If the striker holes his own or both balls, or forces both 
of them over the table, or on a cushion, he loses two points." 

" 6. If the striker forces his adversary's ball over the table, 
or on a cushion, he scores two points." 

11 7. If the striker who plays the stroke, should make his ad- 
versary's ball go so near the brink of a pocket, as to be judged 
to stand still, and it should afterwards fall into it, the striker 
wins nothing, and the ball must be put on the brink where it 
stood, for his adversary to play at the next stroke." 

" 8. If the striker's ball should stand on the brink or edge 
of a pocket, and if in attempting to play it off he should 
make the ball go in, he loses three points." 

" 9. If a ball should stand on the brink or edge of a pocket, 
and it should fall into the pocket, before or when the striker 
has delivered his ball from his mace or cue, so as to have no 
chance for his stroke, in that case the striker's and his adver- 
sary's balls must be placed in the same position, or as near 
as possible thereto, and the striker must play again." 

" 10. If by a foul stroke, the striker laoles his own or both 
balls, or forces his own or both balls over the table, or on a 
cushion, he loses two points." 

11. He who does not play as far as his adversary's ball, 
loses one, or his adversary may oblige him to pass the ball, 

55 637 



96 BILLIARDS. 

more especially in giving a miss ; or, he can, if he choose, 
make him replace the ball, and play until he has passed it. 

12. If the striker plays with a wrong ball he loses the 
'ead, if hiu adversary requires it. 

13. If the ball should be changed in a hazard, or in a game, 
and it is not known by which party, the hazard must be played 
out by each party with their different balls, and then changed. 

14. If the striker plays with his adversary's ball, and holes 
or forces the ball he played at over the table, it is deemed a 
foul stroke. 

" 15. If the striker plays with his adversary's ball, and 
misses, he loses one point ; and if his adversary discovers that 
he has played with the wrong ball, he may break the balls 
and take the lead." 

16. In all the before-mentioned cases of playing with th* 
wrong ball, if the error of the striker is not discovered, hi* 
adversary must play with the ball the striker played w 
throughout the hazard, or break the balls and take the lead 

17. Whoever proposes to break the balls, and his adve» 
sary agrees to it, the proposer thereof loses the lead. 

The remaining Rules are the same in the Winning an' 
Losing Game. 

Section II. — General Instructions. 

The general principles of the red winning game may be ap 
plied with little variation to the white. Vide Chap. 5, Sect. 2 

CHAPTER IX. 

RULES OF THE WHITE LOSING GAME. 

The white losing game is the reverse of the white winning 
the points in it being reckoned by losing and double hazards 
Like the white winning game it is played with the two whitt 
balls, and is twelve up. 

Section I. — Orders for the White Losing Game. 

1. At the beginning you must string for the lead, and foi 
the choice of the balls as in the other games. 

2. If the striker misses the ball he loses one, and if he holt 
his own ball by the same stroke, he loses three points. 

638 



kULES FOR THE GAME OF POOL. Dt 

3. If the striker holes his adversary's ball, he loses two 
points. 

4. Forcing either or both the balls over the table, or on a 
cushion, reckons nothing, but the striker loses the lead. 

5. If the striker misses the adversary's ball, and forces his 
cwn ball over the table, &c. he loses one point and the lead. 

6. If the striker holes his own ball, he wins two points. 

7. If the striker holes both balls, he wins four points.* 

8. If the striker holes either of the balls, and forces the 
other over the table, &c, he loses the lead only. 

N. B. The rest of the regulations, &c. as in the winning 
and losing, and winning games, are likewise to be observed. 

Section II. — General Observations. 

Vide the general observations on the Red Losing Game, 
Chap. 6, Sect. 2. 



RULES FOR THE GAMES OF POOL. 

There are several ways of playing Pool, — namely, with as 
many balls as there are players; or with two balls only, the 
players playing in turns, and playing with the alternate balls ; 
playing at the nearest ball ; playing at the last player ; or the 
player playing at whichever ball he choose. But the most 
popular and perhaps the fairest mode is that in which each 
has his own ball of a distinguishing colour, and plays at the 
last player. 

The following are the rules, according to this last method. 

1. When coloured balls are used, the players must play 
progressively in the order in which the colours are placed on 
the Pool marking-board, the top colour being No. 1. 

2. Each player has three lives at starting. No. 1 places 
his ball on the winning and losing spot. No. 2 plays at No. 
1. No. 3 at No. 2, and so on, each person playing at the 
last ball ) unless it should be in hand, then the player plays 
at the nearest ball. 

3. If a striker should lose a life in any way, the next player 
plays at the nearest ball to his own ; but if his (the player's) 

* This rule does not seem consistent, but is so given by White and 
Kentfield. 

639 



08 BILLIARDS. 

ball be in hand, he plays at the nearest ball to the centre of 
the baulk line, whether in or out of baulk. 

4. Should a doubt arise respecting the distance of balls, it 
must (if at the commencement of the game, or if the player's 
ball be in hand,) be measured from the centre spot in the 
circle ; but if the striker's ball be not in hand, the measure- 
ment must be made from his ball to the others ; and in both 
cases it must be decided by the marker, or by a majority of 
the company; but should the distances be equal, then the 
parties must draw lots. 

5. The baulk is no protection at Pool under any circum- 
stances. 

6. The player may lose a life by any of the following 
means : — by pocketing his own ball ; by running a coup ; by 
missing the ball ; by forcing his ball off the table ; by play- 
ing with the wrong ball ; by playing at the wrong ball ; by 
playing out of his turn ; or by having his ball pocketed, or 
forced off the table by another player. 

7. Should the striker pocket the ball he plays at, and by 
the same stroke pocket his own, or force it over the table, he 
loses the life, and not the person whose ball he pocketed. 

8. Should the player strike the wrong ball, he pays the 
same forfeit to the person whose ball he should have played 
at, as he would have done if he had pocketed it. 

9. If the striker misses the ball he ought to play at, and 
strikes another and pockets it, he loses a life, and not the per- 
son whose ball he pocketed ; in which case the striker's ball 
must be taken off the table, and both balls should remain in 
hand, until it be their turn to play. 

10. If the striker, whilst taking his aim, inquires which is 
the ball he ought to play at, and should be misinformed by any 
one of the players or by the marker, he does not lose a life, but 
the balls must be replaced, and the stroke played again. He is 
not, however, at liberty to take a life, but must play for safety. 

11. If information is required by the player, as to which 
is his ball, or when it is his turn to play, he has a right to an 
answer from the marker or from the players. 

12. If a ball, or balls, should be in the way of, or touch, the 
striker's ball, so as to prevent his hitting any part of the object 
ball, he may have them taken up until the stroke be played, and 
after the balls have ceased running they must be replaced. 

640 



RULES FOR THE GAME OP POOL. 



99 



13. If a ball or balls are in the way of a striker's cue, so 
that he cannot play at his ball, he can have them taken up. 

14. When the striker takes a life, he may continue to play 
on as long as he can make a hazard, or until the balls are all 
off the table, in which latter case he plays from the baulk, or 
places his ball on the spot as at the commencement. 

15. The first person who loses his three liyes is entitled to 
purchase, or, as it is called, to star (a star being the mark 
placed against his lives on the board, to denote that he has 
purchased,) by paying into the pool the same sum as at the 
commencement, for which he receives lives equal to the lowest 
number on the board. 

16. If the first person out refuse to star, the second person 
may do it, but if the second refuse, the third may do it, and 
so on, until only two persons are left in the pool, in which 
case the privilege of starring ceases. 

17. Only one star is allowed in a Pool. 

18. If the striker should move another ball whilst in the act 
of striking his own ball, the stroke is considered foul ; and if, 
by the same stroke, he pocket a ball, or force it off the table, 
the owner of that ball does not lose a life, and the ball must 
be placed on its original spot, but if, by that stroke, he should 
pocket his own ball, or forces it off the table, he loses a life. 

19. If the striker's ball touch the ball he has to play at, he 
is then at liberty either to play at it or at any other ball on 
the table, and it is not to be considered a foul stroke ; in this 
case, however, the striker is liable to lose a life, by going into 
a pocket or over the table. 

20. After making a hazard, if the striker should take up 
his ball, or stop it, before it has done running, he cannot 
claim the life, or the hazard, from the person whose ball was 
pocketed ; it being possible that his own ball might have gone 
into a pocket, if he had not stopped it. 

21. If, before a star, two or more balls are pocketed by the 
pame stroke, including the ball played at, each having one 
life, the owner of the ball first struck has the option of star- 
ring; but should he refuse, and more than one remain, the 
persons to whom they belong must draw lots for the star. 

22. Should the striker's ball stop on the spot of a ball re- 
m »ved, the ball which has been removed must remain in 
hi id until the spot is unoccupied, and then be replaced. 

55* 641 



100 BILLIARDS. 

23. If the striker should have his next player's ball re- 
moved, and stop on the spot it occupied, the next player must 
give a miss from the baulk to any part of the table he thinks 
proper, for which miss he does not lose a life. 

84. If the striker has a ball removed, and any other than 
the next player's ball should stop on the spot it occupied, the 
ball removed must remain in hand, till the one on its place 
be played, unless it should happen to be the turn of the one 
removed to play before the one on its place, in which case 
that ball must give place to the one originally taken up ; after 
which it may be replaced. 

25. If the corner of the cushion should prevent the striker 
from playing in a direct line, he can have any ball removed 
for the purpose of playing at it from a cushion. 

26. The two last players cannot star or purchase; but they 
may divide, if they are left with an equal number of lives 
each ; the striker, however, is entitled to his stroke before 
the division. 

27. All disputes to be decided by a majority of the players. 

28. The charge for the table to be taken out of the poo. 
before it is handed over to the winner. 

Rules for Pool-playing at the last Player. 

When coloured balls are used in playing this game, the 
players must play progressively as the colours are placed on 
♦he marking-board, the top colour being No. 1. 

THE NEAREST BALL POOL. 

In this Pool the players always play at the nearest ball out 
of the baulk ; for in this Pool the baulk is a protection. 

1. If all the balls be in the baulk, and the striker's ball in 
hand, he must lead to the top cushion, or place the ball on 
the winning and losing spot. 

2. If the striker's ball be within the baulk line, and he has 
to play at a ball out of the baulk, he is allowed to have any 
ball taken up that may chance to lie in his way. 

3. If all the balls be within the baulk, and the striker's 
ball not in hand, he plays at the nearest ball. 

All the other rules of the former pool are to be observed 
%t this. 
642 



101 



BAGATELLE GAMES. 



The following games are played on a board, which is 
usually from six to ten feet in length, and from one foot nine 
inches to three feet wide, lined with green cloth ; a slip of 
thin wood being placed round the inside of its upper end, to 
form a semicircle. 

There are nine cups let in level with the cloth, numbered 
one to nine, into which the balls are to be driven in playing 
the two first mentioned games, (La Bagatelle and Sans Egal.) 

There is also a bridge with small arches likewise numbered 
from 1 to 9, and through which the balls are to be driven in 
playing the two last mentioned games (Mississippi and Trou 
Madame) when the cups are not used. 

There are likewise two small cushions placed against the 
sides, to be used in the game of Mississippi ; or instead of 
these the boards are sometimes stuffed round the sides. 

LA BAGATELLE. 

Any number of players may join in this game, and use 
either the mace or cue as may be agreed. 

Each player strikes a ball up the board, and whoever gets 
the highest number is entitled to the lead, and takes posses- 
sion of the nine balls. 

The black ball (which counts for double) is placed on the 
white spot in front of the holes, at the beginning of every 
round, and must in the first instance be struck by one of the 
other balls before there can be any score. 

The striker's ball must be placed on the white spot nearest 
the other end of the board, and is to be struck with the mace 
or cue at the black ball, the object being to put it into one 
of the holes. The rest of the balls are to be played up in the 
game manner, either at the outstanding balls, or for the holes. 

Any number of rounds may be played for the game, as 
may be agreed upon at its commencement. 
&13 



102 SANS EGAL — MISSISSIPPI — TROU MADAME. 

The player who obtains the greatest number — counting the 
holes into which he puts the balls, according to the figures 
marked within them — wins the game. 

The holes along the edges of the board are for the purpose 
of marking the game. 

Any ball that rebounds beyond the centre, or that is driven 
off the board, cannot be used again during that round. 

SANS EGAL. 

This is played by two persons. 

The player who leads, which is decided as in bagatelle, 
chooses four balls of either colour, and places the black ball 
on the mark in front of the holes, and begins by striking one 
of his balls up the board. 

The other player then strikes one of his balls in the same 
manner, and so on alternately. 

He that holes the black ball counts it towards his game, 
and also all that he may hole of his own colour. 

If a player should hole any of his adversary's balls, it 
counts for the owner of the balls. 

The player who makes the greatest number of points in 
each round, takes the lead in the next. The game is 21, to 
31, according to the arrangement between the players. 

MISSISSIPPI. 

Place the bridge close up to the circle, and the small 
cushions against the sides. 

Each player is then to strike one ball through the bridge, 
and he who gets the highest number, has the lead, and plays 
the nine balls in succession. 

All balls must strike one of the cushions, previous to en- 
tering the bridge, otherwise the number reckons for the ad- 
versary. 

The game to consist of as many points as may be agreed 
on at its commencement. 

TROU MADAME. 

This is played in the same way as the preceding game, ex- 
cept that the balls are played straight from the end of the 
board through the bridge. 
644 



103 



RUSSIAN BAGATELLE, 

OR 

COCKAMAROO TABLE. 



debated end of the board, which is an in- 
clined plane, lowest at the striking end. 




©1 I r@ 
IT IT 

T 1 f T I 

1 ihifl T 

t T T T T 

T T T T 
T T T r r 

riii 

T T T T < T 



ULU 



2 12 6 9 7 3 13 5 10 4. 11 8 I 



Description of the Board. 

A cavity for the red ball to ba 
placed in, at the commencement of 
the game only. It counts double, 
»'. e. 100, as marked inside. 



An arch with a bell suspended 
■within it, which if rung by any ball 
in passing through, counts double for 
whatever that ball may score by the 
stroke. If it does not pass through, 
but merely falls into the cup under- 
neath, it counts only as marked, 
i e. 50. 

The remaining arches with cups 
beneath them, count respectively as 
marked, viz. 20 on the sides, and 25 
in the centre. 

The pegs are brass pins standing 
up, about H inches in height. 



There are slightly indented spots 
(one on each side of the board) from 
which the balls are projected. 



Cavities into which the balls run, 
they count according to the numbers 
placed above. 



I 



The board, which is generally four feet six inches in length, 
and two feet four inches in width, is lined with superfine green 
cloth. Those of the best description cost about fifteen guineas, 
and are made, if wished, to shut up so as to have the appear- 
ance of a Pembroke table. They are sold by Mr. Thurston 
of Catherine Street, and other respectable makers. 

645 



104 RUSSIAN BAGATELLE. 



Rules op the Game. 



I. Commence the game by stringing for the lead, as well 
as for choice of balls and side of board ; the player who gets 
the highest number takes the lead. 

IT. The leader must place his ball in the cavity on the side 
of the board he selects, and play it up, counting the points 
he may make by the stroke ; after which, his opponent plays 
from the opposite side of the board ; and so on alternately. 

III. When a ball lodges on the board without going into a 
hole or running down to the bottom, the game must be con- 
tinued with the other ball, each player using it alternately — 
whoever removes the ball so lodged, scores the number of 
points made by both the balls, and the game proceeds as at 
first. Should both the balls be lodged on the board, that ball 
which was last stopped must be taken up and used to con- 
tinue the game. 

IV. The player continues to lead, as long as he can hole 
his ball in any of the cups. 

V. The game to consist of one hundred or more, as may 
be agreed upon at the commencement. 

VI. If the player's ball ring the bell, that is passes through 
the bell arch, he scores double the number he would other- 
wise gain by the stroke. 

VII. Playing into the top hole (marked 100) is the game 
at once. 

VIII. Should the ball go round to the opponent's side, the 
striker loses five points and the lead ; or should he play hia 
ball up, and it returns without going on the board, he loses 
one point and the lead. 

IX. The winner of the game, takes the lead in the next. 



646 



105 



AMEKICAN BOWLS. 



Explanation of the Diagram. 

1. Ten pins, something in th« 
shape of large hock bottles, arranged 
in a triangle, its apex being nearest 
the player. 

2. Platforms, (called alleys,) about 
sixty feet in length and four feet in 
width, on which the balls are pro- 
pelled. The surface must be per 
iectly smooth and level. 

3. The white margins on each side 
of the platforms are channels into 
which the balls drop, when not dex 
terously propelled. 

4. The intermediate dark spaces 
or lines are grooves, elevated on 
frames about three feet above the 
level of the platform, with a slight 
inclination towards the bowler's end. 
By means of these grooves the balls 
are returned to the bowlers, boys 
being placed for that purpose on 
raised seats beyond the pins. 

6 The balls here laid on the 
marked line at the bowler's end of 
the platform show whence they are 
delivered by the player after he has 
taken his run along five or six feet 
of the platform. 

6. The balls lying in the grooves 
show how they are delivered to the 
bowler. They are returned to him 
at every setting up of the pins. 



At the further end of the platform is a recess of a few feet 
for the pins to fall in, and beyond this (to stop the balls) is 
a cushion covered with hide, which swiugs on hiDges, and is 
reverberated by springs. 

On one side of the room are sofas for the spectators, and at 
the bowling end seats for the bowlers; also refreshment tables 

647 




106 AMERICAN BOWLS. 

In the American Bowling Saloon, (393, Strand,) whence 
by the civility of Mr. Thomas Robson, the proprietor, the 
present particulars have been collected, there are six plat- 
forms (running parallel to each other,) and sometimes as 
many as forty or fifty players engaged on them at one time ; 
especially of an evening, when the saloon is brilliantly lighted, 
and enlivened by music. 

The chief art in playing at this somewhat athletic game 
seems to consist in hitting the apex or point-pin a half ball, 
(the larger the ball, the greater the chance of success,) but 
dexterity is only to be acquired by practice. Some players 
are so expert as to throw down the whole ten pins at one 
blow several times in succession, and as they are allowed 
three balls to each division, or setting up of the pins, those 
which are spared count in addition ; thus if a player at start- 
ing should knock down all the ten pins at one blow, this 
would count ten, and would leave a double spare or two spare 
balls, with which if he threw down eight more, he would add 
that number to his score and count eighteen in the first divi- 
sion, and then go on to the second division with his next 
three balls. If by a run of luck or skill the player should 
knock all ten pins with single balls, six times in the course 
of his ten divisions, he would have twelve balls to spare and 
would therefore be entitled to add to his score whatever he 
could make with them. When the ten pins are thrown down 
with two balls, one ball is spared, and counted after the same 
manner. The highest number it is possible to make with the 
balls allotted to the ten divisions, is three hundred, t. e. ten 
for each of thirty balls. The mode of keeping count is on a 
chequered slate of ten times ten squares, numbered from one 
to ten down the left or front side, the initials of the different 
players being placed at the head of the columns. It is usual 
either for players to follow alternately in single divisions or to 
play 2, 3, or 5 divisions, at a standing, as may be agreed. 

The uninitiated had better not be too fierce in his first 
onslaught, especially if he play with heavy balls, as the exer- 
cise is likely to try the muscles of his arm rather severely, 
and may leave a reminiscence for some days afterwards. 

The balls are usually of four different kinds, varying in 
size from four to eight inches in diameter, and from four or 
five to ten or eleven pounds weight. 
648 



RULES 01 GAME. 107 

RULES OF THE GAME. 

I. Each player to play sixpence per game, and be allowed 
tnree balls for each of the ten divisions ; but when spare balls 
are obtained, then to play on to the extent of them. 

II. Any number of players (not exceeding ten) can play 
together; the lowest half-division paying the game of the 
highest. 

III. (rambling strictly prohibited. 

IV. In playing, all pins knocked down considered fair, 
whether obtained by a front or back (i. e. reverberated) ball. 

V. No gentleman allowed to stand on the platform in front 
if the alleys except the players. 

VI. All ties to be decided by a single ball. 

VII. The marked line on the alleys is the utmost limit 
allowed to players in advancing to deliver the ball. 

VIII. Should any dispute arise between players, the Marker 
to be called as umpire, and his decision to be final. 

IX. The sofas behind the players to be reserved exclusively 
for their use. 

X. Two players cannot retain any alley exclusively to 
themselves when other parties are waiting to play. 

XI. Pitching or lofting the balls is not permitted, and any 
player doing so (after notice) forfeits his game from that 
point. 



There are several varieties of the game played in the 
United States, among which are the following : 

NINE BALL GAME, SOMETIMES CALLED BAL- 
TIMORE GAME. 

Any number may join in this; each player has nine balls. 
He may play on until out, or rest on each hand of three tails. 
Where two are engaged, the one making the least number of 
pins, pays for the game. 

This is, however, often played as a match, in which case 
if five are rolling, the two highest are clear, the third pays 
half a game, and the two lowest each pay for a whole game. 
The same proportion is to be observed when the number of 
players is increased. Spare balls are counted in this as all 
others, except the Philadelphia Game. 

56 649 



108 AMERICAN BOWLS. 



MATCH GAME 



Is played leg and leg, as it is called. Any even number 
of persons may join, rolling against the same number, three 
oalls only to each. Two semi-circles are drawn on the board, 
facing outwards, in which the legs of the game are to be 
marked. 

The result of each hand of three balls is put down, until 
all are out, when the lowest party have one leg marked 
against them. Thus : party A and party B are playing ; the 
first make on all their balls, 65 ; the last, 50 ; party B loses 
one leg of the game. They roll again, when party B makes 
60, and party A 50. A here loses one leg ; the third rolling 
decides the game, by the lowest party paying. 

I have here supposed the game to be best out of three roll 
ings, though this is optional with the players. I should prefei 
five legs to the game, the interest being much greater ; and 
again, many persons who are not constant players require two 
or three balls to be accustomed to them and the alleys. The 
price of this is double that of the Baltimore. 



PHILADELPHIA GAME. 

Nine balls to each player, spare balls not counted; eacn 
hand rolls out his nine balls, counting the actual number of 
pins down, and when all are down they are set up again, con- 
tinuing until the nine balls are out. An unskilful ball may 
sometimes, by striking out the head centre pin, make it no 
easy task to count a large number. 



WITHOUT THE CENTRE PIN. 

This is played by merely removing the head centre pin. 
As remarked in the Philadelphia Game, a good player only 
can make any large number, the ball often passing through 
the opening thus made, without striking either of the pins. 



COCKED HAT 

Is played by placing three pins up ; the two quarter are 
outer, and the head centre pins. In many other games, 
650 



GAMES. 109 

strength and chance may sometimes do much for one, but in 
this skill only can be successful. 



FOUR PIN GAME. 

The two quarter, the head and back centre pins, are placed 
on the alley the same as " Cocked Hat," with the addition of 
the back centre pin. As in Cocked Hat, a poor player must 
alwavs lose. 



TO LEAVE CENTRE PIN STANDING 

A difficult game even for a skilful player. The object 
is to make but nine pins, which counts one ; a ten-strike, or 
where all the pins are down by three balls, counts nothing. 



BOSTON GAME. 

In this game the four back pins only are left standing. 
Three balls to each player. One pin out will count six, but 
the whole five must be down to count ten. 



GAME FOR THE SMALLEST NUMBER. 

This is a singular, but not less interesting game than any 
other played. 

In all the others the object is to make as many pins as pos- 
sible ) in this to make as few. 

Thus : the balls must all run off the end of the alley, as 
those rolling off before reaching the end will each count ten. 
A good player may sometimes get but one pin — a good player 
only can do this. Three balls allowed each player. In a 
party of two or three the largest number of pins pays, an 
increased party the same proportion. 

I have seen ordinary players make more pins at this game 
than when counting by numbers, as the ball must be nicely 
balanced that will strike but one pin in passing off the end 
ef the alley. 

651 



no 



AMERICAN BOWLS. 



COUNTING OLD AND NEW. 

This is rarely understood by occasional players, but may 
be learned by a few moments practice on the board. 

The players having each nine balls, should the first ball 
bring the frame down, in other words be a ten-strike, the 
player will mark a double check mark above his first com- 
partment; should his second produce the same number, a 
similar mark above the space to the right ; if the third has 
the same result a double check is marked in the third space 

Thus, — the players initial to the left of his game : — 



— 76. This is made with 5 Balls. 



A 
B 


t 

30 


t 
28 


& 

t 

20 


t 
20 


t 

20 







-60. This with 6 Balls. 



Explanation. — His fourth ball will count the number of 
pins made with it, adding the two spares or 20 ; thus, if he 
make with his fourth ball 8 pins, he has on his second com- 
partment 28. Should his fifth ball roll off the alley, he will 
have made 18, the number counted on the previous spares. 

The above method is extensively used in the cities, having 
been adopted from the fact of reducing the time occupied by 
one game, whilst it is equally interesting with the plan of 
counting for the three balls, separately, and at the same time 
giv^s the player an opportunity of making a heavy game. 



652 



Forty-Five. 



FORTY-FIVE. 



Forty-Five can be played by two or four persons, with 
a pack of fifty-two cards. Five cards are dealt to each 
player, by twos and threes, or vice versa, and the next card 
is turned for trump, as at euchre. The deal passes to the 
left, each player in rotation. 

The following tables will show the rank of the cards 
when trumps, or when not : 

THE RANK OF THE CARDS WHEN TRUMPS. 



i 



Clubs and 


Spades. 


Diamonds. 


Hearts. 


Fire, 




Five, 


Five, 


Knave, 




Knave, 


Knave, 


Ace of Hearts, 


Ace of Hearts, 


Ace, 


Ace, 




Ace, 


King, 


King, 




King, 


Queen, 


Queen, 




Queen, 


Ten, 


Two, 




Ten, 


Nine, 


Three, 




Nine, 


Eight, 


Four, 




Eight, 


Seven, 


Six, 




Seven, 


Six, 


Seven, 




Six, 


Four, 


Eight, 




Foua, 


Three, 


Nine, 




Three, 


Two. 13 in all 


Ten. 14 


in all, , 


Two. 14 in all. 




THE 


KANK OF THE CARDS WHEN NOT TRUMPS. 


Clubs and Spades. 


Diamonds. 


Hearts. 


King, 




King, 


King, 


Queen, 




Queen, 


Queen, 


Knave, 




Knave, 


Knave, 


Ace. 




Ten, 


Ten, 



6 $?> 







Forty-Five. 




Two, 




Nine, 


Nine, 


Three, 




Eight, 


Eight, 


Four, 




Seven, 


Seven, 


Five, 




Six, 


Six, 


Six, 




Five, 


Five, 


Seven, 




Four, 


Four, 


Eight, 




Three, 


Three, 


Nine, 




Two, 


Two. 12 in all. 


Ten. 13 in 


all 


Ace. 13 in all. 





From these tables it will be observed that the Five is 
first and the Jack second in rank when trumps, and that 
the Ace of Hearts is always trump, and ranks as the third 
best card. The holder of the Five or Knave has the 
privilege of revoking when it suits him to do so ; that is, 
he may retain the Five or Knave of trumps in hand, 
although trump be led, and the holder of the Ace of 
Hearts has also the privilege of revoking from any trump 
card but the Five or Knave ; but in all other cases the 
players must follow suit when trumps are lead, under 
penalty of forfeiting the game. The largest trump always 
forces the smaller, as in the game of Spoilt Five; thus the 
Knave of trumps unguarded must be played upon the 
Five of trumps. The Ace of Diamonds, which is fourth 
in order when that suit is trumps, is the lowest when not 
trumps. The usual rank of the inferior card is reversed 
in the black suits, the the Two being above the Three, 
the three above the Four, and so on, the Ten ranking 
lowest, whether trumps or not. 

When a lay suit is l»d, the players must follow suit or 
trump. 

The King or Ace, when turned up by the dealer, counts 
five. Any person holding the King of trumps must, 
when it comes to his turn to play, lay out a card for it ; 
and if the Ace should not be in play, the trump turned 
up is his. Should the Ace be out, the turned up trump 
654 



Forty-Five. — Rounce. 

belongs to its holder, and he who holds the King takes up 
the card he laid out. This is called "robbing the trump." 
The lead commences at the eldest hand, and each trick 
taken counts five. The game consists of forty-five, and 
the player or players (if partners) first scoring that num- 
ber, win the stakes. 



ROUNCE. 



Rounce, as played in the United States, is taken from 
the German game of Ramsch, and in its principles features 
resembles Division Loo. 

Rounce is played with fifty-two cards, which rank as at 
Whist. The deal is determined by cutting, and the player 
who cuts the lowest card is entitled to the deal. In cutting 
ihe Ace is low. Five cards are dealt to each player by 
two's and three's, as in the game of euchre, and an extra 
hand of six cards is dealt in the centre of the table which 
is called dumby. 

The dumby must be dealt before the dealer takes the 
full complement of cards himself, and should be lilled 
immediately preceding his own hand. When the cards 
have been dealt in the manner described, the dealer turns 
up the top card on the pack, which is the trump. After 
the first hand, the deal passes to the left. The game con- 
sists of fifteen points, which number is scored with three 
crosses, in the following manner : XXX. Each cross 
represents live points. When a player makes one point, 
he rubs out the centre of the cross, thus : X, and when he 
makes another point he rubs out one of the remaining 
portions of the cross, and so on until all are wiped out. 

655 



JOUNCE. 

After the ceremony of the deal has been concluded, the 
dealer asks each player in regular succession, beginning 
with the eldest hand — t. e., the player immediately to the 
left of the dealer — what he will do, whether he will stand 
his hand, take dumby, or decline playing for that round. 
The eldest hand has first privilege of taking dumby, and 
if he elects to do so, he must place his hand in the centre 
of the table, face down, and discard one card from his 
new hand. If he declines to take dumby then the option 
passes to the next player, and so in succession to the 
dealer. 

Whoever takes dumby must play it. Any player who 
thinks he cannot take a trick may decline to play his hand. 
When all refuse to play then the player at the right of the 
dealer must play his hand, take dumby, or in default of 
doing either, give the dealer five points. The dealer may 
discard any card in his hand and take in hand the card 
turned up for trump. 

Each trick taken in play counts one point, and if a 
player fail to take a trick after entering to play his hand, 
he is Rounced, that is sent up five points, which adds a X 
to his score. 

In this game suit must be followed : but if this is not 
possible, a player may trump or not, at his option. The 
winner of a trick must lead a trump, if he can ; if how- 
ever, he holds no trump, he may lead any card he chooses. 
If the dealer make a misdeal, he is rounced, and loses his 
deal. A player is also rounced if he fail to follow suit 
when he can, or to lead a trump after taking a trick, 
when it is possible for him to do so. 

The German game Ramsch, differs from Rounce in the 
following particulars : — 1st. The game is played with a 
pack of thirty-two cards, the same as euchre. 2d. A player 
is not compelled to lead trumps if he has already done so 
twice. 3d. If a player holds no trumps, and elects to play 
his hand, trusting to make a trick in good cards of other 
656 



Rounce. — Pedro Sancho. 

suits, he may, in his proper turn, play his poorest card 
face down, which card represents a trump, and such a lead 
calls for a trump from every player who holds one. In 
all other particulars, Ramsch is identical with the Ameri- 
can game of Rounce. 



PEDRO SANCHO. 



The game of Pedro Sancho is played the same as Com- 
mercial Pitch or Auction All-Fours; with the following 
exceptions : 

I. — The Five of trumps is called Pedro, and counts five 
in the scorce. 

II. — The Nine of trumps is called Sancho, and counts 
nine in the score. 

III. — It is possible to hold eighteen points in one hand, 
and the points score and take precedence in the following 
order, viz : — 1st, High ; 2d, Low ; 3d, Jack ; 4th, Game ; 
one point each. 5th, Pedro, five points; 6th, Sancho, 
nine points. 

IV. — Pedro and Sancho, like Jack and Game, are not 
sure cards ; they may be respectively captured by any 
trump of a higher denomination, and count in the score of 
the winner of the trick containing them. 

V. — The dealer sells the trump ; not the eldest hand, as 
in Auction All-Fours. 

VI. — The bids may pass around the board one or more 
times, until all the players are satisfied. For instance : 
after all the players (once around) have bid or refused, 
they may again, in turn, supersede their former bids; and 
this process may be repeated until the highest possible bid 

65 7 



Pedro Sancho. 

that can be obtained has been made, and accepted or re- 
jected by the dealer. 

VII. — The game is won by the player who first scores 
fifty points. 

In scoring, each player commences with fifty points (or 
more, if previously agreed). All points made are deducted 
from the player's score; any accepted bid not accomplished 
is added to his score. The player whose score is first re- 
duced to nothing wins the game . 

The game is usually kept by a scorer, chosen by mutual 
agreement. It his business to see that the points claimed 
by any player are in accordance with the cards held by 
him ; he must also declare the state of the game, when 
requested to do so by any of the players. 

A player whose bid has been accepted, is permitted to 
score not only the amount of his bid, when he has made it, 
but also any points he may succeed in making in excess of 
his bid. 

If the dealer refuses to entertain the highest bid, he is 
entitled to score all the points he makes ; but if he fails to 
make as much as the highest bid offered, he is set back 
just that number of points. 

The first object for a player to attain in this game is, of 
course, to make points for his own score ; but, if he finds 
that he is not able to succeed, his next endeavor should be 
to do all in his power to set back the player who is striving 
to secure the amount of his bid ; in doing this, however, 
strict attention must be paid to the state of the score, and 
the play regulated in accordance with it. Thus, it is good 
policy, when a player holds points which he finds he can- 
not make, to play them, if possible, into the hands of the 
one whose score is lowest. It is even better to let these 
points go to the bidder, if his score is low, than to perniit 
them to fall to another player whose score already stands 
high. 

658 



Pedro Sancho. 

If two players have already reduced their score to two, 
and one of them has made High, Game, Pedro and Sancho, 
the other player could go out before him with Low and 
Jack. 

The foregoing is the method usually adopted for play- 
ing the game of Pedro Sancho. There are, however, a 
few modifications which find favor in some localities. 
These are as follows : 

1. When four play, the four Threes may be discarded 
from the pack, and twelve cards dealt to each player, so 
that all the cards are in play. For eight players, six cards 
to each will produce the same result. When less than 
four play, nine or twelve cards may be dealt to each, as 
agreed upon, to increase the chances of counting-cards 
being out. 

2. The Deuce only is low, and is not a sure card, as in 
the regular game, but counts for the taker instead of the 
holder. If the Deuce of trumps has not been dealt, no 
point can be scordd for low. 

3. Game is represented solely by the Ten of trumps, 
which can be captured by any higher trump. If the Ten 
has not been dealt, no one can score the one point for 
game. 

4. The Joker is sometimes introduced ; it scores fifteen, 
is captured by any trump card, ifc being the lowest trump, 
and is low. In scoring, the Joker, or Dom, counts after 
Pedro. In this case thirty-three points may be scored. 
The game thus played is "Dom Pedro." 

5. The player who has the pitch can only, if successful, 
score the amount of his bid. The other players scoring at 
the close of the round any points each has made. 

6. The game is also played without Sancho, making the 
score only nine points, and game twenty-one points. This 
variety is generally known as "Pedro." 



659 



Penuchle. 



PENUCHLE. 

TWO-HANDED PEUCHLE. SO PLAYED WITH A 
PACK OF THIRTY-TWO CARDS. 

When the game is played by two only, it is commenced 
by cutting for deal ; or by one of them dealing the cards 
alternately, one at a time, face upwards — the player to 
whom the first Ace falls winning the first deal. In cutting, 
the highest card wins the deal, Ace being high, the other 
cards following their rank in the game, which is as follows: 
Ace, Ten, King, Queen, Knave, Nine, Eight and Seven. 
The face value of the cards is the same as in Sixty-Six. 

The dealer, after shuffling and cutting, deals each player 
eight cards, commencing with the eldest hand, by two and 
three at a time; the next or seventeenth card being turned 
up for trump, and laid on the table face upwards. If the 
trump card be a Seven, the dealer scores ten points for it 
at once. 

The eldest hand leads first, after which the lead belongs 
to the winner of the previons trick. Suit may or may not 
be followed, at discretion. After each trick, each player 
draws a card from the top of the talon, the winner of the 
previous trick first, continuing the drawing after each 
trick, until tha talon is exhausted. 

An announcement can only be made and scored by the 
winner of the previous trick, and before drawing from the 
talon : and only one announcement can be declared at a 
time. When the talon is exhausted, no more announce- 
ments can be made, and suit must be followed ; if, how- 
ever, a player cannot follow suit, he must play a trump, if 
he has one. 

At the end of each round each player counts the face 
660 



Penuchle. 

value of the cards in the tricks he has won ; these points 
are added to the value of the announcements he has made, 
and the whole placed to his score ; the winner of the last 
trick counting ten points additional. 

The announcements are based on the cards held in hand 
at the time of announcing. 

The five highest trumps count 150 

Four Aces . . . , 100 

Four Kings 80 

Four Queens 60 

Four Knaves 40 

Penuchle, or Queen of Spades and Knave of 

Diamonds 40 

King and Queen of trumps 40 

King and Queen of any other suit 20 

The Seven of trumps counts for ten, and is exchangeable, 
when duly announced, for the turned-up card. 

If a player announces 40 trumps {King and Queen), and 
subsequently draws the other card necessary to constitute 
150 trumps, he may announce these also when he has the 
proper opportunity. If, however, he first announces 150 
trumps, he cannot afterwards announce 40 trumps. 

Five hundred points usually constitute the game, and as 
soon as a player knows he has scored the necessary points, 
he may throw down his hand and claim the game. If lie 
does this, and, on examination, it is is found that he has 
not sufficient points, he loses the game. 

FOUR-HANDED PENUCHLE. 

The method of playing this game is the same as laid 
down for " Four-Handed Sixty-Six." If this trump-card 
be a Seven, he scores ten points. If any other player holds 
the Seven, he exchanges that card for the turned-up 
trump, and scores ten points. The announcements, if any, 
are declared by each player immediately after he has 

66i 



Penuchle. 

played his card to the first trick — no sooner and no later. 
The score is reckoned at the end of each round, in the 
same manner as in the two-handed game ; the partners in 
the game combining their points, including the ten points 
for the last trick. 

THREE-HANDED PENUCHLE. 

In this game each player scores for himself. The cards 
are dealt around two or three at a time, giving ten cards 
to each player, leaving two cards not dealt. The first of 
these two is turned up for trump, and, if a Seven, scores 
ten points for the dealer at once. The player that holds 
the Seven of trumps exchanges his Seven for the turn-up, 
and scores ten points. The Seven and the last undealt 
card belong to the dealer, giving him twelve cards in all, 
out of which he must discard two before any play or any 
announcement is made. The two discarded cards belong 
to and are counted in with the tricks that the dealer may 
hereafter take, but they do not count unless he makes a 
trick. 

The announcements are made in the same manner as in 
the four-handed game, and count at once to the score of 
the announcing player. 

The three-handed game is generally played to decide 
who shall be the loser, and the first player who makes 
four hundred points retires from the game at the end of 
the round, leaving the other two players to continue up 
to five hundred points, in the manner laid down for 
4 'Two-Handed Penuchle." Where a stake is played for, 
the loser pays the winner; the middle, or second man 
out, neither winning uor losing. 



662 



Auction Pitch. 



AUCTION PITCH. 



Auction Pitch is played with a pack of fifty-two cards, 
which rank as at Whist, and by any number of persons, 
from four to eight. 

The deal is determined by cutting ; the player cutting 
the highest card deals. Ace is high. 

After the deal has been determined, and the cards have 
been shuffled and cut by the player to the right of the 
dealer, the dealer delivers six cards to each player, three 
at a time, in rotation, beginning with the player to his 
left. No trump is turned. After the first hand has been 
played, the deal passes in rotation to the left. 

After the cards have been dealt, the eldest hand (the 
player to the left of the dealer) proceeds to sell the privi- 
lege of pitching the trump. 

Each player in turn has the right to make one bid, but 
no more. 

The bidding proceeds in rotation, beginning with the 
player to the left of the eldest hand. The eldest hand has 
the last say, and may either sell to the highest bidder, or 
decline to sell, and pitch the trump himself. 

If the seller decline to entertain the highest bid, and 
pitch the trump himself, he is entitled, if successful, to 
score all the points he may make ; but if he fail to make 
as many points as the highest number oflered, he must be 
set back just that number of points, and he cannot score 
anything he may have made during the play of that hand. 

A player whose bid has been accepted may score not 
only the number of points he bid, if he make them, but 
also any points he may make in excess thereof. 

If a player buy the privilege of pitching the trump and 
fail to make or save the necessary number of points, he 

66 3 



Auction Pitch. 

must be set back the number of points he bid, and ho 
cannot score anything he may have made during the play 
of that hand. 

The seller, when he accepts a bid, scores the points at 
once, and before a card is led. 

If no bid is made, the seller must pitch the trump him- 
self. 

The game is ten points. All points a player may make 
are deducted from his score. All points a player may be 
set back are added to his score. The player whose score 
is first reduced to nothing wins the game. 

The points rank and are scored in the following order of 
precedence : 

High (the highest trump out). 2. Low (the lowest 
trump out). 3. Jack (the Knave of trumps). 4. Game. 

Low scores for the player who originally held it. Jack 
may be taken with any superior trump, and scores for the 
player who makes or saves it. 

In the event of a tie in counting game, that point is not 
scored by either party. 

The game is usually scored on a slate in the following 
manner : Two crosses are made thus, X X. Each cross 
represents five points. When a player makes one point, 
he rubs out the centre of the cross thus, — , and when he 
makes another point he rubs out one of the remaining 
portions of the cross, and so on until all are wiped out. 
If a player is set back, the additional points are marked in 
a similar manner. 

PLAYING THE HAND. 

After it has been determined who is to pitch the trump, 
the player having that privilege must lead a card of the 
suit he makes trump. Each player, beginning with the 
player to the left of the leader, plays a card to the lead. 
.When all the players have played to the lead, that consti- 
tutes a trick. 
664 



Auction Pitch. — California Jack. 

The highest card of the suit led wins the trick, and the 
winner of the trick has the next lead. 

After the first trick it is not compulsory to lead a trump, 
and a player may lead a card of any suit he chooses. 

Each player must follow suit if he can, unless he choose 
to trump. If he has no card of the suit led, he is not 
compelled to trump, but may piay a card of any suit he 
chooses. 

The playing proceeds in this way until all the cards held 
by each of the players are played out. After the hand is 
played the scores are made, and a new deal ensues ; this is 
continued until some player wins the game. 

If a player make a revoke he is debarred from scoring 
any point he may have made in the play of the hand ; and 
in addition, the revoking player must be set back the 
highest number of points that was bid (in the- hand) for 
the privilege of pitching the trump. 

Any loss an innocent player may have sustained by 
reason of the revoke, if claimed, must be rectified and 
made good, provided the same can be clearly demonstrated 
by subsequent examination of the tricks. 

In all other particulars this game is governed by the 
laws of All-Fours. 



CALIFORNIA JACK. 



This game is another of the numerous progeny of All- 
Fours. It is usually played by two or four persons, with 
a pack of fifty-two cards which rank as at Whist. 

The deal is determined by cutting the cards ; the player 
cutting the highest card deals. Ace is high; ties cut over. 

After the deal has been determined, and the cards cut 
by the player to the right of the dealer, the dealer delivers 

665 



California Jack. 

six cards to each player, three at a time, in rotation, be- 
ginning with the player to his left. 

After the cards have been dealt, the dealer turns the re- 
mainder of the pack (the stock) face upwards upon the 
board. The exposed card determines the trump suit. The 
exposed card is then taken by the dealer and slipped into 
the stock, as near the centre as possible, and the stock 
remains face upwards. Sometimes the dealer, instead of 
placing the trump card in the centre of the stock, shffles 
the stock back upwards, and then turns it face upwards 
again. This is done to prevent any possible indication of 
the whereabouts of the trump card. 

The eldest hand, that is the player to the left of the 
dealer, now leads any card he chooses, and each player, 
beginning with the player to the left of the leader, plays a 
card to the lead. 

When all the players have played to the lead, that con- 
stitutes a trick. The highest card of the suit led wins the 
trick, and the winner of the trick has the next lead. 

Each player must follow suit, if he holds a card of the 
suit led. If he has no card of the suit led, he is not com- 
pelled to trump, but may play a card of any suit he 
chooses. 

After each trick is played, the dealer gives the exposed 
card on the top of the stock to the winner of the trick, 
and the next card to the next player, and so on ; one card 
to each player, all face upwards. Each player will thus 
continue to hold six cards in hand until the stock is ex- 
hausted. 

The game is usually ten points, and the points score in 
the following order of precedence : 1. High, the Ace of 
trumps. 2. Low, the Deuce of trumps. 3. Jack, the 
Knave of trumps. 4. Game. High is the only sure point. 
Low, Jack and Game are each scored by the player who 
takes or saves them in play. 

The penalty for revoking is the same as in All-Fours. 
666 



Poker, or Bluff. 

26. Any player betting with more or less than five cards 
in his hand, loses the pool, unless his opponents all throw 
up their hands before discovering the foul hand. If only 
one player is betting against the foul hand, that player is 
entitled to the ante and all the money bet ; but if there 
are more than one betting against him, then the best hand 
among his opponents is entitled to the pool. 

27. If a player makes a bet and an adversary raise him, ! 
and the player who made the previous bet has not money 
sufficient to see the raise, he can put up all the funds he 
may have and call for a show for that amount. 

28. None but the eldest hand (age) has the privilege of 
going a blind. The party next and to the left of the eldest 
hand may double the blind, and the next player straddle 
it, the next double the straddle, and so on, but the amount 
of the straddle, when made good, must not exceed the 
limit of the game. 

29. A player cannot straddle a blind and raise it at the 
same time, nor can any player raise a blind before the 
cards are dealt* 

30. If the player to the left of the age decline to straddle 
a blind, he debars any other player from doing so. 

JACK-POTS. 

The Jack Pot is a modification introduced in the game 
of Draw Poker, and is played as follows : 

When all the players pass up to the blind hand, the 
latter allows his blind to rmain in the pot, and each of the 
other player dsposit a similar amount. The blind now 
deals, and any player, in Ms regular turn, may open or 
break the pot, provided he holds a pair of Jacks or better; 
but a player is not compelled to do so, this being entirely 
optional. 

Each player in turn, commencing with the one at the 
left of the dealer, declares whether he can or will open the 
pot ; if he decline to open he says: "I pass." If he has 
the requisite hand, elects to open, ho says : "I open." 

679 



Poker, or Bluff. 

If no player opens the pot, then each player deposits in 
the pool the same amount that was previously contributed; 
and the deal passes to the next player. The Same per- 
formance ensues until some player holds the necessary 
cards, and is willing to break the pot. 

A player may break the pot for any amount within the 
limits of the game, and each player in turn must make the 
bet good, raise it, or pass out. 

After all the players who determine to go in hare made 
good the bet of the player who opened the Jack Pot, and 
the hands have been rilled, then the player who opened 
tho pot makes the first bet. 

If all pass up to the player who broke tho pot, the latter 
takes the pool and can only be compelled to show the 
Jacks, or better, necessary to break the pot. 

A player who breaks the pot on a pair may split the 
pair in order to draw to a four flush or straight (if the 
latter be played); but if he does so, he must lay the dis- 
card to one side, separate from any other cards, so that 
after the result has beea determined, he may satisfy the 
other players that he broke the pot with a legal hand. It 
this precaution is not observed, and attention called to it, 
the delinquent is subject to penalty prescribed in the fol- 
lowing rule : 

When a player breaks the pot without holding the re- 
quisite cards to do so, he must deposit in the pool, as 
penalty, twice the amount of hi* original bet. 

[The amount of penalty for such an error should prefer- 
ably be mutually agreed upon before opening the game. 
The above penalty seems light enough, considering the 
injustice that an error of this kind might work on the rest 
of the players. It has been suggested that ten times the 
original ante would not bo an excessive penalty.] 

If no player come in except the one who broke the pot 
on an insufficient hand, a new hand must be dealt aud oie 
penalty added to the pot. 
680 



Poker, or Bluff. 

If one or more players participate in the call when such 
an eiror as the foregoing occurs, the player holding the 
best hand outside the delinquent player takes the pool ; or 
if a player drives the original breaker and all otheis out, 
then the pool must go to him. 

Progre9»ive Jack-Pots is played as follows ; When, after 
a deal, no one opens the game, the players each place 
another chip in pool, new hands are dealt, etc., as before 
described, and no player can, under the second deal, open 
with less than Queens or better, If a third deal becomes 
necessary, it requires Kings or better to break the pot ; 
and should it come to a fourth deal, it takes Aces or better, 
and so remains for any subsequent deals, until some 
player can aud will break Uio pot, 



681 



682 HOW TO PLAY GAMES. 



How to Play Dominoes. 



Dominoes are pieces of ivoiy or bone, generally with ebony 
backs. On the face of each there are two compartments, in 
each of which there is found either a blank, or black pits, from 
one to six. These are called, according to the numbers shown, 
Double-Blank, Blank-Ace, Blank-Deuce, Blank- Trey, Blank- 
Four, BlanV-Five, Blank-Six; Double- Ace, Ace -Deuce, Ace- 
Trey, Ace-Four, Ace-Five, Ace-Six; Double-Deuce, Deuce- 
Trey, Deuce-Four, Deuce- Five, Deuce- Six; Double-Trey, Trey- 
Four, Trey Five, Trey-Six; Double-Four, Four-Five, Four-Six; 
Diuble-Five, Five-Six; and Double Six — being twenty. eight in 
all. They are shuffled on the table with their backs up, and 
each player draws at random the number that the game requires. 
There are various games, but those principally played are the 
Block, Draw, Muggins, Rounce, Euchre, Poker, Bingo, 
Matador, and Bergen. 

BLOCK GAME. 

Each player draws seven from the pool. The highest double 
leads in the first hand, and, after that, each player leads alter- 
nately until the end of the game. The pieces are played one at a 
time, and each piece to be played must match the end of a 
piece that does not join any other. If a player cannot play, the 
next plays. If neither can play, the set is blocked, and they 
count the number of spots on the pieces each still holds. Who- 
ever has the lowest number of spots adds to his count the num- 
ber hddby his opponents. If there are two with the same num- 
ber of spots, and they are lower than their opponents, there is no 
count. If any one is able to .play his last piece while his op- 



HOW TO PLAY GAMES. 683 

ponents holds theirs, he cries u Domino," and wins the hand, 
and adds to his count the numher of spots the rest hold. The 
number required to win the game is one hundred, but it may be 
made less by agreement. 

DRAW GAME. 

Each player draws seven, as in the block game, and the game 
is subject to the same rule as block, except when a player can- 
not play he is obliged to draw from the pool until he can play, 
or has exhausted the stock of pieces, even though the game be 
blocked by his adversary. The player may draw as many pieces 
as he pleases. He rftstsS draw until he can match. After a 
lead has been made, there is no abridgment to this right. Many 
persons confound the Draw game with Muggins and the Bergen 
game, and in those games the rule is different, as follows: when 
a player can play, he isobliged to. The object of drawing is to 
enable him to play. Having drawn the required piece, the rule 
to play remains imperative as before The Draw game is, how- 
ever, based upon the unabridged right So draw, and is known as 
a distinctive gaeie by this privilege onlj\ 

MUGGINS. 

Each player draws five pieces. The highest Double leads, 
after that they lead alternately. The count is made by lives. If 
the one who leads caK put down any domino containing spots 
that amount to five or ten, as the Double Five, Six-Four, Five- 
Blank, Trey-Deuce, etc., he counts that number to his score in 
the game. In matching, if a piece can foe put down so as to 
make five, ten, fifteen or twenty, by adding the spots contained 
on both ends of the iow, it counts to the score of the one setting 
it. Thus a Trey being at one end, and a Five heing at the 
other, the next player in order putting down a Deuce-Five 
would score five; or, if Double-Trey was at one end, and a play- 
er was successful m playing <so as to get Double-Deuce at the 
other end, it would score ten for him. A Double-Six being at 
one end, and Four at the other, if the next player set [down a 



684 HOW TO PLAY GAMES. 

Double-Pour, he counts twenty — Double Six, i. e. 12 -\- Double- 
Four, i. e.2> = 20. The p) flyer who makes a count must in- 
stantly announce it when he plays his piece, and if he fail to do 
so, or if he announces the count wrongly, and any of his oppo- 
nents call " Muggins," he is debarred from scoring the count. 
If a player cannot match he draws from the pool, the same as in 
the Draw game, until he gets the piece required to match either 
end, or exhausts the pool. As in the Draw or Block game, the 
first one who plays his last piece adds to his count the spots his 
opponents have; and the same if he gains them when the game 
is blocked, by having the lowest count. But the sum thus added 
to the score is some multiple of five nearest the actual amount. 
Thus, if his opponents have twenty spots, and he has nineteen, 
he adds twenty to his score. If they have twenty-two he adds 
twenty, because that is the nearest multiple of five; but if they 
have twenty- three he would add twenty-five, twenty-three being 
nearer that than to twenty. The number cf the game is two 
hundred, if two play; but one hundred and fifiy, if there be 
three or more players. 

BERGEN GAME. 

Each player draws six pieces from the pool. The lowest 
double leads at the beginning, and is called a double-header. 
After that the parties lead alternately from right to left. If no 
one has a Double when his turn comes to lead, he plays the 
lowest piece he has. When a player sets down a piece which 
makes the extremities of the line the same, it is called a double- 
header. If one of the extremities be a Double, and the next 
player can lay a piece that will make the other extremity of the 
same value, or if a Double can be added to one end of a double- 
beader,it makes a triple-header. If a player is not able to match 
from his hand, he draws one piece from the pool and plays. If 
he is still not able to play, the next plays, or draws, and so on 
alternately. If domino is made, the one who makes it wins the 
hand. If it be blocked, they count and the lowest wins; but if 
the lor est holds a Double in his hand, and his opponent none, 



HOW TO PLAY GAMES. 63S 

the opponent wins. Or if there be two with Doubles, and one 
with none, the last wins. If there be a double in each hand, the 
lowest double wins. If there be more than one Double in any 
one's hand, and all have Doubles, the one with the least num- 
ber of Doubles wins, without reference to the size of the Dou- 
bles he holds. Thus : if a player hold two Doubles, though they 
be the Double-Blank and Double- Ace, and his adversary holds 
but one Double, though it be the Double- Six, the latter wins. 
The game is ten when three or four play, and fifteen when two. 
A hand won by either " domino " or counting, scores one. A dou- 
ble-header, either led or made, counts two. A triple-header 
counts three. But when either party is within two of being out, 
a double-header or a triple-header will count him but one; and 
it he be within three of being out, a triple-header will count him 
but two. A prudent player will retain the Doubles in his hand 
as long as possible, in order to make triple-headers. 

DOMINO ROUNCE. 

This is a pleasant game, and from two to four may participate 
in it. The pieces of rank are Six to Blank, and the Doubles are 
the best of each suit, trump being superior to any other suit. 
The game begins by " turning for trump," and he who turns the 
highest domino is trump-holder for that hand. The dominos are 
then shuffled, and each player takes five pieces, when the player 
at the right of the trump-holder turns the trump, and the end of 
the piece having the greatest number of spots upon it becomes 
trump for that round. The players to the left of the trump-holder 
then announces in regular succession whether they will stand, 
discard their hand and take a dummy, or pass. When two or 
three play there is only one dummy of seven pieces, and the 
eldest hand has the privilege of taking it. When all the players 
pass up to the trump-holder, the last player may elect to give 
the trump-holder a score of five points instead of standiug or 
playing dummy. The trump-holder may, if he chooses, discard 
a weak piece and take in the trump turned, or he may discard 
bis hand and take a dummy, provided there is one left; in which 



6^6 R 0W TO PLAV GAMES. 

case he must abandon the trump turned. The player who takes 
a dummy must discard so as to leave only five pieces in his hand. 
After the first hand, the trump passes to the players at the left in 
succession. The game begins at fifteen, and is counted down 
until the score is "wiped ou*,' ! each trick counting one. The 
player who fails to take a trick with his hand is " Rounced," i. 
e., sent up five points. It is imperative that suit should be followed, 
and if in hand, trump led after a trick as in Loo, but a player 
is not compelled to " head," i. e., take a trick when he cannot 
follow suit. 

DOMIXO EUCHRE. 

This game is usually played by four persons. The pieces 
rank as follows: The Double of the trump suit is the Right 
B >wer, and the next lower Double is the Left Bower. There is, 
however, an exception to this ru'e, for when Blank is the trump 
it being impossible to have a lower Double than the Double- 
Blank, theDjuble-Six is adopted instead, and becomes the Left 
Bower. In this instance the lowest Double is Right Bower, and 
the highest D ouble is Left Bower. After the Right and Left 
Bower the value of the Dominoes is governed by the number of 
spots following the trump. For instance, it Six is trump, the 
Double-Six is Right Bower, and the Double-Five is Left Bower, 
followed by Six-Five, Six-Four, Six-Trey, and so on down to 
Six- Blank. It Ace be the trump, the Double- Ace is Right- Bow- 
er, and the Double-Blank is Left Bower, the Ace- Six is next in 
value, the Ace-Five is next, and so on down to the Ace-Blank 
But when the Blank is trump, the Double Blank is Right-Bower 
and the Double-Six becomes Left Bower, the next trump in im- 
portance being Blank-Six, the next, Blank-Five, and so on down 
to Blank Ace, which is the lowest trump. When a suit is not 
trump, the value of the pieces take rank from the Double 01 the 
suit in regular order, downward. 

At the beginning ot the game the players usually draw to de- 
cide who shall turn up trumps, he who draws the lowest piece 
is entitled to the privilege, and is termed the dealer. When the 



HOW TO PLAY GAMES. 687 

dominoes have again been shuffled, each player draws five pieces, 
beginning with the eldest hand; the dealer then turns up one of 
the remaining pieces for trump. That portion of the domino 
which has the highest number of spots upon it determines the 
suit of the trump. Thus, if Six- Ace be the piece turned, then 
Six is trump suit. After the first hand the privilege of turning 
trump passes to each player in succession. The eldest hand 
does not have the lead unless he exercises the privilege of order- 
ing up, or making the trump. Only the player who takes the 
responsibility of the trump, that is, the player who takes up, 
orders up, assists, or makes the trump, has the right to lead. 
With this exception, Domino Euchre is like the card game of the 
same name. 

DOMINO TOKER. 
In this game only twenty pieces are employed, the Double- Ace 
and all the Blanks being discarded. The hands rank in regular 
order, from one pair up to the Royal Hand, which is the highest 
hand that can be held, as follows: 

One Pair. — Any two Doubles; Double-Six and Double- Deuce 
will beat Double- Five and Double- Four. 

Flush. — Any five of a suit not in consecutive order; as Six- 
Ace, Six-Trey, Six-Four, Six-Five and Double Six. 

Triplets, or Threes.— Any three Doubles. The Double-Ace 
and Double-Blank being discarded, it follows that only one 
hand of triplets can be out in the same deal. 

Straight Four. — A sequence, or rotation of Fours; as Four-Six; 
Four-Five, Double-Four, Four-Trey, and Four-Deuce, 

Full Hand. — Three Doubles, and two of any suit; as Double- 
Six, Double-Trey and Double Deuce, together with Deuce-Four 
and Deuce- Ace. 

Straight Five. — A sequence, or rotation of Fives. 

Fours. —Kxvj four Doubles. 

Straight Six. — A sequence, or rotation of Sixes. 

Royal Hand, or Invincible.— -Five Doubles. 

"When none of the above hands are out, the best is determined 



688 HOW TO PLAY GAMES. 

by the rank of the highest leading pieces; thur, a hand led by 
Double Six is superior to a hand led by Doubie Five, but a hand 
headed by Double-Deuce will beat Six Five, and Six Five will 
°utrank Five- Four. 

Domino Poker is governed by the same laws as the card game 
called Straight Poker, and is played in precisely the same man- 
ner; one game being played with cards and the other with domi ■ 
noes. The hands consequently rank differently, but in every 
other particular they are identical. 

BINGO. 

This game is played as similarly to the card game of Sixty-Six 
as the difference between dominoes and cards will permit. The 
rank of pieces is the same as in other domino games, except that 
Blanks count as seven spots. The Double-Blank, which is 
called Bingo, and counts for fourteen spots, is the highest Pomi- 
no, and will take the Double of trumps. 

The game is played by two persons, and is commenced by each 
drawing for the lead, and he who draws the lowest piece has the 
lead. Each player then draws seven pieces, after which the 
eldest hand turns up another piece, the highest spot on which is 
trumps. The eldest hand then leads, and the play is conducted 
in the same manner as Sixty- Six at cards. 

The game consists of seven points, which are made in the 
following manner : The player who first counts seventy, scores 
one point towards game; if he makes seventy before his oppo- 
nent has counted thirty, he scores two points; if before his adver- 
sary has won a trick, three points. If Bingo capture the Double 
of trumps, it adds at once one point to the winner of the trick. 

The pieces count as follows to the winner of the trick con- 
taining them : the Double of trumps always twenty-eight; the 
other Doubles and all the other trumps according to their spots; 
the Six- Four and Three-Blank are always good for ten each, 
whether trumps or not ; the other pieces have no value. 

If a player have, at any time, two Doubles in his hand, he 
Can, when it is his turn to lead, play one, show the other, and 



HOW TO PLAY GAMES. 689 

announce twenty points, which are added to his count as soon 
as he has won a trick. If he holds three Doubles, he counts 
forty ; for four Doubles, fifty ; for five Doubles, sixty ; for six 
Doubles, seventy points. If Bingo be among the Doubles held, 
it adds ten more to the count. 



MATADOR. 

This differs from all other games of Dominoes, in this great 
point, that each player, instead of matching the pieces, muse 
make up the complement of seven. For instance, a Five re- 
quires a Two to be played to it, because two added to five make 
seven. On a Six, an Ace must be playedj on a Four, a Three, 
spot, and vice versa. 

It will be seen that there is no piece capable of making a 
Seven of a Blank; to obviate this difficulty there are four Mata- 
dors, the Double-Blank, and three natural Seven-spots, namely- 
Six-Ace, Five-Two and Four Three. These four Matadors can 
be played anywhere, at any time, and are, of course, the only 
ones which can be played on a Blank. 

Each player, at the commencement, draws three pieces ; the 
one who has the highest Doublet commences; or, if neither 
have a Doublet, then the highest piece. 

We will suppose Double Four to have been led, the player, 
whose turn it is next, must play a Three to it ; or failing to have 
a Three in his hand, must draw till he gets one. Supposing it 
to be a Three Five, the end spots will be a Four and a Five — 
the next player must then either play a Three on the Four, or a 
Two on the Five, and so on. 

This game may be played by two, three, or four persons. 
When two play, there must be three pieces left undrawn, to 
prevent each from knowing exactly his opponents hand. When 
more than two engage in the game, all the Dominos may 



690 HOW TO PLAY GAMES. 

be drawn. The player who makes domino first, connts the 
spots on the other hand, or hands, and scores them toward 
game, which is one hundred or more, as agreed on before com- 
mencing the game. 

If domino be not made before the drawing is ended, and a 
player cannot play in his turn, he must pass and await his next 
turn to play, but he must play if he can ; the failure to do so 
deprives him of any caunt he may make with that hand. 

In playing, a Doublet counts only as a single piece; for 
instance, Double- Six is a Six, and can only be played on an Ace- 
spot, or on Double- Ace; but if kit in hand after domino is 
called, it counts twelve points to the winner. 

If the game be blocked, and neither player can make dom- 
ino, then the one whose hand contains the least number of spots 
wins, but his own hand does not count to his score. 

The Blanks are very valuable at this game — the Double- 
Blank being the most valuable of all the Matadors. As it is 
impossible to make a Seven against a Blank, so that if you hold 
Blanks you may easily block the game and count. 

When you have the worst of the game, and indeed, at other 
times as well, guard against your adversary's Blanks, and prevent 
him from making them ; which you may do by playiDg only 
those dominos which fit with the Blanks already down. 

Never play a Blank at the lead unless you have a Matador or 
a corresponding Blank. 

Keep back your Double-Blank till your opponent makes it 
Blanks all ; you can then force him to play a Matador, or compel 
him to draw till he obtains one. It is better to have a mixed 
hand. 

TIDDLE-A WINK. 
This is a very amusing game, and suitable for a round party. 
If six or more play, each takes three dominos. The Double- 
Six is then called for, and the person holding it leads with it. 



HOW TO PLAY GAMES. 691 

If it is not out the next highest double is called forth, and so 
Son downwards until a start is made. 

In this game, he who plays a Double, either at the lead or at 
any other part of the game, is entitled to play again if he can — 
thus obtaining two turns instead of one. The game then pro- 
ceeds in the ordinary way, and he who plays out first cries 
Tiddle-a-wink, having won. In the event of the game being 
blocked, he who holds the lowest number of pips wins. 



692 Dice. 

DICE, 

Dice are small cubes of ivory or bone, marked on each of 
their sides by spots, representing oue, two, etc., up to six — 
and armnged in a similar manner to the corresponding spots 
on dominoes. The sum of the spots on the opposite sides of 
a die is always seven. Thus Six, Five, and Four are opposite 
Ace, Two, and Three respectively. 

A Dice-box is a cylindrical case, generally about four inches 
high, and one and a half or two inches in diameter, open at 
the top, and usually grooved inside, to insure the thorough 
shaking of the Dice. In all Dice games, unless any different 
arrangements be previously made, the highest throw wins. 
Dice games are generally played with three Dice. Vingt-un, 
however, requires one Dice only ; and Draw- Poker is played 
with five Dice, there being five cards in a hand in the card 
game of the same name. Backgammon, although played 
with the aid of two Dice, can hardly be considered a Dice 
game. The most simple game is that of 

THROWING DICE. 

Each player throws the three Dice, three times, and the 
sum of the spots, which are uppermost at each throw, are 
added together and placed to the score of that player. Ties 
throw over again, if it be necessary to establish any result. 

For instance: A is throwing Dice; at the first throw he 
makes Ace, Four and Six, which added together count eleven. 
His second throw is Five, Two and Three, together ten. 
Third throw two Fives and a Four, making fourteen — the 
sum of eleven, ten and fourteen, which is thirty-five, is 
counted to his score. And so with any number of players — 
the one who scores the highest winning the game. 

"When articles are Raffled, i. e., put up at lottery, the future 
possession of them being decided by the use of Dice, the 
method usually adopted is that of Throwing Dice, and not 
Raffles, as the term used would seem to imply. 



Dice. 693 

RAFFLES. 

Three Dice are used, which are thrown by each player 
until he succeeds in throwing two alike ; the first throw made 
containing a pair, counts the number of spots to the thrower's 
score. Triplets, or three alike, take precedence of pairs, so 
that three Aces (the lowest triplet) will beat two Sixes and 
a Five. 

This is sometimes, by previous arrangement, played dif- 
ferently, triplets counting only as pairs — thus three Fives 
would be reckoned as fifteen points, and would be beaten by 
two Fives and a Six. 

DRAW POKER. 

Is played with five Dice ; each player having one throw, with 
the privilege of a second throw if he desire it. In the first 
throw all the five Dice must be thrown — the player can leave 
all, or as many as he pleases, on the table, then gather up 
such as do n t satisfy him, and throw them again, it being 
understood that a player can throw twice if he pleases, but is 
not obliged to throw more than once if he be content with the 
result of the first throw. 

The throws rank in the same manner as in the card game, 
beginning with the lowest ; one pair, two pairs, triplets, a full 
hand, four of the same. The highest throw is five alike, 
ranking in the order of their denomination, from six down to 
one; so that five Sixes make an invincible hand; this, of 
course, can only occur in the Dice game, while a flush occurs 
only in the card game. 

It should be understood that Six is the highest and Ace the 
lowest, the intermediate numbers ranking accordingly. 

Suppose A is throwing at Draw Poker, and the first throw 
consist of 5, 3, 6, 2 and 5. He will naturally leave the two 
5's on the table, and throw again with the three remaining 
Dice — if this second throw is a lucky one, he may throw a 
a pair of Two's and a Five — this will give him a full hand 
of Fives. 



694 Dice. 

MULTIPLICATION. 

This is played with three Dice, and three throws, as fol- 
lows : the first throw is with three Dice ; the highest one is 
left on the table, and the other two taken up and thrown 
again ; the higher one is left, and the lower one is taken up 
and thrown again. The spots on the two left on the table are 
added together, and the sum multiplied by the spots on the 
third, or last die thrown ; and this total placed to the score of 
the thrower. 

Thus, we will suppose the player to throw as follows : 

First throw, say Three, Two, and Five ; the Five will be left 
on the table, and the Three and Two returned 
into the Dice-box for the 

Second throw, say Four and Six ; the Six will remain on the 
table, and the Four replaced in the Dice-box. 

Third throw, say Three ; 

This will count 33 ; thus, the sum of Five and Six, the Dice 
remaining on the table after the first and second throws, is 
eleven ; this sum multiplied by three, the result of the third 
throw, makes 33. 

ROUND THE SPOT. 

This is played with three Dice, which are thrown three 
times — the sum of the spot being thus reckoned — those spots 
only count which lay around a central spot, viz., the Three 
and Five — the Three spot counting for two, and the Five spot 
for Four — thus it will be seen that Six, Four, Two, and Ace 
do not count at all ; and therefore a player may throw three 
times and count nothing. 

GOING TO BOSTON. 

This is also played with three Dice, which are thrown pre- 
cisely as in Multiplication. The difference is in the counting: 
the result of the last throw being added to, instead of serving 
for a multiplier of, the sum of the two remaining on the table. 
Thus, making use of the example of the last game, the thrower 
would count 14, the sum of 5, 6, and 3. 



Dice. 695 

HELP YOUK NEIGHBOR. 

This arousing game is played with three Dice, and may be 
played by six persons as follows : 

The players throw in regular rotation. The first player, or 
number one, throws 2, 4, 6, and as he has not thrown one, 
the number corresponding to his own, he scores nothing ; but 
6 being the highest number thrown, number six scores 6 
points. 

The second player now throws, and he throws 2, 3, 5 ; he 
therefore counts two, and helps his neighbor five to 5 points. 

The third player throws, and he throws Fours, so he gets 
nothing, while his neighbor number four, scores 4 points; the 
raffles counting 4 instead of 12. 

Number four now plays, and throws 1, 3, 3, making nothing 
for himself, but 3 for number three, or the third player. 

Number five being the next player, throws three Fives, 
which count him 5 points. 

Number six throws three Aces, which counts him nothing, 
but enables number one to score 1 point 

In this way the game proceeds until some one of the players 
wins the game, by making the number of points p/eviously 
agreed upon. When the game is played for a pool made up 
by the joint contributions of the players, the first man out 
wins ; but if for refreshments, the last player out loses. 

SWEAT OR CHUCKER LUCK 

This game is extensively played on our Western rivers, upon 
race-fields, and at all large gatherings of men. The percent- 
age of the game, when fairly played, is very strong, but the 
low gamblers who generally play it, add to its strength by 
skillful cheating. It is played with Dice upon a cloth num- 
bered thus : 



6 



696 Shuffle Board. 

The money bet is deposited upon these numbers, according 
to the choice or fancy of the player. The bets being made, 
the "dicer" puts three Dice into a cup, shakes them up, and 
throws them upon the table ; the numbers thrown win for the 
player, while the bank takes all the money not upon the for- 
tunate numbers. 

For example : if a bet be placed upon the 6, and one Six is 
thrown, the amount bet is paid — if two Sixes have been 
thrown, the bet is paid double, and triple if three Sixes have 
been thrown. 

This constitutes the well-known game of "Sweat" over 
which many an unlucky player has sweat " more than the law 
allows." 

VINGT-UN 

Is played with a single die, each player throwing it as many 
times as is necessary to get the sum of the spots equal to or 
as near as possible, but not over, twenty-one. Throwing 
twenty-two or more bursts the player, depriving him of further 
participation in the game for that round. The thrower of 
twenty-one, or failing that, the nearest to it wins the game; 
but where a forfeit is played for, the player who fails the most 
in approaching to twenty-one, loses the game. We will sup- 
pose B playing at Vingt-un, and throws as follows, viz. : Six, 
Four, Ace and Five ; he has now sixteen, and should his next 
three throws be a Five, he will be just twenty-one, but if his 
last throw, instead of Five, had been Six, it would have burst 
him, as he would be twenty-two. 



SHUFFLE-BOARD. 



This is an old Scotch game, and has also been long in use 
in some parts of Germany, but it is only occasionally to be 
found in this country. It bears some resemblance to the game 
of bowls, only that instead of balls, flat weights, are slid down 



Shuffle Board. 697 

a board previously sprinkled with tine, dry sand. The board 
should be thirty feet long, and twenty inches wide, adjusted 
to a perfect level, and constructed of a material sufficiently 
strong to prevent warping. All round the outer edges of the 
board there is a gutter similar to, and serving the same pur- 
pose, as the gutter of a Ten-Pin alley. Five inches from each 
end a line is drawn across and parallel with the ends of the 
board. The weights, or " pieces," are eight in number, divided 
into two sets of four each, the pieces of each set having a 
distinctive mark ; they are flat, and should weigh about a 
pound each. 

The game is played by four persons, two on each side — e< ch 
player having two '' pieces." One of each side being at each 
end of the board. The object of the game is to score twenty- 
one points, which are made as follows: each piece which lays 
over, or inside of, the line, at the end of a round is said to be 
"in," and scores two points for the party to whom it belongs. 

Each piece partly projecting over the end of the board at 
the end of a round, scores three points. 

When, at the end of a round, no piece is " in," then that 
piece which lays nearest to the line counts one point. 

A piece lying exactly on the line is considered "in." 

Pieces score only as they remain at the end of each round. 

Supposing A and B are playing at shuffle-board against O 
and D ; then A and C will occupy one ei.d of the board, and 
B and D the other end. A commences and "shuffles" one of 
his pieces, endeavoring to get it "in f C follows with one of 
his, and tries either to shuffle his own "in" or drive A's off 
the board. A then shuffles his remaining pieces, and is fol- 
lowed by C, and the result is scored to either party, as the 
case may be. 

B and D next play in a similar manner from the other end. 
There are always, therefore, at each end of the board, one of 
each party to note his partner's and opponent's play, and the 
party or side that first scores game, wins. 

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